_Jenysar_ to _Ackbyuck_, from _Ackbyuck_ to _Bazargyck_, from _Bazargyck_
to _Bosowick_, otherwise called _Cassumbasa_, seated in the narrowest
Streights of Mount _Olympus_; for almost all our Way from _Nice_
thither, lay through the Cliff of that Mountain. At _Nice_ we lodged in
a _Turkish_ Inn, or Hospital, and just against it was a Rock, standing
on high Ground, wherein there was a square deep Trench cut, and from the
Bottom thereof there issued out a Canal, that reached to the Highway.
That Trench or Ditch, the ancient Inhabitants of that Place used, in
the Winter Time, to fill with Snow; that so the melted Snow-Water
gently dropping down into the Road, by the fore-mentioned Canal, might
quench the Thirst of parched Travellers. Such Works as these the _Turks_
count _Eleemosynary_ ones; because they are for the publick Benefit and
Advantage of Mankind.
Not far from this Place, on the Right Hand, we saw a Town, called
_Otmanlick_, borrowing its Name, (as I conceive) from _Ottoman_, the
Founder of the _Ottoman_ Family, who lived there.
From those Streights we descended into an open Campaign; and when we came
thither, we lay the first Night in our Tents, whereby the Heat did not so
much incommode us, as otherwise it would have done; the Place was called
_Chiausada_. The most remarkable Things we saw here, was a subterraneous
House, that had no Light, but only what stole in at the Roof: We saw also
that Sort of _Goats_, of whose Hair, (or Fleece, if you had rather call
it so) they make the Shagreen or watered Stuff, called Camlet. If you
would know the Nature of that Creature, I shall not entertain you with a
Flam, but give you the true Description of it.
The Hair of this Creature is very fine, and extreamly white, and it hangs
down from their Bodies to the Ground. The Goat-herds do not sheer, but
kemb it off, and it is almost as fine as Silk. These _Goats_ are often
washed in the neighbouring Rivers, and feed upon the Grass growing there,
which is very tender and dry, and that certainly contributes much to the
Fineness of their Wool; for if they are removed to another Place, their
Fleece changes with their Pasture, and their Kids do so degenerate,
that one would hardly think them of the same Breed. The Thread that is
spun of that Hair or Wool, is carried, by the Women of that Country, to
_Ancyra_, a City of _Galatia_, where it is woven into Cloth and dy’d, as
I shall tell you anon.
Moreover the Sheep of those Countries have very fat and weighty Tails,
(their Sheep-Flocks consist hardly of any other.) The Tail of any one of
them weighs sometimes three or four Pound, and sometimes eight or ten;
yea, they grow so big in some old Sheep, that they are forc’d to lay them
upon a Plank, running on two little Wheels, that so they may draw them
after them, not being otherwise able to trail them along.
Perhaps you will think I tell you a Romance; but, take it on my Word, it
is a certain Truth. I grant, such bulky Tails may be of some Advantage,
because they are full of Fat; but the Flesh of the Sheep seemed more
harsh and rank to me, than our own Mutton. The Shepherds that tend them
lie Day and Night in the Fields, and carry their Wives and Children about
with them, in Waggons, which serve them instead of Houses; only sometimes
they erect small Tents to lie under. They wander far and near, sometimes
in the open Campaign, sometimes over Hills, sometimes over Dales, as the
Season of the Year, and the Necessity of Pasturage, doth require.
I saw also in those Countries, some Sort of Birds, unknown to us, and
such as I never saw before. Among the rest, there is a Kind of _Ducks_,
which gives a Sound like Trumpeters, or such as blow the Cornet; the
Noise they make is almost like the Sound of a Post-Boy’s Horn. It is a
Bird, which though it hath nothing wherewith to defend itself, yet is
very strong and daring.
