straps; the block seized in with a round seizing, and secured round
the yard, (inside the cleat, one on each side,) with a rose-lashing
passed through both bights on the top of the yard. Before the lashing
is passed, the block should be hove up with heavers, and the eyes of
the strap brought as close together as possible. This is done with a
good strand passed through both, and hove up with a Spanish windlass.
Vessels carrying chain topsail sheets, have iron blocks fitted to the
iron bands in the slings of the yard for that purpose. (See Rigging
Table).
=147.=--CLEW GARNET BLOCKS
Are single; seized into a single strap, with an eye spliced in each
end, and are secured round the yard with a rose-lashing, the same as
the topsail sheet blocks, just outside the cleats. Some ships have all
the rigging inside the cleats, which is much neater.
_Note._-Iron bound blocks are allowed to all classes of vessels in
the navy, by the new regulation, for this purpose.
=148.=--LIFT BLOCKS--LOWER YARDS
Are single, seized into a single strap, with a round seizing; the strap
being long enough to go over the yard arm, after the block is seized
in. If both ends are spliced together, the splice should lay in the
score of the block, or upper side; but a grummet will answer equally as
well, and look snugger.
=149.=--FOOT ROPES AND STIRRUPS.
The foot ropes are cut once-and-a-half the length of the yard,
(excepting lower yards). An eye, to fit the yard arm, is spliced in one
end; and a small one, to take a seizing, in the other. The splicing
served in the way of chafing (one-third) midship part.
_Stirrups_ are short pieces of rope spliced round the foot rope; eyes
spliced in the opposite ends, to go over the jackstay-bolts; splices
served over. They are sometimes unlaid at one end and made into plait,
and secured to the yard with flat-headed nails, having a small piece of
hide or leather placed under their heads before being driven into the
yard. Going over the jackstay bolts is preferable; and some seize it
to the neck of the bolt, or staple. They hang on the after side of all
yards.
Some vessels have their foot ropes fitted to go abaft the mast, and
seized to the parrel, which answers a very good purpose, especially in
vessels with raking masts, as it gives the men a better opportunity to
stand.
=150.=--JACKSTAYS.--BENDING AND REEFING.
Take a piece of rope of the proper size,[11] cut off the length of the
yard, splice an eye in each end, to fit the yard arm, sufficiently taut
to require being driven on. Cut in the centre, and splice a thimble in
each end; put the strands for splicing in once-and-a-half, marl down,
and serve over. If two jackstays on each arm, (which should always
be the case when the sail is reefed to one), the large one, before
splicing the thimbles in, is rove through the eye-bolts on the yard for
the purpose; this is the reefing jackstay. The bending one is fitted
the same way, and after being put over the yard arm, is seized to the
neck of the bolts on the after side.
This plan has been generally adopted, as it was found much easier to
reef, than when fitted with only one jackstay; there being always
difficulty and delay in getting the points between the jackstay and the
yard, when the sail was bent to it. When only one jackstay, it is rove
through the eye-bolts.
_Note._--Iron bending jackstays are now allowed for all vessels in
the navy.
[11] For the length and size of rope, see Rigging Table.
=151.=--BRACE BLOCKS.--LOWER YARDS.
The straps should be fitted sufficiently taut to require being driven
on the yard arm. Two thimbles are fitted, one within the other, called
_lock thimbles_. Take a piece of rope, of the proper size, and cut
it long enough to go round one thimble and the yard, when spliced
together; worm, parcel and serve it, and pass a round seizing round
this strap, close to the thimble. Grommet straps are preferable, if
time will permit.
The block is a large single one, with two scores. For the strap take
a piece of rope the required length, and splice both ends together;
worm, parcel, and serve it; reeve it through the thimble already
strapped, and pass both parts round the score of the other thimble;
then place both bights in the scores in the brace block, keeping the
splice in the after end of the block; pass a round seizing between the
block and thimble, crossing it both ways, as in a double strap.
_Cross-jack brace-blocks_ are single, and strapped the same as lower
ones. A double block is secured to the after shrouds in the main
rigging, the same as main preventer brace blocks. When reeving the
cross-jack braces, one end of the brace is clinched, spliced, or
half-hitched, and the end seized, just below the block; then rove
through the block on the yard, through the inside sheave in double
block, and through a fair leading sheave in a rack, in the side or a
leading block. I have seen blocks strapped into bolts on the main-mast,
for the brace and bowline, which answered well. The brace block should
be put on the yard, sufficiently far in to be inside the topmast
backstays, when braced up.
_Note._--These braces should be well _below_ the yard, as it always
_tops up_ on the wind, which slacks the weather leech; this is partly
the reason a mizen-topsail never stands well.
=152.=--PLACING THE RIGGING ON LOWER YARDS.
Sling bands in the centre, and also on both sides, close to the topsail
sheet block, the truss pendants, then truss straps; if the rigging is
all within the cleats, a clue garnet block is lashed on each side; if
not, they are lashed one on each side, close outside. I have seen them
both ways, but inside is preferable.
Tar well the yard arm, close to the cleats and slings, in the wake of
the rigging, first jackstay; if two, the bending one, and set it up
amidships with a lanyard. Then the foot ropes; after going over the
yard arm, and rove through the stirrups, they are lashed together,
with a lanyard rove through both thimbles, and are secured with a good
seizing to the strap of quarter block. Then the brace, and lift blocks.
Rolling tackle straps on the inner quarter of yard, with the eye abaft
burton straps on the outer quarter yard-arm, eye on top of yard.
If the stirrups go over the jackstay bolts, they should be put over
before the jackstay is rove.
The cross jack-yard has no jackstay, head earings, or yard tackle
straps; and the brace blocks, instead of going over the yard-arm, are
put on some distance inside of the sheave hole for the mizen-topsail
sheets, on the forward side of the yard.
=153.=--GETTING UP JEER-BLOCKS, AND REEVING JEERS.
Secure two single whip blocks to the after bolts in lower cap. Send the
two foremost ends through lubber’s hole down on deck; bend them through
the shell of the block, with two half-hitches, and seize the end. Stop
them along each leg of the strap, the larboard whip to the larboard
leg, and the starboard whip to the starboard leg; then stop both legs
together with a seizing of spun-yarn in the bights--the hauling part of
the whips being through lubber’s hole and through a leading block on
deck; man them and hoist the blocks into their places. When clear of
the top, cut the stop in the bights, haul on the whips, and they will
bring the strap into its place, on each side of the mast-head. Then cut
the upper stops, on the whips; take a turn and pass the lashing in the
bight, securing each end to their next part. When secured, let go, and
take off the whips.
_Reeving jeers._--The standing part is clenched round the strap of
the upper block, rove through the one on the yard, up through another
sheave in upper block, and so on, until all rove full. The hauling
part is rove through a leading sheave, in fore or main bitts, or
through leading blocks. When heaving up, they are either brought to
the capstan, or manned by hand.
The jeer blocks are now generally fitted with hooks, as they can be
got up and down much quicker. At the present day, few ships are seen
to carry their jeers up in their proper places.
=154.=--LOWER LIFT BLOCKS
Are double; an iron plate is bolted across the upper side of the main
or fore cap; it is in the form of a crescent, with the hollow side
toward the topmast. In each end of the crescent, or horn, an eye is
turned and a thimble put in it. Instead of the eyes being turned,
I have seen two eye-bolts driven through the crescent and cap, and
secured underneath with a nut; a thimble is also put in the eye-bolt,
and the blocks strapped in.
The cross-jack lift blocks are single, one on each side, and can be
fitted as the fore or main, or (a chalk) abaft the mast-head, if
preferred, for neatness.
=155.=--REEVING LOWER LIFTS.
Clench one end round the yard outside all, then take the other end up
and reeve it through the foremast sheave in the double block in the
fore or main cap, then through the block on the yard, through the other
sheave in the double block, and through lubber’s hole on deck; well up
this part, splice a lizard for jigger tackle, or use tails selvageed on
the end. The upper block of the jigger can be spliced or turned in to
the lift, if preferred.
The cross jack lifts go over the yard arms with an eye spliced in the
end to fit them. The other end is rove through the block at the cap,
and is set up with two thimbles and a lanyard in the top; one thimble
being turned into the end, the other strapped to the eye of one of the
lower shrouds.
=156.=--MAIN BRACES--ON BUMKIN, &c.
A single block is seized into a double strap, with a round seizing
crossed both ways; the strap is then put over an iron outrigger, or
bumkin on the quarters, fitted for the purpose. The standing part of
the brace being parceled, is rove through another bolt in the bumkin,
and spliced into it or clenched; the other end rove through the block
on the yard arm, from out, in through the block in the bumkin, and
through a sheave in the bulwarks (abaft), for the purpose.
Double blocks are sometimes put on the bumpkin, instead of single ones,
and also two sheaves inserted in the bulwarks instead of one, both ends
of the brace rove, and led in-board--_a great facility in working ship_.
