Native Simplicity--Resources of the Blind--Royal Village--Gathering of
Natives--Native Priests--Royal Feast--Inhospitable Treatment--
Uncomfortable Quarters--Vocabulary of the Native Language--Beauty of
the Female Character--Women of Fernando Po--Anecdotes--Aspect of the
Country--Productions--Preparations for the Settlement--Discovery of a
Theft--Mimic War Customs--Native Chiefs--Female on Board--Monkey for
Dinner--Flogging a Prisoner--Accident to a Sailor--A Voyage of Survey
round the Island--River named after the Author--Geographical and
Meteorological Observations--Insubordination--A Man Overboard--Deserter
taken--Death of the Interpreter--Method of Fishing--Visitors from St.
Thomas--Ceremony of taking Possession of Fernando Po--Interview with a
Native Chief--Celebration Dinner--Indirect Roguery--Chief and his
Wife--Hospital near Point William--The Guana--Mistake at Sea--
Suggestions on the Slave-Trade--Fishing Stakes--Schooner on a Mud-flat
_Thursday, Nov. 15_.--Soon after landing this morning, I fell in with a
party of natives, with whom I shook hands, as usual, when a young
female, whom I had frequently met in the market-place, with her
parents, perceiving that I did not immediately recognize her as an old
acquaintance, with the most natural simplicity, placed my hand on her
bosom, in the presence of her relations and countrymen, who all laughed
heartily, and appeared to enjoy my astonishment very much. If, however,
any of us had ventured upon such a liberty of our own accord, the men
would have been highly indignant, for they were extremely jealous of
their women, and did not like us to shew them any marked attention, by
purchasing their articles first, or making them a present in preference
to themselves:--such a distinction, in contradiction to the usages of
civilized society, being considered derogatory by these savage lords of
the creation.
Matthew Elwood, the young man who had been sent into the interior,
returned to-day, and I am afraid without having derived much advantage
from his journey. I expect, however, an opportunity of adverting more
fully to its results at a future time. A quantity of bricks were landed
for the purpose of constructing a forge. The natives soon found out
that they possessed the property of sharpening their knives, and began
to shew a very eager desire to become possessed of them.
_Friday, 16_.--The natives have crowded upon us in such numbers, that
we have taken up the stakes which enclosed the market, with the
intention of holding it in future without the boundary line. Several
unpleasant occurrences have taken place, partly the fault of our own
people, who have been criminal enough to sell their tools, and partly
of the natives, who have been eager to purchase them. The following
are, perhaps, the average terms on which our barter has been conducted:
an axe would purchase a sheep, or a goat; and three or four inches of
iron hoop, from two to four fowls, from eight to twelve yams, or two or
three calabashes of palm-wine, each containing about one gallon.
_Saturday, 17_.--The number and confidence of the natives continued to
increase, as well as the annoyance we experience from their
importunities;--it had been found necessary to protect the market by a
guard of soldiers. On returning from the market to-day, near the border
of Hay river, a party were daring enough to snatch the sentinel's
bayonet from out of its scabbard, and throw it into the river. The
soldier, however, succeeded in recovering it, and, to deter them from
proceeding to greater lengths, fired his musket over their heads. This
alarmed them so excessively, that away they scampered like a flock of
sheep, without daring to cast a look behind; indeed, such is their
terror of fire-arms, that it is only with the greatest difficulty that
they can be persuaded to touch a musket.
