REEVING RUNNING RIGGING.
=209.=--FORE BOWLINES.
The fore bowlines have an eye in one end, to go over the toggle, and
are rove through a single block, seized into a single strap, and
secured to the fore-stay collar with a seizing passed through an eye
left in the strap, and the other end led in on the forecastle.
The fore and main clue-garnets are hitched to the yards, then rove
through a block lashed in the clews of the sail, up through a block on
the quarter of the yard, down to the fife-rail.
=210.=--FORE-TOPSAIL CLEWLINES.
Topsail clewlines are fitted the same as clew-garnets, and sometimes
with a whip; they come on deck through lubber’s hole.
When fitted with a whip, a piece of rope nearly equal to the double
clewline, is rove through the quarter-block, and an eye spliced in one
end, which is secured with a seizing round the clew, when the sail is
bent. In the other end, splice a single block, and reeve a fall through
it; one end splice into a bolt in the deck, and the other reeve through
a leading-block, well apart from the standing-part.
_Note._--The disadvantage of double clewlines, is, the points getting
in the clew-blocks when clewing up, or sheeting home.
=211.=--TOPSAIL BUNTLINES
Are toggled to the foot of the sails, and rove through single blocks
at the mast-head, underneath the rigging, and through lubber’s hole on
deck. Cheeks or sheaves set in the foremost end of the trestle-trees
are best, as they keep the buntlines clear of the belly of the sails.
Blocks in bolts will do equally as well, but do not look so neat.
I would recommend fitting a shoe-block underneath the eyes of the
rigging, on each side, in preference.
Buntline-spans are short pieces of rope, with a thimble in one end, and
the other end whipped; the buntlines are rove through these thimbles,
before being bent to the sail, or rove at the mast-head. At sea these
spans are knotted together, abaft the tye-blocks on the yard, and
stopped to them. When in harbor, they are let go, to allow the sails
being triced well-up to furl, or hauled out to dry, by the bowlines,
when toggled to the foot of the sail.
=212.=--FORETOP BOWLINES
Have an eye spliced in one end to go over the toggle on the bridle;
the other is rove through a block at the bowsprit-cap, strapped into a
bolt, or a sheave cut in the after end of the bees and led in on the
forecastle.
=213.=--MAIN BUNTLINES.
There are two on each quarter, and reeve on the bights. Reeve first
through the large sheave in a shoe-block, then reeve both ends, from
forward, through the double block under the fore part of the main-top,
and bend or clinch both ends to the holes in the foot of the sail for
the purpose. Sometimes toggles are fitted into the holes, with double
straps, and an eye spliced into each end of the buntlines. If no
shoe-block is to be got, seize two single ones into one strap. Through
the other sheave of shoe-block, reeve a fall; clinch one end to the
main-stay by the foremast, or splice an eye and seize it round it. The
other end reeve through a leading block, seized into a single strap,
leaving an eye to seize it to the stay, or through a sheave or leading
block in the fore-bitts.
=214.=--FORE BUNTLINES
Generally toggle to the foot of the sail, and are sometimes clinched;
then rove through a double block under the fore part of the fore-top,
and through fair leading sheaves in the racks to the bulwarks. The
buntline should be long enough to allow the sail to belly. The outside
leg of the buntline is sometimes rove through a thimble strapped
into the foot of the sail, and clenched into a cringle put into the
bolt-rope, a few feet above the clew.
=215.=--MAIN BOWLINE
Is a runner and tackle, and is rove and unrove as required. It is rove
through the thimble seized on the bowline bridle; the end of the runner
is secured round the fore-bitts, or to a cleat. The lower block of the
gun-tackle purchase is fitted with a hook, and hooked to a strap close
to the end of the runner, for the purpose. I have seen the main-bowline
boused up to the weather-forecastle bulwarks, which I think preferable,
not seeing any very great advantage from its being hauled amidships;
particularly when it is considered that the main-topsail yard, on a
wind, is braced abaft the main-yard.
=216.=--TOPGALLANT SHEETS
Are rove through the sheave in the topsail-yard, then through the after
sheave in the double block in the quarter of the topsail-yard, and
through a leading sheave or block on deck. The upper end is bent to the
clew of the topgallant-sail; sometimes a long-eye is spliced, which
goes over a toggle in the clew of the sail. They are also fitted with
sister-hooks, which is the latest and most improved plan.
[Illustration]
=217.=--TOPGALLANT CLEWLINES
Are bent through the clew of the sail, and secured with a sheet-bend;
it is then rove through the foremost sheave on the quarter-block on the
yard, and sent down through lubber’s hole on deck.
=218.=--FORE TOPGALLANT BOWLINES
Are toggled to the bridle of the sail. The fore one is rove through
a single block at the jib-boom end, one on each side, and led in
on the forecastle through fair leaders. These blocks are strapped
like span-blocks, and lashed together on the upper side with two
lashing-eyes; they are sometimes strapped singly, and go over the
boom-end, or seized to the guys. Double blocks are also sometimes put
in these straps, and the two inner sheaves used as jib-brail-leaders.
=219.=--MAIN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES
Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, then rove through sheaves
cut in the after part of the fore-topmast-crosstrees, and through
lubber’s hole, through fair leading sheaves on deck. Single tail-blocks
are sometimes used, clove-hitched round the after shroud in the
fore-topmast rigging, close up to the futtock-stave, or seized.
=220.=--MIZEN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES
Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, and rove through single blocks
on each side of the main-mast head, and through fair leading blocks on
deck. A double block is often used instead of two single ones on each
side, one sheave for the brace, the other for the bowline. They should
be led from lubber’s hole abaft all, between the cat-harpen legs, or
futtock-shrouds.
=221.=--TOPGALLANT BUNTLINES
Are seldom used in light weather, although very necessary in taking in
sail, when blowing fresh, as they save much time, and in some instances
a man’s life. On a wind it spills the sail, and prevents its getting
over the lee yard-arm; and going free enables the men to furl it much
easier. A strong proof of their utility may be inferred from the fact
that merchant vessels, who have as little rope rove as possible, and
are generally weak-handed, have their sails fitted with buntlines.
They are fitted as follows:--A piece of rope with a thimble on it, is
spliced into two eyelet-holes, worked in the foot of the sail, about
a third from each clew.[22] Splice the end of the buntline round the
thimble; reeve the other end through a single block, seized into a
single strap, and secured round the topgallant mast-head by a lashing
passed over all; send the end of the buntline through lubber’s hole, on
deck before all to the fife-rail.
[22] This piece of rope is called a span.
=222.=--ROYAL BOWLINES.
The fore royal-bowline is rove through a block at the flying-jib-boom
end, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader, the same as
the topgallant-bowline, and the main-royal bowlines through the chock
at fore-topmast head.
=223.=--REEF-TACKLES
Are sometimes double, and also fitted with a whip, as clewlines, or
pendant and burton. When double, a single block is seized into a single
strap, having a thimble in it, and the seizing passed between the block
and thimble. This block goes on the bridle, or cringle, in the leech of
the topsails. One end of the reef-tackle is clinched round the neck of
the boom-iron, the other rove through the block, up through the sheave
in the yard-arm, and through the upper sheave in the sister-block,
through lubber’s hole, and through a leading block or sheave on deck.
When single, an eye is spliced in the end of the pendant, to go over
a toggle fitted to a bridle, as above; the other end rove through the
yard and sister-block, a single block spliced into the end, and a whip
rove, as on the clewline.
_Note._--The generality of naval ships use their top-burtons with
short hide-pendants; some object to this, as the top-burtons may be
wanted, when they are in use as reef-tackles.
