No. I.
By His Excellency, Lachlan Macquarie, Esq., Captain General, and Governor
in Chief of the Territory of New South Wales, and its dependencies, etc.
etc.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR JOIN OXLEY, ESQ., SURVEYOR GENERAL OF LANDS.
Sir,
The Right Honourable Earl Bathurst, His Majesty's principal Secretary of
State for the Colonies, having in a recent despatch authorised and
directed me to select and employ a properly qualified and competent
officer belonging to this government, for conducting and leading an
expedition for the purpose of prosecuting the discoveries made some time
since to the westward of the Blue Mountains of New South Wales, by Mr.
George William Evans, deputy surveyor of lands; and reposing especial
trust and confidence in your abilities, zeal and diligence, for
conducting and leading such an expedition: I do hereby constitute and
appoint you in virtue of the powers in me vested, to be chief of the
expedition now fitting out to prosecute the discoveries to the westward
of the Blue Mountains in the interior of the continent of Australia. You
are accordingly to be obeyed and respected as chief of this expedition,
and to be governed generally during the continuance of it, by the
following instructions.
First.--With the view of facilitating the objects of the present
expedition, and in justice to his former zealous and successful exertions
in making the original discoveries in the interior, to the westward of the
Blue Mountains; the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has directed,
that in the farther prosecution of these discoveries, Mr. George William
Evans, deputy surveyor of lands, should be associated with the person
appointed to head and direct the expedition; and to be considered the
second in command of it. You are therefore to consider Mr. Evans as next
in command to yourself during the progress of the expedition, and to
consult with him on all operations and points connected therewith; it
being presumed from his local experience in the interior, he will be able
to afford you very useful information and assistance.
Second.--Exclusive of yourself and Mr. Evans, I have deemed it advisable
to permit Mr. Allan Cunningham, one of the King's botanists, (lately sent
out to this country, for the purpose of collecting plants and seeds for
His Majesty's gardens at Kew), to accompany the expedition. I have also
ordered ten other persons to accompany you on the expedition in the
various capacities of assistants, or servants; and herewith you will
receive a schedule of their names, and respective designations, or
employments.
Third.--In order to give every facility to the objects of the expedition
now fitting out, and to afford you the means of prolonging your absence
from headquarters, and consequently extending the range of your
discoveries, I have deemed it advisable to furnish yourself and party
with a sufficient supply of good wholesome provisions for five months; in
which space of time, it is concluded, you will be able to ascertain all
the important objects of the expedition. And in order that this five
months supply of provisions may remain untouched, until you shall have
taken your final departure from the last discovered point on the Lachlan
River, I have had a depot lately established there for the purpose of
lodging the five months provisions, till your arrival at that point; the
necessary number of BAT horses having been provided for conveying the
provisions thither; and it has been lately reported to me, that almost
the whole of the five months provisions have already been conveyed to the
depot on the Lachlan River, and that the remaining part thereof will he
deposited there in the course of seven days from this date. You will
herewith receive a schedule, or account of the provisions, together
with a list of the BAT horses, and other various equipments furnished
and sent to the depot on the banks of the Lachlan River, for the use
of the expedition. I hope it is unnecessary for me to point out or
recommend to a person of your experience, the absolute necessity of
observing every possible economy in the expenditure of your provisions,
and preventing every possible waste thereof, so as to make them hold
out for the full space of time they are intended to last. There is
an ample and liberal daily ration of provisions allowed and sent for
each person sufficient for five months; and you must make it your
particular business to see that there shall be no waste or loss in
the issuing, or carriage of your stock of provisions.
Fourth.--Having been informed, first from the reports of Mr. Evans, the
original discoverer of the Lachlan River, and subsequently from those of
William Cox, Esq., who went thither lately at my particular request, that
there was every reason from its appearance to conclude that that river
would be found to be navigable for small boats; I some time since sent a
boat builder for the purpose of constructing two light boats for
navigating this river, and conveying the provisions and stores for the
expedition along it, to its junction with the sea, in case it should be
found to fall into it, which there is every reason to hope it does. In
the event of this hope being realized, it will greatly facilitate the
objects of the expedition to be able thus to transport all your
provisions, and other equipments, by water, instead of the tedious
process of carrying them by land on the backs of horses, through a woody
and intricate country.
