PART II

--qua nulla pedum vestigia ducunt,

Nulla rotae currus testantur signa priores. GROTIUS.

TO THE RIGHT HON. ROBERT PEEL, M. P.

ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S MOST HONOURABLE PRIVY COUNCIL,

etc. etc. etc.

THIS JOURNAL

IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,

BY HIS VERY FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED

HUMBLE SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.

Sydney, New South Wales,

July 21, 1819.

PREFACE.

The general appearance of the country of New South Wales and the

magnitude of the Macquarie River, as seen on the return of the

expedition in 1817, had caused the most sanguine expectation to be

entertained, that either a communication with the ocean, or interior

navigable waters, would be discovered by following its course. The

important benefits that would result to the colony in the event of such

an expectation being realized, determined his Excellency Governor

Macquarie to lose no time in fitting out a second expedition, which

should have the elucidation of this point for its principal object. This

expedition was also entrusted to my direction. I had scarcely a doubt of

ultimate success, and set out with a confidence which nothing short of

ocular demonstration could destroy. The result of our voyage down the

Macquarie River, and the conjectures which naturally arose in my mind

founded upon observations of its apparent termination, together with

our subsequent journey to the east coast, will be found in the following

pages.

In the map which accompanies the present Journal, every bounding range

to the westward is laid down, from which it will appear that the

north-west interior is nearly a perfect plain; the lower parts of which

are certainly in most seasons under water. The highest land we crossed

lies in lat. 31. S., and long. 151. 10. E. From this apparently dividing

or principal range, the country gradually declines to the north-west;

when, the hills terminating abruptly, the level land commences, over

which is discharged all the waters that have their rise in this dividing

range; and also those waters which rising in the hills (for they cannot

with propriety be termed mountains) to the south-west, have the Lachlan

River for their channel.

The nature of the country will be best explained by a reference to the

Journal; generally speaking, it is fine and open. The bounding high

lands to the north-west seem to take a direction nearly parallel with

the coast line, and the evident declension of the country northerly

affords strong ground for belief, that if those interior waters have any

outlet to the sea [See Note at end of this paragraph.], it will be found

in that direction; and I think the probability is that the waters falling

westerly, will there approach the high tracts of country, much nearer

than they do to the south-west. The whole country to the north of our

track appeared so extremely open and practicable, that it offers in my

opinion but few obstructions to a series of triangles being carried over

it; the longest sides of which, being traced along the bounding high

lands to the north-west, and carried as far northerly as the isthmus,

which separates the gulf of Carpentaria from the sea to the eastward,

would effectually set at rest all questions as to the existence of an

interior sea. Farther north than this point, there can be no reasonable

expectation of finding either waters or an outlet.

[Note: The observations made in the recent voyage of Lieutenant King

along the west and north coasts preclude every reasonable hope of any

opening being found on those coasts. The voyage which he is at present

prosecuting will doubtless determine that point beyond all future

question.]

So few natives were seen in the interior, that those extensive regions

can scarcely be described as inhabited; some scattered families comprise

the entire population, and the scanty remarks we were enabled to make

satisfied us of the strict identity of this race of human beings with

those of the coast. The same method of procuring their food, the same

arms and utensils, are common to both. This remarkable similarity in the

natives of different tribes extends also to the animal and vegetable

productions of the country: the eucalyptus and casuarina; the kangaroo

and the emu, with their various species, alike inhabit the cold regions

of Van Diemen's land, and the warmer latitudes within the tropics.

A short description of the most remarkable plants collected during the

expedition by Mr. Charles Frazier, the government collector, is added to

this Journal; and although the result as to the principal object of the

expedition has not been answerable to the expectation which was

entertained when it set out, yet when the general knowledge obtained of

so considerable a portion of this extensive country is considered, it is

hoped that it has not been undertaken and performed in vain; and that

the field which it has opened to the colonists will be attended with

ultimate benefit both to them and to the parent country.

Sydney, July 17, 1819.

JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA--PART II.

May 20, 1818. Having received his Excellency the Governor's instructions

for the conduct of the expedition intended to examine the course of the

Macquarie River, and every preparation having been made at the depot in

Wellington Valley for that purpose, I quitted Sydney in company with Dr.

Harris (late of the 102nd foot), and after a pleasant journey, arrived at

Bathurst on the 25th. Our little arrangements having been completed by

the 28th, we again set forward with the baggage horses and men that were

to compose the expedition.

We at first kept nearly upon the track pursued by us on our return from

the first expedition in August last; but on approaching Wellington

Valley, keeping a little more to the westward, we avoided much of that

steep and rugged road which we then complained of; the country being

quite

open, the valleys and flats good, the hills limestone rock. We did not

meet with the slightest interruption, and arrived at the depot on the

2nd of June, where we found the boats, etc. in perfect readiness for our

immediate reception.

June 4.--Got all the horses and provisions over to the north side of the

river, and made every preparation to pursue our journey on the morrow.

The river rose about a foot during the day. The accident which had

befallen our barometer during the former expedition not being repaired,

we are of course deprived of means to make any observations on the

height of the country above the sea, otherwise than by careful

observation of the several falls or rapids: I do not think that our

station here is much above four hundred feet below the level of

Bathurst.

June 5.--About one o'clock the weather cleared up a little, when Lewis

with the boat-builder's party set out on their return to Bathurst,

taking with them three of the worst of the horses, and leaving with us

nineteen. The river rose but little during the day: it is quite high

enough for our purpose. A new species of fish was caught, having four

smellers above and four under the mouth; the hind part of it resembled

an eel; it had one dorsal fin, and four other fins, with a white belly;

it measured twenty-one inches and a half, and weighed about two pounds

three quarters.

June 6.--Proceeded down the river about four miles, when the boats were

finally laden. The river in Wellington Valley had been swelled by the

late rains, insomuch that the water below its junction with the

Macquarie was quite discoloured. From the fineness of the soil, the rain

had made the ground very soft, rendering it difficult for the horses to

travel.

June 7.--Proceeded on our journey, both boats and horses being very

heavily laden with our stores and provisions. The river rose but

little. Our day's journey lay generally over an open forest country,

with rich flats on either side of the river: high rocky limestone hills

ended occasionally in abrupt points, obliging the horses to make

considerable detours. The hills were very stony, and so light was the

soil upon them, that the rain rendered the ground very soft. The river

had many fine reaches, extending in straight lines from one to three

miles, and of a corresponding breadth. The rapids, although frequent,

offered no material obstruction to the boats. The current in the long

reaches was scarcely perceptible, and it appears to me that the

difference of elevation between this station and the last is not

considerable.

June 8.--The river expanded into beautiful reaches, having great depth

of water, and from two to three hundred feet broad, literally covered

with water-fowl of different kinds: the richest flats bordered the

river, apparently more extensive on the south side. The vast body of

water which this river must contain in times of flood is confined within

exterior banks, and its inundations are thus deprived of mischief. About

six miles down the river, a freestone hill ended on the north side of

the river: I mention this, as the only stone of that description I had

yet seen. The trees were of the eucalyptus (apple tree), and on the hills

a few of the callitris macrocarpa [Note: Callitr. Vent decad.] were seen:

the trees would furnish large and useful timber. Between eight and nine

miles lower, passed the mouth of Molle's rivulet, now a fine stream. At

four o'clock halted for the evening on rather an elevated spot,

overlooking the rivulet, and a most luxuriant country, on the south side

of the river, well clothed with wood. The boats, during this day's work,

met with no obstructions that were not easily avoided; the rapids were

not so numerous, neither were they so shoal as in the vicinity of the

depot. Our sportsmen provided us with plenty of kangaroos, and a swan.

June 9.--This day the river ran to the north-west by north; about six

miles below our halting-place it received Mary's River, a pretty little

stream. The country on the north side which we passed over was of

various description; the hills barren and stony, with dwarf eucalypti,

or gums, casuarinae, and a few of the sterculia heterophylla; the

country hilly and open: some of the flats on the banks of the river were

extensive and rich, and apparently not subject to floods. On the south

side of the river, the country was more generally a rich flat, backed by

distant hills; to the south-west, stony eminences occasionally ended on

the river. On the hills many specimens of agate, iron-stone, and jasper

were procured, also some flint; the low stones of the river produced the

same: abundance of fine freestone was every where seen. The general

elevation of the country still continues high; the river pours along a

vast body of water; there is no fresh in it, and it is not in any

respect above its usual level. The rapids are caused by the river

dividing into two channels, forming small islands; the water here runs

with great rapidity on a rocky and stony bottom, but of considerable

depth; the obstructions solely arising from trees which have been washed

by the floods from the banks, and which on the subsidence of the water

have remained in the narrows. The character of this river is in every

respect different from the Lachlan; its waters are pure and transparent,

with no marks of flood; it derives its source and continuance from

springs and additional streams, and is in no way dependent upon rains

for its permanent existence.

