Upper Egypt. He found a well defined road eastwards. At the end of
one day’s journey was a well, and another at two days journey. On
the second day two different roads branched off towards Kosseir. At
every eight or nine hours, from Redesia on the Nile, he met with
the ruins of square massive buildings (not near the wells), as if
of fortified stations; and the road appeared in many parts ancient,
and the labour of men. On the second day he found on the road an
ancient temple, cut out of the sand-rock, like those of Nubia,
with four pillars in the interior of the cave, and two before it,
having on both sides of the principal room a small apartment, and
three colossal figures on the back wall of the cave, thus exactly
resembling the excavated temple at Derr. The walls were all covered
with hieroglyphics and figures in beautiful colours, as fine, the
traveller says, as those of the tombs of the Kings of Thebes. Several
Greek inscriptions were engraved on the walls of the cave, which he
did not copy.[214] Beyond this temple (near which no water is found),
he saw in continuing his route along the road, on various parts of
the mountain, tablets of hieroglyphics and figures cut out of the
granite rock; and on the third day after his departure from the Nile,
he fell in with a great ancient road running from north to south. The
road is broad, and evidently a work of great labour. The Arabs told
him that several ancient buildings were found on that road farther
south, but the traveller could not go in quest of antiquities, as
he was sent in search of emeralds. He therefore crossed that road,
and travelled over the mountains eastward until he met with the
emerald mines, at the distance of seven days journey from Edfou, as
many from Kous, and four days south of Kosseir. They are situated
in a narrow valley composed of granite rocks. Along the mountain
on both sides runs a horizontal stratum of mica, into which pits
have been dug. Some of the pits, following this layer of mica in
an oblique direction into the interior of the mountain, are four
or five hundred feet in depth. The layer of mica being only from
three to four feet in breadth, the alleys formed in the mountain
are of no greater height, and whenever the mica layer increases in
height, the roof of the passage is supported by wooden beams. In
the interior of the pits, Mr. C. found a few specimens of emerald,
of which I have seen a small piece about eight lines in length
and five in breadth; a six-sided crystal, broken on both ends,
its colour fine, but not clear. A better specimen is said to be
in possession of the Pasha. When three years ago the Pasha’s
mineralogist worked in these mountains to find emeralds (as I
have said in my journal) his party had likewise come to these
mines, and made some slight excavations. The road leading to the
mines, to which the Ababde Bedouins apply the name of Zaboura,
is cut through the rock with great labour. Close to the pits, of
which there are about 60, basins or tanks have been formed in the
granite rock to receive the rain water, Mr. C. found most of them
filled with water. Some ruins of stone habitations stand in the
valley. The nearest source of water is about five miles distant;
it is very copious, and much resorted to by the Bedouins. About six
hours distant, there is said to be another collection of similar
pits with ruined buildings, where drawings of figures, &c. are seen,
but these the traveller did not visit. In descending from the emerald
mines to the sea, which is about eight hours distant, a broad sandy
shore is seen, with a small flat island in the vicinity. The Pasha
informed Mr. C. that it appears from the public registers that
these mines were still worked in the 17th century. In proceeding
from the mines farther south, the traveller met at two days journey
from thence, at a quarter of an hour distant from the sea shore,
a mountain entirely composed of sulphur, of which he brought away
specimens. This mountain is well known in Upper Egypt, for whenever
the Mamelouks were cut off from Cairo, they procured from thence
the sulphur necessary to make gunpowder. The whole neighbourhood
of this sulphur mountain is volcanic, and the sulphur itself is
closely mixed with puzzolana earth.
On the whole road travelled by Mr. C. acacia wood grows in great
plenty; the tree Allobe, of which I have spoken in my Shendy journal,
is likewise met with. The Arabs call it the date of the desert. I
immediately recognised the fruit, of which Mr. C. brought back some
specimens. (Perhaps it may be the Labakh of the Arabs, or the Persea
of the ancients.)