Fifth.--The three grand and principal objects of the present expedition
are:--First, to ascertain the real course or general direction of the
Lachlan River, and its final termination, and whether it falls into the
sea, or into some inland lake. Secondly, if the river falls into the sea,
to ascertain the exact place of its embouchure, and whether such place
would answer as a safe and good port for shipping: and thirdly, the
general face of the country, nature of the soil, woods, and animal and
natural productions of the country through which this river passes;
carefully examining and noting down each of these particulars, and adding
thereto the nature of the climate, and description of such natives or
aborigines of the country as you may happen to see, or fall in with in
your progress through it.
For your farther information and guidance, you will receive herewith a
paper marked A, which is a copy of one lately received by me from Earl
Bathurst, His Majesty's principal Secretary of State for the colonies,
and which I am directed by his lordship to make the groundwork of my
instructions to the officer whom I might think proper to select for, and
entrust with the due execution of the services therein required. And I
therefore refer you for all farther instructions to the paper thus
alluded to; persuaded you will do every thing in your power to comply
with and execute, as far as your means will allow, the several orders and
directions therein contained; communicating these instructions to the
several persons employed with you on the expedition, in as far as they
are severally concerned in making the observations and collections
pointed out in the said instructions from the Secretary of State.
Sixth.--It will of course be necessary in order to ascertain the exact
distance and direction of your journies, whilst prosecuting your
discoveries, that the country through which you travel shall be regularly
chained and laid down upon a chart; but I leave it optional with yourself
to do this either during your outward or homeward bound journey; and as
it is expected that the Lachlan River will be found to empty itself into
that part of the sea on the south-west coast of Australia, between
Spencer's Gulf and Cape Otway, it is hoped you will he able to make all
the necessary discoveries, and return again to Bathurst considerably
within five months; as the greatest distance from thence to that part of
the coast, where the river is supposed to fall into it, cannot exceed six
hundred miles. It is also hoped and expected, that the Lachlan and
Macquarie Rivers unite at some distant point from where Mr. Evans
terminated his trace of the Lachlan River; and in case these two rivers
are found to form a junction, the exact place of their confluence must be
clearly and exactly ascertained in regard to latitude and longitude, and
noted down accordingly. The latitude and longitude of the junction of
both or either of these rivers with the sea, or inland lake, must also be
accurately ascertained and marked down in the chart to be made of your
entire tour and discoveries.
Seventh.--On your return from your journey to the sea-coast to Bathurst,
you are to direct all the journals or other written documents belonging
to, and curiosities collected by the several individuals composing the
expedition, to be carefully sealed up with your own seal, and kept in
that state until after you have made your report in writing to me at
Sydney, of the result of the expedition.
Eighth.--I have only to add, that I wish you to set out from Sydney on
the present service, on Monday, the 31st of this present month, so as to
arrive at Bathurst, on or before the 8th of the ensuing month.
On your arrival at Bathurst, you will find William Cox, Esq., there, and
to him I beg leave to refer you for every information relative to the
provisions, stores, horses for carriage, and other equipments ordered to
be forwarded to the depot on the Lachlan River, for the use of the
expedition; the arrangement and conveyance of all which has been wholly
entrusted to him. Mr. Cox having promised to accompany you as far as the
depot on the Lachlan River, he will be able to remove any unforeseen
difficulties that may arise on your arrival there, in getting the
provisions and stores for the use of the expedition forwarded.
Wishing every success may attend the expedition under your command, and a
safe return to all the individuals composing it;
I remain, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
(Signed,) L. MACQUARIE,
Governor in chief of New South Wales.
Government House, Sydney,
March 24, 1817.
* * * * *
--A.--
COPY OF INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE SECRETARY OF STATE.
Downing Street, April 18, 1816.
It is most desirable that any person travelling into the interior should
keep a detailed Journal of his proceedings. In this Journal all
observations and occurrences of every kind, with all their circumstances,
however minute, and however familiar they may have been rendered by
custom, should be carefully noted down; and it is also desirable that he
should be as circumstantial as possible in describing the general
appearance of the country, its surface, soil, animals, vegetables and
minerals, every thing that relates to the population, the peculiar
manners, customs, language, etc., of the individual natives, or the
tribes of them that he may meet with.
The following however will be among the most important subjects, on which
it will be more immediately the province of a traveller to endeavour to
obtain information.
The general nature of the climate, as to the heat, cold, moisture, winds,
rains, etc.; the temperature regularly registered from Fahrenheit's
thermometer, as observed at two or three periods of the day.
The direction of the mountains; their general appearance as to shape,
whether detached, or continuous in ranges.
The rivers, and their several branches, their direction, velocity,
breadth and depth.
The animals, whether birds, beasts, or fishes, reptiles, insects, etc.,
distinguishing those animals, if any, which appear to have been
domesticated by the natives.
