screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
screws and the cleat.
The cleat is 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.
These are countersunk.
The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" × 1-1/8"
× 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
attached 3" from the end.
Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" × 1-1/8" ×
4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
longer legs.
A cleat 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds
the board rigid.
All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
being assembled.
No further finish is necessary.
DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
(Size C.)
The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
types. (Plate 24.)
This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.
The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
radius.
These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.
The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.
The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 27-7/8", and
the other two 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 29".
One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
the drawing.
Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.
[Illustration: _Plate 24._
_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size C_)]
Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
5/8" from the edges.
On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
from the rounded ends.
The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
cleat is 1" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.
The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
3-1/2" from the ends.
Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
the other set of legs.
A cleat 1-1/8" × 1-3/8" × 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
legs in position.
The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
(Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
collapsing.
All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
before being assembled.
No further finish is necessary.
DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.
This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
in assembling. (Plate 25.)
[Illustration: Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.]
The four legs are cut 3/8" × 3/4" × 13" and each end is rounded by first
striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.
Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.
[Illustration: _Plate 25._
_DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK_]
Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" × 3/4" × 6" and two
3/8" × 3/4" × 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
as shown in Plate 25.
These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.
The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.
The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.
Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
points, with 3/4" brads.
Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
just where the brads are to be placed.
No further finish is necessary.
CHILD'S WASH BENCH.
This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 18". These slats have
screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
Two braces are made 3/4" × 1/4" × 8". These are to support the slats.
One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
receive and support the dowel rod.
The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" × 1" × 12-3/4". One-half inch from
one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.
[Illustration: _Plate 26._
_CHILD'S WASH BENCH_]
The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" × 3/4" × 13". A center
lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
screws.
Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
other 14" long.
These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.
All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
No other finish is necessary.
CHILD'S STEP LADDER.
This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)
The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be
noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
them in a miter-box.
The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the
two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
to the sides and ends of the legs.
Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
to split the wood.
The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges
slightly rounded.
Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)
Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
stick on which the rear leg swings.
[Illustration: _Plate 27._
_CHILD'S STEP LADDER_]
While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
splitting.
The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
cut 8" in length.
The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
legs, and this requires considerable care.
The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.
Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
loosely.
Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
leg.
Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.
If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.
End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.
If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.
The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These
are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
countersunk.
Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.
Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
[Illustration: _Plate 28._
_DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER_]
The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
ladder is assembled.
A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.
A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.
DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.
While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
accompanying drawing has proven very popular.
The four legs are first made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 12". Measure down 3" from
one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
the opposite ends, as shown.
The two side rails are made 1/2" × 2-7/8" × 6-1/2". The two front rails
above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" × 1/2" × 12".
On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.
Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.
The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
bored.
The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
glued together, and reinforced with dowels.
The finished dimensions are 3/8" × 12" × 19".
Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.)
Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.
Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.
All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
several hours to insure a tight fit.
If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
table.
The drawer front is 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 12". The sides are 1/4" × 1-7/8" ×
11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.
Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
made by hand, and placed as indicated.
As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
may be left unfinished.
COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.
This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very
artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.
The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
book.
The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" × 11" × 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
method of joining wood on page 18.)
The four uprights are made 1" × 1" × 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
5/8" × 1" × 8".
The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
from their edges.
Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1-1/4", to be attached to
the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.
[Illustration: _Plate 29._
_COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE_]
Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
assembling, and are to hold the top in place.
Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
notch. These holes are also countersunk.
The long lower brace is made 5/16" × 2-1/2" × 12". When assembling, this
piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
and 1/2" brads.
Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
0.
If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
desired.
COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.
This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
(Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.
The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.
A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
duplicates.
The back is next made, 3/8" × 5-1/8" × 10-3/4".
The seat is made 3/8" × 4-1/2" × 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
measures 3/8" × 3-1/2" × 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.
Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.
Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and
painting.
[Illustration: _Plate 30._
_COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR_]
RING-THE-HOOK GAME.
This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)
The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
5/8" × 11" × 12".
The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
carefully to the line with a chisel and file.
A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.
The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
be applied over this.
If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
after the final coat is dry.
Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.
The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
constitute a set.
The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.
The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
rings.
A score of one hundred should constitute a game.
FIVE POST RING TOSS.
Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.
The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)
The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
this causing a loss of five points.
[Illustration: _Plate 31._
_RING THE HOOK GAME_]
The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
above the posts.
[Illustration: The Ring Toss.]
The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
with white friction tape.
The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" × 15" × 20". The center of
each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
chamfer around the upper edge.
Post A is made 1" × 1" × 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" × 1" × 8-1/4";
post D, 1" × 1" × 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" × 1" × 6-3/4". All of these
posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.
It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
and 3/4" long.
All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.
[Illustration: _Plate 32._
_FIVE POST RING-TOSS_]
The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
then the second coat applied.
BEAN BAG GAME.
This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
bags.
The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate
33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.
A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" ×
20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.
[Illustration: Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.]