=224.=--LEECH-LINES.
The forward leech-lines are rove through the upper sheave-hole of a
shoe-block; both parts are then rove through a double block, hooked
with a pendant to the lower cap, then through two single blocks seized
to the jackstays on the yards, and are clinched to the leeches of the
courses, forward of the sail.
The lower legs are rove through the other sheave-hole in the
shoe-block, and the standing-part made fast to the fife-rail; the other
end being used to haul up the sails.
The after leech-lines are rove through blocks on the underneath part
of the yard, and clinched to the courses abaft the sail, to the same
places as the forward ones.
_Note._--Shoe-blocks are now pretty much out of fashion--when they
are not used, both parts of the leech-lines are led on deck and the
whip-purchase dispensed with.
=225.=--SLAB-LINES
Are bent to the middle of a span at the foot of the sail, led up abaft,
and rove through a block lashed to the grommet or span, around the
straps of the quarter-blocks of the lower yards, and down on deck.
These are very necessary in light weather, and in rough weather, may be
converted into spilling-lines.
=226.=--ROYAL CLEW-LINES
Are bent to the clews of the sail, rove through the quarter-blocks on
the yard, and led either in the tops, or on deck.
=227.=--FITTING TACKS AND SHEETS, BUMKIN-GEAR, &c.
A single block is seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the
bumkin; this block is made with a shoulder, which lays on the bumkin
when the block is on.
Bumkin-braces are now generally chain; one is hooked to the bow,
and two to the cutwater; and set up with a lanyard rove through
span-shackles in their ends, and others on the bumkin, or with a
turnbuckle.
_Reeving the tack._--Clinch the large end round the bumkin, outside
the block, having been well wormed, parceled, and served, far enough
towards the small end to take the block on the bumkin, when the sail
is reefed. Reeve the small end through the block in the sail, then
through that on the bumkin, and in on the forecastle through a hole
in the bulwarks, for the purpose.
_Fore sheet._--The large end is served the same as the tack, and is
hooked into a bolt in the side for the purpose; the small end is rove
through the block in the sail, and through a sheave in the side, or
gangway bulwarks. Large ships generally work the fore-sheet in the
waist (main-deck), but it is often worked on the gangway, (spar-deck).
=228.=--YARD TACKLE TRICING-LINES.
If no cheek on the yard, take the pendants taut along from the
yard-arm, and then secure a single tail-block. On the foremost shroud,
well up, seize another single block, fitted with a single strap,
leaving room when seized-in, for the seizing with which it is secured
to the shroud. Round the fiddle-block in the pendant, between both
sheaves, secure the tricing-line with a running-eye; then reeve the
other end through the cheek, or tail-block, and then through the single
block on the shroud, and on deck.
=229.=--TO REEVE AND TOGGLE ROYAL-HALLIARDS.
Take a round-turn with the yard-rope, well up round the strap of the
block, with the long-eye; reeve the bight through the eye and put the
toggle in it; then bring the end up from the block seized to the eye
of the shroud, and reeve it through the one on the yard-rope, send the
end on deck, and reeve it through a leading block.
When half-hitched, the lower block is fitted as described, and secured;
the upper one is strapped with a thimble in the strap--reeve the
yard-rope through the thimble, and then through the lower block, up
through the upper one, and on deck through a leader.
=230.=--FORE STORM-STAYSAIL GEAR.
_To fit the stay._--Take a piece of good rope of proportionable size
to the sail; fit one end with two legs as a stay, and lash them abaft
the foremast-head, the legs being placed underneath those of the
standing-stay. Take a piece of rope the round of the bowsprit, inside
the fore-stay collar; splice an eye in each end, and seize a thimble in
the bight--splice a lashing in one eye, and secure the strap round the
bowsprit, by passing it through both eyes, until sufficient turns are
taken to secure it. Reeve the end of this stay through the hanks for
the sail, then reeve it through the thimble in the strap, and set it
well up with a luff-purchase; the double block hooked to a strap well
up the stay, the single one to another strap on the end; then pass a
round-seizing round both parts, close to the thimble--come up the luff,
and pass another seizing between it and the end, but not at too great a
distance, as it will prevent the sail from coming close down.
_Halliards._--Have a good strap to go round the foremast-head, close
to the stay. It can be fitted with two lashing-eyes, and when so
fitted can be easier taken off, and put on. When the sail is to be
set, hook the double block of a luff-tackle to this strap, and the
single one to the head of the sail; the hauling-part being sent down
abaft the fore-yard, and through a leading block on deck.
_Downhaul._--A single block is secured to the parts of the strap
round the bowsprit--the downhaul is spliced to the head of the sail,
then rove through the hanks, through the single block, and led in on
the forecastle. When a stay is fitted, the downhaul block is seized
to the strap round the bowsprit.
The downhaul is often double; if so, a single block is secured to the
head of the sail, the standing-part of the downhaul secured to the
strap on the bowsprit, and the hauling-part led in as before.
_Sheets._--Deck-tackles are generally used, one on each side; they
are hooked to the clew of the sail, and the hooks well moused. When
the sheet is aft, the weather one is overhauled. The after blocks
are hooked to eye or ring-bolts, as convenient, and should not be
too high or too low; if too much up and down, they slack the foot of
the sail; if too high, the after leech. The falls are rove through
leading blocks, and all the hooks should be well moused.
_Note._--These stays when set up, may be secured cutter-stay-fashion,
instead of seizing the end up, which will allow the sail to haul
close down on the bowsprit.
=231.=--MAIN STAYSAIL GEAR.
The stay is fitted the same as the fore, and sets up round the
cross-piece in the fore bitts, after being rove through the hanks.
The halliards are fitted the same as the fore.
The downhaul is rove through a block strapped round the bitts for the
purpose. If rove double they are fitted in the same manner.
Instead of iron hanks, I have seen grommets used, made of pieces of
rope, with a wall-knot worked on one end, and an eye spliced in the
other; these are long enough to go round the stay and becket. They are
secured to eyelet-holes in the sail with a seizing, and are always kept
to it. I have seen the sails set on the spring-stays, when fitted in
this way, but prefer separate stays.
There are also other ways of setting storm-staysails, but those I have
mentioned are in most general use. When a main-trysail can be got,
mizen-staysails should never be drawn, as a ship will keep much better
to windward with trysails and fore-staysail, than under the staysails
alone.
=232.=--MIZEN-STAYSAIL GEAR.
The halliards are hitched to the collar of the staysail-stay, rove
through a block in the head of the sail, then through a leader, and led
down on deck.
The downhaul is clinched to the head of the sail, and rove through
the hanks down the mizen-stay. The mizen staysail-sheet is a runner,
leading through a snatch-block and thimble. A gun-tackle purchase is
most commonly used, which answers all purposes.
=233.=--TOPMAST STAYSAILS, &c., &c.
_Fore._--The standing part of the halliards is seized or hitched to the
fore topmast spring-stay, then rove through a block in the head of the
sail, up through a leading block under the eyes of the topmast rigging,
then down on the larboard side of the deck abaft the foremast. The
downhaul is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through the hanks,
then through a block seized to the tack of the sail, and led in on the
forecastle, through a fair leader. The tack is a simple lashing.
The fore topmast staysail and jib-sheets are pendants lashed to the
clew of the sail, with a block in the end, through which the sheets are
rove; the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in the bows, and the
running part is led in on the forecastle.
_Main._--The standing part of the halliards is hitched to the collar
of the main-topmast spring-stay, reeving through a block at the head
of the sail, then through a block at the main-topmast head, and
led down on deck. The downhaul is fitted the same as the fore, and
led down by the fore-mast. The tack is rove through a block in the
weather fore-rigging, or top.
