=85.=--LAUNCHING A SHIP.
After the carpenters have completed the hull of the vessel, the
necessary preparations for launching are commenced as follows:--
Get an anchor on each bow; get the cables on board and bend them to
the anchors; range and bitt the cables; bend the buoy ropes, and see
everything clear for letting go the anchors.
It will then be necessary to get four stout hawsers on the spar deck,
two on each side; bend one to the other, and have them coiled down
clear for running. This being done, pass the ends of two hawsers
out forward, through the warping chocks on each bow; pass the ends
aft, one on each side, and make them fast to some secure place, on
their respective sides of the launching slip, as clear of the ways
as possible. Stop the bights of the hawsers with a single rope-yarn
up along the ship’s sides, so as not to interfere with the ways, or
interrupt the progress of the carpenters while knocking away the shores
previous to launching.
Have men stationed to attend to veering the hawsers and cables when the
ship is off the ways, and also to letting go the anchors, if necessary.
Have a few buckets of water ready to throw on the bitts, to prevent any
danger that might occur from fire while veering the hawsers and cables.
The ways being well greased, and the necessary preparations for
launching completed, all the blocks and wedges by which the ship was
formerly supported, are driven out from under her keel, until the whole
weight gradually subsides upon the sliding ways, or cradle; a few
shores, or stanchions, remain, by which she is retained on the stocks
until the period for launching arrives, which is generally at high
water; they are then cut away, and all obstructions removed, with the
exception of the _dogshore_ (a representation of which is given in the
Plate). The word is given “to _launch_”--the dogshore is then knocked
away, which causes her to advance down the inclined plane into the
water.
If the ship should _hang_ after the dogshore is removed, it will be
necessary to apply screws under the fore-foot, which will cause her to
move immediately along the ways. The ways generally extend a sufficient
depth under the surface of the water to float the vessel when she
arrives at the extreme ends.
When the ship is off the stocks “veer away roundly,” and do not attempt
to check her until she begins to _deaden her way_, then check her
“handsomely” with the hawsers so as not to part them; if, however, they
should part, let go an anchor immediately; if that should not bring her
up, let go the other anchor, and veer gradually on both _cables_ until
she is brought up.
_Note._--When a ship is to be launched it is always customary to
hoist the ensign, jack, and pennant; the jack forward, ensign aft,
and the pennant amidships. Flagstaffs are erected for that purpose
previous to launching, as represented in the Plate, where you see a
ship of war ready to be launched from the stocks.
=86.=--CUTTING OUT STANDING RIGGING.
_Lower Rigging._--Measure the distance from the larboard side of the
mast-head to the foremost dead-eye in the starboard channels, which
distance set off on the floor of the rigging loft and stick in a
marlinespike at each extremity. The shroud stuff being stretched,
stop one end to one of the marlinespikes; take the bight round the
other and back again: this is the first pair of shrouds; pass it round
again, _outside at each end_, for the second pair, and continue in
this manner until one gang of rigging is completed. Mark the length of
the eyes straight across at the _opposite end_, to the one stopped to
the marlinespike; cut at the latter in an angular direction (so that
the after-legs will be a little longer than the forward ones), and
the inside pair will be the first pair of shrouds. Hitch a piece of
spun-yarn round each shroud, in the centre of the eye, making knots
on it according to the number of the shroud, commencing the inside
pair with one knot. The mark for the length of the eye gives the place
for the eye-seizing; the round of the rope giving their place on the
mast-head. (_Old fashion._)
The proportion for the eye is the round of the mast-head above the
bolsters; I have also seen the breadth of the seizing added (some allow
five squares of the mast-head, which is the best rule), supposing it
would lay fairer on the side of the bolsters than too close to the
mast-head. This precaution is hardly necessary, as the rigging will
stretch sufficiently in pulling up to bring the seizing down, no matter
how much it may have been stretched before being warped round for
cutting.
[Illustration: Sketch of a draft for cutting rigging.]
Rigging cut on the above old plan, causes great waste in squaring off
the ends, after fitting the eyes, previous to turning-in the dead-eyes.
I would therefore recommend (if not in a great hurry) a more economical
plan. Get the shroud-warp on a stretch, or rather one end of it, long
enough for one pair of shrouds; mark off the distance for the required
service, and when completed--being wormed, parceled, and served, while
on a taut stretch--measure the length with a tape-line, from _draft_
of first pair of shrouds, No. 1 starboard; when measured and chalked
the required length, “come up the stretch,” and cut at the chalk-mark;
middle the shroud at the centre of the service, and lay it on the loft
floor. Continue fitting, and cutting, in this way until you get the
number of shrouds required for the gang, allowing each pair of shrouds
to lap over the diameter of the rope at the eye, as they are laid on
the loft floor; alternately making due allowance at the ends, before
cutting, for the carry aft, or the jump of a port, if required. (_See
Plate._)
_Note._--In measuring the length of the shrouds, some prefer the
distance from the opposite side of the mast-head to the partners,
added to half the breadth of the deck, from the mast to the side.
In parceling, begin at each end where the service is to leave off,
and parcel upwards to the middle of the eye, where commence serving
downwards on each leg. The eye seizings are round ones, and when put
on, the whole eye is neatly covered with parceling. A half-sister
block is sometimes put between the two forward shrouds, for the lower
boom topping lift to lead through.
=87.=--TOPMAST AND TOP-GALLANT RIGGING
Is cut in the same manner. In fitting the topmast rigging, always
seize-in a sister-block between the two forward shrouds, for the
topsail lift and reef tackles. The swifters are generally served the
whole length.
The eyes of the top-gallant rigging are made to fit exactly around the
cylinder; if there is an odd topmast, or top-gallant shroud, on each
side, they are either fitted with a horse-shoe eye, or go together with
a cut splice.
=88.=--BREAST AND STANDING BACKSTAYS.
These may be cut by the same rule; the eyes of the breast backstays are
fitted in different ways. They are sometimes spanned together, making
a square, the size of the mast-head; sometimes they have an eye like
the shrouds, made to fit close; and others have a small eye seized in
the bight, and lashed round the mast-head. The eyes of the standing
backstays are fitted like those of the shrouds.
=89.=--CAT HARPEN LEGS, AND FUTTOCK SHROUDS.
Take one-third the breadth of the top, and lay of that distance from
the eye-seizing, down upon the shrouds, each side; draw a line across
which will represent the cat harpens, and measured on the scale, will
give their length; splice in eyes at each end; worm, parcel, serve, and
leather them. The distance from the extremity of the top and this line
upon the shroud, will give the length of the futtock shrouds, which
must have a hook and thimble in their upper ends, and a thimble in
their lower ends.
=90.=--FORE-AND-AFT STAYS.
Measure from the after parts of the mast-head to where the stays set
up, and to this distance add the length of the mast-head, for collars.
Collars for stays are the length of their respective mast-heads. The
mousings are raised once-and-a-half the size of the stays, and at a
distance equal to twice the length of the mast-head from the mousing.
A Flemish eye is worked on the end, and the stay rove through it; or
they may be fitted with lashing eyes, in which case each leg is the
length of the mast-head; the service is continued the length of the
eye below the mousing, the collars leathered, and the hearts turned
in with the lay of the rope. Stays are wormed, parcelled, served, and
leathered in the wake of all nipps, such as the bees, bullock-blocks,
and sheave-holes.
=91.=--CUTTING LOWER MAST HEAD-PENDANTS.
The forward pair should be twice the length of the mast-head--the after
pair twice-and-a-half; thimbles are spliced in the ends, and they are
wormed or spanned together, so as to form a span to fit the mast-head.
=92.=--BOBSTAYS.
The bobstays are cut twice the length from the collars, on the
bowsprit, to their respective holes on the cutwater. They are wormed,
parceled, and served the whole length, and leathered in the nipp, after
which they are rove through the holes, spliced together, and the dead
eyes turned in, in the wake of a splice.
=93.=--BOWSPRIT SHROUDS.
The length from the bowsprit to the eye-bolts in the bows; a dead-eye
or heart is spliced into one end, and a hook and thimble in the other.
=94.=--JIB AND FLYING JIB GUYS.
Take the distance from the boom-end to the bows, making a small
allowance for reeving through the straps on the spritsail yard. They
are generally fitted with a cuckold’s neck over the boom end, and set
up with dead-eyes to the bows. The cuckold’s neck is served or covered
with canvass. The guys in the wake of the spritsail yard are leathered.
The martingales must be cut, and fitted to the manner in which they are
rove.
=95.=--CUTTING RUNNING RIGGING.
The greater part of the running rigging may be cut as it is rove,
making due allowance for the hands to clap on. The length and size may
also be got from the rigging table for all classes in the navy (see
rigging tables). The most proper way to ascertain the length of a rope
is from the _draft_, or rigging plan of the vessel you are employed
upon, making the proper allowance for leading out, &c., &c.
=96.=--RIGGING SHEERS, AND TAKING IN MASTS AND BOWSPRIT.