Little doubt can remain that the route which has thus been traced
was the great road from Coptos to Berenice, or from thence perhaps
to Aidab. The Arabs told the traveller that in continuing on the
road which he crossed, a large temple was to be seen with several
columns, situated a few days to the east of Assouan.[215]
(83.) Sherif Edrys in the Geog. Nub. says that eight Dinars were
taken at Aizab from each pilgrim. In the short notice he has of
that town, he adds that from Aizab to Djidda, the sea is crossed
in one day and a night. The pilgrims coming from Aizab to Djidda
had in former times to pay likewise at the latter place, a heavy
personal duty, which was abolished in 572, A. H. by Salah eddyn,
(v. Asamy’s History of Mekka.)
(84.) Damyry in his Zoology above cited, says of the Kersh (قِرش)
that it is a large fish found in the Red Sea, of a round shape. It
swims like lightning, and sometimes impedes the ship’s course,
overturns boats, and breaks them.[216]
_A Recapitulation of the Chronological Dates contained in these
Notices on Nubia and Bedja._
* * * * *
A.H.
20. The Bedjas and Noubas send an army in aid of the besieged
Greeks at Bahnasa.
21. Aby Sarh, a commander of Amr Ibn el Aas, invades Nouba.
31. Aby Sarh makes a second expedition against Nouba, besieges
Dóngola, and obliges the king of Nouba to pay a tribute in
slaves.
216. Ibn Djaham, a commander of the Khalif Mamoun, renders the
Bedjas tributary. Under Motasem, the successor of Mamoun,
Zakaria the king of the Nouba and his son Feyraky, confirm
the tribute.
241. El Komy defeats the Bedjas, whose chief repairs to Bagdad
to sue for peace.
255. El Amry, with the Arab tribes of Rabya and Djeheyne, takes
possession of the gold mines in the Bedja country.
332. The tribe of Rabya continues in possession of these mines.
345. Ibrim is taken, and the King of Nouba repulsed by the
officer of Akshedy, Sultan of Egypt.
453. The pilgrim route is opened from Upper Egypt through the
desert to Aidab.
568. Salah eddyn sends an army against the Noubas, who had
ruined Elephantine and Assouan.
569. A brother of Salah eddyn makes an incursion into Nouba from
Yemen.
570. The army of Salah eddyn defeats Kenz el Dowla, the rebel of
Assouan.
660. The pilgrim route through Bedja is discontinued.
674. Sultan Dhaher Bybars of Egypt sends an army into the Nouba
country; the churches are ruined; part of the country
is annexed to Egypt, and the Nouba are obliged to pay a
capitation.
684 The army of Sultan Seyf eddyn Kelaoun over-runs the country
and of Nouba, as far as 18 days journey higher up than Dóngola.
688.
760. Aidab is abandoned as a sea port of Indian merchandises.
790. The Beni Kenz take Assouan.
799. The Osman Emperor Selym conquers Egypt. He sends garrisons
to Assouan, Ibrim, Say, and Souakin.
815. The Howara Arabs drive the Beni Kenz from Assouan (above
the cataract) and destroy that city.
_Note a._ I have found in Mackrizi’s History of the Sultans of Egypt,
called Es-Selouk, which I have cited above, some farther notices on
the wars between Egypt and Nouba, which I shall add here. In
relating in his chronicles of the year
674. The campaign of Dhaher Bibar’s officers against Daoud,
the King of Nouba, he describes it in the same terms as
those mentioned here, and he adds: The Moslim army reached
Dóngola, built on the east side of the Nile, where they
remained 17 days. They ruined the church of Ysous (Jesus).
They took from all the churches the golden crosses and
silver vessels. The soldiers took so many captives, that
after they had killed and sold great numbers, at three
Derhems per head, 10,000 of them still remained in their
hands.
It appears that Daoud died, and that Shekendy was
dispossessed of his kingdom by Samamoun, who became a
rebel; for in the year
684. The Sultan of Egypt, Seyf eddyn Kalaoun el Elfy es-Salehy,
ordered a large army to repair into the Nouba country,
among the numbers of which were likewise the Arab tribes
of Kenz and Beni Helal. Samamoun, together with Djerys,
the governor of the castle of Addo retired before the
approaching enemy as far as Dóngola, when a bloody battle
took place, in which the Nouba king was defeated and fled.