The main topmast staysail-brails are seized to the leech of the sail,
led up through the hanks to a block seized to the upper hank, and can
also be used as a downhaul.
The middle, lower, and upper topgallant-staysails and jackstays,
may be fitted in one. In this case a double block is turned in,
and lashed to the after part of the fore-topmast crosstrees, or
mast-head; the lower part is set up in the fore-top, and the upper
part at the fore-topgallant mast-head.
The middle staysail-stays are rove through a single block, strapped
to the topmast, down on the cap.
The lower and upper topgallant staysail-stays, are rove through
blocks fitted to traverse the jackstay, with lock-thimbles, the
former being rove through the other sheave of the double block
at the topmast cross-trees; the latter through a block at the
fore-topgallant mast-head, and both led on deck.
The downhaul blocks are single, and are seized to the straps of the
tricing-line blocks. The halliards are whips hitched to the collars
of the stays, rove through blocks in the head of the sail, through
leading blocks at the mast-head, and down on deck. The tacks are
single and led in the fore-top; the sheets are also single, leading
in the gangways.
_Note._--The principle object to be attended to, in reeving
running-rigging, is to avoid the ropes being too much crowded in one
place, crossing or chafing each other, or any part of the standing
rigging, as it not only destroys it, but also decreases the desired
purchase to be obtained by their running clear of each other.
=234.=--SETTING UP RIGGING FOR A FULL-DUE.
[Illustration]
Have all the luffs on deck; fore, main, and mizen pendant-tackles
hooked, and tackle-falls laid along for pulling up; new lanyards
ready for reeving, seizings, marling-spikes, levers, mallets, grease,
small spars for ratling-down, triangles rigged ready for hoisting
up the mast, to secure the futtock-shrouds and cat-harpen legs, (if
used;) burton-falls sent on deck and rove--all the temporary ratlines
cast-off--spars got up underneath the bowsprit with the gratings for
the men to work on--topgallant-masts and flying jib-boom housed;
and also men stationed at the dead-eyes to turn in if required. Let
everything go abaft the masts, commence turning in the dead-eyes, and
reeve the lanyards--set up the bowsprit-rigging and secure it. Then
man the pendant-tackles, set taut the after-swifters--(if wedges in)
get the mast well forward in its place, and secure the stays. Cast off
the cat-harpen legs (if fitted), and futtock-shrouds.[23] Set up the
rigging for a full-due, observing the same precautions as when it was
first set up.
The lanyard is now rove full, and when racked, take the end and form a
clove-hitch above the dead-eye, then rack the surplus-end to the inside
parts of the lanyard, until the end is expended. The hitch is formed
between the dead-eye and shroud, around both parts, in the space left
by stretching--some use a half-hitch taken over all round the shroud,
hove well back, the lanyard expended, and the end seized. The ends of
the shrouds are then cut square and capped, and the mats laced on.
Rigging-mats are made with small rope, three-quarter-inch, and are
called sword-mats. They are generally the breadth of the dead-eye, and
long enough to take in both--the lanyards are laced inside. They are
hardly ever used on topmast rigging; they look heavy, and are of no
use, except on the forward shrouds and backstays.
[23] Vessels having their futtock-rigging set up to bands round the
mast, use no cat-harpen legs, and have therefore no occasion of
coming up either of the above.
=235.=--STAYING MASTS.
The practice of “staying masts with the wedges in,” has been already
denounced as contrary to every received system of seamanship. The
stays may be set taut with the wedges in, but the masts should be
always free in the partners, whenever there is occasion to alter the
position of their _standing_; because it is impossible but that the
precise situation of the mast must be altered a little, rendering
necessary corresponding alterations in the wedges. When these are made
and the wedges firmly fixed, there can be no inequalities of play
or pressure--the whole becomes a solid mass, yielding naturally and
uniformly to the motion of the ship. Whereas, if in setting up the
rigging the wedges be kept fast, the mast pressing unequally against
them, having too much play in one part, and too little in another, it
must inevitably get crippled.
In preparing to set up the rigging, though the stays may not appear
to require a pull, it is well to have the luffs and tackle ready; for
after lifting the wedges, there is great probability of its being found
necessary.
=236.=--BLACKING RIGGING.
The most convenient method of blacking rigging, is with the topgallant
masts on deck, but royal and topgallant rigging placed at the
mast-heads; for then men who ride down and black the topmast-stays, can
then at the same time easily black the topgallant and royal-stays; or,
what is handier still--let the men at the mast-head haul over and black
these small stays, and pay them down forward when done. The men also
who black down the topmast-backstays, can carry on at the same time
with the topgallant and royal-backstays. By this method the masts are
kept clean.
[Illustration: Scale-draft of a First-Class Frigate.]
If, on the other hand, topgallant-masts be kept up when blacking, the
small stays and backstays must be let go, in order that they may be
got at by the men on the topmast-stays and backstays; consequently the
masts must be adrift, are likely to be daubed over with blacking, and
if it should come on to blow fresh, so as to render it necessary to get
the topgallant-masts on deck, much injury must result to the blacking.
The topsail and lower lifts should be blackened first, the men having
to stand on the yards to do them.
Previous to commencing, the decks should be well sanded, and the
paint-work and head covered with old canvass. The quarter-tackle should
be clapped on one side of the main-yard, and also a burton hooked,
ready for clearing boats.
The finer and warmer the day, the better--the blacking will lay on so
much the smoother and thinner; but commencement should be delayed until
the dew is well dried off. A dry calm day is the best; for the blacking
will not take effect, unless the surface it is laid upon be dry.
=237.=--STATIONING THE CREW.
In dividing the crew into watches, care should be taken that the
physical force is as equally distributed as possible, and that there be
as many seamen, ordinary seamen, boys, and marines, in one watch as in
another.
Petty officers should be chosen from among the seamen, and those
selected who have been long in the service, and have proved faithful.
Forecastle men should be middle-aged seamen, with a few ordinary seamen
and landsmen. Young active seamen should be selected for topmen, also
a few ordinary seamen, landsmen and boys. After-guard, a few elderly
seamen, with ordinary seamen and landsmen. Waisters are chiefly
landsmen, with a few ordinary seamen; in single-decked vessels, where
there are no waisters, more men should be stationed on the forecastle
and in the after-guard, in proportion to the number of the crew of
the different classes of vessels. Idlers are excused from keeping
watch--they are officers’ servants, cooks, &c., &c.
Divide each watch into first and second parts, and appoint a captain
to each part; number the men belonging to the forecastle, having all
the larboard watch even, as two, four, six, and the starboard odd; have
the numbers painted on canvass, and let each man sew it on his bag and
hammock; having also for greater distinction, the larboard painted red,
and the starboard black. The men should be below alternately, so that
when one watch is below, there should be an equal number of the other
watch on deck.
[Illustration]
=238.=--STATIONING THE CREW AT QUARTERS.
Captains of the guns should be chosen from among the seamen who have
been long accustomed to them, steady, with good sight, and quick
motion. The largest and stoutest men should be chosen to man the long
guns, the others the cannonades. The boarders should be stout men--the
firemen and sail-trimmers, active young men. Be particular to station
them as near where they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in
order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of the gun’s crew be
in one watch, and the second part in the other, so that in the event of
going to quarters in the night, the watch on deck can clear away the
guns, while the watch below will clear away the hammocks.
To a twelve-pounder cannonade are stationed four men and one boy. All
the men stationed at the long guns of a double-decked ship, should be
armed with cutlasses, and called “boarders”--the first of the gun’s
crew to be called second boarders, and _vice versa_. They are only to
be called on when required to “board,” or in a case of great emergency
to “repel boarders,” and then every man will repair to the upper-deck,
except the firemen, quarter-gunners, and powder boys, who will remain
below to protect the ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire.