June 10.--Remained at this station for the purpose of refreshing the

people and horses. Examined the country to the north-east for a few

miles; it differed but little from that already passed over, in point of

quality of soil, but was broken into irregular hills and valleys,

without rising into any one distinguishing or remarkable hill: the

surface of the country seemed elevated, and rising to the eastward. The

soil for the most part a reddish light mould, the hills covered with

small stones, the trees dwarf gum, box, a few cypresses and casuarinae;

the soil well covered with grass. Kangaroos, fish, and swans, were the

produce of this day's sport, so that we enjoyed all the necessaries, and

many of the luxuries of life.

June 11.--Proceeded down the river about eight miles, meeting with no

obstructions of any consequence: the water had risen about a foot in the

last night, and now ran with considerable rapidity, particularly in the

narrows. It is by no means desirable that the river should rise any

higher; there is abundance of water for our purposes, any addition would

only partially cover the stumps of trees and increase our danger; at

present we see and avoid them. After travelling six miles we came to a

small river running from the eastward; there was at this time a fresh in

it, so that we had to unload the horses and use the boats to transport

our baggage over. It was three o'clock before we had got every thing

across, we therefore halted for the evening. The country passed through

was of the finest description, and apparently equally good on the

opposite side; rich flats bounded by gentle hills were on each side of

the small river, which received the name of Erskine River, after the

present lieutenant governor of the colony. These flats were covered with

the species of eucalyptus called apple tree, but (like the other

trees) of small size. While we were employed in crossing the river, I

rode up it about three miles through a similar country. I went to the

north-east; the country gently rose, and was generally of an excellent

soil, well watered and fit for all purposes of cultivation, with partial

exceptions of stony and brushy ridges. Many hills and elevated flats

were entirely clear of timber, and the whole had a very picturesque

and park-like appearance. I hailed Erskine River as a good omen of

ultimate success: it was the first stream we had met with falling from

the eastward, and was a proof to me that the Macquarie was the natural

reservoir or channel for the waters from the north-east, as I knew it to

be from the south. We had as yet seen no inhabitants, and very few signs

that the country is inhabited at all. Fish, flesh, and fowl are

abundant, but there are no human beings to enjoy them but ourselves:

native dogs are in considerable numbers, and keep up during the night a

continual howling.

June 12.--We this day passed over a very beautiful country, thinly

wooded, and apparently safe from the highest floods; the river had

considerable windings, but was of noble width and appearance; the

rapids were few, and offered no obstruction; its medium width from one

hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty feet, and in many reaches

much more. On one of the higher back ridges there are some good iron

bark trees, with abundance of cypress; the apple, blue gum, and box,

were the principal trees growing on the flats. Kangaroos were in very

great numbers: our dogs took four; they were of that species called by

Dr. Smith macropus elegans, and are very rare on the east coast. The

stones and rocks were generally hard whinstone, or freestone, the former

in large masses; the beach, of pebbles of all colours and kinds, from

quartz to sandstone. About a mile from our resting-place, we passed the

mouth of the small rivulet named in the former journey Elizabeth's Burn;

the stream now in it was inconsiderable.

June 13.--Our route during this day's journey was generally over a very

level country, the land three or four miles back from the river very

inferior to that on the borders of it, being covered with small trees

and brush; the soil a light, red loam. The rich flats on the banks on

either side were not flooded, and were of the best quality: these flats

seemed more extensive on the south than the north side of the river, and

were bounded by the fine hills, which were passed over on the return of

the expedition last year. About five miles from our last night's

resting-place, we fell in with a small rivulet from the north-east,

which I named after Major Taylor, of the 48th regiment. On the west side

of it, we came suddenly upon a couple of native families; they, however,

with the exception of an old man, and a boy who was up a tree, made

their escape. No entreaties could bring the boy down; he seemed, in

fact, as well as the old man, petrified with terror. The man was

possessed of the remains of an iron tomahawk, which he had fitted as a

mogo, or native axe. I think it probable he became possessed of this

treasure through others of his countrymen who had visited the party in

Wellington Vale, as it was clear he had never seen white people before.

The man made repeated attempts to induce us to depart, which to his

great joy we shortly did. The left side of this man's body was one

continued ulcer, occasioned most likely by a burn. The river wound upon

every point of the compass, and its breadth was much contracted by

shoals and rapids running over a rocky bottom: the stream ran with

great velocity, and the boat experienced no interruptions. The banks

were very high and wide, and although the marks of flood were observed

to upwards of thirty feet, the waters were confined to the actual bed of

the river, without flooding the lands on either side. Large masses of

coarse granite were in the river where we stopped for the evening; it

was of a different species from any we had hitherto seen, and the bases

of the hills ending on the river seemed to be composed of it.

June 14.-I had determined to halt this day, for the purpose of verifying

our situation by survey, but was prevented by rain of great violence

throughout the day, accompanied by strong winds from the north-west;

this confined us to our tents.

June 15.--Our journey lay over alternate rich flats and barren stony

scrubs; the country irregular, and the banks much elevated: the land to

the north-west and north, as far as we could see, (ten or twelve miles)

broken into bare, irregular hills and valleys. On the south side of the

river the flats were more extended; thick coppices, and tracts of

barren land, were also observed on that side. About four miles down the

river large blocks of granite were scattered in its bed, and formed the

base of the surrounding hills, the tops of which were covered with

different kinds of stone, cemented or fused together by the action of

fire: many of those stones were beautifully crystallised, and the

appearance of some kind of mineral was evident. The river sometimes

swept along in fine reaches, then, becoming contracted into narrow rocky

channels, rushed through those straits with extreme violence, rendering

it difficult to steer the boats clear of the obstructions that presented

themselves on every side: the large boat struck twice in those narrows.

The water has fallen considerably, and it does not appear to be even now

at its usual level; its quality is very hard. The granite we fell in

with four miles below our last encampment was of a totally different

species, being much finer and closer grained, with small black specks

thickly intermingled in the mass; some freestone was also seen. The

botany of the country was in all respects the same as observed on our

journey homewards last year; the grassy nature of the herbage preventing

any material addition to our collection. Kangaroos were in great

numbers, and continued to furnish us with a welcome addition to our

rations.

June 16.--Our day's route was as usual over a very flat though rich

country, thickly wooded with good timber of the eucalyptus and angophora

species, with some fine cypresses in the looser soils, and back from the

river. The country, although flat, appears considerably elevated, and is

neither flooded nor swampy; the opposite side apparently of the same

kind. We fell in with another small camp of natives; the women and

children withdrew before we came up with them: among the men (seven in

number) we recognised four whom we had seen on the last expedition at

Mary's Rivulet; the recognition was mutual, and they seemed highly

pleased with it: they accompanied us about eight miles farther to our

evening's encampment, where being gratified with some kangaroo, and

undergoing the operation of shaving, (at their earnest request, after

seeing one of their number disencumbered of an immense beard) they left

us

at sunset to join their families, which were probably at no great

distance. About four miles above our encampment, on the immediate banks

of

the river, we discovered a large mass of saponaceous earth; I at first

took it to be a fine pipeclay, but on examination, it appears to possess

all the valuable qualities of fuller's earth; and a piece of woollen

cloth

being partially greased, and then rubbed over with the earth, the grease

was perfectly extracted and the cloth left entirely clean. Among this

earth, small white pieces of a hard marly substance were found, and

appeared either to be pure lime, or to contain a very considerable

portion of it. On one of the beaches a small shell was found, which was

unanimously adjudged to be a marine production; at least, we had never

before seen any fresh-water shell resembling it. The river fell during

the

last night and the course of this day very considerably, and is, I think,

below its proper level; there is however an ample sufficiency of water

for our boats: the chief dangers are from stumps and branches of trees

in the narrows; and what previously to the great fall in the water we

could have passed over without difficulty, now occasions us some anxiety

and trouble. The course the river took to-day was considerably to

the north.

June 17.--A very severe frost, the ice a quarter of an inch thick. About

a mile down the river, we saw a native burial-place or tomb, not more

than a month old; the characters carved on the trees were quite fresh:

the tomb had no semicircular seats, but in other respects was similar to

those seen on our last journey. The country still continued perfectly

level, the greater part extremely good and rich; back from the river it

was occasionally marshy, with barren rocky scrubs; the timber large, and

generally good: we could not see beyond a mile on the opposite side, but

the country there appeared much the same. One of the men, who was some

distance ahead of the horses, saw a large party of the natives, who fled

at his approach, and swam the river; there were upwards of twenty men,

besides women and children: the moment they were safely across, they

brandished their waddies and spears in token of defiance: this was the

first time any of the natives were seen armed, or in any way hostilely

inclined. The river ran to the north-west by north over a bottom of rock

and sand: in point of depth, it was amply sufficient for much larger

boats than ours; but it was impossible always to avoid concealed

dangers, over which the waters did not cause the slightest ripple. The

large boat struck on a sharp rock, and with such violence as to stave

her bottom; she was immediately unladen, and temporarily repaired

without injury to the cargo. Although the river is extremely low, there

is a very large body of water in it; the outer banks are nearly a

quarter of a mile wide, and far out of the reach of flood, the marks of

which were, to our extreme astonishment, observed nearly fifty feet

high. We have not seen during these last two days any hill or other

eminence; the country within our sight and observation being perfectly

level.

