CHAPTER X

Throughout the fourteenth and two succeeding centuries Venice was

visited by a constant succession of epidemics of plague. This was the

price she was doomed to pay for the enjoyment of her Oriental commerce.

Standing, as she stood, at the meeting-place of east and west, so

long as the commerce of the east passed to the west by way of Syria

and Egypt, Venice knew no rival but Genoa, until the Turk appeared

at Constantinople to challenge her ascendancy. Plague and commerce

alike passed through Venice on their way to the countries of Central

and Northern Europe. Plague was in some sense the measure of Venetian

opulence, and with the loss of this opulence the number of her plagues

declined.

Venice had two main trade routes by sea,[174] one to the east and one

to the west, and two land routes to the north.

The first maritime route lay down the Adriatic, past the Ionian Isles,

and round Cape Matapan to Crete, where it divided into four branch

routes: (_a_) northwards to the Dardanelles, Constantinople, the

Black Sea, and the Sea of Azov; (_b_) along the shores of the Morea

and through the Aegean Islands to the Dardanelles; (_c_) to the ports

of Asia Minor, Smyrna, and Aleppo, Cyprus, Syria, Alexandretta, and

Beirut; (_d_) to Alexandria and Egypt. These two last branches linked

Venice to the caravan routes that led from Ormuz on the Persian Gulf to

Aleppo and Beirut, and from Suez to Alexandria, and at their far end

penetrated into the heart of Asia, Persia, India, and Cathay.

The second maritime route lay by way of the Adriatic westward to

Sicily, where it divided into two branch routes: (_a_) to Tunis,

Tripoli, and the ports of Spain; (_b_) through the Straits of Gibraltar

northwards as far as England and Flanders, bringing London and Bruges

into touch with the east.

The land routes from Venice to Central Europe lay for the most part

outside the confines of Venetian territory. One passed by way of the

Ampezzo valley northward to the Pusterthal and on to Innsbruck and

Munich; the other along the Po to Brescia and Bergamo, and thence by

Lake Como and the Splügen Pass to Constance. From Constance trade lines

diverged to all parts of Northern Europe.

A knowledge of these routes is necessary to understand the leading part

that Venice and Constance played in the carriage and distribution of

plague.

The discovery of the Cape route to the east in 1486, was the death-blow

to the trade monopoly of Venice. The lines of commerce shifted step by

step from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, and away from the ships of

Venice into those of the Portuguese, Spaniards, English, and Dutch.

The history of plague in Venice is in large part written in her

public monuments: her archives tell the rest. Venice has virtually

no literature of her own: two or three patriotic diarists, and that

is all. Her Renaissance gave birth to no harvest of men of letters:

painting and architecture sapped all her strength. Artists vied with

architects to write her history on canvas or on stone, not for the

enjoyment of private patrons, but for the embellishment of the city of

their birth.

In A.D. 1410 plague swept over Venice and Chioggia. In 1423 another

epidemic was imported from the east. It was this visitation that led

the Venetians to establish a pest-house or lazaretto on the island of

Santa Maria di Nazaret for infected persons and goods. It was supplied

with food, medicine, and medical attendance out of the revenue from

salt. This was the first institution of the kind in Europe, but it

quickly led to the establishment of more elsewhere.

The Government of Venice was never wont to fold its hands when plague

was at its door. So far back as the Black Death they had appointed

three nobles as _provveditori sopra la salute della terra_ to fight

the scourge. In 1468 these were supplemented by the addition of two

inhabitants of each _sestiere_, and in 1485 this commission was

reorganized as a permanent Board of Health. So by the end of the

fifteenth century Venice had organized and equipped an efficient

defensive system against the constant recurrence of plague.

A second lazaretto was established during the plague of 1576 on the

island of Sant’ Erasmo, and in the same year the Republic summoned

learned professors of medicine from Padua—Girolamo Mercuriale and

Giovanni Capodivacca—to identify the disease, and it was no fault of

the Republic that they pronounced it not to be plague.

A curious evidence of the mutual influence of religion and therapeutics

on each other is the fixing of quarantine at forty days, because this

was the period that Christ dwelt apart in the wilderness.