In cases where there is neither sheers nor wharf to have recourse to,
in order to get the lower masts on board, it becomes necessary to get
such spars as can be procured, and erect a pair of sheers on board for
that purpose.
In doing this proceed as follows:--Take in a sufficiency of ballast to
steady the ship, and shore the decks from the skin up, particularly
abreast of the partners. Sling skids up and down the sides; reeve the
parbuckles, and bring the sheer legs alongside, with their small ends
aft; parbuckle them on board, raise one leg over the capstan, and their
heads or after ends resting either on the taffrail, the break of the
poop, or a spar placed in the most convenient spot, the more elevated
the better. Square the heels exactly one with the other, so that when
they come to be raised the legs may be found of equal height.
As near the after ends of the spars as may be considered necessary,
when crossed, put on the head-lashing of new, well-stretched rope
(_figure-of-8 fashion_), similar to a racking seizing, and cross with
the ends. Open out the heels, carrying one over to each gangway, and
placing it on a solid piece of oak or shoe, previously prepared for
the purpose. Clap stout tackles on the heels, two on each, one leading
forward, the other aft; set taut the after ones, and belay them. Lash
a three or four-fold block, as the upper one of the main purchase,
over the main lashing (so that it will hang plumb under the cross),
with canvass underneath to prevent chafing; and in such a manner that
one-half the turns of the lashing may go over each horn of the sheers,
and divide the strain equally; also sufficiently long to secure the
free action of the block. Lash the small purchase block on the after
horn of the sheers, sufficiently high for the falls to play clear of
each other, and a girtline block above all.
Middle a couple of hawsers, and clove-hitch them over the sheer
heads--having two ends leading forward, and two abaft, led through viol
blocks, and stout luffs clapped on them. These should be sufficiently
strong to secure the sheers while lifting the masts.
The lower purchase block is lashed forward (perhaps round the
cut-water), and the fall being rove, the sheers are raised by heaving
upon it, and preventing the heels from slipping forward, by means of
the heel tackles previously mentioned.
Sometimes a small pair of sheers are erected for the purpose of raising
the heads of the large ones; in which case care must be taken to place
them so as to allow the heads or horns of the other pair to pass
through.
When the sheers are up, or nearly perpendicular, _cleat the shoes_, so
as to confine the heels to their places upon them. They can then be
transported along the deck by means of the heel-tackles and guys to the
situation required, taking care to make them rest upon a beam, and to
have the deck properly shored up below.
Finally, give the sheers the necessary rake by means of the guys, and
set taut all the guys and heel-tackles. Also, five or six feet above
the deck, on each leg, put two cleats, for the purpose of applying two
stout lashings from _them above_, to the dead-eyes in the channels
_below_, in order to give greater security; this being done, the sheers
may be considered ready. (_See Plate_).
[Illustration: Masting and Dismasting.
FIG. 1.
FIG. 2.
FIG. 3.
Method of forming Sheers, and removing a Mainmast, by means of 2
Topm’st]
_Note._--The skids which are slung up and down the sides, are for
the purpose of keeping the sheer-legs clear of the channels, and
from thence to the plank shear. Mats should also be placed over the
quarter galleys to prevent injury.
_Parbuckles_ are hawsers which are middled; the ends of which are
taken through two ports which are about five or six ports apart, from
outside, in; down over the rail, under the sheer legs; up again through
snatch blocks, in the opposite water-ways, and luffs clapped on them.
The counter parbuckles are used to ease the sheer legs down on deck,
and are rove through the gun-deck ports. Mats should be placed in the
wake of the chafe, where the parbuckle leads over the rail, or up
through the gun-deck ports.
The parbuckling on board of heavy spars for sheers may be much
facilitated at times, and injury to the ship avoided, by attending to
circumstances, and getting them in at slack water, or over the bows or
stern.
When a ship is confined to her own resources, the lower yards are the
best spars for sheers; the heels (or yard-arms resting on the deck)
being strengthened where they taper by a temporary fish, _woolded on_,
and the woolding set up by wedges.
In a brig, the main yard and main boom are the best spars for sheers
(if other spars are not available).
The shoes are made of either stout oak plank or beam timbers of pine,
and long enough to extend over at least three beams, with a saucer in
them for the heels to rest in; likewise, mortices or bolts in each end
for lashing. The spare caps will be found very handy for placing the
heels of the spars in, and the eye-bolts in them convenient for hooking
the heel-tackles, and transporting along the decks.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
=97.=--TO TAKE IN THE MIZEN-MAST.
Tow the mizen-mast alongside, with the head aft, and the garland[1]
lashed on to the forward part of the mast, at the distance from the
tennon to just above the spar deck partners; lash a pair of girtline
blocks on the mast-head, and reeve the girtlines; bend the sheer-head
girtline to the mast below the bibbs to _cant_ it. Overhaul the main
purchase down abaft, thrust the strap through the eyes of the garland,
toggle it, and secure the toggle by a back-lashing. Take the fall to
the capstan and “heave round;” when the heel rises near the rail, hook
on a heel-tackle to ease it inboard. Get the mast fair for lowering
by means of the girtlines, have carpenters attending below, wipe the
tennon dry, and white lead both it and the step, “lower away,” and step
the mast.
Pass a couple of straps around the mast; to each of these hook the
double blocks of the pendant tackles--the single ones to the sides,
and hauled taut; wedge the mast temporarily, “come up” the purchases,
man the guy and heel tackles, wet the decks, and transport the sheers
forward for taking in the main-mast.
The object of taking in the mizen-mast first is, because the breadth of
beam is less aft than forward; and the heels of the sheers being spread
more as they go forward, the head lashing consequently becomes tauter;
moreover, if the mizen-mast was taken in _last_, the bowsprit must be
got in _first_, and thus the _advantage_ of securing the sheers to the
foremast-head, when getting in the bowsprit, would be lost.
[1] Garlands are made of new rope, well stretched (salvagee fashion),
marled together and parceled. They are laid on the forward part of
the mast, a stout lashing put on over all, and crossed between the
garland and the mast;--a good dogging also, if necessary, passed
downward.
=98.=--TO TAKE IN THE MAIN AND FOREMAST.
Proceed in the same manner as in getting in the mizen mast. The garland
for the small purchase should be lashed about the diameter of the mast,
_above_ the main purchase.
In taking in either of the masts, if the sheers should be found to
be a few inches short, the difficulty may be remedied by manning the
forward guy-falls, and bringing the sheers perpendicular to the deck.
Some distance may also be saved by using no garlands and having the
purchase blocks lashed to the mast. If in lowering there should still
be a difficulty, chocks might be placed on the kelson until the tennon
rested on them; then steady the mast by means of the small purchase and
sheer-head girtlines, while the main purchase is unlashed, and lashed
again on the mast sufficiently high to step it.
If the ship has a top-gallant forecastle, it would be well to step the
mast forward of the sheer legs, for the brake of the forecastle comes
abreast of the partners; and, in a case of this kind, it would be well
to take in the foremast first.
=99.=--TO TAKE IN THE BOWSPRIT.
Transport the sheers as far forward as possible, or as the bows will
permit; send a hand to the sheer-head, bend on the girtlines to the
small purchase block to light it up, unlash it, and lash it again
to the forward fork or horns of the sheers, pass a strap round the
foremast-head, to which hook a large tackle, carry it well aft, and
haul it taut, for the purpose of staying the mast. Lash a couple
of large single blocks to the foremast-head, middle a hawser, and
clove-hitch it over the sheer-head; reeve the ends through the blocks
at the mast-head, down on deck, carry them well aft, and take a turn.
Hook the after heel-tackles forward, and take the after-guys aft;
pass a bulwark lashing round each heel, rake the sheers over the bows
sufficiently for the main purchase to hang directly over the gammoning
scuttle, and make all fast.
The bowsprit being brought under the bows, with the head forward, and
the garlands lashed on, the main one a little more than one-third from
the heel, the smaller one between the cap and bees, having guys leading
from the bowsprit to the cat-heads, and a couple of straps round the
heel for hooking the bedding tackles. Overhaul down the purchases
and toggle them; “sway away,” attending it by the guys, until nearly
perpendicular; hook on the bedding tackles, which are taken from the
bitts on the main deck, and led up through the partners; wipe the
tennon dry, and white-lead both it and the mortice; “lower away,”
bouse upon the bedding tackles, and bring it into its place; come up
purchases, guys, unlash garlands, and proceed to dismantle the sheers.
If the ship has a topgallant forecastle, you will be unable to take in
the bowsprit with the sheers without the assistance of a _derrick_[2]
on account of the brake of the forecastle, it not being prudent to step
sheers on the top of it.
When the ship is masted, and alongside the yard, commence getting
on board and stowing ballast and tanks; fit the rudder, gammon the
bowsprit, fit and set up the bobstays and bowsprit shrouds; fit fore
stay collars; get on board tops, caps, cross-trees, topmasts and
topgallant masts, placing lower yards athwart ships, topsail and
topgallant yards amidships; also, have ready tackles and luffs for
setting up the rigging and staying the masts, top-blocks with lashings
for top-ropes, and all the rigging at hand and in order.