June. 18.--As we were on the point of setting forward, a large party of

natives made their appearance on the opposite side of the river: they

set up a most hideous and discordant noise, making signs, as well as we

could understand them, for us to depart and go down the river. After

beating their spears and waddies together for about a quarter of an

hour, accompanied by no friendly gestures, they went away up the river,

while we pursued our course in an opposite direction. We had hitherto

met with no obstructions in the navigation, except such as arose from

the wrecks of successive floods lodging in the narrows; these were

easily overcome: the course of the river to-day for nearly six miles

was a fine and even stream, from forty to fifty yards wide, and from

eight to sixteen feet deep, over a bottom of rock and sandy gravel; when

a reef of rocks at once interrupted our progress in the laden boats, the

water breaking with such violence over them, that I was afraid they

would be greatly endangered even when light. The horses had stopped at a

cataract about three quarters of a mile lower down, and it appeared that

the rocky shoal extended to that distance, when a fall of five feet over

a bed of rocks would have stopped the boats altogether. The horses were

immediately unladen and sent to bring the cargos of the two boats, which

being accomplished, we got them safely over the shoals by the cataracts;

when hauling them over land about two hundred yards, they were again

launched into deep water. The country on either side during this days

journey was by no means so good as it had hitherto generally been, being

very brushy, and thickly timbered, chiefly with the species of

eucalyptus called box, and another kind appearing to be different from

those frequently observed. The banks of the river were very high; and,

notwithstanding the country was perfectly level, it was far above the

reach of any flood. The body of water falling over the cataract was

surprising, the low state of the river being considered, and this

incident instead of discouraging us increased our already sanguine

hopes, that its termination would not deceive the expectations we could

not avoid indulging.

June 19.--The boats during their progress this day did not experience

any obstruction, the river winding in fine though narrow reaches, over a

bottom of sand and occasionally rock; the depth from eight to sixteen

feet. The country still continued perfectly level, but generally of

excellent soil: two or three miles back from the river north-east, there

were several extensive plains, without any timber on them, and in many

places water was on the surface, probably occasioned by the heavy rain

on the 14th instant; since these flats, and indeed all the country we

had hitherto travelled over, were quite clear of any floods from the

river. The banks of the river are, I think, ten or twelve feet lower

than they are fifteen or twenty miles higher up; the floods evidently do

not rise to so great a height, not exceeding, as far as we can judge,

sixteen feet. I do not think the timber is either so large or so good as

we had hitherto found it; but there is a great quantity of it, chiefly

box, and a species of blue gum. Although at such a distance from the

Lachlan, we have recognised most of the plants found in its vicinity: in

all other respects the neighbourhood of the two rivers is totally

dissimilar; and in nothing more observable than in the rivers

themselves. The water in the river continues so extremely hard as to

render it difficult to raise a lather from soap; it is also very pure

and transparent.

June 20.--The night cold, a sharp frost congealing some standing water

by the river's side. The river rose upwards of a foot during the night,

and still continues gradually to rise. Having gone upwards of one

hundred and twenty-five miles from Wellington Valley, I thought it

advisable that the two men who accompanied us for that purpose should

return to Sydney with an account of our proceedings, agreeably to the

governor's instructions. Despatched two other men on horseback to the

north-east, with directions to go as far as possible in that direction,

and to return by sunset; which they did, and reported that they had been

from fourteen to sixteen miles, through a very fine though level

country: the brushes were of small extent, and communicated with the

finest tracts, chiefly of forest land thinly wooded: no marks were seen

of any floods either from the river or land side, and these flats were

watered by chains of ponds or watercourses, which doubtless when

overflowed communicate with the river. Abundance of kangaroos and emus.

June 21.--The result of the observation this day gave for our situation

lat. 31. 49. 60. S., long. 147. 52. 15. E., and the variation 8. 22. E.

June 22.--Completed the necessary papers for the governor's information,

and made all ready to proceed on our journey tomorrow. The river in

these last two days has risen between two and three feet.

June 23.--Having despatched Thomas Thatcher and John Hall to Bathurst,

with an account of our progress, the expedition set forward down the

river. For four or five miles there was no material change in the

general appearance of the country from what it had been on the preceding

days, but for the last six miles the land was very considerably lower,

interspersed with plains clear of timber, and dry. On the banks it was

still lower, and in many parts it was evident that the river floods

swept over them, though this did not appear to be universally the case.

The far greater part of the last six miles was covered with shrubs, and

the acacia pendula. These unfavourable appearances threw a damp upon our

hopes, and we feared that our anticipations had been too sanguine. The

river continued nearly as before, but much narrower, and more winding,

in some measure accounting for the great height of the floods which we

observed fifty or sixty miles back, where the river was probably four

times as wide: we missed with regret the striking characteristics which

had hitherto distinguished it, the sandy and gravelly beaches, and rocky

points; though there was certainly the same volume of water which had

originally given me such strong hopes that it could never be dissipated

over marshes. The banks are no more than twenty feet high in their most

elevated places, and the probability is, that all our doubts,

speculations, and hopes, will be clearly decided within the week; the

soil is of the richest quality, but the flatness of the land, and want

of any eminence, are great drawbacks upon the bounties of nature: not

but there are numerous spaces above the reach of either land or river

flood, which would offer secure retreats to the inhabitants of these

singular regions. Several new birds were seen to-day of very beautiful

plumage; none however were procured, so as to enable me to describe them.

We also saw the crested pigeon, and grey and red parrot of the Lachlan;

some fine and singular plants also enriched our collection: it would seem

as if nature here delighted in wasting her most beautiful productions

upon the "desert air," rather than placing them in situations where

they would become more easily accessible to the researches of science

and taste.

June 24.--The country was still extremely flat, and perfectly overrun

with acacias, dwarf box (eucalyptus), some species of suffruticore

atriplex [See Note at end of this paragraph.], and other shrubs; and

intersected by nunumerous extensive lagoons now quite dry, but which when

the river is about one-third full, convey the water back over vast plains

and levels for the most part clear of every kind of brush, and on the

fall

of the waters these lagoons act as drains to the lands. The brushes were

most numerous and perplexing in the neighbourhood of the river, a course

we were obliged to keep, in order not to part company with the boats. The

country two or three miles along the banks of the river was only

partially flooded, the land being much lower at a greater distance from

it; the most part of the soil was a rich, alluvial deposition from

floods. Except on those clear plains which occasionally occurred on the

sides of the river, we could seldom see beyond a quarter of a mile.

Byrne, who was at the head of the hunting party, surprised an old native

man and woman, the former digging for rats, or roots, the other lighting

a fire: they did not perceive him till he was within a few yards of

them, when the man threw his wooden spade at Byrne, which struck his

horse; then taking his old woman by the hand, they set off with the

utmost celerity, particularly when they saw the dogs, of which they seem

to entertain great fears. In the evening, natives were heard on the

opposite side of the river, but none came within view. There was no

alteration in the appearance or size of the river during this day's

course; the banks were in no respect lower: it ran with great rapidity

over a sandy bottom, and was from six to thirty feet deep; the water

still clear, and remarkably hard.

[Note: Other genera of chenopodeae likewise exist on these plains,

of which some salsolae, and that curious lanigerous shrub sclerolaena

paradoxa of Mr. Brown, with spinous fruit, are most remarkable.]

June 25.--The weather cold, but fine: the thermometer is about 28

degrees, and I think from this extraordinary degree of cold so far to

the north, that notwithstanding the lowness of the surrounding country

(as compared to its relative situation with the river), that we are

still at a considerable elevation above the sea. In our last journey,

three degrees farther south, we experienced at the same season no such

cold, the weather being equally fine and clear as at present. The

appearance of the country was much the same as yesterday; the whole

ground we passed over being liable to flood, and covered with eucalyptus

or gum tree, acacia pendula, and various other species of that extensive

genus, one of which appeared quite new but not in flower. Four or five

miles back from the river (east), the country rises and is not flooded,

the soil being there much inferior, but covered with fine cypresses:

notwithstanding this tract was much higher than that more immediately on

the river, there was no eminence from which we could look around. The

banks of the river are much lower than yesterday, scarcely exceeding

twelve feet high; the floods are low in proportion, and I did not see

any mark showing that the rise of water ever exceeded a foot above the

banks. The river did not offer the slightest obstruction, and was from

twenty to twenty-four feet deep. There is probably from two to three

feet more in it than usual; the breadth varies considerably, in some

places not more than sixty feet, in others two hundred. All the lagoons

(though very deep), in the neighbourhood of the river are quite dry, and

appearances indicate that the country has not been flooded for years.

Emus and kangaroos are in abundance; but we have lately caught no fish,

owing most likely to the coldness of the weather: various birds

altogether unknown to us were seen; and although the leading plants were

the same as those found through nearly the whole of Australia, new ones

were daily met with. The river has continued inclining to the northward:

its course to-day was north-north-west.