All the men stationed at the cannonades should be boarders and
sail-trimmers. As boarders, the first part should be armed with pikes;
the second part with small-arms, who are to repel the boarders, but not
to quit the ship.
In a single-decked ship, all the men stationed are boarders; the first
part to be armed with cutlasses, and the second with pikes.
The battery being manned, distribute the rest of the crew as
follows:--have a quarter-master at the signals, when in a
squadron--topmen and marines in the tops, to repair damages, and
act as small-arm-men--a quarter-master and two men at the relieving
tackles--men stationed at the passages, to pass full and empty
boxes; also others at the shot-lockers. Mastmen to see the rigging
clear--cook, and armorer at the galley--the carpenter and his mates at
the pumps and wings--the master-at-arms, and ship’s corporal in the
light-room--the gunner, his mates, quarter-gunners, and cooper, in the
magazine, and the surgeon and assistants in the cock-pit.
=239.=--STATIONING THE CREW FOR MOORING AND UNMOORING.
In stationing the men, place the same number of men, of each watch, to
perform a piece of duty. When in a squadron, have quarter-masters at
the signals, and also in the chains--men at the wheel--quarter-gunners
to overhaul the fish, and grapple the buoys--men to overhaul and hook
the cat, and attend the back-ropes; also others at the mast, to see
the rigging clear. Boatswain’s mates in the gangways; carpenter’s
mates to ship and unship the capstan bars, and attend the stanchions,
with the music at the capstan--some fore-topmen to put on nippers,
or selvagees, some main-topmen to take them off, and boys to carry
them forward. Hands to rouse up and veer away the cable, to attend
the stoppers, and light forward the messenger. The yeoman in the
store-room--master-at-arms, and ship’s corporal on the berth-deck, and
cook at the galley--tierces in each tier, or chain-locker, and the
remainder of the men at the capstan.
=240.=--LOOSING AND FURLING.
Take the same number of men from each watch, and station them at the
same rope, &c. The topmen are to man their respective yards--hands
are to attend the boom-jiggers and tricing-lines--forecastle men to
attend head-sails, trysail and foresail--main-yard men to look out for
the main-sail--after-guard, for the spanker and main-trysail--for the
main-topmast staysail, the fore-top-men--for the main-staysail, the
gunner’s crew--hand stationed to sheet home, and hoist the topsails,
and when coming to an anchor, the same men to man the clew-lines,
bunt-lines, and weather-braces; and when loosing sails to dry, to man
bowlines, or buntlines. In furling, the captains are to be in the
bunt, in reefing, at the earings.
=241.=--STATIONING THE CREW FOR TACKING AND VEERING.
Station the men from the “watch bill”--have hands at the jib-boom end,
to overhaul the jib-brails, and light over flying-jib sheets. On the
bowsprit end to light over jib-pendants--hands on the bumkins, and
in the chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, and backstay-falls. On
deck, at the wheel, spritsail-braces, jib-sheets, jib-brails, braces,
bow-lines, clew-garnets, tacks and sheets, backstay-falls, lifts,
trusses, spanker-sheets, guys, vangs, and topping-lifts. Aloft, to
overhaul lifts and trusses--attend outriggers, and bear the backstays
abaft and abreast--the mast-men to see the rigging clear, &c., &c.
_For reefing._--The men are stationed as in furling, with the
exception of the captains, who are stationed at the earings. When the
yards are down, the men from the clew-lines and bunt-lines will haul
out the reef-tackles.
=242.=--GETTING READY TO BEND SAILS.
It is customary to bend the light sails first, such as jibs, spankers,
and trysails. Overhaul the jib and flying-jib stay, and halliards, in
on the forecastle. Have the lashing spliced into the sheets ready for
passing, and seizings to the hanks.
Overhaul down into the top the reef-tackles, and stop the blocks to the
foremost shrouds, (or the end if single.) Overhaul the topsail-sheets
from the yard-arm, and half-hitch them round a dead-eye, or foremost
futtock-plate. Bunt-lines into the top, and stop them to the foremost
shroud, above the topsail-yard, or to the tye-blocks--clew-lines
into the top, and stop them to the eye of a shroud, and get the
harbor-gaskets on the yards. A rope-yarn stop will be quite sufficient
for all these purposes. Both burtons should be overhauled on deck
before all.
Overhaul down the leech-lines, slab-lines, bunt-lines and clew-garnets,
and stop them so as to prevent their flying about.
Take two selvagee-straps, put them round the neck of the boom-irons,
and to them hook the double-block of a long jigger; the single one
overhaul down, and hook to a ring or eye-bolt in the bulwarks, and the
fall led through a leading block a-midships.
[Illustration: United States’ Ship-of-the-Line COLUMBUS, at Anchor.]
Lower down the gaffs--overhaul the brails, and have seizings of
two-yarn spun-yarn ready, to secure them to the sails. If hoops,
seizings should also be put on them, with both ends rove through the
bight.
Topgallant yards should be got out of the rigging, and laid on deck out
of the way, ready for bending the sails. Top-burtons overhauled down
forward of all, for the topsails.
_Note._--When the preparations above stated are made, it is intended
to bend all the sails together.
=243.=--BENDING SAILS.
Call all hands to bend sails--get the courses, jib, topsails, and
spanker, on deck. Open them out, and see that they are whole and
complete; with the bowline-bridles, head and reef-earings, rope-bands,
reef-points, sheet, clew-line, and reef-tackle blocks all in their
proper places. Bight the topsails down in their respective places
forward of the masts, with the clews out. Hook the lower block of the
burton to the slings passed round the centre of the sail, and mouse the
hook--reeve the fall through a snatch-block or leader, and keep the
sail clear of the top as it goes up.
Overhaul the courses athwart the deck, shackle on the sheet, and
also the tack, and clew-garnet blocks--reeve and bend the gear--stop
the head of the sail to the bunt-lines, use the clew-jiggers for
yard-ropes, hooking to the first reef-cringle, and stop the head
earings to the block.
The end of the jib-stay having been brought in on the forecastle,
reeve in the hanks, and stop the luff of the jib--hook on the
halliards--reeve the downhauls--fit the brail-block and reeve the
brails--hook on the sheet-blocks, or pendants, and reeve the sheets.
Lower the spanker-gaff--pass the throat and peak-earings, and lace
the head to the gaff--seize on the brails, and reeve them and the
outhauler. All being ready,
_To man the gear._--First, man the top-burtons and sway the topsails
clear of the deck--man the jib-halliards and downhaul--yard-ropes,
clew-garnets, clew-lines, bunt-lines, reef-tackles, and
gaff-halliards: at the word run out the jib, reeve and set up the
stay, and seize the tack. Sway the topsails and courses up to the
yards, where some hands are ready to receive them. Bend the gear
and haul out; then take a turn with the earings--ride down the heads
and pass the earings exactly; make fast the rope-bands, fit the
leech-line block of the courses--seize on and reeve the leech-line.
In the mean-time some hands are employed in seizing on the hoops of
the trysails and spanker, as they go aloft. After the sails are all
bent, it would be well to let them fall, to see that all the gear is
bent clear, if so, clew up and furl the courses and topsails, and
stow the jib, spanker and trysails.
The topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails are bent on deck.
Send the staysails into the tops, fit the jackstays and tricing-line
blocks, seize the head of the luff; reeve the halliards, downhauls,
and brails, bend the tacks and sheets; stow the staysails and haul
all taut.
