Transcriber’s Notes
Texts printed in italics, bold face or blackletter have been
transcribed between _underscores_, =equal signs= and ~tildes~
respectively. Small capitals have been transcribed as ALL CAPITALS.
[Illustration: U. S. Frigate UNITED STATES, under full sail.]
THE
KEDGE-ANCHOR;
OR,
YOUNG SAILORS’ ASSISTANT.
APPERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OF MODERN SEAMANSHIP,
RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING, BLOCKS, PURCHASES, RUNNING-RIGGING,
AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS, APPLICABLE
TO SHIPS OF WAR AND OTHERS.
~Illustrated with Seventy Engravings.~
ALSO,
TABLES OF RIGGING, SPARS, SAILS, BLOCKS, CANVASS, CORDAGE, CHAIN AND
HEMP CABLES, HAWSERS, &c., &c., RELATIVE TO EVERY CLASS OF VESSELS.
BY WILLIAM BRADY, SAILING MASTER, U. S. N.
SIXTH EDITION.
IMPROVED AND ENLARGED, WITH ADDITIONAL MATTER, PLATES, AND TABLES.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.
SOLD AT R. L. SHAW’S NAUTICAL STORE, NO. 222 WATER ST., AND THE
PRINCIPAL NAUTICAL AND STATIONERS’ STORES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.
1852.
Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847.
BY WILLIAM BRADY,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Southern District
of New York
DEDICATED
TO THE
UNITED STATES’ NAVY
AND
MERCHANT SERVICE.
PREFACE.
In offering the following work to the public, the author deems no
apology necessary, as it was written for the use of the Naval and
Merchant Service of the United States, as a ready means of introducing
Young Sailors to the theory of that art by which they must expect
to advance in the profession they have chosen. He flatters himself,
however, that it will be found useful to many old and experienced
seamen, as well as to those who have just entered the sailors’ life,
and particularly to those destined for the Navy. Should it fall into
the hands of the learned, they will bear in mind that he is better
versed with the marlinespike than the pen, and that it was composed in
the hours of relaxation from official duties. He therefore hopes that
it may be received for that which it is intended to be, A KEDGE-ANCHOR,
for the youthful sailor. The work has been submitted to the inspection
of a number of experienced officers, both in the Navy and Merchant
Service, who have given it their decided approbation;--some of whose
names are appended to the work. With these few remarks, he submits it
to a discerning public, to stand or fall on its own merits.
[Illustration: W.M. Brady, Master
“U.S.N.”]
RECOMMENDATIONS.
I have examined the manuscript of Mr. Brady and approve of it, as
a very useful Book for young officers and others, in the Naval and
Merchant service.
JOHN GALLAGHER, _Captain U. S. Navy_.
I fully concur in the above.
E. PECK, _Commander U. S. Navy_.
I have examined the within treatise on Seamanship, and other
miscellaneous matter appertaining to ships and vessels of war (written
by William Brady, Master U. S. Navy). It affords me much pleasure to
recommend the same to the junior officers of the Navy, and others who
may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship.
W. C. WETMORE, _Commander U. S. Navy_.
Examined and approved as a work that will be useful to the Service.
J. D. L. SAUNDERS, _Commander U. S. Navy_.
J. MATTISON, _Commander U. S. Navy_.
This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well calculated to be useful
to the Service.
JOSHUA R. SANDS, _Commander U. S. Navy_.
I have closely examined the within work, and think it well calculated
for the instruction of young officers and others in the Navy.
JAMES RENSHAW, _Captain U. S. Navy_.
I fully concur in the above.
FRANCIS O. ELLISON, _Master U. S. Navy_.
I have carefully examined the within work on Seamanship, and think it
one well calculated for the instruction of young officers, and others.
C. G. HUNTER, _Lieutenant U. S. Navy_.
We cheerfully recommend this work of William Brady, S. Master U. S.
Navy, to the maritime community, and think it well calculated for the
instruction of all who may be disposed to learn the profession of
Seamanship.
ISAAC McKEEVER, Captain U. S. Navy.
JAMES McINTOSH, Commander U. S. Navy.
WILLIAM L. HUDSON, Commander U. S. Navy.
HENRY EAGLE, Commander U. S. Navy.
A. G. GORDON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
CADWALDER RINGGOLD, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
WILLIAM F. LYNCH, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
HENRY W. MORRIS, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
FRANCIS B. ELLISON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
JAMES H. ROWAN, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
JOHN COLHOUN, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
T. TURNER, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
T. A. HUNT, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
HENRY MOORE, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
JOHN J. GLASSON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
CHARLES HEYWOOD, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
CHARLES S. BOGGS, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
ALEXANDER GIBSON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
ALEXANDER M. PENNOCK, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
MONTGOMERY HUNT, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
FRANCIS HAGGERTY, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
J. R. McMULLANY, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
CAPT. HENRY D. HUNTER, Commanding U. S. Rev. Steamer Polk.
JOHN McGOWAN, 1st Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine.
WILLIAM H. BROWN, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine.
JOSEPH C. NOYES, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine.
CAPT. E. RICHARDSON, President American Seamen Friend Society.
CAPT. AUGUSTUS PROAL, Reviewer of the Work.
CAPT. SAMUEL YEATON, Commanding Packet ship Oxford.
CAPT. D. G. BAILEY, Commanding Packet ship Yorkshire.
CAPT. GEORGE B. CORNISH, Commanding Packet ship Sheridan.
CAPT. E. G. FURBER, Commanding Packet ship Europe.
CAPT. A. B. LOWBER, Commanding Packet ship Montezuma.
CAPT. J. A. WOTTEN, Commanding Packet ship Admiral.
CAPT. JOSEPH HAMILTON, Commanding Packet ship So. Carolina.
CAPT. CHARLES R. GRIFFITH, Commanding Ship Southport.
CAPT. JAMES RENNE, Commanding Ship Gondola.
CAPT. IRA BURSLEY, Commanding Ship Hottenger.
CAPT. GEORGE W. HOWE, Commanding Packet ship Bavaria.
[Illustration: United States’ Ship-of-the-Line OHIO.]
CONTENTS.
PART I.
Number. Page.
1. To knot a Rope-Yarn, 21
2. To make a Fox, 21
3. To make a Spanish Fox, 21
4. To make a Knittle, 22
5. Overhanded Knot, 22
6. Figure of Eight-Knot, 22
7. Two Half-Hitches, 22
8. Reef or Square Knot, 22
9. A Bowline Knot, 22
10. Bowline on the Bight, 23
11. A Running Bowline, 23
12. A Timber-Hitch, 23
13. A Fisherman’s Bend, 23
14. A Rolling Bend, 23
15. A Carrick Bend, 23
16. A Cat’s-Paw, 24
17. A Sheet or Becket Bend, 24
18. A Black-Wall Hitch, 24
19. A Rolling Hitch, 25
20. A Salvagee Strap, 25
21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard, 25
22. A Short Splice, 25
23. A Long Splice, 26
24. An Eye Splice, 26
25. A Cut Splice, 27
26. A Flemish Eye, 27
27. An Artificial Eye, 27
28. To worm and serve a Rope, 27
29. To clap on a Throat and Quarter Seizing, 28
30. To make a Turk’s Head, 28
31. To Sheepshank a Rope or Backstay, 29
32. To put a Strand in a Rope, 29
33. To Wall and Crown, 29
34. To make a Mathew Walker, 29
35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot, 30
36. A Shroud-Knot, 30
37. A French Shroud Knot, 30
38. A single Diamond Knot, 30
39. A double Diamond Knot, 31
40. A Stopper Knot, 31
41. A Buoy-rope Knot, 31
42. A Common Sennit, 31
43. A Sea Gasket, 31
44. A Panch or Wrought Mat, 32
45. A Harbor Gasket or French Sennit, 32
46. Pointing a Rope, 32
47. To make a Grommet, 33
48. To pass a Rose-Lashing, 33
49. To weave a Sword Mat, 33
50. A Lashing Cleat, 34
51. A Shell, Pin and Sheave, 34
52. A Single, Double and Treble Block, 34
53. A Shoulder Block, 34
54. A Fiddle Block, 35
55. A Shoe Block, 35
56. A Sister Block, 35
57. A Dead-Eye, 35
58. A Heart, 36
59. A Belaying-pin Rack, 36
60. A Euphroe, 36
61. A Horn Cleat, 36
62. A B-Cleat, 36
63. A Strap for a Block, 36
64. A Tail Block, 37
65. A Purchase Block, 37
66. A Top Block, 37
67. A Cat Block, 38
68. A Snatch Block, 38
69. A Nun Buoy, 38
70. To bend a Buoy-Rope, 38
71. To Pudding the Ring of an Anchor, 39
72. A Jacob’s Ladder, 39
73. Can-Hooks, 40
74. Hogshead Slings, 40
75. Barrel Slings, 40
76. A Single Whip, 40
77. A Gun-Tackle Purchase, 41
78. A Luff-Tackle Purchase, 41
79. A Top Burton, 41
80. Whip and Runner, 41
81. Runner and Tackle, 41
82. A Twofold Purchase, 41
83. A Threefold Purchase, 42
84. Names of Ropes, 42
PART II.