June 26.--The country this day was as various as can be imagined; low

but not level; in some places covered with the acacia pendula,

chenopodeae, and polygonum juncium; in others, with good gum and box

trees. The whole, with few exceptions, appeared liable to flood. Four or

five miles back the country imperceptibly rises, and is free from river

floods; but the hollows, proceeding from the inequalities of its

surface, are in rainy seasons the reservoirs of the land floods. The

whole country was now perfectly dry, and must have been so for a long

period: it would indeed have been impossible, had the season been wet,

to have kept company with the boats. The river itself continues

undiminished, and is a fine stream, with nothing to impede the

navigation; its windings, however, are very considerable. The banks

appear lower by nearly three feet than yesterday: there are still no

marks of flood rising upon the land above a foot on either side: the

depth of the stream is from twenty to twenty-four feet, breadth from

sixty to one hundred and sixty, and its current is about a mile and a

half per hour. The river has fallen yesterday and to-day nearly eighteen

inches.

June 27.--The river continues to fall. We had gone about five miles

through a country as low and brushy as usual, when we were agreeably

surprised with the view of a small hill about a mile to the eastward: we

hastened to it, in hopes that we should find that the country rose to

the north-east; we however saw nothing but another hill still higher,

about three miles to the north-north-west, in the direction of the

river. The hill, or rather rock, we had just quitted, was about a

quarter of a mile long by half a quarter broad, and about seventy feet

high; it was nothing but granite, having the sides and summit covered

with broken pieces of a fine and very compact species of the same

mineral. We named it Welcome Rock; for any thing like an eminence was

grateful to our sight. From the summit of the hill seen to the

north-north-west our view was very extensive; but nothing indicated

either

a speedy change of country or a termination of the river. To the

westward,

the land was a perfect level, with clear spaces or marshes interspersed

amidst the boundless desert of wood. To the east, a most stupendous

range of mountains, lifting their blue heads above the horizon, bounded

the view in that direction, and were distant at least seventy miles, the

country appearing a perfect plain between us and them. From north-west

to north-east nothing interrupted the horizontal view, except a hill

similar to the one we were on, about five miles distant to the

north-north-west. Extended as was our prospect, it did not afford much

room for satisfactory anticipation; and there was nothing that gave us

reason to believe that any stream, either from the east or west, joined

the river for the next forty miles at least. The hill from which this

view was taken was named Mount Harris, after my friend, who accompanied

the expedition as a volunteer; that to the north-north-west, Mount

Forster, after Lieutenant Forster, of the Navy; and the lofty range

before mentioned to the eastward was distinguished by the name of

Arbuthnot's Range, after the Right Hon. C. Arbuthnot, of His Majesty's

Treasury. The two first mentioned hills are entirely of granite, from

one and a half to two miles long, by half a mile to one mile wide: their

formation must be considered a most singular geological phenomenon,

detached as they are by an immense space from all mountainous ranges,

and rising from the midst of a soft alluvial soil. Small pieces of

granite were in several places thrown into heaps, as if by human means;

and their whole surfaces were covered with similar pieces, detached from

the solid mass to which they had once belonged. If I might hazard a

conjecture, I should attribute to them a volcanic origin: I think, on

examination, their constituent parts will be found to have undergone the

action of fire, by which they have been fused together. To those

conversant in the structure of the earth, and with the means used by

nature to accomplish her purposes, these singular hills may offer a

subject for curious inquiry. The natives appear numerous in these

regions of apparent desolation: we fell in with several parties in the

course of the day, in the whole probably not less than forty, and many

fires were seen to the north. Being a mile or two ahead of our party in

a thick brush, I came suddenly upon three men; two ran off with the

greatest speed; the third, who was older and a little lame, first threw

his firestick at me, and next (seeing me still advance) a waddie, but

with such agitation, that though not more than a dozen paces distant, he

missed both me and my horse. I returned to my party, and in company with

them surprised the native camp; we found there eight women and twelve

children, just on the point of departing with their infants in their

cloaks on their backs: on seeing us, they seized each other by the hand,

formed a circle, and threw themselves on the ground, with their heads

and faces covered. Unwilling to add to their evident terror, we only

remained a few minutes, during which time the children frequently peeped

at us from beneath their clothes; indeed, they seemed more surprised

than alarmed: the mothers kept uttering a low and mournful cry, as if

entreating mercy. In the camp were several spears, or rather lances, as

they were much too ponderous to be thrown by the arm; these were jagged:

there were also some elamongs (shields), clubs, chisels, and several

workbags filled with every thing necessary for the toilet of a native

belle; namely, paint and feathers, necklaces of teeth, and nets for the

head, with thread formed of the sinews of the opossum's tail for making

their cloaks. The men belonging to the camp were heard shouting at no

great distance: their affection for their families was not, however,

sufficiently powerful to induce them to attempt their rescue from the

hands of such unfabulous centaurs, as we doubtless appeared to them. The

boats met with no interruption, the river continuing a fine and even

stream, running at the rate of a mile and a half per hour: it was in

places very narrow, and our astonishment would have been excited that

such a channel should contain the powerful body of water falling into

it, if we had not found its medium depth to be from twenty to thirty

feet. The height of the banks is not more than seven feet above the

water, and they appeared to have been flooded to that height. It did not

seem that back from the river, beyond three or four miles, the country

was ever flooded, except by the waters which would fall on its surface

in rainy seasons; it was, however, now quite dry, and the hollows of the

surface bore evidence of a long continued drought. The course of the

river still continued to the north-north-west. The rocks composing Mount

Harris are apparently basaltic, the whole seeming to have been shot up

in points. the angles of which are complete. The stones are very heavy

and compact, and when dashed against each other were extremely sonorous.

June 28.--Remained here this day for the purpose of rest and

refreshment: the grass and country poor, and covered with acacia trees

and small eucalypti in our immediate vicinity. Despatched two men to

view the country to the north-east. The botanical collector crossed the

river and ascended Mount Forster, on which he was fortunate enough to

procure many plants seemingly new: he thought he saw a branch of the

river separating from it and running to the north-west, whilst the river

itself continued to go northerly. The account brought by the men in the

evening was far from flattering; they had been out ten or twelve miles

to the north and east, and found the country as bad as can be imagined;

in fact, a dry morass, with higher land, free from floods, but overrun

with brushes, among which a few pines were scattered: they saw no water,

and but little game of any kind.

June 29.--As we proceeded down the river, the country gradually became

much lower in its immediate vicinity; and between four and five miles

from our resting-place it was even with the banks, and in some places

overflowed them. All travelling near the river with horses was at once

interrupted, and this was the more perplexing as it rendered the

communication with the boats uncertain, and liable to be cut off

altogether. Finding that those marshes were only impassable for a mile

or little more from the river, and that occasionally we could approach

within one hundred yards of it, the horses were directed to keep round

the edge of them, making for the river whenever practicable, and firing

guns to let the boats know our situation. At two o'clock in the after.

noon we stopped, after going about ten miles and a half, about one

hundred and fifty yards from the river. which we could not approach

nearer by reason of wet and boggy marshes; in fact, the place where we

stopped is of the same description, but now (fortunately for us) dry.

The country north-east of us, along the dry edge of which we were

obliged to keep, is as bad as possible, being in wet seasons full of

water-holes, and consequently impassable. The river still continues

undiminished, as we find that the branches and small streams that

frequently run from it join it again at short distances, and that they

owe their existence at this time to the full state of the river, which

is certainly some feet above its usual level. The breadth and depth of

the river were various throughout the day: in the places where it

overflowed its banks, there was not more than from ten to twelve feet; in

others, where it ran very broad, but was confined within them, fifteen

feet; and in narrower places, under the same circumstances, upwards of

twenty feet. Thus it seemed to vary with the capacity of the channel to

contain its waters, which were very muddy, the current running at a

medium rate of a mile per hour. The boats arrived at about half past

four o'clock, meeting nothing to interrupt them.

June 30.--After making every arrangement that we could devise to ensure

our keeping company with the boats, we proceeded down the river. Our

progress was, however, interrupted much sooner than I anticipated; for

we had scarcely gone six miles, and never nearer to the river than from

one to two miles, when we perceived that the waters which had overflowed

the banks were spreading over the plains on which we were travelling,

and that with a rapidity which precluded any hope of making the river

again to the north-west by north, in which direction we imagined it to

run for some distance, when its course appeared to take a more northerly

direction. Our situation did not admit of hesitation as to the steps we

were to pursue. Our journey had, in fact, been continued longer than

strict prudence would have warranted, and the safety of the whole party

was now at stake: no retreat presented itself except the station we left

in the morning, and even there it was impossible that we could, with any

regard to prudence, remain longer than to carry the arrangements which I

had in contemplation into effect. The horses were therefore ordered

back, and two men succeeded, after wading through the water to the

middle, in making the river about three miles below the place they set

out from. Fortunately the boats had not proceeded so far, and on their

coming up were directed to return. The boats arrived at sunset, having

had to pull against a strong current. The river itself continued, as

usual, from fifteen to twenty-five feet deep, the waters which were

overflowing the plains being carried thither by a multitude of

little streams, which had their origin in the present increased

height of the waters above their usual level. The river continued

undiminished, and presented too important a body of water to allow

me to believe that those marshes and low grounds had any material

effect in diffusing and absorbing it: its ultimate termination,

therefore, must be more consonant to its magnitude. These reflections

on the present undiminished state of the river would of themselves

have caused me to pause before I hastily quitted a pursuit from

the issue of which so much had naturally been expected. For all

practical purposes, the nature of the country precluded me from

indulging the hope, that even if the river should terminate in an

inland sea, it could be of the smallest use to the colony. The

knowledge of its actual termination, if at all attainable, was,

however, a matter of deep importance, and would tend to throw some

light on the obscurity in which the interior of this vast country is

still involved. My ardent desire to investigate as far as possible this

interesting question, determined me to take the large boat, and with

four volunteers to proceed down the river as long as it continued

navigable; a due regard being had to the difficulties we should have to

contend with in returning against the stream. I calculated that this

would take me a month; at all events, I determined to be provided for

that period, which indeed was the very utmost that could be spared from

the ulterior object of the expedition.

