August 28.--The season continues to get warm and sultry. We pursued an

east-north-east course during our day's journey, leading us through a

fine open forest country generally level in the direction of our course,

but rising into forest hills to the north and south of us. At eight

miles, ascending from this level, we saw the great plains which extend

along the line of our course, and are separated from us by a rich open

country of hill and vale, distant four or five miles. A branch from these

plains led to the north-east across our course, and was distant five or

six miles. We proceeded in the whole ten miles, and stopped in a pretty

forest valley, with plenty of water and good grass. The stones composing

the hills were very various, sometimes different species of granite, then

sandstone, and on others loose slate. On View Hill we found particularly

rich iron stone. The soil was uniformly good, and covered with grass; the

country by no means thickly timbered, chiefly with box, and a few

cypresses.

August 29.--On our departure we almost immediately descended a rocky

and steep hill, covered with cypress and small brush; from thence we

descended upon a level forest country, which continued for the remainder

of our journey (seven and a half miles), to the edge of the extensive

flat which we had seen yesterday. As we should not have been able to

cross it before nightfall, I thought it better to remain where there was

plenty of grass and water. From our tent we had a singularly picturesque

and pleasing prospect. To the north, Hardwicke's Range, distant between

forty and fifty miles: the country broken into low forest hills and

plains to its base. To the north-east, east, and south-east, our view was

bounded by beautiful forest hills seldom rising to any great elevation,

thinly wooded, and covered with grass. These hills bounded the plains,

and varied in distance from ten to thirty miles. To the north-east the

country was lowest, but appeared good and open: that part of the plain

near which we encamped was wet and marshy; and the horizontal level of

the whole appeared to warrant the supposition that at some (perhaps not

distant) period, these vast plains formed chains of inland lakes, which

the washings from the hills have now nearly filled up; as the water at

present does not exceed a few inches in depth, and is only partially

spread on the surface, forming but a moderate proportion of the whole. In

dry seasons there is evidently none: the hills passed over this day were

of a curious species of pudding-stone and freestone. The hills on the

opposite side of the plains were named Melville Hills, in honour of the

first Lord of the Admiralty; and the valley at the extremity of it

leading to Hardwicke's Range, Barrow's Valley, after one of the

secretaries of that board.

August 30.--A day of rest and refreshment to ourselves and horses. Game

abounds, and our dogs abundantly supply us. The observations made here,

place our situation in lat. 31. 7., long. 150. 10. E.

August 31.--We were agreeably disappointed, in finding that the wet

marshy ground did not extend above three quarters of a mile, the

remainder being dry firm land of the richest description: at six miles we

crossed a considerable stream, running to the north through Barrow's

Valley: this stream, divided the plain into nearly two equal parts, it

being ten miles and a half across. This stream had been very recently

flooded, and the water, yet muddy, had not subsided within its proper

level; the height of the banks from fifteen to twenty feet. On the east

side of the plain, we found the marsh extend about one mile and a quarter

from the forest ground which borders it; though wet, it was now strong

ground, and might easily be laid dry. On quitting the plains we entered a

very fine open forest flat, through which we proceeded a mile and a half,

and encamped for the evening under a lofty hill named Mount Dundas, by a

small spring of excellent water. Ascending this mountain, we found that

the country in the line of our course was high, broken forest land, the

easternmost ranges of which (distant from thirty-five to forty miles)

appeared to have a stream running under them, by reason of the thick

haze which rose from the valley beneath. To the north bending round to

the north-east, the country was beautifully picturesque, consisting of

low, open forest hills, bounded by higher chains of hills that formed the

southern side of the spacious valley under Hardwicke's Range; through

which I no longer doubted that a considerable stream had its course,

since all the waters we had hitherto crossed ran in that direction. A

great many smokes, arising from the fires of the natives, were seen to

the north-east and north. To the south-east, south, and south-west, our

view extended over that vast tract of level champaign country

intermingled with hills, sometimes rising into lofty peaks, as has

already been described. The abundance of game, such as emus, and

kangaroos, and of wild ducks on the stream, was wonderful: our dogs

after severe battles killed two emus, who however tore one of them very

dangerously. We called the river which divided and watered the plain

Field's River, in honour of the Judge of the Supreme Court.

September 1.--We pursued our course to the east-north-east, winding

through rich valleys bounded by lofty forest hills for seven miles; when

by a gentle descent we entered a rich and spacious vale, bounded on the

east by very high hills, and on the west by others less elevated. At

twelve miles we stopped at some ponds near the centre of the vale. The

hills were very stony, of various species--granite, freestone, and

pudding-stone; they were however well covered with grass, and quite clear

and open; the valleys and levels excellent, with good timber, chiefly

apple tree, box, and gum. On the higher ridges of the hills, and

occasionally on their sides, were many fine cypresses: there was nothing

grand or imposing in the scenery; but it was simple and attractive from

its richness and extent: the hills sometimes rose into singular forms

which were continually changing in our progress, and appeared well

calculated to afford an ample range of sheep pasture. The extensive vale

in which we stopped was named Goulburn Vale, in honour of the under

Secretary of State for the colonies.

September 2.--Our expectations of finding a river to the eastward, were

this day verified: after passing for eleven miles across this beautiful

vale, we came to a deep and rapid stream running to the north, through

the valley whose eastern side it waters: finding it too deep to be

forded, we constructed a bridge across a narrow part of it, by felling

such large trees as would meet, by which the baggage was taken over: the

horses were swum across. One of the men, foolishly attempting to swim

over on a horse, nearly paid for his imprudence with his life: as he

could not swim, he was carried down the stream near a quarter of a mile,

and was several minutes under water. His body being providentially washed

across a log, was the means of his preservation. It was late in the

afternoon before our passage across was effected, so that we halted on

the banks. This was the largest interior river (with the exception of the

Macquarie and Castlereagh), which we had yet seen. It would be impossible

to find a finer or more luxuriant country than it waters: north and

south, its extent is unknown, but it is certainly not less than sixty

miles, whilst the breadth of the vale is on a medium about twenty miles.

This space between the bounding hills is not altogether level, but rises

into gentle inequalities, and independently of the river is well watered;

the grass was most luxuriant; the timber good and not thick: in short, no

place in the world can afford more advantages to the industrious settler,

than this extensive vale. The river was named Peel's River, in honour of

the Right Hon. Robert Peel. A great many new plants were found to-day and

yesterday, chiefly of the orchis tribe [Note: Orchideae of Juss. and

BROWN.]: we saw numbers of the ornithorynchus, or water mole, in the

river, also a few turtle: we were not successful in obtaining any fish,

so that we were unable to decide whether it contained the same species as

the Macquarie.

September 3.--After passing over a fine and gently rising country for

between four and five miles, we ascended a very lofty chain of hills,

being the eastern boundary of Goulburn Vale; these hills were of

good soil, and covered with excellent grass to their very summits.

Ascending two of the highest ridges, several circular orifices were

observed on them about twelve feet in diameter, and five feet deep.

Great quantities of small stones resembling basaltes were in heaps

round the edges, at a little distance from which the stones were

perpendicular, and firmly bedded in the earth; many of them regular

six-sided figures, and all fractured into laminae, from two to nine

inches in thickness. The rocks upon this range were of a peculiarly hard

quality, and of a deep blue colour, approaching to black when broken. The

country easterly appeared broken into a series of rocky detached hills:

and on descending this range, we found an immediate change in the quality

of the soil, being in the valleys of a light coarse sand, the surface

covered with gritty particles as from pulverised coarse granite. The

difference in the rocks composing the hills was here very remarkable,

being a very coarse granite of the same description as in the

neighbourhood of Bathurst, scattered in immense masses both in the

valleys and on the hills; and our astonishment was more than once

excited at the causes which could have effected their removal from their

primitive bed. On a hill near which we encamped, was a single mass of

granite apparently thrown up perpendicularly from the bosom of the earth:

it was twenty-six feet high and had six distinct sides, ending in an

irregular point at the summit, and was forty-eight feet in circumference.

The valleys, though sandy, afforded us plenty of good grass and water,

and the hills furnished abundant employment for the botanical collector.

September 4.--After leaving the valley in which we encamped, we entered

one much more extensive, and communicating with Goulburn Vale. Between

five and six miles on our route, we reached a beautiful small river

coming from the eastward and joining Peel's River, of which it appears to

be a principal branch. For the remainder of the day's journey, we

proceeded up the fine valley which this stream watered, bounded on the

north and south by lofty and fertile hills covered with rich herbage,

having numerous smaller valleys and streams terminating in this principal

valley. The whole scenery was thinly clothed with wood, and occasionally

a bold craggy promontory terminating at the river gave it a diversity,

which its general softness of feature or outline required: there were no

principal ranges of hills, but they broke in and upon each other, forming

the utmost variety of shape. The rocks and stones which composed the

bases and summits of these hills, were not less various than their form:

scarcely two were alike. Granite, coarse porphyry, freestone, and

whinstone were frequently found on the same hill, and the beds of the

streams were of every variety of pebble. This fine stream received the

name of Cockburn River.

September 5.--Our course this day sometimes led us over very elevated

ridges, and at other times through deep and rich valleys. Some of these

hills were at least three thousand feet in height, and clothed with grass

to their summits. Others of the less elevated were entirely free from

rocks, and of the finest soil. The timber chiefly box, with some few

trees of another species of eucalyptus called stringy bark, and cypress.

A number of small streams watered the deep valleys to the north and

south, falling into Cockburn River. Large quantities of quartz were in

various places, as also good flint, which was found in large masses in

the bed of Cockburn River, and also in small pieces on the hills. This

was the second flint that has been discovered in New South Wales. We

halted in a small and beautiful valley near Cockburn River, after having

accomplished nine miles.

September 6.--A day of rest. The observations place this station in lat.

31. 04. 35 S., long. 151. 05. 30. E., variation 9. 58. E.