=157.=--FORE BRACES
Are clove-hitched, and the end seized aft on the collar of the main
stay, below the splice; the other end taken forward and rove from in,
out, through the block on the yard, through a single block strapped
into a bolt in the cheek of the main-mast, with a thimble in it, close
up to the trestle-trees; then rove from forward aft, through a sheave
in the main fife-rail.
The brace is often middled, and clove-hitched in the bight on the main
stay, and both ends taken forward and rove as before. Some have a hole
bored in the bibs, or cheeks of the mast, instead of clove-hitching it
around the main stay.
=158.=--CROSSING THE LOWER YARDS.
The jeers being rove, reeve the pendants and falls, hitch the pendants
around the quarters of the yard, splice in the lanyard of the D
thimble, and take the yard tackles forward to keep the yard clear of
the mast. The lifts and braces being rove, man the lifts and jeer
falls, “sway away,” and when the yard comes abreast of the futtock
staves, pass the lashing of the D thimble, parcel it well, over all,
frap all parts together, and cover all with canvass; reeve the truss
pendants, turn in the blocks, reeve the falls, haul taut the tresses,
and square the yard by the lifts and braces.
=159.=--TO GET ON BOARD THE TOPSAIL YARDS.
A large single block is lashed to the topmast-head, through which a
hawser is rove; overhaul it down forward and hitch it to the slings of
the yard, stop it along the yard arm, and sway it on board. Cast off
the hawser, middle the yard and prepare it for rigging.
=160.=--RIGGING TOPSAIL YARDS. (FORE AND MAIN.)
[Illustration]
The jackstays, after going over the yard arm, are rove through the
eye-bolts or staples, and set up a-midships with a lanyard and thimble
spliced in.
Foot ropes round the yard abaft, on their opposite quarters, as
follows:--splice the lanyard into the eye in the end; take it over the
yard, and round on the fore side, underneath through the eye; again
back round the yard on the fore side, through the eye, and back the
same way, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. Then take
a half-hitch from the lower edge of the eye, round all parts of the
lashing; pass it round before; reeve through the eye on the upper side,
take two half-hitches round all, and secure the end.
Tye blocks are now generally iron-strapped, and bolted into _straps_
round the yard for the purpose. If fitted with rope, they must have
double straps, and secured round the yard, on the upper foremost
quarter, with a rose-lashing. If they are single blocks, two on each
yard.
Quarter blocks are double blocks, iron strapped, and secured in the
same way as tye blocks. Much time is saved by having them fitted in
this manner, as in shifting yards, the topgallant sheets, and topsail
clewlines need not be unrove, which must be the case if rope-strapped.
If rope-strapped they are seized into a single strap, and lashed on top
of the yard with a rose-lashing.
_Parrel._--Take two pieces of rope, one longer than the other; the
long one of sufficient length to go round the mast and yard on each
side; the short leg to go round the mast, and lash to the long leg
on each side. An eye is spliced in each end, are wormed, parceled,
and served; both marled together and covered with leather. A round
seizing is passed around both, close to the eye of the short leg, on
each side. The long leg is taken round the yard, brought round on the
fore side, and secured to the short leg with a lashing of small rope,
passed through both eyes. The other eyes are lashed together when the
yard is across.
Brace blocks are strapped in the same way as fore or main yard.
Flemish horse is a short piece of rope spliced round a thimble, which
is on the neck of the pacific-iron,[12] it has an eye spliced in the
other end, and when the yard is rigged, is secured the same as a foot
rope, just inside the brace block, two or three feet, according to
the length of the yard. They should be long enough to allow a man to
stand on them to pass an earing, &c. They are sometimes fitted to
lower and top-gallant yards, for the convenience of reefing, &c.
Jewel-blocks are single blocks, seized into a strap put over a
thimble on the neck of the pacific-iron, outside the thimble for the
Flemish horse. Some fit them to go over the yard arm. Others fit them
with sister hooks, to hook to the pacific iron.
_Straps._--Half way out, on each yard arm, a strap is fitted long
enough to allow a thimble to be secured in it, with a seizing passed
between the yard and thimble,--this is called a rolling tackle
strap. Also, straps are put on the yard, with thimbles seized in the
same way, inside the lift, to hook a burton to; but a selvagee strap
is generally used for that purpose.
[12] Is what the boom-iron ships on.
=161.=--THE MIZEN TOPSAIL YARD
Is rigged nearly the same as the others, but the brace blocks are on
the fore-side, and the Flemish horses generally spliced into bolts in
the ends of the yards, with round thimbles in them. There is seldom
more than one tye-block on this yard, and no jewel blocks.
=162.=--PLACING THE RIGGING ON TOPSAIL YARDS.
Tar the yard arms; first the jackstay, foot ropes, brace, and lift
block; if no lift block, the lift; Flemish horses, and jewel-blocks.
The quarter blocks should be lashed so as to hang clear of the cap,
when the yard is down. See that the boom irons go on, and a small
cleat, or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about two feet on each
yard-arm, to keep the topgallant sheets clear of the yard. Also reefing
cleats on yard-arms, outside the lift.
=163.=--CROSSING THE TOPSAIL YARDS.
Reeve a hawser through one of the hanging blocks; send one end down
before all, the other through lubber’s hole, and through a leading
block on deck. Take a round turn, and timber-hitch the hawser round
the slings of the yard; stop it along the larboard yard-arm, if got up
on the starboard side; if got up on the larboard side, the contrary.
Overhaul well down to main or fore rigging, the starboard lifts and
braces; the larboard into the top, and stop them ready for rigging. Man
the hawser, and “sway away.” When the upper yard arm is clear of the
top, put over the brace and lift, (or block,) and “sway higher;” rig
the lower yard arm, take in the slack of the lifts and braces, then
cast off the stops on the upper yard-arm, and when the yard is well up,
take two or three turns with the parrel-lashing; bouse well up on the
starboard or lower lifts, overhaul the larboard, and the stops being
cast off, the yard will fall across. Secure the parrel; square the yard
by braces and lifts, and cast off and unreeve the hawser.
_Note._--In large ships the lifts and brace blocks are generally
placed on the yard arms before the yard is sent aloft. The braces are
rove when the yard goes up. I would also recommend double yard ropes
in heavy ships in crossing topsail yards; also to use the burtons.
=164.=--FITTING FLY-BLOCKS FOR TOPSAIL HALLIARDS.
The blocks spliced into the tyes are so called. They are large flat
blocks; some double, sometimes single, and often one double and one
single to each. The tyes are sometimes spliced taut round them; but
this way is bad; as the rope stretches, the blocks cant, and are
split. Also a long-eye is sometimes made in the end of the tye, and
the fly block kept in its place by a round seizing passed close above
the block. The block in general use is seized into a strap, leaving
sufficient space above to splice the tye in; or a thimble spliced into
the end of the tye, and the fly block strapped with a pair of sister
hooks, to hook to the tyes. Either of the latter ways are preferable to
the former.
When the yard is on the cap, these blocks should be square with the
top rails. Before turning in and setting up for a full due, an iron
traveler is put on the topmast backstay, which is seized to the
fly-block,--it prevents the block from striking or injuring the top
when lowering; it also keeps the turns out of the halliards. There is
sometimes a traveling jackstay fitted for this purpose.
_Reeving Topsail Halliards._--When rove double, a single block is
strapped into, or hooked, to a swivel bolt in the after part of the
chains; one end of the halliards is spliced into the upper part of
the strap of this block, or bent into a becket put there for the
purpose, and the end seized. The other end is then rove through one
of the sheaves in the double block in the tye, then through the
sheave in the single block in the chains, through the other sheave in
the double block, and through a leading block on deck.
_The Mizen Topsail Halliards_ have only one tye. The standing part
is clenched or half-hitched to the strap, with the thimble, at the
mizen-topmast head, and a single block spliced or secured in the
end. Another single block is strapped into a swivel bolt in the mizen
chains, and the halliards rove as with two single blocks; the fall
rove through a leading block or cheek. (Some ships have a treble fly
block).
=165.=--RIGGING TOPGALLANT YARDS.
They are got on board like the topsail yards. Leather the slings,
seize-on the D thimble, parrel, and quarter blocks, rolling
tackle straps,--tar the yard arms--foot ropes the same as topsail
yards--stirrups one to each foot rope--iron jackstays secured to the
yard with staples, fitted the same way as rope. (Iron sling-bands are
allowed by the _new regulation_.)
The lifts are single; an eye is spliced to fit the yard-arm; the other
end is rove through the thimble, or bull’s-eye, or a half sister-block
in the topgallant-rigging; a thimble turned into the end, and a lanyard
spliced into it, and set up to another thimble strapped round a futtock
plate inside the dead-eye in the top, or set up on the end.
[Illustration]
_Braces._--A single block is seized into a single strap, having an
eye to fit the yard-arm. If a single brace, an eye is spliced to fit
the yard-arm, and the lift and brace marled together.
The quarter-blocks are double; are seized into a single strap, an
eye being spliced in each end;--they lash together on the top of the
yard--the foremost sheave for top-gallant clewline, after one for
royal sheet.
