JOURNEY FROM TRIPOLI TO MORZOUK.
Preparations for their departure, in company with Mohammed el Mukni
— Encampment in the Mountains of Terhoona, and at the Wells of
Melghra — Arrival at Benioleed — Interview with the Wife of the
Sheikh, of the Kafflé — Their Christian Friends return to Tripoli
— Punishment of an Arab for Theft — Journey over the Desert —
Remains of a Roman Castle — Continuation of the Journey, until
their Arrival at Sockna — Entry into that City — Description
of it — Manner of raising the Tribute Money — Accompany the
Sultan’s Son to Hoon and Wadan, to receive the Taxes — Account
of those Places — Return to Sockna — Leave Sockna — Singular
Custom imposed on Travellers in passing the Soudah Mountains —
Arrival at Nufdai — Clear the Soudah Mountains — And travel
over the gravelly Plain, through the Pass of Kenair, to the Well
of Om el Abeed — Visit the Towns of Zeighan and Samnoo, famed
for their Marāboots — Encamp at Temenhint — Arrival at Sebha,
where the Black Population commences — Pass on to Ghroodwa —
Entry to Morzouk, the Capital of Fezzan.
On the 22d March, 1819, after repeated delays, every thing being
at length in readiness for our departure, the camels, twenty-two
in number, arrived, and carried our goods to the Desert beyond
the Meshea, where Mr. Ritchie preferring to remain in the town,
Belford, and myself, pitched our tent, in order to keep watch over
the goods. Our Kafflé increased much this day; many Negroes, who
had obtained their freedom, and were returning to their native
countries, fixed their little triangles of sticks, and a mat or
carpet, close to us, whilst I amused myself in marking our goods,
so that each camel-man might be enabled to know his own charge,
and thus avoid mistakes or confusion.
23d March.—I went back into the town, and found that Mukni was
not to join us until the morrow; by which delay, we obtained time
to furnish ourselves with many necessaries, which we had before
forgotten to provide.
24th March.—Mukni did not arrive this day; but his two Negresses
and household slaves came out and pitched their tents. These
women were mounted on camels, in a kind of litter, called Shiblia
شبليه which is a light frame of wood, covered with scarlet
cloth, so arranged, as to prevent the person in the inside from
being seen. One of them had been twice to the Niger with Mukni,
and was named Zaitoon زيتون or olive tree; the other was
the mother of his youngest child, and was called Zeman Donya,
زمان دونيه time of the world. All was confusion this
day; and the varied heaps of goods, camels, saddles, and animals,
which were scattered about, presented a very lively scene. As I
sat in our tent, writing a letter, some Arabs came in, and seemed
to find much amusement in seeing me write from left to right;
but, when I told them my letter was addressed to a Female, their
astonishment knew no bounds; and they laughed heartily at the idea,
that it was possible for a woman to be capable of reading. Colonel
Warrington’s eldest son came to spend the evening with us.
March 25th.—I went into the town, and took leave of all my
Christian friends. At eight A.M. the kafflé, consisting of
about two hundred men, and the same number of camels, set off. We
followed them, and pitched our tents, to rest for the night, on the
desert, near a well and a few palm trees. After dark, Mr. Ritchie,
accompanied by our friends, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen,
arrived. We amused ourselves in visiting little parties of the
liberated Blacks, who were all joyful at the idea of returning once
more to their native land; though their means of support were very
slender, and many of them, with their young children, had to walk
a distance of above two thousand miles, before they could reach
their own country.
March 26th.—At 8 A.M. we again moved on over a sandy, irregular
desert, all in high spirits at having commenced our journey,
after so many and apparently unnecessary delays. Having travelled
south-east twelve miles, we encamped near a very deep well, which
I have before mentioned, where we were to wait for Mukni. Our
kind friend, Dr. Dickson, here left us, the Bashaw requiring his
attendance at the Castle. After dark we observed several flashes
of muskets, which were fired by Mukni’s attendants, in order to
discover the position of the Kafflé; we fired others in return,
and soon heard the shrill pipes of the musicians announcing his
approach. A beautiful scene now presented itself when he entered
the camp, attended by about fifty horsemen, dressed in their gayest
apparel, preceded by wild music, and three stand of silk colours. As
we had coffee prepared for ourselves, Mukni, who was very fond of
it, visited us in our tent, and partook of it with his son Yussuf,
a mulatto boy of about eight years of age. They were splendidly
dressed, and had ridden from the town at full speed, the little
boy being a most excellent horseman.
March 27th.—Early in the morning we went on, and discovered that
in the night another Shiblia had joined us, containing a very fat
and beautiful woman, the wife of Sheikh Barood, who was director
of the Kafflé, and manager of Mukni’s affairs. Our road lay
over a fine country, with corn, many flocks, and a few Arab tents
scattered here and there. In the afternoon, having passed through
several low hills, we arrived at some corn, and encamped near a
well; the Sultan’s people turning their horses amongst the corn,
without any pity or consideration for the poor wretches who owned it.
March 28th.—Entered the mountains of Terhoona, which we passed
through on our return from Benioleed, and encamped, at four P.M. near
the wells of Melghra.
March 29th.—We proceeded this day over a fine country, and through
a Wadey, having wells in it, called Mader, مادر; we filled our
gerbas, and then entered on a rough uncultivated plain, where the
paths were very difficult for our camels.
March 30th.—Having travelled this day also over a stony desert,
we arrived at Benioleed, from which place to Tripoli I have, in a
former part of my journal, given the bearings. Mukni’s horsemen
preceded him to the castle, firing and shouting, as the people of
Tripoli do in honour of the Bashaw.
March 31st.—As this was market day, we remained here in order to
refresh ourselves, pitching our tents very pleasantly and securely
amongst some Olives in the Wadey. Mukni had warned us, on coming
here, to avoid encamping on the low ground, as, during the rains,
it frequently became entirely flooded, and was therefore very
dangerous. He told us of the Wadey being sometimes so completely
covered with water, as to hide the highest olive trees from the
view; the depth must therefore have been at least thirty feet. Many
natives confirmed this account, adding, that men and animals had
often been drowned in the night, before they could have time to
escape; the torrents from the hill sides which form the Wadey,
rushing down with such impetuosity that an hour or two is sufficient
to inundate the whole country. We bought a fine sheep in the market,
and killed it to feast our guests.