September 7.--The morning clear and fine. At half past seven o'clock we

proceeded on our journey: in the whole course of it, we never experienced

more precipitous travelling than during the first six miles. Travellers,

less accustomed to meet difficulties, might perhaps have been a little

alarmed at traversing such steep and shelving hills, the loose stones on

which added to the insecurity of our footing. Nevertheless we found it

extremely pleasant, from the romantic beauty of the scenery and the

freshness of the verdure. We had been ascending an extremely elevated

country for the last thirty miles; and I was in great hopes of soon

reaching the point of division between the eastern and western waters. By

a tolerably easy acclivity, we gained that which I took to be the highest

of these congregated hills, in hopes it might possibly lead into a main

range. From its summit we had a very extensive prospect over the country

we had left, and also to the southward, in which direction the land

appeared broken and hilly, and but thinly clothed with timber. To the

east and north-east it appeared far less broken, and certainly less

elevated than the ridge we were on. This ridge soon expanded to a broad

surface of open forest land, and proceeding on it to the east about a

mile, we perceived in the valley beneath us a considerable and rapid

stream running to the north, and afterwards apparently taking a more

easterly direction. A more remarkable change in the outward appearance of

a country was perhaps never before witnessed. In less than a mile, the

timber had entirely changed from the bastard box to another kind of

eucalyptus, called common blue gum, which grew in great luxuriance in the

country before us. Until now this species had never been seen except on

the immediate banks of running streams. In the course of the day, great

quantities of fine stringy bark were also seen. The soil, instead of the

light black mould, which had been the general covering of the country,

was now changed to a stiff tenacious clay; and although well clothed with

grass, its less luxuriant growth evidently showed the difference of soil

not to be favourable. From this hill or range we descended very gradually

for nearly two miles to the river before seen, and up the banks of which

we proceeded about a mile farther, when we halted for the evening. The

country was perfectly open, though much covered with fallen timber; the

banks of the river sloping and quite clear of timber; and being within

one hundred miles of the sea coast, I had a strong belief that we had

descended from the highest land, and that we should meet with no dividing

ranges in the course of our future progress. It is impossible to form any

certain conclusion at present, as to the course taken by this stream.

Whether it finds its way to the coast, or is lost like the other streams

of this country, will, I think, in a great measure depend upon the fact

of our having crossed the highest ranges of the country. One of the men

who had taken the dogs out after kangaroos fell in with a party of

natives, among whom were some women and children. Two of the men

accompanied him to the tent. It was evident from the whole tenor of their

behaviour that they had previously heard of white people (most probably

from the settlement at New Castle); their appearance was most miserable,

their features approached deformity, and their persons were disgustingly

filthy: their small attenuated limbs seemed scarcely able to support

their bodies; and their entire person formed a marked contrast to the

fine and manly figures of their brethren in the interior. We gave them a

small turtle which we had just caught in the river, and they sat down to

dress it instantly. In fact, their cooking was very simple; the fire soon

separated the shell from the meat, which with the entrails was devoured

in a few minutes. Some of the people went to visit their camp, where they

found eight or ten men, but the women and children were sent away. The

same jealousy of women exists throughout the interior. The great number

of fallen trees was in some measure accounted for by the men observing

about a dozen trees on fire near this camp, no doubt the more easily to

expel the opossums, rats, and other vermin which inhabit their hollows.

We were not successful with our lines, though the depth and breadth of

the river had made us a little sanguine. There did not appear any great

marks of flood; none was seen exceeding five feet in height, which led us

to conclude its source was not very distant. This river was named Sydney,

as we this day crossed the meridian of that town.

September 8.--We proceeded up Sydney River to the south-east about three

miles before we could find a convenient Place to Cross, as the stream

ran with great rapidity over a rocky bottom. The country on either side

sloped to the river with gradual declension, and was an open forest

country. On crossing the river, we passed through some noble forests of

stringy bark, growing generally on the sides and ridges of stony barren

hills: thew forests extended above two miles from the east of the river.,

after which the country became perfectly open, and of a level, or rather

alternately rising surface. To the north and north-east the river was

beautiful, the same description of country extending as far as the eye

could reach, with no elevated points or ridges to obstruct it. Indeed I

am clearly of opinion, that if we had kept a more northerly course from

Lushington Valley, we should have avoided the rugged though fine country

we have passed through for the last two days. The determination of all

the hills and slopes is northerly, and the rivers which we have crossed

have also taken the same direction. We proceeded about nine miles farther

through the finest open country, or rather park, imaginable; the general

quality of the soil excellent, though of a strong and more tenacious

description than farther westerly. We halted in a fine and spacious

valley, where art, so far as it is an auxiliary of beauty, would have

been detrimental to the fresher and simpler garb of nature. This valley

was watered by a fine brook, and at a a distance of a mile we saw several

fires, at which appeared many natives: upon discovering us, however, they

immediately departed. I think that the most fastidious sportsman would

have derived ample amusement during our days journey. He might without

moving have seen the finest coursing, from the commencement of the chase

to the death of the game: and when tired of killing kangaroos, he might

have seen emus hunted with equal success. We numbered swans and ducks

among our acquisitions, which in truth were caught without much exertion

on our part, or deviating, in the least from our course. Granite and a

hard whinstone were the most predominant among the stones; small pieces

of quartz, and loose rotten slates covered the tracks, on which grew

some of the finest stringy bark trees I ever saw. Indeed the other timber,

which consisted chiefly of common blue gum, was far larger than usually

seen on forest lands. That species of casuarina called the beef wood

(or she oak), was also seen to-day for the first time: it is in part

a coast tree, and sufficiently denoted that we were approaching the sea.

Observed the variation of the compass to be 8. 51. E.

September 9.--In the night we had a severe frost, which in the morning

was succeeded by a dense fog. We found however that it was confined to

the valley, for on ascending the hills, the prospect was clear and open.

We passed over a beautiful and well-watered country for about six miles,

when we came on the rivulet which we had quitted in the morning; but

now, by the addition of several brooks from the valleys, increased to a

considerable stream. Its banks were quite clear of timber, and expanded

into extensive sheets of water, which added greatly to the beauty of the

scenery. This stream running to the east southeast verified the

conjecture that we had passed the dividing range of hills, and that this

and most probably Sydney River (much superior in magnitude) were coast

streams. Crossing the former, we ascended a hill on the opposite side,

from whence the river's course was seen to the south-east, running

through a fine and open country. To the northward and north-east the

prospect was equally satisfactory, the hills being connected by long and

easy slopes, which would have rendered their ascent a matter of little

difficulty had our course lain over them. After crossing the river, the

country still continued open, but the soil was not so good, and we found

that we were ascending in a gradual manner. For the last five miles the

country was thickly timbered with stringy bark and gum trees, the soil

bad, and crossed by numerous wet hollows, which showed we were nearly on

the summit of a level and extensive range of hills. We accomplished

fourteen miles with much ease, and halted for the evening in a thick

stringy bark forest, where there was worse entertainment for both man and

horse than we had experienced for some weeks.

September 10.--A tempestuous morning, with occasional showers of small

rain, prevented us from quitting our camp. In the intervals of fair

weather, I walked to a hill about one mile off, being the highest part of

the range we were upon. Our prospect from it was exceedingly grand and

picturesque. The country from north to south-east was broken into

perpendicular rocky ridges, and divided longitudinally by deep and

apparently impassable glens. The rocks were covered with climbing plants,

and the glens abounded with new and beautiful ones. Our collector

descended one of those nearest to us, and was amply repaid by the

acquisition of nearly sixty most desirable plants, some of which appeared

even to constitute new genera. The rocks were covered with epidendra

[Note: Of the genera cymbidium and dendrobium of Swartz.], bignoniae, or

trumpet-flowers, and clematides, or virgin's bower, of which last genus

three species apparently new were discovered. Far different was the

character of these glens from the rugged and barren blue mountain ranges:

fine open forest land ended abruptly on the precipices. The bottoms were

of the richest soil, the rocks instead of being of a coarse sandstone

were of a hard texture, and of a blue shining appearance when broken. The

country eastward of these glens appeared very lofty, and much broken; but

as in the direction of our course, we should have some miles of good open

country to travel over, we had strong hopes that our difficulties would

prove greater in contemplation than reality. Among the timber in these

glens were some of the stateliest stringy bark trees that we had ever

beheld: in fact, the timber altogether is unusually good. To the

south-west and north-west, the country is low and beautifully diversified

by long sloping hills.

September 11.--Our course for near eight miles led us along a broad and

very elevated ridge of poor forest land, intermixed with brush; when we

were stopped from proceeding farther eastward by the deep chasm or glen,

which we had seen at a distance yesterday. This tremendous ravine runs

near north and south, its breadth at the bottom does not apparently

exceed one hundred or two hundred feet, whilst the separation of the

outer edges is from two to three miles. I am certain that in

perpendicular depth it exceeds three thousand feet. The slopes from the

edges were so steep and covered with loose stones, that any attempt to

descend even on foot was impracticable. From either side of this abyss,

smaller ravines of similar character diverged, the distance between which

seldom exceeded half a mile. Down them trickled rills of water, derived

from the range on which we were. We could not however discern which way

the water in the main valley ran, as the bottom was concealed by a thicket

of vines and creeping plants. From the range on which we were, we could

distinctly see the coast line of hills. The country between us and the

coast was of an equal elevation, and appeared broken and divided by

ravines and steep precipices. We continued along the edge of this ravine

southerly for about four miles, when we halted for the day. Our only hope

of being enabled to cross this barrier depends upon our pursuing a

southerly course, when if the waters run northerly, the dividing range

between them and Hunters River will permit us again to turn easterly. If

on the contrary they run southerly, their junction with Hunter's River

will equally (it is to be hoped) facilitate that object.

September 12.--We were obliged during the whole of this day's journey, to

keep along the ridge bordering on the glen. It is impossible to form a

correct idea of the wild magnificence of the scenery without the pencil

of a Salvator. Such a painter would here find an ample field for the

exercise of his genius. How dreadful must the convulsion have been that

formed these glens! The principal glen led us to the westward: there were

others that fell into it from the southward; but we perceived that the

waters in it ran north-easterly, which gave us strong hopes of soon

being enabled to head it. Several times in the course of the day we

attempted to descend on foot; but after getting with much difficulty a

few hundred yards, we were always stopped by perpendicular precipices.

Scarcely a quarter of a mile elapsed without a spring from the top of the

ridge crossing our track, forming at its entrance into the main glen a

vast ravine. The ridge along which we travelled was, as might be

expected, very stony. It was otherwise open forest land, thickly timbered

with large, stringy bark trees, casuarinae, and a large species of

eucalyptus. Kangaroos abounded on it, and the tracks of emus were

also seen.

September 13.--We were too anxious to find a passage across this river

(for such we now perceived it to be), to permit us to rest this day. We

proceeded on a variety of courses to avoid the deep ravines or glens

which conducted numerous small streams of water to the principal one. Our

road was very rugged, and our elevation sometimes very considerable,

every part heavily timbered. Our course, which led us chiefly west, now

terminated at one of the most magnificent waterfalls we had ever seen.