_Parrel._--A long and short leg. Take a piece of rope, cut it the
required length, and splice the ends together round the yard. In one
bight seize a thimble, with a round seizing; the other one round the
yard; pass a round seizing close to the yard, round the parrel on the
after side; splice a lanyard into the thimble, and fit a short strap
the same way on the other quarter. These straps are sometimes served,
and often covered with leather,--they go inside the cleats. Grommets
can be worked if preferred, and dispense with the thimbles, as they
are likely to injure the mast. Jaws are also recommended. The patent
iron parrels are now in use in the navy, but are found not to answer
for ships of war.
Tripping beckets are fitted one on each yard-arm; work grummet straps
on quarter of yard, seize a thimble in with a round seizing passed
between the yard and thimble. A grommet is put on the yard rope, to
fit the yard-arm, when getting ready for crossing. Also, a lizard;
a small piece of rope with a thimble spliced in one end, the other
whipped. It goes on the yard rope before being bent to the yard.
When ready for going aloft, the yard rope is bent on, and the yard
stopped to the lower rigging; the main on the starboard side, fore
and mizen on the larboard side.
_Note._--Royal yards, opposite sides, to the topgallant yards.
=166.=--TOPGALLANT BRACES.
_Fore._--If double, the standing part is clove-hitched round the first
and second shrouds of the main topmast rigging; or crotch of the stay,
through the block for the brace, through another single tail block,
secured to the first and second shrouds (the same as, and under the
standing part), through lubber’s hole, and through a fair leading
sheave on deck.
They are often led forward from the blocks in the topmast rigging,
through a leading block strapped round the eyes of the fore rigging,
or after part of the top, and through fair leading sheaves on the
forecastle. In ships of war, I prefer them abaft. The block in the
topmast rigging is fitted as follows:--
A single piece of rope is spliced round a single block, having a tail
about three or four feet long; clove-hitch this tail round the first
shroud, then round the second, and seize the end. I have seen a round
turn taken round the first, and a clove-hitch round the second; either
plan will do, but if neatness is studied, clove-hitch round the second
and third; this will bring the block under the rigging, and out of
sight. If rove single, the block is secured the same way--an eye made
in the end of the brace to fit the yard-arm; the other end rove through
the block on deck, as before.
A whip is sometimes put on the brace, the block spliced in close up
to the cat-harpens, which answers very well. One end of the whip is
spliced into a bolt on deck, the other led through a fair leading
sheave or block.
_Main._--The main topgallant braces are fitted the same as the
fore, with the exception of leading. The standing part is secured
in the same manner to the foremost, or second and third shrouds of
mizen-topmast rigging; the hauling part before all, through lubber’s
hole, and through a sheave in the rack, or a leading block, to the
side abreast of the mizen-mast.
_Mizen._--The mizen topgallant braces are single. An eye is spliced
in one end to fit the yard-arm. The other end is rove through a
single block; seized into a single strap, and secured to an eye-bolt
on each side of the main cap, and through lubber’s hole on deck. I
have seen these braces led through blocks in main topmast rigging, in
harbor, where appearance has been much studied.
=167.=--CROSSING TOPGALLANT YARDS.
One man stands on the topmast cap; two on the crosstrees (one on each
side), one of the latter shoves off the grommet, and rigs the upper
yard-arm; the man on the opposite side bears off,--one man stands in
the topmast rigging to put on the lower lift and brace; another stands
on the topsail yard, ready to bear off; the lower lift should be well
manned in the top.
When the order “sway out of the chains,” is given, the man standing on
the fore part of the top bears the yard rope off, to clear the yard-arm
of the top--when clear, “sway away.” When the yard-arm is clear of the
crosstrees, the grommet is shoved off, the upper lift and brace is put
on, and the order “sway higher” is given; then the lower lift and brace
is put on, and the lift hauled well taut. The man on the cap has the
parrel-lashing in his hand, ready for passing; he reeves a turn, and
on the order, “sway cross,” he hauls on the lizard. The lower lift is
boused on, and the yard falls across; the braces are hauled taut, and
the yard squared.
When a ship is going to sea, the lifts and braces are stopt to the
jackstay, and the topgallant yard ropes toggled for halliards, or
half-hitched over the upper block. To toggle the halliards: Strap two
single blocks, with single straps, leaving an eye below the seizing,
in one, to take a small lashing; in the other to take the bight of the
topgallant yard rope. Lash the block with the small eye, to the eye of
a lower shroud, and reeve the yard rope through it. To the strap of the
other block secure the toggle with a nettle lanyard.
_Note._--Separate halliards may be fitted to dog on to the yard rope,
with a double-tailed lizard, and hook the lower block to an eye-bolt
in the top, which answers a better purpose.
[Illustration]
=168.=--ROYAL YARDS
Are fitted the same as topgallant yards, and rigged the same, with the
exception of the quarter blocks, which are single. In small vessels
they have no jackstay, the sail being bent to the yard. Topgallant
sails are often bent the same way, but jackstays keep the sail much
better up on the yard. Some prefer a wooden batten nailed to the
yard. Iron jackstays are now used for all vessels in the navy. (_New
Regulation._)
_Fore Royal Braces._--Two blocks fitted in one strap, as span blocks,
are lashed round the main topgallant mast-head; the blocks standing
on the foremost quarter, on each side. Between the after part of the
fore topmast trestle-trees, _a piece of wood with two sheaves_, the
same size, and a large one in the centre, is secured.[13] The braces
are single, an eye is spliced in one end to fit the royal yard-arm;
the other end rove through the span-blocks, back again through the
sheaves in the fore topmast trestle-trees, and into the fore top.
The blocks are often strapped separately, and seized into the strap
with a round seizing, leaving room for a seizing to be passed through
the strap, and round the eye of the topgallant stay, before going
on the funnel, one on each side. This will not look so neat as span
blocks, and are not so easily taken off and put on. The blocks for
royal braces are often seized on the topgallant stay, with the idea
of clearing the foot of the main royal.
_Main royal braces_ are fitted in the same manner as the fore, and
led through single blocks on mizen-topgallant mast-head, and back
into the main top; or through lubber’s hole in the mizen-top on deck.
The latter is decidedly the best plan, as they can be much better
attended to when under the eye of the officer of the watch, than when
left to the topmen.
_Mizen royal braces_ are fitted the same as the others, and lead
through sheaves in the after ends of the main topmast crosstrees, and
into the top.
_Crossing royal yards._--They are crossed the same as the topgallant
yards. When they are rigged aloft, the topgallant masts should be
fitted with jacks for the men to stand on, not only to expedite the
crossing, but also for the safety of the men. They are made of iron,
and put on the topgallant mast immediately over the hounds; the jack
is made round to fit the mast, and is put on before the funnel, if
used. The horns on each side are of a proportioned length to the
mast; an eye is turned in the end of each horn, for the royal rigging
to reeve through, and set up as before. When no royal rigging, the
breast backstay should be rove through the eye, and set up in the top
with a gun tackle purchase, fitted between the two after dead-eyes.
Royal rigging is quite unnecessary, in my opinion, except in large
vessels--the breast and standing backstay is sufficient.
_Royal sheets_ are either toggled or bent to the clews, rove through
sheaves, in the yard-arms, and through the after-sheave in quarter
block, on the topgallant yard; through leading thimbles on the
topmast rigging, and into the top, or on deck.
[13] This piece of wood is called a fair-leading chock.
=169.=--ROYAL AND TOPGALLANT GEAR.
When the topgallant and royal yards are sent on deck, the topgallant
sheets are stopped to the topmast-head, and hauled taut on deck. I have
seen them in harbor stopt to the tye-blocks close down to the yard.
The former is decidedly the best plan, as they are always ready for
bending; the clewlines and bowlines, are also stopped at the mast-head.
The lifts and braces are taken outside the topgallant rigging, and the
eyes stopt to the rigging at the topmast-head, before all;--hauled taut
on deck, and in the top.
Royal gear is stopt at the topgallant mast-head, and hauled taut on
deck, or in the top.
=170.=--SPANKER-BOOM, TRYSAIL-MAST, AND GAFF.
The spanker-boom, trysail-mast, and gaff, may be got on board by the
yard and stay-tackle. Put the hoops on the trysail-mast, and stop them;
sway away by a pendant tackle, and point the mast through the after
chock of the trestle-trees; lash its head to the mizen mast-head;
leather the boom in the wake of the crutch; seize on sheet-blocks,
and reeve the sheets; tar the boom, put over the foot-ropes, which
are set up, just outside the taffrail; boom-guys, which go with a
gun-tackle purchase to the quarters. Hook the topping lift to an iron
span around the boom; ship and key the boom; seize on a cleat to belay
the outhaulers to; then leather the jaws of the gaff, fit throat, and
peak-halliard blocks, brail blocks,[14] vangs and blocks,--reeve throat
and peak-halliards, hoist up the gaff, and haul taut the vangs.
The spencer gaff may be rigged nearly in the same manner.
Chocks should be fitted to go in between the lower and trysail
mast-heads. Copper the mast, in the way of the jaws.