85. Launching a Ship, 43
86. Cutting out Standing Rigging, 44
87. Cutting out Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging, 45
88. Cutting out Breast and Standing Back-stays, 45
89. Cutting out Catharpen Legs and Futtock Shrouds, 46
90. Cutting out Fore and Aft Stays, 46
91. Cutting out Lower Mast Head Pendants, 46
92. Cutting out Bobstays, 46
93. Cutting out Bowsprit Shrouds, 47
94. Cutting out Jib and Flying Jib Guys, 47
95. Cutting out Running Rigging, 47
96. Rigging Shears and taking in Masts and Bowsprit, 47
97. To take in the Mizen Mast, 50
98. To take in the Main and Foremast, 51
99. To take in the Bowsprit, 51
100. Gammoning the Bowsprit, 52
101. Fitting Rigging, 53
102. Fitting Mast-head Pendants, 54
103. Fitting Lower and Topmast Stays, 54
104. To Rig the Foremast, 55
105. Futtock Shrouds, 57
106. To Rig the Main and Mizen Mast, 58
107. To Rig the Bowsprit, 58
108. Getting Tops over (whole Tops,) 59
109. Getting Half-tops over, 60
110. Getting up Top-blocks, 61
111. Getting up Top-masts, 61
112. Getting the Cap into the Top, 62
113. Turning in Dead-eyes, 63
114. Getting Topmast Cross-trees over, 64
115. Placing Topmast Rigging, 65
116. To seize-in the Sister Blocks, 65
117. Backstays (Breast), 66
118. Standing After Backstays, 67
119. Main Topmast Stay, 67
120. Mizen Topmast Stay, 67
121. Getting the Topmast Caps on, 68
122. Mast-head Man-ropes, &c., &c., 68
123. Top-Tackle Pendants, 69
124. Preparing to Fid the Topmasts, 69
125. Rattling the Lower and Topmast Rigging, 70
126. Futtock Staves in Topmast Rigging, 71
127. To Rig the Jib-Boom, 71
128. Jib-Boom Martingale Stay, 72
129. Jib-Boom Guys, 72
130. Martingale Back-ropes, 73
131. Placing the Rigging on a Dolphin Striker, 73
132. Getting the Jib-Boom out, 73
133. Sending up Topgallant Masts, 74
134. Royal Rigging, 75
135. Short and Long Topgallant Mast Ropes, 76
136. To Rig the Flying Jib-Boom, 76
137. Spritsail Lifts, 77
138. Spritsail Braces, 77
139. Strapping Thimbles for Guys on Spritsail yard, 77
140. Crossing a Spritsail Yard, 78
141. Two Half-spritsail Yards, 78
142. Whiskers, 79
143. To get on board and rig Lower Yards, 79
144. Truss Straps, 80
145. Truss Pendants, 80
146. Quarter Blocks--Lower Yards, 80
147. Clew Garnet Blocks, 81
148. Lift Blocks--Lower Yards, 81
149. Foot Ropes and Stirrups, 81
150. Jack Stays--Bending and Reefing, 82
151. Brace Blocks--Lower Yards, 82
152. Placing the Rigging on Lower yards, 83
153. Getting up Jeer Blocks and Reeving Jeers, 84
154. Lower Lift Blocks, 84
155. Reeving Lower Lifts, 85
156. Main Braces, on Bumkin, &c., 85
157. Fore Braces, 85
158. Crossing the Lower Yards, 86
159. To get on board the Topsail Yards, 86
160. Rigging Topsail Yards, Fore and Main, 86
161. The Mizen-Topsail Yard, 88
162. Placing the Rigging on Topsail Yards, 88
163. Crossing the Topsail Yards, 88
164. Fitting Fly-Blocks for Topsail-Halliards, 89
165. Rigging Topgallant Yards, 90
166. Topgallant Braces, 91
167. Crossing Topgallant Yards, 92
168. Crossing Royal Yards, 93
169. Royal and Topgallant Gear, 94
170. Spanker-Boom, Trysail-Masts and Gaff, 94
171. Spanker-Boom Sheets and Guys in one, 95
172. Spanker-Boom Topping Lifts, 95
173. A Brig or Schooner’s Main-Boom, 96
174. Reeving Peak-Halliards, 96
175. Reeving Throat-Halliards, 96
176. To Fit Single Vangs, 96
177. To Fit Double Vangs, 97
178. Fitting Gaffs with Cheek or Brail-Blocks, 97
179. Getting up a Gaff, 97
180. Lower Studding-sail or Swinging-Booms, 98
181. Lower Studding-sail Outhaul-Blocks, &c., &c., 99
182. Topmast Studding-sail, Span-Blocks, Halliards, &c., 100
183. Topgallant Studding-sail Booms, 101
184. Getting Studding-sail Booms up, 101
185. Topgallant Studding-sail Gear, 102
186. Stowing Hold and Spirit Room (Ballast and Tanks), 103
187. Stowing Casks, 104
188. Stowage of Provisions and Naval Stores, 104
189. Stowing Chain Cables, 105
190. To get on Board and Stow the Hemp Cables, 105
191. Cat-head Stoppers, 106
192. Shank Painter, 106
193. Fish Davit Gear, 106
194. Getting on Board and Stowing Anchors, 108
195. Bending the Cables, 109
196. To Range and Stopper the Cables, 109
197. Stoppers, &c., 110
198. Compressors, or Combing Stoppers, 110
199. Putting on Nippers, 111
200. Iron Claw Stoppers, &c., 111
201. To Cut and Pass a Messenger, 112
202. Splicing Rope Cables, 112
203. To Ship and Unship a Rudder, 113
204. Getting the Guns on Board, 114
205. Fitting Shackle Breechings, 116
206. Triatic Stay, 116
207. Hoisting in Spars, 117
208. Stowing Booms, 117
PART III.
209. Fore Bowlines, 119
210. Fore Topsail Clewlines, 119
211. Topsail Buntlines, 120
212. Fore-Top Bowlines, 120
213. Main Buntlines, 120
214. Fore Buntlines, 121
215. Main Bowline, 121
216. Top-Gallant Sheets, 121
217. Top-Gallant Clewlines, 122
218. Fore Topgallant Bowlines, 122
219. Main Topgallant Bowlines, 122
220. Mizen Topgallant Bowlines, 122
221. Topgallant Buntlines, 123
222. Royal Bowlines, 123
223. Reef-Tackles, 123
224. Leech-lines, 124
225. Slab-lines, 124
226. Royal Clew-lines, 124
227. Fitting Tacks and Sheets, Bumkin, Gear, &c., 125
228. Yard-Tackle Tricing-lines, 125
229. To Reeve and Toggle Royal Halliards, 125
230. Fore-Storm Staysail Gear, 126
231. Main-Staysail Gear, 127
232. Mizen-Staysail Gear, 127
233. Topmast Staysails, &c. &c., 128
234. Setting up Rigging for a full due, 129
235. Staying Masts, 130
236. Blacking Rigging, 130
237. Stationing the Crew, 131
238. Stationing the Crew at Quarters, 132
239. Stationing the Crew for Mooring and Unmooring, 133
240. Loosing and Furling, 133
241. Stationing the Crew for Tacking and Veering, 134
242. Getting ready to Bend Sails, 134
243. Bending Sails, 135
244. Bending Small-sails, 136
245. Bending a Spanker, &c., 137
246. Fitting Sea-Gaskets, 138
247. Fitting Harbor-Gaskets, 138
248. Bunt-Gaskets, 139
249. Hammock Girtlines, 139
250. Stopping on Hammocks, 140
251. Furling or Stowing, the Bunt of a Sail, 140
252. Furling Courses, 140
253. Making up Sails, 141
254. To make up a Topmast Studding-sail, 142
255. Furling Fore and Aft Sails, with cloths or covers, 142
256. Reefing Courses, &c.,--Jackstays, 143
257. Reef Earings, 143
258. Bending Studding-sails, 144
259. Preparations for leaving the Wharf, and hauling out in the
Stream, 145
260. Carrying out an Anchor with a Boat, 146
261. Marking the Lead-line, 146
262. Heaving the Lead, 147
263. Marking a Log-line, 148
264. Getting ready for Sea, 148
265. Clear Hawse, 149
266. Weighing an Anchor with the Launch, 150
267. Weighing an Anchor with a Buoy Rope, 151
268. Boating an Anchor, 152
269. Taking in a Launch, 152
270. Taking in Boats both sides at once, 153
PART IV.
