_Etwee_, head.
_Isilla_, hair of the head.
_Lotto_, ear.
_Booyah_, mouth.
_Nokko_, eye.
_Lopappo_, eye-lashes.
_Kokalako_, chief, or head man.
_Mohoonka_, chief's wife.
_Icancunee_, little one.
_Ebeo_, boy.
_Ternapo_, mother.
_Murugudu_, eye-brows.
_Vompo and Mompo_, nose.
_Bello_ and _Wello_, tooth.
_Ezaddoo_, beard.
_Lobabbo_, tongue.
_Lobok_, arm.
_Dialla_, hand.
_Aboobooso_, wrist.
_Anné_, finger.
_Jpapo_, thigh.
_Eddo_, and _Etoko_, knee.
_Lopola_, leg.
_Inkakase_, ancle.
_Dekotto_, foot.
_Deballe_, female bosom.
_Babilla_, belly.
_Djakkee_, navel.
_Bopa_.
_Motto_.
_Djeecha_.
_Eppoo_ buttocks.
_Elleboo_, trinket of wood, in form of a bell.
_Motoocko_, belt of shells and pebbles.
_Dpibbo_, bracelet.
_Longebo_, armlet.
_Touno_, black shell bracelet.
_Ebebbo_, snake skin collar.
_Loppollo_, vertebrae of a snake.
_Eboote_, hat.
_Mu-u,_ bulls, or cattle.
_Me-he,_ sheep, or goats, or their flesh.
_Kohoko_, fowls, or their meat.
_Tonatchetolo_, tattoo, or marked.
_Empoo_, dog's jaw.
_Tokko_, round shell ornament like a button.
_Epehaunah_, purse, sheep's scrotum.
_Looka_, man.
_Daka_, woman.
_Labole_, ship.
_Labolechee_, or _Epoode_, boat.
_Wattoo_, canoe.
_Ikahaddee_, long reed, in the stern of canoes.
_Kalsokoola_, sail.
_Nossapo_, mast.
_Inkappa_, paddle.
_Bonokee_, fishing.
_Itokka_, sun.
_Tolo_, moon.
_Bockao_, eggs.
_Boka_, water.
_Mooheelya_, bar of iron.
_Pooripoodee_, cloves.
_Sokolaee_, Chili pepper.
_Epeepee_, tomatos.
_Etoka_, potatoe.
_Saly_, yams.
_Beentok_, or _Lilo_, cocoa tops.
_Topy_, or _Nakko_, palm-wine.
_Loma_, to drink.
_Looba_, or _Bata_, give.
_Taleppa_, take it away.
_Omitta_, to hold.
_Vallee_ anger.
_Atehee_, done, no more, finish, end.
_Anjoo_, come here.
_Sheerskalle_, fine, pretty.
_Boola_, or _Lilla_, or _Illee_, one.
_Epa_, or _Taba_, two.
_Buelly_, or _Twelly_, three.
_Betoh_, or _Totoh_, five.
_Beho_, ten.
_Bo_, fifteen.
_Eeckee_, twenty.
_Olaito_, thirty.
It would be superfluous to repeat the descriptions which have already,
on various occasions, been given of the persons, dress, and characters
of the male inhabitants of this island. The reader will have inferred,
that they are generally a harmless and inoffensive race of savages: it
may be added, that they are probably the most dirty people existing
under the face of the sun; for, with the exception of occasional
immersions in the sea, when occupied in the affairs of business, we have
never known them to wash themselves. The only systematic method they
appear to adopt of cleansing, as well as of dress, is to give themselves
a new coating of clay and palm-oil, whenever the previous one happens to
be injured. Some few individuals, indeed, appear to renew this covering
as a matter of fashion; particularly one dandy chief, who frequently
changed the colour of his skin, and, in consequence, became familiarly
known to us by the name of Chameleon; and what is singular, this man,
like our European dandies, was in the habit of scenting himself.
The transition from the male to the female sex, through the intermediate
species of Macaroni, is easy, if not natural; and I shall indulge my own
particular feelings and partialities in entering upon that part of my
observations which relates more exclusively to the fairer and softer
portion of this aboriginal people. The infinite modifications of person,
mind, and manners, exhibited by the sex in the different grades of
society throughout the world, whether formed by the influences of
climate, government, or education, present a most interesting subject to
the speculative observer of human nature: and to one who, from early
life, both by profession and inclination, a traveller, has wandered
under every temperature of our eastern hemisphere, who has studied and
admired the sex under every variety of character, no wonder that the
contemplation of woman, as nature left her, inartificial,
unsophisticated, simple, barbarous, and unadorned, should seem fraught
with peculiar interest. Are there any who imagine that my loss of
eye-sight must necessarily deny me the enjoyment of such contemplations?
How much more do I pity the mental darkness which could give rise to
such an error, than they can pity my personal calamity! The feelings and
sympathies which pervade my breast, when in the presence of an amiable
and interesting female, are such as never could have been suggested by
_viewing_ a mere surface of coloured clay, however shaped into beauty,
or however animated by feeling and expression. The intelligence still
allowed me by a beneficent Providence, is amply sufficient to apprise me
of the existence of the more real--the diviner beauties of the soul; and
herein are enjoyments in which I am proud to indulge. A soft and sweet
voice, for instance, affords me a two-fold gratification;--it is a
vehicle of delight, as operating on the appropriate nerves, and, at the
same time, it suggests ideas of _visible_ beauty, which, I admit, may,
by force of imagination, be carried beyond _reality_. But, supposing I
am deceived, are my feelings the less intense?--and, in what consists my
existence, but in those feelings? Is it otherwise with those who _see_?
If it be, I envy them not. But are those who think themselves happier,
in this respect, than I am, sure, that the possession of a more
exquisite sense than any they enjoy, does not, sometimes at least,
compensate, or more than compensate, the curtailments to which the
ordinary senses, and particularly the one of eye-sight, is liable?--and
if they should think so, let them not, at least, deny me the resources I
possess. I shall not, however, persist further in a description of that
situation, those circumstances and those consolations, which the
all-feeling comprehension of the poet hath so justly caught in one of
its diviner moods of inspiration:--
And yet he neither drooped nor pined,
Nor had a melancholy mind;
For God took pity on the boy,
And was his friend--and gave him joy
Of which we nothing know.
The personal appearance of the females of Fernando Po, is by no means
attractive, unless (de gustibus non est disputandum) a very ordinary
face, with much of the contour of the baboon, be deemed so. Add to this
the ornaments of scarification and tattooing, adopted by the sex to a
greater extent than by the men: and the imagination will at once be
sensible how much divinity attaches to Fernandian beauty. Like the men,
the women plaster the body all over with clay and palm-oil, and also in
a similar manner wear the hair long, and in curls or ringlets, well
stiffened with the above composition. The children of both sexes, or
those who have not obtained the age of puberty, have the hair cut short,
and are not permitted to use any artificial covering to the body. One
trait is, perhaps, peculiar to the women of this country, and may be
regarded by some as an indication of their good sense--that they have no
taste for baubles, or, at all events, do not appear to desire them more
than the men. With respect to articles of clothing, they are equally
exempt from such incumbrances as the other sex:--
Happy the climate where the beau
Wears the same suit for use and show,
And at a small expense your wife,
If once well pink'd, is clothed for life.