July 1.--The water not rising. Employed in making every preparation to

proceed on the voyage down the river to-morrow morning. On mature

deliberation, it was resolved that on my departure, the horses with the

provisions should return back to Mount Harris, a distance of about

fifteen miles, as the safety of the whole would be endangered by a

longer stay at this station, and to that point I fixed to return with

the large boat. It was determined, that during my absence Mr. Evans

should proceed to the north-east from fifty to sixty miles, and return

upon a more northerly course, in order that we might be prepared against

any difficulties that might occur in the first stages of a journey to

the north-east coast. The only one which I contemplated in a serious

point of view, was the probable want of water until we came in contact

with high land, and I hoped this might be partially provided against by

Mr. Evans's expedition. The horses were all in good condition, and, from

the length of time I expected to be absent, the baggage would be reduced

to the smallest possible compass, and the cooper would have time to

diminish the pork casks, which were far too heavy for the horses, being

intended for boats only; for it had not been contemplated that the

nature of the country would so soon deprive us of water carriage.

July 2.--I proceeded down the river, during one of the wettest and most

stormy days we had yet experienced. About twenty miles from where I set

out, there was, properly speaking, no country; the river overflowing its

banks, and dividing into streams which I found had no permanent

separation from the main branch, but united themselves to it on a

multitude of points. We went seven or eight miles farther, when we

stopped for the night upon a space of ground scarcely large enough to

enable us to kindle a fire. The principal stream ran with great

rapidity, and its banks and neighbourhood, as far as we could see, were

covered with wood, encreasing us within a margin or bank. Vast spaces of

country clear of timber were under water, and covered with the common

reed [Note: Arundo phragmites. Linn.], which grew to the height of six

or seven feet above the surface. The course and distance by the

river was estimated to be from twenty-seven to thirty miles, on a

north-north-west line.

July 3.--Towards the morning the storm abated, and at daylight we

proceeded on our voyage. The main bed of the river was much contracted,

but very deep, the waters spreading to the depth of a foot or eighteen

inches over the banks, but all running on the same point of bearing. We

met with considerable interruption from fallen timber, which in places

nearly choked up the channel. After going about twenty miles, we lost

the land and trees: the channel of the river, which lay through reeds,

and was from one to three feet deep, ran northerly. This continued for

three or four miles farther, when although there had been no previous

change in the breadth, depth, and rapidity of the stream for several

miles, and I was sanguine in my expectations of soon entering the long

sought for Australian sea, it all at once eluded our farther pursuit by

spreading on every point from north-west to north-east, among the ocean

of reeds which surrounded us, still running with the same rapidity as

before. There, was no channel whatever among those reeds, and the depth

varied from three to five feet. This astonishing change (for I cannot

call it a termination of the river), of course left me no alternative

but to endeavour to return to some spot, on which we could effect a

landing before dark. I estimated that during this day we had gone about

twenty-four miles, on nearly the same point of bearing as yesterday. To

assert positively that we were on the margin of the lake or sea into

which this great body of water is discharged, might reasonably be deemed

a conclusion which has nothing but conjecture for its basis; but if an

opinion may be permitted to be hazarded from actual appearances, mine is

decidedly in favour of our being in the immediate vicinity of an inland

sea, or lake, most probably a shoal one, and gradually filling up by

immense depositions from the higher lands, left by the waters which flow

into it. It is most singular, that the high-lands on this continent seem

to be confined to the sea-coast, or not to extend to any great distance

from it.

July 7.--I returned with the boat late last night, and was glad to find

that every thing had been removed to Mount Harris. Mr. Evans had not yet

set out on his journey, but intends to do so to-morrow.

July 8.--Mr. Evans set forward to the north-east, taking with him eight

or ten days' provisions, which I hoped would be sufficient to enable him

to form a competent idea of the country we should now have to travel

over. In the mean time we employed ourselves in diminishing our baggage,

and setting aside eighteen weeks' provisions on a reduced ration, which

was the utmost the horses could take; the remainder serving us for

consumption during our stay here.

July 18.--During the last week the weather was very variable and

unsettled, with constant gales from the north-west round to the

south-west, and occasional heavy rain. We had reason to congratulate

ourselves on the change of our situation: a delay of a few days would

have swept us from the face of the earth. On the 10th, the river began

to rise rapidly, and on the 15th, in the evening it was at its height,

laying the whole of the low country under water, and insulating us on

the spot on which we were; the water approaching within a few yards of

the tent. Nothing could be more melancholy and dreary than the scene

around us; and although personally safe, we could not contemplate

without anxiety the difficulties we might expect to meet with, in

passing over a country which the waters would leave wet and marshy, if

not impracticable. By this morning the waters had retired as rapidly as

they had risen, leaving us an outlet to the eastward, though I feared

that to the north-east the waters would still remain. In the evening

Mr. Evans returned, after an interesting though disagreeable journey. His

horses were completely worn out by the difficulties of the country they

had travelled over. His report, which I shall give at length, decided

me as to the steps that were now to be pursued; and I determined on

making nearly an easterly course to the river which he had discovered,

and which was now honoured with the name of Lord Castlereagh. This route

would take us over a drier country, and the river being within a short

distance of Arbuthnot's range, would enable me to examine from those

elevated points the country to the north-east and east; and to decide

how far it might be advisable to trace the river, which it is my present

inclination to do as long as its course continues to the eastward of

north. From Mr. Evans's Journal, it will be perceived that the waters of

the Macquarie have flowed to the north-east, and still continued flowing

among the reeds, which forced him to alter his course. The circumstance

of the river and other large bodies of water crossed by Mr. Evans all

flowing to the north, seems to bear out the conclusion that these waters

have but one common reservoir.

July 19.--A tempestuous night, with thunder, lightning, and rain.

Impressed with the important use we should be able to make of our boats,

it was determined to construct a carriage for the small one, which we

did by the afternoon. Our labour was wasted; for we were altogether

unable to contrive any harness by which the horses could draw it: we

were therefore reluctantly obliged to relinquish our intention.

July 20.--The morning was fine; and after much contrivance, we succeeded

in taking with us whatever was essential to our future security, and the

whole of the provisions except two casks or flour. The horses were,

however, very heavily laden, carrying at least three hundred and fifty

pounds each; a weight which I was fearful the description of country we

had to pass over would render still more burthensome. We had, however,

relinquished every thing that was not indispensable, and the saddle

horses were equally laden with the others. Mount Harris, under

which we had remained for the last fortnight, is in lat. 31. 18. S.,

long. 147. 31. E. and variation 7. 48. On the summit of the hill we

buried

a bottle, containing a written scheme of our purposed route and

intentions, with some silver coin. Our course during the day was east by

north, by compass, over a level country intersected with marshes, over

which the horses travelled with the utmost difficulty, and not without

repeated falls. Considering how heavily they were laden, I was unwilling

to press them at this early period of our journey, and halted after

going seven miles on the above course. From Mount Harris, bearings were

taken to the most remarkable elevations in Arbuthnot's Range, as

follows:

Mount Exmouth, (northern extreme of the range) N. 79. E.

Mount Harrison, (centre) N. 85. E.

Vernon's Peake N. 88. E.

July 21--Proceeded on the same course, through a country of alternate

brush and marsh: whatever obstacles the former opposed to the progress

of the horses, were nothing to the distress occasioned by the latter, in

which they sank up to their knees at every step; I could not suffer them

to proceed farther than seven miles, which, indeed, was not accomplished

without severe labour. It is a singular feature in this remarkable

country, that the botany and soil are in all respects the same as two

hundred and fifty miles farther to the south-west, presenting nothing

new to our researches. Passed a very large chain of ponds now running to

the north-east, and named them Wallis's Ponds, after my friend, Captain

Wallis, of the 46th regiment.

July 22.--We passed over much the same country as yesterday, but having

a large proportion of cypress forest. After travelling nearly ten miles,

we halted on the edge of a very extensive flat, from three to four miles

in diameter, covered with water. From this plain we had an excellent

view of Arbuthnot's Range, which, from so low and level a country,

appears of vast height. The horses failed much during the day, and

several of them were severely wrung with their burthens.