271. Getting under-weigh, 154
272. When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to part, 155
273. To get under-weigh, and stand before the Wind, 156
274. To get under-weigh and back a-stern to avoid danger, 157
275. Getting under-weigh--a Shoal on each Beam, 157
276. Getting under-weigh in a Narrow Channel, 158
277. Head to Wind--cast on Larboard Tack, 159
278. Windward Tide--get under-weigh and stand before the wind, 159
279. To get under-weigh, and stand out on a wind, 160
280. Riding head to Tide--wind on the Starboard Quarter, get
under-weigh on the Starboard Tack, 161
281. Getting under-weigh--wind across the Tide, 161
282. To back and fill in a Tideway, 162
283. Driving before the Wind, 162
284. Driving broadside-to, 163
285. Securing the Ship for Sea, 163
286. Stowing the Anchors for Sea, 163
287. Setting Topgallant sails--blowing fresh, 164
288. Setting Courses, 164
289. Setting the Spanker, 165
290. Setting the Jib, 165
291. Setting Lower Studding-sails, 166
292. Shifting a Course at Sea, 166
293. Taking in a Course in a Gale of Wind, 167
294. Taking in a Topsail in a Gale of Wind, 167
295. Taking in a Topgallant Sail, 168
296. Taking in a Spanker, 168
297. Setting a Close-reefed Topsail, 168
298. A Close-reefed Topsail Splits, 168
299. A Jib Splits, 169
300. Wearing a Ship under a Close-reefed Main-Topsail, and
Storm-staysail, 169
301. Wearing under a Main-sail, 170
302. Wearing under Bare Poles, 170
303. Cutting away the Masts, 170
304. Laying-to under Lower Stay-sails--Wear Ship, 170
PART V.
305. Precautions for Scudding, 171
306. Scudding--a Ship Broaches-to, 172
307. Scudding--brought by the Lee, 172
308. Heaving-to, 173
309. Taking in a Lower Studding-sail--blowing fresh, 173
310. To unbend a Topsail in a gale of wind, 174
311. Securing in a Gale, 174
312. Preparations for a Hurricane at Sea, 175
313. Preparations for a Hurricane, at Anchor, and Notes on
Barometer, 175
314. The Foremast is carried away, 178
315. To Rig a Jury Mast, 178
316. Accidents to Tiller in the event of losing a Mast, 178
317. The Mainmast is carried away, 179
318. The Bowsprit is carried away, 179
319. A Topmast is carried away, 179
320. The Jib-Boom is carried away, 179
321. The Foremast is sprung near the Hounds, or Bibbs, 180
322. The Foremast and Bowsprit are carried away, 180
323. The Bowsprit is Sprung, 180
324. A Topmast is Sprung near the Lower Cap, 181
325. To send aloft a Topmast, and a heavy Sea on, 181
326. The Gammoning carried away, 181
327. A Lower Cap splits, 181
328. The Trestle-trees are Sprung, 182
329. A Lower Yard is carried away in the Slings, 182
330. A Topsail Yard is carried away, 182
331. The Ship leaks faster than the Pumps can free her, 183
332. The Pumps are choked, 183
333. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a Gale, 183
334. To throw a Lower-deck Gun overboard, 184
PART VI.
335. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and Courses, 185
336. The Rudder is carried away--to fit another, 185
337. A Ship on fire at Sea, 186
338. A Ship on her beam ends, 187
339. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a Squall, 187
340. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore, 187
341. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails and Courses, 188
342. On a wind under whole Topsails--part the weather Main Topsail
brace, 188
343. The Jib Downhaul parts, 188
344. To Chase, 188
345. To Chase to Windward, 189
346. Observations for a Ship to Windward that is chased, 189
347. To Chase to Leeward, 190
348. To Windward of an enemy within pistol-shot--the weather main
rigging is shot away, both ships with main Topsails to the
mast, 190
349. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set--bring by under
double-reefed Topsails, 191
350. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set--bring to on the other
Tack, under double-reefed Topsails, 191
351. How to get the Anchor off the Bows, 191
352. Anchor head to wind, wind free, 192
353. To Anchor on a Lee Shore, 192
354. Scudding under a Foresail--to come to an Anchor, 193
355. To make a Flying moor, 193
356. To Moor with a long scope of chain, 194
357. Blowing Fresh--in Port, 194
358. Send down Lower Yards, 194
359. To House Topmasts, 195
360. To back a Bower by a Stream, 195
361. To Sweep for an Anchor, 195
362. Preparations for leaving Harbor, 196
363. Weighing Anchor in a head Sea, 196
364. Casting or Cutting the Cable, 196
365. Clinching Cables, 197
366. Fitting Buoy-Ropes, 197
367. Jib-Halliards, with a Whip, 197
368. Jib-Sheets, double, 198
369. Wrecked in a Gale, 198
370. Setting up Rigging at Sea, 199
371. Slacking the Jib-stay in bad weather, 200
372. Stopping out Top-Gallant Yard Ropes, 200
373. Preventer Braces, 200
374. Keeping a Clear Anchor, 201
375. Anchor turning in the ground, 201
376. To tend to a weather Tide, 201
377. A Man overboard (at sea), 202
378. Jib and Staysail Halliard Blocks at Mast-head, 203
379. To keep the Hawse clear when Moored, 203
380. To tend to Windward--single Anchor, 203
381. To tend to Leeward, 203
382. To Back Ship at Anchor, 204
383. To break the Shear, 204
384. On Getting to Sea, 204
385. On Fire Regulations in the Merchant Service, 205
386. Station Bill for fire in the Merchant Service, 207
387. Taking to the Boats, 208
388. Losing a Rudder at a Critical Moment, &c., 209
389. Steamers getting aground, 209
390. The duty of remaining by a damaged Vessel, 210
PART VII.
391. On Squaring Yards, 213
392. Up Topgallant Masts and Yards--the Mast being on deck, 214
393. Down Topgallant Masts and Yards, 215
394. Crossing Topgallant and Royal Yards, and loosing Sails, 216
395. Top-Mast carried away, 217
396. Clearing the Wreck of a Topmast, 218
397. Carrying away a Jib-Boom, 218
398. To fish a Lower Yard in the Shortest Time, 218
399. Expectation of losing a Lower Mast, 219
400. Lying-to in a Gale, after the loss of Masts, 219
401. Spars to convert in case of need, 219
402. Getting aground, 220
403. The Ballast shifting at Sea, 221
404. Vessels Surprised on Opposite Tacks, 221
405. Meeting at Sea, 222
406. A Hint on Running too Long, 222
407. A Hint on Rounding-to in a Gale, 223
408. On Making your Port, 223
409. Laying off and on to enter a port, 223
410. To Anchor and Veer a long Scope of Cable, 224
411. Preparations--Going into Harbor, 224
412. Cautions at Night, (Lookouts), 224
413. Two Vessels in Collision, 225
414. Squalls, (Caution), 225
415. Water Spouts, (Caution,) 225
416. Pressure of Water at different depths, 226
417. On Stopping Leaks, 226
418. Examination of Chain Cables, 227
419. Minute Guns, 227
420. Hoisting on Board Money or Plate, 228
PART VIII.
