teaspoonful of sugar, three of cream, or a few small pieces of butter;
put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan; when quite hot, pour in
the eggs and proceed as for Omelettes of Herbs, turn over on your dish,
sift some powdered sugar over, salamander, and serve.
721. _Omelettes of Preserved Fruits_, viz. Currant Jelly, Raspberry and
Strawberry Jam, Apricots, Peaches, Cherries, &c., are made the same as
the last, but, just before turning on your dish, put two spoonfuls of
preserves in the centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve.
722. _Macedoine of Omelettes._--Instead of making one with eight eggs,
make four, with two eggs each, of different kinds of preserves; serve on
the same dish, sugar over, &c., as before.
723. _Omelette with Rum._--The same as sweet omelette, but, the moment
of going to table, pour two glasses of rum round, and set it on the
fire.
724. _Beignet Soufflé._--Put in a stewpan a pint of milk or water, a
teaspoonful of sugar, two ounces of butter, a few drops of essence of
vanilla, or any flavor you please; give it a boil, throw in some flour,
keep stirring all the time until it becomes quite thick and no longer
tastes of the flour and detaches itself from the pan. It will take about
half an hour, as the better it is done the lighter it is; withdraw it
from the fire, stir in six eggs, one at a time, sift about two ounces of
sugar, until the paste is of the stiffness of puff paste; have ready a
pan of hot fat, into which you drop by a spoon small pieces of paste, it
will increase their size; and when a nice color, take them out, drain,
and dish on a napkin, with sifted sugar over.
725. _Apple Fritters._--Mix one pound of flour with half a pint of milk
or water, then half a pound of butter melted in a stewpan, mix well
together with a wooden spoon very smooth, thin it a little with
table-beer or water, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, stir in
gently; have six apples, peeled, cut in slices about a quarter of an
inch thick, the cores taken out with a cutter, dip each piece in the
batter, and fry in hot lard about six minutes; to fry well, the fat
should not be too hot at first, but get hotter as it proceeds; they
should be crisp, and of a nice golden color; serve on a napkin, and sift
sugar over.
726. _Ditto, Peaches._--Skim and cut in halves six ripe but fine
peaches, take out the stones, have a batter prepared as the last, dip
them in, fry, and serve the same.
727. _Ditto, Apricots._--Cut in halves, and proceed as above, and sugar
over until quite brown.
728. _Ditto, Oranges._--Peel four oranges, divide them in quarters by
the thin skin, without cutting the flesh, and proceed as before.
Any other fruit may be done in the same way, and can, if required, be
soaked in wine or brandy previously, but they do not fry so well.
729. _Pancake with Marmalade._--Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour
into a basin, with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add
half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of
butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot
put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan,
place it upon the fire, and when colored upon one side turn it over,
then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then
spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay
them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the
salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the
marmalade, being then the common pancake.
730. _Apple Charlotte with Butter._--For the few following receipts, the
russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable,
not being so watery, or falling in purée, but in case they cannot be
obtained, other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced
in stewing.
Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces
of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified
butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut
also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter,
and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole
with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould, and the
thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide
and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter,
which stand upright, one half-way over the other, all round the interior
of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples,
which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round stew or
preserving-pan, with three ounces of butter and half a pound of broken
lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of
sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but
keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould
(having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place
another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the
apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well
browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls
of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over
the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and
salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve. You may also, for a
change, introduce a little sweetmeat of any kind in the middle of your
charlotte, and use plain pieces of bread a quarter of an inch thick,
instead of so many pieces for the sides.
731. _Apples with Rice._--Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put
them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the
thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful
of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the
back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a
stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until
boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until
quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry
before it is tender add a little more milk; then add a quarter of a
pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them
well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick; when put it
upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight
inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where
dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a
pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples,
which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica,
forming any design your fancy may dictate. Apples with rice may be
served hot as well as cold.
732. _Pears with Rice._--Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe
pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a
pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons, stew them
till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three
tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice
prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high,
dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre
dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the
syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.
733. _Apples with Butter._--Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in
quarters, and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small
preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound
of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and
pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite
tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it,
pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the
mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold
it is ready to serve.
734. _Apple Bread, Russian fashion._--Put one pound and a half of lump
sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper
preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to a crack,
have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into
slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite
a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould,
previously slightly oiled, shake it well down, and let it remain until
quite cold; then turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few
spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add
two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold, pour over and serve
with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter
of an ounce of candied orange-flowers; if any remain, it will be
excellent to make croquettes.
735. _Apples sauté in Butter._--Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut
into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the
cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan,
spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of
powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate
fire; when done, dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt
three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a
glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.
736. _Croquettes of Rice._--Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina
rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a
quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until
boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan, and let
simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a
lump of sugar, weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite
fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of five eggs (mix well), stir
them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do
not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of
small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy;
have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in
singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a
knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a
wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light
yellow color, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin,
and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them.
737. _Croquettes of Macaroni._--Blanch six ounces of macaroni in two
quarts of water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold
water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it
into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which
you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add
a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the
yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs
thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the
croquettes of rice.