The water was precipitated over a perpendicular rock at least one hundred

and fifty feet in height in one unbroken sheet, falling into a large

reservoir about one third down the whole declivity: hence it wound its

way through the glen for about half a mile farther, when it joined the

main stream. This grand fall was called Beckett's Cataract, in honour of

the Judge Advocate General. It now commenced raining so heavily that we

were obliged to stop on the spot, though by no means an eligible

situation. We had not seen any place where there had been the slightest

possibility of descending; but as we were not many miles from the river

which we crossed on Wednesday last, we knew that this rugged country must

soon end.

September 14.--The weather preventing us from proceeding, parties were

sent out to search the banks of the glen, for a place by which to descend

and cross it. Two of the people traced it up so far as to ascertain that

the river which we had crossed on Wednesday was the same which had so

embarrassed us. It entered the glen in a fall of vast height: above,

there was no difficulty in crossing it, the country being clear and open,

and of moderate height. A kangaroo was chased to this fall, down which he

leapt and was dashed to pieces; like the hero of Wordsworth's "Hartleap

Well." It is wonderful that the dogs escaped the same fate. We had

been also successful in finding a passage nearer to the tent. About a

mile above Beckett's Cataract, a pass was discovered by which we might

descend, and the opposite side appeared equally favourable. It appears

that we have been hitherto deceived respecting the magnitude of the river

which runs through the glen, owing to the vast height from which it was

viewed, and to our being seldom within a mile of it. The geologist would

here have a most interesting field for research, and would doubtless be

enabled to account for those natural phenomena, which, from their

defiance of all rule, perplex us so greatly. These mountains abound with

coal and slate. The dip of the rocks on this side (the north) of the

glen, is about twenty degrees to the west.

September 15.--We first attempted the pass nearest to us, and which was

reported to be practicable. The horses with tolerable ease descended the

first ridge, which was about one third down; but it was impossible to

proceed a step farther with them: indeed we had the utmost difficulty to

get them back again. Three of them actually rolled over, and were saved

only by the trees from being precipitated to the bottom. Quitting this

place, we proceeded up the glen, into which many small streams fell from

the most awful heights, forming so many beautiful cascades. After

travelling five or six miles, we arrived at that part of the river at

which, after passing through a beautiful and level though elevated

country, it is first received into the glen. We had seen many fine and

magnificent falls, each of which had excited our admiration in no small

degree, but the present one so far surpassed any thing which we had

previously conceived even to be possible, that we were lost in

astonishment at the sight of this wonderful natural sublimity, which

perhaps is scarcely to be exceeded in any part of the eastern world. The

river, after passing through an apparently gentle rising and fine

country, is here divided into two streams, the whole width of which is

about seventy yards. At this spot, the country seems cleft in twain, and

divided to its very foundation: a ledge of rocks, two or three feet

higher than the level on either side, divides the waters in two, which,

falling over a perpendicular rock two hundred and thirty-five feet in

height, forms this grand cascade. At a distance of three hundred yards,

and an elevation of as many feet, we were wetted with the spray which

arose like small rain from the bottom: the noise was deafening; and if

the river had been full, so as to cover its entire bed, it would have

been perhaps more awfully grand, but certainly not so beautiful. After

winding through the cleft rocks about four hundred yards, it again falls

in one single sheet upwards of one hundred feet, and continues in a

succession of smaller falls about a quarter of a mile lower, where the

cliffs are of a perpendicular height, on each side exceeding one thousand

two hundred feet, the width at the edges about two hundred yards. From

thence it descends as before described until all sight of it is lost,

from the vast elevation of the rocky hills which it divides and runs

through. The different points of this deep glen seem as if they would fit

into the opposite fissures which form the smaller glens alternately on

either side. The whole is indeed a grand natural spectacle, and is an

indubitable mark of the vast convulsions which this country must at one

period have undergone. The rocks are all slate, the upper romanae of

which are of a light brown colour, rotten, and easily separated. Nearer

the base or surface of the water they are of a dark blue, and of a firmer

texture. The waters are quite discoloured, owing to the nature of the bed

over which they run, the soluble particles of coal among the slate

tinging them a dark brown. This fine fall is not more than five miles

below the place where we crossed the river on the 9th instant, and we

were doubtless prevented from hearing the noise of the waters, by the

numerous smaller falls in the vicinity. This most magnificent fall and

the river itself were respectively named Bathurst and Apsley, in honour

of the Noble Secretary of State for the colonies. Although a week had

elapsed in effecting the passage of this river, we could not consider

it as entirely lost, especially as it enabled us to ascertain that its

direction was to the coast; and we hoped that the nature of the country

would permit us to fix its embouchure.

September 16.--The weather for some days past has been very unseasonable,

cold and tempestuous, with frequent heavy and continued showers of rain:

this remarkable coldness of temperature in such a latitude (31 degrees,)

I cannot but attribute to the considerable elevation of the country above

the sea, being certainly between four and five thousand feet. We

proceeded to the south-east during this day's journey, on purpose to

avoid the broken land in the vicinity of the river. It was good

travelling though hilly: the soil, for the most part, a poor clay; and

the timber not so good or large as usual. There was however much good

land, particularly in the valleys, through every one of which a stream of

water took its course to the river. At twelve miles, we halted on the

banks of a considerable and rapid stream watering an extensive and wide

valley. The many waters which fall into Apsley River must very

considerably increase its magnitude; and I am in hopes after it has

cleared this mountainous tract and we again fall in with it, that we

shall find it a useful as well as fine stream. The river on which we

encamped was named Croker's River, in honour of the First Secretary of

the Admiralty.

September 17.--We proceeded on an easterly course during this day's

journey; and seven miles from Croker's River crossed a smaller stream

running to the north-east. For the first ten miles the country was

very poor and badly timbered, with barren stony hills; but from the

last mentioned stream to our halting-place, at the end of twelve

miles, though the land was hilly the soil was excellent, consisting

of a rich, dark mould. The hills were particularly rich and thickly

clothed with fine timber, blue gum, and stringy bark. We halted

on the side of a hill, from the top of which we could see a great

distance to the north and east. In the first quarter, lofty hills were

seen from eighty to one hundred miles off, and generally very irregular.

To the east the land was elevated, but more divided by sloping valleys,

and we augured that at least for thirty miles in the direction of our

course, we should not meet with any such serious obstruction as the last:

indeed we imagined we could trace the course of the river nearly on a

parallel line with us. We this day saw a solitary native, but I believe

we were indebted for the sight rather to the circumstance of his being

deprived of the use of his limbs than to his boldness or curiosity. Two

or three families had been encamped on the spot where we found him, but

they had all departed. He seemed more astonished than alarmed at the

sight of our cavalcade, and expressed his wonder in a singular succession

of sounds, resembling snatches of a song. His countenance was mild and

pleasing, and was entirely divested of the ferocity we had seen expressed

in the visages of some of his countrymen: he had lost the upper front

tooth, and I think it was probable that he had heard of such beings as

ourselves before. He was a miserable object: several ribs on his left

side had been broken; his back was twisted, which apparently had been

the means of depriving him of the use of his limbs, as no injury could

be discovered about them.

September 18.--During the night and this morning it has continued to blow

a perfect equinoctial storm. We were in constant dread that some of the

branches of the trees which surrounded us would fall on the tent.

Proceeding on our course to the east-north-east, we did not advance above

a mile and a half before a small stream running to the north-east through

a very steep and narrow valley obliged us to alter our course more

southerly, which we did, and soon entered a forest of stringy bark and

blue gum trees of immense size and great beauty. The soil on which they

grew was a rich vegetable mould covered with fern trees [Note: Alsophila

australis of Brown.] and small shrubs. We found that this part of the

country was intersected by deep valleys, the sides of which were clothed

with stately trees, but of what kind we were ignorant: creepers and

smaller timber trees, all of species not previously noticed by us, grew so

extremely thick that we found it impossible to penetrate through them.

We therefore continued along the edge of those valleys, our progress

much impeded by the vast trunks of fallen trees in a state of decay,

some of which were upwards of one hundred and fifty feet long, without

a branch, as straight as an arrow, and from three to eight and ten

feet in diameter. The forest through which we travelled appeared to

be an elevated level or plain, and at three o'clock in the afternoon,

after proceeding three or four miles to the westward, we cleared this

truly primeval forest, and descended into a small valley of open

ground, through which ran the stream we had crossed in the morning.

Indeed we were not more than two miles south of the place we had

quitted. Our hope of proceeding without much interruption was thus

disappointed: the gloominess of the weather, and the constant showers

that fell, so impeded our view and distorted its objects, that what

appeared plain and practicable at a distance of two or three miles, when

approached was found impassable. I think it probable, however, that our

most serious obstructions will be the thickness of the timber, rotten

trees, and creeping plants; the soil is so rich and free from rocks, that

I do not think the steepness of the descents will greatly endanger us.

The wind, which had been extremely violent all day, was now accompanied

by heavy showers; and we thought ourselves extremely fortunate in not

being obliged to encamp in the forest. The storm as the evening advanced

increased to almost a hurricane, with torrents of rain. Since Apsley

River had been ascertained to take a direction coast-wise, the principle

which governed the direction of our course had been to endeavour to make

a port on the coast laid down in lat. 30. 45. S., and which I had an idea

might probably receive this river, now increased by a multitude of smaller

streams, and if so, that it might serve as a point of communication with

the fine country in the interior. It is true this port is marked as a bar

harbour; but I knew that it had never been examined, and I was aware how

possible it was for a harbour to appear closed by a reef from a ship

sailing at a distance along the coast. At all events the point was worth

ascertaining; and notwithstanding the repeated disappointments we had

experienced in attempting a north-easterly course, I shall, if we are

enabled to clear the deep valleys we are at present embarrassed with,

persevere for some time longer. I consider it every way important to know

into what part of the coast these waters are discharged.

September 19.--The storm continued to rage with unabated violence

throughout the night and the whole of this day, accompanied by torrents

of rain and hail: the weather was also extremely cold and bleak; the

thermometer in the mornings and evenings being not more than 5 or 6

degrees above the freezing point: indeed, the season much nearer

resembles the winter of a far more southern latitude than the spring

of lat. 31.

September 20.--Towards the morning the storm abated, but throughout

the day it was dark and gloomy, with passing showers. In the present

state of the weather we did not think it prudent to attempt penetrating

through the thick forests which we knew were before us, and our

horses would be the better for rest. The botanical collector descended

into one of the valleys nearest to us, and found the sides of it

clothed with the timber before mentioned: it was quite new to us. Some

of the flower and seed were procured, as it was generally found in full

flower, which gave these stately trees a richness and beauty I had never

seen equalled. A great variety of other equally interesting plants was

also found, some of them new species of timber. The valleys were of the

richest soil, having a small run of water in their bottoms. Observed the

variation by evening azimuth to be 10. 39. E.