[2] See Derrick, in Miscellaneous Articles.
=100.=--GAMMONING THE BOWSPRIT.
In rigging a stage under the bowsprit for this purpose, make use of two
small spars, such as topgallant studding-sail booms, with their heels
lashed to the head-rail, their heads frapped together, and slung from
the bowsprit end, and boards laid across from one to the other.
The gammoning is of new, well-stretched rope, generally water-laid.
One end of the gammoning being whipt, is passed through the hole in
the cutwater, and over the bowsprit with a round turn, then clenched
round the bowsprit close against the stop or cleats; the other end
passes through the forepart of the hole in the cutwater, again round
the bowsprit (but before the clinch), and again through the hole in the
cutwater, abaft the first turn. All the succeeding turns go in the same
way, laying forward on the bowsprit and aft in the cutwater, and all
are passed inside of the first turns; by which means the outer turns on
the bowsprit which bear the most strain are more preserved from chafing
than the inner ones.
[Illustration: A Representation of the Masting Shears in the New-York
Navy Yard, for the Masting and Dismasting of large ships.]
The turns are then hove taut as follows:--A leading block is made
fast to the holes for the bobstays by a strap long enough to admit of
the pendant, which is then rove through it, leading straight through
the hawse-hole to the capstan. In one end of this pendant an eye is
spliced, through which a bight of the gammoning is passed, and retained
by means of a toggle, while to the other end is hooked a long tackle,
and the fall led to the capstan. As each turn is hove taut, it is, by
some, nailed to the bowsprit, and by others, racked in several places,
which is preferable to nailing.[3]
When all the turns are passed and hove taut, they are frapped together
by as many crossturns as are passed on the bowsprit. The end is then
whipped and seized to one of the turns.
In ships with two gammonings, the outer one is hove taut first, as it
would otherwise slack the inner one.
_Note._--Iron gammoning is now allowed for vessels of all classes in
the service. (_See Rigging Table._)
[3] See Gammoning the Bowsprit, in Miscellaneous Articles.
=101.=--FITTING RIGGING.
The shroud is hove well taut, with a tackle clapped on one end, and the
other secured to a sampson post. It is wormed, parceled, and served a
third down from the seizing; the swifter or foremost shroud all the
way, except where the dead-eye is turned in. A sword mat is sometimes
laced on the foremost shroud, which, I think, answers much better, as
it can be taken off and the rope dried; and, from the different ropes
I have seen rotted under the service, I feel convinced, the less on
rigging, unless where absolutely necessary, the better.
In parceling the eyes, commence from each end of the service and finish
in the centre, and pass several riding parts, as in breaking the shroud
to form the eye, the service gets opened, which allows the wet to get
in; and if the service is begun in the centre, doubled, and then passed
toward each end, it will prevent the wet getting to the rope.
In forming the eye, take a good strand, knot both ends together, and
lay it across both parts of the shroud; having brought them as close
together as possible, pass both bights of the strand under the shroud
clear of each other; then place a long bolt across, close to the strand
on the upper side; take a round turn round the bolt with each bight of
the strand on each side of the shroud, put a smaller bolt through each
eye in the strand, and _heave it round_ the long bolt, and as the turns
accumulate on the bolt, both parts of the shroud come together; when
quite close pass the eye seizing, the shroud being previously parceled
in the way of it.
When there is an odd on each side, it is fitted horse-shoe fashion to
fit the mast-head; parceled, and served over a third down the same as
the other shrouds. I have seen the odd shroud put on the mast-head
first (after the pendants), instead of last; and then the others put on
in rotation: No. 1 starboard, No. 2 larboard, No. 3 starboard, &c., &c.
=102.=--FITTING MAST-HEAD PENDANTS.
The long leg, when two, should be a third of the shroud. The eye is
formed the same as the shroud: wormed, parceled, &c. A thimble is
spliced in each end, the ends put in once and a-half, marled down, and
served over. The foremost leg is once and a-half the round of the rope
shorter than the after one. The thimbles are well parceled before being
spliced in.
Small ships have only one pendant on each side; when this is the case,
the rope is cut to the proper length, the starboard pendant is spliced
into the larboard, and the larboard into the starboard, with a cut
splice forming an eye, or span, to fit the square of the mast-head; a
thimble is spliced into each end, and they are wormed, parceled and
served;--they are the same length as a long leg, when a pair on each
side.
=103.=--LOWER AND TOPMAST STAYS.
Stays are four stranded, and are now both the same size, and lashed
abaft the mast-heads. The legs are made for the collar in laying up.
When sufficient length is laid up for the stay, from whence the collar
commences to the end for setting up, two strands, one for each, are
left sufficiently long to double back, and are then laid up as four
strands, forming the lashing eyes and legs. The ends of the strands
are then unlaid, the inside ones wormed into the lay of the rope; the
other strands are divided, laid up, and worked in alongside the first
strands; then some more yarns are twisted smaller and used as backing;
some inside yarns from each strand should be wormed into the stay their
whole length, below the crotch; the legs are then wormed, so as to
completely fill the rope, commencing from the centre of the eyes for
lashing, which should be well opened with a large setting fid, and
worming carried into the stay as far down as the worming of the legs.
The outside yarns of the legs are then marled down, over all, round the
stay, tapering the ends. The legs are well parceled and served, and
likewise the stay, sufficiently far down to take the lower yards, and
covered with tanned hide.
The stays should be hove well out with purchases, and allowed to hang,
pulling up occasionally. I have known a line-of-battle ship’s stays
(cable laid rope) to stretch out twelve feet, and after a two month’s
cruise were long enough to allow nearly two feet to be taken off the
fore-stays.
Stays fitted with lashing eyes are decidedly preferable, as they are
easier shifted; the collars not being so long the yards can be slung
higher up, and consequently braced further forward.
In the merchant service the stays are also fitted on the bight, or two
in one, as follows: the bight is put over the mast-head and both ends
taken forward and set up in their respective places. Others again put
the bight under the bowsprit and set them up abaft the mast head, with
lashing eyes, putting on a seizing at the proper place to form the
collar. This last plan would not answer for a ship of war.
=104.=--TO RIG THE FOREMAST.
White-lead the mast-head in the wake of the trestle-trees, over haul
down the girtlines, bend on the trestle-trees and sway them on board;
take out the after chock, wipe them dry, bend the girtlines to the
forward part and stop the girtlines to the after part; bend the main
girtline to the after part also; “sway away,” having a steadying-line
forward to keep the trestle-trees from catching under the bibbs, for if
they should be heavy, one man aloft will not be able to bear them off;
when above the bibbs, send a hand aloft to slip the stops, one at a
time, so as to let them come down gradually. “Lower away,” bouse on the
after girtlines, and get the trestle-trees in their places; send aloft
the after chock, ship and bolt it. Tar the mast-head in the way of the
rigging; overhaul down the girtlines for the bolsters, which are tarred
and parceled; sway them aloft and stop them; lash the girtline blocks
to the after part of trestle-trees.
The rigging is then sent up by the girtlines in the following manner:--
_Mast head pendants._--Foremost pair of shrouds, starboard side;
foremost pair of shrouds, larboard side; second pair of shrouds,
starboard side; second pair of shrouds, larboard side, and so on
until all the shrouds are over, after which send up the stay, and
last of all the preventer or spring-stay.
_Placing the rigging._--The girtlines being overhauled down send
aloft the lower pendants, which have got a long and short leg, fitted
together with a span, or square, the size of the mast-head; the long
leg is placed abaft, so that in case of the forestay being shot away,
the pendant tackles can be hooked in them without being in the way
of the fore-yard in bracing; while the leg being abaft, the mast
affords them good security. As soon as the mast-head pendants are
placed they ought to be lashed abaft, the tackles hooked, and the
mast stayed by them. Overhaul down the girtlines, bend the mast-head
one on the shroud, with a timber-hitch, or toggle, four or five feet
below the seizing, and stop it to the centre of the eye; take the
girtline from the after trestle-tree, and bend it half way down the
shroud; “sway away,” on the lower girtline, and lift the weight of
the shroud. When high enough, the stop in the eye is cut, and it will
fall over the mast-head; the men on the trestle-trees placing it fair
on the bolsters, beating it well down, with commanders, and observing
to have the eye-seizing come as near the centre of the mast-head as
possible. The larboard pair is got up in the same manner, and so on
until all are placed. Reeve the lanyards, if prepared with a knot on
the end; a double-wall and crowned is preferable, a mathew-walker
being liable to capsize; the lanyard should be rove through the hole
under the end of the shroud, because in setting it up, the strain
comes on the shroud first, and keeps the dead-eye in its place; if
put under the standing part, the strain coming on the end first, the
dead-eye would _slue round_.
