obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.
[Illustration: _Plate 33._
_BEAN BAG GAME_]
A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.
The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small
block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.
After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
if necessary.
Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
well.
The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than
the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.
DART BOARD GAME.
This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.
The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass,
pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".
The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored
with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
shown.
The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a
quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.
[Illustration: The Dart Board in Use.]
The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as
indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
screws.
This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
× 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.
After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
colors applied to the circles.
First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
the circles again with ink.
Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
that the small outside circles are minus numbers.
Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.
Darts.
The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.
[Illustration: _Plate 34._
_DART GAME BOARD_]
At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.
About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.
The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
lose their score.
One thousand points should constitute a game.
The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
file.
WIND MILL.
This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.
[Illustration: Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.]
The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half
inch stock, two being 3-1/2" × 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" × 4-3/4". The two
larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" × 3-1/2" and a
line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
shown.
[Illustration: _Plate 35._
_WIND MILL_]
The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" × 1-1/4" ×
10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
the screw which holds in place the round piece A.
The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" × 2-1/2". A
hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
hole is 3/8" deep.
The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
glue.
The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" × 4" × 5". The small piece, on which the
vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.
A piece is now cut 3/4" × 7/8" × 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
be filed smooth and round.
A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
mill turning easily.
The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" × 1" × 5-1/2".
Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.
A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
screw to turn easily.
A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.
All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.
A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.
WIND MILL.
(Type B.)
This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy
toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
in the sand.
The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which
is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.
The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" ×
2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.
Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
are flush with the surface of the top piece.
Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
the places where the cross pieces go.
Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
the floor when setting upright.
The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a
halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.
Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
which holds piece B in place.
[Illustration: _Plate 36._
_WIND MILL_ (_type B_)]
Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
round-head screw.
Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
around.
The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming
the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.
The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.
A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.
The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
under the screw head and between B and E.
Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.
A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
mill to the desired location.
SAND OR WATER MILL.
This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is
made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
corners, are 1/2" × 1" × 1". The two uprights are 3/4" × 7/8" × 8-1/4",
and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-1/2".
[Illustration: _Plate 37._
_SAND OR WATER MILL_]
Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.
Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.
The top piece is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 5-1/2" with the two front corners
slightly rounded, as shown.
A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.
A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.
A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.
Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
these.
Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
paint.
Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.
While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
which the wire axle runs is 3/4" × 3/4" × 2-1/4". The four blades are
1/4" × 2-1/4" × 2-3/4".
After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
of yellow.
When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.
The toy is now ready to operate.
DOLL'S CRADLE.
A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or
seventeen inches in length.
The two sides should be first made 1/2" × 6-1/2" × 20". These are later
beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
and foot board.
[Illustration: _Plate 38._
_DOLL'S CRADLE_]
Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.
The head board is next made 1/2" × 7" × 8-3/4".
Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
corners are rounded, as shown.
The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" × 5" ×
8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
alike, except in height.
The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
brads.
See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.
The base is next made 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
× 2-3/4" × 13-1/2".
It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
pressure.
[Illustration: Two Types of Doll Cradles.]
Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.
Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
edges.
Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
each side and come flush with the ends.
All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
assembling.
The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.
COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.
The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the
one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
difficult to make.
Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
footboard.
The headboard is cut 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 10-7/8".
Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.
Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
footboard to see if they compare.
Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" × 9-1/4" × 20".
Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
wide.
From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
drawn.
The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
slope of the head board.
Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
These are 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
board.
The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" × 4-3/4" ×
7-3/4".
The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.
[Illustration: _Plate 39._
_COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE_]
The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
and overhangs equally on both sides.
Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.
Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
edges of the base.
The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
directions for painting in the first part of the book.
DOLL'S BED.
The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
16" to 18" in length.
The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" × 7/8" ×
12" and the two short ones 7/8" × 7/8" × 9-1/4".
These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
1/16", as shown.
The two side rails are next made 3/8" × 2-1/2" × 20-1/2".
The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
are made 1/2" × 7/8" × 8-3/4".
Seven slats are next made 3/8" × 1-1/4" × 8".
Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
rest, are now made 3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4".
Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" ×
1-3/4" × 8", and one 3/8" × 3" × 8". Three similar slats are made for
the foot board, two 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 5-1/4" and one 3/8" × 3" × 5-1/4".
Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.
These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
beeswax.
In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
hammer.
Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
rails (3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
rails into these to help secure them in place.
[Illustration: _Plate 40._
_DOLL'S BED_]
The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
for a bearing.
All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.
Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
instructions for painting.
There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
the bedding.
TWO TYPES OF STILTS.
(Type A Stilt.)
Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.
In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath
the arm pits.
The upright pieces should be made 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 5', or as long as the
boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
nicely.
[Illustration: Two Kinds of Stilts.]
Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
12 flat-head screw.
[Illustration: _Plate 41._
_STILTS_]
The foot rests are made 1" × 3-1/2" × 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
drawing.