the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.
Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.
A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
steering rod.
Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
board, to prevent wear.
In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
from the bottom of the steering gear.
This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.
The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
1/4" × 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.
The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.
The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.
All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
remainder.
Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.
[Illustration: _Plate 52._
_KIDDIE KAR_]
KIDDIE KOASTER.
This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
and is suited for children of eight or over.
If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.
If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.
The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
Plate 53.
The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" ×
2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
bottom end chamfered, as shown.
A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.
A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.
[Illustration: The Kiddie Koaster.]
These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
1/4" bit should be used to bore these.
The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
draw to the opposite corner.
[Illustration: _Plate 53._
_KIDDIE KOASTER_]
Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.
Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.
Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
front.
The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".
Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
on the drawing.
On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
the rear support on a line.
This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.
Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.
The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.
The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
with upholstery tacks to match.
The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
clearly shown.
The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.
These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.
A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm,
to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
long and costs fourteen cents.
If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
substituted, two being used.
A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
screw holes in the hinges.
Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
two coats.
A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
SKI SKOOTER.
The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.
The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten
inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.
The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.
The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are
cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.
[Illustration: The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.]
The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly
rounded.
Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" ×
7/8" × 5".
[Illustration: _Plate 54._
_SKI SKOOTER_]
[Illustration: _Plate 55._
_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_]
Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends
are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
directly under the seat.
Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.
The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
between coats.
The seat can be upholstered if desired.
METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.
Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
allow them to remain about five hours.
Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
flat on the front edges of the other steps.
Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
bent in the same manner.
Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.
SKI SKIPPERS.
The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.
[Illustration: The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.]
The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)
The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.
[Illustration: _Plate 56._
_SKI SKIPPER_]
Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.
Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
the point where they curve upward.
This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.
The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
using the method shown in Plate 55.
The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the
single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".
The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
the edges.
The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch
is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".
The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On
the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
indicated. Round these upper corners.
Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.
It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.
Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.
Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
receive a 3/8" rope.
It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
splitting the block.
A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
should be applied.
DOLL SLEIGH.
While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a
doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
be suitable for a small child.
First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
them 9" wide by 26" long.
On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.
[Illustration: The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby
brother or sister.]
Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".
These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.
The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge
measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
right-hand upper corner.
From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the
upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.
The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end
1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.
Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.
The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".
The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.
Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
screws.
Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold
the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
body of sleigh at places most convenient.
Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.
If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
iron.
Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.
[Illustration: _Plate 57._
_DOLL'S SLEIGH_]
If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
coat.
CHILD'S TABLE.
This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.
The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up
but little room.
The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.
The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" ×
24".
These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.
The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
screws.
[Illustration: Children's Table and Chairs.]
The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.
The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" ×
1-3/8" × 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
1-1/2" round-head screws.
[Illustration: _Plate 58._
_CHILD'S TABLE_]
All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
and then finished with No. 0.
The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
be finished in enamel.
If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
final coat of enamel applied.
Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
if desired.
CHILD'S CHAIR.
Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
Plate 58.
The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" × 9-5/8". The lower rail is
notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
deep.
The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.
While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.
These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 8-1/4".
The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.
Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
the drawing.
A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
the seat, is made 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
The seat is made 7/8" × 10" × 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.
Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
treated as described for the table.
[Illustration: _Plate 59._
_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)]
INDEX
Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15
Bean Bag Game, 72-4
Bench Hook, 22-4
Camel, 38
Child's Cart, 93-5;
Chair, 130-1;
Dump Wagon, 95-9;
Snow Shovel, 46-7;
Step Ladder, 59-63;
Table, 128-30;
Wash Bench, 57-9;
Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5
Clown Running Wheel, 105-9
Cock Horse, 109-10
Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7;
Cradle, 87-9;
Table, 64-6
Coping Saw Work, 26-7
Darts, 75-7
Dart Board Game, 74-6
Dippy Duck, 40-1
Doll's Bed, 89-91;
Clothes Rack, 55-7;
Cradle, 84-7;
Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5;
Sleigh, 125-8;
Table with Drawer, 62-4
Dowel Sticks, 27
Duck, 30
Elephant, 33
Equipment, 13-4
Finish and Color, 15-7
Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72
Goat, 36
Goose, 31
History of Toy-Making, 11-3
Kiddie Kar, 113-15;
Koaster, 116-19
Lamb, 35
Laying Out Work, 14
Merrimac, 44-5
Method of Bending Runners, 121-2;
of Enlarging Figures, 39-40;
of Jointing Wood, 18-20
Monitor, 42-3
Pelican, 29
Periscope, 47-8
Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8
Rabbit, 34
Rhinoceros, 32
Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9
Rocking Rooster, 111-13
Rooster, 37
Sand or Water Mill, 82-4
Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6
Ski Skippers, 122-5
Ski Skooter, 119-22
Staining, 17-8
Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2;
for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20;
for Table Use, 22
Transferring a Design, 14-5
Two Types of Stilts, 91-3
Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2
Transcriber's Note.
The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext.
A few minor typographical errors were amended.
"heighth" changed to "height".
"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg"
Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
punctuation and this was systematised.