_Note._--The staysails are not _all_ allowed by the new Book of
Allowances.
=244.=--BENDING SMALL SAILS.
By small sails are meant topgallant-sails, royals, flying-jib,
studding-sails and staysails.
It is only in ships in good order where the men go through this
manœuvre with smartness and method, after being exercised, and having
become familiar with the ship and their stations.
First, all the yards, topgallant, royal, and studding-sail, should be
got out of the rigging, and down on deck at the same time. Next, a
proportion of hands should be sent to each sail, and all bent together,
including flying-jib and staysails.
When the topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails, are all bent,
they should be swayed into the rigging all together, and not one after
another.
If the topgallant-yards happen to be across, the best plan, if
circumstances will permit, is to bend all the other small sails first,
except the flying-jib, and then to wait until the yards are sent down
at sunset, to bend topgallant-sails and flying-jib.
Topgallant sails ought not to be bent while the yards are across,
because the earings must then be hauled out, and passed _over_ the
lifts and braces, which precludes the possibility of unrigging the yard
afterwards, without unbending the sail. Sometimes one of the two sets
of topgallant-yards are appropriated in harbor to exercise, (sending up
and down) while the other is kept below, with the sail bent, ready for
crossing.
In bending topgallant-sails, the earings are passed the same as the
topsail, and the sail seized to the jackstay, the yard-rope bent, the
sails furled, and the yard got into the lower rigging. In furling,
bring the leeches taut along the yard, and keep the clews in the bunt,
then roll the sail up from the yard-arm, and pass the gaskets. Put
the grommet over the yard-arm, man the yard-rope and sway the yard up
and down; put the lower yard-arm into the snotter, over the foremost
dead-eye; secure the upper yard-arm with a lanyard spliced round the
shroud for the purpose; it is called a stop. The lizard should be
singled, ready for going aloft, by reeving it once through the thimble
on the yard-arm, and half-hitch round the yard-rope with the bight.
Trysails and storm-staysails should be bent at this time, if they are
to be bent at all before leaving harbor.
_Note._--Good rope-yarns answer very well for robins for
topgallant-sails and royals. You are never at a loss for them in
bending, and in unbending they are easily cut.
=245.=--BENDING A SPANKER.
Overhaul the brails well, and pass the sail through their bights. Haul
the earing in the jaws out first; then the outer one. Splice the lacing
into the outer eyelet-hole, lacing, and secure the lacing in the jaws.
Bring the after-leech taut, along the gaff, and within a few inches of
the blocks; mark the place for the throat-brails, also for the peak,
opposite their respective cheeks on the gaff, and seize the brails to
the leech-rope, by passing the seizing between the strands and round
the brails. Eyelet-holes, worked close to the leech-rope, are far
preferable for seizing the brails to.
The throat-earing is generally passed through an eye-bolt in the lower
part of the jaws; but this never brings the sail close to the mast, and
looks very bad. In preference, I would recommend having a score cut
under the leather in the jaws, and the earing passed from the cringle
through this score, and an eye-bolt on the upper side of the jaws,
back through the cringle, and so on, until sufficient turns are taken
to secure the sail. Large staples also are fitted to the jaws for the
purpose, and keys on top, which answer better, and are more secure;
also bending battens, instead of lacing round the gaff.
The outer earing is passed round a cleat on the upper side of the
gaff, for the purpose. Take the earing from the cringle, pass it round
outside the cleat, back through the cringle, and round the cleat, until
sufficient turns are taken; then take several inner turns round the
gaff and cringle; frap all the outer turns together, with the remaining
part of the earing, to bring the parts close, and prevent any chance of
their slipping over the cleat; take two half-hitches, expend, and seize
the end.
To haul out this earing, and stretch the head of the sail well, use a
small jigger; secure the double block to an eye-bolt in the end of the
gaff, pass three turns of the earing, cat’s-paw the end, to which hook
the other block, and pull the earing well out. I have frequently seen
only one earing used; but would prefer two, as all inner turns, when
much strain is on them, should have a separate earing. If a new sail,
and requires much stretching, it is hauled well out before passing the
earing, by hooking the inner block of the jigger to the cringle. Man
the throat and peak-halliards, hoist the sail up gradually, seize the
hoops, and reeve the lacing.
_Note._--Trysails are bent in the same manner. Some fit them to haul
_in_ and _out_ on the gaff, with hoops.
=246.=--FITTING SEA-GASKETS.
Gaskets are made with foxes, or small spun-yarn, and platted, like
making sennit. The spun-yarn is middled over the bolt, and platted
together, the bight forming the eye; sometimes a piece is platted for
the eye, then all worked together; if not, the eye is served over
afterwards. Sea-gaskets are long enough to have only two on each
yard-arm, and to furl the sail over booms and all, when close-reefed,
as there will be no more sail on the yard-arms than at any other time.
They are secured round the jackstay, by reeving the end through the
eye; sometimes round the yard.
=247.=--FITTING HARBOR-GASKETS.
In making, the eye is left large enough to take a small thimble, then
platted broader in the centre, and tapered to a small end. The broad
part should be long enough to make the sail in when furled with two
reefs. They may be (to look well) about two-and-a-half inches wide,
but this is quite a matter of taste. When put on the yard, the thimble
is put underneath the jackstay from forward, and secured to it by a
seizing passed round the neck of the gasket and jackstay, close to the
thimble, and when the sail is ready for their being passed, it is taken
up and rove through the thimble, and the sail tossed well up; the end
then shoved underneath between the sail and gasket, once or twice.
These always look better than any other, are easier passed and secured,
and keep the sail well up. There is generally one harbor-gasket to
every other seam.
=248.=--BUNT-GASKETS.
These are always, as to fitting, a matter of taste, but at present
they are generally made of wove mat, two or three inches wide, with
the two legs crossed, and an eye in each end. I have seen them made
of rope, in the following manner:--Take the distance between the two
quarter blocks, and measure it off on deck; drive a nail slightly into
the deck at each end; then measure from the centre the height the
bunt is intended to be, and there drive another nail. Take a piece of
rope, from two and a half to three-inch, and measure off sufficient to
go over these nails, forming a triangle; splice both ends together,
and seize a thimble in each corner; put these thimbles over the nails
again, and fill the space in diamonds or squares, according to fancy.
The thimbles in each end are secured by the quarter-blocks to the
jackstay, and also in the centre. It is not necessary to have thimbles
in each end, as an eye will answer every purpose. A long sennit-gasket
is middled and seized by the upper thimble; it should be sufficiently
long to go round the mast, when the gasket is boused up, to secure it
and the bunt well into the mast.
=249.=--HAMMOCK GIRTLINES.
Whips are rove at the yard-arms. If rope is not used on purpose for
girtlines, the studding-sail halliards will answer; they are rove as
follows:--A tail block is put on each side of the jib-boom end, and
another on the spanker-boom. Overhaul down the whips, and bend them
round the girtlines with a bowline knot, allowing room for their
rendering through. Belay the foremost ends of the girtlines and trice
up; haul upon the after-part, and get all taut. A man lays out on each
yard-arm, and marks the girtline with rope-yarns where the tricing
line, or a whip, should be bent; then lower away, cast off the bowline
knot, and bend the tricing lines round the girtlines with a rolling
hitch.
The whips are led from the lower yards to the lower caps, through
blocks hooked to the bolts, and on deck. The lower end of the
tricing-line is often bent to the girt-line as an inhaul or downhaul;
but it is best to have them separate, as it prevents walking the
hammocks up, and laying across the deck; and there are plenty of other
ropes’ ends which will answer the same purpose.