Their lords and masters contrive to keep them in great subjection, and
accustom them to carry their burdens; they evince also a considerable
degree of jealousy, and shew evident marks of displeasure, whenever
strangers pay attentions to them. As, however, this is equally the case
whether the lady be young or old, it is not improbable that it may, in
some measure, arise from their considering it too great a condescension
on their parts to notice persons whom they deem so inferior. They rarely
brought them to the ship, and for some time did not allow them to appear
at market. If we are to credit our people, some of the young women are
great jilts, and very expert in wheedling them out of iron and other
property, under pretence of admitting them into their favour, and then
running away, with a laugh at their credulity.
Mr. Jeffery witnessed the following ludicrous occurrence. He went one
day, for the purpose of barter, to a part of the shore eastward of Hay
river, where the surf was too great to allow his boat to remain on the
beach, and he was, therefore, compelled to lie off in deep water; this,
however, did not prevent the natives from carrying on their traffic.
Some young women, in particular, came off to the boat, bringing a
calabash of palm-wine in each hand, and treading the water so soon as
they were out of their depth. These they contrived to deliver safe,
without the wine becoming in the slightest degree impregnated with the
briny wave. One of these females, having been taken into the boat, began
to ingratiate herself into the favour of an honest tar, who, nothing
loath, seated her near him, with his arm around her neck. At this
juncture, the boat beginning to move, she made a sudden plunge over the
side, and nearly carried the astonished seaman into the water; in short,
he only escaped a good ducking by laying fast hold of the seat. The lady
now, in an instant, dived under the boat, and, reappearing at some
distance on the opposite side, swam, laughing, to the shore, evidently
much amused at Jack's surprise and disappointment.
This was not the only instance Mr. Jeffery met with of the superior
talents of the fair sex, in swimming and diving. On one occasion, having
thrown into the sea a few small pieces of iron which had been rejected
in barter, a number of natives of both sexes dashed after them, with a
view to their recovery, when it was evident that the females were the
more active and successful.
To elucidate more fully the character of the native women, I shall
conclude my account of them with the details of an occurrence which
possesses enough of the romantic to be capable of exciting, in the hands
of a better painter than I am, an interest in the bosoms of such of my
fair readers as may delight in tales of love and jealousy, with their
sequel of rage and revenge. A female, about twenty-five years of age,
who resided at a village in the neighbourhood of our settlement, had
been guilty of an offence, probably infidelity to her husband, which
subjected her to the dreadful penalty of having her hands cut off.
Hoping to avert this punishment, she adopted the resolution, accompanied
by her child, a fine and engaging boy of two years old, of entering our
lines, and throwing herself on our protection. Captain Harrison received
her favourably, and, for additional safety, sent her on board the Eden,
where she remained several days before any inquiry was made respecting
her. Although evidently of much firmness and decision of character, her
personal appearance was by no means attractive, the face being greatly
seamed with scars, and the abdomen tattooed all over. Captain Owen
directed her to be placed under the care of our European females, who,
either from envy or the force of habit, not approving the Eve-like dress
in which she came on board, immediately clothed her in blue cotton
garments. The poor child of nature, unused to such incumbrance, which
probably, in her opinion, served only to irritate the skin, and prevent
the contact of the refreshing atmosphere, felt any thing but easy, or
gratified with this addition to her circumstances, and availed herself,
at first, of every opportunity to lay it aside; but our unrelenting
countrywomen were equally zealous in persisting to replace it. At
length, she either became more accustomed to it, or aware of the
necessity of compliance with the wishes of her new friends; this effort
was, however, not unaccompanied by some ludicrous occurrences: for
instance, whenever her tormentors were out of sight, she lost no time in
tucking the grievance up round the waist, and dropping it below the
shoulders from above, thus leaving her limbs, and the general surface,
as free as nature intended them to be. On being taken on shore some days
after, and placed under the protection of the wife of a seaman who had
charge of the guns and ordnance stores, she had become sufficiently
reconciled to her new dress to wear it with less apparent inconvenience;
she was, indeed, once caught tripping, having one evening taken an
opportunity of throwing it off, when finding herself light and free,
like a bird on the wing, she ran into the jungle, where she frisked
about and enjoyed herself for some time; after which she returned to the
seaman's hut, and resumed her dress.
When this woman had been with us about a week, her husband came to
Captain Harrison, bearing with him a present of two calabashes of
palm-wine, and a couple of fowls, intimating his wish to have the child
restored to him. With regard to his wife, he at this time shewed no
anxiety to recover her; he afterwards, however, returned with a
deputation of chiefs, and expressed his wish to have both of them
restored to him. This being represented to Captain Owen, in order to
convince them that she was under no restraint, he conducted her to the
boundary line, and, pointing first to her countrymen, and then to our
settlement, gave her to understand that she was at liberty to make her
choice. One of the chiefs now advanced, and taking her by the hand,
evinced his intention of leading her away, but Captain Owen would not
permit this without her free consent; and, that his presence might be no
restraint, left her to walk with her husband on the outside of the
boundary line, attended by a sailor armed with a musket. They had not
walked many paces, before five natives started from the bush and
attempted to carry her off by force, when she immediately ran towards
the sailor, and putting her hand on his musket, intimated her wish that
he would fire at them. He did so, and they all immediately scampered
away as fast as they could, leaving her to return with the sailor to his
hut. Foiled in this attempt, the husband soon after came again and
induced her to permit him to stay the night with her, and to take away
the child in the morning, under the promise of bringing it back next
day; a promise which he failed to perform, and which rendered the lady
so indignant, that, although he afterwards came to visit her himself,
bringing some fowls and palm-wine as a peace-offering, she persisted in
rejecting all compromise. This produced a violent quarrel, which ended
in their parting in high wrath, the husband threatening to return in the
night and inflict some dreadful vengeance upon her for it, but he did
not dare to carry his threats into execution.
I regret that my circumstances do not permit me to investigate the
general aspect and natural history of this island, as it abounds with
many interesting subjects which would well repay the trouble of inquiry.
It is to be hoped that Government will ere long send out some
intelligent naturalist for the purpose. The general appearance of the
island is rocky and volcanic; on the north-eastern extremity, where our
settlement is situated, one mountain, named Clarence Peak, rises to the
elevation of 10,655 feet above the level of the sea, the easiest ascent
to which is from its eastern side, being only interrupted by a few
valleys of no great depth, while the western side exhibits a series of
chasms and precipices, the sides of which from the sea appear almost
perpendicular. The southern part of the island, although the least
populous, is very picturesquely mountainous, being broken into several
peaks, each supposed to be from one to three thousand feet in elevation,
with numerous streams and beautiful cataracts descending in various
parts and directions. In consequence of the hilly nature of the country
admitting of no lodgment of water, we have reason to believe that few
marshes exist throughout the island, a circumstance which must
contribute greatly to its salubrity.
The soil of that part of the country with which we are best acquainted,
is of a red argillaceous nature, generally forming a stratum of nine or
ten feet in thickness, lying over one of sandstone, in which are
imbedded fragments of lava; the latter stratum, at Point William,
appears to decline to the east, at an angle of ten or twelve degrees.