738. _Pastry Cream sautéd._--Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan,
with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a
wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by
degrees, and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens,
add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed
ratafias, a little orange-flower water, and three whole eggs, mix the
whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire
until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sauté-pan, previously oiled,
and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half
long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for
croquettes, sauté them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high
as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavored also with
vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy.
JELLIES.
Nothing, I am confident, will give you more pleasure than trying
the receipts which I am now about giving you; they are for jellies,
that is, those made from gelatinous substances of animal
production. They are the most wholesome productions of cookery, and
are slightly nourishing and fortifying without being exciting. You
will find the receipts as simple as possible; and you will perceive
that, when you have made the foundation stock to perfection, they
may be varied in twenty or more different ways, by changing the
flavor, fruits, or colors.
739. _Jelly Stock_, made from calf's feet, requires to be made the day
previous to being used. Take two calf's feet, cut them up, and boil in
three quarts of water; as soon as it boils remove it to the corner of
the fire, and simmer for five hours, keeping it skimmed, pass through a
hair sieve into a basin, and let it remain until quite hard, then remove
the oil and fat, and wipe the top dry. Place in a stewpan one gill of
water, one of sherry, half a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four
lemons, the rinds of two, and the whites and shells of five eggs, whisk
until the sugar is melted, then add the jelly, place it on the fire, and
whisk until boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pouring that back
again which comes through first until quite clear; it is then ready for
use, by putting it in moulds or glasses.
740. _Gelatine and Isinglass Jelly_ is made as above, using one ounce
and a half of either, and boil in one quart of water, reduce to half; if
not required very clear, as for lemon jelly, it need not be run through
a bag, but merely through a fine sieve.
741. _Hartshorn Jelly._--Use half a pound of hartshorn shavings, boil in
three quarts of water, and reduce to one; proceed as before. Also
Arney's jelly powder can be used instead of any of the above, by
dissolving in boiling water.
742. _Gold or Silver Jelly_, or both mixed, is made with eau de vie de
Dantzic, mixing the gold or silver leaves with a little jelly,
ornamenting the bottom of the mould with it, which place in ice till
set, fill with very clear calf's foot jelly. It can also be made by
cutting up a quarter of a sheet of gold leaf in a glass of pale brandy,
and use as the former.
743. _Maresquino Jelly_ is made by mixing six liqueur-glasses of
maresquino with a quart of clarified calf's foot jelly; peaches or other
fruits cut in quarters may be added.
744. _Rum-Punch, Curaçoa, Noyeau_, are made with the same quantity, and
as the former.
745. _French Jellies_ may be made with all kinds of fresh fruits,
filling the mould by degrees, the jelly first, let it set, then the
fruit, and so on till full, the mould being buried in ice; when ready to
serve dip in hot water, mix it well, and turn out carefully on your
dish. In the winter, preserved fruits in syrup may be used, decorating
the mould with them, pouring in a little jelly at a time until it is
cold, and fill up by degrees; proceed as above.
746. _Orange Jelly._--Procure five oranges and one lemon, take the rind
off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and remove the pith, put
them into a basin, and squeeze the juice of the fruit into it; then put
a quarter of a pound of sugar into a stewpan, with half a pint of water,
and set it to boil until it becomes a thick syrup, when take it off, and
add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan, and place it
again on the fire; as soon as boiling commences skim well, and add one
glass of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let it
boil another minute, when add half an ounce of good isinglass, dissolved
as directed (No. 740), pass it through a jelly-bag, add a few drops of
prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then fill a mould and
place it on ice; turn out as before.
747. _Lemon Jelly_ is made the same way, only using six lemons and the
rind of one; serve quite white, and add a gill of Bucellas, or any very
pale wine.
Calf's foot stock, reduced and clarified, may be used instead of the
isinglass.
748. _Whipped Jellies_ are made from any of the above by placing some
warm jelly in a large bowl or basin on ice, and when nearly cold
whisking it; pour quickly in a mould set on ice and salt, where let
remain till ready for serving; dip it in lukewarm water, strike gently,
taking it in the right hand, place the left on it, turn it over, if it
shakes in the mould, let it gradually slip off your hand on the dish,
and remove the mould. All jellies are removed the same way.
749. _Bohemian Jelly Creams_ may be made of any flavor as jellies, and
either ripe fruit or with marmalade or jam, to which add the juice of
two lemons, a pint of water, in which one ounce and a half of isinglass
has been dissolved, or a pint of reduced clarified calf's foot jelly,
stir together in a bowl placed on ice; when nearly cold, stir quickly in
three parts of a pint of whipped cream, fill the mould, which should be
kept on ice, and turn out as before. A small bottle of Crosse and
Blackwell's jelly may be used instead of the isinglass or jelly, by
uncorking and placing the bottle in a stewpan of hot water till
dissolved, or pour it in a clean stewpan, and reduce it one third.