A boy who accompanied us from Tripoli came to me, full of the
praises of Lilla Fatma, the fat wife of Sheikh Barood, a white
woman, who, he said, was the most beautiful creature he had ever
seen, and so fat that she could scarcely walk: “her arm (t’barek
Allah, تْبارك اله, God’s blessing on it!) is as big as my
body,” continued he, “and she says she should like to see you and
Sidi Yussuf.” Such a hint was not to be rejected, and I therefore
immediately paid her a visit, the boy acting as my Interpreter. On
my entrance she so veiled herself as to exhibit to advantage
her arm, with all its gay ornaments; and on my requesting to be
favoured with a view of her face, she, with very little reluctance,
gratified me. Her chin, the tip of her nose, and the space between
her eyebrows, were marked with black lines; she was much rouged; her
neck, arms, and legs, were covered with tattooed flowers, open hands,
circles, the names of God, and of her numerous male friends. She
had a multitude of gold ear-rings and ornaments, set with very bad
and counterfeit jewels, and weighing all together, I should think,
two or three pounds. Her shirt was of striped silk; and she had a
rich purple silk barracan, or mantle, gracefully thrown round her,
and fastened at the breast by a gold pin, with ornaments of the same
metal suspended from it: all the other articles of finery which she
possessed were displayed round the tent, whilst a multitude of poor
thin wretches, resembling witches, sat round her in astonishment,
never having in their lives seen such a paragon of perfection. Like
all other Arabs, they touched whatever pleased them most, one
admiring this object, another something near it, so that our poor
belle was sometimes poked by a dozen fingers at once; all, however,
agreeing on one point, that she was beautifully and excessively fat,
and I must say I never before beheld such a monstrous mass of human
flesh. One of her legs, of enormous size, was uncovered as high
as the calf, and every one pressed it, admiring its solidity, and
praising God for blessing them with such a sight. I was received
most graciously, and invited to sit close to her, when one of the
first questions she asked me was, if in my country the ladies were as
fat and handsome as herself? For the plumpness of my countrywomen,
I owned, with shame, that I never had seen one possessed of half
such an admirable rotundity, which she took as a great compliment;
but I did not attempt to carry the comparison farther, though she
was really very handsome in face and features. She amused herself
while speaking with playing on a kind of drum, made of clay, called
Derbooka, دربوكه, by beating with one hand, and playing with
the fingers of the other; and perceiving that I was amused by it,
she ordered an old man to get up and dance. The females sang and
clapped their hands in good time, and the dancer went through a
variety of figures, all equally indelicate. A woman then succeeded
him, and in this respect quite threw him in the shade; but as I
knew it to be the general mode of dancing in this part of Barbary,
I of course applauded it. Lilla Fatma herself then thought proper
to honour us with a few graceful attitudes in the same style;
but Mr. Ritchie’s entrance into the tent soon put a stop to the
exhibition, and the ceremony of veiling took place in the same
manner as before. Fatma soon discovered a likeness between her
late husband and Mr. Ritchie, from their being both very slender;
but unfortunately the resemblance failed in all other points, her
former spouse being, at the time she was obliged to leave him by
an order of the Bashaw, fifty years old, with a grey beard; while,
on the other hand, Mr. Ritchie was but twenty-seven, and of a very
fair complexion. She was at all events determined to be pleased
with us; and having sprinkled us with rose-water, allowed us to
take our leave. On returning to our tent, we sent her some coffee,
and a few lumps of sugar.
We found here much difficulty in obtaining water for our horses,
owing to the great depth of the wells, and the people being employed
in filling the skins for the morrow. In the evening, we visited
Mukni, at the castle; and finding him surrounded by eatables, were
invited to partake of them: but we discovered, that all his people,
whilst it was his pleasure to remain, were fed by the natives,
cost free. We laid in a sufficient stock of barley to supply our
four horses, until we should arrive at Morzouk.
April 2nd.—We took water for three days, on the camels, and
passed along the Wadey, at 7,15, A.M. Our friends here quitted us,
in order to return to Tripoli, and we were now left to ourselves,
amongst a strange people; our hearts were heavy, and we conversed
but little during the remainder of the day. The country, on rising
from the Wadey, was a stony desert until noon, when we passed over
plains capable of cultivation, but having no water.
At 4,50, entered another Wadey, in which we saw a large herd of
Gazelles; and, passing through it until 5,20, we encamped. Made
S.E. by S. thirty miles. The horses were turned out to graze on
a large field of barley, belonging to the Orfilly. This place was
called Gairi, قيري or Sofagie. A mountain, south three miles,
named Glla قله, and a distant range in the same direction,
called Souarit سواريت. Much good herbage. On the camels being
unloaded, we found that an old Bornou black had died on the one
which he rode. A melancholy howling was set up by the women, and the
corpse was carried to a distance, and immediately buried. An Arab,
who was prowling about this evening, stole a gun belonging to one
of the Sultan’s followers; but was detected, and bastinadoed in
a most barbarous manner, by two men on each side, with green date
sticks. After this part of his punishment was ended, a man mounted
a horse, and started at full gallop, leading, or rather dragging
this poor wretch after him. His wrists were tied together behind
him, and the end of the cord which secured them was attached to
the horse’s saddle. Had he fallen when thus dragged along, his
shoulders must inevitably have been dislocated.
April 3rd.—We journeyed all this day over a stony plain, without
the least sign of vegetation, and covered with small stones, of
about the size and form of lumps of sugar; their surfaces appeared
vitrified, and shone very much. In the evening, we got into a
wadey where we found a well, and several talhh trees, so that we
had abundance of fuel. We heard, during the night, repeated cries
of jackals and hyænas. Made this day, S.E. twenty-eight miles.
April 4th.—At seven A.M. went on over a barren plain, having no
water; but were enabled to collect a few bushes for our night’s
cooking. At sunset secured our baggage, and lay in a gravelly
flat. Jackals very noisy. Proceeded S.E. twenty-eight miles.
April 5th.—Barren plain as before. At two P.M. ascended a steep
hill, from which, in every direction, the country appeared quite
desolate;—found a few bushes on the top. On descending, at sunset,
we pitched our tents, having travelled thirty-five miles, S.E.
April 6th.—At six A.M. we started, and passed over the wadeys
Hait حيت, and Zemzem زمزم; each having a few prickly bushes,
on which our camels fed. The latter is of great length, and runs
to the sea, in the Gulf of Syrtis.