The whole of the island is most luxuriantly wooded, even to within three
or four hundred feet of its highest peaks, while some cleared spots,
particularly in the north-east part, which is the most populous and
cultivated, affords evidences of its great fertility. There is an
immense variety of timber, comprising some of the finest trees in the
world. I have already mentioned the Indian-rubber tree as indigenous
here. The island also produces a species of black pepper, and we have
reason to believe that cloves and nutmegs are to be met with. Yams are
cultivated in abundance; they are remarkably fine and large, and
constitute the principal food of the natives. Of this root they prepare
a food called foo-foo, made by beating a quantity of well boiled ones
together for a long time in a wooden mortar, which forms it into a
highly tenacious mass, somewhat similar to bird-lime, but this mode of
preparing them is not peculiar to Fernando Po, for it is commonly
practised among the African nations. There is also a variety of other
edible plants, particularly the eddoe, which is well known in the West
Indies, and whose leaves, when young, form a good substitute for
spinach. It is in general use when yams are out of season. A few
plantains have also been brought to us. Wild fruits, not generally
known, are found here; but there do not appear to be any oranges,
lemons, limes, pine-apples, bananas, sour-sop, or sugar-canes, which are
peculiar to such climates.
The following is the mode adopted for procuring the sap of the
palm-tree, commonly known by the name of palm-wine: the lower branches
of the tree having been cut off near the trunk, the sap exudes
abundantly from the extremity of the divided part, and is received in
calabashes appended thereto, which are secured from the aggressions of
insects by enclosing the mouth of the vessel with the end of the branch,
by leaves, and secured with wooden pins. The natives are remarkably
expert in ascending the tree for the purpose of attaching and removing
the calabashes; to assist them, they make use of a hoop sufficiently
large to encircle the trunk, and allow, also, the body to move freely
within it. This the individual moves upwards or downwards whenever he
wants to change the position of his feet, according as he wishes to
ascend or descend.
The juice, when procured, is, in the first instance, sweet, and not
unlike cyder, but rapidly undergoes a process of fermentation, by which,
in the course of two or three hours, it acquires a slightly vinous
flavour: in both those states I found it a very pleasant beverage. If
procured in the morning,[31] by the afternoon it becomes slightly acid,
and, on the following morning, perfectly sour: sufficient alcohol is,
however, formed to produce considerable exhilarating effect, when taken
in even moderate quantity; but, when drank inordinately, it stupefies
and intoxicates. The natives, notwithstanding they are fond of it, much
to their credit, rarely abuse this bountiful gift of nature, and, in
this respect, are well deserving of imitation by more civilized people.
The preparation of the palm-oil is conducted an follows:--A circular and
slightly concave hole, about a yard in diameter and a foot deep, is made
in the ground and paved with small stones. In this hole the palm-nuts
are beaten into a pulp, and the oil afterwards extracted. It is then
preserved and brought to market in native boxes, each containing from a
quart to a gallon.
The island abounds with monkeys, which are eaten by the natives, many
are of considerable size, some having been killed above 50 lb. weight.
Several species have been noticed, particularly one with long, shaggy,
jet-black hair; another with short silver-grey hair; and a third auburn,
inclining to gold, with the hair of an intermediate length; so that it
might be said we have gold and silver monkeys. The Kroomen, who are very
partial to their flesh, hunt them successfully with sticks and stones.
If any one makes them a present of a monkey, after feasting on the
carcase, they thankfully return the skin, well dried.
The only domestic animal on the island is a dog of a peculiar cur
species, very diminutive, and of a red and white colour; these we have
reason to believe the natives eat, and they use the under jaw for a
clapper to their rattles.
There is a great variety of fish; and also two species of turtle: viz.
the green, and hawksbill; the former good for eating, and the latter
only desirable for its shell.
It is now time that I revert to the proceedings which had taken place at
the settlement during my absence. The increased confidence of the
natives, and even violent proceedings, subsequently to our purchase of
land and establishment of a market, have already been noticed: the
numbers, indeed, which crowded within our boundary line, were immense;
and their conduct in wandering about the settlement, with a view of
inducing our people to make purchases, contrary to regulation, together
with the irregularities arising from the temptation to sell their tools,
to procure the means of privately feasting and tippling among the
bushes, became so obnoxious, that Captain Owen determined to remove the
market beyond the boundary line. He, therefore, directed the stakes to
be removed, and took measures for preventing any number of natives from
entering, in future, within the works, giving them to understand that no
barter could be made, excepting at the place appointed for that purpose.
The spot selected for the new market, was a point to the eastward beyond
Hay River. Although much pains were taken to convince the chiefs of the
advantages of this arrangement, it did not appear to give them
satisfaction; as, for several days, few natives were to be seen on
shore, and no canoes came off to the ship. It is probable that the
chiefs were holding a conference respecting the affair, a mode of
proceeding which they appear to adopt when any thing of moment occurs.
Two days afterwards Capt. Owen, accompanied by Capt. Harrison and Mr.
Jeffery, went to examine the shore to the eastward of Hay River, and
observing two canoes making towards a small cove, followed them, until
they landed at a village near the beach, the inhabitants of which
received him with every demonstration of friendly feeling, pawing the
gentlemen of the party with their clayey hands, and pressing upon them
so close, that they were also rubbing their bodies against their
clothes. At the same time, that they thus expressed their welcome, they
did not forget to solicit for iron, knives, and other presents. The
chief occupation of the people of this village was fishing; and as,
contrary to all other assemblages of the natives we had yet witnessed,
the larger proportion present consisted of women, it is probable that
the men were, at the time, engaged in that employment. Captain Owen
purchased a few articles from them, and expressed his intention of
establishing a market at the place; after which, he returned to his
boat, both parties appearing satisfied with each other.
Our market was for some days afterwards carried on at the above village
with reciprocal satisfaction, the supply of the several articles being
abundant. It was soon, however, evident, that the tribes who were
excluded by this arrangement, were by no means contented: and, as
Captain Owen was anxious to do justice to the whole, by giving each a
fair opportunity of barter, and as the immediate neighbourhood of the
settlement was more convenient for the greatest assemblage of persons
from the different tribes, he ordered, after first having a clear
understanding with the chiefs, a new market-place to be fenced in, near
the boundary line, which, from its situation and circumstances, ought to
be regarded as neutral ground. This establishment of a neutral ground,
was a measure of great importance and advantage, as we had now
discovered that the natives are not only divided into distinct tribes,
but that each tribe possesses a distinct portion of territory, and is
extremely jealous of admitting others within its boundaries. The new
market having been completed to-day, and a pole erected for the purpose
of hoisting a flag, during the appointed hours of barter, it was opened
about noon, with some ceremony, in consequence of hoisting, for the
first time on this island, an Union-jack, under the hearty cheers of a
large assembly, composed, perhaps, of as great a variety of people as
ever before witnessed the first display of the British flag in a foreign
land; comprising, besides our own countrymen and the inhabitants of the
island, natives of various parts of Africa. The ceremony concluded by
drinking palm-wine.