The _Turks_ are verily persuaded, that the Devils are afraid of these
Birds. This is certain, they are so tenaciously sensible of their
Liberty, that tho’ they have been kept up tame in a Coop, for three Years
together, yet if they can but get an Opportunity to escape away, they fly
to their wonted Haunts, as preferring their natural Seats before their
confined Prisons, though they be cramm’d and fatten’d there.
We passed on from _Chiousada_ to _Karali_; from _Karali_ to _Hazdengri_;
from thence to _Mazotthoy_; from _Mazotthoy_ we passed over the
River _Sangar_, which runs into _Pontus_ out of _Phrygia_, and came
to _Mahathli_, from thence to _Zugli_, thence to _Chilancyck_; from
_Chilancyck_ to _Ialancich_; from thence to _Portughin_; and from
_Portughin_ we reached to _Ancyra_, called by the _Turks_, _Angur_. We
staid one whole Day at _Ancyra_, partly because the _Turks_ did not
hasten us; for, in regard the _Persian_ Embassador made an Halt, we
were desired to do so too, that we might make our Entrances, both at
one Time, into _Amasia_. I saw nothing remarkable in all the Villages
aforementioned, save that sometimes, among the _Turkish_ Sepulchres,
we happened to see some Pillars, or ancient Stones of curious Marble,
wherein there were several Remains of _Latin_ or _Greek_ Inscriptions,
but so defaced, that they could not be read; which Disappointment I
very much resented, for all my Delight was, as soon as I came to my Inn
at Night, to enquire after old Inscriptions, together with _Latin_ and
_Greek_ Coins; and sometimes for rare Kinds of Plants.
As for the Sepulchres, or Graves of the _Turks_, their Custom is, not to
fill them with Earth, but throw great Stones upon them for a Covering.
Would you know the Reason? ’tis Superstitious enough. The _Turks_
believe, that whenever the Devil accuses the Deceased, and calls upon
him to give an Account how he spent his Life; then his good Genius will
defend him, and this Stone is the Place upon which the Ghost must sit,
that he may plead his Cause with more Care; and it is so huge and bulky,
that Dogs, Wolves, or other ravenous Beasts, especially the _Hyænæ_, may
not injure his Corps as it lies in the Earth.
The _Hyæna_ is a Beast common in these Countries; she uses to dig up
Graves, and taking out the dead Bodies from thence, carries them to her
Den, near which you shall see a great Heap of Bones of Men, Horses,
and other Creatures. She is a little lower than a Wolf, and quite as
long; she hath a Skin like a Wolf, only her Hair is rougher and full
of great black Spots; her Head is contiguous to her _Spina dorsi_,
without any _vertebræ_ at all; so that, when she looks backward, she
must of necessity turn her whole Body: Instead of a Row of Teeth, she
hath but one continued Bone. The _Turks_ do ascribe great Vertue to this
Beast, in _Philtres_, as did the Antients: there were two of them at
_Constantinople_, when I was there; I cheapned them, but their Owners
were unwilling to sell them, because they kept them for the _Sultaness_,
who was thought, by Love-Portions, and Magic Art, to have engaged her
Husband’s Love to her. Here I cannot chuse but take Notice of a Mistake
in _Bellonius_, who thinks the _Hyæna_ to be the same Creature with that
we call the _Zibeth_ or _Musk-Cat_.
The _Turks_ have a Tradition, that the _Hyæna_, which they call
_Zirtlan_, understands what Men say one to another. The Antients
affirm’d, that they could also imitate Man’s Voice, and thereupon Hunters
catch them by this Wile. They find out her Den, which they may easily
do by the heap of Bones lying by it; and then one of them goes in with
a Rope, leaving the other End of the Rope in the Hands of his Fellows
without; and when he is creeping in, he cries with a loud Voice, _Joctur,
Joctur, Ucala!_ i. e. _She is not here, She is not here!_ or, _I cannot
find her!_ whereupon, the _Hyæna_, thinking she is not discovered, lies
close, and he ties one end of the Rope about her Leg; and then he goes
forth, still crying, _I cannot find her!_ but when he is escaped quite
out of the Hole, he cries out aloud, _She is within, She is within!_
which the _Hyæna_ hearing, and understanding the meaning of it, leaps
out, thinking to escape; but then they hold her back by the Rope, tied to
her Leg, and either kill her, or, if they use Care and Diligence, lake
her alive, for she is a fierce Creature, and defends herself desperately.
