'_Proclamation_,--By William Fitzwilliam Owen, Esq. Captain of his
Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando Po.
'It has become necessary to extend our lines for the purpose of
keeping the natives more separate from our working parties, which are,
at times, much incommoded by them, and for the purpose of possessing
ground enough for our own establishment.
'_Therefore_, I do, by this act, formally take possession for his
Majesty, of all unpossessed lands lying between a line running south,
by the compass, or south-south-east by the pole of the world, from
Cockburn-brook on the west, to Hay-brook on the south, and the
coast-line between the said Cockburn and Hay-brooks, including therein
the two islets named Adelaide; guaranteeing, at the same time, to the
natives of Fernando Po, perfect security, and unmolested possession of
all such grounds within the said limits as are now settled or
appropriated by them, being apparently four small spots where they
have parks for store yams, which grounds are to be purchased whenever
the chiefs can be assembled for that purpose, and the said natives are
disposed to receive an equivalent for their value.
'Given under my hand, at Clarence, this twenty-fifth day of December,
one thousand eight hundred and twenty-seven.
'WILLIAM FITZWILLIAM OWEN,
_Captain of his Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando
Po._
'GOD SAVE THE KING.'
The above Proclamations having been read, three general cheers were
given, on a signal from the boatswain's pipe, after which the band
struck up 'God save the King,' succeeded by a _feu de joie_ from the
volunteers, marines, and African corps, which was immediately responded
to, by a royal salute, from His Majesty's ship Eden, the Steam-vessel,
and the African (a merchant schooner), and afterwards from small cannon
at the settlement.
The ceremony being thus concluded, the different parties marched off in
the same order as before, and were dismissed to their respective
quarters, the band playing 'Rule Britannia.' On returning to the Eden,
Capt. Owen performed divine service, Captain Harrison doing the same to
the civil establishment on shore; after which, Capt. Owen gave a dinner,
at Mr. Glover's house, to the whole of the officers engaged in the
establishment. It only remains to be added to the events of this day,
that many of the natives, including our friend Cut-throat, were present
during its different ceremonies.
_Tuesday, January 1, 1828_.--During the past week nothing of importance
has occurred, excepting that our works are rapidly advancing; as
respects our general pursuits, and intercourse with the natives, much
sameness must necessarily exist.
Soon after eight o'clock this morning. Captains Owen and Harrison,
attended by a party of marines, proceeded to a native town, eight miles
to the eastward, for the purpose of meeting an old chief, who was said
to be the principal one on that part of the island. After they had
waited a considerable time at the place appointed, the chief made his
appearance, accompanied by 150 spearmen, who entertained our party with
an exhibition of warlike evolutions, when Captain Owen, in return,
directed his marines to go through their military exercise; but, before
they had proceeded far, the chief became evidently much alarmed, and
requested them to desist: his apprehension appeared to be more
particularly excited by the bayonets. Having spent a short time with the
chief, partaking of his palm-wine, and inviting him to return the visit
on the following Tuesday, Captain Owen took his leave.
In the course of the afternoon Chameleon came to our market, accompanied
by nearly 150 of his followers, all well armed with spears, and walked
up to Mr. Jeffery in a menacing and insulting manner, as if to demand
satisfaction for some injury he had sustained. He even carried his
daring so far as to make a seizure of Mr. Jeffery's person; that
gentleman immediately despatched a messenger to Captain Owen to
communicate what had happened, requesting at the same time that some
soldiers might be sent to his assistance, in order to prevent further
aggression on our lines. Captain Owen immediately hastened to the spot
with a party of the Royal African Corps, and at length succeeded in
conciliating the natives, although, for want of a good interpreter, he
could by no means satisfactorily ascertain the cause of their violent
proceedings. It probably originated in the discontent of the chief, who
had, on the day preceding, in consequence of some misconduct, been
excluded from the market.