_Monday, Nov. 26_.--A circumstance unfortunately occurred to-day to
interrupt the good understanding so lately established. One of our black
labourers, who was occupied by himself in cutting wood within our lines,
had drunk some palm-wine, which had been offered to him, without his
having the means of paying for it; the natives, in consequence, forcibly
took from him the bill-hook he was using. The theft having been
communicated to Capt. Harrison, he assembled the chiefs who were at the
market, and explained the affair, when two of them, Chameleon and
Cut-throat, formed their respective followers into lines, each being
armed with his equipment of spears; a parley now took place between the
chiefs, who addressed their respective parties, with a view, no doubt,
of finding out the thieves. A man, having the appearance of a priest,
next harangued the whole body: each party in succession sang a war-song,
the chiefs going on one, and the men on both knees. Each party now
marched three times round a space which described a circle; after which,
those under Chameleon suddenly started off at full speed, and were
immediately followed by Cut-throat and his party, to the boundary of Hay
River. The stragglers of the former, in their flight, disencumbered
themselves of their yams, and calabashes of palm-wine, which the others,
on coming up, amused themselves with breaking to pieces. Thus ended this
curious specimen of war-like movements, which might appropriately be
called the Battle of the Calabashes; and is sufficient to prove that a
system of organization exists among the people, and confirms our former
opinions on this subject: for, on our first landing at Baracouta, we
perceived they had guards regularly stationed to watch and follow our
movements. This system, I have some reason to believe, extends itself
into the heart of the country, for, during my visit in the interior, I
was sensible the people were running about at all hours of the night,
ready for action. This may probably be the result of necessity, as the
different tribes, if we are to judge from the numerous large scars in
various parts of the body, are evidently engaged in frequent warfare
with each other.
_Tuesday, 27_.--Mr. Jeffery held a market to-day, at the village near
the beach; but an old chief, who had been named Bottle-nose, was
apparently, out of humour, probably in consequence of the affair at the
border-market the day before.
_Wednesday, 28_.--At the conclusion of the market, which was held at the
Bottle-nose village to-day, a party of chiefs came hallooing after Mr.
Jeffery, at the moment of his leaving the shore, but he did not offer to
return. They then followed along the beach in the direction of his boat,
until they nearly reached Hay River. He now perceived they held
something in their hands, which they gave him to understand, by signs,
was intended for him. This induced him to pull for the shore again, when
he found they had brought back the unfortunate bill-hook that had been
carried away on the preceding Monday: the men who had stolen it,
however, were not forthcoming. Mr. Jeffery conducted them to Clarence,
where an interview took place between Captains Owen and Harrison, and
some of the chiefs, at which the former directed a couple of iron hoops
to be given as a reward for the recovery of the bill-hook. After this,
several chiefs came on board, bringing with them a sheep as a
peace-offering, which the Captain immediately ordered to be killed for
their own entertainment. In this operation, they assisted very
effectually; for one of them took his knife, and after skinning the head
and neck, the animal being yet alive, cut its throat and extracted the
windpipe, which was given to our friend Cut-throat, who first slapped it
for some time about his shoulders, and afterwards, having merely warmed
it on the fire, devoured it voraciously. The skin being removed, others
of the natives tore off with their teeth, and ate the portions of raw
flesh which remained attached to it; while some cut off portions from
the animal, and disposed of them in the same manner. The remainder of
the body was partially dressed on the coals, and dispatched by the party
generally. Notwithstanding this demonstration of their high relish for
raw meat, it is remarkable that two of the chiefs, Cut-throat and
Good-tempered Jack, who were honoured with a second dinner at Captain
Owen's table, when presented with meat supposed to be done to their
taste, shewed a repugnance to it, and wished it to be put on the fire
again. Cut-throat had shewn so much disinterested zeal in our favour, on
various occasions, and particularly in the affair of the bill-hook, that
Captain Owen took the opportunity of rewarding him for it, by presenting
him with some iron, and a pair of shoes. It is singular, that he is the
only native we have, as yet, been conversant with, who never begged for
any thing.
_Thursday, 29_.--Our little establishment (considering the few hands,
and the many irons we have in the fire,) is making a rapid progress. The
greatest activity pervades every department. The whole of our people,
whether ashore or afloat, live uncommonly well, having plenty of yams
and palm-wine served out to them daily, with fowls and fish
occasionally, which are extra provisions, supplied gratuitously; the
former being purchased from the natives with iron hoop, the latter taken
by our fishermen. We have also caught a few hawksbill, and green turtle,
and occasionally dig turtles' eggs from the sand on the beach.
_Saturday, Dec. 1_.--Our establishment has hitherto been remarkably
healthy; the sickness which has occurred, being almost entirely the
result of accidental wounds, or the bites of musquitos and sand-flies;
the latter, being irritated by rubbing, have produced, in some
instances, very serious sores, which have baffled the greatest attention
of our surgeons: one feature in these ulcers is, that frequent changes
of applications are required, no individual remedy appearing to agree,
at farthest, for more than five days; generally, but three or four; nor
has any kindly disposition to heal shewn itself, until a degree of
salivation has been produced, by giving the patient a grain of calomel,
night and morning. Both my companions in the country are unfortunately
on the sick list,--Elwood, with remittent fever, with which he was
seized immediately after his return; the other, Debenham, in consequence
of getting his legs bitten by insects. I have myself, thank God, escaped
without illness or injury of any kind.
_Sunday, 2_.--Two chiefs, Cut-throat and Bottle-nose, with some other
natives of consequence, dined with Captain Owen to-day, who was
entertaining a party of the officers and other gentlemen attached to the
establishment. The natives always appear particularly gratified in being
allowed to dine on board, and Captain Owen, as a matter of policy, in
tending to promote a friendly intercourse, frequently indulges them in
this way; it is offering, however, no trifling sacrifice at the shrines
of the gods of friendship and cleanliness, to sit down with them, for
their bodies not unfrequently emitted a most offensive odour,
particularly when much heated by exertion, and the influence of a
tropical climate. Imagine the action of these upon a mixture of
perspiration, rancid palm-oil, clay and dust, the whole producing an
effluvium little inferior to that which Sir John Falstaff describes to
have been generated in his ducking-basket, 'The rankest compound of
villanous smells that ever offended nostrils.' Besides, as our guests
were all dressed in buff, it was necessary to clean, after them, the
chairs and other places on which they might happen to sit. Cut-throat,
and one of his tribe, slept on board, on a sail placed between two guns.
_Monday, 3_.--After breakfast, our visitors took their leave,
accompanied by Mr. Jeffery, who, in consequence of a previous
arrangement, was going to spend a couple of days with them, at a village
about eight miles in the country, and from which he returned at the
expiration of the appointed time, well pleased with the attention and
hospitality that had been shewn him. A remuneration of bar-iron was the
price of these civilities.
Our fishing party have taken in their seine to-day, two flying-fish of
the gurnet species, and a hawksbill turtle. A party of natives from King
Cove, headed by a chief named Toby Limp, came on board with a native
woman, who was far advanced in that happy teeming state which is
peculiar to females in all parts of the world. This was, in fact, one of
the few instances of any female coming on board: for, although old
Bottle-nose had once brought two alongside the ship, he kept them
concealed at the bottom of his canoe: we have some reason, however, to
believe that his original intention was to have honoured us with a full
introduction, but that he waived it in consequence of finding the chief
of another tribe in close conference with Captain Owen. With respect to
Mr. Toby Limp's lady, the general opinion, drawn from various signs and
appearances, was, that she was intended as a sort of present, or
peace-offering, to the Captain; and what amused us exceedingly, was the
peculiar mode which Toby adopted of recommending her more fully to his
good opinion, by frequently passing his hand over her abdomen, while,
regarding Captain Owen with a most animated countenance, he seemed to
express something like the following: 'Look here! surely this is worthy
of your attention.' But, however powerful the native charms of this lady
might have been, and in spite of the above felicitous mode of 'showing
her off,' the speculation proved totally ineffectual. Another
circumstance concurred in diminishing the effect of any impression that
might have been made, namely, that three or four clay-coloured chiefs
appeared to be co-partners with Mr. Toby in the affections of the lady.