[14] Cheek-blocks are allowed, fitted to all gaffs, by new
regulation. (_See Block Table._)
=171.=--SPANKER-BOOM SHEET AND GUYS IN ONE.
Into a bolt, with a thimble in each quarter, strap a double block with
a single strap; then seize into two grommet-straps, worked round the
boom, (wormed and covered,) two single blocks, one on each side, just
outside the taffrail, or crutch. Secure these blocks in their straps,
with a round seizing passed between the block and the boom. The rope
for the guys is middled and cut; then an eye, or cut splice made to fit
the boom end. Take the larboard guy, and reeve it through one of the
sheaves in the double block on the quarter, through the single block on
the boom, through the other sheave in the double block, through a fair
leader in the side, and pull it up on deck. The starboard one is rove
in the same manner, through the block on the starboard quarter.
=172.=--SPANKER-BOOM TOPPING-LIFTS.
A cheek with a sheave in it, is bolted on each side of the mizen
trestle-trees, under the rigging; instead of this cheek, a single
block is often strapped into a bolt, with a thimble in it. On the boom
outside the taffrail, is an iron hoop, with an eye-bolt on each side,
and thimbles in them. Parcel the thimbles in the outside bolts, and
into them splice the topping lifts; the other end reeve down through
the cheeks on the trestle-trees, or block, and splice a parceled
thimble in the end, for the purpose of hooking the jigger-tackle.
=173.=--A BRIG OR SCHOONER’S MAIN-BOOM.
There being so little boom projecting over the stern, guys are
unnecessary. On each quarter, strap a double block, and one on
each side of the boom, in separate straps: through these reeve the
sheet,--the standing-part from the strap of the quarter-block, and
hauling part through one of the sheaves of the quarter-block. In
working with the watch they are found very useful; one man can ease
over, while two more can take in the slack. A boom-tackle is fitted
with a pendant, to hook forward to an eye-bolt outside, and used when
necessary. (_Also crotch-ropes_).
=174.=--REEVING PEAK-HALLIARDS.
The standing-part is spliced into an eye-bolt underneath, or bottom
of the block; then the other end rove through the inside block on the
gaff, from forward, aft; then through a sheave in the double block,
through the outer block on the gaff, from forward, aft, and down
through the sheave in the double block, and through a leading sheave in
the bitts, or block on deck.
_You may dispense with one block, and splice the standing-part round
the gaff._
=175.=--REEVING THROAT-HALLIARDS.
The standing-part is spliced into the single block, which is hooked to
the gaff, up through the double block under the top, down through the
single block, up again through the other sheave in double block, and
through a leader, opposite to the peak-halliards.
=176.=--TO FIT SINGLE VANGS.
Middle the required length of rope, and seize a cuckold’s-neck in
the bight to fit the gaff-end, and lead one end on each side. The
cuckold’s-neck should be neatly covered with canvass, and two snug
seizings put on each quarter of the neck, showing two parts of the rope
on the top of the gaff, and one underneath. Paint the eye the same
color as the gaff.
=177.=--DOUBLE VANGS.
Seize into each bight of a long grommet strap, a single block, and
secure the strap round the end of the gaff, outside the rigging cleats,
with a lashing passed round the strap underneath the gaff, and over
each block. Splice the standing part of the fall into a bolt; reeve the
other end through the block on the gaff, and through a single block
strapped into a bolt, also in the bulwarks. Blocks fitted in this
way are called span-blocks. This is decidedly the best plan, as the
purchase can be of use until hauled close down on deck. Pendants are
now seldom used.
=178.=--FITTING GAFFS WITH CHEEKS, OR BRAIL-BLOCKS.
Close to the jaws, outside the single blocks for the throat-brails,
secure two double blocks, strapped in the same manner as the outer
blocks used for the peak-brails. The peak-brails, after being rove
through the outer blocks, are led through the double ones in the jaws,
and on deck through leading blocks.
Gaffs are also fitted with cheeks, instead of blocks; and sheaves cut
in the jaws for the throat-brails, and fair leaders; which is the
approved plan at present, and is very neat. Some ships in the service
have their gaffs fitted to hook to an iron band, with a hook in the end
of the gaff, instead of jaws. Others travel up and down an iron groove
or railway, fitted to the lower mast (using no trysail-mast). Others
again use a wooden batten nailed to the mast; some an iron jackstay,
and some a rope one. _The try-sail masts are preferable, in a gale of
wind._
=179.=--GETTING UP A GAFF.
Pass the jaw rope; man the throat and peak-halliards, the former
best, and sway the gaff up; when high enough, rack the halliards with
spun-yarn to their own parts aloft, and the halliards can be hauled up,
and coiled in the top out of the way. Steady the gaff amidships, by the
vangs.
_Note._--All gaffs should be peaked, or elevated to an angle parallel
with the mizen-topmast stay.
=180.=--LOWER STUDDING-SAIL OR SWINGING-BOOMS.
The lower swinging-booms have goose-necks fitted on one end, which in
line-of-battle ships and frigates, hook to the foremost part of the
fore chains, to iron straps fitted for the purpose. They are got in
their places when brought alongside, with a burton from the foremost
shroud, and another on the after backstay. One-third from the outer
end, an iron band is fitted, to which the rigging is hooked. When
secured for sea, they are got close into the side and lashed to a bolt
for the purpose. When in harbor, in large ships, they are sometimes
hooked to eye-bolts in the bends, which bringing them lower down, cause
the boats, when moored, to ride easier. A small Jacob’s-ladder is
fitted to the fore chains, and sets up to the boom close into the side;
also one or two seized on the boom some distance out, for the men to
get into their boats with.
The fore guy is hooked to the boom, the other end taken forward and
rove through a single block strapped in a bolt in the bowsprit cap, and
led in on the forecastle. It is sometimes rove through a block on the
spritsail-yard, and is of great use in getting the boom from the side;
if no spritsail-yard, blocks can be fitted round the outriggers, or
whiskers.
The after guy is hooked to the boom, and the other end led in through
a sheave in the side; in large ships, on the main deck, close before
the gangway port; in flush-deck vessels through the bulwarks. In large
vessels they are rove double.
The topping lift is hooked to the boom the same as the guys.
_The topping lift block._--Take a single block, large enough for the
rope to be rove in; seize it into a single strap, wormed and served,
leaving a small eye beyond the seizing, to take several parts of
small rope. Seize this block on to the second shroud (if only one
swifter forward), half-way between the futtock-stave, and seizing
of the eye, passing sufficient turns to secure it well. When seized
in this way there will be more space between the shrouds, than if
seized closer up, which will allow the topping lift to work clearer,
and cause no chafing. I have seen this block seized to the eye of a
shroud well up, but prefer the former.
_The lizard._--On the topping lift put a large-sized thimble; round
this thimble splice a piece of rope about five fathoms long; for a
large ship a piece of three-inch rope would be large enough. Reeve
the topping lift between the first and second futtock shrouds,
through the block, and send the end between the shrouds on deck.
A luff-tackle purchase is often fitted to the topping lift, half-way
up the fore rigging.
Hoist up ship and key the boom; put on single blocks for forward and
after guys, reeve, hook, and haul taut the topping lift.
_Note._--Several ships in the service have span blocks fitted across
their fore cap, and a clump block, or bull’s-eye, fitted on each fore
yard-arm, abaft the lift block. The topping lift is rove through the
block on the cap, then through the one on the yard-arm, to the boom;
which does away with the lizard, and when the boom is alongside, at
sea, the topping lift can be unhooked from the boom, and triced up
with the rest of the studding sail gear, under the fore yard. _This
method is much approved of in large ships._
=181.=--LOWER STUDDING SAIL OUTHAUL, BLOCK, &c., &c., &c.
Seize a single block into a double strap, leaving an eye to fit the
boom end, wormed and served. Then take a piece of six-thread stuff, and
pass several turns round the strap and the bolt, and hitch it round all
parts.
_Topmast studding-sail tack-block._--Take a single block the required
size, strap it with a good piece of rope, leaving a tail long enough
to clove-hitch round the boom, and seize to the bolt in the end. This
block is often strapped round the boom, and kept in its place with a
bolt in the end of the boom, or a hole bored for the purpose. Sheaves
are sometimes cut, but they are bad, as the least slue in the boom
takes away whatever purchase the sheave would give.
_Lower studding-sail halliard block, &c., &c._--Seize a single block
into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the boom taut. A small
cleat should be nailed on the boom, to prevent the block slipping
in, or the strap secured with a bolt. When the halliards are rove, a
single block is hooked to the burton pendant, or lashed. The pendant
is sometimes fitted with a block spliced in one end, and secured to
the mast-head, over the rigging, with a lashing passed through an
eye spliced in the other, and round the mast-head. This is quite
unnecessary, as the block lashed or hooked to the pendant, answers
the same purpose.
_Reeving the halliards._--Reeve through the block to the pendant,
before the rigging, then through the block on the boom Send the
hauling part through lubber’s hole on deck, and through a leading
block.