At five o'clock I had the pleasure of accompanying Captain Owen on shore
to a banquet, that had been prepared in honour of him by the civil and
military officers of the establishment. On this occasion the Eden's band
attended, and we were also favoured by the presence of many of the
natives, who were thus enabled to gratify their love of music. The
following ludicrous instance of their enthusiasm in this respect,
occurred one day while the band were playing on the quarter-deck of the
Eden. A chief, named Good-tempered Jack, while listening to the music,
was so absorbed in his feelings, that he became totally insensible to
the circumstance of a native woman, who stood behind him, giving way to
her own raptures, by beating time, with no little vehemence, on his
back.
_Thursday, 3_.--Lieutenant Vidal, Captain Smith, of the African,
schooner, and others, made an excursion, about eight miles up the
Baracouta river, this morning. They proceeded partly by walking along
the banks, and partly by wading up the bed of the river. They met with
little of interest, excepting that, at about three miles from the mouth,
they observed some fine basaltic pillars: they also shot a few snipes,
and saw the tracks of many deer.
_Friday, 4_.--Our old acquaintance, Bottle-nose, was to-day found guilty
of an indirect mode of stealing, by demanding payment a second time,
with the greatest possible coolness and effrontery, for a sheep, and a
goat with its kid, for which he had previously received the stipulated
price. Mr. Jeffery, of course, resisted the demand, and brought forward
several persons who most satisfactorily proved the former payment. Mr.
Bottle-nose, however, would not be satisfied with this, and had even the
presumption to complain to Captain Owen, who, on inquiry, was convinced
that he was guilty of an intentional attempt at imposition; he, however,
ordered the animals in question to be returned, but gave directions that
he should never in future be permitted to enter the market, or in any
shape trade with our establishment. This man had also, on the very same
day, been detected in two or three attempts to steal a knife, and
various pieces of iron. It is evident, from the above and other traits,
that the natives of this island, like all other savage nations, are
naturally addicted to thieving: from the fear of detection, however, the
instances of their venturing to indulge the propensity, do not appear to
be numerous.
_Monday, 7_.--After breakfasting on board the steam-vessel, I
accompanied Lieutenant Vidal and Mr. Cowen on shore, for the purpose of
making observations. In the first place, we investigated the process for
making a beautiful lake-red pigment, which is conducted by the women,
the paint being used as an ornament for their skins. On entering the hut
of an old chief, to whom our visit was more particularly directed, we
found him sitting on the ground, with one of his wives in the same
position holding a calabash, containing a mess of fowl and palm-oil,
which he was eating with one hand, while the other held a roasted yam,
which he also occasionally partook of. Having finished his repast, he
took a draught from a large calabash of palm-wine, which he then
presented to us, having, however, previously poured some into another
vessel, which he gave to his wife. When the lady had finished her
draught, she went to a tree near the hut, whose leaves and berries
resembled those of our laurel, and plucking off about a dozen of the
younger leaves, made them up into a bundle, which she first dipped into
water, and afterwards into wood-ashes; they were then ground into a pulp
on a stone, whose surface formed an inclined place, from which the
material was allowed to run off when sufficiently prepared. On rubbing a
portion of this pulp on our hands and faces, it became, after drying, a
most beautiful and delicate rose colour, which required several times
washing with soap and water before it could be removed, and which, if
allowed to remain without washing, would retain its brilliancy for a
comparatively long time. Mr. Cowen professed his intention of preparing
a quantity of this dye, to send to his fair friends in England.
We also observed the process for preparing the palm-oil which I have
before described. This oil, from the great number of palm-trees in the
island, will, without doubt, ultimately become a considerable article of
trade; indeed Captain Smith, of the African, schooner, has already
opened a traffic for it, giving iron in exchange.
Two of the Kroomen to-day knocked down a fine buck deer, one of the
haunches of which weighed six pounds.