The whole party passed the night together on board, between two guns. So
much for the delicacy of sentiment among savages.
The following is a specimen of the delicacy of this people in another
respect. On the occasion of Captain Owen visiting the brother of the
King of Baracouta, a calabash of palm-wine was produced, which, in
consequence of some imperfection in the vessel, leaked out its contents;
in order to cure this defect, the hospitable chief took off his hat,
and, scraping with his thumb-nail a portion of the clay and grease from
his head, effectually checked further leakage, with this _veritable_
Fernando Po cement.
_Tuesday, 4_.--An increase in the number of the sick has been reported
to-day, several of the men on board, and of the mechanics and labourers
on shore being affected with ulcers of the hospital gangrene kind. One
seaman of the Eden, has had his leg amputated above the knee, in
consequence of the nature of the ulceration. Having gone on shore this
morning, I had the pleasure of finding the works in rapid progress; the
floor plates were being laid in one of the frame houses; the roof of a
large saw-pit was also being put on; while a great part of the labourers
were occupied in bringing up some frames of houses which had lately been
landed from the transport. We were treated to-day with a monkey for
dinner, cooked in the manner of an Irish stew, with yams as a substitute
for potatoes: I must admit that I found it by no means a disagreeable
food, which is not to be wondered at from its being a very clean animal,
living on vegetable substances. Our fishermen have taken one green, and
one hawksbill turtle; also a skate, weighing ninety pounds; and two
buckets full of other fish of various descriptions, principally mullet.
Lieutenant Vidal brought a native on board, charged with the following
crimes: namely, stealing a dinner knife from on board the steam-vessel;
and an attempt, in conjunction with others, to plunder our forge, on
Adelaide Island. Lieutenant Vidal, fortunately passing in that
direction, observed a canoe lying on the beach. This he secured. The men
belonging to it, however, contrived to make their escape in another
canoe, but left behind them two of their hats. The prisoner had the
audacity to venture on board the steam-vessel, in hopes of recovering
the lost canoe; he was immediately attempted to be seized, but he
contrived, in consequence of his greasy skin, to give our men the slip,
and effect his escape. Yet he was not deterred from making a second
attempt, having, as he imagined, sufficiently disguised himself with a
different hat and head-dress; but he was immediately recognised, and,
having been enticed into the cabin, effectually secured. Captain Owen
ordered him to be put into irons, with the intention of keeping him
under confinement for a week, and then dismissing him with some slight
punishment.
_Wednesday, 5_.--A brig was observed in the offing which had the
appearance of a slaver. The steam-vessel was immediately ordered in
chase, and returned in the evening, reporting her to be an English brig,
from Liverpool, bound for the Cameroons.
_Thursday, 6_.--Our tender, the Horatio, sailed this week for Sierra
Leone. Among other supernumeraries sent in her, were a serjeant and two
privates of the Royal African Corps. The conduct of these men was so
notoriously bad, that Captain Owen apprehended their example would
corrupt the black soldiers with whom they were associated. I cannot
avoid again calling in question the policy of our Government in sending
out condemned soldiers to the Colonial African Corps; for nothing tends
more to degrade the general character of our country, in the opinion of
the native Africans, who are too apt to form their estimate of our
morality, from these specimens of their masters.
_Friday, 7_.--The unloading of the transport which came with us from
England was completed to-day. Among other stores, she brought out the
frames of a block-house; six large and ten small dwelling-houses; six
long eighteen pounders, and two long nines.
_Saturday, 8_.--Lieutenant Caldwell, of the Royal Marines, died this
morning, and was buried at four in the afternoon. He had never been in
health since our departure from England, or even been on shore,
excepting for an hour or two at Sierra Leone. He was to have returned by
the first opportunity to England, and, with that view, had, previously
to his death, been removed from the Eden to the steam-vessel.
_Monday, 10_.--Our fishing party took to-day no less than ten turtle in
their seine. The native prisoner having now been confined six days out
of the seven awarded him. Captain Owen thought it better to inflict his
intended punishment of thirty-nine lashes to-day, in order that his
immediate rage might have time to subside, before being set at liberty
on the morrow. It was accordingly carried into effect; and, although he
made a most lusty bellowing on the occasion, the whip-cord appeared to
make very little impression on his thick skin. I believe he deemed
himself peculiarly fortunate in coming off so well, as, judging from his
signs, he expected, at least, to have had his throat cut. During his
confinement, he roared and blubbered frequently, particularly whenever
he was sensible of any canoe approaching the ship. His countrymen,
however, appeared to care little about him; on the contrary, they
frequently mimicked his noises, as if in ridicule. His father, indeed,
and one or two other relatives, took some interest in his fate, and
offered ransom for him.
_Tuesday, Dec. 11_.--Captain Owen, at an early hour, went on board the
steam-vessel to commence his intended survey of the island, and did me
the honour of inviting me to accompany him. At seven o'clock we left
Maidstone Bay, and proceeded towards a place to the eastward of Point
William, where Captain Owen intended to land his native prisoner, and
from whence he was expecting to receive on board Cut-throat,
Bottle-nose, and another chief, known by the name of Good-tempered Jack.
The two latter only kept their promise, but, on coming on board, they
were so impressed with fear and astonishment, particularly when the
paddles began to move, that their hearts failed them, and they retreated
to the boat with all possible celerity. The prisoner was allowed to
accompany them; but no sooner did the boat approach the shore, than,
doubting the reality of his freedom, until entirely out of our reach, he
jumped overboard, and, alternately swimming and diving, as if to elude
pursuit, he, at length, reached the shore. About a week afterwards, he
ventured to make his appearance on the beach, accompanied by
Bottle-nose, but was careful not to approach our party, until the
officer on duty threw out a signal of encouragement, when he came
forward, exchanged his palm-wine for iron hoop, and afterwards joined in
the laugh with those around him.
Pursuing our voyage, about noon, a party of natives were observed on the
beach, and Capt. Owen determined on paying them a visit, ordering a boat
to be lowered for the purpose. Unfortunately, however, it being
necessary, while in the act of lowering, to make a few retrograde
strokes of the paddle, the boat was drawn into the vortex on the right
hand, and nearly cut in two. By this accident, one of the seamen who
were in it, was thrown within the paddle, but, miraculously, taken out
unhurt; another made his escape on board the vessel; while two more were
set adrift in the sea; they were, however, soon picked up by a second
boat, which was instantly lowered, and which also succeeded in
recovering the wreck of the first. On approaching the shore, the surf
was found to be so strong, that Captain Owen was obliged to communicate
with the natives from the boat.
A few yams were purchased for some pieces of iron-hoop, which the
natives were so eager to become possessed of, that, daring the exchange,
they trembled exceedingly from the intensity of their desire. A piece
was intentionally thrown into the sea, with the view of giving them a
scramble: they all immediately darted with the utmost eagerness into the
water, and exerted themselves most strenuously, until one had the luck
to find it; when the remainder left him in quiet possession, without
evincing the slightest disposition to deprive him of his treasure.
