Correct incubator temperatures are much the same for turkey eggs as for
chicken eggs, but the greater size of the turkey eggs may necessitate
some adjustment of the apparatus used in measuring the temperature.
This is true in nearly all kinds of incubators except those of the
forced-draft type. The relative position of the thermometer in the
egg chamber is important in the accuracy with which it records the
temperature. For hatching turkey eggs the proper position of the
thermometer is usually indicated in the directions that are furnished
by the manufacturer of the incubator. As a general rule, with the
bottom of the bulb 1-7/8 inches above the egg tray, the thermometer
should read 100.5° F. for the first week, 101.5° the second, 102.5° the
third, and 103° the last week. Forced-draft incubators are usually run
at about 99.5°. Temperature can best be regulated, however, by using
the thermometer that goes with the machine, placing it in the position
recommended by the manufacturer, and then following the manufacturer's
instructions for hatching turkey eggs, making sure that the egg trays do
not sag.
Turkey eggs lose about 3.5 percent less moisture during incubation than
do chicken eggs, notwithstanding the fact that turkey eggs require about
7 days longer to hatch. Excellent hatches have been obtained when the
loss of moisture based on the weight of the eggs just before they were
set, ranged within the following limits: After 6 days of incubation, 2 to
8 percent; after 12 days of incubation. 4.1 to 6 percent; after 18 days
of incubation, 6.2 to 9 percent; and after 24 days of incubation, 9 to 12
percent.
On this basis, a dozen turkey eggs of normal size should lose about 1
ounce for every 6 days of incubation. The air cells of turkey eggs are
smaller in proportion to the size of the eggs than are those of chicken
eggs because normal evaporation in turkey eggs during incubation is
considerably less than that in chicken eggs. When more moisture is needed
in the incubator it can be provided by putting in water pans, or by
placing burlap wicks in the pans. When less moisture is needed the water
pans may be removed or the ventilation increased.
As a rule the eggs should be turned at least 3 and preferably 4 to 6
times daily. Four times daily, every 6 hours, day and night, is an
excellent plan. They should be tested preferably on the eighth or ninth
and again on the twentieth to twenty-second days, and all infertile eggs
and those having dead germs should be removed. Cooling the eggs once or
twice a day until they feel slightly cool to the face may be of value
in small incubators. Turning and cooling should be discontinued about
the twenty-third day, and the incubator door should be darkened and kept
closed until hatching is completed. The poults may then be left in the
incubators for about 24 hours or else put in the brooder and fed as soon
as hatching is completed and the poults thoroughly dried off. Poults
held in the incubator should be kept at about 95° F. and should have a
rough surface such as 1/4-inch-mesh hardware cloth to stand on. Keeping
the incubator dark helps to keep the poults quiet and tends to prevent
spraddle legs. There is no good reason for withholding feed longer than
24 hours. If feed is withheld for a much longer period when the poults
are in the brooder, they may eat the litter. Therefore, poults should be
fed when they are put in the brooder house.
Shipping day-old poults in specially built strawboard boxes has been
found to be satisfactory. The container is larger than that ordinarily
used for baby chicks, 60 poults commonly being placed in each box.