perpetrated this wicked Fact, he stole out at a Back-door, and fled as
fast as he could. The Mother, soon after, beginning to smell out the
Fraud, knocks at the Door; when they thought fit they opened it, and
there she saw her Son sprawling on the Ground, his Breath being yet
hardly out of his Body. Here let me draw a Vail; for a Mother’s Affection
to a Son in such a lamentable Juncture, may be better conceived than
expressed. Upon this dismal Sight she was hurried back to _Prusa_,
where she tore her Hair, rent her Garments, filled the whole Town with
Howlings, Moans, &c. The _Prusian_ Ladies, with their Daughters and
Waiting-Maids, came in Multitudes to her, and were stark Mad to hear of
so great a Butchery; and running in that raving Manner out of the Gates,
all the Cry was, _Where’s the Eunuch? Where’s the Eunuch? Let’s have
him to tear him to pieces_: But he foreseeing what would happen, and
fearing, like another _Orpheus_, to be torn Peace-meal by those raging
Furies, had cunningly withdrawn himself.
But to return to my Purpose. As soon as I came to _Constantinople_,
Letters were sent to _Solyman_, then at _Amasia_, to acquaint him with my
Arrival; and, till his Answer was return’d, I had Leisure to take a View
of the City of _Constantinople_; and first, I had a Mind to visit the
Temple of St. _Sophia_, which I was not admitted to do, but by special
Favour; for the _Turks_ think that their Temples are prophaned, if a
_Christian_ do but put his Foot within them.
That Church is a magnificent Pile, and a worthy Structure to behold. It
hath a great Arch or Hemisphere in the Middle, which hath no Light but
only from the Sky: All the _Turkish Mosks_ are built after the Form of
this. Some say, that heretofore it was much larger, and contained many
Apartments, which were all destroyed by the _Turks_, and only the _Quire_
and _Nave_, in the Middle of it, standing.
As for the Situation of the City itself, it seemed to me, to be naturally
placed as fit to be the Mistress of the World; it stands in _Europe_,
and hath _Asia_ in view, and on its right, hath _Egypt_ and _Africa_;
which, though Countries not adjacent to it, yet by reason of frequent
Intercourse and Naval Commerce, they seem as it were, contiguous. On
its left Hand is the _Euxin Sea_, and the _Palus Mætis_, whose Banks
are inhabited round about by many Nations, and so many navigable Rivers
have their Influx into them, that there is nothing grows in any of the
Countries thereabout, fit for Man’s Use; but there is a great Conveniency
of transporting it by Sea to _Constantinople_.
On the one Side, it is wash’d with the _Propontis_; on the other, the
River makes an Haven, which _Strabo_ calls, _The Golden Horn_, from the
Similitude it hath to an Horn; on the other Side, it is joined to the
rest of the Continent, so that it almost resembles a Peninsule; and with
the continued back of a Promontory, it runs out into the Sea and a Bay,
which is made there by the River and the Sea. So that from the middle of
_Constantinople_, there is a most pleasant Prospect into the Sea, and
even to the Mount _Olympus_, in _Asia_, which bears a snowy Head all the
Year long. The Sea there, is wonderful full of Fish, which sometimes swim
down from the _Mæotis_ and the _Euxine_, through the _Bosphorus_ and
_Propontis_, into the _Ægæan_ and _Mediterranean Seas_, and sometimes
they swim from thence into the _Euxin_, according to the Nature of the
Fish; and that in Shoals so thick and numerous, that you may catch
them with your Hands. So that here is excellent fishing for _Mackrel_,
_Tunny_, _Cod_, _Porpois_ and _Sword-Fish_. But the _Greeks_ fish more
than the _Turks_, though these latter love Fish well enough; provided,
they be of the Number of those, which they count _clean_; as for others,
they had rather eat Poison than taste them, for a _Turk_ had rather his
Tongue or his Teeth were pluck’d out of his Head, than taste of any Thing
they think to be _unclean_, as a _Frog_, a _Snail_, or a _Tortoise_. And
herein, the _Greeks_ are every jot as Superstitious as they; of which I
will give you the Instance following.