The vegetables, and particularly those that are applicable to any useful
purpose, whether in medicine, dyeing, etc.; any scented woods, or such as
may be adapted for cabinet work, or furniture, and more particularly such
woods as may appear to be useful in ship-building; of all which it
would be desirable to procure small specimens, labelled and numbered,
so that an easy reference may be made to them in the Journal, to
ascertain the quantities in which they are found, and the situations
in which they grow.
Minerals, any of the precious metals, or stones, if used or valued by the
natives.
With respect to the animals, vegetables, and minerals, it is desirable
that specimens of the most remarkable should be preserved as far as the
means of the traveller will admit, and especially the seeds of any plants
not hitherto known: when the preservation of specimens is impossible,
drawings or detailed accounts of them are most desirable.
The description, and characteristic difference, of the several people
whom he way meet; the extent of the population, their occupation, and
means of subsistence; whether chiefly, or to what extent, by fishing,
hunting, or agriculture, and the principal objects of their several
pursuits.
A circumstantial account of such articles, if any, as might be
advantageously imported into Great Britain.
A vocabulary of the language spoken by the natives whom he may meet,
using in the compilation of each the same English words.
If the people are sufficiently numerous to form tribes, it is important
to ascertain their condition, and rules of the society; their genius and
disposition; the nature of their amusements; their diseases and remedies,
etc.; their objects of worship, religious ceremonies; and the influence
of those ceremonies on their moral character and conduct.
(Signed) JOHN THOMAS CAMPBELL, Sec.
(True copy.)
* * * * *
No. Ia.
LIST OF THE NAMES AND DESIGNATIONS OF THE SEVERAL PERSONS PROCEEDING ON
THE EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY, UNDER THE COMMAND OF JOHN OXLEY, ESQ.,
SURVEYOR GENERAL OF LANDS.
1 John Oxley, Esq., chief of the expedition.
2 Mr. George William Evans, second in command.
3 Mr. Allan Cunningham, King's botanist.
4 Charles Fraser, colonial botanist.
5 William Parr, mineralogist.
6 George Hubbard, boat-builder.
7 James King, 1st boatman, and sailor.
8 James King, 2nd horse-shoer.
9 William Meggs, butcher.
10 Patrick Byrne, guide and horse leader.
11 William Blake, harness-mender.
12 George Simpson, for chaining with surveyors.
13 William Warner, servant to Mr. Oxley.
(Signed,) L. MACQUARIE.
Sydney,
March 2,1, 1817.
* * * * *
No. II
Government House, Sydney,
June 10, 1815.
Mr. Cox having reported the road as completed on the 21st of January, the
governor, accompanied by Mr. Macquarie, and that gentleman, commenced his
tour on the 25th of April last, over the Blue Mountains, and was joined
by Sir John Jamison, at the Nepean, who accompanied him during the entire
tour. The following gentlemen composed the governor's suite: Mr.
Campbell, secretary; Captain Antill, major of brigade; Lieutenant Watts,
aid-de-camp; Mr. Redfern, assistant surgeon; Mr. Oxley, surveyor general;
Mr. Meehan, deputy surveyor general; Mr. Lewin, painter, and naturalist;
and Mr. G. W. Evans, deputy surveyor of lands, who had been sent forward
for the purpose of making farther discoveries, and rejoined the party on
the day of arrival at Bathurst Plains.
The commencement of the ascent from Emu Plains, to the first depot, and
then to a resting-place, now called Spring Wood, distant twelve miles
from Emu Ford, was through a very handsome forest of lofty trees, and
much more practicable and easy than was expected. The facility of the
ascent for this distance excited surprise, and is certainly not well
calculated to give the traveller a just idea of the difficulties he has
afterwards to encounter.
At a farther distance of four miles, a sudden change is perceived in the
appearance of the timber, and the quality of the soil; the former
becoming stunted, and the latter barren and rocky. At this place the
fatigues of the journey may be said to commence; here the country became
altogether mountainous, and extremely rugged. Near to the eighteenth mile
mark (it is to be observed the measure commences from Emu Ford), a pile
of stones attracted attention; it is close to the line of road, on the
top of a rugged and abrupt ascent, and is supposed to have been placed
by Mr. Caley, as the extreme limit of his tour; hence the governor
gave that part of the mountain the name of Caley's Repulse. To have
penetrated even so far, was an effort of no small difficulty. From
hence forward to the twenty-sixth mile is a succession of steep and
rugged hills, some of which are almost so abrupt as to deny a passage
altogether; but at this place a considerably extensive plain is arrived
at, which constitutes the summit of the western mountains, and from
thence a most extensive and beautiful prospect presents itself on all
sides to the eye. The town of Windsor, the River Hawkesbury, Prospect
Hill, and other objects within that part of the colony now inhabited, of
equal interest, are distinctly seen from hence. The majestic grandeur of
the situation, combined with the various objects to be seen from this
place, induced the governor to give it the appellation of the King's
Table Land. On the south-west side of the King's Table Land, the mountain
terminates in abrupt precipices of immense depth; at the bottom of which
is seen a glen, as romantically beautiful as can be imagined, bounded on
the farther side by mountains of great magnitude, terminating equally
abruptly as the others; and the whole whole thickly covered with timber.
