_Janizaries_ quenched, as their manner is, by plucking down the Houses
adjoining. Upon occasion of this Accident, give me leave to inform you,
that the _Turkish_ Soldiers are well-pleased when a Fire happens; for,
whereas they must be employed to quench it, and usually do it by ruining
the contiguous Houses, they have thereby an opportunity to rifle and
plunder both; so that they themselves do oftentimes privily set Houses
on Fire, that so they may filch and steal what they can out of them; as
I remember once, when I was at _Constantinople_, there were frequent
Conflagrations of Houses. ’Twas plain, they could not happen casually,
but must be set on Fire a purpose, and yet the Authors could not be
found; but the Fault was commonly cast on some _Persian_ Spies that were
in Town: At last, upon a diligent Search, ’twas found that the Soldiers
had stirr’d up their Fellows, that were a Ship-board, to do the Feat;
that so, during the Fire, they might enrich themselves with the Spoils.
Upon an high Hill, that hangs over and commands _Amasia_, there is a
strong Castle, wherein the _Turks_ have a continual Garrison, either to
curb the _Asiaticks_, who are not very well pleased with the _Ottoman_
Yoke (as I shall shew anon) or else to bridle the _Persian_, who many
times make large Excursions even as far as this Town, though at such a
vast distance from them. In this Hill there are some ancient Monuments,
which, perhaps, were the Sepulchres of the _Cappadocian_ Kings.
As for the Houses and Streets of _Amasia_, there is little or no Beauty
in them. Their Houses are built of Loom, as they are in _Spain_, plain at
top without any Roof, and what covering they have is of Loom or Clay too.
They have some old piece of a Pillar, Cylinder or Roller, which they turn
up and down to stop any Chink or Crevice, made either by Rain or Wind.
The Inhabitants, in former Times, lay down to sleep in the open Air. As
for Rains, they are not great, nor frequent in those Parts; but if at
any time a Shower falls, the Loomy Droppings from the Eaves, do wofully
dirty the Cloths of those that pass under them. I saw there a certain
young noble Person, living not far from me, at his Supper, after the old
_Roman_ fashion, lying on a Bed. As soon as I came to _Amasia_, we were
introduced to compliment the supreme Vizier _Achmet_, and the rest of the
_Bashaw_’s, for their Emperor was then gone abroad; we treated with them
a while concerning the Contents of our Embassy; and because they would
not seem to prejudice us, they lent us a favourable Ear; referring all,
however, to the Will and Pleasure of their Emperor. When he came home, we
were led into his Presence, for Audience; but he entertain’d us (and the
Reasons we alledg’d in the Speech we made him, according to the Command
of my Master) with a sour and frowning Look. He sate upon a low Throne,
not above a Foot from the Ground, but it was all covered over with rich
Tapestry, and with Cushions exquisitely wrought. His Bow and Arrows lay
by his side, he himself (as I said) looked sternly upon us; and yet
there was a certain Majesty, mix’d with Severity, in his Countenance.
Each of us, as we entred the Room, was led up towards him by some of
his Bed-chamber Officers, who held us by the Arm, (for so they use to
introduce Ambassadors, ever since a certain _Croatian_, desiring to speak
with _Amurath_, and drawing near to him so to do, slew him in revenge of
the death of his Master, _Mark_ the _Despot_ of _Servia_, who was killed
by the said _Amurath_): and afterwards, as if we had kiss’d his Hand, we
were led backward to the opposite part of the Room; for the _Turks_ count
it an unmannerly thing to turn any of their Back-parts to their Prince.
From thence I had liberty to declare our Master’s Commands; but they
suited not with his lofty, imperious Spirit, who thought that nothing
ought to be denied him, for they were daring and high; so that he, as
disdaining them, said nothing but _Giusel, Giusel!_ (i. e.) _Well, Well!_
And so we were dismissed to our Lodgings.