_Tuesday, 8_.--Our market at Longfield, which of late has been held only
twice in the week, when the natives are summoned by the sound of the
bugle, has been well attended to-day. Hitherto Mr. Jeffery has had the
superintendence of it, and it is impossible to pay too high a tribute to
his exertions, and the manner in which he has discharged the very
arduous task of conducting the barter with the natives. The system acted
upon has now become so well defined, that Captain Owen deems it
sufficient to commit the future charge to a corporal of marines, who
has to-day entered on this duty.
_Thursday, 10_.--A native afflicted with insanity came within our lines
this morning, and continued there until the afternoon. The conduits, or
shoots from the watering-place to the beach, were this day reported to
be completed.
_Saturday, 12_.--We have for some days been experiencing close warm
weather, which I regret to say has proved unfavourable to our invalids,
the ulcerations having in consequence been apparently aggravated.
_Monday, 14_.--Mr. Abbott, the store-keeper at Clarence, and John Earle,
seaman of H.M.S. Eden, who had charge of the ordnance at the settlement,
died this afternoon from intermittent fever.
_Thursday, 17_.--At daylight, the African, steam-vessel, got up her
anchor and steam; when she stood out of the bay and parted company for
England, intending to call at Sierra Leone, for a fresh supply of coals.
She was under the command of Lieut. Vidal, who was charged with
despatches relating to the proceedings of the settlement, &c. Mr.
Bremner, master of the Eden, as well as several invalids, went home
passengers in her: and I availed myself of the opportunity of sending
home numberless specimens of articles used by the natives, amongst which
were the following--the model of a canoe, spears, fishing lines, and
stone slings, made from the fibre of the bark of a tree, bracelets,
armlets, and other trifling ornaments worn about their person; a knife,
made out of an iron hoop, and fitted into a wooden handle; a bell-shaped
wooden rattle, some small boxes, made of split cane, monkey skins, &c.
&c.
A building, composed of the frames of two small houses, each twenty feet
square, having been erected, near Point William, for an hospital, it was
this day reported to be ready for the reception of the sick, and 17
seamen of the Eden, with bad ulcers, were sent on shore to occupy it,
leaving 15 on board with the same complaint, besides a few fever cases;
there were also eight more ulcer cases that had been on shore for some
time under a tent, near Point William. This situation was chosen by
Capt. Owen for the hospital, as it was near the extreme point of a small
peninsula, on which the prevailing wind blows transversely, therefore,
if any spot on the settlement, or near the sea-shore of any part of the
island was healthy, it is reasonable to suppose that this would be. The
house consisted of only one floor, with a good broad verandah all round
it, shingled in the same way as the roof of the house.[33]
_Friday, 18_.--This morning, one of the African Corps followed the
example of our interpreter, Anderson, with this difference, however,
that when he ran away, he took his musket and accoutrements with him. I
do not see what advantage they proposed to themselves by going amongst
the islanders, as they did not speak their language, and could not
expect to procure the means of support, without working hard for it. The
only point in their favour was, that they were of the same colour.
This afternoon the Eden's boats were sent after a vessel in the offing,
which proved to be a sloop laden with palm-oil, from the Old Calabar
River, bound to Liverpool. A few guanas have been seen here, and the
Kroomen caught one a few days since, which they considered a great
treat, and had cooked agreeably to their taste; but no venomous animal,
except a few snakes, has yet been discovered. The guana is harmless,
and, in some countries, is used for food. It is common to Asia, Africa,
and America. Fortunately the alligator has not been seen in any of the
rivers here, notwithstanding that they are native to all the rivers of
the proximate continent. The cause, no doubt, is, that the rivers on the
island, are mere mountain streams, which are very unfavourable to the
retreat or repose of those reptiles.