The Moslims pursued him 15 days journey beyond Dóngola;
they took Djerys prisoner, together with the nephew of
the King. The kingdom of Nouba was then given to a cousin
of Samamoun, Djerys was appointed his lieutenant, and
the tribute of slaves was re-established. The Moslim
army retired, carrying with them great numbers of Nouba
captives, men and women, whom they sold at Cairo.
After the army had departed, Samamoun rallied his party,
retook his country, and in the year
687. The fugitive rival king, together with Djerys, arrived as
refugees at Cairo. In the year
688, the Sultan of Egypt set on foot an army of 40,000 men to
recover the Nouba country. They were accompanied by 500
ships of all sorts, with many Harakes (a sort of gondolas,
called now Kandje, in Egypt), and both the refugees set
out with them. The pretender of Nouba died on the way at
Assouan; a nephew of Daoud, the former King of Nouba, who
then happened to be at Cairo, was dispatched from thence
to be installed in the government of Nouba in his stead.
The army divided into two parts, and ascended the Nile on
the east and west side. The country between Addo and the
islands of Mykeyl, which was the province under the command
of Djerys, submitted; but farther on the inhabitants
remained firm in allegiance to their king, and fled. The
soldiers plundered and destroyed every thing before them,
and reached Dóngola, which they found entirely abandoned by
its inhabitants; an old man and an old woman being the only
people who had remained there. Samamoum had taken refuge in
an island of the Nile, 15 days journey beyond Dóngola. The
army followed him, but it was found that the ships could
not pass the river on account of rocks.
In 689 the army reached however the banks opposite the islands,
when they saw many ships of the Nouba. They offered a safe
conduct to the king, but he did not accept it, and afraid
as he was of the coming up of the ships and the Harakes,
he fled towards Aboab, three days journey distant from
that island, which is a place beyond the limits of his
territory.[217] His chiefs and officers, the bishop and
priests abandoned him, and demanded a safe conduct from
the commander of the Moslims, who granted it. His army
remained three days before that island, and then returned
to Dóngola. They made a feast for him and exhibited martial
evolutions, and the dinner was spread in the church of
Ysous, the first church of Dóngola. The nephew of Daoud was
then crowned, and a corps of Moslim was left with him for
his defence. The chiefs swore allegiance to him, and the
Bakt was confirmed. After an absence of six months the army
returned to Assouan, and soon after to Cairo with great
booty. No sooner had they left Nouba than Samamoun returned
in disguise to Dóngola. He knocked at the doors of all
his officers, who when they came out and saw him, kissed
the ground (in sign of obedience). On the next morning he
assembled his whole army; he proceeded to the mansion of
the king, sent back the Moslim guard with their commander
to Kous, and laid hold of his rival. He dressed him in an
ox skin, and tied him to a post where he was left until he
died. Djerys was killed. Samamoun then wrote to the Sultan
of Egypt to ask his pardon, promising to send the Bakt. He
sent slaves and other presents, which were accepted.
_Note b._ It deserves mentioning here, that Aidab was at the end
of the 12th century, for a short time in possession of the Crusaders.
I find in Macrizi’s History, Es-Selouk, that in the year
578. El Bernys Ernat[218] (البرنيس ارناط), the Franks chief of
Kerek, built ships, and transported them by land to the
Red Sea. He stationed two ships at the castle of Kolzum,
to prevent the Moslim inhabitants of that place from
taking in water,[219] while he proceeded with the rest of
his fleet towards Aidab. He killed and took captives on
the road. He burnt about 16 ships, and took at Aidab a
ship full of pilgrims coming from Djidda. He intercepted
the caravan route with Kous, and took at Almor,[220] in
the desert between Kous and Aidab, a caravan of pilgrims,
whom he killed. They took two ships that had come from
Yemen full of merchandise, together with a great quantity
of provisions which had been collected on the coast for
the supply of the holy city. Such a misfortune had never
been heard of in the time of the Islam, and before them
no Roumy[221] had ever come into these parts, for there
remained only one day’s journey between them and Medina,
the town of the Prophet. They marched against Medina
to take it. The governor of Egypt, El Melek el Aadel,
sent an army to Kolzum; ships were built at Cairo and at
Alexandria. The Moslims reached Aila, and took some of the
ships of the Franks, which they burnt, making their crews
prisoners. The commander then set out for Aidab in pursuit
of the Franks. He overtook their ships and took them, and
having liberated the captives, restored what had been
taken from them by the enemy. He then landed on the firm
land,[222] and the Arab horsemen pursued the fugitives of
the Franks; two of the latter were carried to Muna,[223]
and were slaughtered there in the same manner as a ram is
immolated. The Moslims then returned to Cairo with many
captives, who were decapitated.