The boom brace is spliced round the boom between the blocks. A single
block is spliced in the end, half-way between the boom; when the yard
is square, reeve a fall. The standing part, when the sail is set,
is clove-hitched round the foremost shroud of the main rigging; the
other end through a leading tail block to the same place. Small ships
are not allowed boom braces.
For inner halliards, use the fore clew-jigger, hooked to the forward
part of the top. When the sail is not set, and the boom rigged in,
the inner halliards are also used to trice the gear up; it is then
stopped with yarns snugly to the jackstay, and the ends of the gear
coiled inside the futtock-shrouds, being previously stopped together.
=182.=--TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL SPAN BLOCKS, HALLIARDS, &c.
Seize two single blocks into each bight of a strap, long enough to go
across the topmast cap; allowing the blocks to hang clear on each side.
Take a piece of small rope, and pass a lashing round the strap, over
both blocks, under the cap, and then seize the blocks to eye-bolts in
the cap.
To make the strap, take a piece of rope of sufficient size and length;
worm and serve it, splice both ends together, and secure the blocks
in their places with round seizings. Through these blocks reeve the
halliards; first through the span blocks down, take the upper end and
reeve it down on the foreside of the topsail yard, through the block
on the neck of the boom-iron; the other end is sent down abaft the
foremost crosstrees, before the topmast rigging, through lubber’s hole
on deck, and through a leading block. When not in use at sea, the
bending end is hitched round the clew of the topsail, and the hauling
part hauled up in the top. In harbor they are generally unrove, and the
span-blocks taken down.
The downhaul is bent to the sail and made up in it.
Sheets are also bent to the sail and made up.
[Illustration]
=183.=--TOPGALLANT STUDDING-SAIL BOOMS, &c.
_Tricing lines_--Are single. A single block is seized on to a shroud,
close up, and a fall rove through it; one end is bent to the boom, the
other sent into the top. When in harbor, a thimble should be fitted
a few feet above the topsail yard, on the foremost shroud, and the
tricing line rove through it. As everything is generally done in a
hurry, trying who will be first, the booms are hardly ever properly
secured, if lowered, after loosing to dry, and the men running out on
the yards with the booms swinging about, frequently occasion accidents.
_Topmast studding-sail boom._--When no boom brace is allowed and
no lower studding-sail set, carrying the topmast studding-sail,
blowing fresh, a brace can be put on, without rigging the boom in,
as follows:--Take a belaying-pin, or anything that will answer for a
toggle, and secure it to the lower studding-sail halliards, with a
clove-hitch round the toggle, hauling the parts well taut; haul the
toggle close to the block on the boom, and belay; and it will answer
equally as well as a brace. The inner end of the halliards should not
be let go, for in case the lower studding-sail requires to be set,
the end can be hauled in, the toggle taken out, and the halliards
overhauled for bending.
_Note._--Should the boom _top up_ much, and require a martingale more
than a brace, toggle the halliards the same way, and bouse it well
taut through a leading-block, perpendicular to the boom.
=184.=--GETTING STUDDING-SAIL BOOMS UP.
All studding-sail booms have two holes in the inner end, for a
heel-lashing, and strap for the in-and-out-jigger, and sometimes a
sheave in the other end for the tack. Take a piece of rope long enough
for the heel-lashing; make a knot (a wall and crowned), in one end;
reeve it through the hole in the boom end, haul through to the knot,
and whip the other end; with the latter take two half-hitches, a little
inside the sheaves, or outer end, and seize the end to the boom. Take
a tail-block and half-hitch it half-way out the fore or main topsail
yard, according to the boom required to be got up. Through this block,
reeve a rope as a whip, (if a heavy boom, it should be a double one,)
bend one end to the span, made with the heel-lashing, so as to balance
the boom; the other reeve through a leading block on deck. Stop the
hoisting part to the boom end by the sheave, and sway away. When high
enough, cut the stops at the boom-end, and the boom will hang in the
whip, on a line with the yard; point it through the boom-iron,--cast
off the whip and span, and secure the heel-lashing, rigging boom out to
square mark.
=185.=--TOPGALLANT STUDDING-SAIL GEAR.
If blocks in the topgallant rigging, the halliards are rove through
them; one end is led into the top, abaft all, the other through the
jewel-block on the yard-arm. Jewel blocks are single blocks, seized
into single straps, having an eye to go over the bolt in the topgallant
yard-arm. A small toggle is secured to the strap with a knittle
lanyard. The eye in the strap is put over the bolt, and the toggle
put in--the upper end of the halliards are rove through this block,
on the foreside of the topgallant yard. When the sail is not bent,
the studding-sail halliards are overhauled down, and hitched to the
foremost shroud ready for bending. The jewel-blocks are always taken
off, when getting ready to send the yards down, and an overhaul knot
made on the end of the halliards, to prevent them from unreeving from
the blocks. Whenever the order is given to “unbend the topgallant
gear,” the jewel-blocks must be taken off.
_Tacks._--Sheaves are sometimes cut in the boom ends, but as they
hardly ever answer well, and generally cause delay, and likewise
require more men to get the tack out, blocks are decidedly
preferable. Tail-blocks are best, as they can be so easily taken off
and put on. Clove-hitching round the boom, and the end secured to the
eye-bolt, is preferable to having a hole bored in the boom for the
tail to reeve through, as it only weakens it, and is not necessary.
The tack is rove through this block, and when the sail is to be set,
the inner end is bent to the clew of the sail; the outer end led to
the after part of the top, where it is hauled out, and generally
belayed to a shroud or cleat.
_Note._--Belaying either the halliards or tack to the rigging is bad,
as they are constantly coming up. Cleats should be nailed on the
after part of the top for the tacks. Two small tail-blocks, one on
each side, secured to the after futtock-plate, for leading blocks,
are of great use in getting the tacks out.
[Illustration:
1. Paint and oil room.
2. General Store-room.
3. Bread-room.
4. Coal-locker.
5. Tanks.
6. Casks.
7. Chain-locker.
8. Tier Gratings.
9. Shot-locker.
Sail room 10. Shell-room.
11. Spirit-room.
12. Bread-room.
13. Slop-room.
14. Marine Stores.
15. Magazine.
* Filling-room.
16. Light-room.
A Representation of the Internal Arrangements and Stowage of the Hold
of a First-Class Sloop-of-War, U. S. N.]
=186.=--STOWING-HOLD AND SPIRIT-ROOM. (BALLAST AND TANKS).
See that the limbers are clear from chips or dirt, and place the
limber boards. Clean, sweep, and white-wash the hold; place hoop-poles
athwart-ships for dunnage, as near to each other as possible, so that
each pig of iron will rest at least on two of them. The rust should be
well beaten off the ballast, and each pig white-washed. As the stowing
of a ship’s hold and ballast, depends so much on her build, it is not
possible to lay down any precise rule; it is, however, recommended to
preserve a strict line of _level_ in the position of the tanks. To
effect this, and to produce the desired uniformity of surface, the
stower must commence the stowage from the midship stanchions in the
hold, and work _outwards_ regularly towards the direction of the wings.
The slightest irregularity of surface in the tops of the tanks may be
the means of throwing out the general stowage, and ultimately causing
a considerable deficit in the quantity of water which the hold is
calculated to contain.
A short, though rather a rough way of calculating the weight of ballast
required, is to allow one ton of ballast, for ten of tonnage for each
class of vessels.[15]
Winging the ballast tends to make a vessel roll, and building up
a-midships to keep her steady. Without venturing on details, it may be
remarked that the plan of keeping the ballast in the body of the ship,
and clear of the extremities, seems to be most generally approved of;
while at the same time care should be taken to keep her on, or parallel
to _the line of flotation_, designated by the builder. The ballast in
the spirit-room, should be a continuation of that in the hold. Make a
draft of the ballast, indicating the exact number of pigs, the position
they occupy, and their exact weight.
Previous to getting on board the water tanks, a plan of stowing them
may be easily arranged by means of rough models of them in wood,
which a carpenter can easily make. In getting the tanks from the
store, attention should be directed to the lid-sockets, which if not
properly lined with fearnought, will allow much of their contents to
escape in rolling; as also to the obtaining the proper quantity of
keys, and see that they are short enough to work between the deck and
tanks, if the vessel is a small one. White-washing tanks inside, is
found by experience to be highly useful in keeping the water pure. The
screws for letting off the water require very careful treatment; for
they are apt, if once started, never to be so tight again; and after
being three or four years in use, the nuts decay, rendering the keys
useless. If the water cannot be turned off from the tanks by the proper
mode, there seems to be no other way of getting rid of it, in a case of
necessity, but by forcing a hole in the bottom with a crowbar.
The tanks should be stowed during the time the ship is rigging.
_Note._--By a late order, the valve in the bottom of all water tanks
is stopped up, and the screw taken out. Those that are now made new,
have no screw. There is also an alteration in the lids for the better.
[15] The weight of chain cables and water tanks, are considered in
this calculation, also half of the shot. Also a consultation with the
builder.
