stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of
adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.
The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
preserves it and lengthens its life.
(Type B Stilt.)
Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
strapped to the leg just above the knee.
The uprights are 1" × 1-3/8" × 36", or longer if desired.
Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
the same size as in Type A.
A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.
Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.
A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
oneself.
[Illustration: Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).]
CHILD'S CART.
Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is
of simple construction.
Make the side pieces first 1/2" × 6" × 10". On one long edge measure in
2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6" and the
end piece 1/2" × 6" × 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.
The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6-1/2".
[Illustration: _Plate 42._
_CHILD'S CART_]
The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/8".
This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
from the ends and half way between the sides.
Two small blocks are made 1/2" × 1" × 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.
Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.
The handle measures 7/8" × 1" × 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
angle of 30°, as shown.
A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
under side of the handle.
The wheels are 7/8" × 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
carefully cut to the line.
The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
flat-head screws.
Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.
Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
glue and 1" brads.
A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.
CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.
This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.
Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43
gives the assembly drawing.
[Illustration: _Plate 43._
_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_]
The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2"
× 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
indicated.
The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".
Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
sides.
The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
center of the lower edge to attach brace block.
Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
Countersink these four holes.
Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
top edge, as shown.
Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and
cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".
Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.
Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
a No. 6 screw.
Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
screws are used at these points.
Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
flat-head screws, eight in all.
Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
interference.
The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.
[Illustration: _Plate 44._
_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_]
A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
the axle to insure the screws going in properly.
The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the
opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
with glue and one 7/8" brad.
Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.
The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4".
A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".
Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.
The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.
On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
screw.
Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.
A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.
This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
the block.
Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
handle.
CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
(Type A.)
The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and
quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
found on the store shelves.
First, make the handles 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 30". Chamfer the handles, as
shown, for four inches from one end.
The two sides are made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
file.
The end is 3/8" × 5-1/2" × 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" × 11" ×
14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
the front end.
Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
with beeswax.
Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
the grip end 13" apart outside.
While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.
The two legs are made 7/8" × 1" × 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.
[Illustration: Wheelbarrows.]
A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
leg to hold it firmly in place.
[Illustration: _Plate 45._
_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)]
[Illustration: _Plate 46._
_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)]
A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.
The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
diameter.
Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.
Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.
All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
sandpaper before applying the second.
CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
(Type B.)
This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally
strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
This type has removable sideboards.
The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
it will not be necessary to give the directions here.
After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
ready for assembling.
Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
wheel supports and the tops of the legs.
The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" × 4", bent over the
braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
round-head screws.
First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
bottom board and flush with the side edges.
Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.
[Illustration: _Plate 47._
_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_]
Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
screws from the upper side of the bottom board.
Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
the same manner.
Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.
Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
round-head screws.
It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.
The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
painted two coats of red before being placed in position.
CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.
This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.
The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
be used, if preferred.
The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
necessary holes shown in the drawing.
The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
body of the clown on the handle.
[Illustration: _Plate 48._
_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
[Illustration: _Plate 49._
_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and
shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.
A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.
A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.
[Illustration: Clown Running Wheel.]
[Illustration: Cock Horse.]
The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
using India ink.
The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get
the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
dowel in both the clown and the handle.
COCK HORSE.
The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.
The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
long.
The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the
method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.
Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
The stick is made 7/8" × 1" × 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".
Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.
Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" × 7/8" × 7-1/2", are to hold the
wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
next two 3/4" apart.
On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.
A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
2-1/2" × 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.
The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
the 1/4" × 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
it.
Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.
Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.
Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
outline with a drafting pen and India ink.
A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
taking care that it projects equally on both sides.
[Illustration: _Plate 50._
_COCK HORSE_]
ROCKING ROOSTER.
This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
safe. (Plate 51.)
The seat board is made 7/8" × 5" × 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.
Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.
The two rockers are made 7/8" × 4-1/2" × 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.
The rooster's head is made 7/8" × 6" × 10-1/4" and the outline is
sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.
Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.
A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.
[Illustration: The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.]
Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.
The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
file.
Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
screws enter.
The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
7/8" × 1" × 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.
Sand all pieces thoroughly.
[Illustration: _Plate 51._
_ROCKING ROOSTER_]
Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
centered well and placed two inches from the front end.
The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
are just an inch apart.
Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
red and the feathers on the neck, green.
After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
the other circle about the eye is painted black.
If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
sets off the features.
The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
the priming coat.
KIDDIE KAR.
It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.
The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
chiseled to the correct shape.
[Illustration: Kiddie Kars.]
The top edge of the seat should be rounded.
The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" × 5" × 6-1/2".
Finish to the line.
The brace is cut 7/8" × 5" × 9-1/2".
Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
dimensions shown on the drawing.
A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.
Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.
The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.