September 21.--With a severe frost, the morning and day were finer than

usual, though the weather was very unsettled. We accomplished seven miles

on a south-east by east course, through a very heavily wooded country;

the timber generally of the best description, and the soil, with some

partial exceptions, was equally good and rich. It was, however, so

thickly covered with ferns and bushes among the trees, with vines running

from them, that in many places we found it difficult to pass. Our course

was accidentally such as to avoid all the deep valleys but two, the

descents of which were extremely difficult. In them strong streams of

water ran to the north-east, no doubt joining the main river. From

the hill over one of the streams near which we halted the coast

line of hills was plainly seen; and we appeared to have but a

rugged journey before us. Our horses too were so extremely weak and

crippled, that the short distance we are enabled to travel is

accomplished with pain and difficulty. We were forced to leave one of

them about a mile and a half from our resting-place, as he was utterly

unable even to walk without his load. which was distributed among the

others. Some natives' fires were seen about two miles to the north-east

of us in the same valley.

September 22.--A dark tempestuous morning. Sent back for the horse we

left yesterday afternoon: he was somewhat recovered, and may perhaps live

to reach the coast, the point whither our hopes have long pointed, and

where I trust the horses will experience some relaxation from their

present incessant but necessary labour. We had no choice in the route we

pursued this day, taking that which appeared most practicable for men and

horses: it was a continued ascending and descending of the most frightful

precipices, so covered with trees and shrubs and creeping vines, that we

frequently were obliged to cut our way through: at the bottom of one of

these, we left the sick horse in a dying state. To add to our

perplexities, it rained incessantly, and was so thick and dark, that

towards evening it was with difficulty we could see sufficient of our way

to avoid being dashed to pieces. About two hours before sunset, after a

descent of upwards of five thousand feet, we found ourselves at the

bottom of the glen, through which ran a small stream; but a passage down

it was impossible, as it fell over rocky precipices to a still greater

depth. The opposite side was a mountain equally steep with the one we had

just descended. The horses were also so weak that it was impossible they

could take their loads up it, and there was no possibility of remaining

on the spot, since there was neither grass nor room even to lie down. All

the heavy baggage was therefore obliged to be left behind, and by

unremitted exertion we were enabled to gain a small spot of ground,

formed by the mountains retiring from the immediate descent to the gulf

below. It was, however, near eight o'clock before this was accomplished;

and we were after all obliged to leave two of the horses below, as all

our attempts to move them were fruitless, even when unladen; a

circumstance which we lamented the more, as they were on a spot that did

not afford a blade of grass. The rain ceasing, was succeeded about nine

o'clock by one of the severest storms of wind I ever remember to have

witnessed; and for the first time perhaps during the journey, we were

alarmed for our personal safety. The howling of the wind down the sides

of the mountain, the violent agitation of the trees, and the crash of

falling branches, made us every instant fear that we should be buried

under the ruins of some of the stupendous trees which surrounded us.

September 23.--Towards midnight the storm abated, and allowed us to pass

the remainder of the night in comparative comfort. The morning broke

fair, and as the state of the horses would not permit us to attempt

ascending the mountain with the baggage to-day, I contented myself with

dispatching them for the provisions left last night at the bottom of the

precipice, and to get up if possible the two remaining horses, whilst Mr.

Evans and myself should explore the range, and endeavour to find out a

somewhat more practicable route. We proceeded to ascend the mountain, the

summit of which was near two miles distant, and in many places extremely

difficult and abrupt. We however remarked on our road seven native huts,

which increased our hopes that these mountains would lead by a

comparatively easy descent to the coast line of country. Bilboa's ecstasy

at the first sight of the South Sea could not have been greater than

ours, when on gaining the summit of this mountain, we beheld Old Ocean at

our feet: it inspired as with new life: every difficulty vanished, and in

imagination we were already at home. We proceeded sufficiently far to

discover, that although our descent would be both difficult and

dangerous, it would not be impracticable. The country between us and the

sea was broken into considerable forest hills and pleasing valleys, down

the principal of which we could distinguish a small stream taking its

course to the sea. To the north and south the country was mountainous and

broken beyond any thing we had seen. Indeed, some idea of those barrier

mountains may be formed from the circumstance, that although we could

distinctly see the ocean, and the waving of the coast line, (which within

the distance of ten or twelve miles from the beach appeared low), yet we

were still nearly fifty miles from it. I estimated the height of this

mountain at between six and seven thousand feet; and yet the country

north and south appeared equally elevated. Numerous smokes arising from

natives' fires announced a country well inhabited, and gave the whole

picture a cheerful aspect, which reflected itself on our minds; and we

returned to the tents with lighter hearts and better prospects. In

removing the baggage left at the bottom of the hill a short quarter of a

mile, a most distressing accident occurred. A mare, one of the strongest

we had, in bringing up a very light load, not a quarter of her usual

burden, and when within one hundred yards of the tent, literally burst

with the violent exertion which the ascent required. In this shocking

state, with her entrails on the ground, she arrived at the tent, when, to

put an end to her agonies, she was shot. This was a serious loss to us,

in addition to that which we suffered on the day before: and three more

horses were so worn, that I scarcely expected to force them along even

unladen. It must not be supposed that we attempted to climb these hills

in a direct line; it would have been scarcely possible for a man to do

it: we wound round them in every practicable direction; and the loose

rich soil of which they were generally composed, together with the

thickness of the timber, by preventing our falling, favoured our

progress. In the course of the afternoon I tried the angle of elevation

and depression on various parts, and found it to be from 30 to 35 and

even 40 degrees. By the same means we found that the mountain which we

had descended yesterday evening exceeded four thousand seven hundred feet

in height on those angles. The mountain we shall have to ascend to-morrow

is very considerably higher; but, with one or two exceptions, the ascents

are not so abrupt. After the provisions were brought up, all hands were

sent to cut a road for the horses through the brushes which surrounded

the bottoms of the steepest ascents, and without which it would have been

impossible for them to pass laden; the vines which crossed each other in

various directions forming an almost impenetrable barrier. It may seem

superfluous to speak of soil and timber among such mountains as these;

yet I will say that except where the rocks presented a perpendicular

face, and along the highest ridges, the soil was light and good. The

timber consisted of blue gum and stringy bark, and forest oak

[Note: Casuarina torulosa.] of the largest dimensions: the gorges of the

valleys were covered with loose small stones, and in those gorges all the

trees which are usually found in places of a similar description

in the district of the Five Islands (with the exception of the red

cedar), were to be met with. The stones and rocks were mixed with

a considerable portion of quartz, and were generally in loose detached

masses of various sizes. The mountain from whence we first saw the ocean

was named Sea View Mount, and I should think might be distinctly seen by

ships at some distance from the coast.

September 24.--At eight o'clock the horses began to ascend the mountain,

and it was twelve before we reached the summit, a distance of exactly two

miles. How the horses descended I scarcely know; and the bare

recollection of the imminent dangers which they escaped, makes me

tremble. At one period of the descent, I would willingly have compromised

for a loss of one third of them, to ensure the safety Of the remainder.

It is to the exertions and steadiness of the men, under Providence, that

their safety must be ascribed. The thick tufts of grass and the loose

soil also gave them a surer footing, of which the men skillfully availed

themselves. The length of the descent was two measured miles and three

quarters, and upon first, an angle of depression of 40 degrees for one

thousand two hundred and fifty-four feet: we then slightly ascended 4 or

6 degrees for four thousand six hundred and twenty, and from thence the

descent, in a continued straight line, to the run of water at the base,

was on the various angles of 28, 32, 35, 40, and 46 degrees, eight

thousand five hundred and eighty feet; from whence I deduce the

perpendicular height to be nearly six thousand feet, which is certainly

underrated. The descent terminated in a very narrow steep valley, down

which we proceeded for near three quarters of a mile, when the small

stream before mentioned joined a very considerable one seen yesterday from

Sea View Mount; and the valley opening, we halted on the banks of the

river on a spot which afforded us plenty of excellent grass, and was in

other respects favourable for that rest which the horses required before

they could resume their journey. One of the horses when about a third down

the mountain was quite incapable of proceeding, we therefore were obliged

to leave him for the night, with the loads of two other horses. It was

past four o'clock before we arrived at our halting-place, having been

exactly three hours and a half in descending.

September 25.--Despatched the men to bring down the horse and the baggage

left on the mountain yesterday. They returned in the afternoon with both,

but the horse was scarcely able to stand. In the course of the day

examined the valley a few miles, when we found that it opened

considerably four or five miles down; the hills previously thereto being

very steep, but covered with grass, and abounding with kangaroos. It was

therefore determined to move farther down the river to-morrow, instead of

remaining here two days as originally proposed. In the present

reduced state of the horses, we were obliged to make short stages with

frequent halts, in hopes of sufficiently recruiting their strength so as

to proceed with greater expedition along the coast.

September 26.--We proceeded between four and five miles down the river,

which was named Hastings River, in honour of the Governor General of

India; the vale gradually opening to a greater width between steep and

lofty hills, the soil on which was very stony, but rich, and covered with

fine grass two or three feet high. At the place where we stopped, small

rich flats began to extend on either side, and confirmed our hopes that

we should find a more regular country as we approached the sea. The route

which we had travelled lay over steep and sharp points of mountains

ending on the river, but did not offer any great obstruction. Yet we were

obliged to leave the horse which had failed the day before, half-way, as

he dropped through utter weakness, though unladen. These valleys and

hills are astonishingly rich in timber of various kinds, many new, and

their botanic supplies were inexhaustible. Indeed our cargo now

principally consists of plants.

September 27.--The morning fine and clear. Sent back for the horse left

yesterday, which with some difficulty was brought to the tent. Observed

our latitude to be 31. 23. 10. S., longitude by estimation 152. 8. E.,

variation 8. 22. E. We this day cleaned all the arms, and put our

military appointments in order to guard against any hostile attempts that

might be made by the natives, who are reported to be in this quarter

numerous and treacherous.

September 28.--As we proceeded down the river, the vale still continued

to open on either hand, the hills receding from each bank of the stream

from two to three miles. The land on the more elevated spots, and

irregular low hills, was strong but of good soil, covered with grass: the

flats which occurred alternately on both sides of the river were very

rich, the grass long and coarse; the timber, blue gum and apple tree. As

the points of the higher hills sometimes closed on the river, we found it

convenient to cross it, which in the course of the day we did no less

than three times. In the hollows of the higher hills were thick brushes

of the same description as those at the Five Islands. About six miles and

a half down the river it was joined by a considerable stream from the

northward, running through a fine and spacious valley. The accession of

this water materially altered the appearance of the river, as it began to

form long and wide reaches, with alternate rapids over a shingly bottom.