_Monday, Nov. 19_.--The young man, named Matthew Elwood, who had so
recently returned from his visit in the interior, where he had been
sent by Capt. Owen, with a view of acquiring some knowledge of their
language, volunteered to repeat it, accompanied by another young man,
and they had now been two days at the same village a few miles distant
from the settlement, where the King resided. Anxious to lose no
opportunity of obtaining information respecting the manners and customs
of this singular people, I determined on joining the party, and fixed
upon the present day for my journey. I have ever, throughout life, but
perhaps more particularly since the loss of my sight, felt an intense
interest in entering into association with human nature, and observing
human character in its more primitive forms: this propensity I have
previously had opportunities of enjoying, in some of the countries most
remote from European knowledge, amidst the wilds of Tartary and the
deserts of Siberia; and I can refer to the indulgence of it many of my
more pleasurable sensations. I know that the world declaims against the
absurdity of an individual, circumstanced like myself, professing to
derive either pleasure or information from such sources, and maintains
that travelling by the fireside would better suit those circumstances,
and convey an equally gratifying interest. I answer confidently that
this is not the case, and that I believe the intensity of my enjoyments
under the system I have adopted, equals, if not surpasses, what other
travellers experience who journey with their eyes open. It is true, I
ascertain nothing _visibly_; but, thank God! I possess most exquisitely
the other senses, which it has pleased Providence to leave me endowed
with; and I have reason to believe that my deficiency of sight is to a
considerable degree compensated, by a greater abundance of the power of
imagination which presents me with facility to form _ideal pictures_
from the description of others, which, as far as my experience goes, I
have reason to believe constitute fair and correct representations of
the objects they were originally derived from. It must be recollected
that I have formerly enjoyed the power of vision; and, although my
colourings may occasionally be too weak or too vivid, it is fair to
infer that the recollections of my former experience are sufficient to
prevent me from running into gross inaccuracies or incongruities. Place
me, as some have suggested, in the situation of the man in the farce,
and carry me in a limited circle around the same point, under the
assurance that I was travelling to distant and ever-changing scenes,
and support the stratagem by every circumstance calculated to give it
the fullest effect; it would never impose upon me: for the tact which
nature and experience have given me, and the inconceivable acuteness of
perception I derive from it, would immediately detect inconsistencies
scarcely appreciable by others, and at once overturn and expose the
deception which was being practised.
At 3 o'clock in the afternoon I left the Eden for King Cove, at which
place we found a few natives, who assembled on our landing. Anderson,
the interpreter, had been appointed to conduct me, but Mr. Jeffery
kindly accompanied me for the first half mile, in expectation of
leaving me in the care of a chief of our acquaintance. However, before
we had proceeded far, the assemblage of natives had become so great,
and their importunities to purchase palm-wine and other commodities so
annoying, that I was glad when he returned, under the expectation that
his separation from me would prove, as it did, a diversion which, by
drawing off a considerable part of the natives, would permit me to
continue my journey with less interruption. I now advanced with
Anderson as fast as the paths would admit, being anxious to arrive at
our point of destination that evening; my companion, however, was
desirous of passing the night at the hut of a chief in the
neighbourhood of the beach, and endeavoured to dissuade me from
prosecuting our journey this evening. I have already spoken of the
qualifications of this man as an interpreter, and have now to observe,
that he possessed others, which made him a useful medium of
communication with the natives: for instance, he was a good-tempered
fellow, could laugh heartily whenever they laughed, eat and drink
whatever was placed before him, however repugnant to an European
stomach; and, being somewhat of their own colour, i.e. not many shades
darker, they were inclined to be particularly partial to him.
Our path was at first tolerably good, and lay through a level country,
but, when we had proceeded about half way, became hilly, rugged, and
slippery, particularly after passing the second of two streams which
intercepted our road. A number of the natives, principally women,
continued to follow, passing evidently a variety of jokes upon us, and
laughing heartily at every false step I happened to make. Before we
reached the end of our journey, the number had increased to many
hundreds, who shouted, and halloed incessantly at the novelty of our
appearance, similar to a European rabble, when following any
extraordinary sight. To relieve Anderson, who had the luggage, I took
hold, for a short time, of the arm of a native, who conducted me well,
until we became surrounded by a crowd of his countrymen, and then,
whether he felt compelled to answer their queries, or was proud of his
charge, or anxious to exhibit the high confidence reposed in him, I
found him a very troublesome guide; for he was constantly turning his
head over my shoulder, and speaking or hallooing to those who were
behind him.