_Setting up the lower rigging._--The rigging is often placed and then
set up, but I would prefer (if time would permit) having it pulled up
as placed. When the first pair on each side are over and placed, and
the lanyards rove through both dead-eyes, clap a selvagee strap on
each shroud well up; to this hook the single block of a luff tackle;
the double, to a blackwall hitch in the lanyard; then take the lower
blocks of the pendant tackles and hook them to both the falls of
the luffs on each side; reeve the tackle falls through the leading
blocks, and pull up, setting up both pair of shrouds at the same
time, the men on the trestle-trees beating the shroud down as pulled
up; when well up, place two pair more, and proceed in this manner
until the mast is rigged.[4]
The advantage of pulling up a pair at each side, instead of singly,
is evident from the fact that pulling up singly injures the seizing;
as it is first dragged _forward_ and then _aft_ by the after leg, it
is liable to slack the seizing, and perhaps snap the inside turns.
In rigging the lower masts, I have seen the after swifter go over
first; a plan that is now adopted in small vessels. In staying the
mast these swifters should be set taut, the mast being previously
wedged, and the stays set steadily up. I have heard some old sailors
dispute this plan, it being new, but for my own part I think well of
it.
_Note._--The trestle-trees might be got over without knocking out the
after-chocks, by running up a derrick abaft the mast, well lashed
abaft below the bibbs, having chocks placed between it and the mast,
sufficient to admit of the free passage of the after chock of the
trestle-trees. They are sometimes got on before getting in the mast,
but they then bring in an additional and unnecessary weight upon the
mast-head, and moreover, in lowering, catch over the shear-head.
N. B. The blocks for _topmast stays_ should be put on _after_ the
second pair of shrouds (on foremast).
[4] See note on lower rigging.
[Illustration]
=105.=--FUTTOCK SHROUDS
Are now fitted, and hooked to the futtock plates in the top, and set up
to an iron band round the mast. In small vessels these are iron, and
set up with turnbuckles, or screws. Cat-harpens are seldom used, being
considered unnecessary lumber aloft.
_Note._--The futtock shrouds are hooked to their respective plates,
_with the points of the hooks in_.
=106.=--TO RIG THE MAIN AND MIZEN-MAST.
Proceed in the same manner as directed for the foremast. The mainmast
of a frigate has one more pair of shrouds than the foremast, and the
mizen-mast three less. The mizen-mast has only one pendant on each
side, fitted with a cut-splice, and a thimble spliced in each end. The
rigging is placed the same as the fore or main; the mast is steadied
into its place with a couple of long burtons, one to each pendant, and
hooked to straps round the bitts, or to ring-bolts in the fore part of
the quarterdeck bulwarks. If the stays are not ready for going up, the
tackles can be hooked to a lashing round the mast, the pendants being
wanted to pull up the rigging (for placing); the rigging is the same as
the fore.
In setting up the main-stays, pass one _under_, the other _over_,
around the cross-piece in the four bitts, for the purpose; clap the
selvagee straps well up the stay, and two more near the ends; to these
hook two luffs; to the falls of the luffs hook the lower blocks of main
tackles; reeve their falls through leading blocks, in as direct a line
with the stay as possible, and grease the bitts in the way of the stay.
In placing the main stays, in the manner mentioned above, there is
sufficient space between the stays for a shot to pass through, which
often prevents their being both cut away at the same time.
When the rigging is to be set up for a full due, the stays in the way
of the bitts are well wormed, parceled, served, and covered with hide;
and the ends of the stays, and all the lower rigging whipped, and
covered with canvass caps (neatly fitted).
=107.=--TO RIG THE BOWSPRIT.
[Illustration]
_Bobstays._--The rope should be well stretched, wormed, parceled,
and served, and in the way of the cutwater covered with leather;
when none is to be had, pass two parts of parceling, the first
against, the second with the lay of the rope; and serve with good
stout spun-yarn, or four-yarn plait; then reeve them through the
cutwater, splice both ends together, put the strands in once each
way, marl down, and serve over. The hearts are then secured in their
place (keeping the splice on the upper side) with a round seizing,
with parceling under it. They are sometimes fitted to shackle to the
cutwater, with iron plates let in flush with the wood, a bolt going
through both plates, which is very snug and strong.
_Bowsprit Shrouds_ are single pieces of rope. When cut the required
length (a hook and thimble), the latter parceled, is spliced into one
end, put in once-and-a-half, marled down and served over; a heart is
spliced into the other. After being hooked to eye-bolts in the bows
for the purpose, they are set up to their collars on the bowsprit.
A celebrated master (now a commander) in the navy, and a first
rate seaman, never served the bowsprit rigging _all over_; it is,
certainly, in my opinion, better not to do so, as the water can never
lodge, which it may do, by getting in from broken service, which
cannot be repaired at sea. They are now fitted one-third chain, on
account of the chain cable chafing against them.
It is not unusual, in small vessels, to insert thimbles instead of
hearts in the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds, and collars; covering the
lanyards neatly afterwards, with canvass.
_Placing the rigging._--Tar well the bowsprit; then put on the first
forestay collar, first pair bowsprit shroud collars, first bobstay
collar; second bobstay collar; second pair of shroud collars;
spring-stay collar; and cap bobstay collar; then heave them close up,
pass and heave well _on_ with a rose-lashing.
The man-ropes are spliced, or hooked into bolts in the bowsprit cap,
and in the other end an eye is spliced; ends put in once-and-a-half,
and set up with a lanyard to an eye-bolt in knight-heads or
stanchions, for the purpose; splices served over, and leathered in
the nip.
The goblines[5] are either clove-hitched, or may be fitted with a
cuckold’s neck around the end of the dolphin-striker, and set up to
the bows, one on each side.
[5] Called back-ropes by some.
=108.=--GETTING THE TOPS OVER.
_Whole tops._--Overhaul the girtlines for the cross-trees, white-lead
the squares in the trestle-trees, and ship them. The girtlines being
on each side of the mast-head are then overhauled down for the tops;
one end is passed from underneath, and up through the hole for futtock
plate and hitched to the standing part; the girtline can be rove down
through one of the holes in the edge of lubber’s hole; the girtline
stopped to the foremost edge, to holes bored for the purpose. A
girtline is taken from the mizen-mast-head, and bent to the foremost
part of maintop; bend on a tripping line to the pigeon hole leading
from the foremast-head. Man the girtlines and “sway away;” when
sufficiently high to allow the foremost edge of lubber’s hole to clear
the mast-head, cut the stops and cant it over by the tripping line, and
the top will hang in the girtlines, when it can be lowered, placed, and
bolted.
I have seen girtlines bent from the foremost part of the fore-top to
the bowsprit end; and from foremast to the forward part of the maintop;
and from mainmast to foremost part of mizen-top, to assist in getting
the tops over; but if they are properly slung it is not necessary.
The dead-eyes for the topmast rigging can now be hauled up, and put
in their places in the top-rims: and also ship the top-rail, and
stanchions in their respective places.
=109.=--GETTING HALF-TOPS OVER.
Unlash the girtline blocks from each side of the mast-head, and lash
them on the foremost and after sides; send the end of the foremost
girtline down abaft all, the other between the cross-trees.
If the starboard half is to be got over, place it on the deck with
its upper side up, or on its edge with the upper side aft. Take the
foremost girtline, reeve it down through the foremost hole, by lubber’s
hole for the purpose, (or from aft forward, if on its edge,) take it
underneath the top, and if the hole for the futtock plate will take it,
reeve it up, (or from forward, aft, if on its edge,) and half-hitch it
to the mast-head, or standing part; then take the mast-head part under
the top, (if on its edge, to the foremost side,) and seize it well to
the foremost corner with a piece of small rope, through a hole bored
for the purpose. Take the after girtline, reeve it the same way through
the after hole bored for the purpose in the after part of lubber’s
hole; pass, and half-hitch it the same way as the fore one, and secure
it with a good seizing of small rope, through another hole bored in the
foremost corner. If the futtock holes will not take the girtlines, stop
them with spun-yarn. The top should be so balanced in the girtlines,
as to hang fair when the stops are cut. Reeve the other ends of the
girtlines through the leading blocks; man them, and sway up the top
with the after girtline; at the same time taking in the slack of the
fore one. Have men stationed at the trestle-trees to bear off, cut the
stops, and place. When the edge is clear of the cross-trees, cut the
after stop and sway on both girtlines; and when the foremost corner is
well up, cut the stops; the top will then hang in the girtlines, and
can be easily placed. Shift the girtlines for the larboard half, get
it up the same way, bolt and secure the top. Shift the girtlines on
each side of the mast head, as they were before. A girtline from the
mizenmast-head is sometimes bent to the foremost edge of the main-top,
to assist in bearing off; (it can be dispensed with;) a rope’s end bent
to the top and hauled well aft, will answer the same purpose. Half-tops
may be swayed up, before the cross trees are sent aloft, and hung to
the mast-head, one half on each side, swayed chock up; then send up the
cross-trees, and bolt them to the trestle-trees; lower the half tops
down on the cross-trees; place and secure them as before.
_Note._--In cold weather it would be best to get the tops over before
rigging the masts, in order to give the men a more secure place for
standing while placing the rigging; and in this case a derrick rigged
on the top would be the best way to get the rigging over in a heavy
ship. (If the topmast is pointed and swayed about six feet above the
lower mast-head, it will make a good derrick for getting the lower
rigging over.)