421. Stowing Hammocks, 229
422. Cockbilling Yards, 230
423. Dressing Ship with Flags, 230
424. Keeping the Copper clean, 231
425. Furling from a Bowline, 232
426. High and Low Bunts, 233
427. To Clear Mast-heads, 233
428. Placing belaying-cleats in Tops, 234
429. Making Swabs, 234
430. Stowage of Swabs, 235
431. Junk, 235
432. Making Mats, and Chafing Gear, 235
433. Gaskets, 236
434. Scraping and Greasing Mats, 237
435. Manning Yards, 237
436. Man Ropes--(side), 238
437. Spare Dead-eyes, 238
438. Hide Rope, 239
439. Hawse-hole Windsail, 239
440. Fighting Ladders, 239
441. Hawse Bucklers, 239
442. Making-fast a Warp to a Vessel, 240
443. Fitting Quarter Boats’ Gripes, 240
444. Fitting Gigs’ Slings, 240
445. Scrubbing a Boat’s bottom on leaving Harbor, 241
446. Carrying Light Boats on Shore, 241
447. Miscellaneous Notes on Working Boats, 242
448. Duties of Boats’ Crews, 243
449. Boats going on Distant Service, 243
450. Boats under Sail, 244
451. Giving a rope to a Boat, 244
452. Crossing a Bar with Surf--in Boats, 245
453. Hauling up Boats, 246
454. Lowering Boats, 246
455. Turning up the Hands, 246
456. Inspection of Rigging, Morning and Evening, 247
457. Inspection of Stowed Anchors, at Sea, 247
458. Inspection of Boats at Sea, 248
459. Gammoning the Bowsprit, 248
460. Precaution in Reeving Running-rigging, 249
461. Topsail Tyes, 249
462. Precaution in Blacking Rigging, 250
463. Fore and Main Buntlines, 250
464. Topgallant Mast Ropes, 250
465. Futtock Shrouds, 251
466. Tops and Half-Tops, 251
467. Striking or Housing Topmasts, 251
468. Swaying up Topmasts, 252
469. Unmooring, 252
470. Reef-lines to the Topsails, 253
471. Reefing Courses, 253
472. Topgallant-Masts struck, 254
473. Hailing aloft, 254
474. Proportions for Cables (Hemp), 254
475. Proportions for Anchors, 254
476. What length is necessary to form a Clinch, 255
477. References to Sketch of Temporary Rudder, 255
478. To Splice an Old Cable to a new one, 255
479. Strip Ship, 256
480. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, Length of Spars, &c. 256
481. Thickness of Spars (Masts), 257
482. Yards, 257
483. Distance for Placing Lower Masts, 257
484. Rule for Placing Masts in a Ship, 257
485. Raising Shears on a Wharf, 258
486. To find the Tonnage of a Vessel by U. S. Measurement, 259
487. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts, 259
488. Mooring, 260
PART IX.
489. Preparations for Heaving-down, 261
490. A Derrick, 269
General Cautions, 270
PART X.
491. Explanation of Sea Terms, 273
PART XI.
492. A table showing the weight of Cables and Anchors, used in
ships and vessels of war, in the U. S. Navy, 290
493. A table showing the weight of Guns and Carriages, 291
494. A table showing the weight of Chain Cables, 292
495. A table showing how many fathoms make 112 pounds of
four-strand shroud-laid rope, 292
496. Weight of one foot of Bar Iron, 293
497. A Table showing the weight of one hundred fathoms cable-laid
rope, from two to twenty-six inches, 293
498. A Table showing the strength of hemp-cables, their weight,
size, and number of yarns in each, 294
499. A Table showing the strength of plain-laid rope, three
strand, 295
500. A Table showing the strength of chain cable, as tested in
fifteen fathom lengths, 296
501. A Table showing the strength of short round-linked Bobstay,
Bowsprit shroud, or crane-chain without studs, such as is
used for rigging, &c. 297
502. Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned state, 298
503. A Table of measures and weights of different substances, 298
504. A Table of weight of tarred Cordage, 299
505. A Table showing the comparative strength between Iron Chains
and Hemp Cables, and the size required agreeably to the
Tonnage, 299
506. A Table showing the test required of flax and cotton Canvass,
as to quality and strength, before being received for use, in
the U. S. Naval service, 300
507. Cordage Table, showing the weight of one fathom of rope, from
one to twenty-four inches, plain-laid three strands, &c. 301
508. A Table showing the length of 1st warp of Standing Rigging, 302
509. A Table of Foreign Ordnance, 303
510. A Table showing the quantity of provisions, slop-clothing,
and small stores, for two hundred men for four months, U. S.
Navy, 304
511. A Table showing the component parts of the Navy ration, 305
512. A Table for finding the distance of an object by two
bearings, and the distance between them, 308
513. Dimensions of masts and spars, of the U. S. ship Princeton, 309
514. A Table of the size of short-linked chain, when used as
rigging, 310
515. A Table showing the dimensions of the masts and yards, of
American, English, and French ships, 312
516. A Table showing the compliment of Officers and Crew, allowed
to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, 314
517. A Table of spars, &c., for all classes of vessels, 318
518. A Table showing the dimensions and quality of materials, used
in constructing tops, trestle-trees, cross-trees, and caps,
in U. S. Navy, 324
519. A Table showing the complement and quality of Boats to each
class vessel in U. S. Navy, 326
520. A Table showing the weight, size, length and quality, of
anchors, cables, &c., allowed to the different class vessels
in U. S. Navy, 328
521. A Table showing the size, quantity, quality, and number of
sails, allowed to each class vessel U. S. Navy, 332
522. A Table showing the quantity of canvass, rope, &c., allowed
for one suit of sails, for each class of vessel U. S. Navy, 336
523. A Table showing the length and size of standing and
running-rigging, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy,
with miscellaneous articles, 340
524. A Table showing the size, and description, of the different
named Blocks, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, 364
525. A Table showing the projective distances from the spar-deck
of U. S. Ship North Carolina, 384
526. A Table showing the weight of armament, stores, outfits and
provisions, of U. S. sloop of war Albany, 386
527. Recipe for blacking Ships’ standing-rigging, 389
528. Recipe for blacking guns, 389
529. Recipe for blacking hammock-cloths, yards, and bends, 389
530. Recipe for making Liquid Blacking, 390
531. Recipe for blacking guns, 2nd., 390
532. Recipe Composition for blacking guns, 390
533. Recipe for making Black Varnish, No. 1, 390
534. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths,
No. 1, 390
535. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No.
2, 391
536. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No.
3, 391
537. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No.
4, 391
538. Recipe for making Black Varnish, No. 2, 391
539. Recipe for making Solder for Copper, 391
540. Recipe for making Solder for Lead, 392
541. Recipe To make the best drying Oil, 392
542. Recipe for Black Stain, 392
543. Recipe for blacking Guns and Shot, 392
544. French Recipe for blacking Guns, 393
[Illustration: United States Razee or Frigate INDEPENDENCE, at Anchor.]
THE KEDGE-ANCHOR.
PART I.
_We shall first commence with knotting a rope-yarn._
=1.=--TO KNOT ROPE-YARNS.
Take the two ends of the yarns, and split them open about two inches
from the end; and if to make a smooth knot, you may scrape down a
little with a knife, so as to make the ends lay smooth; you then
crutch them together as you see in Plate No. 1. Take two opposite ends
(leaving the other two dormant), pass one of the ends _under_, and the
other _over_ the standing part of the yarn, connecting them together at
the same side you took them from at first; then jam your knot taut, and
see if it will stand test by stretching the yarn from knee to knee, and
hauling on it; if it stands without drawing, you may trim the ends, and
go on.
=2.=--TO MAKE A FOX.
Take two or three rope-yarns and make them fast to a belaying-pin;
stretch them out taut, and twist them together on your knee; then rub
it down smooth with a piece of old tarred parcelling. This is called
a Fox, and is used for many purposes, such as making gaskets, mats,
plats, temporary seizings, bending studding-sails, &c.
=3.=--TO MAKE A SPANISH FOX.
Take a single rope-yarn and make one end fast as before to a
belaying-pin, and untwist and twist it up again the contrary way, and
rub it smooth. This is used for small seizings, &c.
=4.=--TO MAKE A KNITTLE.
A Knittle is made of two or three rope-yarns laid up together by hand,
twisting them between the thumb and finger, and laying them up against
the twist of the yarn. They are used for many purposes on board a ship,
particularly for hammock clews.
=5.=--OVERHANDED KNOT.
To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of the rope over the
standing part and through the bight.
=6.=--FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOTS.
Take the end of your rope round the standing part, under its own part
and through the lower bight, and your knot is made.
=7.=--TWO HALF-HITCHES.
Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, and bring it up
through the bight--this is one half-hitch; two of these, one above the
other, completes it.
=8.=--REEF, OR SQUARE KNOT.
First make an overhanded knot round a yard, spar, or anything you
please; then bring the end being next to you over the left hand and
through the bight; haul both ends taut, and it is made.
=9.=--A BOWLINE KNOT.
Take the end of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part in
the left--lay the end over the standing part, then with your left hand
turn the bight of the standing part over the end part, so as to form
a cuckold’s neck on the standing part; then lead the end through the
standing part _above_, and stick it down through the cuckold’s neck,
and it will appear as in the Plate.
=10.=--BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT.