* * * * *
London: Printed by W. Bulmer and Co.
Cleveland Row, St. James’s.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: Macrizi was a native of Baalbek, who flourished about
the year 800 of the Hejra, or in the beginning of the 15th century.]
[Footnote 2: Vide note 1 at the end.]
[Footnote 3: The exact distance between Assouan and the cataract
of Wady Halfa.]
[Footnote 4: Probably the Doum.]
[Footnote 5: Meaning, I suppose, the extent of ground irrigated
by each water-wheel, which exactly corresponds with what I have
observed on that subject in my journal.]
[Footnote 6: Vide note 2 at the end.]
[Footnote 7: Vide note 3.]
[Footnote 8: Vide note 4.]
[Footnote 9: Perhaps the ruined city of Meharraka, mentioned in
my journal.]
[Footnote 10: The castle of _Adde_ and the colossal temple of
Ebsambal, are probably meant here.]
[Footnote 11: Wady Halfa.]
[Footnote 12: From Wady Halfa to Sukkot, are four _long_ days
journey.]
[Footnote 13: An exact description in all its details of the Batn
el Hadjar, or the country above Wady Halfa.]
[Footnote 14: Vide note 6.]
[Footnote 15: Vide note 7.]
[Footnote 16: Vide note 8.]
[Footnote 17: Vide note 9.]
[Footnote 18: The baryd is an Arabic land-measure of four farsakh,
or 12 miles.]
[Footnote 19: Vide note 10.]
[Footnote 20: Vide note 11.]
[Footnote 21: Meaning the pigeon-houses, which in the shape of high
square towers, are at this day extremely common in Upper Egypt.]
[Footnote 22: See note 12.]
[Footnote 23: I have stated the same fact in various parts of
my journals.]
[Footnote 24: See note 13.]
[Footnote 25: This is over-rated; but I have reason to believe,
that the bend of the Nile will, on examination, be found much
greater than is laid down in the maps.]
[Footnote 26: See note 14.]
[Footnote 27: See note 15.]
[Footnote 28: This again is over-rated.]
[Footnote 29: Thus if _a_ be ascending and _b_ descending, they
will proceed in the same direction if the turn be as follows:
[Illustration]]
[Footnote 30: See note 16.]
[Footnote 31: See note 17.]
[Footnote 32: See note 18.]
[Footnote 33: Two different languages are still spoken on the
borders of the Nile in Nubia.]
[Footnote 34: On the west bank of the Nile, above Debot, at no
great distance from the cataracts, are the ruins of a city, still
bearing the name of Merys. Vide Journal.]
[Footnote 35: The name of Mokra still remains in the appellation
of Wady Mokrat, on the Nile, three days journeys below Berber.]
[Footnote 36: See note 19.]
[Footnote 37: i. e. the Gates.]
[Footnote 38: This river is, no doubt, the Mogren, the bed of which
I found dry, with the exception of a few pools, in April, 1814.]
[Footnote 39: This name is usually applied to the Sherif Edrys,
as having been a native of Nubia; Macrizi here applies it to Selym
of Assouan, as the historian of Nubia.]
[Footnote 40: This description answers to that of a fish found in
some of the rivers of Asia Minor. ED.]
[Footnote 41: See note 20.]
[Footnote 42: See note 21.]