=110.=--GETTING UP TOP-BLOCKS, &c.
Top-blocks are large single blocks, having iron straps, which are
formed after being put round the block, into a large hook. Overhaul
down the girtlines through lubber’s hole; bend one part through the
sheave hole of the block, and stop it to the back part of the hook;
hoist it up, and lash it to the mast-head around the hook, with a
lashing long enough to allow the block to hang half-mast-head high.
Through this block reeve a hawser; send the foremost end down through
the square hole in the foremost part of the trestle-trees; the after
end through the lubber’s hole through a leading block on deck, and
round the capstan.
=111.=--GETTING UP THE TOPMAST.
Take two half-hitches through the fid-hole, with the foremost end of
the hawser, and stop the hawser well round the hounds of the topmast
with a good lashing. Man the capstan, and heave the mast up and down.
Unbend the hawser, reeve it through the sheave-hole in the topmast;
send a hauling line down through the trestle-trees for the end of the
hawser, which haul up and clinch round the lower mast-head over the
block. Overhaul the girtlines down before all, and get the cap into the
top.
_Note._--Pendant tackles may be used to a greater advantage than a
hawser in pointing a topmast, when light handed.
=112.=--GETTING THE CAP INTO THE TOP.
Bend the foremost end of the girtlines, which were sent down before
all, through the round hole in the cap, and stop them along to the
after part of the square hole, keeping the bolts in the cap _up_.[6]
Man the girtlines and “sway away,” bearing well off the fore part of
the top. When high enough, lower, and place the round hole over the
square hole in the trestle-trees. Sway the topmast well through and
lash it securely to the cap; put a capstan bar in the fid-hole with
a hauling line on the end, and heave the topmast up; when the cap is
clear of the lower mast-head, haul on the line from the bar in the heel
of the topmast, and it will slue the mast and bring the square hole
of the cap over the lower masthead; ship the cap-shore, then lower
the hawser, or tackle, and place the cap, beating it into its place.
Land the mast, unreeve the hawser, unlash the top blocks, and hook
them to their proper bolts on each side of the cap; reeve the hawser
through one block, through the trestle-trees, through the sheave in the
top-mast, up through trestle-trees again, and reeve the end through
the foremost bolt in the cap on the opposite side of the block; before
reeving it through, parcel it well; take two half-hitches on its own,
or standing part, and secure the end with a round seizing of spun-yarn.
Bring the hawser to the capstan, heave the topmast up and try the fit;
(then lower away, get the topmast on deck, and try the other set);
and then lower the mast for rigging. Secure the girtline blocks to
eye-bolts in the cap, or to the topmast cross-trees.
_Note._--The stop should be taken off the hounds of the topmast,
directly it is pointed through the trestle-trees; and when getting on
deck, after it is landed, single the hawser the same as when getting
up and down, and stop it to the hounds; then have slip ropes on the
heel to haul it forward or aft, whether fore or main, and place it
on the chocks, for stowing on the booms. A fore-topmast is generally
stowed with the head forward; a main with the head aft; both heads
are sometimes stowed forward, a practice that is frequently adopted
at the present day.
[6] The object of _keeping the bolts up_ in getting the cap into the
top, is, that they may not catch on the top rim and cause delay, and
perhaps injury. (_It is not intended to be shipped so._)
=113.=--TURNING IN DEAD-EYES.
If in the loft, get the length from the mast-head to the deck, from
the draft, if the masts are not stepped, and place the dead-eye to
that length, making due allowance for stretching in setting up. Turn
the dead-eye in as near the end as possible, so that all parts of the
shroud may be equally stretched, which will prevent its having _a gouty
end_.
The principal caution is to keep the lay in the rope, as it prevents
the wet getting in. If the shroud is to be wormed, and served in the
wake of the dead-eye, the worming should not be hove in too taut, as
breaking the shroud round the dead-eye would probably snap it.
The score being well tarred, the end of the shroud is taken underneath,
round the dead-eye, inside standing, or mast-head part; a bolt is put
in a hole of the dead-eye. Take a good strand, knot both ends together;
it is then middled and crossed round the end of the shroud; both bights
are taken round the bolt, one on each side of the dead-eye, and a
smaller bolt put in each bight, which are hove round the large bolt in
the dead-eye. As the turns accumulate, it heaves the shroud taut round.
The dead-eye should be secured through one of the holes with spun yarn
to the shroud before heaving, where the shroud is marked, for the lower
part. When the dead-eye is turned in, in a loft, the shroud is hove in
with a jigger, (or dead-eye machine).
When the shroud is hove well round, pass a good throat-seizing. When
secured, take out the bolts, get a small jigger, hook one end to a
strap round the end of the shroud, and the other to the mast-head part;
take a good strand, knot both ends together, take it round the end and
standing or masthead part; put a bolt in both bights, and heave it
round, pulling up the jigger at the same time; this will bring the end
taut up, as heaving on the strap brings both parts close together; then
pass a round, or quarter seizing, and a smaller one on the end.
If the rigging is turned in on shore, keep the lay in the rope, and
when sent out of the loft, to be placed on the mast-head, keep the ends
inside, the shrouds being marked with a knot or a piece of spun-yarn,
according to the number. The ends will lay aft on one side, and forward
on the other; this is of importance and should be remembered.
_Turning in dead-eyes_, termed _Cutter stay-fashion_.--The dead-eye
being placed to the mark, the end is passed round it as before, but
instead of being secured with a throat-seizing, the end is passed
round the standing-part and seized to the part round the dead-eye
with a round-seizing, and another on the end further round the
dead-eye. The same precaution as in the other way, keep the lay in
the rope and _end_ inside.
_Note._--Worming and serving _shrouds_ in the wake of the dead-eyes
is not a common practice in all ships, but I would recommend it as
a great preservative to the shrouds, if they were served at least
six feet above the dead-eyes. I have known of many gangs of rigging
condemned on account of the shrouds being _magged_ and _chafed_ in
the wake of the dead-eyes and throat-seizing, for want of service,
when all other parts of the shrouds were found to be good.
=114.=--GETTING TOPMAST CROSSTREES OVER.
Overhaul a girtline through the round hole in the cap; and if they
are to go up from the starboard side, overhaul and send it down, and
the after girtline outside the top; hitch that through the round hole
in the cap, well out on the starboard foremost horns underneath, and
secure the end with a good seizing of spun-yarn; the after one bend on
in the same way, to the after starboard horn; then stop both girtlines
well with spun-yarn, close to the trestle-trees, and also with two
stops, on the larboard horns; “sway away;” having a guy from the deck
to clear it of the top, as it goes aloft. When the upper, or larboard
horns are well clear of the cap, take two rope’s ends from the larboard
side of the top, and bend them to the larboard horns, and man them in
the top--these are called “steadying lines,” and are used to prevent
the crosstrees _falling back_, if a stop is cut too soon, and to assist
in getting the crosstrees on the cap, and over the mast-head. “Sway
higher,” cutting the stops, and hauling on the steadying lines. When
the trestle-trees are as high up as possible on the cap, haul on the
steadying lines, and cut the stops close to the trestle-trees on the
starboard side, and the crosstrees will fall across the cap; then
place the after hole between the trestle-trees, over the round hole in
the cap--cast off the girtlines and steadying lines--white-lead the
mast-head in the wake of the crosstrees, and sway the topmast through;
beat the crosstrees well down on the mast-head; and when placed, sway
the topmast a few feet higher for rigging. Pass a lashing through the
fid-hole, and round the lower mast, to steady it.
The topmasts are sometimes fidded before rigging, to avoid the greater
strain upon the top tackles. If a topmast has only one sheave (like a
mizen topmast), it is a good precaution to reeve a hawser through the
fid-hole, and haul it taut, as the mast goes aloft; unreeving it only
when the mast is high enough for fidding, or previous to the squares
entering the trestle-trees.
[Illustration]
=115.=--PLACING TOPMAST RIGGING.
Tar the masthead in the wake of the rigging; send the bolsters aloft,
and stop them. After the bolsters are on, put over first the mast-head
pendants--then the span for ginn blocks; then follows the straps, with
thimble in for standing part of the tyes--next, first pair of shrouds
on the starboard side, then the larboard; and so on, until all are
over; then lash the breast backstay (if single); if a pair, put them
over the same as a shroud; next the after backstays; lash the stays,
if fitted for it, if not, put them over the same as lower stays, with
_mousings_. The collars of the stays go between the cross-trees, and
lash over the after one. Some prefer chain spans. The most approved
method is an iron plate, with a hook on each end, which lays across the
trestle-trees.
=116.=--TO SEIZE-IN THE SISTER-BLOCKS.
There is a score on each side to take the shroud, and three scores
for seizing--one on each end, and one between both sheaves. They are
seized-in the length of the hanging block, from the eye-seizing, to
prevent any risk of the reef-tackle and lift being jammed between
the hanging blocks and the rigging--one seizing is passed round the
shrouds, above the block, another below the block; and a small seizing
put on each score, round the block and shrouds. The topsail-lift leads
through the lower sheave, and reef tackle through the upper one.