A small island lay off the shore of this place, which Capt. Owen did not
consider of sufficient importance to induce him to give it a name. We
now continued our survey along the south-eastern side of the island,
advancing at the rate of six or seven miles an hour, until half-past
five in the evening, when we arrived a-breast of the south-eastern point
(Cape Barrow): we then took our bearings, let the steam down, and stood
off the land, under easy sail, for the night.
_Wednesday, Dec. 12_.--An hour after midnight we tacked, and stood
towards the land; at daylight, got the steam on, and furled the sails,
and at eight in the morning we were off the same point at which our
survey of the previous evening had concluded, the current having, during
the night, carried us to the south-west, at the rate of about a mile and
a half per hour. The part of the island we were now coasting along, was
possessed of a very considerable degree of sublimity, the shore being
bold and rocky, with various picturesque cataracts descending from the
mountains; and the whole face of the country having a wild appearance.
During the forenoon, we had two high peaks in view, one of which Captain
Owen named after Dr. Burn, the surgeon of the Eden, who first observed
it. About half-past ten, we passed a snug little cove, where the natives
were occupied in building canoes, and where we observed a considerable
quantity of wood piled up, intended for making paddles. Soon afterwards,
we passed the entrance of a river, which, out of compliment to myself,
Captain Owen named Holman River. A remarkably large stone lay on the
beach near its mouth. At noon, we were off a bluff cape, which received
the name of Cape Eden. At this time our previously fine weather
disappeared, and we had, throughout the remainder of the day, a very
hazy atmosphere, with occasional rain.
About one o'clock, a rakish-looking schooner made her appearance, which,
from her manoeuvres, such as frequently altering her course, as if she
wished to avoid us, we suspected to be a slave-vessel; we, therefore,
made full sail in chase, and at three o'clock, had approached near
enough to fire a gun at her, when she immediately hoisted English
colours, brought to, and proved to be the African, Captain John Smith,
twenty-five days from Sierra Leone, and seven from Cape Coast Castle,
laden with provisions for the colony, and having on board
Hospital-Assistant Cowen, of the Medical Staff, who had volunteered to
join the establishment. Captain Owen, having received his letters,
ordered her to proceed to Maidstone Bay, while we stood in for George's
Bay, on the western side of the island, where we came to anchor soon
after four o'clock.
_Thursday, Dec. 13_.--Soon after breakfast, Dr. Burn landed with three
men, and proceeded to a native village, about three miles from the
beach, where he was kindly received by an elderly chief, who appeared
well acquainted with our countrymen. He could pronounce 'King George,'
and a few other English words, and wore as an ornament, suspended from
his neck, a brass plate, which had belonged to the cap of a soldier of
the Royal African Corps; he had also another brass plate with G.R. upon
it. This chief, with his son, accompanied Dr. Burn on board, and was
entertained by Captain Owen with fish, yams, and palm-wine; at length,
he began to express much anxiety to be gone, and was sent on shore.
During the morning, Captain Owen and Lieutenant Badgeley occupied
themselves with surveying the bay: after this, we went ashore, when many
of the natives assembled round us, and behaved themselves very civilly,
although they were, as usual, importunate for iron; offering in exchange
yams, palm-wine, fowls, &c. &c. Only one canoe came off to us at this
place, containing twelve men, who had a few yams with them, which they
appeared very indifferent about parting with; at least, they demanded
very exorbitant prices, as a piece of iron for a single yam, for which,
at Maidstone Bay, we could have purchased eight or ten. We caught here a
large dog-fish, a species of ground shark.
_Friday, Dec. 14_.--At day-break we were again under weigh, and stood
out of George's Bay, making a little to the southward of it, for the
purpose of resuming our survey at the point where we left off on the
preceding day, in order to give chase to the schooner; we then returned
into the bay, running close along, and surveying its shores, leaving it
at its northern extremity, and passing round Goat Island; we then stood
for Maidstone Bay, where we anchored at one in the afternoon, having
surveyed the intermediate coast, as well us the whole extent of the bay,
from Cape Bullen to Point William, from whence we had commenced the
survey. Thus we completed the circumnavigation of the island.
I shall conclude my account of this short voyage, by giving a few of the
geographical and meteorological observations, which have been made since
our arrival, with every due attention to accuracy.
Names of Places. | N. lat. | E. lon.
-----------------------------------------|------------|-----------
Cape Bullen | 3° 47' 3" | 8° 39' 4"
Point William, or Clarence Town | 3 45 8 | 8 45 0
Cape Horatio | 3 46 25 | 8 54 4
Cape Barrow | 3 11 5 | 8 40 4
Point Charles (S.W. of St. George's Bay) | 3 26 9 | 8 27 7
Goat Island (N.E. of St. George's Bay) | 3 26 9 | 8 32 8
Cape Badgeley, or West Point | 3 19 0 | 8 24 7
Cape Vidal, or East Point | 3 39 3 | 8 56 3
Peak of Clarence Mountain | 3 34 6 | 8 41 5
Peak of the Cameroon Mountain, | 4 13 5 | 9 9 5
on the Mainland of Africa | |
-----------------------------------------|------------|-----------
The Cameroon Mountain bears, from Clarence Peak, N. 32 deg. 30 min. E.
at a distance of 48 miles; and from Clarence Town, N. 27 deg. E., the
distance being 31-1/2 miles; while the nearest point from the mainland
is only about 20 miles. From the proximity of this island to the
equinoctial, there is only 14 minutes difference between the longest and
shortest day; and the temperature is so equable, that the thermometer,
throughout the year, never varies more than 10 degrees in the 24 hours.
The spring-tides have a rise and fall between seven and eight feet; and
it is high water all round the island, at the full and change of the
moon, at half after four o'clock. During our absence, the first house
erected in the settlement, had been completed; and Mr. Glover, who was
to inhabit it, had invited his friends to the house-warming on the day
of our return. This house consisted of only one floor, twenty feet
square, and built on piles, with a store-room beneath, the sides of
which are constituted by the piles. Ten other houses, of similar form
and dimensions, are in progress of construction, besides six larger
ones, of forty feet square, and the block-house, which measures fifty by
thirty; the whole consisting of single floors, with store-rooms
underneath.
_Saturday, Dec. 15_.--The system of labour among the workmen is, to
commence at six in the morning, and leave off at eleven for dinner,
recommencing at one, and concluding at half-past five; after which,
during the remainder of the day, they are allowed to amuse themselves.
The labourers and mechanics have been formed into a militia corps, under
the command of Capt. Harrison, with the rank of Major, and are
occasionally taught to march _en militaire_, and exercised with the
pike, which is, at present, their only weapon; the Eden, having but
twenty muskets to spare, which have been distributed among the
artificers who came out with us from England.
This afternoon, our transport, the Diadem, sailed for Cape Coast Castle.
In the evening, the bugles at Clarence sounded an alarm, in consequence
of the flames of some burning brush-wood accidentally communicating with
one of the huts. It was fortunately soon extinguished, without any
serious injury having been sustained.
