perceive Tahaiti before us, like a light cloud in the clear horizon. All
that we had read of its loveliness now rose to our remembrance,
heightened by the vivid colouring of the imagination; but seventy miles
were yet to be traversed ere we could tread the land of expectation, and
a very slow progress, occasioned by a flagging wind, tried our patience.
We continued, however, to advance, and the light cloud became larger,
and denser, and higher, soon assuming the appearance of three separate
hills belonging to different islands; the highest point, eight thousand
feet above the level of the sea, is the summit of a mountain,
distinguished from the others by its conical form.
We next recognized the large rugged masses of rock of the interior,
which have a most romantic appearance. The country gradually unfolded
all its charms; the luxuriant growth of the trees, even to the
mountains' tops, reminded us of the scenery of Brazil, and the
picturesque valleys, with their thickets of bread-fruit, orange, and
cocoa-trees, their cultivated fields, and plantations of bananas, became
at length distinctly visible.
It was not till the 14th that we reached the Cape, called by Cook Cape
Venus, because he there observed the transit of this planet over the
sun; and from its beauty, it deserves to be named after the charming
goddess herself. It is a low narrow tongue of land, running out
northward from the island, thickly shadowed by cocoa-trees, and forming,
by its curve, the harbour of Matarai, not a very secure one, but
generally preferred by sailors on account of the celebrity bestowed on
it by Cook.
When we were still a few miles distant from Cape Venus, we fired a gun
to draw attention to the flag hoisted at the fore-mast, as a signal for
a pilot. We soon saw a European boat steering towards us; it brought us
a pilot, who, to our great surprise, addressed us in the Russian
language, having recognized our flag as belonging to that nation: he was
an Englishman of the name of Williams, who had first been a sailor on
board a merchant ship, afterwards entered the service of the Russian
American Company on the north-west coast of America, and was at length
settled for life in Tahaiti. His wife was a native of the island; he was
the father of a family, and carried on the occupation of a pilot in the
Bay of Matarai. Wanderers of this kind often settle in the islands of
the South Sea; but while they bring with them many vices peculiar to the
lower classes in civilized life, are generally too ignorant and rough to
produce any favourable influence on the natives. They are not all liable
to this censure; and of about twenty English and Americans whom I found
so naturalized in Tahaiti, some assuredly do not deserve it.
Having a pilot on board, we steered direct for the extreme point of Cape
Venus, where floated the national standard of Tahaiti. This flag
displays a white star in a field of red, and, like many of the present
arrangements, owes its origin to the Missionaries, who do not indeed
bear the title of Kings of the island, but exercise an unlimited
influence over the minds of the natives. We passed safely by the
shallows lying before the Matawai Bay, (upon which Captain Wallis
grounded, and which he called, after his ship, the Dolphin,) round the
headland, to the western side, and at last anchored opposite the village
of Matawai, at a distance of two hundred fathoms from the shore, in a
black clay bottom of fifteen fathoms depth.
Our frigate, as it entered the Bay, attracted to the beach a crowd of
curious gazers, who greeted our arrival with a shout of joy. Numerous
boats laden with all kinds of fruits, provisions, and other articles of
merchandize, immediately put off from the shore, and we were soon
surrounded by gay and noisy Tahaitians. As soon as the sails were taken
in, I gave them permission to come on board, of which they eagerly
availed themselves. With their wares on their backs, they climbed
merrily up the sides of the ship, and the deck was soon transformed
into a busy market, where all was frolic and fun; the goods were offered
with a jest, and the bargains concluded with laughter. In a short time
each Tahaitian had selected a Russian associate, to whom, with a
fraternal embrace, he tendered his wish to exchange names,--a ceremony
which implied a pledge to surrender to the new friend whatever he might
wish for.
It is probable that these sudden attachments were not quite
disinterested; a view of procuring a better barter for their goods might
have had some effect in producing the zeal with which they were struck
up; but they certainly had every appearance of sincerity and cordiality,
and in less than an hour these friendly allies were seen walking in
couples, arm in arm, about the deck, as though they had been acquainted
for years.