The larboard block should be seized-in once the diameter of the shroud
lower than the other, as, if both are seized alike (the starboard
shroud going over first) they would not be square when the rigging is
placed.
=117.=--BACKSTAYS, (BREAST,)
When in pairs, are fitted with eyes, the same as the shrouds, and
served sufficiently far down to be square with the service of the
topmast shrouds. They are also parceled and served in the way of the
lower yards, when braced up. When there is only one backstay it is
secured round the mast-head with a lashing passed round it, through an
eye spliced in;[7] they are set up to a treble block in the channels.
Through these blocks a fall is rove, the standing part being spliced
into the strap of the double block, and then led from the treble block
through a fair leader in the side, in on deck.
_Note._--I have seen ships without breast backstays on any mast,
and they carried sail equally well with those who had them; one
was the _Independence razee_: her breast backstays were converted
into standing ones, and set up a little further aft, or immediately
forward of the proper standing backstays.
Breast backstays are generally pulled up in stays when the ship is
head to wind, having a quarter-watch of topmen stationed by them. If
they should be set up too taut, which may be the case, especially
when the rigging is slack, they are likely to snap and endanger the
mast by the sudden jerk; if not set up enough, they can be of no use,
and are only an additional weight on the mast-heads, and a useless
expenditure of rope. Their being set up to bear an equal strain with
the rigging, will not occur with the greatest care once in a year,
and I consider them particularly injurious on top-gallant-masts. A
good stout _standing backstay_ is the main support.
[7] Some are fitted with a cut splice.
=118.=--STANDING AFTER-BACKSTAYS,
When in pairs, are fitted with an eye the same as topmost rigging. When
an odd one on each side, they are fitted with a horse shoe. They are
now fitted the same size as lower rigging.
The backstays are set up with a lanyard rove through dead-eyes, the
same as shrouds, having service in the wake of the lower yards and tops.
=119.=--MAIN TOPMAST STAY
Is fitted of the same size as the standing backstay. A large clump
block is strapped round the foremast head, over the eyes of the
rigging, and immediately over the square hole in the after part of the
trestle-trees. Through this block the main topmast stay is rove down,
through the trestle-trees--has a thimble turned in the end, lanyard
spliced and rove through it, and set up to a span shackle in the deck,
abaft the foremast, for the purpose; or a large bull’s-eye hooked to an
eye-bolt, and set up on the end.
The spring stay leads through a block strapped round the foremast above
the cat-harpens, and sets up in the fore-top.
[Illustration]
=120.=--MIZEN TOPMAST STAY
Is rove through a thimble strapped round the mainmast-head, over the
eyes of the rigging; and when set up, is secured to its own part with
round seizings. If preferred, it can be set up with a thimble turned
into the end, and a lanyard rove through it; but this is not necessary.
When the stays are well stretched, the thimbles can be spliced in, but
it is not a good plan; for, should it be necessary to unreeve, the
splice must be drawn, which will injure the rope. I have seen them
fitted in this way, and pointed over for neatness,--but prefer their
being turned in, and the end pointed or capped.
_Note._--There is no mizen topmast spring-stay.
=121.=--GETTING THE TOPMAST CAPS ON.
The girtline blocks should be lashed well up to the topmast head.
Overhaul down before all the foremost ends, and secure them to the
foremost bolts in the cap; stop them to the centre ones, and also to
the square hole in the after part; sway the cap up;--when well up, cut
the after stops, sway higher, and the cap can be easily placed by the
man aloft, and girtlines cast off.
If the cap should be very heavy, use a derrick; a capstan bar will
answer the purpose.
_Note._--Ship the capshore the same time you place the cap.
=122.=--MAST-HEAD MAN ROPES, &c., &c.
A piece of rope has an eye spliced in one end, and several overhanded
knots made on the bight, at equal distances from each other. They
should be long enough to reach a third down the topmast rigging, and
seized round the mast-head close to the cap; one on each side is
sufficient. They are absolutely necessary in large ships, and should be
on all.
I have seen them in some very neat ships; and, when it is recollected
the small space the men have for their feet when they get near the
crosstrees, and the long mast-head, to get on the cap, it is certainly
worth while to sacrifice something in the way of appearance to ensure
the safety of a man’s life.
Some large ships have ladders with two steps, set up to the eyes of
the topmast rigging, from the cap; also, spans and grab-ropes fitted,
to go from the swifters abreast of the cap, which will be found very
convenient for the topmen, when exercising sails. These may appear
trifling matters to some, but ships fitted with them are generally
ahead, when exercising in a squadron.
=123.=--TOP TACKLE PENDANTS, &c.
When cut to the required length, a thimble, _well parceled_, is spliced
into one end, and the other pointed, with a becket in it. There are two
to the fore, and two to the main topmasts. In the heel of each topmast
there is a dumb sheave;--take one pendant and reeve it through the top
block, hooked to the cap, through the trestle-trees, through the dumb
sheave, or _heel-block_, through an eye-bolt in the foremost part of
the cap, on the opposite side to the block; take two half-hitches, and
secure the end to its own part, with a spun-yarn seizing; hook the top
tackle block to the thimble in the pendant, and the lower one, to a
bolt in the deck for the purpose; reeve the fall through a leader, and
bring it to the capstan; heave well taut, and unreeve the hawser by
which the mast was formerly hove up for rigging.
The other pendant reeves through the other top-block, through the
sheave hole in the topmast, and clenched to the other eye-bolt in the
fore corner of the cap; hook the blocks, reeve and bring the fall
to the capstan, taking the other off, and manning it well. When no
capstan, both falls must be well-manned by hand.
_Top Tackle Falls and Blocks._--The upper block is double, strapped,
which is made into a hook; the lower is also double, and should be
iron-strapped, having a swivel; a single one is hooked near the
double as a leading block; the fall is rove; the standing part
hitched, or clenched, over the block; they are sometimes spliced in,
and some have beckets.
To hook the double block, clap a single tail-block well up on the
pendant, reeve a whip through it, hitch one end of the whip through
one of the sheaves of the double block, hoist it up, and hook it to
the pendant.
=124.=--PREPARING TO FID THE TOPMASTS.
Capshores should be stepped and secured, luff tackles clapped on all
the stays and backstays. Lower blocks should not be hooked on to the
lanyards, but to bolts in the deck, and eye-bolts or straps in the
chains; capstans and falls manned, topmast rigging quite clear, and
hove over the sides of the tops, and the topmasts hove up and fidded,
_mast stayed_, _rigging set up_, _&c._
=125.=--RATTLING THE LOWER AND TOPMAST RIGGING.
Cat-harpen legs and futtock shrouds are seized-on and set up; topmast
stayed, rigging and backstays set up, lanyards secured as lower
rigging,--then commence rattling down.
Girt the rigging with three fore and aft swifters--one by the shear
rail, and the others at equal distances, as follows:--Make one end of a
small rope fast round the foremost shroud, take a turn round the next,
then the third, and so on, until all are taken in; then back the same
way, and half-hitch it round the first. The swifter should be just
taut, and not so as to bring the shrouds together,--the object being
to make the ratlines a little tauter when let go. Sometimes swifters
are not used, but the ratlines are never so square, or look well. Care
should be taken that they are not too taut, for, when let go, all the
strain will come on the seizing in the eyes of the ratlines, and they
will be constantly snapping. Two swifters on each side are sufficient
for the topmast rigging.
_Spar the rigging down_, with spare spars, such as studding-sail
yards, boat’s oars, boat’s masts, handspikes, or anything _light_ that
will answer, and seize them to the shrouds on the outside, at equal
distances, leaving sufficient space for three or four ratlines between
each spar.
A coil of small well-stretched rope is placed on each side of the deck,
two or three on a side when required to be done quick. Splice an eye in
one end of the rattling stuff, seize it to the first shroud, and then
commence clove-hitching on the second, and so on to the after, but one;
then measure the distance from that to the last, cut it off, and splice
an eye in the end. Beat the _hitches_ well round each shroud, seize the
end to the foremost one, and also the other eye to the after one, and
rattle up, taking the shear of the rails. The hitches are formed on the
outside, and at equal distances; in three or four places take a ratline
to the after swifter;--these are called _shear ratlines_.
When it is necessary to rattle quick, take three ends up at a time.
Fifteen inches is a good distance between the ratlines, and their
places should be chalked off all the way up and down before commencing.
Each man employed should have a measure within his reach, and care
should be taken to make the ratlines on one side correspond in a
parallel direction with those of the other. This can only be seen from
the outside of the ship. Make the hitches neat, and the eyes small; few
things tend more to a snug appearance.
If the rigging is to be blacked, after rattling down, it is best to
leave the spars on until that is done, taking them off as you black
down.
=126.=--FUTTOCK-STAVES IN TOPMAST RIGGING
Are iron bolts parceled and served; are seized to the shrouds the
length of the _hounds_, down on the inside; seizings passed as in lower
rigging.