At our Audience there was a very full Court, for a great many Governors
of Provinces were there with their Presents; and, besides the Imperial
Horse, _Spahi’s_, _Janipagits_ and _Ululags_, there were also a great
number of _Janizaries_. But, among this vast number of Courtiers, there
was not so much as one more eminent for Birth and Parentage; each one, by
his Valour and adventurous Atchievements, was the Carver out of his own
Fortune. Their Honour ariseth from their Preferments; so that there is
no dispute about Precedency, but every Man’s Pre-eminces is according to
the Office which he bears. And those Offices are distributed at the meer
Will and Pleasure of the Prince, who does not regard the empty Name of
Nobility, nor value a Rush the Favour of the Multitude, or of any other
particular Man; but, considering only the Merits and Disposition of the
Man, he rewards him accordingly. And, by that means, Employments are
bestowed upon such Persons as are best able to manage them; and every
Man hath an opportunity to be the Hammerer out of his own Honour and
Preferment. Those which at present are the greatest Officers under their
Emperor, were mostly the Sons of Shepherds or Neatherds; and they are so
far from being ashamed of the Meanness of their Original, that they glory
therein among one another; and account it more Praise-worthy to be the
Advancers of themselves, than if they had Honour transmitted down to them
from their Ancestors.
For thus they argue, Virtue is not propagated from our Parents, but is
partly the Gift of God, and partly acquired by good Discipline, and by
our own Labour and Industry; so that, as no Son hath his Father’s Skill
in Music, Arithmetic or Geometry, derived to him from his Birth, so
neither can Fathers bequeath Virtue as an Inheritance to their Children;
for the Soul, say they, is not communicated with the Father’s Seed (so
that a Son must necessarily be born alike qualified as his Father was)
but it is infus’d into his Body from the God of Heaven. Thus in that
Nation, Dignities, Honours, Offices, _&c._ are the Rewards of Virtue and
Merit; as on the other side, Dishonesty, Sloth, and Idleness, are among
them the most despicable things in the whole World. And by this means
they flourish, bear sway, and enlarge the Bounds of their Empire every
day more and more. But we, _Christians_, to our shame be it spoken,
live at another manner of rate; Virtue is little esteemed among us, but
Nobleness of Birth (forsooth) carries away all the Honour and Preferment.
But enough of this at present: More may be spoken on this Argument
hereafter; and what I have now said about it, pray keep it to your self,
for other Men may not be able to bear my Freedom herein.
To return, then, to my Subject; I shall now present you with a surprizing
Spectacle, even a multitude of Persons with picket Turbants on their
Heads, made of pure white Linnen folded together in Plates; their other
Apparel was very costly, of several Sorts and Colours, all most radiantly
shining with Gold, Silver, Purple, Silk, Velvet, _&c._ I am not able
to describe the Gaudiness of the _Show_; in one Word, ’twas the most
glorious one I ever saw in all my Life. And yet, in all this Splendor,
there was a great deal of Simplicity and Parsimony too. Those who were
of one Order had Cloathing all of one sort; there were no foolish Hems,
Lacings, Fringes or Borders, as among us, which cost a great deal of
Money, and yet wear out in a day or two. The Silk and Velvet Suits, which
many of them wore, though mightily embroidered, yet cost not above a
Ducat the making and embroidering. They did as much admire to see the
Fashion of our Cloaths, as we did that of theirs. Their Vests are very
long, almost down to their Heels, which is more graceful, and makes them
seem taller than they are; but our Apparel (forsooth) is so curtail’d
and short, that it hardly covers the Parts which Nature would have to
be concealed; on which Account it is less decent. Besides, it seems to
take away some Inches from the Tallness of our Stature, and look more
_Dwarf-like_. And yet, among so great a Multitude, I took notice of
this most laudable Circumstance; ’twas all _hush_; not so much as a
word spoken among them all, nor no humming Noise, as among a tumultuous
Multitude; no justling one of another, but every particular Man quietly
kept his own Station. The Heads of them, which they call _Aga’s_, had
Seats to sit upon, such as their _Serasquiers_, or _Generals_, their
_Brigadiers_, _Colonels_ and _Captains_; but the Commonalty stood on
their Feet. Among the rest, I most admir’d the _Janizaries_; though
there were some Thousands of them, yet they stood at a distance one from
another; Stock-still, (as we say) as if they had been Statues: So that I,
who was at some distance from them, thought verily they had been so, till
being advised to salute them, as the manner is, I saw them all bow their
Heads, by way of Resalutation, unto me. When we passed from this Shew,
behold there was another pleasurable one, which entertain’d us; and that
was their Horse-Guards, in their March to their Quarters. They rode upon
gallant stately Prancers, excellently well trapped, equipped, and Shod.
Thus we were dismissed, but with little hopes of obtaining what we came
for.