Our clothing appeared to be prized by the Tahaitians above every thing
we offered them, and the possession of any article of this kind set them
leaping, as if out of their wits, for joy. On this day we saw no
females; and when we were afterwards occasionally visited by the women,
they always behaved with the greatest propriety.
When the sun declined, our new acquaintances left us to return to their
homes, satisfied with their bargains, and delighted with the presents
they had received, and without having stolen any thing, although above a
hundred of them had been on board at once.
I had sent a message to the Missionary Wilson, by an officer who now
returned, bringing for answer an assurance that the Missionary would
with pleasure do all in his power to assist us in procuring our
supplies; a promise he faithfully kept.
On the following morning we were greeted by the sun from a cloudless
sky, with a most superb illumination of the country opposite to his
rising. His rays glittering on the mountain-tops before they reached our
horizon, gradually enlivened the variegated green that clothed their
sides down to the vales, till the King of Day burst upon our sight in
all his splendour, arraying the luxuriant landscape of the shore in
still more enchanting beauty. Among the thickets of fruit-trees were
seen the dwellings of the happy inhabitants of this great
pleasure-ground, built of bamboos, and covered with large leaves,
standing each in its little garden; but, to our great astonishment, the
stillness of death reigned among them; and even when the sun stood high
in the heavens, no one was to be seen.
The warm friendships formed but yesterday seemed already to have cooled;
we were quite forgotten. At length we obtained from the boat, sent off
to us at break of day with provisions, an explanation of this enigma.
The inhabitants of Tahaiti were celebrating the Sunday, on which account
they did not leave their houses, where they lay on their bellies reading
the Bible and howling aloud; laying aside every species of occupation,
they devoted, as they said, the whole day to prayer. According to our
reckoning, the day was Saturday. This difference proceeded from the
first Missionaries having reached Tahaiti from the west by the way of
New Holland, while we had come eastward by Cape Horn.
I resolved to go ashore and pay a visit to Mr. Wilson, that I might
procure, through his means, a convenient place for our astronomical
observations. We landed at the point of the Cape, because the shade of a
thick palm grove there offered us immediate protection. No one received
us on the strand; no human being, not even a dog, was visible. The very
birds seemed here to celebrate the Sunday by silence, unless, indeed, it
was somewhat too hot for singing. A little brook, meandering among
shrubs and flowers, alone took the liberty of mingling its murmurs with
the devotions of the Tahaitians. I sauntered along a narrow trodden path
under the shade of palms, bananas, orange, and lemon-trees, inhaling
their fragrance, and delighting in the luxuriance of nature. Though
beautiful as this country is, it does not equal Brazil in the variety of
its productions, and in the numbers of its humming-birds and
butterflies. The loud prayer of the Tahaitian Christians reached my
ears, as I approached their habitations. All the doors were closed, and
not even the children allowed to enjoy the beauty of the morning.
The small but pleasant house of the Missionary, built after the
European fashion, stands in the midst of a kitchen-garden richly
provided with all kinds of European vegetables.
Mr. Wilson gave me a cordial welcome to his neat and simple dwelling,
and presented to me his wife, an Englishwoman, and two children, besides
two Englishmen, whom he named as Messrs. Bennet and Tyrman. They
belonged to the London Missionary Society, and had left England three
years before to visit the Missionary Settlements in the South Sea.
The chief Missionary, to whom the others are subordinate, is named Nott,
and lives in the capital where the King resides. He is now far advanced
in life. He has made himself master of the Tahaitian language, and was
the first who ever wrote it. He has translated the Bible, a Prayer Book,
and some Hymns; and has printed a Grammar of the language, under the
title of, "A Grammar of the Tahaitian Dialect of the Polynesian
Language. Tahaiti: printed at the Mission Press, Burder's Point, 1823."