=187.=--STOWING CASKS.
Strike down their beds, place and whitewash them; then commence stowing
the casks at the after bulk-head in the hold, observing to have the
largest casks in the kelson tier, and the gauges of the cask on each
side of the kelson, to correspond. Be careful that the bung-holes are
all up, the bilge free, and head clear.
After completing the first tier, go on with the second, placing hanging
beds between the casks, and stowing barked wood in all the breakages.
As the tiers approach the wings, let the size of the cask diminish.
=188.=--STOWAGE OF PROVISIONS, NAVAL STORES, &c.
Stow the beef on the larboard side, and the pork, starboard side; with
the flour, rice, and beans in the wings; chocking all fore and aft with
wood. The casks in the spirit-room are stowed in the same manner, with
the exception that the stowage is commenced forward, instead of aft.
Whiskey, molasses, and vinegar are always stowed in casks. The liquors
of the medical department, and purser’s stores, are generally stowed in
the spirit-room. Dry provisions should not be stowed under the wet, and
should be placed in such a manner, that when required, they may be got
at without disturbing all the hold.
Make a draft of the lower, and riding tiers, and spirit-room, with the
guages of all the casks on the draft; the number of barrels, boxes,
&c., with the kind of provisions they contain.
The shot and wads may also be got on board, and stowed in their
respective lockers.
=189.=--STOWING CHAIN CABLES.
The chain cables are got on board through the hawse-holes,[16] and
paid down the main hatchway, into their respective lockers. They are
from _ninety to one hundred and eighty_ fathoms in length, and are
slip-shackled, or lashed to the kelson.
_Note._--See table of allowance of chain cable for class, &c.
[16] If the vessel is alongside of the wharf, the chain-cables may be
got in by a _shoot_, through the _port_, or over the _rail_.
=190.=--TO GET ON BOARD AND STOW THE HEMP CABLES.
Hemp-cables are one hundred and twenty fathoms in length, two are now
allowed to all vessels, from a ship of the line, to a third class
sloop of war, inclusive. The cables are taken from the rope-walk, and
coiled upon a car having a large hole in its bottom, and after being
transported to the vessel, or lighter at the wharf, the upper end of
the coil is passed down through all the flakes, and through the hole
in the bottom of the car, then coiled away again in the lighter. By
dipping the end in this manner, grinds or kinks are prevented, and the
cable is got into the lighter, with only one turn in it.
The lighter being towed off to the ship, haul under the bows; place
mats in the sides and sills of one of the forward ports; get the cables
in on deck, and French-flake them fore and aft. They are now with the
same number of turns in them, as when they left the rope-walk. See that
the tiers are clear, and that the gratings are properly placed for the
cable to lay on. Pass the end of the spare one below, and coil away
with the sun, on the starboard side of the tier; make the coil as large
as possible, taking care not to have too many flakes in a sheave, as
the inside strands of the inner ones would be injured, by breaking in.
Pass the ends of the starboard one on the larboard side, and the
larboard on the starboard side. Clinch them around the main-mast, or to
the beams, coil them away with the sun, letting the ends remain out, to
be pointed or tailed if necessary. Join the pointed ends with a short
splice, worming the tails along the cable. The upper ends are crowned
in the following manner, viz.: clap a seizing round the cable about two
fathoms from the end, and unlay it to the seizing. With the three inner
strands form an artificial eye; cut off the three next ones and woold
their ends; with the three outer ones, form a crown, worm the ends
along the cable, and clap on seizings in proportion.
The stream cable and messenger are coiled away in the tier of the spare
cable. The hawsers, if possible, should be stowed in such a manner,
that the end of every _one_ could be passed up together if required.
=191.=--CATHEAD STOPPERS.
When not fitted with the slip, or patent stoppers, a good piece of
rope, in proportion to the size of the anchor, has a stopper-knot in
one end, then rove through the cathead, and hauled taut. It should be
well wormed, parceled, and served in the way of the cat-heads, and
sufficiently far towards the end, to take the ring of the anchor.
The end should have a becket put in, and pointed over. Take a piece
of small rope, and splice it into the inside yarns of the stopper,
the same as a tail, or knot the yarns together; then marl down, and
point over. The becket should be made large enough to take a good
hauling-line, for the purpose of hauling the end of the stopper
in-board, after being rove through the ring of the anchor.
=192.=--SHANK PAINTER.
A piece of chain is secured to the side; a large thimble, well
parceled, is put into the last link; round this thimble splice the
piece of rope intended to make the tail of the shank-painter; it is the
same sized rope as the cathead stopper. The other end is pointed, with
a becket in.
_Note._--The patent iron slip or trick-stopper, is now generally used
in the service, by those who can procure them. They are not allowed
by the regulation, but quite a number of ships have them fitted.
=193.=--FISH-DAVIT GEAR.
The davit is stept into a shoe in the fore-chains, for the purpose.
A double block is seized into a double strap, leaving an eye to fit
the davit-head; both parts of the strap are marled together. Another
double block is seized into a double strap, having a large hook[17]
and thimble, to take the arm of the anchor. Take a large single block,
seize it into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the davit-head; it
will lay the opposite way to the double one, and allow the hauling part
of the fall to lead fore and aft along the gangway; or up aloft through
a leader to the fore pendants.
_Back rope._--To the back of the hook, clove-hitch and seize the
end down, of a piece of rope, long enough to lead to the fore
chains, or into the head, when the fish-fall is overhauled. This is
taken forward when hooking the fish. Cat-back is used for the same
purpose--_i. e._, _hooking the cat_.
_Guys, bolts, rigging, &c._--In the fore and after side of the davit,
bolts are driven. The fore-guy is a piece of stout rope, long enough
to reach from the davit, when stepped, to the after side of the
cat-head, leaving room for lashing. The after-guy is another piece
of rope, long enough to reach the after part of the fore-chains, and
both fitted as follows:--splice a hook and thimble in one end, into
the other splice an eye, and into this eye splice a lashing.
Get a jigger on the foremost swifter, and hoist the davit into the
step or shoe. Hook the guys to the bolts in the davit-head, and set
them up to the cat-head, and after part of the fore-chains. Put over
the double block, then the single, and reeve the fish-fall. Take
two tackles, clap a good strap round the foremast, hook the double
block to this strap, and the others to selvagee-straps round the
davit-head. The strap round the foremast should be in a direct line
with the davit-head when perpendicular. These tackles will answer for
topping-lifts, and will be found much better than the old-fashioned
topping-lifts for stowing anchors.
_Note._--I would recommend the iron davit, in preference to the
wooden one, on account of its being more durable, much neater, more
convenient for stowage and also requires less gear.
[17] Properly called a fish-hook.
[Illustration]
=194.=--GETTING ON BOARD, AND STOWING ANCHORS.
[Illustration]
The fish-davits being rigged, reeve and overhaul the cat and
fish-falls, get the anchors into a lighter, and tow them under the
bows; pass up the stream-cable, and clench it to the ring of the
bower-anchor; hook the cat, and run the anchor up to the cat-head. Pass
the stopper, hook the fish, and pass the shank-painter. Unbend the
stream-cable, and bend it to the waist-anchor, then drop the lighter
aft, and secure her under the berth of the anchor. Brace the fore yard
in, and the main yard up as much as possible; top them up a little,
hook a stout tackle to act as a rolling-tackle, and bouse the lifts
and trusses well taut. Pass a lashing round the slings of the yard, to
ease the trusses. Hook both top-burtons to the yard-arm, and set well
up the opposite breast-backstays. Pass a strap round the topmast, just
above the lower cap. Hook the double block of a stout pendant-tackle to
this strap, and the single one is hooked just without the place where
the bull’s-eye for the pendant is to be lashed; haul well taut the
lifts, burtons, and pendant-tackles alike--reeve whips, and get up the
triatic-stays. The bull’s-eyes for the pendants are lashed sufficiently
far out on the yards, to allow the anchor to clear the ship’s side.
Reeve the pendant up through it, and clench the end to the lower
mast-head; have a thimble in the lower end, to which the purchases are
hooked. Have a thwartship-tackle in readiness, to bouse the anchor to
the gunwale; lash the lower block of the main-purchases, to the crown
of the anchor, having guys from each fluke to keep it steady. The fore
purchase-block is lashed to the ring.
Rack the topsail-tye aloft, and hook the lower block of the
fore-topsail halliards to a stout strap, passed round the shank of
the anchor amidships, then lashed above the middle of the upper arm
of the stock. “Sway away;” when high enough, haul over on the stay
and thwart-ship tackles, and get the bill of the anchor upon the
gunwale. A cleat is nailed on the lower part of the stock, a lashing
passed under it, and round the timber-head in the after part of the
forecastle-bulwark for the purpose; another lashing from the same place
to the upper arm of the stock, and frap all together. A shore is fitted
from the side, on which the anchor rests, and a lashing passed round
the shank through a span-shackle bolt in the side for the purpose; the
inside fluke rests on a bill-board on the fore end of the chess-tree,
or after part of the fore chains. Some ships stow their anchors further
forward than others. The anchor being secured, unbend the stream cable,
and unlash purchases.