I entertain’d in my Family, a Youth of the _Greek_ Religion; I employed
him as my Steward. The rest of my Servants could never persuade him to
eat any _Periwinkles_ or _Cockles_; but at last, they put a Trick upon
him; they caused them to be so high-season’d and disguis’d, that he,
mistaking them for another sort of Fish, fed upon them most heartily.
Whereupon, my People set up a Laughter, and threw down the Shells before
him, where by he perceiv’d himself to be cozen’d: Whereupon, ’tis
incredible to relate how much he was troubled. He went presently to his
Chamber, and there fell a Vomiting, Weeping, and Afflicting himself most
grievously, without any Intermission; insomuch, that two Months Sallary
was not sufficient to expiate this Offence; for that’s the Guise of
_Greek_ Priests, according to the kind and greatness of the Offence, they
lay a pecuniary Mulct upon those who come to _Confess_, and they never
_Absolve_ them till they pay it down to a Penny.
In the furthest Point of that Promontory which I mentioned before, stands
the Palace, or _Seraglio_, of the _Turkish_ Emperors: To me, it did not
seem very magnificent, either for Work or Workmanship (for you must know,
that as yet, I had not made an Entrance into it.) Under the Palace, in a
low Ground, and as it were, upon the Sea-shore, are the Gardens of the
_Grand Seignior_, where the greatest Part of _Old Bysantium_ is thought
to have stood.
I hope you do not expect to be informed by me, why the _Chalcedonians_,
who built a City over-against _Byzantium_ (the Ruins whereof are yet
to be seen) were Sirnam’d _The Blind_; nor shall I tell you the Nature
of that Sea, which always runs downward with a vast Stream, but never
recoils with any Tide; nor will I spend Time to speak of those _Hautgis_
which were brought to _Constantinople_ from the _Palus Mæotis_, such
as the _Italians_ call _Moronella’s Botargues_ and _Caviare_; the
Description of all these Particulars would swell my Epistle to too great
a Bulk, and besides, it would be needless; for both the _Antients_, and
also _Modern_ Writers, have given Information of those Particulars at
large.
To return then to the Site of _Constantinople_. There is no Place in the
World more pleasantly seated to the Eye, nor more convenient for Trade.
But, let me tell you, the Buildings therein (as in all other _Turkish_
Cities) are not magnificent, nor are their Streets stately or large;
nay, in _Constantinople_, they are so narrow, that they much eclipse the
Beauty of the Place. Yet there are in it some valuable Relicks of old
Monuments to be seen; but not so many as a Man would imagine, considering
how many _Constantine_ brought thither from _Rome_. It is not my Purpose
to insist upon each of these Particulars; yet, a Word or two of the
principal ones.
In the _Area_ of the old _Hippodrome_, there are two Serpents cut in
Brass; as also, a mighty _Obelisk_. Moreover, _Constantinople_ doth
gratifie us with the Sight of two memorable Pillars; _One_ over-against
the _Caravaserai_, where I lodged, and the _Other_ in the _Forum_, called
by the _Turks_, _Aurat-basar_, i. e. _The Womens Court_, wherein, from
Bottom to Top, is engraven the History of a certain Expedition of one
_Arcadius_, who built it, and whose Statue, for a long time, stood on
the Top of it. And yet it may rather be called a _Stair-Case_, than a
_Pillar_, because it goes winding up like a Pair of Stairs. I caused
the Shape of this Pillar to be drawn, which I have by me. But the other
Pillar, over-against the House the _German_ Ambassadors used to lodge
in, the whole Structure, besides the Basis and the Chapiter, consists
of eight solid Marble or Red _Porphyry_ Stones, so curiously joined
together, that they seem but one continued Stone. For, where the Stones
are jointed one into another, upon that Commissure, there is wrought a
circular Garland of Lawrels round about the Pillar, which hides the
jointing, so that they which look upon it from the Ground, perceive no
jointing at all. That Pillar hath been so often shaken by Earthquakes,
and so battered by Fires happening near it, that it is cleft in many
Places, and they are forced to bind it about with Iron Hoops, that it may
not fall to pieces.