He also first instructed the Tahaitians in reading and writing, which
acquirements are now tolerably common among them. I am sorry not to
have known Mr. Nott better, and therefore not to have it in my power to
judge of the man as well as the Missionary. His character stands very
high. Wilson, also an old man, has now lived twenty years in Tahaiti; he
was originally a common sailor, but has zealously devoted himself to
theology, and is honest and good-natured. Including Nott and Wilson,
there are six Missionaries in Tahaiti alone, and only four among all the
other Society Islands. Each Missionary possesses a piece of land,
cultivated by the natives, which produces him in superfluity all that he
requires, and he also receives an annual allowance of fifty pounds from
the London Missionary Society. This Society has also sent Missionaries
to Tongatabu, one of the Friendly Islands, and to Nukashiva, lately made
known to us by Krusenstern.
Besides these English Missionaries, some native Tahaitians, after
receiving a suitable education, are sent to spread Christianity among
the islands of the dangerous Archipelago. In Russia, a careful education
and diligent study at schools and universities is necessary to qualify
any one to be a teacher of religion. The London Missionary Society is
more easily satisfied; a half savage, confused by the dogmas of an
uneducated sailor, is, according to them, perfectly fitted for the
sacred office.
It was now church-time, and Wilson requested me to be present at the
service,--an invitation which I accepted with pleasure. A broad straight
path, planted with the cocoa and lofty bread-fruit tree, leads from his
house, about a ten minutes' walk, to the place of worship. The
church-yard, with its black wooden crosses, impresses the mind with a
feeling of solemnity: the church itself is a handsome building, about
twenty fathoms long and ten broad, constructed of light wood-work
adapted to the climate, and whitened on the outside, which gives it a
pretty effect among the green shades that surround it. The numerous
large windows remain unglazed, because a free admission of the air is
here desirable in all seasons; the roof, made of ingeniously plaited
reeds, and covered with immense leaves, is a sufficient defence against
the heaviest rain; there is neither steeple nor clock. The interior of
the church is one large hall, the walls of which are neatly kept; it is
filled with a number of benches, so placed, in long rows, that the
occupants can have a convenient view of the pulpit in the centre. When
we entered, the church was full even to crowding, the men seated on one
side, and the women on the other; they almost all had psalm-books lying
before them; the most profound stillness reigned in the assembly. Near
the pulpit, which Wilson mounted, was placed a bench for Messrs. Bennet
and Tyrman, on which I also took my seat.
Notwithstanding the seriousness and devotion apparent among the
Tahaitians, it is almost impossible for an European, seeing them for the
first time in their Sunday attire, to refrain from laughter. The high
value which they set on clothes of our manufacture has already been
remarked; they are more proud of possessing them than are our ladies of
diamonds and Persian shawls, or our gentlemen of stars and orders. As
they know nothing of our fashions, they pay no sort of attention to the
cut, and even age and wear do not much diminish their estimation of
their attire; a ripped-out seam, or a hole, is no drawback in the
elegance of the article. These clothes, which are brought to Tahaiti by
merchant-ships, are purchased at a rag-market, and sold here at an
enormous profit. The Tahaitian therefore, finding a complete suit of
clothes very expensive, contents himself with a single garment; whoever
can obtain an English military coat, or even a plain one, goes about
with the rest of his body naked, except the universally-worn girdle; the
happy owner of a waistcoat or a pair of trowsers, thinks his wardrobe
amply furnished. Some have nothing more than a shirt, and others, as
much oppressed by the heat under a heavy cloth mantle as they would be
in a Russian bath, are far too vain of their finery to lay it aside.