_Monday, Dec. 17_.--The Diadem, which sailed on Saturday, was detained
during the whole of yesterday within sight of the island; but, about
noon to-day, a fresh wind springing up from the eastward, she was soon
out of sight. A few days since, our gardener, while digging in Paradise,
turned up a Spanish copper-coin of Charles III., dated 1774, probably a
relic of some ship which had touched here for water.
_Tuesday, Dec. 18_.--Anderson, a black soldier of the Royal African
Corps, whom I have previously mentioned as an interpreter on our arrival
here, was to-day found sleeping on his post, and committed to the
guard-house, from whence he contrived to escape into the woods, with a
view of seeking protection from the natives. Another black soldier was
punished this morning for having quitted his post, and lost his musket,
a few days since, in the following manner. A party of Kroomen being
employed in cutting down wood, some of the natives contrived to steal an
axe and bill-hook. The theft, however, was immediately detected, and a
scuffle ensued, during which this soldier, who was a sentinel near the
spot, threw down his musket, and ran away. The musket was taken
possession of by a native, but subsequently recovered by a Krooman, not,
however, without his first receiving a severe cut on his hand by the
knife of the native. After throwing a few spears, one of which slightly
wounded the head Krooman, the natives got clear off with the bill-hook
and axe. A spear was also thrown at Mr. Davis, the master's assistant,
who was accidentally passing at the time, and whom one of the natives
had even the audacity to attempt to make prisoner; a fate which he only
escaped, from his shirt giving way under the grasp.
When this affair was made known to Captain Harrison, he immediately
proceeded to the market-place, and finding some chiefs there,
communicated to them what had happened. Cut-throat, who was present,
instantly arose, and, after making a speech to his countrymen, formed
them into line, each being armed with the usual number of spears. After
singing a war-song, and making three circular tours, or evolutions, the
whole started off in quest of the thieves, and, in less than an hour,
returned with the axe and bill-hook. Some few days after this event, one
of the natives, who had taken an active part in it, had the effrontery
to enter our lines for the purpose of selling his palm-wine, when he was
immediately secured by the Kroomen, and conducted a prisoner to Captain
Harrison, who sent him on board the Eden, where he was put into irons;
however, this man had committed a previous offence, namely, having
struck Mr. Jeffery two severe blows with a stick, about a month since,
which compelled him to give up the pursuit of a fellow, who had been
endeavouring to impose two calabashes of water upon him, instead of
palm-wine.
During the last week, we have had little communication with the natives,
and our supplies of palm-wine, &c., have consequently run short. This
circumstance, we are informed, is attributable to their being occupied
in the yam-plantations. I am inclined to infer, that, if the necessity
really exists for thus employing the whole of the inhabitants in the
culture of this root, the population of the island is not so great as we
have been led to consider it.
_Wednesday, 19_.--At half-past one this morning, a loud splash was heard
in the water, succeeded by the cry of, 'A man overboard.' A boat was
immediately sent, and from the phosphorescence of the water, some one
was discovered swimming towards the shore. On approaching him, he turned
round in the direction of the Eden; and, when within twenty yards of the
ship, he all at once disappeared, and was not seen afterwards. On
inquiry, it was found that the native prisoner who had been confined in
irons on the forecastle, for his participation in the affray I have so
lately described, had contrived to effect his escape. To accomplish
this, he had put his hand down the scuttle over the coppers, and taken
from thence the iron that turns the handles of the dischargers. With the
point of this he had contrived to break off one of the sides of the
padlock which secured his fetters, and thus setting himself at liberty,
he crossed the deck to the gangway, opposite to where the sentry was
placed, when he mounted the railings, and immediately plunged into the
sea. It is singular, with respect to this prisoner, that his countrymen
shewed very little solicitude about him: and we therefore had reason to
think that he was no favourite with them. When they did inquire after
him, it was to know whether we had not cut his throat. The King of
Baracouta's brother once asked Captain Owen what he intended to do with
him; and, on being informed that he meant to keep him for a time in
irons, and then, after a gentle flagellation, dismiss him, expressed his
astonishment at this lenity, and made signs that we ought to cut his
throat. It is true we sometimes had, as might be expected, very
different versions of the signs of these natives; but, in the present
instance, they could not well be misunderstood.
Captain Owen, attended by a small party of marines, went on shore at an
early hour, to hold a Court of Inquiry on twelve African soldiers, for
refusing to attend the punishment of their comrade (an Ashantee) on the
preceding day. They were found guilty, and sentenced to receive three
hundred lashes each. After a part of this punishment had been inflicted,
they were sent on board the Eden.
_Thursday, 20_.--Anderson, the African soldier, who escaped from
confinement on Tuesday, was met in the woods this morning by a serjeant
of his company, to whom he immediately surrendered himself, and who
placed him under charge of another soldier. Apprehensive, however, of
the consequences of his double offence, he shortly after contrived to
give his guard the slip, and again effected his escape. The above
mentioned serjeant also detected a labourer in the act of lowering a
piece of iron from a cliff, with the intention of selling it to the
natives, whose canoes were lying off the beach. Having first secured the
offender, he then fired his musket at one of the canoes, without
injuring, or intending to injure, the men whom it contained, and the aim
was so unerring, that the ball penetrated through the bottom of the
canoe, in such a manner that it immediately began to fill with water;
this terrified the natives so much, that they all leaped overboard, and
swimming to another canoe, left their own, with her cargo of sheep,
fowls, &c. to its fate. This might truly be termed a good hit.
In the afternoon I went on shore at Adelaide Point, where, it is said,
the Spaniards had a battery. Whether this be true or not, the spot is
well adapted for one; it is now entirely covered over with remarkably
thick brushwood, which Captain Owen has ordered to be cleared off, with
the intention of forming a road, through the woods, to Longfield.
Hospital-Assistant Cowen found to-day a silver Spanish coin, in
Paradise, near the same spot where the copper one before mentioned was
discovered, and which bears the same date.
_Friday, 21_.--This morning, Matthew Elwood died, after an illness of 25
days. His complaint was a remittent fever, taken on our short journey
into the interior. On the third day after our return, he took to his
bed, from which he never rose again, excepting on the day previous to
his death, when, under a state of mental aberration, he secretly took
off his shirt, and threw himself from out of the port-hole near his bed
into the sea; he was soon taken up, but his delirium continued until he
expired. At five this afternoon he was buried in Paradise. My other
companion, John Debenham, has also been ill ever since our return, with
an ulcerated leg, occasioned by the bites of insects, and which, at
present, shews little disposition to heal.
_Saturday, 22_.--A sheep was killed this morning, one of whose hind
quarters weighed four pounds and two ounces, and which, although not
fat, was the largest native sheep we have yet met with. About a
fortnight since five were slaughtered, which altogether weighed but
sixty pounds, and, consequently, averaged only twelve pounds each.
_Sunday, 23_.--During the last week we have experienced much thunder and
lightning. Our fishermen attribute their want of success to this cause;
for the fishery has been unusually unproductive. Early this morning it
began to rain, and for an hour continued to do so more heavily than any
of us had before witnessed, after which; a smaller rain continued until
eleven o'clock, when it cleared off, and the remainder of the day was
fine. In the evening, a number of native fishing boats assembled between
Point William, and the Eden, and as their proceedings on the occasion
particularly attracted our attention, I shall take this opportunity of
describing the peculiar method of fishing which they make use of.