They say, That the Statue of _Apollo_ once stood upon that Pillar, and
that afterwards the Statues of _Constantine_, and of _Theodosius_ the
Elder, were erected there; but they are all thrown down, either by the
Force of the Winds, or by Earthquakes.
The _Greeks_ tell this Story concerning the _Obelisk_, in the
_Hippodrome_, which I mentioned before, _viz._
That it fell from its Basis, and lay for many Ages upon the Ground; but
in the Time of the later Emperors, there was an Architect found, who
undertook to raise it up to its Place; but he demanded a vast Reward for
his Pains. After the Price was agreed on, he prepared abundance of Ropes,
Pullies, and other Instruments, and by those means, he lifted up that
vast Stone, within one Inch of the Place where it was to stand; but his
present _Apparatus_ being able to raise it no higher, the People, who in
great Numbers were his Spectators, were of Opinion, that all his former
Cost and Pains were lost, and he must begin anew to try to do the Feat
some other way, to his vast Expence and Charge. The Artist himself was
not discouraged; but being skilful in _Mechanick Philosophy_, he caused
abundance of Water to be brought up to him, which, for many Hours, he
cast upon the Ropes, to which the _Obelisk_ hung; and those Ropes, being
often wet and dry, shrunk a little, and by that means, lifted up the
Weight to its designed Station, to the great Admiration and Applause of
the Vulgar.
At _Constantinople_ I saw several Sorts of wild Beasts, such as _Lynxes_,
_Cat-a-Mountains_, _Panthers_, _Leopards_, and _Lyons_; but they were
so gentle and tame, that I saw one of the Keepers pull a _Sheep_ out of
a _Lyon_’s Mouth, so that he only moistened his Jaws with the Blood,
without devouring it. I saw also a young _Elephant_, so wanton, that he
would dance, and play at Ball. Sure you cannot chuse but laugh, when I
tell you of an _Elephant_’s dancing and playing at Ball; but if I should
say no more, why may you not believe me as well as _Seneca_, who tells
us of one that could dance upon the Rope? Or as _Pliny_, who speaks
of another that understood _Greek_? But that you may not think me an
egregious Forger, give me leave to explain myself: When this _Elephant_
was bid to dance, he did so caper or quaver with his whole Body, and
interchangeably move his Feet, that he seemed to represent a kind of a
Jig; and as for playing at Ball, he very prettily took up the Ball in his
Trunk, and sent it packing therewith, as we do with the Palm of the Hand.
Among those wild Beasts, there had been a _Camelopardalis_, but she died
a little before I came to _Constantinople_; however, I caused her Bones,
which had been buried in the Earth, to be digged up, that I might inspect
the Make of this Creature. It is an Animal a great deal taller in the
Forepart than in the Hinder; and, for that Reason, it is unfit to carry
a Man, or any other Burden. It hath an Head and a Neck like a _Camel_,
but a spotted Skin like a _Leopard_, and therefore it is called by a Name
derived from both, (_i. e._) _Camelopardalis_.
It might have been imputed as a Piece of great Neglect in me, not to
have visited the _Euxine_, especially as I had an Opportunity of sailing
thither; seeing the Ancients used to account it as great a Piece of
Curiosity to see _Pontus_, as to visit _Corinth_. Thither, therefore, I
sailed with a prosperous Gale, and had the Privilege to be admitted into
some of the Pleasure-Houses of the _Grand Seignior_.
In the Valves of one of them, I beheld the famous Fight of _Selimus_ with
_Ishmael_ King of the _Persians_, excellently described in Checker-Work.