At 1,30, having passed a plain, where we found gypsum, and in some
places, cockle-shells, we reached some sand hills to the well of
Bonjem بنجم; the water of which resembles, both in taste and
smell, bilge water from a ship. It lies in a stratum of black clay,
about five feet below the sand. At the distance of half a mile from
the well, is a Roman castle, situated amongst some high sand hills:
it is of an oblong form, having in the centre of each of the walls,
which are towards the cardinal points, a large arched gateway,
between two strong towers. Each of the former, with its flanking
towers, is in a different style of architecture: only one remains
quite perfect; the others have fallen, or are partially buried
in the sand. The stones of which these buildings are composed,
are of the magnitude common to all Roman structures, and are of
a kind of dark granite. In the enclosed space are several immense
stones, standing upright, and so placed as to give the appearance
of having once supported a large building: some are ten feet in
height, independent of the part embedded in the sand. The mouth
of a well is visible, still bearing the marks of the cords used
in drawing the water; it is now entirely choked up with sand. The
walls from east to west, are above two hundred paces in length;
I should rather say, the tops of the walls, for in some places,
they are buried in the sand; and from north to south, about one
hundred and fifty. The Arabs, probably in the time of the Khalifs,
appear to have used the northern towers; as remains of their rude
masonry still surmount the original buildings. Over each gateway
there had been an inscription, of which the northern one is most
perfect. We found, by comparing them, that all were thus worded.
IMP . CAES . L . SEPTIMIO . SEVERO.
PIO . PERTINACI . AVG . TRPOTV . IIII
IMP CSIIPPET IMP . CAES . M
AVRELIO . ANTONINO V RI
IIII . ET SEPTIMIO CAE
AVG . O . ANICIO . FAVSTO . LEG
AVGVSTORVM . CONSVLARI
IPO . III . AVG . PV
Under each had once been a large eagle, carved in basso relievo;
but they are now so mutilated, as to bear very little resemblance
to that bird.
This place is the northern boundary of Fezzan. All slaves of
Mukni’s, going from Fezzan to Tripoli on account of the Bashaw,
belong to the former until Bonjem is past; should any die afterwards,
the Bashaw is the loser. The same risk attends the latter when he
sends horses or goods to Mukni; all losses being made good by him
north of the boundary, and by Mukni south of it. All camels found
straying on the desert are appropriated to the respective kingdoms.
[Illustration:
_Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon._
_On Stone by G. Harley._
THE CASTLE OF BONJEM.
_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._
_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]
Bonjem, according to Mr. Ritchie, is in latitude
30°. 35′. 32″. N. A few Arabs passed us with three camels and
twelve female slaves, from Morzouk. We expected, on leaving Tripoli,
to be much troubled about the established prayers, which should be
repeated by the natives five times a day, though by travellers only
thrice; but our present companions certainly were not very scrupulous
in their religious duties; no one, or at most only two or three of
them, ever praying at all; and, as for Mukni and his followers,
they seemed to give themselves very little trouble about it. The
only devout person amongst them, was one of our camel-men, who
roared out all day, as loud as he was able, verses from the Koran,
and charms against the devil; yet, in spite of all his sanctity,
he was the greatest rascal in the kafflé. This fellow, in speaking
of us, contemptuously called us Romees, or Christians; which coming
to Mukni’s knowledge, he threatened him with a good thrashing,
if he ever again called us any thing but Mamlukes, as the Sultan
himself did.
The people of the kafflé having, by this time, become better
acquainted with us, soon discovered Mr. Ritchie’s medical talents,
and accordingly gave him no little trouble with their real and
fancied complaints. They were all very anxious to be bled, and to
take physic. One or two who were the most troublesome, and who had
only imaginary ailments, were consigned to my management; for these
I prepared, with an air of affected gravity, a mixture of coffee,
salt, vinegar, and red pepper, giving to each a spoonful, with many
serious instructions, how they were to eat, drink, and sleep; and
I found, next morning, to my great satisfaction, that my patients
had spread a report all over the kafflé, of the excellent effects
of my wonderful medicine. During the night we heard a few jackals,
whose tracks absolutely covered the sand hills round the castle.
April 7th.—The camels, which had been out on the plain to feed on
the bushes, were brought in; and having waited till 1.30. P.M. to
rest the people, we loaded, and went on our way. Abd Allah el
Bendag, an old Arab, was despatched to Morzouk on a Maherry, to
announce the approach of the Sultan. Our camels were loaded with
four days’ water; a strong south wind covered us with sand, and
the day was uncommonly sultry. Our road lay over a barren desert
called Klïa, قليه. The surface, where clear of sand, was of
gypsum. At 5 P.M. we passed a remarkable mound of limestone and
sand; which, until a very near approach, resembled a white turret,
and is called Bazeen, برزين. This name is also applied to the
country immediately surrounding it. Our view was bounded on every
side by distant yellow hills, appearing to be perfectly destitute of
every kind of vegetation. At 11.40. P.M. rested for the night in a
sandy wadey, called Boonaja, ابوناجه (or the ewe’s father),
having made twenty-two miles south-south-east. This evening, as we
rode along, the horsemen amused themselves in skirmishing before
Mukni; and the Negroes danced and sang as well as their fatigue
would allow them. The Sultan himself took my gun, and rode among
his people at full speed, firing at their horses’ feet. All this
parade was in consequence of our now being in the kingdom of Fezzan.
April 8th.—At 6 A.M. we left the wadey, and at 7 went through a
pass, called Hormut Emhalla, خرموت المخالّه (or the
pass of the army.) At 9.20. we passed a range of table mountains,
running north-east and south-west, called Elood, الود. The
desert here became stony and very uneven; a range of mountains
to the southward, two or three miles, running east and west, and
forming a crescent to the east of our path: they are called Guatela,
قواتله. The westward was an uneven yellow range, distant five
or six miles. At 10.5. A.M. we passed the west point of Guatela,
our road lying close under the foot of the mountains. At 11 A.M. we
turned to the southward and eastward. At 1.15. P.M. passed a conical
hill standing apart from the neighbouring mountains, and resembling
a tent, called El Khayma, الخيمه. At 5 P.M. entered a pass
called Hormut Tuzzēt, حرموت طزّيت. At 6 cleared the
pass, and opened on a plain; table mountains bearing south-east,
called Matta Imhammed, مته امحمّد. At 6.30. encamped: one
of our camels died this day, and three others were, from fatigue,
unable to come up; indeed all the camels in the Kafflé were much
distressed, not having for several days tasted any kind of food,
and our marches were in general long.