At length we arrived at the royal village, where Elwood and his
companion came to receive us at the hut that His Majesty had appointed
for our accommodation. It was so late, that my countrymen were
surprised to see us; and, the King having retired, we were obliged to
relinquish the honour of an interview until morning. I therefore took
tea, and was happy in lying down for repose, after my fatiguing
journey. It was not without much concern I learned from Elwood, that,
during the present visit, neither he nor his companion had met with the
hospitable treatment or attention which they had expected; on the
contrary, they had been compelled, immediately after their arrival, to
expose the contents of their bags, and actually obliged to surrender up
to the King one-half of the little stock of iron with which they had
provided themselves for the purpose of barter. The consequence was,
that, after paying three pieces to the natives who had conveyed their
luggage, another for a couple of fowls, and presenting a fifth to
Canning, (a chief who had been Elwood's principal friend on his former
visit, and to whom he had given this distinguished name,) to secure his
good services,--they had only one remaining for their future resources;
and it was by no means satisfactory to be thrown upon the casual
generosity of the natives. It is true, they had with them some salt
beef and biscuit, and it was understood, when they quitted the ship,
that Captain Owen had engaged to compensate the King for their
protection and entertainment.
_Tuesday, 20_.--At daybreak we were visited by Canning, and several
other chiefs, who brought with them a large yam, and some palm-wine
intended for our breakfast. We were from time to time, in reply to our
inquiries, assured that the King was coming; we waited, however, two
hours in vain expectation, and at length sent Anderson to inquire into
the cause of delay, when we were informed that His Majesty was busily
occupied at his toilet, or, in other words, having his head dressed, in
order, as I suppose, to enable him to appear with more dignity on this
important occasion. About 8 o'clock he made his entrée, accompanied by
several of his chiefs. At first his manner was somewhat reserved, but,
after a short conversation, which held out to him the prospect of
receiving presents, confirmed by the actual gift of two large knives
from myself, he became highly animated, loquacious, and agreeable. He
now ordered a plentiful supply of palm-wine, which he caused to pass
freely round; and, after staying with us about an hour, returned to his
own residence, from whence he shortly after sent us half a dozen yams.
There was a native priest resident in our hut, probably placed there to
observe our conduct, and who, for the whole morning, had been occupied
in smearing himself with coloured clay. We noticed that this man,
during our visit, performed every morning a few religious ceremonies,
and repeated prayers, in which the natives appeared to join. After the
King's departure, he began to exercise some of the more mysterious
functions of his office. I know not what the occasion was, but the
ceremony consisted in frequent repetitions of certain short sentences,
in which the individual on whom he was operating occasionally joined;
and, in the intervals between these sentences, he shook a bundle of
rods over the head of the latter, making, at the same time, a noise
which resembled the squeaking of a pig.
I am enabled to communicate but little respecting the religious
sentiments of this people. The duties of the priests appear to be more
surgical than clerical; of which opinion the following are
illustrations: A female applied to one of the priests with an
inflammatory tumour on the hand; after making an incision into the
tumour, and squeezing it in a manner which made his patient grin with
pain, he blew and spat upon the part. Upon another person, who had an
abcess of the eye, with an accumulation of some white matter in it, he
performed the following delicate operation: having first applied his
mouth to the part, he began to suck it with great eagerness and
perseverance, after which he ejected from his mouth a chalky-looking
substance, which he appeared to have extracted from the diseased
structure: this process he repeated several times, with a similar
result. These were, at least, substantial duties.
Our priest had a sacred corner in the hut, with a particular seat which
none else presumed to occupy; the former, a receptacle for dirt, the
latter, formed of a large stone, with four smaller ones, which served
for legs or supporters.
I endeavoured in vain to gain any satisfactory account of their funeral
ceremonies; no indications of graves have been seen by our people, and
the probability is, as is not unfrequently the custom in Africa, that
they bury their dead under the earthen floor of their huts. I know not
whether this opinion will be deemed as confirmed or not by the fact,
that, in returning from a walk, this afternoon, we passed a closed hut,
with five hats hanging in front of it, the owner of which, we were
informed, had died shortly before our arrival.
Our friend Canning supplied us with a fowl for dinner, and, when it was
dressed, appeared perfectly ready to assist us in disposing of it.
The following is, probably, the general mode which these people adopt
of hunting or catching wild animals, of which we had the fortune this
day to meet with a specimen: A goat, which was very wild, had been
secured to a rail, when, taking fright at the approach of my
companions, it contrived, by floundering, to break loose from its
confinement. The King, and some of his chiefs, who were at hand,
immediately ran for some long grass nets, rolled upon poles, and which
were about four feet wide. These they expeditiously unfolded, and then
encircling the goat, very skilfully and speedily recaptured him. They
have, however, other methods of taking wild animals; on enclosing yam
plantations with stakes seven feet high, they place traps at the sides
of the fence.