I had also the View of many of the Orchards and Groves of the _Turkish_
Emperor, which were seated in most pleasant Vallies. This I may say
of them, That they ow’d little to Art, but almost all to Nature; so
that I could not chuse but entertain such _Epiphonema’s_ as these in
my Thoughts, O most pleasant Houses for Nymphs! O choise Seats for the
Muses! O Retirements fit for the Learned! To deal plainly with you (as
I told you before) they seemed to me, as it were, sensibly to bewail
their present Posture, and to cry aloud to _Christians_ for their better
Cultivation; and not they only, but much more _Constantinople_ itself,
yea, and all _Greece_ too; which being, heretofore, the most flourishing
Country in the World, is now wofully enslaved by _Barbarians_. Formerly
it was the Mother and Nurse of all good Arts and liberal Sciences, but
now, alas! it seems to call for that Culture and Humanity which once it
delivered down to us; and, by Way of Requital, claims the Redemption of
our common Religion from that _Scythian Barbarism_ under which it groans;
and call it may long enough, for (with Grief may we speak it) _Christian_
Princes, now a-days, are otherwise employed; so that the _Turks_ do
not more domineer over the poor _Greeks_, than Vices, such as Luxury,
Gluttony, Sloth, Lust, Pride, _&c._ do over _Christians_, which so clog,
enervate, and depress our Minds, that we can hardly look Heaven-ward, or
aspire to any Thing that is truly Great and Excellent.
Methinks, Duty and Piety should have been sufficient Motives to us to
help our afflicted Brethren; but if we had been proof against those
Incentives, so that neither brave nor praise-worthy Actions could unthaw
our frozen Courage; yet Profit and Advantage, which are now the great
Bias of the World, might have stirred us up to recover such opulent and
commodious Countries from Infidels, and to possess them ourselves: But,
on the contrary, we plow the Ocean, even as far as the _Indies_, and the
very _Antipodes_, because there we get rich Prey and Spoil at a cheap
Rate, even without Bloodshed, by imposing on the simple and uncrafty
_Indians_. ’Tis true, we pretend the Conversion of the _Heathens_, but,
if we go to the Root of the Matter, (to our Shame be it spoken) ’tis
their Gold, not their Godliness, is the Gain we seek for. Our Ancestors
carried it at quite another Rate, who did not, like trading Merchants,
seek after those Places where there was most Wealth, but where there
was greater Opportunity for noble and virtuous Atchievements; so that
it was not Profit, but Honour, which put them upon hazardous and remote
Expeditions: And when they came home, they were more laden with Glory
than with Plunder. I speak this in your Ear; for others, perhaps, may
think it a peculiar thing in me, to detract from the Manners of the
present Age. But, let them think what they will, I see that the Arrow
is drawn to the Head to destroy us; and I am afraid, that we, who would
not fight for Glory, shall be forced to do it to save our Lives. But to
return to _Pontus_.
The _Turks_ call the _Euxine_, _Caradenis_, (i. e.) _The Black Sea_.
It falls down thro’ narrow Streights into the _Thracian Bosphorus_,
where its Waters are tossed up and down by many Vortices, Turnings,
and Windings, occasioned by several Promontories jutting out into it;
and thus, in one Day’s Passage, it descends to _Constantinople_, and
from thence, almost by the like strait Passage, it breaks out into the
_Propontis_. In the Middle of the Bay, where it makes its Influx into the
_Bosphorus_, there is a Rock with an erected Pillar, in the Basis whereof
is writ the Name of a certain _Roman_, called _Octavian_, (if my Memory
fail not) in _Latin_ Letters.
On the _European_ Shore there is a Tower, called _Pharos_, where they
hang out Lights in the Night, to guide Sailors by. Not far from this
Place, a River falls into the Sea, in the Channel whereof there are
found Stones, little inferior to _Onyxes_ or _Sardonyxes_, and, if they
be polished, are as shining as they. A few Miles from that Bay, which I
lately spoke of, we may see those Streights over which _Darius_ wasted
his Army against the _European Scythians_: And about the Middle, between
the two Mouths of the _Bosphorus_, there are two Castles, one of which is
in _Europe_, and the other on the opposite Shore, in _Asia_. This latter
was possessed by the _Turks_ long before _Mahomet_ took _Constantinople_.