Shoes, boots, or stockings, are rarely met with, and the coats, mostly
too tight and too short, make the oddest appearance imaginable; many of
their wearers can scarcely move their arms, and are forced to stretch
them out like the sails of a windmill, while their elbows, curious to
see the world, peep through slits in the seams. Let any one imagine such
an assembly, perfectly satisfied of the propriety of their costume, and
wearing, to complete the comic effect, a most ultra-serious expression
of countenance, and he will easily believe that it was impossible for
me to be very devout in their presence. The attire of the females,
though not quite so absurd, was by no means picturesque; some wore
white, or striped men's shirts, which did not conceal their knees, and
others were wrapped in sheets. Their hair was cut quite close to the
roots, according to a fashion introduced by the Missionaries, and their
heads covered by little European chip hats of a most tasteless form, and
decorated with ribbons and flowers, made in Tahaiti. But the most
valuable article of dress was a coloured gown, an indubitable sign of
the possessor's opulence, and the object of her unbounded vanity.
When Wilson first mounted the pulpit, he bent his head forward, and
concealing his face with an open Bible, prayed in silence; the whole
congregation immediately imitated him, using their Psalm-books instead
of Bibles. After this, the appointed psalm was sung to a most
incongruous tune, every voice being exerted to its utmost pitch, in
absolute defiance of harmony. Wilson then read some chapters from the
Bible, the congregation kneeling twice during the intervals; the
greater part of them appeared very attentive, and the most decorous
silence reigned, which was, however, occasionally interrupted by the
chattering and tittering of some young girls seated behind me. I
observed that some threatening looks directed towards them by Messrs.
Bennet and Tyrman, seemed to silence them for a moment, but their
youthful spirits soon overcoming their fears, the whispering and
giggling recommenced, and glances were cast at the white stranger, which
seemed to intimate no unwillingness to commence a closer acquaintance.
After the conclusion of the sermon, another psalm was sung, and the
service concluded. The display of costume, as the congregation strolled
homewards in groups, with the greatest self-complacency, through the
beautiful broad avenue, their psalm-books under their arms, was still
more strikingly ludicrous than in church. I had by this time, however,
lost all inclination to laugh.
I had assisted at a great religious assembly of the new, devoted, so
called Christian Tahaitians; and the comparison naturally arising in my
mind, between what I had seen and the descriptions of the early
travellers, had introduced reflections which became less and less
agreeable, in proportion as I acquired a greater insight into the recent
history of the island.
After many fruitless efforts, some English Missionaries succeeded at
length, in the year 1797, in introducing what they called Christianity
into Tahaiti, and even in gaining over to their doctrine the King Tajo,
who then governed the whole island in peace and tranquillity. This
conversion was a spark thrown into a powder magazine, and was followed
by a fearful explosion. The Marais were suddenly destroyed by order of
the King--every memorial of the former worship defaced--the new religion
forcibly established, and whoever would not adopt it, put to death. With
the zeal for making proselytes, the rage of tigers took possession of a
people once so gentle. Streams of blood flowed--whole races were
exterminated; many resolutely met the death they preferred to the
renunciation of their ancient faith. Some few escaped by flight to the
recesses of the lofty mountains, where they still live in seclusion,
faithful to the gods of their ancestors. Schiller's
exclamation--"_Furchtbar ist der Mensch in seinem wahn_,"[3] was
dreadfully confirmed.
Ambition associated itself, as usual, to fanaticism. King Tajo, not
content with seeing in the remains of his people none but professors of
the new faith, resolved on making conquests that he might force it on
the other Society Islands. He had already succeeded with most of them,
when a young warrior, Pomareh, King of the little island of Tabua, took
the field against him. What he wanted in numbers was supplied by his
unexampled valour, and his superiority in the art of war.
He subdued one island after another, and at last Tahaiti itself, and
having captured its King, offered the zealot murderer of his innocent
subjects as a sacrifice to their manes. In the end, he subjected to his
sceptre all the islands which had hitherto remained independent, and as
sovereign of the whole Archipelago, took up his residence in Tahaiti. He
left to the conquered Kings the government of their islands, requiring
from them a yearly tribute in pigs and fruits; and to consolidate his
dominion by family connexion, he married a daughter of the most powerful
of these royal vassals, her three sisters, according to an ancient
custom, becoming at the same time his wives.