_Cat-harpen legs on topmast rigging._--Take the length from the
starboard foremost shroud round the mast, and to the after one on
the same side; get a piece of rope this length, splice an eye in
each end, worm, parcel, and serve it. There are two on each mast.
Seize the foremost end to the foremost shroud and futtock stave, take
it round the mast and seize it to the after one; secure one to the
larboard side in the same manner.
I have seen them go from the foremost starboard shroud, straight to
the after larboard one, crossing abaft the mast. They are also fitted
to set up with thimbles and a lanyard, abaft the mast. When this is
done, both eyes are seized to the futtock staves on the starboard
side, a thimble seized in the bight, and set up abaft the mast to
the larboard one, with a lanyard fitted in the same way. (Vessels
with chain topsail ties are fitted with iron _bands_, to go round the
mast, with eyes for the topgallant rigging to lead through.)
=127.=--TO RIG THE JIB-BOOM.
Hoist the jib-boom on board by the hawser or tackle, which was left at
the foremast head when getting on board the fore topmast, run the end
out on the bowsprit, pointing it through the stays and bowsprit cap.
Reeve the heel-rope, and sway the jib-boom out a foot or two beyond the
cap. Reeve the jib-stay through the hanks, _traveller if required_, and
then through the inner sheave-hole, in the boom end, martingale and
necklace, and turn a double block in the inner end; reeve the lanyard
or fall through this, and a single block bolted to the bows. To the
traveler seize the jib downhaul blocks and traveling guys; tar the boom
end, put a grommet over, to which seize the fore topgallant bowline
blocks, one on each side.
_Foot ropes._--There is one on each side of the jib-boom. They should
be long enough when in their place to allow a man to stand navel-high
along the boom, and are fitted as follows: take a piece of rope long
enough to make both; cut it in the centre and splice one end into the
other with a cut splice, forming an eye to fit the jib-boom end. Four
or five overhand knots are taken at equal distances on the rope, from
the eye, according to the length of the foot-rope; the knots are for
the purpose of preventing the men from slipping. In each end splice a
small eye, large enough to take a lashing, by which they are set up
to bolts in the bowsprit cap. An eye is sometimes made by taking a
round turn round the boom end, and two seizings passed. Also with a
span, horse-shoe fashion, and neatly covered with canvass.
_Note._--Turk’s-heads worked through the strands, may be substituted
for knots on the foot-ropes, if time will permit.
=128.=--JIB-BOOM MARTINGALE STAY
Is a short rope, with an eye in each end to fit the jib-boom, and end
of the dolphin-striker. The eyes are well served, and covered with
canvass or leather. The martingale is wormed, and a small twine seizing
(snaked) put on round the worming at equal distances between the eyes;
three, or four, according to the length, which must depend on the way
the dolphin-striker is intended to stand, or rake. It looks best when
perpendicular to cap or jackstaff.
Chain is sometimes used for the purpose, as also for back-ropes; and is
found to answer well, it not being liable to stretch.
=129.=--JIB-BOOM GUYS.
There is one pair on each side; an eye is made to fit the boom end
by passing a round seizing, when in their place; both ends are rove
through thimbles on each yard-arm of spritsail yard (when crossed).
Then brought in and both ends set up to bull’s eyes in the bow, or
fitted with tackles.
_Placing the rigging on the jib-boom._--First, the foot-ropes; next,
the martingale stay, and guys. In some ships, an iron grummet is
fitted with an eye on top and one underneath, neatly leathered, and
put over the boom-end first. The martingale stay is hooked to the
underneath eye, the jib-tack and downhaul to the upper one.
=130.=--MARTINGALE BACK-ROPES
Are pendants, middled and served in the centre, the round of the
dolphin striker, both parts crossed and secured with a throat seizing.
The service should be long enough to take in the seizing. In the ends
splice a single or double block; another single one is strapped into a
bolt in the bow for the purpose, or fitted in a strap with a hook and
thimble (hook moused). A gun tackle, or luff-purchase, is then rove,
the standing part of the fall spliced round the pendant, in after end
of the block, rove through the one in the bow, over the head rails,
back through the one in the pendant, and through a fair leading sheave,
in the forecastle bulwark. These falls, after being pulled up, are
racked together outside the bulwark. If belayed on the forecastle, they
should be seized to their next part, so as not to be let go by mistake.
=131.=--PLACING THE RIGGING ON A DOLPHIN-STRIKER.
Back-ropes first, and next the martingale; below this rigging, in the
end of the dolphin-striker, are two or three sheaves, and one close
above it, large enough to admit the jib-stay, which is rove through
it; flying jib-stay in the next sheave, and flying martingale stay
under all, which will show two ropes leading from each boom end, to the
dolphin-striker.
=132.=--GETTING THE JIB-BOOM OUT.
The flying jib-boom iron is driven on; the heel rope manned (if
rigged), and the boom hauled out. The heel strap is placed in a score
in the heel for the purpose, and both bights lashed together; then
another lashing passed round the strap, between the boom and the
bowsprit, and the strap well frapped together. The heel being well
secured, set up the back ropes and guys.
_Note._--Rigging to be placed same as jib-boom.
=133.=--SENDING UP TOPGALLANT MASTS.
The topgallant top blocks being hooked, we will suppose the long mast
rope is to be rove, from the starboard side of the topmast-cap; take
the end through the square hole in the fore part of the trestle-trees,
half-hitch it through the fid-hole, and stop it round the _hounds_,
and the royal mast-head; send the hauling part through lubber’s hole,
and through a leading block or sheave on deck. The topgallant rigging
is fitted on a sheet-iron cylinder or funnel, attached to the jack
cross-trees (by an order from the former Navy Commissioners), leathered
and painted on the outside, and tarred on the inside; put on the
grommet or strap for the main royal stay[8] to reeve through, then put
on the topgallant and flying jib-stays, starboard and larboard shrouds,
breast and standing backstays, and secure them over the funnel;
overhaul the girtlines down on deck, and bend them on to the rigging,
around all parts, about the length of the mast-head below the jack, and
a good stop through the funnel; hoist the funnel up and place it, with
the rigging on, over the hole in the cap, and take the stays forward
and reeve them.
Man the mast-ropes and “sway away,” having men stationed to bear off
and place the rigging or funnel. When pointed through the funnel, place
the royal rigging and truck, reeve the signal halyards, and _attach_
the conductor; “sway higher,” land the mast on the top or forepart of
lower mast-cap, and, if required, reeve the short mast rope; reeve the
pointed end through a block hooked to the cap on the larboard side, or
the sheave, then through the trestle-trees, through the sheave-hole
in the topgallant-mast, up through the trestle-trees, and secure the
end to the foremost bolt in the cap, with two half-hitches, and seize
the end; to the thimble in the other end, hook the double block of a
burton; hook the single one to a strap round the trestle-trees; send
the burton fall on deck through lubber’s hole, and lead it through a
single leading block, and haul it taut; unreeve the long mast rope,
and fid the mast; when the fid is in, the mast rope can be unrove, if
wished.
Reeve the ends of the shrouds through the horns of the cross-trees,
between the topmast rigging, over the futtock staves, and turn a
thimble in each end; strap another round a futtock plate, inside the
dead-eyes of top-mast rigging; if there is none placed in the top,
splice a lanyard into that in each shroud, and take two or three turns
through each, stay the mast, and set the rigging and backstays up.
In setting up the backstays the single block of the jigger, which is
hooked to the thimble, is hooked to a blackwall hitch, in the lanyard,
and when set up, expend the lanyard through the thimbles, and seize
the ends. On both shrouds on each side clap on small jiggers, hook the
double blocks to straps on the shrouds, the single to Blackwall hitches
in the lanyards, and set up and secure the same as the backstays.
The fore topgallant stay reeves through the outer sheave-hole in the
jib-boom, and through a bull’s-eye hooked to the bows, and when set up,
is seized to its own part.
The main topgallant stay is rove through the middle sheave in the after
chock of the fore topmast crosstrees, or through a block strapped
around the fore mast-head, and set up in the fore top.
The mizen topgallant stay is rove through a bull’s-eye in the after
part of the main cap, and set up in the main top.
[8] Suppose this to be the fore topgallant-mast.
=134.=--ROYAL RIGGING.
There is one breast, and after backstay on each side, seized as the
after backstays on topgallant masts. The breast backstay or _shroud_,
is pulled up with a gun tackle purchase;[9] the after leg has a thimble
turned in, and sets up in the after part of the chains, with a lanyard.
_Royal stays._--As there is no funnel (although it would be a
great advantage to have one), splice an eye in the stay to fit the
mast-head, cover it, and serve over the splice. It goes on next to
the grommet, then the shroud and backstays, spanned together.
The fore royal stay is rove through the outer sheave-hole in the
flying jib-boom end, and pulled up through a fair leader on the
forecastle.
The main royal stay is rove through a thimble stopped around the
foretop gallant mast-head, through another strapped round the eye of
a shroud, and when set up is seized to its own part.
Mizen royal stay reeves through a sheave in the after part of the
main topmast trestle-trees, through a thimble strapped round the eye
of a main shroud, and seized to its own part.