The other was built by him some few Years after he became Master of
that City. The _Turks_ make use of it, at this Day, as a Prison for the
nobler Sort of their Captives. _Lazarus_, a Commander, or Prince of
the _Epitots_ not long ago was taken Prisoner by the _Turks_, together
with some _Spaniards_ at _Castlenovo_, and committed to this Tower;
from whence making his Escape, and being retaken, he was impal’d, (_i.
e._) put to a most cruel Death, by having a Pole thrust thro’ his Body,
from his Fundament to his very Neck; yet he indured it with incredible
Patience.
Perhaps you expect that I should here give you an Account of those
floating Islands, called _Cyaneæ_ or _Symplegades_. But, to deal freely
with you, those few Hours that I spent on the _Pontus_, I saw no such
Islands at all; whether they had been carried to any other Place, I know
not: If you desire to have a more particular Information concerning
them, you may consult _Peter Gyllius_, who was an exact Enquirer into
such Curiosities; for my Part, I shall record only what I saw, or know
to be true. Yet I think it is not fit for me to conceal a Mistake that
_Polybius_ is guilty of; for he proposes many Arguments, to prove that,
in Tract of Time, the _Euxine_ will be choaked up with Sand and other
Trash, brought in by the _Danow_, the _Borysthenes_, and other great
Rivers falling into it, that it would be made unfit for Navigation;
whereas, the contrary appeared to me; for that Sea is every jot as
navigable, at this Day, as it was of old in the Days of _Polybius_. And
though he seemed to have some Grounds for his Opinion, that to him were
irrefragable, yet Time hath shewed them to be weak. The like Observation
holds in other Cases; for, of old, who would not believe the Ancients,
who affirmed, upon seemingly imaginable Grounds, That the Torrid Zone
was inhabitable? whereas, later Discoveries have fully convinced us,
That those hot Countries are as well inhabited as any other Part of the
Terrestial Globe; nay, when the Sun is at the highest with them, and
darts down its Rays perpendicularly upon them; even at that very Time
the Ardency of the Heat is so tempered and cooled by continued Rains,
that those Countries are rendered very fit for human Habitations. But to
return.
After the _Grand Seignior_ was informed, by Letters, of my Arrival (as
I said before) he sent to the Governor of _Constantinople_, intimating
his Pleasure, that he should send us to him into _Asia_, as far as
the City of _Amasia_, or (as it is writ on ancient Coins) _Amazeia_,
where he then was. Upon this Advice we prepared all Things for our
Journey; and, with our Guides, on the 9th of _March_ we were wafted
over into _Natolia_, (for so the _Turks_ call _Asia_ at this Day.)
That Day we went no farther than _Scutari_, a Town on the _Asiatick_
Shore, opposite to Old _Byzantium_; where, or very little above it, the
noble City of _Chalcedon_ was formerly thought to stand. The _Turks_
were of Opinion, That when our Horses, Coaches, Baggage, and Train,
together with ourselves, were all got over the _Hellespont_, ’twas
enough for one Day’s Journey; especially considering, that if we had
forgot any of the necessary Accoutrements for our Journey, or had left
them behind at _Constantinople_, (as it sometimes happened) we might
bethink ourselves before we went any farther, and fetch them over. The
next Day we continued our Journey from _Scutari_, over fragrant Fields,
full of odoriferous Plants, and especially _Stæchas’s_, a sweet smelling
Spike. There we saw a vast Number of _Tortoises_, stalking over all the
Field, without any Fear at all. We had certainly seized upon a great
many of them, as a Prey grateful to our Palates, had it not been for our
_Turkish_ Guides, whom we were afraid to disoblige; for if they had seen
any of them brought to our Table, much more, if they had touched them,
they would have thought themselves so defiled, that I know not how many
Washings would not have cleansed their imagined Pollution. For, as I told
you before, the _Turks_, and the _Greeks_ too, are so superstitious, that
they abhor ever to touch of that Animal; so that, it being no hurtful
Creature, and no body endeavouring to catch them, the whole Country
abounds with _Tortoises_. I kept one of them by me a great while, which
had two Heads, and it would have lived much longer, if I had been as
careful of it as I might. That Day’s Journey brought us to a Village,
called _Cartaly_, which I mention, because I shall, for the future,
gratify you with the Knowledge of the several Stages of this Voyage. For
tho’ the Journey from _Vienna_ to _Constantinople_ hath been performed
by many, yet this from _Constantinople_ to _Amasia_, hath, as yet, been
undergone by no _Christian_ that I know of. From _Cartaly_ we came to
_Gabise_, a Town of _Bithynia_, which some think was anciently called
_Libyssa_, and is famous for the Sepulchre of _Hannibal_, who was there
interred. From thence there is a most pleasant Prospect into the Sea, and
into the Bay of _Nicomedia_; here also grow _Cyprus_ Trees of a wonderful
Bulk and Tallness.