The northern stream was named Forbes's River, in honour of the Marquis of

Hastings' nephew. Although our proximity to the sea seemed to preclude

the probability of Hastings River being joined by any other considerable

waters; yet its present size made us a little anxious to find that it had

a serviceable discharge into the ocean. The ground over which we travelled

being very favourable to the weak state of the horses, we accomplished

between eight and nine miles. Kangaroos abounded; four were this day

killed. Marks of flood were observed to the height of sixteen feet,

but the river appeared now to be in its lowest state, and the sides of

the barren mountains showed that there had been no rain of any consequence

for a considerable time.

September 29.--The country we passed through is what is generally known

in New South Wales as open forest land, with occasionally small flats on

the river: steep hills sometimes ended on the river, and north and south

of us were detached ranges of a similar description. The whole face of

the country was abundantly covered with good grass, which, having been

burnt some time, now bore the appearance of young wheat. Six miles down

the river it was joined by a fine stream from the southward, apparently

watering a spacious valley. We crossed this, and named it Ellenborough

River, in honour of the Chief Justice of England. We proceeded about

three miles farther before we halted at the edge of a thick detached

brush [Note: Many very beautiful shrubs inhabit these shaded thickets,

of which the following may serve as a specimen. Tetranthera dealbata,

BROWN'S PRODR.; Cryptocarya glaucescens, BR., genera of laurinae.

The Australian sapota fruit, Achras australis, BR.; Cargillia australis,

a date plum. Myrtus trinervia of Smith, and Ripogonum album, BR.],

which came nearly down to the water's edge. In this brush was a

quantity of fine red cedar trees, affording us reason to hope, that this

valuable wood might, as we advanced to the coast, be found in yet greater

abundance. The timber generally might be termed heavy, consisting of blue

gum, stringy bark, and iron bark, with fine forest oaks. The stones on

the surface of the land were hard and splintery, being principally of

coarse quartz; some hard sandstone was also seen: the rocks in the river

were of a fine dark blue colour, singularly hard and slippery. Although

we had seen no natives, there were abundant signs of them. This season

probably is better calculated for them to procure their food on the coast

than in the woods.

September 30.--Our progress this day was greatly impeded by thick

brushes, which, covering the sides of the hills, ended on the river: some

of them were upwards of a mile in extent, and we were obliged to cut a

road to enable the horses to pass through them. There were several rich

flats on both sides of the river; the hilly projections ending

alternately at the several bends of the stream. The obstruction offered

by the brushes excepted, the road was no wise difficult: the hills were

stony, with rocky summits: the river's course was over large rocks and

pebbles; it was fordable in several places, with intervening deep

reaches. It was late in the afternoon before we had accomplished six

miles, and halting on a flat bounded easterly by extensive brush, I

resolved to cross the river. There appears to be plenty of fish

in it; we caught six fine perch, weighing above two pounds each, in a

very short time. The timber continues heavy and good: we saw however but

little cedar after passing the first brush.

October 1.--Our travelling to-day was nearly the same as yesterday. The

windings of the river were very sudden, and its banks were most generally

covered with a thick brush, which in some places extended back a

considerable distance. Between those brushes the ground was open forest

with good grass, casuarina or beefwood, and large timber: the hills as

usual stony. Near our halting-place a remarkable rocky range of hills was

seen to the east-south-east of great height, and presenting nearly a

perpendicular front to the north-west. Between east-north-east and east by

south, with the imperfect view which we could obtain from the low hills

we were traversing, it appeared but slightly broken, the higher ranges

breaking off to the north-east and south-east, leaving a spacious valley

through which we conjectured the river flowed. Near us were a few cedar

trees, and marks of flood exceeding twenty feet, but confined to the bed

of the river. On the whole we accomplished near eight miles, but scarcely

five were in the direction of the sea, which we still estimate to be from

twenty to twenty-five miles distant in a direct line.

October 2.--In order to avoid the brushes, which lined the banks of the

river, we kept at some distance from it to the south, which led us under

the high rocky peaked hill mentioned yesterday. Our road was however

by no means bettered, and I afterwards regretted that I did not keep

close to the river. It is proper to mention that the brush land

is of the richest description, being composed entirely of vegetable

mould, the produce of decayed trees for ages: it is singularly well

watered; every little valley has its run to the river. A great deal of

cedar was seen to-day, and the more common timber was very large and

good; the forest ridges between the brushes were well clothed with grass.

We have hitherto seen no natives, though they are certainly numerous, as

their frequent recently deserted camps witness: we are not very anxious

for better proof. The leeches in the bushes were very troublesome, and

made many plentiful meals at our expense: this would probably have done

us no great harm, but the wounds which they made usually festered and

became painful sores. Our botanical collector ascended the peaked hill on

our left, and had a most extensive prospect. The river, winding a

few miles below our station of this evening, was distinctly seen to the

coast, which he did not estimate to be above fifteen or eighteen miles

off. The account which he gave of the interesting prospect, and the

circumstance of its being the only eminence between us and the coast from

whence any object could be distinguished, determined me to ascend it the

ensuing morning, and ascertain the principal points in this beautiful

country. We travelled this day in the whole near six miles in an

east-south-east course, the horses being very weak, and a road needing to

be cut for them nearly the whole way, the last mile excepted, which was

open forest land.

October 3.--Soon after daylight, accompanied by the botanist, I returned

to the peaked hill, leaving the horses with Mr. Evans to proceed to the

north-east. Certainly a more beautiful and interesting view is not often

seen. The spacious valley, through which the river flowed, extends along

the coast from Smoaky Cape to the Three Brothers, and its width north of

me was above eight miles, gradually narrowing to the base of Sea View

Mount where we first entered it, and which bore west by north. Wide and

extensive valleys stretched to the west-south-west, and south-south-west,

under its base on either side, the hills in which were of moderate

height, and of open forest land. To the north by east, though high land

was seen at a distance of near sixty miles, the general face of the

country was low with moderate and regular elevations, the highest lands

being immediately behind the capes and projecting points into the sea.

But the object that most interested me in this extensive survey was the

appearance of the river: at a distance of seven or eight miles north-east

of me, it opened into wide reaches extending to the sea, which it seemed

after a winding course to enter nearly east, or in about the situation

assigned by Captain Flinders to a lake across the entrance of which

there appears to be a bar. The country on its banks, and within the

limits before mentioned, appeared very brushy and low; the banks

themselves seeming to be the highest ground. I conjectured that

the river's extending itself to such a considerable breadth, was

probably caused by the tide-water; and I could not help entertaining the

strongest hope from its appearance that it would prove navigable,

whatever its entrance might be. To the north of the river, a few miles

from it, appeared lagoons, or swamps, probably having some beach

communication with the sea. Another large lake was also seen to the

south-east, under the Three Brothers. Several other small patches I

thought might possibly prove to be marshes between my station and the

coast; the country in its immediate vicinity appearing too low to afford

drainage. Descending the hill, I proceeded after the horses, passing for

nearly three miles through a good open forest country; the timber large,

with numerous casuarinae. At the entrance of a brush I met the horses

returning, having been prevented from continuing their easterly course by

a large tea-tree swamp, full of water. We therefore pursued a more

northerly course, with the hope and intention of making the river near

the wide reaches, which I had seen from the hill. From the forest land we

immediately entered a thick brush, and after cutting our way for near two

miles, the evening advancing, I thought it best to send back the horses

to the forest land, where there was plenty of grass, and proceeded myself

with some men to cut the road to the river; an object, which in about

another mile we effected. We happened to make it near the spot wished for.

The tide was going out, the water having fallen near three feet; though

not perfectly good it was drinkable, and would doubtless be sweet at

low-water. A small island here divides the river into two branches: below

the island the water appeared very deep, as did also the north side of the

island. Its breadth might be nearly a quarter of a mile; both banks were

very thick of brush, and the soil rich. About three quarters of a mile

down the reach, the bank on the southern side appears to become a little

more open, and, as I intended halting tomorrow, I determined to cut a road

to it, and clear the way as far as possible down the banks before we

proceeded on Monday. Our distance from this spot to the coast line did

not exceed eight or ten miles. It was nearly dark before we returned to

the place which we had fixed to encamp on, amidst abundance of fine grass

and good water.

October 4.--We could distinctly hear, during the night, the murmurs of

the surf on the beach, and the sound was most grateful to our ears, as

the welcome harbinger of the point to which eighteen weeks of anxious

pilgrimage had been directed. I accompanied the men who had been

appointed to cut the road along the banks of the river. We had performed

about a mile when we were stopped by a large stream from the southward. It

was therefore necessary to carry the road along the banks, which we did

for nearly two miles, when we left of for the day and returned to our

tent. I caused the main branch of the river to be sounded near the

junction of the southern branch which I had named King's River,

(after my friend who is now surveying the coast of this continent),

and found, at one third ebb, four fathoms. King's River appeared equally

deep, and was about one hundred yards broad; the water at this time of the

tide brackish: the country covered with brush, the soil very rich; and a

few ceder trees were scattered among the other timber. The vines were of

enormous size, and in many instances had entirely enveloped the trees to

which they had attached themselves, a small part of their trunks only

being here and there visible.

October 5.--Sent a party to cut the road up King's River. After advancing

between four and five miles, a small piece of forest ground was

discovered, which determined me to remove the horses and baggage thither,

since the distance which the people had to go to their work occasioned

much delay. A great many natives' canoes were seen on the river to-day

fishing, and as the use of these canoes to cross King's River would have

been very desirable, we endeavoured to tempt their owners to visit us,

but without success; it being out of our power to make them understand

our meaning.

October 6.--We set out this morning with an intention of proceeding up

the west bank of King's River by the road already cut, but before we had

arrived at it, two natives in a canoe were induced to cross over to us.