I found abundance of Old Coins all up and down this Country, especially
of the later Emperors, _viz._ the _Constantines_, the _Constantius_’s,
the _Justin_’s, the _Valens_’s, the _Valentine_’s, the _Numerian_’s, the
_Probus_’s, the _Tacitus_’s, and such like. In many Places the _Turks_
use them for Weight, _viz._ of a Drachm, or half a Drachm; and they call
it _Giaur Manguri_, i. e. the Money of the _Pagans_ or _Infidels_. The
like Coins I found in the neighbouring Cities of _Asia_, as at _Amysus_,
at _Synopis_, at _Cumana_, at _Amastris_, and _Amasia_ itself, whither we
were going. There was a Brasier of that City which grieved me very much;
for demanding of him, whether he had any Old Coins to sell? He answered
me, That a few Days ago, he had a large Room full of them, but had melted
them down to make Brass Kettles, as thinking them of little Value, and
fit for no other Use. When I heard this Story, it troubled me much to
lose so many choice Monuments of Antiquity; but I paid him back in his
own Coin, by telling; him, That I would have given him a hundred Guilders
for them; so that my Revenge was suited to his Injury; for I sent him
away as sorrowful, as he did me for losing the Coins.
As for Plants, I saw very few in my Journey in those Parts, which were
unknown to us in _Europe_. They were almost all of the same Kind;
only they were more or less flourishing, according to the Richness or
Poverty of the Soil. The _Amomum_, which, _Dioscorides_ says, grows near
_Pontus_, I very diligently sought for, but in vain; so that I knew not
whether that Plant did not fail in that Country, or else was transplanted
into another.
This Town of _Ancyra_, was our 9th Stage from _Constantinople_. It is a
Town of _Galatia_, sometimes the Seat of the _Gauls_, called by _Pliny_,
_Tectosagum_; nor was it unknown to _Strabo_: Though perhaps the present
Town is but part of the old Town, called in the Canons, _Anguira_. Here
we saw a stately Superscription, and a Sampler of those Tables, wherein
the Atchievments of _Augustus_ were summarily comprehended. I caused
as much of it, as we could read, to be transcribed. It is cut in the
Marble Walls of that Structure, which heretofore was the Town-hall; but
is now demolished, so that one part of it is visible to those that enter
on the right Hand, and the other to those that enter upon the left.
The top Chapiters are almost entire; the Middle is full of Clefts, and
the lowermost Part of it is so battered with Clubs and Hatchets, that
it cannot be read; which Loss cannot be sufficiently lamented by all
Lovers of Learning; and so much the more, because the Commons of _Asia_,
dedicated this City to _Augustus_. Here also, we were Eye-witnesses of
the dying of that Cloth, I spake of before, made of Goats-wool, and how
they Camlet it, or give it its Water-colour; ’tis done thus. They pour
Water upon it, and by means of a Cloth-press, cause it to receive that
Colour. That is counted the best, which is most variegated in every part;
and if, in any Piece, the Water-colours do not deeply and uniformly
appear, that Piece, though of the same Colour, and made of the same Wool,
is valued at some Gilders less than another, because it is not so deeply
tinctured. The better sort of _Turks_, in their old Age, are usually
clothed with this Sort of Cloth, and _Solyman_ himself used to wear
Vests of it; but Green is a Colour disused much by _Christians_; and the
rather, because the _Turks_ commend it upon a Superstituous Account, as
being worn by their Prophet _Mahomet_ in his older Days.