On the 10th of _May_, the _Persian_ Ambassador came to _Amasia_, and
brought with him rich and gallant Presents, as many choice sorts of
Hangings, _Babylonian_ Tents, curiously wrought within with many sorts
of Needle-work, gallant Horse-Trappings, and Saddles, Scymiters made
at _Damascus_, whose Handles were studded with Jewels, and Shields of
curious Workmanship; but that which exceeded them all, was the _Alcoran_,
so they call the Book containing the Rites and Ceremonies of their
Religion, which they fancy _Mahomet_ compos’d by Divine Inspiration, and
which is accounted the most noble Present of all. They quickly accorded
with him on Terms of Peace, so that it concern’d us to be cautious, who
were to find greater obstruction in our Negotiations with them. And, to
assure us that the Peace was confirm’d betwixt them, they omitted no
manner of extraordinary Respect to their Ambassador. For the manner of
the _Turks_ is, (as I told you before,) to be excessive on both Sides,
either in bestowing Honour on their Friends, or in heaping Reproaches on
their Enemies. _Haly Basha_, Deputy to the _Grand Vizier_, treated the
_Persian_ with a sumptuous Dinner, which he made in his Garden, a Place
far distant from us, and separated also by the interposal of the River,
yet we could see the Manner of it well enough; for, I told you, the
Place was seated so high on both sides of the Hill, that the Eye might
easily discover what was done on each side. This _Haly_ is a _Dalmatian_
by Birth, a Man of much Wit, and, which is strange in _Turkey_, very
courteous to Strangers. The Table, at which the _Bashaw_ and the
_Persian_ Embassador sate, was covered over with a Canopy, and the Dishes
were served up after this manner. There were one hundred Youths, which
attended, like Waiters, all of them alike habited. First of all, they
entered one by one, at a small distance from each other, till the Train
of them reached up to the Table where the Guests were sitting. They had
nothing at all in their Hands, that so they might not be hindered in
saluting the Guests, which was done in this manner; they laid their Hands
on their Thighs, and bowed their Heads downwards to the Ground; when
this Ceremony was perform’d, then he that stood next the Kitchen, took a
Dish and gave it to the next Page immediately before him; he handed it
to a Third, and he to a Fourth, and so from one to another till it came
to him who stood next the Table, and he delivered it to the Hands of the
Gentleman-Sewer, who plac’d it on the Table. And thus one hundred Dishes,
or more, were serv’d up to the Table in excellent Order, without any
Noise at all; and, when that was done, those Waiters, or Pages, saluted
the Guests a second time, and so returned in the same Order they came in;
only, of course, those that were last before went out first, and those
which were nearest the Table brought up the Rear. Thus the second Course
was also serv’d up; so that the _Turks_ are great Admirers of Orders,
even in the smallest matters, which we _Christians_ are apt to neglect,
even in things of greatest Moment. At some distant from the Ambassador
sate his Attendants with some _Turks_ of Quality with them.
Peace being thus made with the _Persians_, as I told you before, yet we
could get no good Terms of them at all, only we obtain’d an half year’s
Truce, till I could send to my Master, and know his Answer. I was sent to
be _Leiger_ Ambassador there; but, in regard there was no Peace settl’d
betwixt both Empires, the _Bashaws_ thought it adviseable for me to
return to my Master with Letters from _Solyman_ their Emperor; and I was
to return with an Answer from his Imperial Majesty, if he thought fit.
Hereupon I was again introduced into _Solyman_’s Presence, and had two
large embroider’d Veils, reaching down to my Ancles, clap’d upon me; they
were so heavy, that I could hardly stand under them. My Family also, that
attended me, were all clad with silk Garments of divers Colours; in this
Posture I stalked along, like _Agamemnon_, or some such piece of Gravity,
in a _Tragedy_; and so I took my leave of their Emperor, having first
receiv’d Letters from him to my Master, seal’d and wrap’d up in Cloth of
Gold, and the chief of my Attendants were also admitted to take their
Leaves; and thus, after we had taken our leaves of the _Bashaws_, I and
my Collegues departed from _Amasia_, _June_ the 2d. The Custom is, that
Ambassadors at their Departure, have a Dinner provided for them in the
_Divan_, (so they call the place where the _Bashaws_ sit to administer
Justice,) but this is done only to their Friends; that Compliment was
omitted to me, because Affairs were not yet in an amicable Posture
between them and us.