_Wednesday, 21_.--We returned His Majesty's visit this morning at eight
o'clock. He received us on the outside of his hut, and seated me on a
stone at his right hand, but immediately after a few words had been
exchanged, he made signs to us to return to our own residence; where on
our arrival, we found he had sent a sheep, with a view of giving us a
sumptuous feast. His Majesty, accompanied by his chiefs, soon after
joined us, and they immediately proceeded to the operation of killing
the sheep, which was conducted in the following manner: The animal
having been first hung up by the hind legs, its throat was cut, care
being taken, in effecting this, not to wound the windpipe. The blood,
as it flowed, was caught in a calabash, and then given to the priest,
probably to be reserved for some religious ceremony. The next process
was to skin the animal, in doing which the operator commenced with a
fore leg, then the corresponding hind one, then the other fore leg, and
so on; he then proceeded to the abdomen, and afterwards completed the
operation in the usual manner. The gall-bag and bladder were now
extracted and thrown away; after which the whole of the remaining
viscera were removed and placed aside for subsequent use. A large
portion of the flesh from one of the shoulders was now presented to the
King, who cut it into the form of a long string, beginning at the
outside, and proceeding to the centre. This he wound round a stick, and
held over a blazing fire, until half broiled; and, then dividing it
into a number of small pieces, distributed them to the party around
him, doing myself the honour of presenting me with the first piece. The
remainder of the animal was, in the next place, taken within our hut,
where the stomach and intestines, without any other preparation than
imperfectly squeezing out their contents, were warmed over the fire,
and then, in nearly a raw state, divided among the natives, who ate
them with great relish, the King receiving his portion with the rest.
His Majesty now presented our party with a leg, shoulder, breast, and
small saddle, and afterwards divided what remained among his chiefs,
reserving the head for himself, which, after being well scorched, he
ordered to be taken to his hut.
A more curious part of this singular feast remains to be described. On
opening the animal, it was found to be with young, when the uterus,
containing two lambs, each about six inches long, was, as a particular
mark of favour or respect, placed in my hands: but, not appreciating
the gift so highly as probably had been expected, I immediately laid it
aside. After the departure of the King, it was a second time brought to
me, and I now contrived, by shaking my head, and other demonstrations,
to make them comprehend that I did not intend to make use of it, and
that it was entirely at their service. This was, without doubt, very
agreeable intelligence; for, having pricked the sac, to allow the
liquor to drain away, and laid it for a short time before the fire, the
whole was divided into portions, and eaten up apparently with avidity
and delight.
The above meal was purely carnivorous, for neither yams nor palm-wine
were introduced as accompaniments; in the afternoon, however, his
Majesty made us another short visit, and sent a quantity of wine. We
offered the natives salt to their meat, but they refused it with every
sign of disgust, and even wanted to throw away our little store of
this, to us, so necessary a condiment. They also shewed an equal
dislike to tobacco; and, when one of our party made preparations for
smoking a cigar, the priest held out his rod as if in prohibition,
while others endeavoured to prevent him from lighting it. Canning,
indeed, who had witnessed more frequently the practice of smoking on
board, shewed less aversion.
Though we were at a considerable distance from the settlement, we could
hear the reports of the morning and evening gun; for the first two or
three days, the natives appeared, or pretended to be, much alarmed at
this, as they halloed for some time after. They would frequently come
up to us, levelling a stick like a musket, and accompany the action
with bang! bang! We had reason to consider them much afraid of every
species of fire-arms, and I cannot but think it would be good policy to
keep this apprehension alive, rather than to endeavour to remove it by
attempts to explain the principles of their action, and to familiarise
them with the effects. In this respect, I deem the general practice of
our voyagers and travellers to be decidedly faulty, since the superior
advantages which fire-arms give, may be said to constitute our chief
compensation for deficiency of numbers, and thus enable us to preserve
that vast pre-eminence which we possess over the uncivilised
inhabitants of newly-discovered countries. If the policy of our
Government requires an intercourse with savage nations, both prudence
and humanity justify our retaining the means of commanding that
intercourse, by the superiority of our modes of defence; for, in the
event of hostile collision, the numbers of the savages, possessed as
they are, individually, of physical strength and bodily activity, at
least equal to our own, could scarcely fail to be overwhelming. This
also agrees with Vaillant's opinion, for he remarks, that, "when you
travel among savages, you ought never to employ your arms, or shew the
use of them, except to render them a service, either by procuring them
game, or destroying such ferocious animals as are obnoxious to
them."--_Vaillant_, vol. ii. p. 127.