[Footnote 43: So I translate the Arabic word Berak, (_plur._ of
Birket). Thus the Dead Sea is called “Birket Lout,” the sea or
lake of Lot.]
[Footnote 44: By this river the Nil el Azrek (Blue Nile) is no
doubt meant.]
[Footnote 45: See note 22.]
[Footnote 46: See note 23.]
[Footnote 47: See note 24.]
[Footnote 48: In reading the account of this _island_, as it is
called, and of the people, it is impossible not to think on Meroë,
and the Troglodytes of Herodotus. See note 25.]
[Footnote 49: Meaning, I suppose, that their periodical risings
take place at the same time.]
[Footnote 50: By the four rivers are probably meant the branches
of the Bahr el Azrek.]
[Footnote 51: If under the first mentioned river the Mogren is
really to be understood, this statement is erroneous.]
[Footnote 52: See note 26.]
[Footnote 53: The Arabic geographers give the name of Zendj to the
south-eastern coast of Africa, about Melinda and Mombaza; but the
Zendj here meant, is a northern tribe in the Somauly or Abyssinian
country. From Zendj, or as it is likewise pronounced Zeng, the term
Zanguebar is no doubt derived.]
[Footnote 54: See note 27.]
[Footnote 55: Cape Gardafui is probably here meant.]
[Footnote 56: Having passed the Straits of Bab el Mandeb.]
[Footnote 57: See note 28.]
[Footnote 58: See note 29.]
[Footnote 59: See note 30.]
[Footnote 60: رُبط, the plural of رباط, are public buildings,
destined originally for the accommodation of students; many of them
still exist in the Hedjaz, and at Cairo, where they have declined
into mere lodging-houses.]
[Footnote 61: Mozer is a species of Bouza, or fermented liquor,
still known by that name in Egypt, and especially in Upper Egypt. I
have mentioned this white, large grained Dhourra, in my journal.]
[Footnote 62: Towards Sennaar the cultivable soil on the Nile
extends far inland.]
[Footnote 63: It thus appears that Christianity had at this time
extended nearly as far as Sennaar.]
[Footnote 64: At this day the people of Berber and Shendy, as I
have remarked in my journal, are less intelligent than the Noubas
of Dóngola.]
[Footnote 65: It should seem from this, that his country extended
far to the south towards the Abyssinian mountains.]
[Footnote 66: See note 31.]
[Footnote 67: A chasm in all the three manuscripts.]
[Footnote 68: See note 32.]
[Footnote 69: يتلثموا, i. e. they cover their faces with a
hand-kerchief, as the Arabian Bedouins, to this day often do with
their keffie, or head-kerchief.]
[Footnote 70: Much the same thing is related of the present king
of Bornou.]
[Footnote 71: As it still does in Bornou and Bahr el Ghazal.]
[Footnote 72: See note 33.]
[Footnote 73: I have stated in my journal, that towards Shendy
and Sennaar the cotton Dammour and its fractional parts form the
principal currency.]
[Footnote 74: Probably by tying many of them together, and thus
making a raft.]
[Footnote 75: See note 34.]
[Footnote 76: Masoudy says, that they are seven days journey from
Goft, which is in the immediate neighbourhood of Kous; and it will
be seen from the note 82, that he was right.]
[Footnote 77: See note 35.]
[Footnote 78: Mica, See note 82.]
[Footnote 79: See note 36.]
[Footnote 80: A similar custom, founded upon the same principle,
prevails in Ashantee. See Bowdich’s Mission, p. 234, 254. ED.]
[Footnote 81: See note 37.]
[Footnote 82: In my journey round the Dead Sea to Cairo, I remarked
a similar custom prevalent among the Arabs of Kerek.]
[Footnote 83: From Seba, i. e. seven.]
[Footnote 84: From Aksum in Abyssinia.]
[Footnote 85: From Dahlak, an island in the Red Sea, near Massoua.]
[Footnote 86: The Bedja tribe which I saw at the island of Mekouar
had shields made of the skin of a large fish.]
[Footnote 87: See note 38.]
[Footnote 88: See note 39.]
[Footnote 89: See note 40.]