Venetian doctors for the most part seem now to have mended their ways

and devoted themselves loyally to the service of the sick. In a book

published in Venice in A.D. 1493, _Fasciculus medicus Johannis de

Ketam_, the physician Pietro da Fossignano is shown visiting a plague

patient. As he feels the pulse, he holds to his mouth and nostrils

a sponge, steeped in some antipestilential aromatic. Pietro’s death

about A.D. 1400 helps towards fixing the date of this simple clinical

precaution. In later years a special plague dress was devised for

doctors, which was adopted from Italy by France, and of which several

engravings exist of about the time of the 1720 plague of Marseilles

(see pp. 206-8). Ambroise Paré recommends that the material should be

camlet, serge, satin, taffeta, or morocco, but not cloth, frieze, or

fur, which might harbour the poison and carry death to the healthy.

Venice had also her street ambulance in the brotherhood of S. Rocco,

instituted for the purpose of conveying the sick to hospital and the

dead to burial. Their services were sorely taxed in times of plague.

A specimen of the working dress of the Order may still be seen in the

Treasury of the Scuola di San Rocco. It is a loose white cotton overall

with full hanging sleeves. On each side of the chest is an oval white

satin badge, embroidered with red silk and edged with red lace. On one

the figure of Christ is embroidered in silk: on the other that of S.

Rocco with his dog. It is bound at the waist with a corded girdle of

white cotton with heavily ornamented cotton tassels at each end. A deep

peaked hood of the same material completely covers the head, having

only slits as apertures for the eyes. White leather gloves complete

the costume. A similar dress was worn by many of the charitable

confraternities of Central Italy, and is to be seen in several Sienese

pictures (see Plate VIII). It has its modern counterpart in the

operating dress of the aseptic surgeon, but by a queer turn of the

whirligig of time its purpose is no longer to keep infection out, but

to keep it in.

The Guild of San Rocco had come into existence at least as early as

A.D. 1415, but it was not till 1478 that leave was obtained from

the Government to enlist a confraternity under the standard of San

Rocco. Its first meeting-place was the church of San Giuliano, but

in 1485 the guild undertook to build a church for the custody of the

body of the saint, which some Venetians had surreptitiously removed

from Montpellier. Five years sufficed to complete the church, and the

saint’s body was laid in it with great solemnity. The precious relic

was destined to bestow great prestige on its possessors. Of the five

great charitable guilds of Venice, that of S. Rocco was by far the

greatest. From 1516 to the end of the Republic each Doge was enrolled

a member, along with many of the richest merchants of Venice. In this

year the brethren determined to erect a meeting-house adjacent to the

church, which should be an added ornament to the city. So the building

of the Scuola was commenced in 1517 by Bartolommeo Bon, only to be

finished in 1550 by Antonio Scarpagnino.

While the Scuola was in course of construction, the original church

of S. Rocco was found to be insecure, and was rebuilt, but not in its

present form, which is no older than 1725. In 1559 the Confraternity

entrusted its decoration to Tintoretto, and there are still to be seen

there, on the rare occasions when daylight suffices, the four pictures

in which the artist set himself to illustrate the life of the saint.

These are (1) St. Roch in hospital; (2) St. Roch healing animals; (3)

The capture of St. Roch; (4) The appearance of an angel to St. Roch in

prison. The small picture that hangs by a side-altar—the ‘Betrayal of

Christ’, by Titian—has received all the homage that should have been

paid to Tintoretto’s subjects: indeed, the offerings rendered to this

‘miraculous’ picture enabled the guild to rebuild their Scuola. To this

church the Doge came yearly on August 16 to implore St. Roch to ward

off plague from the Republic.

In 1560 the growing wealth of the guild induced them to call in

competition the leading painters of Venice to decorate the halls of

the Scuola. Andrea Schiavone, Federigo Zuccaro, Giuseppe Salviati,

Paolo Veronese, and Tintoretto were all invited to prepare drawings and

submit them to the judges on the appointed day. While the others had

merely sketched designs, Tintoretto had finished a complete picture,

‘St. Roch in glory’, that now occupies the centre of the ceiling of the

refectory. To ensure still further his success, Tintoretto presented

the picture to the guild. From this time until 1588 the decoration of

the Scuola formed the chief part of Tintoretto’s work. By the beginning

of 1566 he had completed the superb ‘Crucifixion’ in the refectory

of the upper hall, and on its completion he was admitted to the

Confraternity, and assigned an annual subsidy of 100 ducats (about £50)

in payment for three finished pictures each year. Here, at any rate,

he found scope for the expression of an inexhaustible fancy: but those

who have attempted to study the paintings of the Scuola will appreciate

something of the difficulties he had to surmount owing to the defective

light which, as in the church, renders the pictures invisible except on

the brightest days.