The length of this picturesque and remarkable tract of country is
about twenty-four miles, to which the governor gave the name of
the Prince Regent's Glen. Proceeding hence to the thirty-third mile,
on the top of a hill an opening presents itself on the south-west
side of the Prince Regent's Glen, from whence a view obtained
particularly beautiful and grand: mountains rising beyond mountains,
with stupendous masses of rock in the fore ground, here strike
the eye with admiration and astonishment. The circular form in which the
whole is so wonderfully disposed, induced the governor to give the name
of Pitt's Amphitheatre to this offset or branch from the Prince Regent's
Glen. The road continues from hence for the space of seventeen miles, on
the ridge of the mountain which forms one side of the Prince Regent's
Glen, and there it suddenly terminates in nearly a perpendicular
precipice of six hundred and seventy-six feet high, as ascertained by
measurement. The road constructed by Mr. Cox down this rugged and
tremendous descent, through all its windings, is no less than three
fourths of a mile in length, and has been executed with such skill and
dexterity as reflects much credit to him: the labour here undergone, and
the difficulties surmounted can only be appreciated by those who view
this scene. In order to perpetuate the memory of Mr. Cox's services, the
governor deemed it a tribute justly due to him to give his name to this
grand and extraordinary pass, and he accordingly called it Cox's Pass.
Having descended into the valley at the bottom of this pass, the
retrospective view of the overhanging mountain is magnificently grand.
Although the present pass is the only practicable point yet discovered
for descending by, yet the mountain is much higher than those on either
side of it, from whence it is distinguished at a considerable distance:
when approaching it from the interior, and in this point of view, it has
the appearance of a very high distinct hill, although it is in fact only
the abrupt termination of a ridge. The governor gave the name of Mount
York to this termination of the ridge: on descending Cox's Pass, the
governor was much pleased by the appearance of good pasture land, and
soil fit for cultivation, which was the first he had met with since the
commencement of his tour. The valley at the base of Mount York he called
the Vale of Clwyd, in consequence of the strong resemblance it bore to
the vale of that name in North Wales: the grass in this vale is of a good
quality, and very abundant; and a rivulet of fine water runs along it
from the eastward, which unites itself at the western extremity of the
vale with another rivulet, containing still more water. The junction of
these two streams forms a very fine river, now called by the governor
Cox's River; which takes its course, as has since been re-ascertained,
through the Prince Regent's Glen, and empties itself into the River
Nepean; and it is conjectured from the nature of the country through
which it passes, that it must be one of the principal causes of the
floods which have been occasionally felt on the low banks of the River
Hawkesbury, into which the Nepean discharges itself. The Vale of Clwyd
from the base of Mount York, extends six miles in a westerly direction,
and has its termination at Cox's River. Westward of this river the
country again becomes hilly, but is generally open, forest land, and
very good pasturage. Three miles to the westward of the Vale of Clwyd,
Messrs. Blaxland, Wentworth, and Lawson, had formerly terminated their
excursion; and when the various difficulties are considered which they
had to contend with, especially until they had effected the descent from
Mount York, to which place they were obliged to pass through a thick
brushwood, where they were under the necessity of cutting a passage for
their baggage horses, the severity of which labour had seriously affected
their healths--their patient endurance of such fatigue cannot fail to
excite much surprise and admiration. In commemoration of their merits,
three beautiful high hills, joining each other at the end of their tour
at this place, have received their names in the following order, viz.,
Mount Blaxland, Wentworth's Sugar Loaf, and Lawson's Sugar Loaf.