[Footnote 90: See note 41.]
[Footnote 91: See note 42.]
[Footnote 92: See note 43.]
[Footnote 93: See note 44.]
[Footnote 94: See note 45.]
[Footnote 95: See note 46.]
[Footnote 96: Perhaps this is the species of Gazelle with two
straight horns, represented in the beautiful historical bas-relief
of Kalabshe in Nubia. See p. 117.]
[Footnote 97: See note 47.]
[Footnote 98: See note 48.]
[Footnote 99: See note 49.]
[Footnote 100: The author undoubtedly means a white man.]
[Footnote 101: The aspect of the translator excited quite different
emotions in the Bedja women, for whenever they saw him they uttered
a shriek, and those who spoke Arabic exclaimed, “God preserve us
from the devil!”]
[Footnote 102: In the original it is more coarsely expressed.]
[Footnote 103: i. e. Christians or Jews.]
[Footnote 104: See note 50.]
[Footnote 105: See note 51.]
[Footnote 106: The public treasury.]
[Footnote 107: On the road to Aidab. See below.]
[Footnote 108: A village of the name of Koban, with an ancient
ruined city, is situated about three days south of Philæ (Kaszer,)
opposite to Dakke, on the east bank of the Nile (see p. 106);
the columns here mentioned were probably a part of the ruins at
Koban. The columns of Philæ are all upon the island, and could not,
therefore, well serve as a line of demarcation.]
[Footnote 109: Here follows a repetition of the solemn assurance
of peace, as above.]
[Footnote 110: See note 52.]
[Footnote 111: See note 53.]
[Footnote 112: Or it may be translated, “on the river.”]
[Footnote 113: Apparently in the same manner as the papyri are
rolled and wrapped up.]
[Footnote 114: Vide infra.]
[Footnote 115: See note 54.]
[Footnote 116: In his book called the “Golden Meadows.”]
[Footnote 117: Masoudy, whose work I possess, adds that the people
of Ollaky are supplied with water by the rains, and have running
springs in the Djebel Ollaky. See note 56.]
[Footnote 118: See note 57 .]
[Footnote 119: The Negroe Moslims, to this day, apply the name of
Koran indiscriminately to all the pagan Negro nations.]
[Footnote 120: Mr. Browne found a tribe of Zaghawa in the desert
north of Darfour.]
[Footnote 121: See note 58.]
[Footnote 122: See note 59.]
[Footnote 123: See note 60.]
[Footnote 124: See note 61.]
[Footnote 125: See note 62.]
[Footnote 126: Here is a chasm in all the MSS.]
[Footnote 127: See note 63.]
[Footnote 128: i. e. the Khalif.]
[Footnote 129: See note 64.]
[Footnote 130: A vestment of cloth still worn in the East.]
[Footnote 131: See note 65.]
[Footnote 132: Some Nouba captives, I suppose.]
[Footnote 133: A quarter of Cairo near the canal, now in ruins.]
[Footnote 134: The author does not say of what.]
[Footnote 135: See note 66.]
[Footnote 136: In the same work called “The Golden Meadows.”]
[Footnote 137: i. e. The Conquests of the Moslims.]
[Footnote 138: This Khalif reigned from 136 to 150 A. H.]
[Footnote 139: See note 67.]
[Footnote 140: See note 68.]
[Footnote 141: See note 69.]
[Footnote 142: See note 70.]
[Footnote 143: i. e. Soldiers charged with the burning of the
enemies towns (جال حراريق).]
[Footnote 144: Probably a species of cuirass made of quilted cotton,
like those still worn by the Bedjawy, but of a white colour.]
[Footnote 145: See note 71.]
[Footnote 146: I believe this to be the island of Sukkot, above the
second cataract, where I met with several ruins of Greek churches.]
[Footnote 147: See note 72.]
[Footnote 148: A similar tribute received by the kings or priests
of Egypt, is represented in the beautiful historic bas-relief in the
grotto of Dar el Waly, behind the temple of Kalabshe. See note 73.]
[Footnote 149: As to its revenues, I suppose.]