TOY CRAFT
TOY CRAFT
LEON H. BAXTER
Director of Manual Training, Public Schools
ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.
Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction
[Illustration]
THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
Copyright 1922
The Bruce Publishing Company
Printed in the United States of America
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
the machine-made article.
Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.
To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."
MABEL E. TURNER,
Field Representative for Junior Service,
New England Division, American Red Cross.
* * * * *
One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
instructor in the grades.
After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
derived.
I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
help in the solution of their problems with boys.
STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,
Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.
PREFACE
Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.
Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
self-denial or self-earned money.
The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.
The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.
What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"
When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
doing it all for them.
The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
and imagination.
LEON H. BAXTER.
St. Johnsbury, Vt.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
History of Toy-Making 11-3
Equipment 13-4
Laying Out Work 14
Transferring a Design 14-5
Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability 15
Finish and Color 15-7
Staining 17-8
Method of Jointing Wood 18-20
Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work 20
Support to be Held in Vise 20-2
Supports for Table Use 22
The Bench Hook 22-4
Simple Tool Sharpening 24-6
Coping Saw Work 26-7
Dowel Sticks 27
Picture Puzzle Construction 27-8
Pelican 29
Duck 30
Goose 31
Rhinoceros 32
Elephant 33
Rabbit 34
Lamb 35
Goat 36
Rooster 37
Camel 38
Method of Enlarging Figures 39-40
Dippy Duck 40-1
Monitor 42-3
Merrimac 44-5
Child's Snow Shovel 46-7
The Periscope 47-8
Doll's Ironing Board (Size A) 49-51
Doll's Ironing Board (Size B) 51-3
Doll's Ironing Board (Size C) 53-5
Doll's Clothes Rack 55-7
Child's Wash Bench 57-9
Child's Step Ladder 59-63
Doll's Table with Drawer 62-4
Colonial Doll's Table 64-6
Colonial Doll's Chair 66-7
Ring-The-Hook Game 68-9
Five Post Ring Toss 68-72
Bean Bag Game 72-4
Dart Board Game 74-6
Darts 75-7
Wind Mill 77-80
Wind Mill (Type B) 80-2
Sand or Water Mill 82-4
Doll's Cradle 84-7
Colonial Doll Cradle 87-9
Doll's Bed 89-91
Two Types of Stilts 91-3
Child's Cart 93-5
Child's Dump Wagon 95-9
Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A) 99-103
Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B) 102-5
Clown Running Wheel 105-9
Cock Horse 109-10
Rocking Rooster 111-13
Kiddie Kar 113-15
Kiddie Koaster 116-19
Ski Skooter 119-22
Method of Bending Runners 121-2
Ski Skippers 122-5
Doll Sleigh 125-8
Child's Table 128-30
Child's Chair 130-1
[Illustration: Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.]
[Illustration: A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.]
[Illustration: Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.]
[Illustration: Making Toys in the School Shop.]
TOY CRAFT
HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.
To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.
Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
early days.
These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
development as either food or medicine.
They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
retard their mental growth and development.
The Latin word =trochus= means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.
=Pupa=, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
were buried with them.
The Latin word =crepundia= meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
dolls, toy hatchets and swords.
The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.
The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
wood and bone.
The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in
Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
toys.
Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.
In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
extremely expensive, especially in the United States.
There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
such means of amusement for their children.
The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
to suggest the outline that was not there.
A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
the toy-makers' stock.
In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.
Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
are made in America.
Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
used in making duplicate parts of toys.
When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
on the American factory system.
Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred dollars. These
are readily purchased, however, by people of means.
In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.
EQUIPMENT.
The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
exception.
For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:
One coping saw frame.
One dozen saw blades.
A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.
Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.
The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.
A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
work for younger children.
A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" × 6" × 12". A hole should be bored
about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
photograph on Page 20 shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
methods of constructing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for
method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
much simplified.
With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.
The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
one-half inch in thickness.
Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
roughly.
Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
the plain wood.
Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
very easily and are light in weight.
For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
following tools are suggested:
1 Rip saw.
1 Turning saw.
1 Claw hammer.
1 Screw driver.
1 Half round file, No. 10.
1 Ruler.
1 Jack, or smooth, plane.
1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.
A 1/2" and 1" chisels.
1 Try square.
1 Pair of 6" dividers.
1 Knife.
This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
himself as the necessity arises.
If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
money earned by the boy by making things for others.
Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.
LAYING OUT WORK.
For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.
In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
by the boy.
With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
child and not a discouraging failure.
TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.
A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
may be made from it in a similar manner.
Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
drawing with a medium-hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See Plate 5.
ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.
As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
persistent question, "Why"?
By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.
FINISH AND COLOR.
After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
other imperfections.
Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
finished.
In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
the edges.
Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
clothing.
The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" without
spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.
For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
with.
By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.
In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
applied.
Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.
When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
floor, on which to hang the painted article.
[Illustration: Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy
as good construction.]
Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no dust
stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
not falling below 60 degrees.
Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.
Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.
Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.
Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
toy fifty per cent.
Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
varnish.
Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
the different parts painted before assembling.
STAINING.
Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
the wood.
Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
unevenly stained.
There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.
Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
wood.
Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
them out with the brush.
After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
desired.
For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
being preferable.
Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
if desired.
METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.
If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.
One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels.
This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.
Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.
For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
inch bit should be used.
Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
we come to put the work together.
After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
the joint from coming together.
Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.
[Illustration: _Plate 1._
_METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD_]
Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.
Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
drive into place, as indicated.
By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
clamping will be understood.
The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
of all glue and planed.
SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.
In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
as is shown in the sketch.
[Illustration: Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work
detailed in Plate 2.]
SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.
In making this support the following method should be followed:
The back piece is first made 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 20". The top is made 7/8" ×
6-3/4 × 12" and the brace 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and
are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This
allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of
the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At
this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end
measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent
to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.
[Illustration: _Plate 2._
_SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK_]
Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.
SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.
For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" ×
6-3/4" × 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 12" and the base 7/8" ×
5" × 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" × 3" × 8". The top has the same
V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
any hardware store.
THE BENCH HOOK.
The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate
3. The main piece is made 7/8" × 6" × 12". Two cross cleats are made,
one being 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 6" and the other 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 5". Holes are
bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.
[Illustration: _Plate 3._
_THE BENCH HOOK_]
If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece
of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge.
Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not
raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge
will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the
beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to
the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or
seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows:
Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain
uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge.
Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite
direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split.
Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
sawing and planing.
SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.
In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
chisel and the plane blade.
If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very
useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
over half an inch.
The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
surface of the stone.
The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
cutting edge.
Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.
The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
work with.
[Illustration: _Plate 4._
_SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING_]
The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
be found sharp enough.
Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.
Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
and skill comes only with continued practice.
In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
until the desired edge is obtained.
Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.
[Illustration: Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.]
COPING SAW WORK.
The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are
especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.
Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.
All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
with glue and 1-1/4" brads.
Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.
Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.
Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base.
DOWEL STICKS.
Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
cents apiece.
Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.
PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.
The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially
good for the beginner.
First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
magazine. Colored pictures are the best.
Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
to dry overnight.
Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
drawing.
If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
Christmas gift.
[Illustration: _Plate 5._
_PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION_]
[Illustration: _Plate 6._
_PELICAN_]
[Illustration: _Plate 7._
_DUCK_]
[Illustration: _Plate 8._
_GOOSE_]
[Illustration: _Plate 9._
_RHINOCEROS_]
[Illustration: _Plate 10._
_ELEPHANT_]
[Illustration: _Plate 11._
_RABBIT_]
[Illustration: _Plate 12._
_LAMB_]
[Illustration: _Plate 13._
_GOAT_]
[Illustration: _Plate 14._
_ROOSTER_]
[Illustration: _Plate 15._
_CAMEL_]
[Illustration: _Plate 16._
_METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES_]
METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.
If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
following method is very simple:
Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16.
If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
number all parts to agree.
Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.
With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
made.
A picture may be reduced by the same method.
DIPPY DUCK.
This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
floor.
As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate
pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
around the top edge, as shown.
The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/2".
A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
out. The opposite end is rounded.
A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
piece to move easily upon it.
The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
turn easily within.
The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
to pull it by.
[Illustration: _Plate 17._
_DIPPY DUCK_]
All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
[Illustration: _Plate 18._
_MONITOR_ (_revolving turret_)]
THE MONITOR.
This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
that is at home both on the land and water.
The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
with a coping saw and finish smooth.
The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
from each end.
For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.
[Illustration: The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.]
The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.
The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" × 3/4" ×
4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
and glue.
[Illustration: _Plate 19._
_MERRIMAC_]
The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.
A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
base.
A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.
THE MERRIMAC.
The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.
The hull is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
from either end.
The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" × 6-1/4".
The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.
The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.
Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
which a string may be attached.
The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
against the sloping sides of the turret.
A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.
The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
indicated on the drawing.
The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
sides of the hull.
The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" × 3/4" × 4" and are
nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.
The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.
The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.
After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
ship gray paint.
[Illustration: _Plate 20._
_CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL_]
CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.
This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
winter. (Plate 20.)
The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
balance.
The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.
The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.
This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
indicated.
The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" ×
8" × 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
piece of zinc, 3-1/4" × 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
shown.
The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" × 1-5/8" × 8" and then planed
from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.
THE PERISCOPE.
This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.
For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces
of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" × 2-7/8".
Pieces A are cut 3/8" × 2" × 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" × 2" × 17-1/4";
pieces E, 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
18-7/8".
Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.
All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.
The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.
[Illustration: _Plate 21._
_PERISCOPE_]
[Illustration: The Periscope in Use.]
DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
(Size A.)
This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
strong and serviceable.
Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children
of varying ages.
Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material
is prepared as follows:
The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
radius.
[Illustration: The Three Types of Ironing Boards.]
Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.
[Illustration: _Plate 22._
_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size A_)]
Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.
The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" × 1" × 19"
and the two shorter ones 1/2" × 1" × 18-3/4".
One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
shown in the drawing.
Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.
On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
rounded end.
The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" ×
1-1/8" × 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.
The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" × 1" ×
4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
from the ends.
Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" × 1" ×
3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
the long legs.
A cleat 7/8" × 1" × 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
position.
All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
being assembled. No further finish is necessary.
DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
(Size B.)
The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
(Plate 23.)
This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
years of age.
The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.
The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
preceding problem.
The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" × 1-1/8"
× 24", and the shorter 9/16" × 1-1/8" × 22-1/2".
One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
in the drawing.
Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.
[Illustration: _Plate 23._
_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size B_)]
On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
9-3/8" from the rounded ends.