As Michelangelo had done in the Sistine Chapel, so Tintoretto thought

out in advance a comprehensive and harmonious scheme for the entire

adornment of the halls. The key-note of it all is the dedication of the

Scuola to San Rocco, the patron saint of the plague-stricken, and also

of those who ministered to them. So the paintings in the upper hall

represent acts of mercy and deliverance, illustrated in Christ’s life

on earth. Those in the lower hall of entrance, eight in number, setting

forth mainly the history of the Virgin and her infant Son, form thus

an appropriate prelude to the upper series. Giovanni Marchiori and his

pupils have faithfully pursued the scheme in the twenty subjects from

the life of St. Roch carved in the panelling of the upper hall. The

great staircase that joins the two halls is decorated with frescoes of

plague scenes by Zanchi (1666) and Negri (1673), of little artistic

merit. Yet another memorial of plague survives in the rows of wooden

standard lamps, set round the upper hall, which the brethren used to

carry in processions to the honour of their patron saint.

Tintoretto was still at his work in the Scuola when the appalling

plague of 1575-7 fell on Venice, carrying Titian to his grave, within

close hail of his centenary. While others were hurried away to obscure

burial in the common plague pits of Sant’ Erasmo and the outlying

islands, the body of the old man, who had brought so great glory to

Venice, was accorded the honour of a public funeral by order of the

Signoria. After lying in state it was carried to the beautiful Gothic

church of S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, wearing the insignia of Imperial

Knighthood, conferred on him by Charles V, and placed in a tomb at

the foot of the altar of the Cross. Here Titian sleeps his last sleep

unmindful, be it hoped, of the outrage in marble inflicted on his

memory by Ferdinand I of Austria, at the hands of Luigi and Pietro

Zandomeneghi. Titian’s eldest son died with him, and his second son,

Pomponio, a canon of Milan, hastened to Venice, as soon as he was

assured that all danger was past, and quickly dissipated the fortune

that the painter had amassed by the thrift and labour of a lifetime.

For three years this plague devastated Venice, carrying off no less

than 50,000 souls, one quarter of her whole population. The Doge,

Luigi Mocenigo, displayed throughout the utmost courage and devotion.

He himself superintended all the efforts to arrest the plague, and

ministered in person to the sick. He went in solemn procession with

all the confraternities of Venice to the church of S. Rocco, to vow

the erection of another church, if only the saint would intercede

for them. As Cyprian and Gregory had done before him, he addressed

words of consolation and encouragement to his people in the sanctuary

of his cathedral church. But Luigi was dead when the day came for

his successor to summon the people of Venice to St. Mark’s to fulfil

Luigi’s vow.