Take the bight of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part
in the other; throw a cuckold’s neck over the bight with the standing
parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the cuckold’s neck to
go under and over all parts; jam all taut, and it will appear as in the
Plate.
=11.=--A RUNNING BOWLINE.
Take the end of the rope round the standing part, through the bight,
and make a single bowline upon the running part, and the knot is made.
=12.=--A TIMBER HITCH.
Take the end of a rope round a spar; pass it under and over the
standing part then pass several turns round its own part and it is done.
=13.=--A FISHERMAN’S BEND.
With the end of a rope take two round turns round a spar, or through
the ring of a kedge-anchor; take one half hitch around the standing
parts, and under all parts of the turns; then one half hitch around the
standing part above all, and stop the end to the standing part; or you
can dispense with the last half hitch, and tuck the end under one of
the round turns, and it becomes a studding-sail bend.
=14.=--A ROLLING BEND.
A rolling bend is something similar to a fisherman’s bend. It is two
round turns round a spar as you see in the plate, two half hitches
around the standing part, and the end stopped back.--(_See Plate._)
=15.=--A CARRICK BEND.
This bend is more used in bending hawsers together than for any other
purpose. In forming this bend you will take the end of the hawser, and
form a bight, by laying the end part on the top of the standing part,
so as to form a cross; take the end of the other hawser, and reeve it
down through this bight, up and over this cross; then pass the end down
through the bight again on the opposite side, from the other end, for
one end must be on the top, and the other underneath, as you see in the
plate.
If both end parts come out at the top it will be a granny’s knot.
(_Remember this._)
=16.=--A CAT’S-PAW.
This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to hook the tackle to,
in setting up rigging; to form it, you first lay the end part of the
lanyard across the standing part, which will form a bight; then lay
hold of the bight with one hand on each side of it, breaking it down,
and turning it over _from you_ two or three times; clap both bights
together, and hook on to both parts.--(_See Plate._)
=17.=--A SHEET OR BECKET BEND.
Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or through
the becket of a block; then round both parts of the bight, or becket,
and take the end under its own part, as you see in the plate. It is
sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped back to the standing
part.
=18.=--A BLACK-WALL HITCH.
This is used with a lanyard, in setting up rigging, to hook a luff
tackle to, instead of a cat’s paw, where the end of the lanyard is not
long enough to form a paw; but a strap and toggle is preferable to both.
To make a black-wall over a hook, you form a bight, or rather a _kink_
with the end of the lanyard, having the end part underneath, and the
standing part on the top; stick the hook through the bight, keeping the
bight well up on the back of the hook (as you see in the plate), until
you set taut the tackle.
_Note._--You can learn it much better by practice than explanation.
[Illustration:
Knotting a r’pe Yarn.
Square or Reef Knot.
Two Half Hitches.
Overhaul Knot.
Figure of Eight Knot.
Bowline Knot.
Running Bowline.
Bowline on the bight.
Timber Hitch.
Fisherman’s Bend.
Rolling Bend.
Carrick Bend.
Cat’s Paw.
Sheet Bend.
A Black-wall Hitch.
Rolling Hitch.
Selvagee Strap.
A Pudding for a Mast.
To form a Short Splice.
To form an Eye Splice.
An Eye Splice.
A Short Splice.
A long Splice.
Artificial Eye.
Flemish Eye.
A Long Splice, 4-strand Rope.
Cut Splice.]
=19.=--A ROLLING HITCH.
With the end of a rope take a half-hitch around the standing part; then
take another through the same bight, jaming it in above the first hitch
and the upper part of the bight, then haul it taut, and dog your end
above the hitch, around the standing part, or you may take a half-hitch
around the standing part and stop the end back with a yarn.
=20.=--A SALVAGEE STRAP.
To make a salvagee strap, you may get a couple of spike nails, and
drive them into an old piece of plank, or whatever you can find
convenient to answer the purpose, or get two hooks, lash them to any
convenient place, as far apart as the length you intend to make the
strap; take the end of the ball of rope-yarns, and make it fast to one
of the spikes or hooks, then take it round the other one, and keep
passing the rope-yarn round and round in this manner, hauling every
turn taut as you pass it, until it is as stout as you wish it to be.
If it is to be a very large strap, marl it down with stout spun-yarn;
if of middling size, marl with two single rope-yarns; if a small strap,
a single rope-yarn.
=21.=--A PUDDING FOR A MAST OR YARD.
Take a piece of rope of the required length, and splice an eye in each
end; get it on a stretch, worm it, and then parcel it according to the
shape you want it. They are generally made as you see in the Plate,
large in the middle, tapering gradually toward the ends, and made flat
on the side that goes next the yard or mast. When you have got it the
size required, marl it down, commencing in the middle and marling both
ways until you come to the eye; if it is intended for a yard it is
generally covered with thick leather or green hide; if for a mast, it
is pointed over for neatness.
=22.=--A SHORT SPLICE.
To splice the two ends of a rope together, you first unlay the rope
to a sufficient length, then crutch them together as you see in the
plate; you must then lay hold of the three strands next to you in your
left hand, holding them solid around the other part until you stick
the three upper ends, or, if it is a large rope, you may stop the
ends with a yarn; then take the upper or middle end, pass it over the
first strand next to it, stick it underneath the second strand, and
haul it taut in the lay of the rope; turn the rope a little towards
you, and stick the second end as you did the first; the third in the
same manner, hauling them taut along the lay of the rope;--turn the
rope round, stick the other three ends in the same manner, and it will
appear as in the plate.
_Note_.--If you intend to serve over the ends, you need not stick
them but once; but if not you must stick them twice, and cross-whip
them across the strands so as to make them more secure. If the ends
are to be served, take a few of the underneath yarns, enough to fill
up the lay of the rope for worming, then scrape or trim the outside
ends, and marl them down ready for serving.
=23.=--A LONG SPLICE.
To make a long splice, unlay the ends of two ropes to a sufficient
length, crutch them together in the same manner as a short splice;
unlay one strand for a considerable length, and fill up the space which
it leaves with the opposite strand next to it; then turn the rope round
and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their
respective lays, unlay one and fill up with the other as before; then
cut off the long strands, and it will appear as in the Plate.
To complete this splice, you will split the strands equally in two,
then take the two opposite half strands and knot them together, so
as to fill up the vacant lay; then you stick the ends twice under
two strands with all six of the half strands, leaving the other six
neutral; then stretch the splice well before you cut the ends off, and
it is finished.
=24.=--EYE-SPLICE.
An eye-splice is made by opening the end of a rope, and laying the
strands at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, according
to the size of the eye-splice you intend to make; you then divide
your strands by putting one strand on the top and one underneath the
standing part, then take the middle strand, (having previously opened
the lay with a marlinespike,) and stick it under its respective strand,
as you see in the Plate. Your next end is taken over the first strand
and under the second; the third and last end is taken through the third
strand on the other side.
=25.=--A CUT SPLICE.
Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you intend to make the
splice or collar--lay the end of one rope on the standing part of the
other, and stick the end through between the strands, in the same
manner as an eye-splice, and it will appear as in the plate. This forms
a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for pendants, jib-guys,
breast-backstays, odd shrouds, &c.
=26.=--A FLEMISH EYE.
Unlay the end of a rope, open the strands and separate every yarn,
divide them in two halves, then take a piece of round wood the size
you intend to make the eye, and half-knot about one-half of the
inside yarns over the piece of wood; scrape the remainder down over
the others; marl, parcel, and serve, or if preferable, hitch it with
hambro-line. This makes a snug eye for the collars of stays. (_See
Plate._)
=27.=--AN ARTIFICIAL EYE.
Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand to a certain distance, and
form the eye by placing the two strands along the standing part of the
rope and stopping them fast to it; then take the odd strand and cross
it over the standing part, and lay it into the vacant place you took
it from at first; work around the eye, filling up the vacant strand
until it comes out at the crutch again, and lies under the other two
strands; the ends are tapered, scraped down, marled, and served over
with spun-yarn.
=28.=--TO WORM AND SERVE A ROPE.
Worming a rope, is to fill up the vacant space between the strands of
the rope with spun-yarn; this is done in order to strengthen it, and to
render the surface smooth and round for parceling.
Parceling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, cut in strips from
two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope; the strips
of canvass to be well tarred and rolled up in rolls before you commence
to lay it on the rope. The service is of spun-yarn, clapped on by a
wooden mallet such as you see in the plate, called a serving mallet;
it has a large score cut in the under part of it, so as to fay on the
rope, and a handle about a foot long, or according to the size of the
mallet. The service is always laid on against the lay of the rope; a
boy passes the ball of spun-yarn at some distance from the man that is
serving the rope, and passes it round as he turns the mallet; when the
required length of service is put on, the end is put under the three or
four last turns of the service and hauled taut.