A number of canoes, containing from three to twelve men, put out to sea,
to look for a shoal of fish; when discovered, they surround it on all
sides, shouting and splashing the water with their paddles in every
direction, endeavouring to drive it towards a centre. This done, they
commence fishing, using for the bait a small fish with which they are
previously provided, and they occasionally throw a few of these into the
midst of the shoal. The fish appear to take this bait very eagerly; but,
as the hooks which the natives use, are made of bone or nails, and
without barbs,[32] not more than half the number struck in the first
instance, are eventually secured. Two men paddle the canoe in the
direction of the shoal, while the remainder are occupied in fishing.
Captain Owen went in his boat, and pulled towards the party; we were
much interested with their operations and success. At his invitation,
after the fishing had concluded, one of the canoes brought us some very
fine ones, a species of bream, weighing from two to three pounds each.
This was the first time I ever knew fish caught, in deep water at sea,
with a rod and line.
_Monday, Dec. 24_.--In the course of the day, a party of natives brought
on board three black men, inhabitants of the Island of St. Thomas, who,
six months before, had taken refuge in Fernando Po, under the following
circumstances:--During the time they were engaged in fishing, a strong
wind arose, which drove them out to sea. Unable to contend against the
power of the gale, they deemed it prudent to keep the canoe before it,
and even assist with their paddles, in hopes of sooner falling in with
land, and thus escape starvation. In this manner they continued drifting
for eight days without fresh water, or any kind of provisions, excepting
the few fish they had caught before the gale arose, the greater part of
which were thrown overboard, in consequence of their getting into a
state of excessive putridity. At length they came in sight of Fernando
Po. Some of the natives came off to them in their canoes, and took them
ashore on the eastern part of the island. Here they had been compelled
to remain, devoid of all hopes of returning, until they saw our
steam-vessel making its late circumnavigation of the island. This opened
to them a new and cheering prospect; and they determined to attempt
reaching our settlement overland, by travelling at night, and secreting
themselves during the day, in order that the natives might not interrupt
their escape. Previously to the discovery of our steam-vessel, they had
frequently heard the reports of our morning and evening gun: this had
led them to the belief, that some Europeans were resident on the island,
and now afforded them the proper line of direction for their march.
After travelling for three nights, and at the time of their approaching
our settlement, they were discovered by the natives, who, in the first
instance, attempted to force them back to their former residence. The
poor creatures, however, made so much noise and resistance, that,
apprehending the fact would transpire and excite our displeasure, it was
at length determined to conduct them to us. One of them was a Fantee,
and had resided at the Dutch settlement of Elmina, where a black man of
our party, who was no less a personage than a son of the King of Cape
Coast, although now discharging the humble office of gun-room steward of
the Eden, had frequently seen him.
At the time these men arrived on board, several natives were with us,
and among the rest, our friend Cut-throat. No sooner did the Fantee fix
his eyes upon him, than, to the astonishment of all present, they began
to flash with indignation, while the countenance of Cut-throat assumed
proportionably the expression of sheepishness. The cause of this proved
to be, that, when they first landed on the island, our old friend had
stolen a shirt from him; in other respects, however, I believe they had
little reason to complain of the treatment they experienced: for they
had not been compelled to work, excepting occasionally assisting in
fishing, and they had been permitted to reside by themselves; it is
true, on the other hand, that they had little hospitality to be grateful
for, having been compelled to subsist on a scanty supply of yams and
palm-wine.
During the last week, the natives had, without any apparent reason,
absented themselves from the settlement; to-day, however, they returned
in great numbers, and among the rest, our old friend Cut-throat,
exhibiting a large gash on his forehead. He gave us to understand, that
there had been some warfare between the various tribes, concerning a
quantity of iron, probably that which Chameleon's party had stolen from
Messrs. Vidal and Jeffery.
_Tuesday, Dec. 25_.--This being Christmas-day, Captain Owen selected it
for taking formal possession of the settlement, in the name, and on
behalf of his Sovereign, George the Fourth. At seven o'clock in the
morning, accompanied by most of his officers and ship's company, he went
on shore for this purpose. The different parties of our colony being
assembled, the whole marched in procession, from the border parade, in
the following order, with bugles, drums and fifes, playing alternately:--
Captains Owen and Harrison,
Surgeon Cowen and Lieutenant Holman,
Messrs. Jeffery and Carter,
The Surgeon and Purser of the Eden,
The European Volunteers, commanded by Lieutenant Glover,
Lieutenant Vidal, with half the Eden's ship's company,
and the Midshipmen of his division,
The Colours, carried by Mr. Wood,
The Band,
Lieutenant Badgeley, with half the Eden's ship's company,
and the Midshipmen of his division,
The Marines and Royal African Corps, under Lieutenant Mends,
The Clarence Militia, under their respective Officers:
First Division--Lieutenant Morrison,
Second Division--Lieutenant Abbott,
Third Division--Ensign Matthews,
Tom Liverpool's party, under Bell,
Ben Gundo's party, under Miller.
On arriving at the Point, the different divisions were formed around the
flag-staff; and the colours having been first hoisted, the following
Proclamation was read:--
'_Proclamation_,--By William Fitzwilliam Owen, Esq. Captain of His
Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando Po.
'His Majesty, George the Fourth, King of Great Britain and Ireland,
has been graciously pleased to direct that a settlement by his
Majesty's subjects should be established on the Island of Fernando Po,
and his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral having selected me for
the performance of this service, the formation of the said settlement
has been entrusted to me, under the title and denomination of
Superintendent.
'In obedience to the orders of his Royal Highness the Lord High
Admiral, I directed the first operations of clearing the land on this
point (Point William) to be commenced on the first day of November
last, and on the tenth and twelfth following, purchased from the
native chiefs, and from the tenants of one small part of that ground
which I desired to occupy, the full right of property and possession,
for which iron was paid to the amount of three bars, and land-marks
fixed by the native chiefs, to shew the extent of ground so bought.
'_Therefore_, in the name of God, by whose grace we have been thus
successful, and for the sole use and benefit of his most gracious
Majesty, George the Fourth, King of Great Britain and Ireland, I do,
by this public act, take possession of all the land bought by me as
aforesaid, under the future name of _Clarence_, being all the land
bounded on the north by the sea, on the east and south by Hay-brook,
and on the west by a line running from the sea due south, by the
magnetic needle, or south-south-east, by the pole of the world, until
it joins Hay-brook, the Peninsula of Point William included in the
same, being in north latitude about three degrees and forty-five
minutes, and east longitude from the Observatory of Greenwich, about
eight degrees and forty-five minutes, and the aforesaid western
boundary being taken from a tree marked by the natives, which is two
hundred and eighteen yards from the gate of the ditch across the gorge
of Point William, and bearing, therefore, south twenty and a half
degrees west by the magnetic needle, or south two degrees and thirty
minutes east by the pole of the world.
'And, in testimony of this public act, I command all persons present
to attach their names to this Proclamation, as witnesses of the same.
'Done by me on Point William, in the settlement of Clarence, on the
Island of Fernando Po, this one thousand eight hundred and
twenty-seventh anniversary of the birth of our blessed Saviour and
Redeemer, and in the eighth year of the reign of his present Majesty.
'WILLIAM FITZWILLIAM OWEN,
_Captain of his Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando
Po._
'GOD SAVE THE KING.'