A range of very lofty hills and narrow valleys alternately form the tract
from Cox's River, for a distance of sixteen miles, until the Fish River
is arrived at; and the stage between these rivers is consequently very
severe and oppressive to the cattle: to this range the governor gave the
name of Clarence's Hilly Range. Proceeding from the Fish River and a
short distance from it, a very singular and beautiful mountain attracts
the attention, its summit being crowned with a large and very
extraordinary looking rock, nearly circular in form, which gives to the
whole very much the appearance of a Hill Fort, such as are frequent in
India; to this lofty hill, Mr. Evans, who was the first European
discoverer, gave the name of Mount Evans. Passing on from hence the
country continues hilly, but affords good pasturage; gradually improving
to Sidmouth Valley, which is distant from the pass of the Fish River
eight miles. The land here is level, and the first met with unencumbered
with timber: it is not of very considerable extent, but abounds with a
great variety of herbs and plants, such as would probably highly interest
and gratify the scientific botanist. This beautiful little valley runs
north-west and south-east, between hills of easy ascent thinly covered
with timber. Leaving Sidmouth Valley the country again becomes hilly,
and in other respects resembles very much the country to the eastward of
the valley for some miles.
Having reached Campbell River, distant thirteen miles from Sidmouth
Valley, the governor was highly gratified by the appearance of the
country, which there began to exhibit an open and extensive view of
gently rising grounds and fertile plains. Judging from the height of
the banks and its general width, the Campbell River must be on some
occasions of very considerable magnitude; but the extraordinary drought
which has apparently prevailed on the western side of the mountains,
equally as throughout this colony for the last three years, has reduced
this river so much, that it may be more properly called a chain of pools
than a running stream at the present time. In the reaches, or pools of the
Campbell River, the very curious animal called the water mole
(ornithorhynchus paradoxus), is seen in great numbers. The soil on both
banks is uncommonly rich, and the grass is consequently luxuriant. Two
miles to the southward of the line of road which crosses the Campbell
River, there is a very fine rich tract of low lands which has been named
Mitchel Plains.
Wild flax was found here growing in considerable quantities. The Fish
River, which forms a junction with the Campbell River a few miles to the
northward of the road and bridge over the latter, has also two very
fertile plains on its banks, the one called O'Connell Plains, and the
other Macquarie Plains, both of considerable extent, and very capable of
yielding all the necessaries of life. At the distance of seven miles from
the bridge over the Campbell River, Bathurst Plains open to the view,
presenting a rich tract of champaign country of eleven miles in length,
bounded on both sides by gently rising and very beautiful hills, thinly
wooded. The Macquarie River, which is constituted by the junction of the
Fish and Campbell Rivers, takes a winding course through the plains, and
can be easily traced from the high lands adjoining, by the particular
verdure of the trees on its banks, which are likewise the only trees
throughout the extent of the plains.
The level and clean surface of these plains gives them at first view very
much the appearance of lands in a state of cultivation.
The governor and his suite arrived at these plains on Thursday, the 4th
of May, and encamped on the southern or left bank of the Macquarie River;
the situation being selected in consequence of its commanding a beautiful
and extensive prospect for many miles in every direction around it. At
this place the governor remained for a week, which time he occupied in
making excursions in different directions through the adjoining country,
on both sides of the river.
On Sunday, the 7th of May, the governor fixed on a site suitable for the
erection of a town at some future period, to which he gave the name of
Bathurst, in honour of the present Secretary of State for the colonies.
The situation of Bathurst is elevated sufficiently beyond the reach of
any floods which may occur, and is at the same time so near the river on
its south bank, as to derive all the advantages of its clear and
beautiful stream. The mechanics, and settlers of whatever description,
who may be hereafter permitted to form permanent residences to themselves
at this place, will have the highly important advantages of a rich and
fertile soil, with a beautiful river flowing through it, for all the uses
of man.
The governor must however add, that the hopes which were once so
sanguinely entertained of this river becoming navigable to the western
sea have ended in disappointment. During the week that the governor
remained at Bathurst, he made daily excursions in various directions: one
of these extended twenty-two miles in a south-west direction, and on that
occasion as well as on all the others, he found the country composed
chiefly of valleys and plains, separated occasionally by ranges of low
hills; the soil throughout being generally fertile, and well
circumstanced for the purpose of agriculture, or grazing.
Within a distance of ten miles from the site of Bathurst, there is not
less than fifty thousand acres of land clear of timber, and fully one
half of that may be considered excellent soil, well calculated for
cultivation. It is a matter of regret, that in proportion as the land
improves the timber degenerates; and it is to be remarked, that every
where to the westward of the mountains it is much inferior, both in size
and quality, to that within the present colony: there is however a
sufficiency of timber of tolerable quality within the district around
Bathurst, for the purposes of house building, and husbandry.