About ten o'clock this evening, a great noise from persons talking
commenced in the village, accompanied, at times, by loud hallooing, and
a clattering of a kind of rattle-boxes, which many of the natives wear
around the neck, and which somewhat resembles the upper half of the
leathern-case of a spirituous-liquor bottle, within which is appended a
clapper made generally of a sheep's jawbone. This noise, the meaning of
which I could not comprehend, continued, with little interruption,
throughout the night.
_Thursday, Nov. 22_.--Soon after breakfast, the King sent for us to his
hut, and regaled us with palm-wine, poured out by the fair hand of a
young female, whom my companions pronounced the most beautiful they had
seen in this island, and whom we supposed to be his Majesty's favourite
wife. On this occasion, he took the opportunity of reminding us of the
presents he expected to receive from Captain Owen, and directed some of
his chiefs to shew us those which he intended to offer in return,
consisting of sheep, fowls, &c. &c. We were then conducted to our hut,
and given to understand, by signs, that it was his Majesty's pleasure
we should forthwith pack up our luggage, and return to our settlement.
We thought, however, it would be more pleasant to take an early dinner
first, and with this intention commenced the preparation of a kind of
Irish stew, consisting of mutton and yams: being defective in the
latter article, we requested a further supply; but this did not please
our hosts, and it was intimated that we should find plenty at the end
of our journey. We still, however, urged our wishes, when, at length,
they brought us a couple of pieces. We could not avoid expressing
dissatisfaction at this scanty supply, when they began to assume a very
savage and sulky appearance; even our friend Canning arose with a
menacing countenance, and laying hold of his spears, threatened to
compel our immediate departure. It would have been imprudent to
continue to irritate them at this juncture, and at best have only
exposed our own weakness: we therefore thought we should most preserve
our dignity, and, at the same time, retain a just ground of complaint
of their want of hospitality, by giving way to their wishes, yet not
without evident signs of our high dissatisfaction. I believe they had,
subsequently, reason to repent of their conduct, as Capt. Owen
afterwards treated them with apparent coldness, and probably abridged
his intended presents: not but that they were amply remunerated,
although the measure of it fell short of their own expectations. We
took our dinner deliberately, notwithstanding this urgency, and then
commenced our journey, accompanied by Canning and another chief;
besides an old man, who had resided in the hut with us, carrying our
luggage. We were soon joined by the persons who carried the presents
intended for Captain Owen. We also met the King, but he, instead of
accompanying us, as we had expected, went off immediately to his own
residence, bearing on his shoulders a quantity of wood, for the use, as
we supposed, of the royal household; we shook hands with his Majesty on
taking our final leave.
As on the journey up the country, we had, on our return, great numbers
of idle people following us, either from motives of curiosity or
interest, and teazing us to give them palm-wine, iron, &c. The road, in
various places, was extremely rugged and narrow, with steep declivities
from the sides to the centre, and very slippery from the rain that had
fallen in the morning. We again crossed two streams, the chief of
which, although broad and rapid, was not sufficiently deep to be
dignified with the title of a river. Towards evening, we arrived at
King Cove, where, proceeding to the beach, we washed the clay from our
trowsers, and then went to our quarters for the night.
The hut in which we took up our residence, consisted of a wooden roof,
thatched with palm-leaves, and supported on stancheons of wood; the
leaves, on all sides, approaching within two or three feet of the
ground, indeed so low, that it made it very inconvenient to get in or
out; for, unless great caution was observed, there was considerable
risk of getting wounded by the prickles on the leaves of the palm-tree.