July 23.--The weather continues remarkably fine and favourable to our

progress over these plains. Our course to-day was chiefly through a

thick brush of acacia and cypresses; a few trees of the eucalyptus and

casuarina were intermixed. The marshy ground was not so frequent, and we

effected between eight and nine miles, when we stopped on a small chain

of ponds but now a running strean, doubtless having its rise in the

marshy grounds a few miles south of us: its course was to the north. We

saw and shot several unknown birds within these few days, but the

botanical sameness continues. These ponds were named Morrissett's Ponds,

after Capt. Morrissett, of the 48th regiment.

July 24.--About a mile and a half from last night's station, we crossed

another small stream similar in all respects to Morrissett's Ponds. Our

course was alternately over wet flats and dry brushes; but in the latter

we met with difficulties which we did not anticipate, namely, dry bogs

of a most dangerous description; they are from thirty to forty yards

broad, and the apparent firmness of their surface treacherously conceals

the danger beneath. One was discovered before the horses were too far

advanced to retreat, and by unlading them, we passed safely over.

The horses were upon the other before we discovered the extent of our

danger, and it was only by instantly cutting away their loads and

harness, and by the exertion of all hands, that they were dragged out;

but they were so exhausted by the struggles they had themselves made,

that I found it would be highly imprudent to proceed farther, though we

had only gone five miles and a half. Such of the horses as had not come

up, their loads being carried over, crossed the bog half a mile higher,

where the ground was somewhat firmer. We had this day the misfortune to

find two of our horses much strained in their hind quarters. The soil of

the brushes is in general a light, sandy loam; on the plains it is an

alluvial mould, on a substratum of clay: the water on these plains is

seldom deeper than the ankles, but travelling over them is very

wearisome. Arbuthnot's Range was in sight during the whole day. The

country was so generally level, that it was impossible to discern any

inequality in it. The waters however, ran with a pretty brisk stream

northerly.

July 25.--At nine o'clock we set forward with anxious hopes of reaching

Castlereagh River in the course of the day; we struggled for nine miles

through a line of country that baffles all description: we were

literally up to the middle in water the whole way, and two of the horses

were obliged to be unladen to get them over quicksand bogs. Finding a

place sufficiently dry to pitch our tent on, though surrounded by water,

we halted, both men and horses being too much exhausted to proceed

farther. Mr. Evans thinking we could not be very far from the river,

went forwards a couple of miles, when he came upon its banks. This same

river, which last Wednesday week had been crossed without any

difficulty, was now nearly on a level with its first or inner bank: and

its width and rapidity precluded all hope of our being able to cross it

until its subsidence. This was most perplexing intelligence, our

situation being such that we could neither retreat nor advance beyond

the bank of the river, which Mr. Evans represented as being both higher

and drier ground, and to all appearance sufficiently elevated to protect

us from the flood should it increase: thither I determined to remove in

the morning, and to take such further measures as might be deemed

advisable in our present hazardous situation. Since Mr. Evans re-crossed

the river, we have had no rain in our immediate neighbourhood

sufficient to cause the sudden rise, which therefore must be attributed

to heavy falls among the mountains to the east-south-east, from whence I

have no doubt it derives its source. It was most providential that

Mr. Evans and his companions crossed the river when they did; a single

day might have proved fatal to them. We would fain lessen to our own

imagination the dangers which surround us, and eagerly grasp at every

circumstance that tends in any way to enliven our future prospects. That

Providence, whose protection has hitherto been so beneficently extended

to us, will, we confidently hope, continue that protection, and lead us

in safety to our journey's end.

Owing most probably to the violent motion it experienced, my chronometer

stopped: this accident was the more to be lamented, as the watch with

which I was furnished by the crown had also stopped, and we had now

nothing to regulate our time by.

July 26.--We passed a dreadful night; the elements seemed to be bursting

asunder, and we were almost deluged with rain. Towards noon the weather

partially cleared tip. Our design of moving was however rendered

abortive: we found it impossible to bring the horses near the tents to

lade them, and the rain recommencing with great violence, continued

throughout the day. An inmate of an alarming description took up its

lodging in our tent during the last night, probably washed out of its

hole

by the rain: a large diamond snake was discovered coiled up among the

flour bags, four or five feet from the doctor's bed.

July 27.--This morning the weather cleared up just in time to enable us

to retreat to the river banks in safety, for we were washed out of the

tent. The provisions and heavy baggage were carried by the people to a

firmer spot of ground, at which place the horses being lightly laden, we

got every thing transported to the river by one o'clock. Castlereagh

River is certainly a stream of great magnitude; its channel is divided

by numerous islands covered with trees: it measured in its narrowest

part one hundred and eighty yards, and the flood that had now risen in

it was such as to preclude any attempt to cross it. The outer banks were

good firm land, apparently free from floods, and extending not more on

this side than a quarter of a mile, when it became wet and marshy: the

banks were from twelve to seventeen feet high, and gradually sloped to

the water. The trees on this firm margin of land were a species of

eucalyptus, cypresses, and the sterculia heterophylla, with a few

casuarinae. This river doubtless discharges itself into that interior

gulf, in which the waters of the Macquarie are merged: to that river it

is in no respect inferior, and when the banks are full, the body of

water in it must be even still more considerable. Towards evening I

thought the waters were falling, which was an event we anxiously looked

for, to enable us to proceed to Arbuthnot's Range, from the heights of

which we hoped for an interesting view. Natives appear to be numerous;

their guniahs (or bark-huts) are in every direction, and by their

fire-places several muscle-shells of the same kind as those found on the

Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers were seen. Game (kangaroos and emus),

frequenting the dry banks of the river, were procured in abundance.

July 28.--The river during the night had risen upwards of eight feet;

and still continued rising with surprising rapidity, running at the rate

of from five to six miles per hour, bringing down with it great

quantities of driftwood and other wreck. The islands were all deeply

covered, and the whole scene was peculiarly grand and interesting. The

sudden rise probably was caused by the heavy rains of the preceding

days; but great must be the sources from whence so stupendous a body of

water is supplied, and equally grand must be that reservoir, which is

capable of containing such an accumulation of water as is derived from

this and the Macquarie Rivers; not to mention the supplies from the

occasional streams which had their sources in the marshes which we have

crossed. The water was so extremely thick and turbid, that we could not

use it; but were forced to send back to the marshes for what we wanted.

At night, the river seemed at its greatest height.

July 29.--The waters this day subsided rapidly. It is evident that there

has been no flood in the river for a very considerable period prior to

the present one, there being no marks of wreck or rubbish on the trees

or banks. Now the quantity of matter is astonishing, and, such as must

take some years to remove. The rapid rise and fall in the water would

seem to indicate that neither its source nor its embouchure can be at

any great distance. The former is probably not far east of Arbuthnot's

Range.

August 2.--It was not until this morning that the river had fallen

sufficiently to allow us to ford it. Though the morning was unpromising

with slight rain, it was not deemed prudent to lose a moment in passing

it, while in our power; and by one o'clock every thing was safely over,

to our great satisfaction. Before this, it had begun to rain hard, and

it continued to do so throughout the day, and great part of the

night. Our observations place this part of Castlereagh River in

lat. 31. 14. 14. S., long. 148. 18. E., variation 8. 14. E.

August 3.--A dark cloudy morning. At nine o'clock proceeded on our

eastern course towards Arbuthnot's Range. The river had risen in the

night so considerably, that had we delayed until this morning, we should

have been unable to pass it. The rain had rendered the ground so

extremely soft and boggy, that we found it impossible to proceed above

three-quarters of a mile on our eastern course. We therefore returned,

resolving to keep close to the river's edge, until we should be enabled

to sound the vein of quagmire, with which we appeared to be hemmed in.

In this attempt we were equally unfortunate, the horses falling

repeatedly: one rolled into the river, and it was with difficulty we

saved him: my baggage was on him, and was entirely spoiled; the

chart case and charts were materially damaged, and our spare thermometer

broken: we therefore unladed the horses where they stood, and the men

carried the provisions to a firmer spot, where they were reladen. We

again proceeded easterly, and for upwards of a mile we travelled up to

our knees in water and mud: the horses were here stopped by running

waters from the marshes, encircling a spot of comparatively dry ground;

they were again unladen, and with the utmost difficulty we got every

thing safe over. Both men and horses were so much exhausted by the

constant labour they had undergone, that I determined to halt, in order

to restore our baggage to some order. Our ardent hopes are fixed upon

the high lands of Arbuthnot's Range, which I estimate to be about twenty

miles off. The intermediate country, we fear, will be one continued

morass.

August 4.--Proceeded on our journey. In the seven miles and a half which

we accomplished to-day, the water and bog were pretty equally divided;

and a plain covered with the former was a great relief both to men and

horses, since an apparently dry brush, or forest, was found a certain

forerunner of quicksands and bogs. The natives appear pretty numerous:

one was very daring, maintaining his ground at a distance armed with a

formidable jagged spear and club, which he kept beating against each

other, making the most singular gestures and noises that can be

imagined: he followed us upwards of a mile, when he left us, joining

several companions to the right of us. Emus and kangaroos abound, and

there is a great diversity of birds, some of which have the most

delightful notes, particularly the thrush.