Cherries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries must be
passed through a sieve; but apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces,
pineapples, and marmalade may be used as they are. Creams may be made of
any flavor, and of either ripe fruits, jams, or marmalade; they are made
plain, thus: put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of
sugar, beat it up with a spoon until white; in another stewpan have a
pint of milk and one ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stir
continually to prevent burning, flavor with vanilla or anything to your
taste, pour the milk on the eggs and sugar, put on the fire, stir well
together, do not let it boil, pass through a tammy into a round bowl;
when cold, set on ice, add two or three glasses of liqueur, keep
stirring its contents, and when setting, add three parts of a pint of
cream well whipped, mix well together, and pour into your mould in the
ice, and keep there till required; turn out as before.
750. _Charlotte Russe._--Line the inside of a plain round mould with
Savoy biscuits, cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a
rosette, standing them upright and close together, fill with any of the
above creams, omitting the fruits, place the mould in ice, let it remain
till ready to serve, turn over on a dish, and remove the mould.
751. _Strawberry Charlotte._--Line a plain round mould with ripe
strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the
strawberries in calf's foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them
cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the
sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to
adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the
charlotte russe, and when ready to serve dip the mould in warm water,
and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when
you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a
bad effect.
752. _Chartreuse Cake of variegated Fruits._--Line a charlotte mould
very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries,
strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, &c.) by dipping them into
jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them
in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice,
when well set, terminate as in the last.
753. _Blancmange._--To one quart of milk add one ounce of isinglass, a
quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, a little
grated nutmeg, half of the peel of a lemon, and a bay-leaf, simmer over
a slow fire, stirring till the isinglass is dissolved, pass it through a
napkin into a basin, and pour into a mould. This can be made any color
or flavor that will not curdle the milk; the milk of bitter almonds may
be added to flavor it.
754. _Another._--Put into a bowl about a pint of clear calf's-foot jelly
warm, break six eggs, beat the yolks and pour them gradually into the
jelly, beating all the time; put on the fire and whisk till nearly
boiling, set it on ice or in cold water, keep stirring till nearly cold,
and fill your mould. You may add whatever flavor you like.
755. _Trifles_ should be made early in the day on which they are wanted;
take a stale Savoy cake, cut it in slices of one inch thick, and lay it
on the bottom of the dish; lay on that a thin layer of any kind of
marmalade, jam, or jelly, have some macaroons and ratafia cakes and lay
on, and cover the whole with some sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches
in diameter, mix two glasses of sherry, one of brandy, half a one of
rum, and the same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it remain until it
is well soaked, then pour over about one inch thick of rich custard;
put a pint of cream into a bowl, with some sifted sugar, a squeeze of a
lemon, and about a tablespoonful of the wine, &c., you have put on the
cake, whisk it well up. I use a trifle-blower, which saves some trouble;
I also use it for all whipped cream; and as the froth rises remove it
with a spoon on to a clean sieve, where let it drain, then place it on
the custard until it is high and handsome.
I have occasionally, when being in a hurry, and having no cream by me,
proceeded as above, and made the whip with the whites of eggs, and some
very white peach or egg-plum marmalade together, until it makes firm
froth or whip, which put on the custard; this may also be colored a nice
pink.
Trifles are generally considered unwholesome; I think it is because they
are often made too long before they are wanted, and no spirit is used in
the cake, the consequence is, the cream turns sour.
The remains of this make an excellent pudding.
PUDDINGS IN MOULDS.
We have already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the
most simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings,
as the principal ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or
ladies' fingers, and, if I cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread;
they may be made in a hundred different ways, according to the
fancy and taste of the cook; the mould should be buttered and
papered; they may be either baked or steamed.
There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but
loves this truly English mixture, which appears upon our tables in
a hundred different shapes, but always under the same name; and I
should not fancy my labors complete if I did not produce a new one
of my own invention; I therefore beg you to accept of the
dedication, as I intend to call it--
756. _Pudding à la Eloise._--It is made as follows: take half a pound of
bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with two ounces of sago, six ounces
of chopped suet, six eggs, five ounces of moist sugar, and a
tablespoonful of either orange, lemon, or apricot marmalade; mix all
well together, and ornament the bottom of the mould with green angelica
in syrup, and Smyrna raisins, and fill up with the mixture. Place the
mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould, and
boil gently for two hours; remove it from the mould, and serve with a
sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marmalades, or of currant
or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry poured over. This, I assure
you, received great praise from the little party of juveniles that I had
the other day.
757. _Pudding à la Reine._--Butter and paper the mould, fill up with
cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some custard in until it will hold
no more; this may be flavored with any white liquor or essence you
please, for instance, citron (then it is called Pudding à la Reine au
Citron), or orange; use peel thinly sliced, and so on for any flavor you
may give it.
758. _Mince-meat Pudding._--Butter and paper the mould, then put a layer
of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately, till full, then add the
custard.
759. _Demi-Plum Pudding._--Prepare the mould, then add a layer of plum
pudding, broken in pieces, that has been left from the previous day,
alternately, till full, fill up with custard, and steam or bake for
three minutes. The remains of any kind of pudding may be used thus.
760. _Trifle Pudding._--Prepare the mould, and fill with the same
ingredients as directed for trifle, taking care that the wine, &c., is
well soaked in before adding the custard. Steam or bake thirty minutes.
The sides and tops of these puddings may be ornamented with cut
angelica, hops, or candied orange or lemon-peel, in any fanciful design
you please, and they may be served with any kind of wine sauce.