_Saturday, 19_.--Soon after midnight, I accompanied Lieutenant Badgeley
from his Majesty's ship Eden, on board the schooner African, Captain
Smith, when we got under weigh to proceed round the coast of the Bight
of Biafra, between the Camaroon River and Cape Formosa, for the purpose
of cruising off, and entering any of the rivers, in quest of vessels
trading for slaves, where we might have reason to believe that the
inhuman traffic was pursued. The weather was very unpropitious during
the night, for we had it squally, with heavy rain, thunder and
lightning; but it cleared up in the course of the morning, and, at noon,
it was calm and fine;--soon after which we saw a strange vessel, which
we supposed to be a slaver: we, therefore, used every effort to overtake
her, getting out our sweeps, and sending the Eden's pinnace a-head to
tow; which boat, with a good crew of English sailors, Lieutenant
Badgeley had brought with him, to assist in performing the service. We
had not advanced far towards the strange sail, before we observed two
boats coming from her, which came alongside of us about three in the
afternoon, when we found that they belonged to his Majesty's brig
Clinker, which was well manned and armed, and that they entertained the
same suspicions of our purpose as we had held of theirs. The Clinker was
in the very best order, and was commanded by Lieutenant Matson, a most
active and experienced officer.
I would here remark, that if we desire to be eminently successful in
putting down the slave-trade, our Government ought to select vessels of
a peculiar description, I mean vessels constructed principally for
sailing; for, in the first instance, the very service on which they are
employed is that of chasing vessels that have been built with a special
regard to swiftness on the water. The consequence of the unfitness of
our ships for this particular service, is, that of the number of slavers
that we descry in these seas, the captures make but a small proportion.
If we had a few of the large class of Baltimore schooners, with a long
12 or 18 pounder a-midships for a chase-gun, and a few carronades for
close action, with a good crew well trained to the sweeps; and a few
brigs similar to the well known Black Joke, I would venture to say, that
they would be more successful, and less expensive to Government, than
the class of vessels that have hitherto been employed on this service.
Instead of a large frigate, with a Commodore's Pennant, we might have a
first class flush-deck sloop of war, built principally for fast sailing,
with a distinguished young Post Captain to command her; for activity and
experience on this coast are more wanted than large ships and officers
of high rank, as there is not much diplomatic business to be carried on
with the African nations. It may also be observed that it is a very safe
coast to navigate, for if you will but sound in time, you may always be
apprized of danger soon enough to avoid it. The worst weather is during
the tornado season, and these squalls, of which there is always timely
notice, generally come off the land, and do not last, on an average,
more than a couple of hours.
At six we anchored off the entrance of the main channel into the old
Calabar river, in company with H.M. brig Clinker; entrance of the Rio
del Rey bearing E.N.E.
_Sunday, 20_.--We got under weigh at an early hour this morning, with
the intention of proceeding up the old Calabar, so far as Duke's Town,
off which place the palm-oil vessels, and slavers, generally anchor.
H.M. brig Clinker also got under weigh at the same time, with the
intention of accompanying us a short distance within the bar, where she
was to have anchored; while her boats were to have gone with us, for the
purpose of assisting in the capture of any slave-vessel that might be up
the river, but it unfortunately fell calm about 9 o'clock, when
Lieutenant Matson came on board and acquainted Lieutenant Badgeley that
he was afraid the expedition up the river would detain him longer than
he had expected, and he must therefore relinquish his intentions, and
proceed direct for Fernando Po, in order to obtain a supply of
provisions, of which they had much need. At noon there was a moderate
breeze, and fine clear weather. East point of the old Calabar N.N.E. 7
miles: but the wind being down the river, we were employed working up
all the afternoon, and having no pilot on board, we occasionally got
rather too close to the mud banks on either side, and once we tacked in
two fathoms water, which is just as much as would keep the vessel
afloat. She was fortunately a very beautiful American pilot-boat
schooner, that with the least breeze was as manageable as a boat. We
scaled the guns, and otherwise prepared for action, for there was no
doubt but that any slave-vessel would resist to the utmost, if there was
the least chance of escape. We were afraid that they might obtain
information of our movements, before we got up to Duke's Town, where
they generally receive their slaves on board, for when they are nearly
ready for sea, they always keep a canoe on the look out at the mouth of
the river, to report when any men-of-war appear on the coast, so that
they might have time to disembark their slaves, before men-of-war, or
their boats, can reach them; for although vessels may be fitted up with
a slave deck, and have every preparation on board for their reception,
you cannot condemn them, unless you actually find slaves on board.