Their vessel we detained, making them a present of a tomahawk. The moment

they saw one of the horses (which happened to be a white one), descending

the bank for the purpose of being unladen, they made signs expressive of

their idea, that we were going to put the horses in the canoe,

which they immediately quitted and swam to the opposite shore. As it was

extremely probable that many smaller branches would fall into King's

River, I determined to cross it at its mouth, and so proceed along the

banks of the main river. It was two o'clock before we had got every thing

over, when, upon examining the road which we had to travel, we found that

about half a mile lower down another small stream joined the river. To

this latter stream we therefore cut a road, keeping the canoe for farther

use. By its means we found that after we should cross this last stream,

we should get into an open forest country, with good grass: and we hoped

that we should meet with no farther obstructions in our progress, which

the thickness of the country and the intersection of streams rendered

extremely tedious. The river at low-water was sufficiently fresh for us

to drink. From the limited observations I was enabled to make, the depth

at that time of tide was from two to three fathoms, and the rise of tide

was five feet: but the tides appeared very irregular, being evidently

influenced by the great body of fresh water in the river. What land we saw

or passed over was a rich vegetable mould; the brush extremely thick on

both sides, with fine timber of various kinds. I do not think the higher

forest ground was more than a mile or two back from us. King's River, and

that which we shall cross tomorrow, are formed by numerous smaller runs

of water from the valleys in the higher grounds to the southward and

south-west.

October 7.--We crossed the small stream mentioned yesterday, by the

help of our friendly canoe, in safety. The horses however having had

little or nothing to eat the night preceding, I halted for a couple of

hours to refresh them. The horse which had been so weakly, that nothing

but the short stages we were obliged to make enabled him to keep up with

us, in crossing the stream landed on a small muddy patch, dry at low

water: here he fell, and all our efforts were unavailing to carry him to

the forest-land, where I intended to leave him for the chance of

recovery. To prevent a more lingering death, I now caused him to be shot.

We afterwards proceeded near four miles, through an excellent open forest

country, with low rising hills well watered, and plenty of good grass and

timber. We halted near a large lagoon, deriving its source from springs

in the valleys southerly and south-west, having an outlet to the river,

which having bent considerably to the north-westward, we have not

seen since we quitted its banks this morning. The weather for some days

back has been remarkably fine, and we find the brushes a great protection

from the heat of the sun, which is now becoming very powerful.

October 8.--We proceeded on our course, passing over for upwards of three

miles a good and open country: the river three or four miles north of us.

We soon afterwards came to a very large fresh water lagoon on our left,

several miles in circumference, with smaller branches from the valleys,

which emptied itself into the river: its point of discharge we could not

discern. At five miles we were stopped by a large run of fresh water,

which, from its proximity to the sea, we conjectured fell into the lower

part of the harbour. At this place we were obliged to construct a bridge,

which we did by two o'clock, sufficiently large and strong to take over

the laden horses. During the time we were thus employed, we heard the

natives' call close to us; and, on being answered, they immediately

presented themselves to the number of ten, taking great care to show us,

by lifting up their hands and clapping them together, that they were

perfectly unarmed. Seeing them not disposed to approach near us, I went

towards them, when they all retired to a greater distance except three or

four, among whom I recognised the young man from whom we had borrowed the

canoe. I made them several presents of fish hooks, and kangaroo skins,

but could not get them to approach within a hundred yards of us. After a

short interval I left them, and mounting a horse, they on seeing me

took to their heels and ran as for their lives. They were all handsome,

well-made men, stout in their persons, and showing evident signs of

good living. Crossing this run, we passed over an excellent and rich

country; alternately thick brush and clear forest, with small streams

of water for near four miles more, when, to our great joy and

satisfaction, we arrived on the sea-shore about half a mile from

the entrance of what we saw (with no small pleasure), formed a port

to the river which we had been tracing from Sea View Mount. Thus,

after twelve weeks travelling over a country exceeding three hundred

and fifty miles, in a direct line from the Macquarie River, without

a single serious fatality, we had the gratification to find that

neither our time nor our exertions had been uselessly bestowed; and we

trusted that the limited examination, which our means would allow us to

make of the entrance of this port, would ultimately throw open the whole

interior to the Macquarie River, for the benefit of British settlers. We

pitched our tent upon a beautiful point of land, having plenty of good

water and grass; and commanding a fine view of the interior of the port

and surrounding country. I purpose to remain here until Monday, by which

period I expect to be enabled to complete (as far as possible, without the

assistance of boats), the examination of the harbour's mouth.

October 11.--Our time for these last two days has been occupied in

making a sketch of the entrance into the river, and, as far as our

limited means would permit, in ascertaining its capability to receive

small vessels. The entrance between the sand-rollers and over the

bay appeared sufficiently deep for vessels whose draught of water might

not exceed ten or twelve feet; and when within the bar, a deeper though

narrow channel seemed to afford safe means of communication with part of

the country traversed by us, on the 3rd and 4th inst. The nature of the

country in the immediate vicinity of this port and river has already been

described; and should the channel, which, as far as we are able to judge,

appears safe and sufficiently deep, hereafter prove to be so, I indulge

the hope, that the knowledge we have obtained will be beneficial to the

interests of the colony; and facilitate the settlement of a rich and

valuable tract of country. The natives in the vicinity of the port

appeared very numerous: they kept, however, on the other side of

the harbour, and seemed by no means inclined to have closer communication

with us. We however prevailed on four young men to come over; and by

making them small presents of hooks, lines, etc., this shyness has soon

worn off. They were evidently acquainted with the use of fire-arms; if

any of the people took up a musket they immediately ran off, and it was

only by laying it down that they could he prevailed upon to return,

showing by every simple means in their power their dread of its

appearance.

The port abounds with fish: the sharks were larger and more numerous

than I ever before observed in any place. We caught one very large

one, which we offered to the natives, but they would not touch it.

making signs that it would make them ill: our people however found no

bad effects from eating it.

The forest hills and other rising grounds in the neighbourhood are

covered with large kangaroos; and the marshes, which in some places

border on the port, afford shelter and support to innumerable wild fowl.

Independent of Hastings River, the whole country is generally

well-watered, and there is a fine spring at the very entrance into the

port.

I named this inlet, Port Macquarie, in honour of His Excellency the

Governor, the original promoter of these expeditions.

October 12.--We quitted Port Macquarie at an early hour on our course

homewards, with all those feelings which that word even in the wilds of

Australia can inspire. We kept at a distance from the sea shore for

nearly six miles; the country was exceedingly rich, the timber large

with frequent brushes. Just before we came on the beach, we observed an

extensive freshwater lagoon, running for several miles behind the beach,

bounded on the west by forest land of good appearance; a strip of sandy

land about three quarters of a mile wide dividing it from the sea. At the

back of Tacking Point rises a small stream of fresh water, which flows

into the lagoon. The country is of moderate height. After travelling near

fifteen miles, we stopped at the extremity of a sandy beach on a point

of good land, with an excellent spring of water rising on it, about four

miles north of the northernmost of the Three Brothers. Tacking Point,

bearing N. 25 1/4 E. Two of our remaining three dogs, had been for the

last two days deprived of the use of their limbs: one died this morning;

the other, we brought on horseback with us, willing, if possible,

to save the life of a valuable and faithful servant. We conjecture

that something they had eaten in the woods must have caused so universal

a paralysis.

October 13.--Crossing the point of land on which we had been encamped, we

came to a sandy beach, on which we travelled three miles and a half. At

the end of it was an opening safe for boats, (and probably for small

craft at high water), into an extensive lake. As we had no canoe by which

to cross over, we were obliged to keep along its north shore with an

intention of going round it. The lake formed a large basin with a deep

channel, which as it approached the base of the northern Brother narrowed

into a river-like form, and in the course of a mile it again expanded

from the north-north-west to the south-west, to a very great extent. The

land on its eastern side was low and marshy (fresh water). To the north

and north-west, it was bounded by low forest hills covered with luxuriant

grass; and to the southward and south-west extended along apparently the

same description of country, nearly to the western base of the

Second Brother. The ranges of high, woody hills laid down by Captain

Flinders dwindle when approached into low unconnected forest hills. The

Northern Brother, the highest of the three, is a long hill of moderate

elevation, and is seen from such a distance in consequence of the other

parts of the country being comparatively low. The timber was chiefly

black butted gum [Note: Species of eucalyptus], stringy bark, turpentine

tree, and forest oak [Note: Casuarina torulosa]. The stones are chiefly

a hard sandstone. On the lake were great numbers of black swans,

ducks, etc. Various small inlets from the lake much impeded us,

and after travelling near seven miles along its shores, we halted for

the evening near a small spring of fresh water, in a good rising grass

country. The easternmost highest part of the North Brother was S. 4. W.

From the observed amplitude of the sun at rising this morning, the

variation was found to be 9. 33. E.

October 14.--We were considerably delayed in our progress this day by

salt water inlets, which occasioned us much trouble to cross, and at

length we were altogether stopped by a very wide and deep one, near the

west end of the lake: it was too late in the day to take any measures

for crossing it this evening; we therefore pitched our tents on the banks

near a swamp of fresh water which borders on it and the lake, from which

we were distant about one mile and a half. The inlet was brackish, and

must have a considerable body of fresh water near its head. In our route

we had disturbed a large party of natives, some of whom were busily

employed in preparing bark for a new canoe. There were several canoes on

the lake, in which they all fled in great confusion; leaving their arms

and utensils of every description behind them. One of the canoes was

sufficiently large to hold nine men, and resembled a boat; of course we

left their property untouched, though we afterwards regretted we did not

seize one of their canoes, which we might easily have done. We however

determined to send back in the morning for the unfinished canoe, and try

our skill in completing it for use. The ground passed over for the last

six miles was hilly and very stony, but covered with excellent timber of

all descriptions, and also good grass. There were plenty of kangaroos, but

we had but one dog able to run; so that we succeeded in killing only a

small one.

October 15.--A party was sent back early this morning to secure the

canoe, while we examined the river. The people returned in the course of

the forenoon unsuccessful, as the natives had removed it with all their

effects in the course of the night, throwing down and destroying their

guniahs or bark huts. We also found that about a mile higher up the

river, a branch from it joined that which we last crossed about two

miles back, making an island of the ground we were upon. The main

branch continued to run to the north-north-west, and north-west.

We therefore lost no time in returning part of the way to the entrance

into the haven, (which we named after Lord Camden), where we proposed

to construct a canoe. The natives seem very numerous, but are shy:

we saw many large canoes on the lake, one of which would be quite

sufficient for our purposes.