When one girt-line of a side is not enough, others are rove inside in
the same manner. The generality of ships reeve them inside of the lower
rigging, as they are much easier got down, and the hammocks are not so
likely to get dirty, or overboard.
=250.=--STOPPING ON HAMMOCKS.
Every man should be obliged to have three knittle-stops at the head,
and two at the foot of his hammock. When stopping on, they should
overlay at each side about two or three inches, and be stopped together
at the foot--numbers up and in.
The forecastle-men should stop their hammocks on forward, next
foretop-men, next maintop-men, next mizentop-men, next after-guard,
idlers, and boys. Boatswain’s mates abreast of each hatchway.
=251.=--FURLING OR STOWING THE BUNT OF A SAIL.
When the sail is nearly rolled up, hook the bunt-jigger, bouse it
well up, lower the buntlines, and _shove_ the sail well into the
skin, taking pains to keep the bunt square; pass and secure the
bunt-gasket--take off the jigger--lower and square the studding-sail
booms, and pass the heel-lashings.
=252.=--FURLING COURSES.
The leeches are handed in along the yard, then the sail rolled up snug,
with the ends of the points passed in towards the bunt, to give the
sail a gradual increase in that direction. Pass the gaskets, lower the
booms, and, if required, stop up the gear.
Bowlines are stopped to the slings close down, and hauled taut on the
forecastle.
The bowline-bridles of all sails, in furling, are laid with the toggle
towards the bunt, and bridles taut along the yard.
When a sail is neatly furled, it appears neither above nor below the
yard--earings well slewed up--sail smooth under the gaskets, bunt
square, and a _taut_ skin. The heels of the booms should be square, and
every thing necessary completed, previous to _squaring_ the yards.
=253.=--MAKING UP SAILS.
In making up a course, stretch the head of the sail well taut along
the deck or loft; bring up to the head the belly-band, then the foot,
leaving the clew-blocks out at each end; also the bowline-bridles, and
roll taut up; pass the head-earing round the sail close inside the
bolt-rope, and put a stop of good spun-yarn to every seam. The reef
earings are made up in the sail.
In making up a topsail, stretch the head of the sail taut along; bring
the second reef up to the head, and lay all the points and earings
snugly along; then bring up the belly-band, and then the foot. The
clew-blocks, bowline-bridles, reef-tackles, and toggles or span,
should be left out, so that when the sail is sent aloft for bending,
the sheets can be rove, reef-tackles and bowlines toggled, without
loosing the sail, which will be found of great advantage when blowing
fresh. Roll well up, stop with spun-yarn at each seam, and expend the
head-earings round the ends of the sail.
Topgallant-sails are made up with the clews out, and bowline-bridles,
(if wished,) but they are always bent to the yards on deck; so the
neater, they can be made up the better.
_Note._--The reef-earings of the topsails should be secured to the
cringles, before rolling up; bowline-hitch the end of the first
reef-earing to the head, second to the first, third to the second,
and fourth to the third reef cringles; as there is sometimes much
trouble in getting hold of an earing when it is not secured as above.
All spare sails should be _tallied_, before being stowed in the
sail-room, as it will prevent all mistakes; but if a sail is properly
stowed, and the _master_ and _sailmaker_ take a list when they are
stowing, there never can be any difficulty in finding what may be
wanted.
Royals are made up the same as topgallant-sails.
=254.=--TO MAKE UP A TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL.
Stretch the sail taut along, and overhaul the downhaul through the
thimble and block, and bight it along the whole length of the leech.
Then roll up towards the inner leech, lay the sheets along the whole
length of the sail, roll up over all, and stop the sail well up with
spun-yarn or foxes. The earings are expended round the head of the sail
when bent to the yard.
_Note._--The topgallant studding-sail is also made up in the same
manner.
=255.=--FURLING FORE AND AFT SAILS, (WITH CLOTHS OR COVERS.)
The jib is hauled close down, and the sea-gasket passed round it. The
cloth is then placed over, and the stops tied. Eyelet-holes are made in
each edge for the stops. Jib-sheets and halliards stopped, and hauled
taut.
_Furling Spanker._--It is also furled best with a cover; it can be
furled in the two after cloths, the same as a jib, but it never looks
so well, takes time, and in most instances has to be loosed two or
three times before it gives satisfaction.
In furling with a cover, the sail is brailed close up, and the cover
stopped round, commencing from the end of the gaff, and working in to
the mast, and down on deck.
Trysails are stowed in the same manner as spankers.
The fore-topmast staysail is stowed as a jib, in the netting.[24]
_Note._--Stowing fore and aft sails requires more handy-work than
seamanship, the principal thing being to furl them in the smallest
compass, and in the after cloths, as it brings the seams up and down.
I have seen staysails admired for their neatness from the deck,
when the greater part of the sails were lying loose in the top.
This should be avoided as much as possible, as something should be
sacrificed in appearance, to preserve a sail from injury. Taking a
little trouble will get all the sail in the skin; and although it may
be larger, it can be made to look neat.
Jibs require more pains taken in stowing, than any of the other fore
and aft sails. There is no necessity of stowing them in their own
cloths, when furling cloths are allowed. (_See allowance_).
[24] Canvass bottoms are used instead of nettings, for staysails.
=256.=--REEFING COURSES TO JACKSTAYS.
When this plan is adopted there is only one point requisite, and that
on the fore side of the sail; some use two, but it is unnecessary.
Reeve the point through the eyelet-hole from the after side, the points
being made with eyes. Through the eyes reeve a small sized rope; this
is called the jack-line. Between every four eyelet-holes, stitch the
rope well to the sail, on each yard-arm, leaving three points out.
Take a piece of small rope, splice one end to the eyelet-hole in the
head of the sail, reeve it through that left in the reef, and splice
the other end into the same eyelet hole in the head, leaving about two
feet slack. This will be found of much use in gathering the sail up for
reefing--it is called a _grab-rope_, or _reef-line_.
=257.=--REEF-EARINGS
Are fitted the same as the head--an eyelet-hole is worked below the
cringle, large enough to take the earing; through this put the earing,
reeve the end through the long-eye, and haul it taut through. The
earings are sometimes put in the cringles, but the cringle cannot be
so well hauled up on the yard, and consequently will not be so well
secured for carrying sail; and it not only puts more strain on the
yard-arm points, but also injures the sail. They are also fitted on the
bight, and passed on both ends; one end for the outer turns, and the
other the inner turns.
_To pass a reef-earing._--For the first, second, and third reef,
take it from the sail, on the foreside of the yard, round the cleat
for the purpose, through the cringle, round the yard and through the
cringle, until three or four outer turns are passed; then reeve the
bight through the cringle from aft forward--take a round turn in the
cringle; then take the end from the latter under the yard up abaft
over, and through the bight; then back over the yard on the foreside,
through the cringle, from underneath the yard; slew the cringle well
up, and leech off the sail, and pass sufficient turns to secure;
then expend the end round the yard and half-hitch round all, or a
clove-hitch to the lift.
A close reef-earing is passed the same way, but hauled out on the
after side of the yard. Being hauled out abaft, it covers all the
other reefs, and there being so much sail on the fore-side, it would
never keep up.
In passing the outer turns for each reef, take two for the first;
three for the second and third, and four for the fourth. For the
inner turns, expend the earing, except your earings are fitted on the
bight.
=258.=-BENDING STUDDING-SAILS.
All are bent to the yard alike, and the same precautions used as in
other sails, keeping the rope next the yard. The earings are rove
through the holes in the yard-arms, and cringle in the head of the
sails; two or three outer turns are taken, and the earing nearly
expended in inner turns, then frap the outer turns together with the
end, and half-hitch, if the sail is laced to the yard--the lacing is
spliced into one eyelet-hole, rove through the other, and passed round
the yard.