At 4 the east point of Old Calabar river W.N.W. 7 miles. Anchored at
midnight.
_Monday, 21_.--Unsettled weather and wind variable. At daylight got
under weigh. At noon light breezes and hazy.
From 4 to 6 this evening we passed between two lines of fishing-stakes,
indeed we found that a number of large stakes were driven into the mud
banks, in different situations, outside the entrance of the Old Calabar,
some of them a considerable distance from the land; and there were long
lines of them a short distance from each other.
I endeavoured in vain to find out the reason for placing these stakes in
such situations, many of which were covered with water at the highest
time of the tides. They are called fishing-stakes, and boats certainly
do sometimes go and make fast to them for that purpose, as well as to
wait the turning of the tide, when they are going to places at any
distance along the coast, yet one would think that they would hardly
take so much trouble as to bring, and place so great a number as there
are, and many of them several miles from the land, merely for the above
purposes. They make it very dangerous for boats, or small vessels,
navigating those places in the dark, who are not acquainted with their
existence. If I were allowed to hazard a conjecture on the subject, I
should think they were placed there for the above reason, as men-of-war
often send their boats up the rivers at night in quest of slave-vessels,
for the purpose of coming on them by surprise, and thereby prevent them
from landing the slaves which might be on board preparatory to sailing;
also to get quietly alongside of them in any part of the river, where
they might have anchored for the night, or the turning of the tide, with
their slaves on board, on their way to sea. About 9 o'clock we
unexpectedly found ourselves within the bar of the Old Camaroon river,
where we anchored for the night.
The tide was running strong, taking the various directions of the coasts
and rivers, and very perplexing to strangers. Unfortunately, there was
no one on board who had ever been here before, and not having been able
to procure a pilot, we were compelled to grope our way, both by night
and by day, with only a rough sketch of a chart to guide us.
_Tuesday, 22_.--At daylight we got under weigh, and endeavoured to
regain the channel of the Old Calabar river, but we found the tide
stronger than the wind, and that it had carried us on a mud-flat off
little Quay river, which, at about half ebb left the schooner aground,
this obliged us to get some spars out, to prop her up on each side. At
which time we were in the following situation: West point of Old
Calabar river, W. by S. Fish Town point N. by W. 1/2 W. and the
entrance of little Quay river N.N.E. At 5 in the afternoon we got the
spars in and laid a small anchor out, with the assistance of a boat, by
which, and other aid, we hoped to get the vessel entirely clear of the
bank: but we only partly succeeded that tide, for on the return of low
water, we were obliged to have recourse to the same means of propping
her up, from there not being two feet water left on the bank.
----------
[31] The calabashes are taken down, and replaced by others, every
morning and evening.
[32] We have met with some hooks made from the part of the solid wood of
a prickly tree, or shrub, whence the thorn grows, and which process
formed the pointed part of the hook.
[33] Wood is seldom found to be desirable for building in a hot country,
from the numerous ants and other insects that assail it, particularly
where the changes are so frequent from very dry to very moist weather,
if we had had time, it would have been much better to have erected our
buildings with brick or stone. There is, indeed, plenty of fine clay for
the former; but building stones are scarce in that neighbourhood, and we
had not sufficient lime,--as we had to procure burnt lime from Sierra
Leone, or shells from Accra, both of which we obtained for the building
of an armourer's shop and a bakehouse. Indeed, we were obliged to use
the utmost exertion to get any thing erected to shelter the Europeans
and African soldiers, before the rainy season set in. As for the African
mechanics and labourers, they built their own huts, in certain lines,
that we called streets.