If you ask me, what manner of Man _Solyman_ was, I’ll tell you. He was
an ancient Man, his Countenance, and the Mien of his Body, were very
majestick, well becoming the Dignity which he bore; he was frugal and
temperate, even from his Youth, though he might have taken a greater
Liberty to himself by the Rules of their own Religion. In his younger
Days he was not given to Wine, nor to masculine Venery, which the
_Turks_ much delight in; to that his very Enemies could object nothing
against him on those Accounts, but that he was too uxurious, and his
over-indulgence to his Wife made him give way to the Death of his Son
_Mustapha_: Yet that Crime was vulgarly imputed to an Ascendent she
had over him, by reason of her Inchantments and Love-Portions. This is
certain, that, after he once took her for his lawful Wife, he never had
carnal Knowledge of any other Woman, though their Laws did not forbid
him. He is a very strict Observer of the _Mahumetan_ Religion, and is as
desirous to propagate that, as to enlarge the Bounds of his Empire.
He is now sixty years of Age; and, for a Man of his Years, he enjoys a
moderate proportion of Health, and yet his Countenance doth discover,
that he carries about him some hidden Disease, ’tis thought a Gangrene,
or Ulcer, in the Thigh; yet at solemn Audiences of Ambassadors, he hath
a _Fucus_ to paint his Cheeks with, that he may appear sound and healthy
to them, and thereupon be more dreaded by foreign Princes, their Masters.
Methought, I discovered some such thing at my Dismission; for his
Countenance was as sour when I left him, as it was at my first Audience.
Having thus taken my leave, I began my Journey in the Month of _June_,
and the Heat thereof was so excessive, that it cast me into a Fever. ’Tis
true, it was a remiss and gentle one, yet it came every Day; to which was
added an Hoarseness, and Defluction of Rheum from the Head, and it held
me till I came to _Constantinople_.
The _Persian_ Embassador left _Amasia_ the self-same Day that I did,
and we went both out of the City the same way; for, (as I told you
before) there is but one Passage into, or out of, that Town, it is so
shut in by the circumjacent and unpassable Hills: But the Way quickly
doth divide into two, one to the _East_, which the _Persians_ took; and
another to the _West_. which was our Road. In the open Fields about
the Town, we saw the _Turkish_ Camp pitch’d, with abundance of Tents.
I shall not entertain you with the Stages of my Return, they being
the same with those of my Journey thither, only we made a little more
Speed, and sometimes rode two Day’s Journey in one. In fine, we came to
_Constantinople_, _June_ the 2d. You must needs think I had a troublesome
Journey of it, having such a Companion with me, as a _Quotidian Ague_,
all the way; so that, when I came thither, I was almost nothing but Skin
and Bone: Yet, lean as I was, when I came to rest, and by the advice of
_Quaquelben_, my Physician, used warm Baths, I quickly recovered. One
thing I observed in the method of my Cure, that, when I came out of the
warm Bath, he would sprinkle me over with cold Water, which, though it
were troublesome to me at the present, yet I found that it did me much
good.
Whilst I staid at _Constantinople_, there was a certain Person, that came
from the _Turkish_ Camp in _Asia_, who told me a Story, which I shall
acquaint you with, because it shows that the _Asiaticks_ are not very
well pleased, either with the Religion, or the Government of the _Turks_.
’Twas this: _Solyman_, says he, as he was returning home, was forc’d to
lodge one Night in the House of a certain _Asiatick_, and when he went
away in the Morning, his Host brought a great deal of Perfume, and us’d a
great many Ceremonies, to cleanse and purge his House, as if it had been
polluted by such a Guest as _Solyman_; when _Solyman_ heard of it, he
caused the Man to be slain, and his House to be levelled with the Ground.
This Punishment the poor Man underwent for his Aversion to the _Turks_,
and his Propensity to favour the _Persians_.
I staid about fourteen Days at _Constantinople_ to refresh my self, and
then I entred on my Journey back again to _Vienna_: But I was entertain’d
with an inauspicious Omen, even a very sad Spectacle; just as I was
gone out of the Gates of _Constantinople_, I met whole Waggon-Loads of
Boys and Girls, which were brought out of _Hungary_ to _Constantinople_
to be sold; no Merchandize is more frequent amongst them than that.