April 9th.—At 6.15. A.M. started over a flat, which had no break
to the view, except very distant mountains. Two hours and a half
from the time of our setting off there is a solitary tree, which
is considered as one day’s journey from water. Slaves, in coming
from this water, are not allowed to drink until they reach the tree
in question, which is one of the longest stages in the journey from
Fezzan. The distant mountains had the appellation of Khod el Khādem,
خدالخادم (or “take the negress.”) The plain was called El
Grarat Arab Hoon, الغرارت عرب حون. At 7 P.M. we entered
a pass called Hormut taad atar, خرموت طعداتر. And after
passing through a winding wadey, closely hemmed in by the mountains,
at 9 we stopped near a well of very brackish, stinking water,
situated in a small plain, which here opens out in a circular
form. Still no fodder for our camels. A man joined us with some
stewed meat for the Sultan, and a load of water, from Sockna;
and we procured a bowl of the latter, which afforded us no small
treat. The well here, in hot seasons, is dry, and even at this
period was very low. The horses, with great avidity, sucked up the
mud which was thrown out of it. Strong sand wind from the southward.
April 10th.—At 6.10. A.M. set off. At 7 cleared the pass, and
proceeded to a small wadey, where, in spite of a strong Siroc,
we succeeded in pitching our tents. The sand, however, flew about
in such quantities, that we were unable to prepare any food, and we
could not even see thirty yards from us. Mukni took shelter with us,
and advised that we should strip to our shirts, as the lightest way
of withstanding the sand showers. Mr. Ritchie here presented him
with one of our tents, it being much superior to his own. In the
afternoon, the wind having a little subsided, we cleared away the
heaps of sand which had collected round our goods, and allowed the
camels to graze on the small bushes until 3 o’clock. We found,
on examining some of our stores, that a large organ had been burst
by the heat, and excessive dryness of the wind; a discovery by no
means welcome to us. At 3.15. P.M. struck our tent, and again made
our way over the plain until 7, when we stopped amongst some palms,
which were thickly planted in a range of sand hills. There were
two wells of tolerably fresh water at this place, which is called
Hammam, حامام. From hence we could easily have made our way
to Sockna; but as the Sultan preferred entering in the morning,
we were content to stop, and get our heads shaved, as well as to
enjoy a good washing, which was very requisite, as we were not
over clean. The Sultan’s people were also employed in preparing
themselves; and a large convoy of drummers, bag-pipers, and others,
joined us in the night, mounted on asses, in order to precede his
majesty to his city of Sockna.
April 11th.—At 7 A.M. proceeded with the Sultan and his escort,
but found we were sadly in the back-ground with respect to outward
appearance. Unfortunately we had not thought it necessary to put on
any of our embroidered clothes, having no idea that so much finery
was to be displayed; and whilst all the slaves of the Sultan sported
their gayest apparel, we were simply habited as Arabs. Mukni was not
well pleased at this omission on our part; for as we had the honour
of riding on each side of him, and were considered as great men,
he wished us to have been as fine and solemn as himself. On coming
in sight of the town, the soldiers commenced firing and racing in
front of the Sultan, and the musicians struck up such a noise as
nearly stunned us. We were shortly joined by another party, who even
outdid the first in sound. A number of dancing women then appeared,
who, in most fantastic dresses, threw themselves into extraordinary
attitudes, crying in their usual shrill manner, and calling down
blessings on the Sultan and his family. The armed people who came
from the town amounted to about six or seven hundred, not including
lookers-on, of at least the same number. The Sultan’s horses,
in golden trappings, and led by well dressed slaves, advanced
in front, under three silk Tripolitan flags, striped red and
yellow horizontally. A curious interruption took place during our
progress, in consequence of a man’s horse requiring to stale,
when the whole procession, following the example of the Sultan,
stopped for him; and we again proceeded with much solemnity. Only
two other stoppages took place during the day; once when a band of
slaves came and prostrated themselves before Mukni, and at another
time when his majesty halted to regale himself with a fresh quid
of tobacco. Amongst many laughable incidents which occurred, an
unfortunate black drummer was tilted with his drum over the head of
the donkey he rode, which ludicrous disaster occasioned much mirth,
and even caused Mukni’s state frown to relax. The town’s people,
on joining us, advanced in a straight line, until within about a
hundred yards, when, firing their muskets, and setting up a loud
yell, they rushed forward, and surrounded the Sultan, to kiss his
hands. After these ceremonies, they divided themselves into small
parties, and expended a great deal of powder in sham fights.
[Illustration:
_Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon._
_On Stone by D. Dighton._
A SAND WIND ON THE DESERT.
_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._
_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]
We arrived at 10 in the town of Sockna, سكنا, and were directed
to the house which had been prepared for us. In the evening our
camels also arrived; and now we arrayed ourselves in our most costly
dresses, and went to pay our respects to the Sultan. We found him
surrounded by some hundred Arabs, all talking at once, and disputing
about money matters, while Mukni appeared to listen to them with
extraordinary patience. We now had become better acquainted with
Arabic, and I profited much by teaching the Sultan’s little son
Yussuf to speak English.
Sockna stands on an immense plain of gravel; bounded to the south
by the Soudah mountains, at about fifteen miles; by the mountains
of Wadan about thirty miles to the eastward; a distant range to the
west; and those I have already mentioned on passing through to the
north. The town is walled, and may contain 2000 persons; more than
half the people we saw this day were from Hoon and Wadan. There are
small projections from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It
has seven gates, only one of which will admit a loaded camel. The
streets are very narrow, and the houses are built of mud and
small stones mixed, many of them having a story above the ground
floor. A small court is open in the centre; and the windows, or
more properly the doors, which open from this area, give the only
light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all
brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the immediate
neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an equal number,
not yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These dates grow in
a belt of sand, at about two or three miles distant from the town,
and are of a quality far superior to any produced in the north of
Africa. Owing to their excellence, they are sold at a very high
price at Tripoli. The adjoining country is entirely destitute of
shrubs, or any kind of food for camels, which are therefore sent to
graze about five miles off; while in the town all animals are fed on
dates. Sheep are brought here from Benioleed, and are, in consequence
of coming from such a distance, very dear. In the gardens, which
are about three miles from the town, barley, maize, and gussob,
قصب, are cultivated, as well as a few onions, turnips, and
peppers. The quantity of flies here is immense, and all the people
carry little flappers, made of bunches of wild bulls’ hair, tied
to a short stick, in order to keep these pests at a distance. The
dates all being deposited in store-houses in the town, may account,
in some degree, for the multitude of these insects; which, in a few
minutes, fill every dish or bowl containing any liquid. The duties
paid by this place amount to 2000 dollars annually, exclusive of a
tax of one dollar on each two hundred date trees. All the people
attached to the Sultan, and ourselves also, received food twice
a day from the Sheikh, who collected it from the inhabitants;
our horses likewise got a daily portion of dates.