_Note._--It has always been customary to put on parceling with the
lay of the rope in all cases; but rigging that you do not intend to
serve over, the parceling ought to be put on the contrary way.
=29.=--TO CLAP ON A THROAT AND QUARTER SEIZING.
Splice an eye in one end of the seizing, and take the other end round
both parts of the rope that the seizing is to be put on; then reeve it
through the eye, pass a couple of turns and heave them hand-taut; then
make a _marlinespike-hitch_ on the seizing, by taking a turn with the
seizing over the marlinespike, and laying the end over the standing
part; push the marlinespike down through, then under the standing part
and up through the bight again. Heave taut the two turns of the seizing
with the spike; pass the rest and heave them taut in the same manner,
making six, eight, or ten turns, according to the size of the rope;
then pass the end through the last turn, and pass the riding turns,
five, seven, or nine, always laying one less of the riding than of the
first turns; these should not be hove too taut--the end is now passed
up through the seizing, and two cross-turns taken between the two parts
of the rope, and round the seizing; take the end under the last turn
and heave it taut; make an overhanded knot on the end of the seizing,
and cut off close to the knot.
_Note._--When this is put on the end of a rope, and round the
standing part, it is called an end-seizing; if on the two parts below
the end, a middle or quarter-seizing. A throat-seizing is passed the
same way, but is not crossed with the end of the seizing.
=30.=--TO MAKE A TURK’S HEAD.
Turk’s heads are made on man-ropes, and sometimes on the foot-ropes
of jib-booms in place of an overhanded knot, as the Turk’s head is
much neater than the knot, and considered by some an ornament. It is
generally made of small white line. Take a round turn round the rope
you intend to make the Turk’s head on,--cross the bights on each side
of the round turn, and stick one end under one cross, and the other
under the other cross; it will then be formed like the middle figure in
the plate, after which follow the lead until it shows three parts all
round, and it is completed.
[Illustration:
Sheepshank.
Worming a Rope.
Serving a Rope.
A Strand.
Turk’s Head.
Putting a Strand in a Rope.
To form a Single Wall.
Single Wall.
To form a Sin. Wall & Cr’wn.
Single Wall and Crown.
Walled Crowned and Walled.
Double Walled and Double Crowned, or Manrope Knot.
To form a Matthew Walker Knot.
Matthew Walker Knot.
Sprit-sail Sheet Knot.
French Shroud Knot.
Shroud Knot.
Single Diamond.
Double Diamond.
Stopper Knot.
Buoy Rope Knot.]
=31.=--TO SHEEPSHANK A ROPE OR BACKSTAY.
This is intended for shortening a backstay; the rope is doubled in
three parts, as you see in the Plate, and a hitch taken over each bight
with the standing part of the backstay and jamed taut.
=32.=--TO PUT A STRAND IN A ROPE.
This is done in case of one strand of a rope getting chafed or magged,
and the other two remaining good. To perform this, you take your knife
and cut the strand at the place where it is chafed, and unlay it about
a couple of feet each way; then take a strand of a rope as near the
size as possible, and lay it in the vacancy of the rope, (as you see in
the Plate,) and stick the ends the same as a long splice.
=33.=--TO WALL AND CROWN.
Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three strands form a wall knot,
by taking the first strand and forming a bight; take the next strand,
and bring it round the end of the first, the third strand round the
second, and up through the bight of the first--this is a wall. (_See
Plate._)
To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, which call the
first, then lay the second over it, the third over the second, and
through the bight of the first. It will then appear as you see in Plate
No. 2.
=34.=--TO MAKE A MATHEW WALKER.
A Mathew Walker is made by opening the end of a rope, and taking the
first strand round the rope and through its own bight; then take the
second end round the rope underneath, through the bight of the first,
and through its own bight; the third end take round the same way,
underneath and through the bights of all three. Haul the ends well
taut, and it will appear as in the Plate. This is a good lanyard knot,
if well made.
=35.=--A SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT.
Unlay two ends of a rope, and place the two parts which are unlaid
together; form a bight with one strand, and wall the six together
against the lay of the rope, (which is hawser-laid,) the same as you
would a single wall with three ends; after you have walled with the six
ends, haul them taut; you must then crown with the six ends, and it
will appear as in the Plate. To complete it, you must follow the lead
of the parts, and double wall and crown it.
This knot is frequently used in old-fashioned ships as a stopper knot.
=36.=--A SHROUD KNOT.
Unlay the ends of two ropes and place them one within the other, the
same as you commence to make a short splice; then single wall the ends
of one rope round the standing part of the other, and then wall the
other three ends in the same manner; the ends are opened out, tapered
down, and served over with spun-yarn. This knot is used when a shroud
is either shot or carried away.
=37.=--A FRENCH SHROUD KNOT.
Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing them close together;
then lay the first three ends back upon their own part, and single
wall the other three ends round the bights of the other three and the
standing part; it will then appear like the figure in the Plate. The
ends are tapered as the other. This knot is much neater than the common
shroud knot.
=38.=--SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT.
Unlay the end of a rope a sufficient length to make the knot, and with
the three strands form three bights, holding the ends fast down the
side of the rope in your left hand, with the standing part of the rope;
then take the first strand over the bight of the second strand and
through the bight of the third; then take the second over the third
and through the bight of the first; then the third, over the first and
through the second. Haul these taut and lay the ends of the strands
up again, and it will appear as in the Plate. This knot is used for
jib-boom foot-ropes, man-ropes, &c.
=39.=--DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT.
To make this, you make a single one as before; then take a marlinespike
and open the strands, and follow the lead through two single bights,
the ends coming out at the top of the knot; lay the ends of the strands
up as before, and it will appear as in the Plate.
=40.=--A STOPPER KNOT
Is made by double-walling and crowning, which has been described before
on another page. The ends, if very short, are whipped without being
laid up; but if long they are laid up and stopped.
=41.=--A BUOY-ROPE KNOT.
Unlay the strands of a cable-laid rope, take one strand out of the
large ones, and then lay the three large ones up again as before; take
the three small ones which were left out, single and double them round
the standing part of the rope; then take your spare ends, worm them
along the lay and stop them.
=42.=--COMMON SENNIT.
Sennit is made by plaiting rope-yarns together. (_See Plate No. 3._)
=43.=--A SEA GASKET.
A sea gasket is made by taking three or four foxes, according to the
size you intend to make the gasket. Middle them over a belaying-pin,
and plait three or four together, long enough to make the eye; then
clasp both parts together to form the eye; then plait it by bringing
the outside foxes on each side alternately over to the middle; the
outside one is laid with the right hand, and the remainder held
steadily--work the whole together, adding a fox when necessary. When
you have got it a sufficient length, diminish by dropping a fox at
proper intervals. To finish it, you must lay one end up, leaving its
bight down; then plait the others through this bight about one inch;
haul the bight taut to secure all parts--cut the ends off, whip it, and
it is completed.
=44.=--A PANCH, OR WROUGHT MAT.
A piece of six or nine-thread stuff is stretched in a horizontal
direction, and the foxes (according to the breadth you intend to make
the mat) are middled and hung over it; then take the fox nearest the
left hand and twist a turn in the two parts, and one part give to the
man opposite (two men being employed to work the mat); the next fox
has a turn twisted in its two parts, and one part given back to your
partner; the remainder are twisted round the first which are given
back, and then again round its own part, and so on with the remainder
of the foxes, until you get it the breadth you wish. At the bottom of
the mat selvedge it by taking a piece of nine-thread stuff, the same
as you used for the top. The two parts of the foxes which are twisted
together at the bottom are divided, and the nine-thread put between
them; the foxes are hitched round it, and the end put through its own
lay with a marlinespike; trim the ends off, and thrum it with pieces
of old strands of rope, cut in pieces about three or four inches long;
open the lays of the foxes with a marlinespike, push the thrums through
the lays, and open the ends out.
=45.=--HARBOR GASKET, OR FRENCH SENNIT.
A harbor gasket is made with foxes, something similar to the common sea
gasket,--but instead of taking the outside fox over all the rest, and
bringing it into the middle, you interweave it between them by taking
the outside fox of both sides, and taking it over one and under the
other, working it towards the middle, the same as common sennit.
=46.=--POINTING A ROPE.