October 18.--On Friday we returned to the entrance of the haven, and

immediately commenced our endeavours to construct a canoe: our first

essays were unsuccessful, but by Saturday night we had a bark one

completed, which we hoped would answer our purpose; though I think if the

natives saw it they would ridicule our rude attempts. This morning, the

ebb tide answering, we commenced transporting our luggage, and in three

hours every thing was safe over. A very serious misfortune however

occurred in swimming the horses across: two of them were seized with the

cramp near the middle of the channel, one with difficulty gained the

shore, the other sank instantly and was seen no more; he was one of our

best and strongest horses, and even now their weak state can ill afford a

diminution in their number. This haven appears to have a perfectly safe

entrance for boats and small craft at all times of tide, except at dead

low water with a strong surge from the eastward, when it slightly breaks,

but is still quite safe for boats if not for larger vessels. When we were

in it, there appeared a safe and deep channel through the sand shoals

which spread over it: the channel also appeared deep leading into the

inner haven. There is plenty of fresh water in swamps, on almost every

part of the shore on which we were. The higher lands abound with good

timber, the points nearest the sea being covered with Banksia

integrifolia, of large dimensions, fit for any kind of boat timber. It is

high water full and change at ten minutes after nine, and the tide

appears to rise between four and six feet. From a point near the

entrance, several bearings were taken; and we also saw another large

lake, or perhaps fresh water lagoon, Under the southernmost of the Three

Brothers. A sunken rock was also discovered off to sea, lying upwards of

two miles from the next point southerly of us, and bearing S. 5. W.:

a deep clear channel lies between it and the shore. At one o'clock we

departed, and by sunset had accomplished near fourteen miles of our

journey. We saw the large lake under the Brothers from a high point on

the coast very clearly, and found that on the north it was bounded by the

North Brother, and separated from the sea by a strip of low marshy land

about three quarters of a mile wide. This lake I think is a fresh water

one: it was named Watson Taylor's Lake. The country west and southerly of

the Brothers consisted of low forest hills; and a range of hills of

moderate height, the entrance of which bore west-south-west distant

twenty or twenty-five miles, ended near Cape Hawke, the country

being to that range very low with marshes. A strip of sandy land

half a mile wide bounds the shore, on which is good grass and water.

On the beach where we halted we found a small boat nearly buried in

the sand, but quite perfect. It had belonged to a Hawkesbury vessel,

belonging to one Mills, which had been lost some time ago, and the

crew of which perished. We halted on the beach, the South Brother

bearing W. 32. N., and the Reef N. 53 1/2. E., and which we now saw

extended near three quarters of a mile north and south, and lying two

marine miles from the shore. It appears dangerous, since in fine weather

(as to-day) the north part of the reef only breaks occasionally.

October 19.--Proceeded on our journey up the coast: on attempting to cut

off a point of land which would have saved us a distance of some miles,

we found that the low part of the country was an entire fresh water

swamp, interspersed with thick barren brushes, in all respects resembling

the country between Sydney and Botany Bay. We therefore returned again on

the beach, and crossing nearer to the point in question found the remains

of a hut, which had evidently been constructed by Europeans, the saw and

axe having been employed on it. About four miles farther on the beach,

towards Cape Hawke, our progress was stopped by a very extensive inlet,

the mouth of which was nearly a mile wide. It was near high water, and the

sea broke right across with tremendous violence, affording us little hope,

circumstanced as we were, of being able to effect a passage. As we had

always experienced the difficulty, not to say impracticability of

attempting to go round such inlets as these. we stopped about half

a mile inside the entrance, on a spot affording good grass and water

for the horses, the greater part of which were entirely knocked up;

insomuch that I began to fear we would take very few of them to

Newcastle. It being early in the day, a party proceeded to explore

the shores of the inlet, to ascertain if it was possible for us to

proceed round it. After several hours' examination, and walking from

six to eight miles, we were obliged to give up all intention of

proceeding circuitously; and found that our efforts must be directed

to effect a passage near the entrance, since numerous fresh water

runs having their source in deep and impassable swamps or lagoons,

presented an insurmountable barrier to the horses. The main inlet

extended in two wide and extensive branches to the south-west and west,

the termination of which could not be seen, the water being apparently

deep; and the country to the westward rising into forest hills. In this

perplexing situation, with no other prospect before us but that of

effecting our own passage in a bark canoe, and being obliged to leave the

horses behind us; since the width of the channel (which at low water we

had the satisfaction to perceive did not exceed a quarter of a mile)

and the extreme rapidity of the tide, which ran at the rate of at

least three miles per hour, precluded all reasonable hope that,

in their present weak state, they would have strength to swim over.

In this state, the boat which had been washed on the beach suddenly

occurred to us. It was true that we were twelve or fourteen miles

distant from it, and that we should have to carry her that distance

on men's shoulders, but to persons in our situation such difficulties

were as nothing. It was therefore determined that twelve men should

depart before day, and use their efforts to bring her to the tent,

whilst those that remained to take care of the horses and baggage should

be preparing materials to give her such repair as must necessarily be

required. We had now fully experienced how little dependance can be

placed on the best marine charts, to show all the inlets and openings

upon an extensive line of coast. Perhaps no charts can be more accurate

than those published by Captain Flinders, the situation of the principal

headlands and capes, with the direction of the coast, being laid down

with the most minute attention to truth; but the distance at which he was

obliged to keep, although it did not prevent him from laying the coast

line down with an accuracy of outline sufficient for all nautical

purposes, did not allow him to perceive openings which, though doubtless

of little consequence to shipping, yet present the most serious obstacles

to travellers by land; and of which, if they had been laid down in the

chart, I should have hesitated to have attempted the passage without

some assistance from the seaward, or means wherewith to have constructed

boats. From our station on the north shore of the inlet, the extreme

of Cape Hawke bore south 7 1/2. W., and the highest part of the

Southern Brother, north 161. W.: a break in the land between high

ranges of hills bore west, and was distant from seventeen to twenty

miles. Black swans are very numerous on this inlet: few marks of

the natives having remained here for any time were observed, at least on

this side; recent marks of two men having traversed the shore being all

that were seen.

October 20.--At four o'clock the people set out to bring the boat, and at

two o'clock they had brought her safely to the tent, having gone in that

time upwards of twenty-six miles, thirteen of which they carried a twelve

feet boat on their shoulders; a proof how much may be effected by a

steady perseverance. In fact, I had no occasion to be anxious for the

result of any measure which at all depended on their personal exertions.

We had the satisfaction to find that the boat would be easily repaired,

wanting little besides caulking and oars, and we did not lose a moment in

commencing the necessary operations. It has blown a gale of wind from the

south all day, the surge breaking across the inlet with extreme violence:

within the bar the water is very deep, and in moderate weather at flood

tides there is doubtless a boat passage over the bar; for, notwithstanding

the break, there appears a sufficient depth of water. Whatever channel

there may be is on the north side of the entrance. I think, from the

height of the rise of tide (between four and seven feet), and the

rapidity with which it runs, that this inlet must penetrate a very

considerable distance into the country; and probably the lake which

we took to be fresh water under the two Southern Brothers, may be a

principal branch of this lake. It appears to be high water at the full

and change at about forty minutes after nine.

October 22.--Yesterday was employed in giving the boat such repairs as

our means permitted. Before six o'clock this morning we had transported a

good part of the baggage, when, the tide answering, we began towing the

horses over, which we safely effected by half past eight. I consider the

discovery of this boat most providential, for without its assistance we

should never have been able to transport the horses: being obliged to

cross near the entrance, the force of the tide and their own weakness

would have swept them among the breakers, and they would consequently

have perished. We lost no time in pursuing our journey up the coast, and

had by four o'clock accomplished six miles, when, to our great

mortification, another inlet barred our progress. The southerly gale.

attended with incessant rain, had by this time increased to such a

degree, that we could take no steps this evening to cross it. By the time

the tents were pitched every thing was drenched with rain; and I think

we felt the cold it occasioned more severely than on any similar

occasion. I should be of opinion that this inlet communicated with

the one we last crossed, as branches from each take such courses

as would, I think, cause them to unite. The last inlet was named

Harrington Lake, in honour of the noble earl of that title.

October 23.--The storm continued through the night. Late in the morning

we had intervals of fine weather, when all our strength was immediately

despatched to bring up our little boat, as we found that we could not

cross without its aid. When the people returned with the boat, it blew

with such violence that we dared not venture to cross in her. We however

moved a little nearer the point of entrance, to be more conveniently

situated when the weather should clear up. The men voluntarily undertook

to carry the boat on their shoulders until we should pass Port

Stephens--a service, reduced as their strength was by constant exertion,

I should have been unwilling to impose on them, however it might

facilitate our future progress.

October 24.--The weather was so extremely unfavourable (blowing in

violent squalls with almost constant rain), that it was near dark before

we got every thing safely over. I had sent on in the morning to examine

the beach for a few miles, and another inlet was discovered about four

miles in advance. We named this lake Farquhar's Lake, after Sir Walter.

October 25.--From the southern point of entrance into this lake the

following bearings were taken. The highest part of the South Brother,

north 6. E.; ditto North Brother, north 18. E.; Cape Hawke, south 3. E.

We set forward at our usual hour. At a mile along the beach we found the

wreck of a small vessel, which was recognised to be the Jane, of Sydney,

belonging to Mills, before mentioned as the owner of the boat in our

possession. It being low water when we arrived at the lagoon seen

yesterday, we crossed it at the mouth, without unlading the horses. We

proceeded along the beach for six or seven miles farther, when we turned

off to the westward to cut off a point of land, and entered an excellent

rising forest country, with rich thick brushes, bordering the coast line.

We travelled in the whole about nine miles and a half, and halted about

three quarters of a mile from the beach, from a point of which (one mile

south-south-east of us), we saw Cape Hawke bearing east 73. S., distant

six or eight miles; and at the extremity of a long curving sandy beach,

about six miles west of the same point, there was an opening which, from

the appearance of the country, we thought might probably form a lake.