The governor has here to lament, that neither coals nor limestone have
been yet discovered in the western country; articles in themselves of so
much importance, that the want of them must be severely felt, whenever
that country shall be settled.
Having enumerated the principal and most important features of this new
country, the governor has now to notice some of its live productions. All
around Bathurst abounds in a variety of game; and the two principal
rivers contain a great quantity of fish, but all of one denomination,
resembling the perch in appearance, and of a delicate and fine flavour,
not unlike that of a rock cod; this fish grows to a large size, and is
very voracious. Several of them were caught during the governor's stay at
Bathurst, and at the halting-place on the Fish River. One of those caught
weighed seventeen pounds, and the people stationed at Bathurst reported
they had caught some weighing twenty-five pounds. The field game are the
kangaroos, emus, black swans, wild geese, wild turkeys, bustards, ducks
of various kinds, quail, bronze-winged and other pigeons, etc. etc. The
water-mole also abounds in all the rivers and ponds.
The site designed for the town of Bathurst by observation taken at the
flag-staff, which was erected on the day of Bathurst receiving that name,
is situated in latitude 33. 24. 30. S., and in longitude 149. 29. 30. E.
of Greenwich; being also twenty-seven miles and a half north of
Government House, in Sydney, and ninety-four and a half west of it,
bearing west 18. 20. N., eighty-three geographical miles, or ninety-five
and a half statute miles; the measured road distance from Sydney to
Bathurst being one hundred and forty English miles.
The road constructed by Mr. Cox, and the party under him, commences at
Emu Ford, on the left bank of the Nepean, and is thence one hundred and
one miles and a half to the flag-staff at Bathurst: this road has been
carefully measured, and each mile regularly marked on the trees growing
on the left side of the road, proceeding towards Bathurst.
The governor in his tour made the following stages, in which he was
principally regulated by the consideration of his having good pasturage
for the cattle and plenty of water:
1st stage, Spring Wood, distant from Emu Ford, 12 miles.
2nd ditto, Jamison's Valley, or 2nd depot, distant from ditto, 28 miles.
3rd ditto, Blackheath, distant from ditto, 41 miles.
4th ditto, Cox's River, distant from ditto, 56 miles.
5th ditto, The Fish River, distant from ditto, 72 miles.
6th ditto, Sidmouth Valley, distant from ditto, 80 miles.
7th ditto, Campbell River, distant from ditto, 90 miles.
8th ditto, Bathurst, distant from ditto, 101 1/2 miles.
At all of which places the traveller may assure himself of good grass,
and water in abundance.
* * * * *
No. III.
Bathurst, August 30, 1817.
"Sir,
"I have the honour to acquaint your excellency with my arrival at this
place last evening, together with the persons comprising the expedition
to the westward, which your excellency was pleased to place under my
direction.
"Your excellency is already informed of my proceedings up to the 30th
of April. The limits of a letter will not permit me to enter at large
into the occurrences of nineteen weeks; and as I shall have the honour of
waiting on your excellency in a few days, I trust you will in the mean
time have the goodness to accept the summary account which I now offer.
"I proceeded down the Lachlan in company with the boats until the 12th
of May, the country rapidly descending, until the waters of the river
rising to a level with it, and dividing themselves into numerous
branches, inundated the land to the west and north-west, and prevented
any farther progress in that direction, the river itself being lost among
the marshes. Up to this point, it had received no accession of waters
from either side; but on the contrary, was constantly dissipating itself
in lagoons and swamps.
"The impossibility of proceeding farther in conjunction with the boats
being evident, I determined upon mature deliberation to haul them up; and
divesting ourselves of every thing that could possibly be spared, proceed
with the horses loaded with the additional provisions from the boats, on
such a course towards the coast as would intersect any stream that might
arise from the divided waters of the Lachlan.
"In pursuance of this plan, I quitted the river on the 17th of May,
taking a south-west course towards Cape Northumberland, as the best
adapted to answer my intended purpose. I will not here detail the
difficulties and privations we experienced in passing through a barren
and desolate country, without any water but such rain as was found
remaining in holes and the crevices of rocks. I continued this course
until the 9th of June, when having lost two horses through fatigue and
want, and the others being in a deplorable condition, I changed our
course to north, along a range of lofty hills running in that direction,
as they afforded the only means of procuring water until we should fall
in with some stream. On this course I continued until the 23rd of June,
when we again fell in with a stream, which we had at first some
difficulty to recognise as the Lachlan, it being little larger than one
of the branches of it where we quitted it on the 17th of May.