They are sometimes bent by half-hitching the lacing, which plan keeps
the sail up, and much closer to the yard. A round turn is also used, by
being passed round the yard-arm and through the eyelet-hole twice, and
from the latter through the next eyelet-hole, round the yard. They are
then made up--the topmast studding-sail to the foremost shrouds of fore
and main rigging; topgallant, in foremost part of the topmast rigging;
and lower, on the booms. The topmast studding-sail is also sometimes
kept on the booms, and tarpaulin covers fitted for them.
These sails are sometimes bent with long rope-bands, and unbent when
taken in and stowed away, if dry.
[Illustration]
In making up a topmast studding-sail, when bent, overhaul the downhaul
the length of the luff or outer leech; then take the foot up to the
yard, and place the tack block out. Bight the downhaul along the yard,
also the sheets; roll the sail snugly up, and stop it with yarns.
Lower studding-sails are bent and made up in the same manner as topmast
studding-sails, with the sheet in.
I have seen these sails when placed in the rigging ready for setting,
with the sheets and downhaul left out and stopped to the yards; the
tack stopped from the lower yard, up and down the foremost shroud and
bent to the sail. This was done with the idea that the sail could be
set much quicker; but it was found that the sail on the opposite side
(which was set in the general way), was set with less trouble, and in
less time. There will be plenty of time to bend the tack and halliards
(when the order is given to get ready), while getting burtons up,
jiggers on topsail-lift, weather-braces taut, and rigging the booms out.
_Note._--The topgallant studding-sail tack is generally kept bent,
and slacked when bracing the yards up.
It has frequently occurred to me, when I have heard the order from
the quarter-deck, in the event of setting studding-sails, “to rig out
and hoist away;” how can it be possible to rig out the fore-topmast
studding-sail booms, when probably there may be fifty men clapped on
the lower studding-sail halliards, hauling the booms in, and seldom
more than six or eight men at the most, on the in-and-out jigger,
trying to get the boom out.
I should recommend to rig-out and secure first, then hoist away.
=259.=--PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE WHARF AND HAULING OUT IN THE
STREAM.
_To haul off and moor ship._--Before hauling off, all the spare
spars should be hoisted in and secured, boat’s chocks placed,
all the stores, provisions, and water got on board; it would be
also well to see that there is a sufficient quantity of brooms,
bath-brick for cleaning bright-work, lime and size for whitewash,
and everything that is allowed and requisite for the ship. The
complement of men from the receiving ship should be got on board,
and the boats provided with crews, oars, and sails. When everything
necessary is completed, make preparations for hauling off. Get up
kedges and hawsers ready for instant service; have the ends of the
hawsers pointed up each hatchway, ready for handing out if wanted.
Run out a kedge, and drop it where the first, or weather-anchor is
to be planted; have lines from the ship to the shore--single the
fasts--hang over fenders and outriggers--man the hawser, cast off the
fasts, and warp off; checking her as may be necessary by the lines.
When warped out to the kedge, run it up to the bows, and let go the
weather anchor; veer as fast as she will take it, assisting her in
going astern by the mizen-topsail, if necessary. If to shoot her to
either side, use the helm, jib, or spanker, and in case there is no
wind, use kedges and hawsers.
When a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and let go the second
anchor--furl the mizen-topsail--bring-to on the weather cable, and
heave in to the moorings; moor a little taut, to allow for veering.
If a hemp-cable, clap on the service, and veer to the hawse-hole.
=260.=--CARRYING OUT AN ANCHOR WITH A BOAT.
Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat by good stoppers, and have the
buoy and buoy-rope attached to it; pass the end of the cable or hawser
out through the hawse-hole, and coil away enough of it in the bows
of the boat, to reach the bottom. Now capsize the coil in the stern
sheets, and then the end will be uppermost; bend on to the anchor.
There should also be a sufficient length of the hawser coiled away in
the boat to reach the place destined for the anchor. When in the right
place, heave over the buoy, and see that the buoy-rope is clear--stand
clear of the cable, and slip the stoppers. In case of making a
guess-warp, _vice versa_.
=261.=--MARKING THE LEAD-LINE.
At two fathoms, two strips of leather; at three fathoms, three strips
of leather; at five fathoms, a white rag; at seven fathoms, a red rag;
at ten fathoms, a piece of leather with a hole in it; at thirteen, the
same as three; at fifteen, the same as five; at seventeen, the same as
seven; at twenty fathoms, two knots.
Deep-sea lead-lines are marked the same, as far as twenty fathoms, then
add one knot for every ten fathoms, and a strip of leather for every
five fathoms.
[Illustration]
=262.=--HEAVING THE LEAD
A hole is made in the upper part of the lead, a piece of rope rove
through it, and both ends spliced together;[25] an eye is spliced in
the end of the line, put through this strap, the lead shoved through
the bight, and hauled taut.
[Illustration]
Breast ropes are fitted in the chains, for the men to lean against when
heaving the lead. They are made as sword-mats, tapered at each end, and
secured to two shrouds, with seizings passed round them, and through
the eyes in each.
Heaving the lead is generally performed by a man who stands in the
main chains to windward. Having the line all ready to run out, without
interruption, he holds it at a distance of nearly a fathom from the
lead, and having swung it backwards and forwards three or four times,
in order to acquire a greater velocity with the swing, he then swings
it over his head, and thence as far forward as is necessary; so that
by the lead sinking whilst the ship advances, the line may be almost
perpendicular when it reaches the bottom. The person sounding then
proclaims the depth of water, in a kind of _singing manner_. Thus:
if the mark of five fathoms is close to the surface of the water, he
_sings out_, “by the mark 5!” and, as there are no marks at 4, 6, 8,
&c., he estimates those numbers, and sings, “by the deep 4!” &c. If
he considers it to be a quarter, or a half, more than any particular
number, he sings out, “and a quarter 5!” “and a half 4!” &c. If he
conceives the depth to be three quarters more than a particular number,
he calls it a quarter less than the next; thus, at four fathoms and
three-quarters, he calls, “a quarter less 5!” and so on, according to
the depth of the water.
[25] A leather becket may be used for light leads, instead of a rope
strap.
=263.=--MARKING A LOG-LINE.
[Illustration]
Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in a white rag; then
at every forty-seven feet and six-tenths, mark the line as follows,
viz.: at one, one leather; at two, two knots; at three, three knots;
and also having a mark at every half-knot. The glasses should be proved
with a good watch, having a second-hand.
The principle of the log-line is, that a knot is the same part of a
sea-mile, that half-a-minute is of an hour; therefore the length of a
knot should be one-hundred-and-twentieth the length of a sea mile, or
fifty-one feet; but as it is more convenient to have the knot divided
into eight parts, of six feet each, the proportional reduction is
necessary in the glass. Therefore as 51 feet : 30 seconds :: 48 feet :
28, 4.17 seconds; but as the fraction can be more easily allowed in the
line than the glass, another proportion is necessary, viz., as 28, 4.17
seconds : 48 feet :: 28 seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a knot.
_Note._--Log-lines are kept on reels for the purpose.
The length of the stray-line is regulated by the size of the ship.
=264.=--GETTING READY FOR SEA.
Observe and note the exact line of flotation. See that all the rigging
is properly up, alow and aloft. See that the preventer-gear is on, as
well as breast-ropes for leadsmen, and leads and lines in the chains.