October 26.--Two miles and a half farther travelling brought us again on

the beach, along which we went for near seven miles more, when the

opening or lake seen from the point yesterday obliged us to make use of

our boat. On the opposite side to us we saw the wreck of the brig

Governor Hunter, now nearly covered with sand, at high water the

tide washing over her. We had got the horses and great part of the

luggage safely over, and I was on the point of setting out to look

for a place to turn the horses on (the immediate margin of the bay

being a swampy brush); when an alarm was given, that the natives

had speared one of the people. Previous to crossing, we had seen them in

great numbers on the side opposite to us, probably to the amount of

seventy of all ages; but on seeing us launch our boat, they got into

canoes and went two or three miles farther up the lake, still keeping on

the south side. On the north side we did not see any natives, and

although on both sides of the lake we were prepared for them, had they

shown themselves in numbers on the beach, yet all were not on their guard

against individual treachery. One of the men, William Blake, had entered

the brushes about a hundred yards from the rest of the people on the

north side, with the design of cutting a cabbage palm: he had cut one

about half through, when he received a spear through his back, the point

of it sticking against his breast bone. On turning his head round to see

from whence he was attacked, he received another, which passed several

inches through the lower part of his body: he let fall the axe with which

he was cutting, and which was instantly seized by a native, the only one

he saw; and it was probably the temptation of the axe that was the

principal incitement to the attack. Blake was immediately put into

the boat and sent over to the south side, where the doctor was,

who fortunately succeeded in extracting both the spears; but from

the nature of the wounds, his chance of recovery was considered

very doubtful. It was so late before every thing was got over,

that we were obliged to remain on the spot close to the wreck of

the Governor Hunter. The natives before dark had assembled in great

numbers, and we could count twelve or fourteen fires from their

camps. United as we were, we had little to fear from their attacks,

particularly in the night; and we remained so short a time at any place,

that we did not give them time to make any concerted attack. The country

west and south-west of this lagoon is rising forest land of pleasant

appearance; but the shores are flat, with thick brushes and steep fresh

water swamps. The lagoon itself is at low water nothing but a sand shoal,

with narrow and shallow channels. The surf beats quite across the

entrance, and though at high water a small vessel might beat over the

bar, it would be a mere chance if she escaped being lost upon the

sand-rollers inside, the surf breaking with a flood tide and easterly

wind full half a mile within the outer bar. The tides run near four miles

per hour, and the rise is from five to eight feet. From the south side of

the entrance into the lake the highest part of the North Brother bore

north 15. E.; ditto of the South Brother, north 8. 10. E. The point of

land of the bay northerly, distant seven or eight miles north 8. 30. E.;

and a high bluff point or projection southerly, north 163. 30. E.

October 27.--We did not make much progress this day, being greatly

embarrassed by the thick brushes which border on the coast in the

vicinity of Cape Hawke, and fresh water swamps near the edge of the lake.

There was, however, a good deal of forest land, and the brushes grew in

good soil. We halted in the afternoon, having gone only four miles (Cape

Hawke bearing east distant two miles and a half), on a piece of forest

land surrounded by brush, through which, however, in the course of the

evening we cut a road to the beach, to the southward of Cape Hawke. From

a hill on that line we saw that the lake was much more extensive than it

was first supposed to be, reaching in a southerly direction to the base

of the forest hills, which run a north-west line from the next point of

south of Cape Hawke, and within a quarter of a mile of the beach. To the

north-west we could trace it upwards of twenty miles, winding among

forest hills and a generally fine looking country. The lake was studded

with numerous islands of forest lands, the interior of the lake being

apparently deep water with sandy beaches to the main and islands. The

whole appearance of the lake was extremely picturesque and beautiful.

October 28.--This day's journey afforded tolerably good travelling,

with the exception of the last two miles, when, quitting the beach,

we ascended a high hill over the lake, and again descended to a

small bay under a point of land south of Cape Hawke, where we halted for

the evening: having accomplished ten miles. Although we were obliged to

halt the greater part of the day, the extreme heat of the weather,

combined with the motion of the horse, rendered it impossible for our

poor wounded man to proceed. From this point Cape Hawke bore North Peak

on Ditto 357., highest part of the South Brother, N. 1. E.; North Brother,

N. 7. E.; line of coast westerly, N. 306.; a point N. 328 1/2 mile;

ditto N. 136 1/2. E.; ten or twelve chains islet of Sugarloaf Point,

N. 168. The rocks off ditto, N. 173. Sugarloaf Point, 174 1/2.

October 29.--The coast projecting into bold and perpendicular headlands

obliged us to keep at a distance from it, and travel over an elevated

range, from whence we saw that an extensive series of lakes, probably

forming one large one, continued at the back of the coast line nearly

as far as Blackhead. At five miles we descended from the range on a

small beach which terminated our day's journey; the nature of the

coast line preventing us from travelling along it. I therefore went

with two men to mark out a road for the horses to the beach on the

south-west side of Sugarloaf Point. The line we were obliged to pursue,

led us through a most miserable scrubby country, formed into irregular

steep hills of white sand, without a blade of grass, or herbage of any

kind; but with abundance of small black butted gums, red gums, etc. We

found the road across, to be too far for us to attempt this evening.

Indeed it was near sunset when I returned to the tent. The natives

are extremely numerous along this part of the coast; these extensive

lakes, which abound with fish, being extremely favourable to their

easy subsistence: large troops of them appear on the beaches, whilst

their canoes on the lakes are equally numerous. In the morning their

fires are to be observed in every direction: they evidently appear

to shun us, and we have no wish for a farther acquaintance. When we

stopped for the night, the lake was only separated from the sea by

a narrow neck of sand, and at spring tides, with an easterly wind,

it must be forced over it. This neck of sand appears likely to be

occasionally washed away, and to form a shallow opening into this

portion of the lake. Its principal entrance I expect to find southerly;

we however observed no tides in it, which makes us conclude it will

have but a shoal entrance. From this point, the Sugarloaf Point,

and island of it in one, bore N. 14 1/2, and the direction of the

lake was N. 275.

October 30.--We passed for five miles and a half through the country

described yesterday, when we arrived on the beach south-west of the

Sugarloaf Point. The rock off ditto bearing N. 88. E.; Shoal of ditto,

120., and Blackhead, N. 212 1/2; we went nearly six miles farther

on the beach, and halted near a rocky point for the evening. This

beach was a peculiarly productive one to us; a great number of fine

fish resembling salmon, had been pursued through the surf by larger

fish, and were left dry by the retiring tide: we picked up thirty-six,

and a welcome prize they proved to us. We had just got the tents

pitched, when a number of unarmed natives appeared upon the hill

near us, and among them a woman and a child. As they came in peace, so in

peace were they received. They approached the tents without any

hesitation, and in the course of an hour, their numbers amounted to

upwards of thirty, men, women, and children. Most of these people seemed

to have been at Newcastle, and appeared a friendly and peaceable set. We

did all in our power to continue these good dispositions by shaving the

men, cutting the hair of the children, and bestowing on them such little

articles as we could spare; not without a hope, that our kindness might

be of service to others, who might under different circumstances be

thrown among them. They were so far from showing the least jealousy of

their women, that every circumstance indicated that their favours might

be purchased: however that may be, we did not avail ourselves of this

privilege. Kindling their fires close to our tents, they seemed to have

taken up their quarters for the night. The weather had appeared to

threaten rain, and as they all departed about ten o'clock, it was

attributed to the circumstance of their being without shelter; and we

expected a friendly visit from them in the morning. From this station,

Blackhead bore N. 197.; and the island off Sugarloaf Point, N. 70. E.

The peak over the north entrance into Port Stephens, N. 211.

October 31.--The rain of the night still continuing in the morning,

and the tide not being sufficiently low to let us pass round the head,

we did not set off so early as usual. Dr. Harris and Mr. Evans had

gone to bathe near the point, and within one hundred and fifty yards

of the tent. Mr. Evans had already bathed and had began to dress

himself, when four natives, whom we recognised as being among those

whom we had treated so kindly yesterday, made their appearance with

their spears in their hands, in the attitude of throwing them from

the cliffs above. There was scarcely time to parley with them, when

a spear was thrown at Mr. Evans, Dr. Harris having leaped down the

rock into the sea, and escaped to the tent under its shelter. The

spear fortunately missed Mr. Evans, and he likewise escaped with the

loss of his clothes, by following the doctor's example. On the alarm

being given they were pursued, but they had disappeared among the

brush on the hill. This instance of their treachery redoubled our

circumspection, and our situation here being favourable for their

attacks, I determined to pass over the brow of the hill with the

horses--a road which from its extreme steepness, I had been willing

to avoid by waiting for the tide; and orders were given to collect

the horses and proceed on our route. Whilst this was doing, and as

I was sitting in the tent with Dr. Harris and Mr. Evans writing

this Journal, a shower of spears from the height above was thrown at the

tent, one of which passed directly over my shoulder, and entered the

ground at my feet: the others lodged around the tent, and among the

people who were getting ready the baggage, but providentially without

doing any harm. We had stationed men to watch the hill, but the

appearance of the natives and the flight of their spears was so

instantaneous, that they had not time to alarm us. To enable us therefore

to proceed in safety it was necessary to clear the hill, which was soon

done; for on our ascending that hill, they took their station on another

more distant. We travelled unmolested along the beach for upwards of

twelve miles, when we halted for the evening on a small point of clear

land, which at high water was an island. Here we found ourselves secure:

we had however but just unladen, when three natives were seen coming

along the beach from the side of Port Stephens. We knew that the party

which had behaved so treacherously had gone that way, and we suspected

that these men were sent to see whether we were disposed to resent their

conduct: they appeared unarmed, each holding up a fish as a peace

offering to us: but when they were within three hundred yards of us, they

stopped, and not receiving any encouragement from us to advance,

after halting a few minutes, they returned with all speed along

the beach to their companions. I had determined if they had approached

nearer to have made an example of them: and for the future, never to

suffer them to come near us at all. I was very much surprised to

find that Blackhead proved to be an island, with a good passage, at

least a mile and a half wide, between it and the main. There appears

excellent anchorage and shelter under it, and indeed it seems a far

better and more convenient roadstead than Port Stephens, being safe

from all winds, with a passage either from north or south. The relative

positions of the points and islands on this part of the coast, by no

means correspond with, nor does the longitude of Port Stephens

agree with that assigned to Sugarloaf Point by Captain Flinders, who

commenced at that point; Port Stephens, and this part, of the coast,

being laid down from other authorities. From this point, the north head

of Port Stephens bore N. 199.; Sugarloaf Point N. 45. E; and several

other bearings were taken for a sketch of the channel between Blackhead

Island, and the main.

November 1.--We departed early in the morning, and at three O'clock

arrived at Port Stephens. The natives had assembled in considerable

numbers at the back of the beach, and being armed, we suspected their

intention to be, to throw at us from the bank and brush as we passed. On

the advance of four men who were sent to clear the bank of them,

they quickly retired, and did not show themselves again until we

had passed. They appeared to be as cowardly as treacherous: and I

am convinced, that all the mischief they do, arises from a misplaced

confidence in their seeming friendly dispositions. A single person

of his guard is sure to fall a sacrifice to their thirst for plunder.

As we were unable to pass this port without the assistance of a

large boat, it was determined that Mr. Evans and three men should

cross the port in our own boat and proceed to Newcastle, from which

settlement we were distant about thirty-six miles; and procure such aid

as the commandant could afford us, together with a supply of provisions,

our own being nearly exhausted.

November 5.--Mr. Evans and party set forward at day-light on Monday

morning, and arrived the same evening at Newcastle. The commandant,

Captain Wallis of the 46th regiment, lost not a moment in dispatching a

large boat with an abundance of every comfort that could be acceptable to

travellers in our situation. We had also the satisfaction to learn

generally the welfare of our friends in Sydney.

APPENDIX