The costume here is the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting
generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals: a few,
whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli. The
neat appearance of the men, in general, is very striking, compared
with that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are considered
exceedingly handsome; indeed, one or two whom I saw at Fatma’s
were really so, and as fair as Europeans; but they are noted for
their profligacy and love of intrigue.
When the kingdom of Fezzan was governed by a native Prince, this
town and the two neighbouring ones were, in a manner, independent;
the distance from their own capital, as well as from Tripoli,
securing them from surprise. All discontented or disaffected people,
from either country, took refuge here, and the population was, at
that time, more than double what it now is. The people of Sockna
speak a language peculiar to themselves and to the Tuarick of the
Great Desert; it is called Ertāna, and is, I believe, the original
Breber tongue. In another part of this work, I have given a short
vocabulary of it. Mukni receives all his tribute in person, and is,
from daylight until dark, sitting in the midst of the Arabs. As
soon as the business of one party is settled, a prayer is recited,
and room is left for another equally noisy set, who, though they
dispute and make all sort of difficulty about paying their money,
are never suffered by Mukni to gain their point: at the very
moment indeed when they appear most confident of having their
complaints attended to, some one of Mukni’s men cries out “The
Fattha!” (or first chapter of the Koran), every one joining in
that prayer. This is the signal for the poor creatures to retire,
and they are then obliged to consider their claims as settled.
The Sheikh is in continual apprehensions of losing his life; his
predecessor having, the year before, been found one night with his
throat cut, and no one was allowed to inquire who committed the
deed. The inhabitants were obliged to pay a fine or penalty of 2000
dollars to Mukni (who alone was supposed guilty), in consequence
of the murder having been perpetrated in the town.
It being necessary for the Sultan to employ persons of trust to
receive his taxes at Hoon and Wadan, as well as from the neighbouring
Arabs, he proposed sending with them his young son Yussuf, allowing
Mr. Ritchie and myself also to accompany them, in order to afford us
a safe opportunity of seeing those places. A troop of about thirty
horsemen being prepared, on the 14th of June we set out. Little
Yussuf was placed under the charge of a man named Ibrahim, who had
also orders to attend to and supply all our wants.
After passing over the plain, and through the palms, east by south
ten miles, we arrived at Hoon, حون. It is a smaller town than
Sockna, but walled, and built in the same manner: its palms and
gardens are close to the walls. It has three gates, three mosques,
and a large building which is dignified with the name of a castle,
although it does not appear even to have a loophole for musketry. The
inhabitants, having about three hundred muskets, came out to welcome
Yussuf, and we met with the same boisterous reception as was given a
few days before to the Sultan. A number of dancing women performed
in the court of the house in which we were assembled, the greatest
part of the day; and in the evening the slaves joined the concert
with their cymbals. The whole was so completely to the taste of
Mukni’s men, and continued so long, that the performers were
literally tired out. When they came to request corn or money from
the spectators, it was to us they first applied, as considering us
the greatest personages; but we were so poor, in despite of our fine
garments, that we actually had nothing to give, which disappointed
and astonished them much.
[Illustration:
_Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon._
_On Stone by M. Gauci._
PIPER AND DANCER. TRIPOLI. DANCING WOMAN. SOCKNA.
_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._
_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]
In the burying-grounds near the town we observed that nearly all the
graves were ornamented with one or more ostrich eggs, as were the
doors and angles of the mosques, and their enclosures. We entered
the tomb of a Marāboot, and standing near the grave, recited the
“Fatha” aloud. In the evening we visited the gardens, which
are close to the town, the latter being completely hidden from the
view by the thick palms which surround it. The soil is sand, but
the grain was in the most luxuriant state of forwardness, owing to
its being constantly refreshed by little channels from the wells,
the water of which is brackish.
The people of the town having been told what sum of money they were
required to collect before we returned from Wadan, we proceeded
on the 15th April to that place, passing over a barren stony flat
east by north twelve or thirteen miles. The town is not walled,
and appears very inferior to the other two in point of neatness,
comfort, and convenience, though its aspect is much more pleasing,
as it is built on a conical hill, on the top of which are some
enclosed houses, called the Castle. Here there is a well of great
depth, cut through the solid rock, and evidently not the work of
the Bedouins. One of the Shreefs took us into a mosque, that we
might examine a curious stone, bearing an Arabic inscription in
raised letters, and, from its date, it must have been above six
hundred years old. It was let into the mud wall, but no one knew
where it had been found. Mr. Ritchie did not attempt to copy it,
as we were not yet enough acquainted with the customs of the Arabs
to know if it would be permitted. The tombs and mosques, as at Hoon,
were ornamented with quantities of ostrich eggs.
The natives of Wadan are Arabs of the tribe Moajer مواجر, who
chiefly spend their time in attending their flocks at the Syrtis
الصرت, and resident shreefs, or descendants of the Prophet;
the latter forming the greater part of the population. There is a
chain of mountains, a few miles east of the town, called also Wadan,
on account of the immense number of buffaloes to be found there,
and which are of three species; viz. the Wadan, an animal of the
size of an ass, having very large horns, short reddish hide, and
large bunches of hair hanging from each shoulder, to the length of
eighteen inches or two feet: they have very large heads, and are
very fierce. The Bogra el Weish البقرّالويش, which is a
red buffalo, slow in its motions, having large horns, and being of
the size of an ordinary cow; and the white buffalo of a lighter and
more active make, very shy and swift, and not easily procured. The
calving time of these animals is in April or May. There are also
in these mountains great quantities of ostriches, by hunting which
many of the natives subsist. All the Arabs here agree respecting
the manner in which these birds sit on their eggs, and which I was
not before aware of. They are not left to be hatched by the warmth
of the sun, but the parent bird forms a rough nest, in which she
covers from fourteen to eighteen eggs, and regularly sits on them
in the same manner as the common fowl does on her chickens; the male
occasionally relieving the female. It is during the breeding season
that the greatest numbers are procured, the Arabs shooting the old
ones while on their nests. At all the three towns, Sockna, Hoon,
and Wadan, it is the custom to keep tame ostriches in a stable, and
in two years, to take three cuttings of their feathers. I imagine,
from what I have seen of the skins of ostriches brought for sale,
that all the fine feathers sent to Europe are from tame birds;
the wild ones being generally so ragged and torn, that not above
half a dozen good perfect ones can be found. The white feathers
are what I allude to; the black, being shorter and more flexible,
are generally good. All the camels belonging to these people are
sent to the Syrtis, to pasture; a distance of about five days’
journey. It sometimes occurs, that after a great deal of rain has
fallen, the plains beyond the Wadan mountains acquire sufficient
verdure to feed the cattle for a few weeks.