Drop the lighter round on the other side of the ship--shift over
the purchases, secure the yards, and get up the other bower and
waist-anchors in the same manner. When done, pass the stream-cable
below, and coil it down in the tier.
_Note._--Belaying cat-head stopper. After being boused well taut
with a jigger, take as many turns as the rope will allow, over the
timber-head on the forecastle bulwarks, and seize it well to its own
part with spun-yarn. The shank-painter is set taut and belayed in the
same manner.
=195.=--BENDING THE CABLES.
A rope is rove through the ring of the anchor, the end led in through
the hawse-hole, and bent to the cable with a timber-hitch, three or
four fathoms from the end, and stopt along to the end of the cable.
Haul out on the ring-rope, and when there is sufficient of the end
through the ring, cut the stops, unbend the ring-rope, and form an
inside clinch, having it smaller than the ring of the anchor. The bends
are put on opposite to each other, and a small bend put on near the end
to secure it. Render the cables as far as possible through the clinch,
and stop them together to prevent chafes, &c.
_Note._--The chain cables are shackled to the rings of the anchors;
then bend the buoys and buoy-ropes.
=196.=--TO RANGE AND STOPPER THE CABLES.
Before ranging the cables, they should be bitted, which is done as
follows:--When the cables are bent, haul up sufficient slack to form
a bight abaft the bitts; throw the bight which is thus formed, over
the head of the bitts (and in case it is to be weather bitted, take
another _turn_ round the cavil). In ranging, get a tail-block over
the hatchway, through which reeve a rope; overhaul down, and hitch
to the cable. Take the running part close out to the side, bouse on
the rope, and flake the cable fore and aft the deck. Clap on deck and
bitt-stoppers, before and abaft the bitts; put on rounding at the
range, if hemp, which is intended to veer, and also have cable mats
in readiness, to be used as may be required. If a hemp-cable, a small
range forward of the part bitted; if chain-cable it merely requires
bitting; ranging is unnecessary.
_Note._--When the anchor is let go, veer from the locker through the
compressor--(_i. e._, supposing it to be a chain.)
=197.=--STOPPERS, &c., &c.
_The trip-stoppers._--Both ends are made fast to eye-bolts under
the after part of the fore-channels. The score in the end of the
waist-anchor stock rests in the bight, and is used to trip the anchor
clear of the ship’s side, when let go.
Deck-stoppers are hooked to bolts in the deck. They have a knot worked
in the end, with a lanyard fast to it. The lanyard is passed round both
the stopper and cable, abaft the knot, and then wormed along the cable,
forward of it. (_See claw-stopper_).
Ring-stoppers are ropes middled; the bights are passed through the
deck-bolts, the ends rove through the bight, and dogged along the cable.
Bitt-stoppers are tailed and rove through the sampson-knee forward of
the bitts, then taken over the cable abaft the bitts, under again, and
wormed along the cable forward. A tackle may be hooked to this, and
used for veering.
Dog-stoppers are very long, and are used in the tiers. One end is
clenched round the main-mast, and the other wormed along the cable.
The wing-stoppers are similar, but are clenched around the orlop-deck
beams in the wings.
=198.=--COMPRESSORS, OR COMBING-STOPPERS.
For hemp-cables they are very long, and are tailed. Two holes are bored
through the deck, abaft the after beam of the hatch; one end of the
stopper is rove downwards through one of the holes, passed under the
cable, and rove up again, through the other hole. Both ends are then
dogged round the cable taut, so as to nip it against the beam.
The compressor for chain-cables is an iron elbow, one end of which is
bolted to the forward beam of the hatch underneath, and intended to
work on the bolt. The elbow goes round the cable, having an eye in the
other end, to which a luff-tackle is hooked; which being hauled on,
stoppers the cable effectually.
=199.=--PUTTING ON NIPPERS.
Nippers should be from three to five fathoms in length, and made of
the best rope-yarns. They are used when heaving up the anchor, and are
passed as follows:--Lay the messenger on the cable, and begin two or
three fathoms abaft the hawse-hole; two round turns are first taken
with the end of the nipper, round the messenger, and held by a boy,
then round both. The other end is wormed round the cable, as the first
was round the messenger. When the strain becomes heavy, racking, and
even round turns may be used, having also small heavers, and selvagees
to secure the ends; taking care to have dry ones to use when the anchor
is up and down.
_Note._--Some ships have done away with the nippers altogether, and
use nothing but the selvagee and heaver. Each nipper-man provides two
selvagees, and one heaver; also an iron pin of proper size to put
through the links of the chain-cable, to prevent the muddy chain from
slipping through the strap.
=200.=--IRON CLAW-STOPPERS, AND CLEAR-HAWSE SHACKLES.
[Illustration]
These are used for chain-cables, instead of rope-stoppers, and are
found very convenient, and more durable than rope. They are allowed
to every ship in the service by the new regulation, and are fitted
as follows:--A piece of chain four feet long, is fitted with a
devil’s-claw in one end, and a slip-hook in the other; a slip-ring also
in the long link in the chain, for the end of the slip-hook.
=201.=--TO CUT, AND PASS A MESSENGER.
The length should be equal to twice the distance from the after part
of the capstan, to the roller in the manger, and add four times the
circumference of the capstan-band; this is sufficient for splicing in
the eyes and taking turns. The messenger is passed with three round
turns, and then the eyes lashed with the lanyard, figure-of-eight
fashion. The part which is brought to the cable is undermost.
_Note._--Some messengers are fitted with a strap and toggle instead
of a lashing; this plan is much quicker than the old way. The size
of the strap, ought to be one half the size of the messenger; in
length it should be once the circumference of the capstan on the
bight. Instead of splicing the two ends of the strap together, make
a spritsail-sheet knot with the six strands, reeve one bight of the
strap through one eye of the messenger, the other bight through the
other eye, and toggle them together.
_To dip a messenger._--Cast off the lashing, slack up the turns, and
pass the eye up or down, as necessary, between the turns and capstan.
Render the turns through each other, and pass the lashing again.
=202.=--SPLICING ROPE-CABLES.
Cut off the ropemaker’s fag-end, and unlay the cable sufficiently far
for splicing. Take the inside yarns and lay them up into three strands,
equal to the piece of rope intended for the tails, and splice these
small strands and tails together. Take the outside yarns and make
them into three-yarn plaits or knittles, then marl the remaining yarn
down over the splice and tail, and point over all with the plaits or
knittles. The cable is then opened with setting fids and commanders,
and the splice made, each strand boused through with jiggers; the ends
are put in twice on the tier, and once on the anchor part. Take a good
piece of small-rope, and pass it as a round-seizing, close to the
splice, and cross it on all sides. When finished it will look square;
and pass another, with smaller stuff, close to the ends. Worm the ends
into the lay of the cable, and pass three or four spun-yarn seizings,
at equal distances round them and the cable, to keep them in the
lay--make the seizings, and whip the ends of the tails. The size of the
seizing, and number of turns, depend on the size of the cable.
[Illustration:
Packingham’s Rudder.
To bring-to a Messenger.
A Cap.
To bit a Cable.
Mariner’s Compass.
Packingham’s Rudder, &c., &c.]
_Bends._--The small rope used as seizings in clinching, are so
called. The end of the cable for clinching to the anchor should be
wormed with good strands, and backed with good spun-yarn, and the end
capped. The worming should be long enough to form the clinch, and
the cable well tarred before and after its being done. The lay of
the cable opens in clinching, and being wormed, it prevents the wet
getting into the heart of the rope, or lodging. To pass the bends,
have a good piece of rope of the length and size required; bring both
parts together, leaving one end a third longer than the other; then
pass it round both parts of the cable, and put both ends through
the bight. Pass the under turns with the short end, the upper or
riding-turns with the long one. Stop both ends well with spun-yarn
to their next parts, and cross the whole seizing or bend, with
sennit; pass the sennit on the bight, and secure both together with a
reef-knot.
=203.=--TO SHIP, AND UNSHIP A RUDDER.
Have the rudder brought under the stern, hung to a scow. Bore a hole
through the beam or carling over the rudder case--drive an eyebolt
up through it, and fit a washer and forelock. Strap a large single
block[18] with hook and thimble, and hook it to the eye-bolt; reeve a
top-pendant through the single block, down through the rudder-case,
and hitch it to an eye-bolt, which is temporarily fitted into the
rudder-head. Clap a deck-tackle on to the other end of the pendant;
have heel-ropes leading forward on each side, after being rove through
their respective holes in the rudder. Man the deck-tackle fall, and
hoist away. When the rudder is high enough, guy it fair with the
heel-ropes; see the pintles fair for entering the gudgeons,--lower
away, and fit in the wood-lock. Come up the pendant, unreeve the
heel-ropes--take the bolt from the rudder-head, also the one from the
beam or carling above--ship the tiller, and reeve the wheel-ropes.