[9] Royal-backstays are set up with a jigger to their respective
places in the channels. The shrouds are set up in the top
breast-backstay-fashion.
=135.=--SHORT AND LONG TOPGALLANT MAST-ROPES.
_Short mast ropes_ have a thimble spliced in one end, and the other
end pointed. They are rove when the mast is rigged, and are used for
fidding. They should be sufficiently long (when the mast is landed on
the top or cap), after being rove through the block and sheave in the
heel of the mast, and clenched to the cap, to allow the thimble to hang
clear of the cat-harpen legs.
If the topsail-yard is crossed, the mast is landed on it, for rigging;
if the topgallant-mast should be too long to allow its being landed on
the yard, the mast rope must be lengthened accordingly.
_Long mast ropes._--Ropes are often fitted for the purpose; but the
topgallant yard rope is generally used. I have seen them fitted as
follows, and they answered very well:--
The rope is rove, and stopped to the topgallant-masthead, and royal
sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the upper stop, to hitch to the
bolt, before cutting the stops. To prevent the rope _slipping_, rack
both parts together above the sheave-hole in the heel of the mast.
=136.=--TO RIG THE FLYING JIB-BOOM.
Sway it on board and point it through the iron at the jib-boom end. A
tail block is put on the neck of the iron, or on the jib-stay, close
down to the boom. Through this block reeve the heel rope, one end taken
in on the forecastle, and the other bent to the heel of the boom.
A rope is bent to the heel of the boom to serve as a guy; sway the
boom out a foot or two for rigging. Put over the foot ropes, fitted
as the jib-boom, the inner ends seized to the jib-boom end, inside
the iron. The martingale, when single, is secured round the boom end,
clenched, spliced, or with a running eye, rove through a sheave in the
dolphin-striker, and in on the forecastle, on the opposite side to the
royal stay. When double, a single block is strapped round the boom end,
and the standing part spliced round the dolphin-striker; hauling part
as when single.
_Guys._--One on each side spliced into each other, forming a
cut-splice to fit the boom end. The other end rove through thimbles,
strapped round the spritsail yard, through fair leaders in the
bulwarks, and pulled up on the forecastle, or set up on the bows.
Man the heel rope and get the boom out; the heel is placed in a
step formed on the fore side of the bowsprit cap, for the purpose,
and secured with a lashing, rove through the end, and passed round
the jib-boom. Set up the martingale, stay the fore topgallant and
royal mast, (fore and aft,) by the stays and backstays; and if the
spritsail yard is crossed, reeve the guys, turn in thimbles, and set
them up.
=137.=--SPRITSAIL LIFTS
Are single; have an eye spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm; splices
served over are taken over the jib guys, rove through the bull’s-eye in
the cap, and set up on the forecastle. Blocks are sometimes strapped
into the bolts, but it is quite unnecessary. Bolts are often driven
into the fore side of the cap, and the lifts led through; when this
is done, they are generally set up there with lanyards and thimbles,
spliced into the end, which answers every purpose.
=138.=--SPRITSAIL BRACES.
A single block is strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the foremast on
each side. The brace has an eye in one end, to fit the yard arm; the
other is rove through the single block, on collar of fore-stay, and
another single block is spliced into the end; a luff tackle purchase is
rove with it, and a double block on the deck, one sheave answering for
a leading one.
They are sometimes rove double, but the practice is getting out of date.
=139.=--STRAPPING THIMBLES FOR GUYS ON SPRITSAIL YARDS.
The thimbles are double-strapped and secured, after being placed round
the yard, and in the score of the thimbles, with a round seizing passed
between the thimble and the yard; the splices laying in the upper side
of the score in the thimbles. Some fit grummet straps, or a short-long
splice, in the strap for neatness.
The use of double straps is to allow the thimbles to lay fair with the
yard for the jib guys to lead through; if single, they would stand fore
and aft.
=140.=--CROSSING A SPRITSAIL YARD.
The yard being rigged, prepare for crossing as follows:
Clap a good selvagee strap well up, on the fore topmast stay; to it
hook a snatch or leading block large enough to take a hawser; reeve
it and timber-hitch it round the starboard quarter of the spritsail
yard, (if got out on the starboard side,) stop it along to the larboard
quarter, and half way out on the larboard yard-arm. Overhaul down the
lifts and braces, and sway out, keeping the larboard yard-arm under
the bowsprit; when clear on the larboard side, put over the brace, or
block, and lift, and haul out; when nearly out, or before clear of
the head rails, put over the starboard brace or block and lift; haul
on the hawser, starboard lift, and brace, and cast off the stops.
When sufficiently out, pass the parrel, _take a turn or hold well on
the end_; hook the tye, and square the yard. Cast off the hawser and
unreeve it; reeve the jib-guys through their thimbles on the spritsail
yard, turn in dead-eyes or blocks, and set them up to others on the
bows; set all up taut and square the yard.
=141.=--TWO HALF SPRITSAIL YARDS.
Two half spritsail yards, made like dolphin-strikers, are secured to
the bowsprit with jaws, (or an iron band fitted round the bowsprit,
with a double goose-neck hinge,) to cant or turn in any required
direction. When the half spritsail yard is carried it is rigged as
follows:--
The fore guys are made of well stretched rope, and equal in strength to
the jib guys together, each fitted with an artificial eye to fit the
jib-boom end and half yard-arm. They should be wormed with small rope,
parceled and served, or covered in the eyes; four stranded rope is
preferable, it being not so liable to stretch as three.
The after guys are fitted with an artificial eye in one end, to fit the
yard arm, and a thimble spliced into the other. They are the same size
as the fore guys, and wormed in the same manner. If made on purpose,
and four-stranded, the thimble is kept in the bight with a round
seizing.
The jumper, or lower guy, is fitted the same as the after, only
shorter; the length of this depends on the drop intended to be given to
the yard arm, which should never be less than the spritsail yard, when
well braced up, or, in other words, _canted_.
The jumper is put on the yard arm first, then the after one, next, the
foremost, and over the jib-boom. The after one is set up to a bolt by
the cat-head, well down; the lower, to an eye-bolt in each side of the
cutwater, well out.
For a frigate, the guys are eight-and-a-half-inch, and wormed with
twenty-one thread stuff. Four-stranded rope, if made on purpose, can
have the eyes formed when laying up in the rope walk. Some fit forward
and after guys all in one.
=142.=--WHISKERS.
Whiskers are iron outriggers from the cathead, with sheaves in them for
the guys to reeve through, and set up to the fore chains, the same as
when rove through the spritsail yard. This plan is much in use in small
vessels, but the boom is supported almost entirely by the martingale,
as the guys being considerably above the boom, and its always _topping
up_, when the sail is set on a wind, the more wind the greater the
strain on the martingale; and should the guys be not carefully pulled
up, the boom must depend on the martingale entirely for support.
=143.=--TO GET ON BOARD AND RIG LOWER YARDS.
Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast-head, bend on to the slings
of the yard, and get them nearly up and down; clap selvagees on the
quarters, to which hook the pendant tackles. As it comes on board, cut
the stops, easing away on the pendant tackle, and bousing on the other,
until the yard is athwart-ships; place chocks in the hammock nettings
for the yard to rest on; slue them fair, and lash them; come up the
tackles, cast off the hawsers, and place a shore under the middle of
the yard to prevent its springing. Measure the yard, tar and leather
the slings, fit a saddle for the D thimble, which lash on with a piece
of well stretched rope, heaving each turn taut with a Spanish windlass,
and fitting the score of the D thimble. Cover all with leather, and fit
the straps for the preventer slings, &c., &c., &c.
_Note._--The iron sling-bands are now used instead of the _old
fashioned_ D thimble.
Chain is now generally used, and allowed to all ships in the service
for the slings (proper), rope ones being used as preventers. (See
Rigging Table.)
=144.=--TRUSS STRAPS.
A large thimble with the score well parceled, is seized into a double
strap, which is made by splicing both ends together, and served over;
the thimble secured in the strap with a round seizing, the splice
laying in the score. The strap should be long enough to go round the
yard in the quarter, both eyes lashing together on the fore side. There
are two on each yard. One thimble is seized inside the truss pendant,
the other outside; and one in the round of the pendant higher up than
the other.
=145.=--TRUSS PENDANTS[10]
Are wormed, parceled, and served; an eye is spliced in one end large
enough to take the pendant when rove through it; in the other an
artificial eye is made, large enough to take the single block for truss
fall. The pendant should be rove through the small eye before the
artificial one is made, boused well taut round the yard, the eye being
kept underneath, and one pendant higher than the other. Reeve the upper
pendant through the upper thimble, and lower pendant through lower
thimble. Being rove in this manner, they will lead perfectly clear of
each other.
_Hide rope_ is preferable for pendants, but the iron patent truss is
now allowed to all vessels, up to a second class frigate inclusive.
(_New regulation_).
[10] For length and size, see Rigging Table.
=146.=--QUARTER BLOCKS--LOWER YARDS.