A black Colour is counted unfortunate, and is disliked by them; and, when
they see any Man so clad, they look on it as an ill _Omen_; so that when
any of ours did approach the _Bashaw’s_, in a black Habit, they look’d
a-squint on us, and made sad Complaints; and the Truth is, none of their
own appear in black, but either one that is desperately poor, or else so
overwhelm’d with some great Calamity, that he regards not what Cloaths
he wears. A Purple Colour is a creditable Colour with them; only it is
an Omen of much Bloodshed in Time of War: But the ordinary approved
Colours among them, are the _White_, the _Yellow_, the _Sea-Green_, the
_Violet-Colour_, and _Mouse-Colour_, &c.
The _Turks_ ascribe very much to _Augury_, and _Omens_, Good or Bad, so
that it hath been known, that some _Bashaws_ have been removed from their
Places and Offices, by reason of a Fall from their Horse; as if that were
an _Omen_ of some ill Luck, which is averted from the Publick, by falling
on the Head of that private and particular Person; who is thereupon
degraded.
From _Ancyra_, we came to a Village called _Balygazar_, and from thence
to _Zarekuct_; from _Zarekuct_ to _Zermeczii_, and to the Bank of the
River _Halys_: As we past through a Village called _Algii_, we saw, at
some Distance, the neighbouring Mountains of _Synopi_, which were red,
like Vermillion; and from which Red Lead is called _Synopi_.
This _Halys_ is the famous River which was heretofore the Boundary of
the two Kingdoms of the _Medes_ and _Lydians_; concerning which, there
was an ancient Oracle, That when _Crœsus_ pass’d it to make War on the
_Persians_, he should overthrow a great Empire, which fell out to be his
Own; whereas he thought it would have been the _Persians_. Near the Bank
of this River, there was a Wood, which seemed to us, to bear an unknown
Shrub; but when we drew near, we found it to be _Liquorice_, and with the
Juice of its Root, we refreshed our selves abundantly.
Near that River, we met with a Countryman, and asking him, by an
Interpreter, Whether that River did abound with Fish? And how they used
to catch them? He answered, That there were Fishes enough; but no Body
could catch them. When he saw we wondred at his Answer, he proceeded:
For, _says he_, if a Man strive to take them up in his Hands, away
presently they swim, and will not stay to be catched. This Answer was the
less surprizing to me, because, when we had lighted upon some unknown
Birds, and demanded of the Country-men, _how we might take them?_ One
or other of them told us, That they could not be taken; for if any Body
endeavoured to lay Hands on them, they would fly away.
But one of my Collegues, _Francis Hay_, having some Nets with him, caused
them to be cast for the catching of Fish; we took a great Draught of
them, and especially the _Silurus_, or _Sheathfish_, which are common in
the _Danow_. Besides, there is in that River, good Store of Sea-Crabs,
or else, a Sort of Fish very like them. Whereupon, the _Turks_, who saw
our Fishing, wondered at the Industry and Ingenuity of _Christians_, who
would catch Fish at that Rate. Hereupon, perhaps, you will say, What,
are there no Fishermen in _Turkey_? I grant there are; but very few of
them live in those Parts. And, I remember, in another Place, when the
_Turks_ saw us turn the Stream out of its Course to catch Gudgeons at the
Bottom, they laughed much at us. _What_, said they, _do you catch such
small guddling Fish? what are they good for?_ This Ninny-Hammer did not
understand, that a great many of those Fishes would make a dainty Dish,
enough to suffice many Guests. But the _Turks_ are so parsimonious, that
they don’t study their Bellies at all; give them but Bread and Garlic, or
an Onion, with a Sort of _Bonniclabber_, or sour Milk, known in _Galen_’s
Time, by the Name of _Syllabub_, but called by them, _Ingurthe_; they
feed like Farmers, and desire nothing more.