Our fourth Day’s Journey from _Constantinople_ brought us to _Nicomedia_,
a City, anciently of great Note; but we saw nothing remarkable in it, but
the Ruins and Rubbish of old Walls, with some broken Pieces of Pillars
with their Chapiters, which were all the Remainders of its ancient
Splendor, except one Castle on an Hill, which was somewhat more entire.
A little before we came to this Place, some Workmen, that were digging
under Ground, discovered a long Wall made with Marble, which (it may be)
was part of the ancient Palace of the Kings of _Bithynia_.
From _Nicomedia_, we passed over a Cliff or Ridge of Mount _Olympus_,
and came to a Village called _Kasockly_, and from thence to _Nice_; but
it was so late before we came thither, that the first Watch was set. Not
far from that Place, I heard a mighty Noise, as if it had been of Men
that jeer’d and mock’d us. I asked what was the Matter? Whether any of
the Mariners, rowing on the Lake _Ascanius_, (which was not far off) did
deride us, for travelling at that unusual Time of Night? I was answered,
No, but it was only the howling of certain Beasts, which the _Turks_ call
_Ciacals_, or _Jacals_. They are a Sort of Wolves, somewhat bigger than
Foxes, but less than common Wolves; yet as greedy and devouring as the
most ravenous Wolves or Foxes of all. They go in Flocks, and seldom or
never hurt either Man or Beast, but get their Food by Craft and Stealth,
more than by open Force. Thence it is, that the _Turks_ call subtle and
crafty Persons, especially the _Asiaticks_, by the Metaphorical Name
of _Ciacals_. Their Manner is to enter into the Tents or Houses of the
_Turks_, in the Night-Time, and what they can catch that is eatable,
that they eat; and if they find nothing else to devour, then they fall
a gnawing of all Kinds of Leather Things, as Shoes, Boots, Girdles,
Scabbards of Swords, and the like; and they are as cunning as they are
thievish; but in this they are very ridiculous, that they discover
themselves by the Noise they make. For whilst they are most busy in a
House, devouring their Prey, if any one of their Herd, that stays without
Doors, chance to howl, they all set up a howling likewise; and thus,
forgetting where they are, they raise up the People of the House, who
leap out of their Beds, and cudgel them soundly.
All the next Day we staid at _Nice_; I believe my Lodging was in the same
House where the Council of _Nice_ was heretofore celebrated. As for the
Town itself, it is seated on the Bank of the Lake _Ascanius_. The Walls
of it are almost entire, so are the Gates, which are but four, and may
all may be seen from the Middle of the Market-Place; in each of them
there were old Inscriptions in _Latin_, which shew that the Town was
repaired by _Antoninus_: which of them I do not well remember; but sure
it must be by _Antoninus_ the Emperor. There are also some Remainders of
his Baths, and whilst the _Turks_ were digging out Stones from thence
to build Houses at _Constantinople_, they found the Statue of a Soldier
in his Armour, curiously wrought, and almost entire; but they quickly
battered it with their Hammers, even in our View; and when we shewed
ourselves displeased at their rude Violence, they paid us with a Jeer,
_What_, said the Labourers, _will you bow down to worship this Statue, as
you ~Christians~ used to do to yours?_