_To unship it._--Fit the bolts, single block, pendant and deck-tackle
as before, unreeve the wheel-ropes, unship the tiller, knock out
the wood-lock, and “sway away.” When the pintles are clear of the
gudgeons, lower away, and secure it to the scow or lighter--tow it on
shore, and parbuckle, or hoist it out of the water or scow.
[18] If a top-block can be procured, it will answer best, as the neck
of the hook being shorter, it will give more hoist.
=204.=--GETTING THE GUNS ON BOARD.
[Illustration]
The gun-carriages and all the equipments belonging to the guns are
brought alongside in lighters, and hoisted in with the yard & stay. Get
them on their respective decks, and reeve the purchase for getting the
guns on board.
_Securing the main-yard._--To the bolts in the lower cap, hook
the double blocks of two burtons. The single ones are hooked to
selvagee-straps, round the yard, close to the lifts, and the falls
sent on deck, through leading-blocks. Bouse well taut the main-lifts
and burtons together, and belay. Then pass a good lashing round the
main-yard in the slings, and main-mast, to keep the yard steady, and
support the trusses, they being previously boused well taut.
Take the top tackle-pendant, and reeve it through a top-block,
secured well to the yard with a good lashing, passed round the hook,
on the outside quarter; take the pointed end over the cap, pass
it between the head of the mast and heel of the topmast, take two
half-hitches on its own part, or that from the yard, and secure the
end with a round-seizing of spun-yarn. Get a single whip upon the
main-yard, close to the lashing, bend one end to the hook of the
top-tackle fall-block; hoist the block up and hook it to the thimble
in the pendant. Through this and the other top-tackle fall-block,
reeve a fall; clench one end (the standing part), round the main yard
close to the block; the other end, when rove full, through a leading
block on deck, by the bitts.
The garnet-purchase is a pendant, with a thimble in the upper
end, which is hooked to the main-pendant-tackle; the other end is
rove down through holes bored in the deck for the purpose, and a
stout hook and thimble spliced or turned into the end. The garnet
should be long enough to go on the lower-deck, and the holes bored
perpendicular to the centre of the port through which the guns are to
be got on board. The slings are made of breaching-stuff, twice the
length of the gun, the ends spliced together, and the strands put in
twice each way; seize an eye on the bight, large enough to go over
the breach of the gun; put over the eye, and put the slings along
the upper part of the gun, lashing them with a piece of rope round
all, just forward of the trunnion; put the other end over the muzzle,
and in toggle. Lash the purchase-block to the bight of the slings,
and also bend on a hawser to weigh the gun, in the event of parting
the purchase. “Sway away;” drop the lighter from under the gun, and
when the breach is as high as the port, hook the garnet and also
an a-thwartship-tackle to the breech-ring; haul on the tackle and
bring the gun in through the port--run a carriage under--lower away;
place the trunnions fair, and clamp them; come up the purchases, and
transport the gun to its port. The lower and main-deck guns are got
in in the same way. The cannonades are taken over the rail; a toggle
is put in the muzzle, one bight of the slings over the cascable, the
other over the muzzle, and back-lashed to the toggle; the stay or
purchase-block is lashed on midships of the slings, and the stay or
pendant-tackle to the same place; consequently the gun will come in
square. Have the bed and slide ready, place it fair, and drive in the
naval-bolt. Ship the screws, beds, and coins; reeve the breeching,
hook side and train-tackles; see the guns square in the ports, and
secure them.
The main-deck guns might be taken in over the rail, and struck down
the main-hatch; but I prefer their being taken in through the port,
if plenty of men.
_Note._--The reason for having additional security on the main-yard
is, because in getting in the guns, the strain is altogether on the
yard; while in getting up the anchors, the strain is divided between
two yards. The burtons are sometimes frapped in with the main-lift,
between the yard and cap; but I prefer their not being done so, as
they will all render fairer, when the strain comes on them. It is
customary to top the main-yard up; but I saw a line-of-battle ship’s
guns got in without it, and as it brings a greater strain on the
slings and trusses, it should not be done to so great an extent as is
the practice.
_Caution._--When the garnet-purchase is raising the breech to the
level required to place the gun in its carriage, care must be taken
that the main-purchase be _not_ lowered by a turn, but that the men
on the fall “walk back” with a steady step.
When the gun is lodged in its carriage, it is removed to its proper
port, and another carriage is rolled to the receiving port, ready for
the reception of the next gun, and so on.
=205.=--FITTING SHACKLE-BREECHINGS.
If it be required to fit the breechings on this recently improved
plan, it will be necessary to taper and point both ends of the rope
preparatory to splicing or turning-in a shackle on each extremity. The
shackle should be turned-in and secured to each end of the breeching by
two separate seizings, one close to the shackle, and the other towards
the pointed end of the rope. They are frequently spliced into a thimble
and then shackled, which I think is much neater.[19]
By this simple and serviceable method, the breeching may be shifted
in a few seconds, it being no longer necessary to reeve it through
the ring at the breech. An opening is now made in the cascable, which
admits the introduction of the breeching on the bight; and the cascable
fitted with a hinge or snatch, and sometimes a bolt going through the
cascable, confines the breeching, and prevents it jumping out on the
recoil of the gun.
[19] This last improvement was introduced by FRANCIS GRICE, _Esq._,
chief Naval Constructor, _U. S. N._
=206.=--TRIATIC STAYS.
A double block is strapped into a pendant, a hook and thimble spliced
into one end; a single block is strapped with a hook and thimble, a
fall is rove, the standing-part bent into a becket in the strap of the
single block; sometimes the double block is strapped, and the pendant
spliced in over the seizing. A good strap with a thimble seized into
it, is fitted to the strap of the lower block. A piece of rope is
spliced round the strap of the fore-stay block, and the other end, when
cut to the required length, spliced round the strap of the main-stay
block, and seized. This is called the span, and is generally the
length between the fore and main-hatchways. The main-stay hooks to a
strap with a thimble in it, from round the main-mast-head on the fore
side; the fore from one abaft, fitted in the same manner. The main
one generally comes down alongside the slings, the fore one between
the trestle-trees, abaft. The pendant and tackle are sometimes fitted
separate, to hook, and are easier stowed away.
_Note._--In case of emergency, these pendants may be taken round the
mast-head, and hooked to their own parts. I have known some ships to
use them this way altogether.
=207.=--HOISTING IN SPARS.
Overhaul down the fore and main-yard tackles, fore and main-stays,
and lead their falls to the opposite side of the deck the spars come
in at. Hook burtons to the lower caps (double blocks), single ones to
selvagees round the lower yard-arm, close inside the lifts. Send the
falls on deck, and pull up the lifts and burtons together, and trusses;
brace the fore-yard in, and hook on to the spars. They should be always
hoisted in as stowed.[20]
If the spars are too long to come in abreast, between the fore and
main-masts, such as topmasts, hook the main-stay to the strap round the
foremost end, and fore-stay to the after one; then hook the yards to
separate straps made of pieces of stout rope knotted together, or good
selvagees, according to the weight of the spar. Man the yards and walk
them up; when clear of hammock-nettings, haul on the main-stay, ease
the fore and main-yards, keeping the spar square, and get the foremost
end inside the rigging; then ease the main-stay, and get the spar in
its place on the booms. Small spars can be got in with the main-yard, a
double whip on main-stay, or single guy if required.
[20] The spars intended to be stowed underneath, should be hoisted
in first; such as topmasts, half-yards, and jib-boom, for the lower
tier, and round off with the smaller spars on the top.
=208.=--STOWING BOOMS.
The spars on the starboard side are stowed as follows, viz.:
Main-topmast, head aft; main-topgallant, (mast-fishes) half-yard,
main topmast studding-sail booms, and jib-boom. On the larboard
side--fore-topmast, head forward; fore-topgallant-mast, mast-fish,
half-yard, fore topmast studding-sail booms, flying-jib-boom, &c.
There are several small spars which are equally divided, to make the
booms as snug and neat as possible. A great deal of room can be gained
by stowing them amidships in one pile, and the boats on each side.
As the spars are stowed, they should be _numbered on each end_, also
a list taken, and painted on the foreside of the boom-boards; by so
doing it will save much time and trouble to find any spar that may be
required; as I have seen all the booms unlashed before a spar was found.
The booms are lashed to span-shackles in the deck for the purpose. A
few small spars should be kept out, to drive under the lashing, to set
all taut. When stowed they are covered with tarpaulins, or matting made
for the purpose. When the spars are all in, square the yards.
_Note._--It is becoming the general practice, to stow both topmasts
with their heads forward. Many ships stow all their spars amidships
in one pile, with the exception of the fore and main-topmasts,
which are stowed outside of the boats; spare main-topsail yard on
the larboard-quarter, the fore on the starboard-quarter, in the
chains, and spare jib-boom across the stern, secured underneath the
stern-davits.[21]
[21] Some ships stow topmasts and all amidships; but this is a bad
plan, as it would be necessary to take out all, to get a topmast if
required, it being underneath.
[Illustration: E. PLURIBUS UNUM]
[Illustration: Brig-of-War, under full Sail.]