They make this Drink thus; they dilute this Milk with cold Water, and
then cram Bread into it. This they use in the hottest Weather, and when
they are more athirst; and we our selves found great Benefit by it, in
our greatest Droughts. It is a Repast very grateful to the Palate and
Stomach, and of admirable Vertue in quenching the most vehement Thirst:
There is abundance of it ready made for Sale in all the _Turkish_ Inns,
or _Caravasera’s_, as well as all other Sorts of Soop. As for hot Meat,
or Flesh, the _Turks_ don’t much use them in their Travels; their usual
Dyet, on the Road, are _Syllabubs_, _Cheese_, _dry’d Plumbs_, _Pears_,
_Peaches_, _Quinces_, _Figs_, _Raisins_, and _Cornel-berries_; all these
are exposed to sale in great earthen Platters boiled in clean Water;
every one takes what he likes best. Those Fruits, with Bread, is his
Food; and the Water which remains, serves for Drink. Thus their Meat and
Drink stand them in very little; so that I dare say, one _Christian_
spends more Money, on his Belly, in one Day, than a _Turk_ doth in
twelve; yea, their most solemn Feasts consist of _Wafers_, _Cakes_, and
such-like Junkets, together with several Dishes of _Rice_, with some
_Mutton_, and _Pullet_; for _Capons_ are not yet known in _Turkey_; but
as for _Pheasants_, _Thrushes_, and Birds called _Figeaters_, they never
so much as heard of their Names. But, if _Honey_ and _Sugar_ be mix’d
with the Water, the Drink is like _Jove’s Nectar_ to them. One Sort of
their Liquors I had almost forgot, ’tis this. They take _Raisins of
the Sun_, and bruise, or grind them in a Mill, and then put them into
a wooden Vessel, pouring a certain Proportion of hot Water upon them.
This Mixture they stir about a little, and then cover the Vessel close,
and suffer it to ferment a Day or two; if it works well, then they add
Lees of Wine to quicken the Operation. When it first begins to ferment,
if you taste it, ’tis over-sweet, and that makes it more unpalatable;
but afterwards it acquires something of an Acid Taste, which, mix’d
with the Sweet, is very grateful to the Palate for about three or four
Days; especially if it be mixed with Snow, of which there is plenty at
_Constantinople_ at all times. This Drink they call _Arabsorbet_, i. e.
the _Arabian Potion_. It will not keep long, but grows sour in a very
little Time. ’Twill fly up in your Head, and make you reel as bad as
any Wine, if you drink too much of it; and therefore, the _Turks_, by
the rules of their Religion, are forbidden to drink it. For my Part, I
liked it very well; yea, that sort of Grapes was very acceptable and
refreshing; in many Places they keep them all Summer long. The way of
preserving them, they told me, was this: They take large Bunches of
Grapes ston’d (as the hot Sun quickly ripens them in those Countries);
these they put into a Wooden or Earthen Vessel, in the Bottom whereof,
they first lay a Line of groun’d Mustard-Seed; then they spread a Line
of Grapes upon it; thus with a Lay of Grapes, and a Lay of grinded
Mustard-Seed, they fill it up to the Top; and, when the Vessel is full,
then they pour in new _Must_, as much as will fill all the Interstice;
then they shut it close, and so let it stand till the hot Time of the
next Year, when Men stand most in need of Drink. Then these Vessels are
broach’d, and the Grapes, with its Liquor, are set to sale. The _Turks_
like the Liquor as well as the Grapes; but I did not so well like the
Taste of the Mustard-Seed, and, therefore, I caused the Grapes to be
washed, and then, when I was most thirsty, they gave me great Relief. I
hope you will give me leave to commend a Food to you, that did me so much
good, seeing the _Egyptians_ esteemed their Herbs and Plants, which were
contributory to their Health, as so many _Deities_. But ’tis Time for a
Wanderer to return back into the Way.