Unlay the end of the rope a sufficient length for pointing, and stop
it; open the strands out into yarns, and take out as many as you think
it will require to make the knittles, by splitting the yarns and making
one knittle out of every outside yarn; when they are made, stop them
back on the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the
rest of the yarns, by trimming and scraping them down to a proper size,
and marl it down with twine--divide the knittles, taking every other
one up and every other one down; then take a piece of twine, called
the warp, and with it pass these turns very taut, taking a hitch with
the last turn every time you pass the warp, or filling. Then take the
knittles which are up and bring them down, and the ones which are down,
up; hauling them taut, and passing the warp every time over the lower
knittles; proceed in this manner until you get almost to the end,
reserving enough of the knittles to finish it with; leave out every
other bight of the knittles of the last lay, and pass the warp through
the bight, haul them taut and cut them off. A becket is sometimes
worked in the end.
_Note._--Knittles are made by laying rope-yarns together, with your
finger and thumb, against the twist of the yarn.
Snaking is for the better securing of a seizing, which is passed
round the single part of the rope and therefore cannot be crossed. It
is done by tucking the end part of the seizing _under_ and _over_ the
lower and upper turns of the seizing.
=47.=--TO MAKE A GROMMET.
A grommet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope and placing one part
over the other; with the long end follow the lay, until it forms a
ring, with three parts of the strand all round; finish it by knotting
and sticking the ends the same as a long splice. (_See plate No. 3._)
=48.=--TO PASS A ROSE LASHING.
It is used in lashing a strap or pudding round a mast or yard or the
parral lashing of a top-gallant yard; this lashing is passed crossways
over and under one eye, then under and over the other; the end part is
afterwards taken in a circular form round the crossing, and the end
tucked under the last part.
_Note._--This circular part is done to expend the end, instead of
cutting it off, so that it will answer again for the same purpose.
=49.=--TO WEAVE A SWORD MAT.
A piece of wood called a sword is used; this is put alternately between
the parts of the spun-yarn or sennit, stretched over two round iron
bolts (as you see in the figure); the warp of marline is placed through
the parts which the sword has opened, and jamed by it close to the
head; a piece of spun-yarn is put slack through the same division at
the opposite end and left there; the sword is taken out, passed under
and over the parts as before, and each end of the warp passed and
jamed taut. The piece of spun-yarn which was left at the opposite end,
is now lifted up, and brings the parts as they were first divided by
the sword; the warp is passed as before, and so on until the mat is
completed.
=50.=--A LASHING CLEAT
Is shaped like the figure in the Plate, having scores for the seizings
which are marked, and a groove cut in the part that fits next to the
shroud.
BLOCKS.
=51.=--A SHELL, PIN, AND SHEAVE.
Blocks are of different kinds, shapes, and sizes, according to the
several purposes for which they are intended.
A block consists of a shell, sheave, and pin; and from the number of
these sheaves it derives its name, viz.: a block with one sheave is
called single; with two sheaves, double; with three, treble; and with
four sheaves it is called a four-fold block. The shell of a block is
made of ash, and has one or two scores cut at each end, according to
its size; these scores are for the purpose of admitting a strap, which
goes round the block, in the centre of which is a hole for the pin;
the shell is hollow inside to admit the sheave. The sheave is a solid
wheel, made of lignum vitæ, iron, or brass; in the centre is a hole for
the pin, on which it turns. The lignum vitæ sheave is bushed with brass
or iron; round the circumference a groove is cut, that the rope which
goes over it may play with ease. The sheave is placed in the shell, and
the pin is put through both shell and sheave, which constitute a block.
=52.=--SINGLE, DOUBLE, AND TREBLE BLOCKS.
What is termed a single block has but one sheave, and if intended for a
double strap there are two scores on the outside of the shell. Single
blocks are more used than any other kind on board of a ship.
_A double block_ has an additional sheave; it is otherwise the same as
a single block.
_A treble block_ is made in the same manner as a double, with one
more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as purchase blocks, and
strapped in the manner you see in the Plate.
=53.=--A SHOULDER BLOCK.
A shoulder block is the same as a single block, with the exception that
it has a projection at the bottom of the shell, called a shoulder, to
prevent the rope that reeves through it from jaming between the block
and the yard. These blocks are mostly used for bumkin or lift blocks on
lower vards.
[Illustration:
Common Sennet.
Sea-gasket.
A Wrought or Punch-mat.
Harbor gasket.
Pointing a Rope.
Grommet.
Strand.
Rose Lashing.
To weave a Sword-mat.
Cable-laid Rope.
Common Rope, or Plain-lay.
Shell.
Sheeve.
Single Bl.
Double Block.
Treble Block.
Bull’s Eye.
Shoulder Block.
Fiddle Block.
Shoe Block.
Sister Block.
Monkey Block.
Dead Eye.
A Heart.
Heart for a Collar.
Ninepin Block.
A Rack.
A Euphroe.]
=54.=--A FIDDLE BLOCK
Is made like two single blocks one above the other, the upper one being
the largest so as to allow the rope which is rove in the upper sheave,
to play clear of the rope in the under one. These blocks are used in
places where there is not space enough for a double one, or where it
(the double block) would be liable to split by not _canting_ fair, or
having room to play. These blocks are used for top burtons, &c. &c.
=55.=--A SHOE BLOCK
Is also made like two single blocks, but the sheave of the upper
one lies in a contrary direction to that of the lower one. They are
generally used as buntline blocks to courses; the buntline reeving in
the upper sheave, and the whip in the lower one.
=56.=--A SISTER BLOCK
Has two sheave-holes one above the other,--three scores for seizings,
one at each end, and one between both sheaves; they are hollowed out
on each side of the shell, to take the shroud. These blocks are used
as topsail-lift and reef-tackle blocks, and are seized-in between the
two forward shrouds of the topmast rigging, above the futtock stave.
The lift reeves through the lower sheave, and the topsail reef-tackle
through the upper one.
=57.=--A DEAD-EYE
Is a large round piece of wood with three holes in it, (as you see in
the Plate,) and a groove cut round it for the shroud to lie in. It is
used to turn in the ends of shrouds and backstays;--the three holes
are used to reeve the lanyard through, when setting up the shroud or
backstay.
A bull’s-eye is a kind of thick wooden thimble, with a hole in the
centre, and a groove cut round the outside for the rope or seizing to
lay in.
=58.=--A HEART
Is a block of wood with a large hole in the centre, at the bottom
of which are four or five scores, and round the outside is a groove
cut to admit a rope called a stay; there are other hearts called
collar-hearts, which are open at the lower ends, opposite to which
the lanyard is passed. This heart has a double score cut round the
outside, and two grooves cut on each side for the seizings to lay in,
which keeps the collar in the scores of the heart. Hearts intended for
bobstays should be made of lignum vitæ; those made of ash being liable
to split.
=59.=--A BELAYING-PIN RACK
Is a piece of wood with a number of holes through it, in which
belaying-pins are stuck; on the back part are several scores for the
shrouds to lie in to which it is seized.
=60.=--A EUPHROE
Is a long piece of wood, having a number of holes, through which the
legs of the crowfoot is rove,--a score is cut round it to admit of a
strap. This is used for the ridge of an awning.
=61.=--A HORN CLEAT.
Horn cleats are used for different purposes; some are made to seize on
to the shrouds; they are called _lashing cleats_; others are made to
nail on to different parts of the bulwarks. They are of different shape
and size, and used to belay various ropes to, in all parts of the ship.
=62.=--A B-CLEAT
Is a piece of wood scored out inside, something like the letter B, and
rounded off outside; they are used for leading a rope through, or for
keeping it in its place on the masts, bowsprit, &c.
=63.=--A STRAP FOR A BLOCK.
Straps are fitted in various ways, according to the use they are
intended for, and according to the size of the block.
A common strap is fitted in the following manner:--
First, cut the rope once-and-a-half the round of the block, then get it
on a stretch,--worm, parcel, and serve as near the end as possible, not
to interfere with splicing; then splice the ends together with a short
splice, and finish serving snug up to the splice. Stretch it and cut
the ends off, or you may serve over the ends, and it will appear as in
the Plate. If there is a number of those straps required, it would be
best to get the rope on a stretch, and serve off the required number
before cutting.
=64.=--A TAIL BLOCK
Is strapped with an eye-splice, snug round the block; the ends are
stuck but once; then scraped down, and served over with spun-yarn. Clap
on a stout whipping about six inches from the splice; open the ends
out, twist them into foxes, and plait them together, as mentioned for
gaskets; or, the strands may be opened out and marled down salvagee
fashion; tapering it a little towards the end of the tail.
_Note._--Blocks used for jiggers, have a double tail made in the same
manner.