On this evening we had some juice of the palm-tree, called Lackbi,
brought us, together with some milk; and the dancing women remained
until midnight. The tribute was all paid at the evening prayer.
April 16th.—Returned to Hoon, where we were received as before. It
being Friday, we saw every one preparing to go to the assembly at
the Mosque. Mr. Ritchie declined attending; but I was determined
to make my debut, and to see how I could go through the necessary
formalities. I therefore prepared myself, by endeavouring to appear
quite unconcerned, and readily accompanied the Sultan’s chief
followers, who seemed pleased at my joining them. There were about
200 people present, and additional prayers were recited in honour
of the Sultan (Mukni) and his family. I found I acquitted myself
very well, although one or two of the old people, as I thought,
viewed me with an eye of suspicion, well aware that I had but very
little knowledge of Arabic. The tribute-money was brought this
day by the Sheikh, a great crowd attending him. A little boy who
was amongst them made himself known to us, as having come in the
same kafflé with us from Tripoli. We recollected, and made use of
him to show us round the town, which he did readily, occasionally
running before us, and calling to all the girls of his acquaintance,
to come out and look at the new Mamlukes. This they did in crowds,
and with their faces uncovered: some of them were rather pretty,
and appeared to take pleasure in conversing with us, laughing much
at the mistakes we made, in consequence of our slight knowledge of
Arabic. The boy asked us many amusing questions about our future
intentions, and was particularly anxious to know where we were
going, and whether for the purpose of collecting slaves, as he
suspected. We, of course, disclaimed any such intention, adding,
that in our own country we looked on slavery with horror. At
this he expressed great contempt of us, exclaiming, “D——n
their fathers, the asses!” a common oath amongst these people,
“what are they made for, but to serve us? go then and take them,
for they are Kaffirs, and we cannot do without them.” I mention
this as a specimen of all the Arabs, who believe most religiously,
that the Negroes were only created for their service. The natives of
Hoon are of the tribe Fateima فتيمه, and are of good character.
17th April.—We returned to Sockna. On this day I made an attempt
to prove how far it was possible to exercise authority over the
Arabs, and Mr. Ritchie not wishing to interfere, left me to act
as I thought proper. The case was this: during our journey from
Tripoli I had observed a poor slave, of about fifty years of age,
belonging to the owner of some of our camels, so fatigued as to be
scarcely able to follow us. His frame was quite emaciated, and his
feet and legs much swelled. His inhuman master, notwithstanding
the deplorable state in which he was, invariably sent him out
all night to attend the camels, and he only brought them back to
commence another sad day’s journey, during which he was frequently
beaten. On arriving at Sockna he was sent on to the desert with the
animals, and returned to the town this day in a high fever, and in a
most miserable condition. His master, according to custom, beat him
severely with a stick, and finding the poor black unable to cry out,
actually took stones and beat him on the head with them, another Arab
assisting in the cruel task. So much unnecessary barbarity induced
me to endeavour to defend the poor sufferer; but my interference
was greeted with no very polite expressions, and my endeavouring
to prove that the poor black was a human creature as well as his
master, exposed me to much laughter and contempt. I pursued my
point, however, and immediately went to Mukni’s chief black,
swearing by the Sultan’s head, that he should instantly punish
the master of the slave. To my great satisfaction he immediately
complied, giving the wretch a very severe bastinado, as hard as two
men could lay it on. When I returned to our house, the other Arab
laughed at and taunted me to such a degree, that I was obliged
(to his great astonishment) to give him a good thrashing, not a
little apprehensive, I must own, lest some revenge should be taken
on me in consequence; but I soon found I had nothing to dread,
for these very men never after omitted coming daily to kiss my
hand; and, while I was in sight, always caressed the poor slave,
who from that time became a kind of pensioner on us.
The Arabs of Sockna are of the tribe Riahh رياه. There are also
some wanderers from Tripoli and the Syrtis, who frequent these towns
on the soofra جوفره, or frontier. They are of the tribes Waled
boo Saif اولاد ابو سيف, Waled ben Miriam اولاد بن
مريم and Sohhoob سحوب, and change their residence as they
find pasture. Their little moveable tents are their only habitations;
for even in the neighbourhood of towns they make a small encampment
while they remain.
All our business being settled, we prepared to leave this
place. Mr. Ritchie presented the Sheikh with some powder and cutlery
ware, which, as I discovered some time after, was taken away from
him by the covetous Sultan for his own use.
Lilla Fatema was at this time very ill, and as Mr. Ritchie declined
visiting her, I became her doctor, and by means of some compounds
of my own invention, quite cured her. Amongst the little secrets
of her illness, I found out that she indulged herself in pretty
large potions of Lackbi, which no doubt occasioned the head-aches
she complained of.
Mr. Ritchie made several attempts with Gambay’s dipping needle, the
results of which are with his papers, and we each brought Sockna’s
latitude to 29° 5′ 36″ north, by observation of Spica Virginis.
On 22d of April left Sockna in company with the Sultan. At 11.30. we
were attended clear of the town by a great multitude of people, and
a prayer being recited, the horsemen all stopped, holding their open
hands with the palms towards heaven. After this, each one kissed
the Sultan’s hand, and returned home. At one we passed a small
spring, the only one in the country, of about two feet in diameter,
in which the water was pretty good. The Sultan here told us, with
an air of firm belief, that a Marāboot once travelling this way,
was overcome by thirst, and that by striking the ground with his
stick (in the name of God), this water arose. At 3.30. we entered
a wadey in the Soudah mountains, called Octooffa اكطوفه,
bearing from Sockna south by west, and at six encamped near a
well of tolerably good water, called Gutfa قتفا. Our place of
encampment was a small plain, without any other vegetation than
a few prickly bushes of talhh. This spot was surrounded on every
side by high mountains of basalt, which gave it the appearance of
being in the crater of a volcano. We here presented our Bouzaferr
بوزفرّ, which is a kind of footing paid by all travellers on
entering Fezzan, and is attended with ceremonies something similar
to those observed on crossing the line. Should any person refuse
the necessary distribution of food, the Arabs dig a grave, telling
him that it is made expressly for him, and howling as for a dead
person, with many other ridiculous pranks, which generally produce
the wished-for feast. We took with us, for this purpose, two sheep,
and a quantity of meal, and distributed portions to all the tents,
much to the satisfaction of our fellow travellers. Lilla Fatma also
paid her footing, as did one or two others, who had never before
passed these mountains. We this day had advanced south 10° west
eighteen miles.