Peace was thus restored to Tahaiti and the whole Archipelago. Pomareh
was a wise and mild ruler. He left his subjects undisturbed in their new
religion, although he did not profess it himself. The Missionaries, now
limited to their powers of persuasion, found means to retain their
disciples in their adopted faith, so that the refugees of the mountains
preferred remaining in their retreats, to finding themselves objects of
hatred and contempt amongst their old friends and relations. At length
Pomareh himself, with his whole family, yielded to the arguments of the
Missionary Nott, allowed himself to be baptized, and died as a
Christian, in the prime of life, in consequence of an immoderate
indulgence in the spirituous liquors which he had obtained from the
ships of his new brethren.
An unconquerable passion for ardent spirits had acquired an entire
dominion over him, although he was so well aware of their deleterious
effects, as to have often exclaimed, when under the influence of
intoxication, "O King, to-day could thy fat swine govern better than
thou canst!" This weakness was, however, so much over-balanced by his
many good qualities, his well-tried valour, his inflexible justice, his
constant mildness and generosity, that he possessed to the last the
universal esteem and love of his subjects, by whom his loss was still
deplored when we arrived at Tahaiti, almost two years after his death,
although he had reigned as an unlimited monarch, and they now possessed
a constitution resembling, or rather aping, that of England. This had
been introduced by the influence of the Missionaries, whose power over
the minds of the Tahaitians is unbounded; they had persuaded the people
to adopt it during the minority of Pomareh's son, a child of four years
old at the period of our visit; but from the general regret with which
the days of the absolute King were remembered, it did not appear to have
given much satisfaction.
According to this Constitution, Tahaiti is divided into nineteen
districts, and the neighbouring island of Eimeo, having no especial
viceroy, into eight. Every district has its governor and its judge,
whose business is to settle disputes and maintain order. The first is
appointed by the Parliament, and the latter elected by the people. These
nominations are for one year only--but may be renewed at the expiration
of the term. Important affairs are submitted to the Parliament, which,
consisting of deputies from all the provinces, possesses the
legislative, as the King does the executive power.
The Tahaitians, accustomed to a blind reverence for the Missionaries,
consult them in all their undertakings, and by means of the Constitution
have so confirmed their power, both as priests and rulers, that it would
be difficult for governor, judge, or member of parliament, to retain
their offices after having incurred their displeasure. They have shown
their artful policy in the choice of a guardian for the young King. It
has fallen on the tributary King of the island of Balabola,
distinguished by his giant height of seven feet, and by his enormous
corpulence, which almost prevents his moving, but by no mental
qualification.
This mountain of flesh, that at a distance might rather be taken for
some unknown monster than for a man, naturally finds it more convenient
to his indolence to be merely the mouthpiece of the Missionaries, and
that their dominion may also be secured for the future, Mr. Nott has the
sole charge of the young monarch's education, and will not fail to bring
him up in the habit of implicit obedience.
The actual document securing the Constitution had not yet appeared; the
Missionaries were still employed on it, well convinced, that whatever
they should insert would be received without opposition. When complete,
it will probably issue in due form from their Printing-Office, and will
be interesting, if some future traveller should bring us the
translation.
Firm as the foundation of the Missionaries' power appeared, one little
cloud was visible in the political firmament. A son of the vanquished
King Tajo yet existed, and was not entirely without adherents. If by any
chance he should succeed in gaining possession of the throne, he might
remember that these men had assisted in excluding him from it. For this
reason, they resolved to confirm the title of the young Pomareh, by a
solemn coronation; and to strengthen his party, all the tributary
princes of the whole Archipelago were invited to be present at the
ceremony.
The preparations for this solemnity had long been carrying on, and as it
was now soon to take place, nearly all the kings, with numerous suites,
had arrived in Tahaiti. Among them was the powerful ruler of Ulietea,
the grandfather of the infant sovereign; he had brought with him several
hundred warriors, many of them armed with muskets.
We wished much to have been present at this first coronation of a King
of the Society Islands; but as our time would not permit it, I obtained
from Mr. Tyrman an account of the order and plan of the ceremony.