=65.=--A PURCHASE BLOCK
Is double strapped, having two scores in the shell for that purpose;
the strap is wormed, parceled, and served, (sometimes only wormed and
parceled,) and spliced together. It is then doubled so as to bring
the splice at the bottom of the block. The seizing is put on the same
as any other; the only difference is, that it is crossed both ways,
through the double parts of the strap.
These block-straps are so large and stiff, that it requires a purchase
to set them securely in the scores of the block, and bring them into
their proper place.
=66.=--A TOP BLOCK
Is a single iron-bound hook-block, with (generally) a brass sheave; it
hooks to an eye-bolt in the cap. The top-pendants are rove through the
top-blocks when swaying up topmasts.
=67.=--A CAT BLOCK.
The cat block is three-fold, iron-bound, with a large iron hook
attached to it, for the purpose of hooking the ring of the anchor when
catting it.
On the forward side of the shell of this block are two small eye-bolts,
for the purpose of fitting a small rope, called the back-rope bridle,
used in hooking the cat.
=68.=--A SNATCH BLOCK
Is generally iron-bound, with a swivel hook; an iron clasp is fitted
on the iron band, or strap, with a hinge to go over the snatch, and
toggles on the opposite side, as you see in the Plate. The bight of a
hawser or large rope is placed in this block, when warping the ship, &c.
_Note._--There has been of late years several different improvements
made on these blocks.
Blocks of this description, and of a large size, are generally termed
“viol, or rouse-about blocks.”
=69.=--A NUN BUOY.
Buoys are used when a ship is riding at anchor, to denote the position
of the anchor. They are a kind of a cask, large in the middle, and
small at both ends; hooped close with iron hoops, and strapped with
rope well served. A buoy-strap is cut _nine times_ the length of the
buoy; this is sufficient to make the slings and hoops; the slings have
an eye spliced in each end, the hoops are rove through these eyes,
spliced together, and fitted on the buoy, as you see in the Plate.
=70.=--TO BEND A BUOY-ROPE.
The buoy rope is made fast with a clove-hitch round the arms of the
anchor, close up to the crown, and the end part stopped along the
shank, with one or two stops.
Some are fitted with a running eye, and when used this way the running
eye is rove round one arm, a hitch taken over the other, and seized in
the cross.
[Illustration:
Single Whip. Whip and Runner. Gun-tackle Purchase. Luff-tackle
Purchase. A Top Burton. A Long Tackle. Runner and Tackle. A
Lashing-cleat.
A Three-fold Purchase. A Jacob’s Ladder. A Nun-buoy. Pudding a Ring.
Buoy-rope Bend.
Catting an Anchor. Can Hooks. Barrel Slings. Hogshead Slings.
Horn-cleat. A B-Cleat. A Block Strap. Tail-block.
A Single Block. A Purchase-block. A Top-block. A Cat-block. A
Snatch-block.]
In large ships they are fitted with pendants and slip buoy-ropes; the
pendants have a large thimble spliced in one end, large enough to
receive a stout hawser, in case you should want to purchase the anchor
by the buoy-rope. The size for the slip buoy-rope is one-third the size
of the proper buoy-rope.
=71.=--TO PUDDING THE RING OF AN ANCHOR.
The ring of the anchor is well tarred, and parceled with tarred
canvass; then a number of lengths of old rope are cut three times the
diameter of the ring; these are laid on the ring, and stopped by a
temporary seizing in the middle; they are then placed fair by hand
round the rings, as you see in the Plate.
When one or two turns of rattling-stuff is taken round all parts, and
a heaver put through it, it is hove well round, which stretches all
parts snug round the ring. After it is all hove on neatly, put on the
seizings, four in number. (_See Plate._)
=72.=--A JACOB’S LADDER.
These ladders are used in many different parts of a ship of war; they
are used for stern ladders, rigging ladders, and on the swinging
booms in harbor, &c. There are several different ways of making them;
some are made salvagee fashion, and covered; others are made of
four-stranded rope, and have the rounds put through between the strands
of the rope. But the most general way of making these ladders, is to
take some small rope, (about two-inch stuff,) and make two straps the
length you intend to make the ladder, and splice them together with a
short-long-splice. The straps being made, get them on a stretch both
together, and see if they bear an equal strain; if not, shorten one
strap, so as to make both alike. Take a piece of chalk and mark off
where you intend the rounds to go, about fifteen inches apart.
The _rounds_ are pieces of round wood, about two inches in diameter,
of the length required, with a score on each end, for the rope to lay
in. Put the rounds in between both parts of the rope, exactly at the
chalk mark; having got them all placed, commence and seize them in, by
putting on a snug seizing of marline on each side of the round; you may
parcel, leather, or serve in the nips, just as may be preferred.
=73.=--CAN HOOKS
Are broad flat iron hooks, in the eyes of which thimbles are inserted.
What is termed a pair of can hooks, is a piece of rope four or five
feet long, or long enough to span a cask from chime to chime. When
fitted, one of these hooks are spliced into the end of this rope; it is
then got on a stretch, wormed, parceled and served, and a thimble is
sometimes seized in the bight, to hook on to, when lifting a cask.
_Note._--Some are fitted with chain, with a large iron ring in the
middle.
=74.=--HOGSHEAD SLINGS
Are pieces of rope about five fathoms long, and from five to six inches
in circumference, with a large thimble spliced in one end, and the
other end well whipped. They are used to sling large casks, being more
secure than can hooks. They are put on in this manner:--pass the bight
over one end of the cask, reeve the end through the thimble, and haul
it well taut; then take the end round the other end of the cask, and
take two half-hitches round the standing part, and it is done. (_See
Plate._)
=75.=--BARREL SLINGS
Are generally made of three inch rope, and of sufficient length to go
round the barrel. They are similar to a long strap, spliced together
with a short splice; it is passed round the barrel and one bight rove
through the other.
They are sometimes made long enough to sling two or three barrels at a
time.
=76.=--A SINGLE WHIP.
A single whip is the smallest and most simple purchase in use. It is
made by reeving a rope through a single block, as you see in the Plate.
=77.=--A GUN-TACKLE PURCHASE
Is made by reeving a rope through a single block, then through another
single block, and make the end fast to the one it was first rove
through, or splice it into the bottom of the block for neatness. (_See
Plate._)
=78.=--A LUFF-TACKLE PURCHASE
Consists of a double and single block; the rope is rove through one
of the sheave holes of the double block, then through the single one,
through the double one again, and the end made fast to the single
block, with a becket bend, to a becket in the bottom of the block.
(_See Plate._)
=79.=--A TOP BURTON
Is rove in the same manner as a luff-tackle purchase; the only
difference is, that the upper block of the burton is a fiddle block,
while that of the luff is a double one. (_See Plate._)
=80.=--WHIP AND RUNNER.
If a rope is rove through a single block, it is called a whip, as
before mentioned; and if the fall of this whip be spliced round the
block of another whip, it becomes whip on whip, or whip and runner.
(_See Plate._)
=81.=--A RUNNER AND TACKLE
Is the same purchase as a luff-tackle applied to a runner. A runner is
a large rope rove through a single block, with a hook spliced in one
end. (_See Plate._)
=82.=--A TWO-FOLD PURCHASE
Consists of two double blocks; the fall is first rove through one
sheave of the upper block, then through one of the lower ones; through
the upper one again, then through the lower one, and make the end fast
to the upper block.
=83.=--A THREE-FOLD PURCHASE.
A three-fold purchase is rove in this way, the blocks having one more
sheave, only that you commence to reeve the fall in the middle sheave
first,--instead of one of the side ones, which brings a cross in
the fall. The reason of its being rove in this manner, is, that the
heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, and if it was rove in the
side sheave, it would have a tendency to _cant the block in the strap_,
split the shell of the block, and cut the fall; but when it is in the
middle sheave it draws all down square alike.
=84.=--NAMES OF ROPES.
The different kinds of ropes are designated as follows:--
Hawser-laid and cable-laid rope is all the same; it is composed of
nine strands, each strand having an equal number of yarns. These nine
strands are laid into three, by twisting three small ones into one
large one; then the three large ones are laid up, or twisted together
left-handed, which makes the nine strands; this is a hawser-laid, or
cabled, rope.
A common or plain rope is composed of three strands, of an equal number
of yarns twisted together.
Shroud-laid rope is made in the same manner, only that it consists of
four strands instead of three, and a small strand which runs through
the middle, termed the heart of the rope. When plain-laid rope is laid
up left-handed, it is called _back-laid rope_. There is also four
stranded hawser-laid rope, which is used for stays, &c., &c.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: A Ship Ready for Launching.]