"I did not hesitate a moment to pursue the course of this stream, not
that the nature of the country or its own appearance in any manner
indicated that it would become navigable, or even permanent; but I was
unwilling that the smallest doubt should remain whether any navigable
waters fall westward into the sea, between the limits pointed out in my
instructions.
"I continued along the banks of the stream until the 8th of July, it
having taken during this period a westerly direction, and passed through
a perfectly level country, barren in the extreme, and being evidently at
periods entirely under water. To this point the river had been gradually
diminishing, and spreading its waters over stagnated lagoons and
morasses, without receiving any tributary stream that we knew of, during
the whole extent of its course. The banks were not more than three feet
high, and the marks of flood on the shrubs and bushes showed that at
times it rose between two and three feet higher, causing the whole
country to become a marsh, and altogether uninhabitable.
"Farther progress westward, had it been possible, was now useless, as
there was neither hill nor rising ground of any kind within the compass
of our view, which was bounded only by the horizon in every quarter, and
entirely devoid of timber, unless a few diminutive gum, trees on the very
edge of the stream might be so termed. The water in the bed of the
lagoon, as it might now be properly denominated, was stagnant, its
breadth about twenty feet, and the heads of grass growing in it showed it
to be about three feet deep.
"This unlooked for and truly singular termination of a river, which
we had anxiously hoped, and reasonably expected, would have led to a far
different conclusion, filled us with the most painful sensations. We were
full five hundred miles west of Sydney, and nearly in its latitude; and
it had taken us ten weeks of unremitted exertion to proceed so far. The
nearest part of the coast about Cape Bernoulli, had it been accessible,
was distant above one hundred and eighty miles. We had demonstrated
beyond a doubt, that no river could fall into the sea between Cape Otway
and Spencer's Gulf, at least none deriving its waters from the eastern
coast; and that the country south of the parallel of 34 degrees, and west
of the meridian 147. 30. E. was uninhabitable, and useless for all the
purposes of civilized men.
"It now became my duty to make our remaining resources as extensively
useful to the colony as our circumstances would allow; these were much
diminished: an accident which happened to one of the boats in the outset
of the expedition had deprived us of one third of our dry provisions, of
which we had originally a supply for only eighteen weeks, and we had been
consequently for some time living on a reduced ration of two quarts of
flour per man, per week. To return to the depot by the route we had come
would have been as useless as impossible; and, seriously considering
the spirit of your excellency's instructions, I determined, after the
most mature deliberation, to take such a route, on our return, as would I
hoped comport with your excellency's views, had our then situation ever
been contemplated.
"Returning up the Lachlan, I recommenced the survey of it from the point
at which it was made on the 23rd of June, intending to continue up its
banks until its connection with the marshes where we quitted it on the
17th of May was satisfactorily established, as also to ascertain if any
streams might have escaped our research. The connection with all the
points of the survey previously determined, was completed between the
19th of July and the 3rd of August. In the space passed over within that
period, the river had divided itself into various branches, and formed
three fine lakes, which, with one near the termination of our journey
westward, were the only considerable pieces of water we had yet seen; and
I now estimated that the river, from the place where it was first made
by Mr. Evans, had run a course, including all its windings, of upwards of
one thousand two hundred miles; a length altogether unprecedented, when
the single nature of the river is considered, and that its original
source constitutes its only supply of water during that extent.
"Crossing at this point, it was my intention to take a north-east course
to intersect the country, and if possible to ascertain what had become of
the Macquarie River, which it was clear had never joined the Lachlan.
This course led us through a country to the full as bad as any we had yet
seen, and equally devoid of water, the personal want of which again much
distressed us. On the 7th of August the scene began to change, and the
country to assume a very different aspect; we were now quitting the
neighbourhood of the Lachlan, and had passed to the north-east of the high
range of hills, which on this parallel bounds the low country to the
north of that river. To the north-west and north the country was high and
open, with good forest land; and on the 10th we had the satisfaction of
falling in with the first stream running northerly. This renewed our
hopes of soon falling in with the Macquarie, and we continued upon the
same course, occasionally inclining to the eastward until the 19th,
passing through a fine luxuriant country, well watered; crossing in that
space of time nine streams, having a northerly course through rich
valleys, the country in every direction being moderately high and open,
and generally as fine as can be imagined.
"No doubt remained upon our minds that those streams fell into the
Macquarie, and to view it before it received such an accession, was our
first wish. On the 19th, we were gratified by failing in with a river
running through a most beautiful country, and which I should have been
well contented to have believed to be the river we were in search of.