August 5.--At three o'clock we were obliged to give up all attempts to

proceed farther this day; it was with the utmost difficulty we

accomplished six miles: for the last half mile, the horses were not on

their legs for twenty yards together. This, too, was in the middle of an

apparently dry forest of iron bark and cypress trees: the surface gave

way but little to the human tread, but the horses were scarcely on it

before the water sprang at every step, and the ground sank with them to

their girths. In this dilemma, it was agreed to rest for the night, and

in the morning endeavour to proceed to the nearest hill, which appeared

to be distant about two miles and a half, with very light loads upon the

best track we could find, and then return for the remainder of the

baggage and stores. A foreknowledge of the difficulties we should have

to encounter would certainly have prevented me from attempting to reach

these mountains; the nature of this country baffles all reasonable

expectation and conjecture, and that which appears one thing at a

distance, has a quite different form and aspect when more nearly

approached. Neither rivers, brushes, nor marshes, seem to make the least

difference in the vegetation of this singular tract: a dreary uniformity

pervades alike its geology and its botany.

August 6.--At eight o'clock the horses set forward with half the

baggage; with considerable difficulty they at length reached the hill,

and were immediately sent back for the remainder of the stores. The hill

was about three miles from our camp, and from it a view of Arbuthnot's

Range was obtained, distant nine or ten miles: its elevated points were

extremely lofty, and of a dark, barren, and gloomy appearance; the rocks

were of a dark grey, approaching to black, and from their crevices, a

few stunted trees protruded themselves. It was half past three o'clock

before every thing was removed to the foot of the hill, when it was much

too late to think of proceeding, anxious as we were to arrive at the

main range itself. We killed this day one of the largest kangaroos we

had seen in any part of New South Wales, being from one hundred and

fifty to one hundred and eighty pounds weight. These animals live in

flocks like sheep; and I do not exaggerate, when I say that some

hundreds were seen in the vicinity of this hill; it was consequently

named Kangaroo Hill: several beautiful little rills of water have their

source in it, but are soon lost in the immeasurable morass at its base.

August 7.--About a mile from Kangaroo Hill, after crossing a marshy

plain, we came to a limestone rock, spreading in smaller pieces over a

low hill. It is somewhat remarkable, that this stone should again be

found precisely under the same meridian as seen on the Lachlan and

Macquarie Rivers: the same stratum appears to have run from south to

north, upwards of two hundred miles. This hill is certainly its northern

termination, since beyond it the low and marshy plains of the interior

commence. At one o'clock we arrived under the hill which Mr. Evans had

previously ascended: at this spot I intended to remain a couple of days,

as well to refresh the horses, as for the purpose of ascending Mount

Exmouth, from whence I promised myself an extensive view of the country

over which our intended route lay. On ascending the hill before

mentioned, I was surprised with the remarkable effect which the

situation appeared to have on the compass. The station I had chosen was

the highest part, and nearly the centre of the hill; placing the compass

on the rock before me, the card flew round with extreme velocity, and

then suddenly settled at opposite points, the north point becoming the

south. Astonished at such a phenomenon, I made the following

observations. The compass on the rock, Mount Exmouth, bore S. 60. W.

(its true bearing being N. 75. E.), and on raising it gradually to the

eye, the card was violently agitated, and the same point now bore

N. 67. E. About one hundred yards farther south, the compass was again

placed on the rock; the effect on the compass was very different, Mount

Exmouth bore E. 48. S., and the tent in the valley beneath S. 74. W. The

card on raising the compass was rather less agitated than before, and

from

the eye, Mount Exmouth bore N. 77. E., and the tent S. 15. W., the true

bearing of the latter being S. 13 1/2. W. Thus the magnetic fluid seemed

on this spot to have less influence on the needle, than on the spot where

its power was first observed; and at a short distance from the base of

the hill the needle regained its natural position. The rocks, when

broken, were of a dark iron grey: they did not appear to contain any

iron, for when tried at the tent, the magnet had no power over them.

I could not discern any regular stratum of rock, the hill being covered

with large detached stones, many of which formed figures of five and six

sides: the evening was too far advanced to permit any farther

observations to be made. [Note: The island of Cannay, one of the

Hebrides, affects the needle in a nearly similar manner. A rock in it is

named The Loadstone Rock.] Observed the variation of the needle by

azimuth, to be 6. 22. E.

August 8.--We set off early this morning to ascend Mount Exmouth,

distant four or five miles: at its base we crossed a pretty stream of

water, having its source in the Mount; it took us nearly two hours of

hard labour to ascend its rugged summits: we were however amply

gratified for our trouble by the extensive prospect we had of the

surrounding country. Directing our view to the west, Mount Harris and

Mount Forster, whose elevations do not exceed from two to three hundred

feet, were distinctly seen at a distance of eighty-nine miles. These two

spots excepted, from the south to the north it was a vast level,

resembling the ocean in extent and appearance. From east-north-east to

south, the country was broken and irregular; lofty hills arising from

the midst of lesser elevations, their summits crowned with perpendicular

rocks, in every variety of shape and form that the wildest imagination

could paint. To this grand and picturesque scenery, Mount Exmouth

presented a perpendicular front of at least one thousand feet high, when

its descent became more gradual to its base in the valley beneath, its

total elevation being little less than three thousand feet. To the

north-east commencing at N. 33. E., and extending to N. 51. E., a lofty

and magnificent range of hills was seen lifting their blue heads above

the

horizon. This range was honoured with the name of the Earl of Hardwicke,

and was distant on a medium from one hundred to one hundred and twenty

miles: its highest elevations were named respectively Mount Apsley, and

Mount Shirley. The country between Mount Exmouth and this bounding range

was broken into rugged hills, and apparently deep valleys, and several

minor ranges of hills also appeared. The high lands from the east and

south-east gradually lessened to the north-west, when they were lost in

the immense levels, which bound the interior abyss of this singular

country; the gulf in which both water and mountain seem to be as

nothing. Mount Exmouth seems principally composed of iron-stone; and

some of the richest ore I had yet seen was found upon it. On its sides

were many different stones; but its perpendicular cliffs were of a dark

bluish grey colour, shining when broken, very heavy, and close grained.

Mount Harris, and Mount Exmouth, are composed of distinct materials, and

in their formation bear not the slightest resemblance to each other;

the granite of the former being more allied to the hills to the

south-south-east of it, from which however it is distant at least one

hundred miles, a perfect level filling up the intermediate space. Many

new, and otherwise interesting subjects of the indigenous botany were

discovered on the hills: among which were a species of persoonia, not

previously observed, some xanthorrhaeae or grass trees, and two or three

coast plants. The heteromorphous sterculia of the interior, and some

species of eucalyptus of very stunted growth covered its sides, which

however for a considerable distance were not deficient in grass.

Sandstone

was found in large masses in the rivulet at its base, with pebbles of

various colours, and of species none of which was found on the mount

itself. It was near four o'clock before we returned to the tent, highly

gratified with our excursion.

August 9.--In the course of the day, I again ascended Loadstone Hill,

and repeated the experiments made on Friday, with the same results.

Several different stations on the summit were tried, and the needle was

variously affected; the spot where the phenomenon was first observed

seemed to have the greatest effect on the needle. A common sewing needle

was strongly rubbed with a magnet, and balanced on the point of the

rock, when it was much agitated, and the point flew round from the

north to the south. The needle of the circumferenter, taken out of the

box, was affected in a similar manner, only that when balanced on the

rock, the fluid did not possess sufficient power to turn the point more

than one point of the circle instead of quite round, as when balanced in

the compass box. A compound magnet was laid on the rock, and applied to

it in different ways, but it did not seem in any manner affected by the

power which had so surprised us with its effect on the compass. The

weather within the last week has become perceptibly warmer: the

thermometer being seldom under 70 degrees at noon. The fires of the

natives were seen at no great distance from us; and they seem to attend

upon our motions pretty closely. The observations made here placed us in

lat. 31. 13. S., long. 148. 41. 30. E., and I estimate the mean variation

to be about 7 1/2 easterly. We found that no reliance could be placed on

bearings taken with the compass on heights in this vicinity, and I am

fearful that the bearings taken from Mount Exmouth will require

verification, a difference of 4 degrees being observed in some, when

compared with other bearings, which could not be supposed to be affected

by the magnetic fluid.

August 10.--Proceeded on our journey: our course for the first six or

seven miles being to the north-north-east, and afterwards north-east half

east, which latter course I intended to steer for some time. It was the

best day's travelling we had experienced since quitting the Macquarie

River, being generally over low strong ridges, the sides and summits of

some of which were very thick brush of cypress trees, and small shrubs,

particularly the last two miles. We stopped for the evening in an

extensive low valley north of Mount Exmouth, and running under its base,

bounded on the north-east by low forest hills. To the south the hills

were rocky, abrupt, and precipitous. On the whole we accomplished eleven

miles.