April 25th.—Having filled five days water for ourselves and horses,
we left the well at 6.40. A.M. The camels took a circuitous route
along a deep valley, owing to a very steep mountain called Nufdai
نوفدي, lying in front of us. The horse and footmen ascended
it at 9.40. by a most difficult path of large irregular masses of
basalt. The horses, however, were sure-footed, and at 10.40. we again
descended to a wadey, called Zgar, where the camels joined us, after
having been four hours winding round the foot of the mountain, which
we had crossed in one. At 11.35. ascended from the wadey to a flat,
called Dahr t’Moumen دحارتمومين (or the believer’s
back). The basalt here was in less quantities, and often in small
broken pieces, resembling gravel. At 1.10. we descended to a wadey,
called Emzairaat مزيرعت, when we saw a few antelopes.
Here, while I was resting under a tree, a man came and told me
that he had observed a snake of the most venomous species, called
Effa الفّا, coiled up under a bush. I instantly armed myself
with a ramrod, and having discovered the reptile, pinned it to
the ground by a stab through the lower jaw. Belford just then came
up, and fancying it was of a harmless kind, took it by the tail:
as he was on the opposite side of me, I did not perceive him, and
having pressed another stick on the creature’s head, I withdrew
the ramrod, in order to get a better hold of it. At this moment
Belford again pulled, and extricated the snake, which turned upon
and attempted to bite him; its tail, however, luckily broke, and it
fell back into the bush, where I immediately despatched it. Had it
wounded Belford, as it was on the point of doing, his death would
have been inevitable, as we had no instrument at hand for cutting
out the venom, or any fire with which to burn it, as is done with
effect by the Arabs. On examining the snake, I found it was of the
same species as some I had seen at Tripoli; those, however, did not
exceed six inches in length, whereas this was about two feet long,
and very bulky. Their colour is generally a dull reddish-brown, with
black spots; the belly yellow, and aspect particularly disagreeable
and malignant.
The movements of this snake are very peculiar: it does not propel
itself in the same way as other serpents, but in a lateral manner,
advances its right side, and then draws forward its head at each
motion, while, in the act of gliding on, it forms a figure resembling
the letter S.
Our road lay through several gloomy wadeys, when, at three, we
stopped in one called Tingareer طنقارير. At 4.15. the camels
came up, and as the place afforded some few bushes, we encamped
there for the purpose of refreshing them.
April 24th.—Camels started at 5.45. At ten, a distant mountain
north-west, called El Kohol (from its blackness). At twelve, after
passing a stony track, came to a wadey Mesheil مشيل. At two
P.M. cleared the mountainous part of the Soudah, and descended to
a plain, El Maitba Soudah الميتباسوده, from its being
covered with small pieces of basalt. At 2.45. came to a spot called
El Maitba Baida بيدا, having not the slightest trace of basalt,
and being covered with a very small white gravel.
We did not see, any where, the least appearance of vegetation;
but observed many skeletons of animals, which had died of fatigue
on the Desert, and occasionally the grave of some human being. All
these bodies were so dried by the extreme heat of the sun, that
putrefaction did not appear to have taken place after death. In
recently expired animals I could not perceive the slightest
offensive smell; and in those long dead, the skin, with the hair on
it, remained unbroken and perfect, although so brittle as to break
with a slight blow. The sand-winds never cause these carcasses to
change their places, as in a short time a slight mound is formed
round them, and they become stationary.
At 5.50. we passed low table-topped hills east and west of us,
called El Gaaf القعف. This desert was named Sbir ben Afeen
زبيربن عفين. At seven we encamped. The plain round us
presented so perfect a horizon, that an astronomical observation
might have been taken as at sea. From the excessive dryness of
the air, our blankets and barracans emitted electric sparks, and
crackled distinctly on being rubbed. The horses’ tails, also,
in beating off the flies, had the same effect. Our whole Kafflé
were much fatigued. This day we had advanced south-south-west,
thirty-five miles.
April 25th.—At four, A.M. the camels set out; 8.15. we passed some
sand-hills, called el Ramle Kebeer الرامل كبير, or large
sands. At nine we came again on the plain, which was covered with a
white encrusted clay; at three, P.M. passed el Ramle Shraya, or small
sands, and at 4.45. descended by some precipitous rocks to a sandy,
irregular plain, very difficult and dangerous, until we had crossed
the sand-hills. At about half a mile to the eastward of the pass,
which, as well as the plain, is called Koneir كنير, is a singular
rock in a conical form, surmounted by another resembling a turret,
called Amaymet Saad اميمت سعد. Hills over the watering place
were pointed out to us in the distance, south-south-west. At nine we
entered a wadey, called Om el Abeed ام العبيد (the Mother
of the Slaves), and at eleven arrived at a well of the same name,
situated amongst the mountains, and having a quantity of bushes
growing about it.
We found here two large flocks of sheep and goats on the way to
Morzouk from Benioleed. We had supposed some flocks were ahead of
us, five or six sheep having been picked up by the Kafflé, while
still alive, but unable to walk, and had, therefore, been left to
perish. At twelve the camels arrived, having travelled twenty hours,
or above forty-eight miles, south-south-west. The wind was south
during the whole day, bringing with it such showers of burning
sand, as almost to smother us. We frequently lost our track, and
were unable to distinguish objects at the distance even of a few
yards. The flatness of the country offering no opposition to the
wind, we were exposed to all its fury. The little children of the
liberated negroes walked all this day, suffering most severely, their
heads being shaved, and constantly exposed to the burning heat of
the sun. One of the poor women was taken in labour in the afternoon,
and we were obliged to tie her on a camel to prevent her falling
off, and being left on the road to perish. We had arrived at this
place so late at night as to be unable to prepare any thing to eat.