Accident led us down this stream about a mile, when we were surprised by
its junction with a river coming from the south, of such width and
magnitude as to dispel all doubts as to this last being the river we had
so long anxiously looked for. Limited as our resources were, we could not
resist the temptation which this beautiful country offered us, to remain
two days upon the junction of these rivers, for the purpose of examining
its vicinity to as great an extent as possible.
"Our examination increased the satisfaction we had previously felt; as
far as the eye could reach, in every direction, a rich and picturesque
country extended, abounding in limestone, slate, good timber, and every
other requisite which could render an uncultivated country desirable.
"The soil cannot be excelled; whilst a noble river of the first magnitude
affords the means of conveying its productions from one part of the
country to the other. Where we quitted it, its course was northerly, and
we were then north of the parallel of Port Stephens, being in latitude
32. 32. 45. S., and 148. 52. E. longitude.
"It appeared to me that the Macquarie had taken a north-north-west course
from Bathurst, and that it must have received immense accessions of water
in its course from that place. We viewed it at a period best calculated
to form an accurate judgment of its importance, when it was neither
swelled by floods beyond its natural and usual height, nor contracted
within its proper limits by summer droughts; of its magnitude when it
should have received the streams we had crossed, independently of any
which it may receive from the east (which, from the boldness and height
of the country, I presume must be at least as many as from the south),
some idea may be formed when I inform your excellency, that at this point
it exceeded in breadth and apparent depth the Hawkesbury at Windsor, and
that many of the reaches were of grander and more extended proportion
than the admired one on the Nepean River, from the Warragamba to Emu
Plains.
"Resolving to keep as near the river as possible during the remainder
of our course to Bathurst, and endeavour to ascertain at least on the
west side what waters fall into it, on the 22nd we proceeded up the
river, and, between the point quitted and Bathurst, crossed the sources
of numberless streams all running into the Macquarie; two of them were
nearly as large as that river itself is at Bathurst. The country whence
all these streams derive their source was mountainous and irregular, and
appeared equally so on the east side of the Macquarie.
"This description of country extended to the immediate vicinity of
Bathurst, but to the west of those lofty ranges the land was broken into
low grassy hills and fine valleys, watered by rivulets rising on the
western side of the mountains, which on their eastern side pour their
waters directly into the Macquarie. These westerly streams appeared to me
to join that which at first sight I had taken for the Macquarie, and, when
united, to fall into it at the point on which it was first discovered on
the 19th instant. We reached this place last evening, without a single
accident having occurred to any one of the party during the whole
progress of the expedition; which from this point has encircled within
the parallels of 34. 30. S. and 32. S., and between the meridians of
149. 29. 30. E. and 143. 30. E. a space of nearly one thousand miles.
I shall hasten to lay before your excellency the journals, charts, and
drawings, explanatory of the various occurrences of our diversified route;
amply gratified if our exertions should appear to your excellency
commensurate with your expectations, and the ample means which your care
and liberality placed at my disposal.
"I feel the most particular pleasure in informing your excellency of the
obligations I am under to Mr. Evans, the deputy surveyor, for his able
advice and cordial co-operation throughout the expedition; and, as far as
his previous researches had extended, the accuracy and fidelity of his
narrative was fully established.
"It would perhaps appear presumptuous in me to hazard an opinion upon
the merits of persons engaged in a pursuit in which I have little
knowledge; the extensive and valuable collection of plants found by
Mr. A. Cunningham, the King's botanist, and Mr. C. Frazer, the colonial
botanist, will best evince to your excellency the unwearied industry and
zeal bestowed in the discovery and preservation of them; in every other
respect they also merit the highest praise.
"From the nature of the greater part of the country passed over, our
mineralogical collection is but small. Mr. S. Parr did as much as could
be done in that branch, and throughout endeavoured to render himself as
useful as possible.
"Of the men on whom the chief care of the horses and baggage devolved,
it is impossible to speak in too high terms. Their conduct in periods of
considerable privation, was such as must redound to their credit; and
their orderly, regular, and obedient behaviour could not be exceeded.
It may principally be attributed to their care and attention, that
we lost only three horses; and that, with the exception of the loss
of the dry provisions already mentioned, no other accident happened
during the course of the expedition. I most respectfully beg leave to
recommend them to your excellency's favourable notice and consideration.
"I trust your excellency will have the goodness to correct any
omissions or inaccuracies that may appear in this letter: the messenger
setting out immediately will not allow me to revise or correct it.
"I have the honour to remain, with the greatest respect,
Your excellency's most obedient and humble servant,
(Signed), J. OXLEY, Surveyor General."
To His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, etc., etc., etc.
* * * * *
APPENDIX.