If requisite, grease the masts, jib and staysail-stays, lifts and
trusses, and reef-pendants--sheet-anchor stowed--guns secured--boats
hoisted in and secured. Care should be taken that the harness-casks are
lashed--chests and tables properly cleated, and binnacles secured. Let
the armorer examine the slip-stoppers, and see that they are oiled,
and in proper condition--get the swinging-booms fore and aft--awnings
below, and awning ridge-ropes down--down jack-staff--see that the
tiller-ropes are all clear, and that the tiller moves freely; also that
the relieving-tackles and spare tiller-ropes are at hand.
Cross topgallant yards, bend the gear; take the covers off the jibs,
staysail, spanker, and trysails, and coil every rope down clear, for
running--have the studding-sails stopped, ready for going aloft, and
the royal-halliards down on the weather side. Cat and fish overhauled
down. Timenoguys in their respective places. Life-buoys in order.
Accommodation-ladder unshipped and stowed away. Pendants and ladders
taken off the swinging-booms--head-cranes unshipped--chafing-gear on
its respective places. It would also be well to see that there is a
sufficiency of sand on board.
=265.=--CLEAR HAWSE.
[Illustration:
A Cross.
An Elbow.
A Round-turn.]
Call all hands to “clear hawse.” Lash a stout single-block to the
bowsprit, through which reeve the clear hawse-pendant; haul the launch
under the bows, or if there is too much sea on, or she is not out, send
a hand down in a bowline, and hook the pendant to the riding-cable,
below the turn; bouse them up clear of the water, after which pass a
stout lashing round both cables.
If there should be a heavy sea on, or the wind flawey and variable, it
would be well to pass the end of a hawser out of the hawse-hole, and
hitch it to the cable,[26] to relieve the lashing. Reeve ropes through
blocks on each side of the bowsprit end, for bow-lines, and pass them
in at the hawse-hole, so as to take out an elbow; for instance--suppose
the starboard was the clearing cable, take the larboard bow-line down
under the cable, up into the starboard hawse-hole, and the starboard
one over to the larboard side of the cable; then follow the lead of the
larboard bow-line, bend on several fathoms inside, and stop along to
the hawse-hole; draw the splice, or unshackle, bend on the hawse-rope,
off-stoppers, and run out; hang the bights to the bowsprit (if
hemp-cable), with slip-ropes, and send in the bow-lines again, the same
way as before. When the end is out, “cast off,” dip it fair, and bend
on again to the cable; rouse in, slack down the slip-ropes, and splice
or shackle the cable; haul it taut with a deck-tackle, and bitt, and
stopper as before. Cast off the hawser, unlash the cable, unreeve the
clear hawse-pendant, unlash the block from the bowsprit end, and clear
up the deck.
_Note._--If there is a round turn and an elbow in the hawse after
rousing the cable, repeat the operation as before; it is always well
to prevent confusion, by taking out one elbow at a time. A cross, is
when the cables lay across each other, or when the ship has _swung
foul once_; an elbow is two crosses, and a round turn is three
crosses; a round turn and elbow is five crosses. It can readily be
seen thus, in clearing hawse with a round turn, a cross will be left
in the cables.
The anchor is fouled in the very operation of _letting it go_; the
weight of the chain-cable causing the running out part to fall over
and foul the stock. To avoid this, some officers pursue the practice
of “letting go” the anchor with the cable _bitted_, which plan is
strongly recommended.
From the weight of the chain-cable, compared with that of the hempen,
the former is less liable than the latter to foul the anchor; but no
speculation should induce an officer to depart from that practice
which can alone ensure a clear anchor.
[26] See clear hawse-shackle and pendant.
=266.=--WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH THE LAUNCH.
This may be done by under-running, when the ship has slipped the cable,
or weighing by the buoy-rope, when the anchor is lying in too shoal
water for the ship to be hove up to it.
Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, have strong tackles with a
jigger also, and some good rope for stoppers. Get the end of the cable
over the roller; pass a strap round it, to which hook the double block
of the tackle, and the single one to a bolt in the bows; man the fall,
and as the cable comes in, French-flake it along the thwarts; when the
tackle comes two blocks, “stopper and fleet;” when the cable is “up
and down,” clap the jigger on the fall of the tackle, and heave the
boat’s stern well down in the water, and stopper securely. Send all the
men in the bows of the boat; jump the boat and break the anchor out of
the ground; then man the fall again, off stopper, and heave up; when
the ring of the anchor is above water, pass a short ring-stopper, haul
the buoy on board, and bring the boat to the ship; when alongside,
hook the cat, and cat the anchor. Get the end of the cable unclinched,
passed into the hawse, and the remainder hauled out of the launch. (If
chain-cable, unshackle.)
=267.=--WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH A BUOY-ROPE.
[Illustration]
Get the buoy-rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, and weigh the
anchor as before. When it is secured, man the capstan, heave the launch
in under the bows, and cat the anchor.
Anchors are generally weighed with the buoy-rope when the cable has
parted, and the end cannot be grappled; when this is the case, the
anchor may be weighed with launch, brought under the bows and catted,
and the cable unclinched and hove in; or the ship might be warped over
the buoy, and the cat-fall taken to the buoy-rope.
=268.=--BOATING AN ANCHOR.
[Illustration]
Place the flukes perpendicularly over the stern, and the stock
a-thwart-ships in the stem sheets, resting horizontally upon a loose
thwart, placed there previously for the purpose, and steady all by one
or two lashings.
In letting go, nothing more is required than to cant the anchor over
the quarter, by means of the thwart, taking care previously that the
buoy, buoy-rope, and cable, be perfectly clear.
Light anchors should be boated contrary to this, _i. e._, flukes
inboard, and stock out.
=269.=--TAKING IN A LAUNCH.
Brace and secure the yards the same as when getting up the anchors, and
also rig the same purchases; place the chocks, pass everything out of
the launch, and hook the purchases to spans; have a few hands in the
boat to keep her clear of the ship’s side. Man the yard tackle falls;
have some hands to take in the slack of the stay fall; “walk away;”
when the boat leaves the water, take out the plug. When high enough to
clear the waist anchor stock, haul over on the main stay, easing away
the fore and main yards; when the stem is over the deck, haul over the
fore stay, lower, and place her in the chocks.
The other boats may be got on board by the same purchases. The launch
is stowed on the larboard side; the first cutter on the starboard
side;[27] the second cutter, inside the launch, and the third cutter
inside the first. When all are in, unrig the purchases, square the
yards, and set up the gripes.
The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to their davits, and secured
to them by stoppers, and the gripes set up.
[27] _i. e._, if the ship be a frigate or larger. Single-deck ships
have but one nest of boats.
=270.=--TAKING IN BOATS BOTH SIDES AT ONCE.
The yards are kept square, and secured on both sides by the lifts,
burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the winding and stay tackles for the
heaviest boats, and the yard tackles for the lightest ones; the topsail
halliards forward, and the main pendant tackle aft, acting as stays
to bring them on board. It may be necessary to come up the forward
backstays, as they would be likely to interfere with the bows of the
boats; after which proceed as before.
_Taking in a boat at sea._--Back the main-topsail, get the boat to
leeward, secure the lower yards as before directed, and hoist her in.
The boat coming in to leeward, tackles will be necessary to get her
to windward sufficiently to lower away.
When before the wind, a boat might be got in by securing the yards
as before, and taking a hawser from aft to the stern of the boat, to
keep her from sending or pitching forward when leaving the water, and
thereby endangering the yards.
_Note._--Some of our large vessels have two sets of yard and stay
tackles, for the purpose of taking in boats both sides at once; but
the above mentioned gear will answer all purposes in any case of
emergency, where the manœuvre is not considered as exercising.
[Illustration]