Picture to yourself Venice one July Sunday under a cloudless sky. From

the pulpit of St. Mark’s some aged patriarch has proclaimed the freedom

of the city from plague. Out of the coloured gloom of the church files

the procession into the dazzling glare of the Piazza. All Venice is

there: Venice is in jubilant mood. St. Mark’s, Ducal Palace, Campanile,

and all the buildings around are gay with carpets and tapestries, with

pictures and gilded shields. Banners of gorgeous colours flutter to

the crisp sea-breeze from the columns of Theodore and the Lion. Amid

wild shouting of people and roar of cannon, and ringing of bells

the procession wheels to the Piazzetta. Before it lies the lagoon,

stretching over to S. Giorgio Maggiore, and away to the Lido beyond,

sparkling and shimmering in the sunlight, like some great scintillating

jewel. God and man seem to have joined hands there to create the

fairest spot of earth. From Piazzetta to Giudecca a bridge of boats has

been thrown over, near half a mile in length. On to the bridge goes

the procession.[175] The guilds and confraternities, displaying their

respective standards and carrying crosses, images of the Madonna and

saints, and reliquaries, lead the way, followed by magistrates, nobles,

and their ladies. Next come the patriarchs, the Church dignitaries, and

canons in their rochets, the friars, chanting, under the banners of

their fourteen orders, the clergy robed in rich copes embroidered with

gold and sewn with jewels, under their eleven banners. Last of all,

accompanied by senators and ambassadors, comes the Doge, Sebastiano

Venier, hero of Lepanto, a noble figure, robed in white with a splendid

mantle of silver brocade hanging from his shoulders. In a temporary

wooden oratory built close to the place where the Redentore Church was

to rise from the plans of Palladio, Mass was sung this day to music by

Giuseppe Zarlino of Chioggia, the Doge’s chief musician. And the sound

of this jubilant day has echoed down the ages and may be still heard

at the yearly _Festa del Redentore_ in July, as the procession passes

over its bridges of boats from San Zobenigo to Zattere, and Zattere

to Giudecca, but shorn of much of its former glory. Where stood the

wooden chauntry stands now Palladio’s church, a plague-spot on the face

of nature. Théophile Gautier, nevertheless, saw beauty in its aspect

by the light of the setting sun. Within there are no pictures and no

memorials of the plague to which it owes its being. A Venetian medal,

showing the Doge with the banner of St. Mark kneeling before Christ,

commemorates this plague.

Venice has other churches to commemorate her plagues besides San Rocco

and the Redentore; oldest of all, S. Giobbe, church and convent, built

in the middle of the fifteenth century (1462-71) by Doge Cristoforo

Moro, the friend of S. Bernardino, and dedicated to the Job of

Scripture who was plagued with all manner of diseases. Over the high

altar was once the famous picture by Giovanni Bellini, now in the

Accademia, of the Madonna and Child enthroned between St. Job, St. John

Baptist, St. Sebastian, St. Francis, and St. Louis of Toulouse. Venice

brought the cult of S. Giobbe along with plague from the east: he is

hardly known elsewhere in Italy.

Only a few years later (1506-18) another plague church, that

of S. Sebastiano, was built for the Order of St. Jerome by the

two architects, F. da Castiglione and A. Scarpagnino. It is the

burial-place of Veronese, to whom most of its decoration is due. The

ceilings of both church and sacristy are enriched with his pictures,

set in deep gilded mouldings. Over the high altar is an ‘Apotheosis of

St. Sebastian’, to whom the Madonna appears in heaven, along with St.

Mark, St. Jerome, St. John Baptist, and St. Catharine of Alexandria.

To the left of the altar is Veronese’s famous ‘Martyrdom of Marcus and

Marcellinus’.

While this church was building Giorgione died of plague. About his four

and thirtieth year he had become wildly enamoured of a young woman, and

when the plague seized her he still paid her secret visits, and taking

the sickness from her lips with her kisses, he paid for his love with

his life.

Last, but best known of all, is the church of S. Maria della Salute,

begun by Baldassare Longhena in 1632, to commemorate the plague of

1630-1, which carried off 46,490 in Venice, and 94,235 in the whole

lagoons. Doge Niccolò Contarini had vowed a church to the Madonna of

Health, if she would deliver the Republic from the plague. During its

building a temporary wooden oratory was built on a piece of land, which

the Knights Templar had bestowed on the Republic, and Doge, Council,

nobles, and people crossed over the Grand Canal by a bridge of boats

to hear a solemn Mass. In the sacristy of Longhena’s church are two

seventeenth century prints, one showing the procession as it crosses

the pontoon bridge, the other, as it files up into the church. Each

year in November the procession starts from St. Mark’s and crosses the

Grand Canal by the Redentore route, and circles round the church to

the entrance facing the Canal. Modern Venice has transformed a solemn

pageant into a fancy fair. These prints show the church as it now

stands, on a platform at the top of a great flight of stairs leading

up from the Grand Canal, but a statue of the Madonna has replaced the

Angel of Pestilence on the summit of its larger dome.

S. Maria della Salute contains many memorials of plague. Over the high

altar is a heavy group of marble statuary by Giusto il Corto. In the

centre sits the Madonna holding her Child, with cherubs at her feet. On

one side kneels a woman entreating her aid: on the other a cherub with

flaming torch expels a plague demon of human form.

In the vault of the choir is a ceiling painting by Fiammingo showing

Venice imploring liberation from plague.

In the sacristy is Titian’s picture of St. Mark with St. Sebastian,

St. Roch, Cosmas, and St. Damian, commemorating the plague of 1512, in

which Giorgione perished (see Plate IX). Here, too, is Marco Basaiti’s

(second half of fifteenth century) votive picture of St. Sebastian,

a fine figure in a beautiful Umbrian landscape, but not the peer of

Sodoma’s saint: and yet another picture of St. Roch, St. Sebastian, and

St. Jerome by Girolamo da Treviso (1497-1544).

FOOTNOTES:

[174] Horatio Brown, _The Venetian Republic_.

[175] Molmenti, _Venezia_.

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