From the Bank of the River _Halys_, which the _Turks_ call _Aitoczu_, we
came to _Gonkurthoy_; from thence to _Choron_, and from thence to _Theke
Thioi_, where the _Turks_ have a stately Monastry for their _Priests_
and _Monks_, called _Dervises_. Those _Dervises_ told us a great Story
of a certain Man, called _Chederles_, of an huge Stature, and graveness
of Mind answerable thereto. They suppose it was the same with our St.
_George_, and ascribe the same Exploits to him; as the saving of a Virgin
by the Slaughter of a huge and terrible _Dragon_. To which they add many
Fables and Imaginations of idle Brains; as that he travelled over several
Countries far and near, and at last came to a River, whose Waters made
those that drank them immortal; but in what Part of the World this River
is, they cannot tell us; they say, moreover, that it lies somewhere in
a great Cloud, or Mist of Darkness, and that never a Man saw it since
_Chederles_. As for _Chederles_ himself, he was made Immortal, and so
was his Horse, by drinking the same Water, who now, both do invisibly
travel over the World, delighting in Wars, and appearing therein to the
most Valiant, or to those who implore his Aid, of what Religion soever
they be: Such ridiculous Fancies do they please themselves with! To which
we may add, other Things as absurd as those before-mentioned, That he
was one of the Friends and Companions of _Alexander the Great_. For, the
Truth is, the _Turks_ keep no just Account either of Times or Ages, but
makes a confused Hodge-podge of all History. When they have a Mind to it,
they scruple not to say, _That ~Job~ was Master of the Horse to King
~Solomon~, and that ~Alexander the Great~ was General of his Army_; with
such-like Stuff.
In that Monastry, or Mosque, there is a Fountain that bubbles forth
very clear and limpid Water; it is built about and cover’d with most
excellent Marble, and they ridiculously would have People believe, that
it had its Original from _Chederles_’s Horses, which he pissed in great
Plenty in that Place. They also told us many _Rodomontado_’s concerning
the Companions of _Chederles_, concerning his chief Groom, and also
concerning his Nephew by his Sister, all which were buried near at
hand, and their Sepulchres there to be seen; and when any Suppliants
come to pay their Devotions to them, they would have persuaded us, that
they receive great Relief thereby; yea, they superstitiously affirm,
That the Fragments of the Stones, and the very Earth itself, on which
_Chederles_’s Feet stood, when he staid for the Dragon, if drank in any
Liquor, are very good against Fevers, the Head-Ach, and the Diseases of
the Eyes. All the Country thereabout, is full of Dragons and Vipers,
so that, in the hot Season of the Year, they are so thick, basking
themselves in the Sun, that the Ways are almost unpassable for Travellers.
I had almost forgot to tell you, that, whereas, the _Greeks_ do usually
paint St. _George_ on Horseback in their Temples, with his Squire behind
him, holding out to him a Cup of Wine as to his Master, he being (as they
believe) their _Chederles_; they laugh heartily at that Spectacle.
At this Place, we were near our Journey’s End, for now we had but one
Stage more to _Amasia_; and that was _Baglison_; from thence we reached
_Amasia_, _April 7_, and thirty Days after, we left _Constantinople_. As
we were coming, some _Turks_ met us, to gratulate our Arrival, and to
introduce us with Honour.
_Amasia_ is, in a manner, the chief City of _Cappadocia_, where the
_Turkish_ Governor of that Province usually had his Residence, for the
Administration of Justice, and where he usually forms his Camp. But
that Town, ever since _Bajazet_’s Time, seemed to be very unlucky, and
of late, the miserable Case of _Mustapha_ hath confirmed it to be an
unfortunate Seat. _Strabo_ writes, that he was born there. It lies on the
Side of two opposite Hills, the River _Iris_ dividing the City of the
midst, running between them; so that from each Part you may look down
upon the River, as from the Seats or Stairs of a Theatre; and one Side of
it is conspicuous and open to the view of the other. It is so encompassed
with Hills, that there is but one way to it, either for Coach or Waggon.