Previously to its becoming dark, we were invited to drink palm-wine on
the outside of our hut; and, afterwards retiring within, our native
companions employed themselves busily enough in roasting and eating
their yams, while we enjoyed the refreshing beverage of tea. We then
lay down for the night; but, alas! not to sleep; for, although our hut
was not very large, it contained about twenty persons of different
sexes and ages, who were, of course, pretty closely stowed: and from
its not being closed at the sides, with much thunder and lightning
taking place, accompanied by high wind and heavy rain, which continued
throughout the greater part of the night, the latter beat in under the
roof, and also drove the smoke of three fires towards us, until we were
nearly suffocated. It will be conceived, that our situation was not the
most enviable; those near the outside were exposed to the pitiless
storm; while they who occupied the centre, where we had spread our
hammocks, were necessarily oppressed with heat and smoke. About two
o'clock, some of the natives, finding it impossible to sleep, got up
and amused themselves until daylight in conversation, and roasting yams
on the fire.
_Friday, 23_.--At day-break, the whole of the natives rose and
commenced their yam feast, succeeded by plentiful supplies of
palm-wine. As the heavy winds and rain shewed no appearance of abating,
we began to doubt whether we should get on board to-day; however, about
eight o'clock, it moderated, and before noon, the weather was
sufficiently favourable to induce us to make the attempt. Having taken
our seats in the canoes, together with the chiefs who accompanied us, a
party of the natives urged them over the surf, and away we paddled for
the ship, which we reached in less than a couple of hours. Before
getting on board, however, we were treated with a specimen of eager
covetousness and want of decorum in our late friends; for, instead of
waiting to allow us to get up first, or offering to assist us, no
sooner did the canoe touch the ship, which she happened to do under the
main-chains, than away they all started with their presents, leaving us
to bring the boat to the gangway, and get out as well as we could; they
even gave up all care for the safety of the canoe; the consequence of
which was, that _they left us adrift in it_, and the commanding officer
was obliged to send a boat to bring her alongside again.
_Saturday, 24_.--Having now spent some days in what may be termed the
domestic privacy of the island, it will be inferred that I have become
more intimately acquainted with the character of its inhabitants, who
may justly be considered as constituting one of the most extraordinary
races of savages at this time in existence. I shall, therefore, avail
myself of this opportunity of developing farther than has yet been done
in the preceding pages, whatever occurred to me as being most
interesting in their manners, habits, customs, and peculiarities. This
I shall follow up with some details respecting the natural history and
productions of the island; which, however imperfectly they may be
treated, will probably be deemed worthy of attention as subjects of
scientific research. In these descriptions, I must, however, plead
strongly for the indulgence of my readers, as many serious obstacles
have opposed themselves to the inquiry after satisfactory information;
among which, none have been more uncompromising than those experienced
in acquiring a knowledge of the language; for, although we have been in
constant communication with the natives, at present so little progress
has been made, that our attempts in this respect may be said to have
almost entirely proved abortive. We have, indeed, some reason to
believe that the natives are desirous of throwing impediments in our
way, since, notwithstanding they evince much quickness in catching
words of our language, repeating the orders issued by the officers, and
are also possessed of considerable power of mimicry, they shew little
inclination to communicate their own terms or names. It has not
unfrequently happened, that when, according to the usual custom of
persons who are not conversant with each other's language, we touched,
significantly, any thing which we were desirous of knowing, they used
different words in reply, as if with the intention of confusing us;
and, again, when we believed that we had ascertained the right name
from one source, on inquiring from others, a very different word was
given; so that we eventually remained in doubt as to the proper one.
The few small vocabularies we have succeeded in collecting, seem to
prove that there are distinct dialects, or idioms, among the different
tribes. This is particularly exemplified in the case of the numerals;
for not only are different words used to express the same number, but
peculiar modes of counting are made use of--for instance, one tribe,
after counting five in the usual way, proceeds to ten and twenty; while
another, after going on progressively to ten, starts at once to twenty.
The language itself is, generally speaking, harmonious, most of the
words terminating in vowels, as will be perceived from the subjoined
vocabulary, which is as correct as circumstances would admit of our
obtaining.
The mode Captain Owen adopted of gaining an insight into the Fernandian
language was, perhaps, the best that could have been devised: viz. the
sending a person to reside with the natives in the interior, as has
been before stated; but the result proved very unsatisfactory; for he
added little to what we had previously acquired. Another mode adopted
was, the promise of a reward to that individual who might gain the
earliest and best knowledge of the subject.