For, as when we leave _Antwerp_, we meet with all sorts of merchantable
Commodities importing into the Town, so here, ever now and then, there
passed by us abundance of poor miserable _Christian_ Slaves, which were
going to be sold in the Markets to a perpetual Bondage. There was no
distinction of Age; Old and Young were driven in Herds, or Companies,
or else were tied in a long Chain, as we use to tail Horses when we
carry them to Fairs. When I beheld this woful sight, I could not forbear
weeping and bemoaning the unhappy State of poor _Christendom_. And if
that miserable Spectacle were not afflicting enough to a new Traveller,
take another bad and mortifying Occurrence: My Collegues had recommended
some of their Retinue to me, which were weary of living in _Turkey_, that
they might be of my Train, in returning to their own Country. I granted
their Request, and having travelled two Day’s Journey, I perceiv’d
one that was Chief among them, (called a _Vaivode_, from his Office,)
was carried sick in a Coach; one of his Feet being bare, without any
Stockings, he would not suffer it to be covered, for he had in it a
Plague-sore, which he found more easy to keep open. We were much troubled
at this sight, as fearing that infectious Disease would spread farther;
but the poor Man liv’d till we came to _Adrianople_, and there departed
this Life. Upon his Death another Mischief did succeed; as soon as the
Breath was out of his Body, the rest of the _Hungarians_ ran in greedily
to the Prey, one caught up his Stockings, another his Doublet, a third
his Shirt, a fourth his other Linnen; thus casting themselves, and us
too, into a great deal of Danger. Nor was there any way in the World to
hinder them.
’Tis true, my Physician, like an honest Man, ran in amongst them, and
intreated them, for God’s sake, to throw the Things away, because they
would infect us all; but they were deaf to his Advice. The Day after
we left _Adrianople_, those very Persons came to him, and complain’d
of a Pain in their Heads, with a dejection of their Spirits, and
a Listlessness both of Body and Mind, and desired his Advice; he,
suspecting the Symptoms of the Plague in the case, told them, they were
well enough serv’d, for not harkening to his Counsel; yet he would do
them what good he could, only, being on his Journey, he was unprovided
of proper Medicines. The same Day I walked abroad into the Field, as
I us’d to do, as soon as ever I came to my Inn, to see if I could
find any thing worthy of my Notice in those Countries, where I met
with an unknown Herb in the Meadow, which smelt like _Garlick_. After
I had pluck’d some Leaves of it, I gave them to my Physician to know
his Judgment; he looked wistly upon it, and told me, ’twas _Scordium_,
and lifting up his Hands to Heaven, he gave God thanks for sending us
so opportune a Remedy against the Plague; hereupon he gathers a great
quantity of it, and putting it into a large Pot, boiled it over the
Fire. Then he bid the _Hungarians_ take heart, and parted the Decoction
amongst them, prescribing the taking of it very hot, as they were going
to Bed, mix’d with some _Lemnian_ Earth, and _Diascordium_, and that they
should not sleep till they had fallen into a great Sweat. Observing his
Directions, the next Day after they were much better, and desired the
same Portion again, and when they had drunk it, they grew perfectly well.
And thus, by God’s Blessing, we avoided that Infection.
And yet, the residue of our Journey was not without Peril. After we had
passed the Country of the _Thracians_ and _Bulgarians_, which reaches
as far as _Nissa_, and came into the _Servians_ Country, reaching from
_Nissa_ to _Simandria_, where the _Rascians_ Country begins; we came at
last to _Belgrade_, the Weather being excessively hot and parching, for
’twas the hottest time of the _Dog-days_.
At _Belgrade_, upon one of our Fish-days, we were presented with
abundance of choice Fish, and amongst the rest, with large full-bodied
_Carps_, taken in the _Danube_, whose _Carps_ are very much commended: My
People did eat very greedily of them, and that was either the cause, or
the occasion, which cast many of them into a Fever; yet all that quantity
of Fish, which was enough to satisfy forty Men, cost but half a Dollar;
and the Truth is, other Things are as cheap. As for Hay, ’tis little
or nothing worth; the Meadows are so laden with it, that every Man may
take what he will, provided he pay for the Mowing and Carriage; which
made us admire the Wisdom of the old _Hungarians_, after they had passed
the _Save_, who chose so fertile a Country, as _Hungary_, to dwell in;
where there were all manner of Conveniences for Human Life. We passed
over a great Tract of Land, both beyond and on this side the _Save_, and
we found the Grass, Barley, Oats and Wheat, almost parch’d and withered
with Drought; but as soon as we entred _Hungary_, the Grass was so tall,
that a Coach, that went before, could hardly be seen by another that came
after; which is a great Argument of the goodness of the Soil.