April 26th.—Started at seven, A.M. leaving the camels to rest, and
the horsemen rode on for Zeighan زيغن, which place we reached
at ten, having passed over a rocky country. The village is walled,
and surrounded by a large forest of palms. We had here a most ample
quantity of provisions served up to us, and did great honour to
our meal. The camels arrived in the evening. Latitude of Zeighan,
27° 26′ north.
April 27th.—Moved on at 6 A.M. from Zeighan, passing over a barren
plain, having small basaltic hillocks; after travelling south 23°
west eight miles, arrived at Samnoo, سمنو, a village of the
same description, although larger, and rather more neatly walled
than the others. It has three tolerably built white-washed minarets,
rising to some height above the houses, which produce a very pleasing
appearance. These were the only minarets we had seen since we left
Tripoli. The houses are very neatly built, and the rooms are washed
with a yellow mud, instead of white-wash, which has a very pretty
effect. This town, as well as Zeighan, is famed for the number and
sanctity of its Marāboots; and I can vouch for their being the
best Arab cooks we had as yet met with. Palms encircle the town,
and the gardens are considered very good.
April 28th.—We left Samnoo at 7 P.M. riding, in the dark, over
a barren plain of gravel; and at midnight arrived at Temenhiut,
تمنحينت, where we found our tents ready pitched outside the
palms surrounding the town, which is but an inconsiderable one. Made
twenty miles south 75° west: Mukni told us he had never entered
the town, although he had encamped near it above twenty times.
April 29th.—We left this place at 4.30. P.M. and at 8 encamped
on a small plain.
April 30th.—Broke up our encampment at 7 A.M. and proceeded for
two hours over the hills, whence we descended a fine pass to a plain,
on which stands the town of Sebha; the singular appearance of which,
from the heights, was very picturesque. It is surrounded by groves
of palms, while the rest of the plain is a dreary desert. At 10
we arrived at the town, which rises like a little amphitheatre:
it is mud walled, and has a high square white-washed minaret to
its principal Mosque. All the male population came out to salute
the Sultan; and I observed that at this place the change of colour
began, the people here being Mulattoes. I remarked too, that the
greater part of their muskets had match-locks, and that not above
one in five went off. The houses appear in neat order, but very
low; and the walls are built in an irregular, but strong manner,
of mud. Mr. Ritchie made the latitude of Sebha 27° 3′ 8″ north.
May 1st.—The Sultan, after many disputes respecting money matters,
set off with us at 5.50. P.M. the camels having departed some
hours sooner. Our road, after passing the palms, was still, as it
had lately been, over a gravelly plain, having at intervals large
black detached stones lying on it. At midnight the horsemen stopped,
and at 1 A.M. the camels came up. We lay this night on a low plain,
amongst some small sand hills, which were quite barren. As the camels
arrived so late, there was great confusion in unloading them; and
the men were too much occupied to pay any attention to the ladies
in the Shiblias. Fatma, finding no helping hand near to assist her,
boldly attempted to uncoach herself; but the exertion, owing to her
excessive fat, caused her to fall, or rather roll off the camel,
to the great amusement of the Arabs.
May 2nd.—At 6.45. proceeded on our way, and at 12 came into a
wadey, having many palm bushes thickly growing about. A heavy sand
wind was blowing, and the sun was quite obscured by it. My horse,
taking fright at some object which he saw but indistinctly,
reared up, and fell back with me under him. Happily, I only
received a severe contusion on the arm. At 1.30. P.M. we arrived
at Ghroodwa, غرودوه, a miserable collection of mud huts,
containing about fifty people, who appeared a ragged drunken set,
as the immense number of tapped palm trees testified. From the ruins
of some large mud edifices, this place seems to have once been of
more importance. The palms, which extend for ten or fifteen miles
east and west, are the property of the Sultan, and appear in worse
condition than any we have seen.
May 3rd.—At 6.30. A.M. we left Ghroodwa, and again entered on
a barren stony plain; at 12 passed a small wadey called Wad el
nimmel, وادالنمّل, (or the valley of ants), from the immense
number of those insects, of a beautiful pink colour, which are found
there. At 6.40. P.M. we cleared this dreary waste, and entered on a
sandy plain, which was in many places thickly encrusted with salt. A
few scattered palms, and some ill built and ruined huts, appeared
at intervals, betokening the greatest wretchedness. At 8 reached a
few buildings of this description, called Dgleim, ظليمر. At
11 the camels arrived. The inhabitants from all the neighbouring
villages had assembled here; and I really believe more powder was
expended at this place, than at any other we had passed through,
although their muskets could not have amounted altogether to more
than fifty. The Sultan repeatedly called out, “Enough, Enough!”
but the natives only answered by fresh discharges, and exclaiming,
“We have plenty of powder.” As I was walking across the little
space in which they were exercising, one of the shooters, to do
me honour, fired his piece at my legs, which being bare, received
above a dozen coarse grains, like small shot. I bled a little,
which quite frightened the man, lest he should be discovered. I,
however, made light of it, and rubbed myself with salt and water.
The dancing ladies were indefatigable; and when I went to sleep
at midnight, were making as much noise, and were as active as
ever. Mr. Ritchie’s horse had for the last four or five days
entirely failed him, and was unable even to keep pace with the
camels: he did not come up with us until a little after midnight. As
we were only at the distance of three hours from Morzouk, many of
the people were occupied during the night in preparations for their
entry into the capital.
May 4th.—At 7 A.M. having shaved, washed, and adorned ourselves
in the finest clothes which we had at hand, we started. Mukni,
however, unwilling that his new Mamlukes should be less fine than
his own people, sent for two splendid bornouses, which he lent to
Mr. Ritchie and myself for this grand occasion, making us ride on
the right and left of him. Travelling over a desert plain, until
9.30. A.M. west by south, we entered the palm groves and gardens
of Morzouk; we then saw a large body of horse and foot advancing,
with three silk flags. When the horsemen came within five hundred
yards of us, they set off at full speed, and on joining our party,
threw themselves from their horses, and ran to kiss the Sultan’s
hand. His eldest son, Sidi Aleiwa, سيدي عليوه, headed them;
and after he had performed the same salutation, they all remounted
and joined in the procession. On approaching the town we were joined
by the dancers, drummers, and pipers. Two men stationed themselves
on each side of the Sultan, bearing fans of ostrich feathers, with
which they beat off the flies which incommoded him. We entered
the town at 10.30. A.M. preceded by the led horses, and six silk
flags. The horsemen having formed in two lines, in which I joined
them, skirmished until we came to the gate.