August 11.--Our route lay over low valleys of considerable extent of

open forest ground, but so soft and boggy, that it was with difficulty

we made any progress: it would seem that much rain had fallen here

lately, and completely saturated the soil, which is a light, sandy

mould. In these valleys there are small streams of water, having their

origin in the surrounding hills; they all terminate northerly. We could

accomplish but seven miles on a north-east by east course. In the

evening we had an awful storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied with

torrents of rain. The reverberation of sound among the hills was

astonishing. The natives continue in our vicinity unheeded, and

unheeding: even the noise of their mogo upon the trees is a relief from

the otherwise utter loneliness of feeling we cannot help experiencing in

these desolate wilds.

August 12.--We found that we could not maintain our direct course, as

the low ground was so boggy, that the horses were altogether unable to

move on it. Keeping therefore the banks of the little stream where the

ground was firmer, we reached the chain of hills bounding the valley to

the southward: we wound along the base of the hills on a variety of

courses, not being able to quit them twenty yards without being bogged.

Finding that the hills trended too much to the south-west, we kept down

the bed of a small stream for two or three miles, and halted on a fine

apple tree flat of rich land, watered by a very fine small stream, which

was joined by the one we came down. The main strewn ran to the

northward. The apple tree flats are uniformly of firm hard ground, while

the soil on which grow the iron-bark, pine, and box, is as invariably a

loose sand, rendered by the rain a perfect quicksand. These bogs are the

more provoking, as without such impediments the country is clear and

open, and as favourable for travelling over as could be wished: we have

had any thing but a dry season, and it is to the heavy rain which might

naturally be expected to fall near high mountains, that our present

difficulties must be ascribed. We travelled between nine and ten miles,

but our course made good was nearly south-east only five miles. A few

new plants were found: the hills were a mere bed of iron ore.

August 13.--We proceeded at our usual hour; and did not halt till near

sunset, but accomplished no more than six miles, in the course of which

the horses were obliged to be unladen, and the men carried the loads

upwards of half a mile before the horses could be got across the

quicksands. They are indeed properly so termed, consisting of two or

three inches of light mould, on about eighteen inches of loose sand, the

whole covering a rocky or stony bottom. On treading on them, water would

fly up several inches; and it was with difficulty men could pass over

them, much less horses. Quicksands of a similar nature prevented our

reaching a small creek running under a high craggy ridge of hills;

we therefore stopped at the edges of them, every body completely

worn out. The appearance of the country passed over was most desolate

and forbidding, but quite open, interspersed with miserable rocky crags,

on which grew the cypress and eucalyptus. On the more level portions

of the country, a new and large species of eucalyptus, and another of

its genus (the iron bark), were the principal if not the only trees.

Many of the rocks were pointed and basaltic, but the general species

was a coarse sandstone. Miserable as the country was in other respects,

it was fruitful in new plants.

August 14.--As it rained hard during the night, and the rain still

continued to fall in thick showers, I thought it advisable to rest.

August 15.--Cloudy, with strong winds from the south-east. We crossed

the creek about two miles from our resting-place, but soon found that

any attempt to advance in that quarter would be abortive, the morass and

quicksands extending into the very water, and denying all egress. We

therefore recrossed the rivulet about a mile more northerly with better

success, and succeeded in gaining some stony hills, which, with two or

three intervening marshy valleys, continued for the rest of the day's

route; the latter part being up very high, rocky, barren hills, with

narrow defiles. From these heights we descended into a pretty valley of

considerable extent, and, to our great joy, of sound, firm soil, with

plenty of good grass: the water however was strongly impregnated with

iron, so that we could hardly drink it. This valley, which we named

Wiltden Valley, was enclosed on all sides except the north, by lofty,

rocky hills of coarse sandstone, adorned with various species of acacia

in full bloom, with a vast variety of other flowering shrubs of the most

beautiful and delicate description, adding greatly to our botanical

collection. We accomplished in the whole twelve or thirteen miles, about

six of which were in the direction of our proper course.

August 16.--We had hardly begun to lade the horses, when the rain

recommenced with greater violence than in the night, and effectually

prevented us from proceeding. The country presents sufficient

obstructions to our progress, not to render the delay caused by a day's

rain a matter of much inquietude. The loss of time is of little

consideration, when compared with the soft and boggy ground which such

heavy falls leave. A species of banksia was seen to-day under the same

meridian as on the Macquarie. It would seem that particular productions

of the vegetable as well as of the mineral kingdom run in veins nearly

north and south through the country. This peculiarity has been remarked

of other plants, besides the species of banksia.

August 17.--Our course this day led us over a barren, rocky country,

consisting of low stony ranges, divided by valleys of pure sand, and

usually wet and marshy: latterly we appear to be descending from a

considerable height, to a lower country to the north-east. The whole was

a mere scrub covered with dwarf iron barks, apple trees, and small gums;

the soil scarcely any thing but sand, on which grass grew in single

detached roots. The horses fell repeatedly in the course of the day,

and they were now so weak that they sank at every soft place. Between

four and five o'clock, after travelling about ten hours, we stopped at a

small drain of water for the night, having accomplished nearly eleven

miles. In our track we saw no signs of natives, and the country seemed

abandoned of every living thing. Silence and desolation reigned around.

August 18.--It is impossible to describe in adequate language the

different trying obstructions we encountered during this day's journey:

after meeting and overcoming many minor difficulties of bog and

quicksand, we had accomplished nearly eleven miles, and were looking out

for a place to rest, when we entered a very thick forest of small iron

barks which had been lately burnt; and their black stems and branches,

with the dull bluish colour of their foliage, gave the whole a

singularly dismal and gloomy appearance. So thick was the forest that we

could hardly turn our horses, nor could the sun's rays penetrate to the

sandy desert on which these trees grew. Without the usual appearances of

a bog, our horses were in an instant up to their bellies, and the

difficulties we had in extricating them would hardly obtain belief. In

this dilemma, scarcely able to see which way to turn, we traversed the

margin of this extensive quicksand for nearly three miles in a direction

contrary to our course, before we could find firm ground or water for

the horses, which we did not effect till sunset; and then (as for the

last three days) there was nothing for them to eat but prickly grass,

which possesses no nourishing qualities. This fare, after their hard

labour, reduces them daily.

August 19.--After wandering about the whole day without gaining any

thing on our course, for the quicksands kept us revolving as it were in

a circle, the exhaustion of the horses obliged us to stop. It was

painful to behold them, after being disencumbered of their loads, lay

themselves down like dogs about us: it was the fourth day that they had

been without grass, and they preferred the tender branches of shrubs,

etc., to the prickly grass. The backs of the greater part of them were,

notwithstanding every care, dreadfully galled, so that they could, when

first saddled, scarcely stand under their burdens. These quicksands lie

in the hollows between the low irregular hills, which rise on this

otherwise level country: their point of discharge is uniformly

north-westerly. The union of many of these minor drains forms

occasionally a large one, and the points of the hills which meet upon

them afford the only means of crossing them. It was evident that the

early part of the winter had been very wet., and the late rains had

probably been the cause of these morasses, which still continued to

drain themselves off in running water. This region must at all times be

impassable from opposite causes: in wet seasons it is a bog; in dry

ones, there is no water. Finding, as above remarked, that northerly and

north-east the country declined as it were to nothing, it was resolved

to pursue a more easterly course than that hitherto followed; and

instead of attempting to go round the morasses which we might meet with

to the north, to follow them southerly, a course which in time must

certainly take us to a more elevated country. Such a road is rendered

now absolutely necessary by the condition of the horses. Our dogs, which

had so long contributed to our support, had been for the last four days

dependant upon us for theirs, and we were too much indebted to their

exertions not to share our meals with them with cheerfulness. These

woods abound with kangaroo rats, and it is singular that, pinched as the

dogs were, they would not touch them even when cooked.

August 20.--This day after travelling upwards of nine miles, and having

pushed the horses at the risk of their lives through two minor branches

of the bog, what was our mortification to find, that we were within a

few hundred yards of the spot we set out from! We had first attempted

to cross the main bog northerly, and afterwards kept along its edge

southerly; and the result was, that we found it to extend in a complete

circle around us. From a slight rise in the centre of it, we could see

the country to the north-east, north, and north-west, low and uneven;

Hardwicke's Range distant about forty miles, bounding it between the

north and east. The result of this day's exertion quite subdued our

fortitude, and for a moment a feeling nearly allied to despair had

possession of our minds. We knew not which way to turn ourselves. To

return to Arbuthnot's Range, and again undergo what it had cost us so

much to overcome, could not be thought of for a moment; but upon that

mature reflection which our serious situation demanded, it was deemed

the most prudent plan to return so far back as would enable us to reach

the higher lands to the south-east. This we expected to do by Saturday

evening: twenty miles back we had left land of considerable elevation;

and we could only hope that in its vicinity we should find a dry ridge

on which to accomplish our purpose, and occasionally a patch of country

in which the horses might find subsistence; for they were at present

very much reduced.

August 23.--We returned yesterday to Parry's Rivulet, within twelve

miles of Weltden Valley, which was the whole distance we had gone in the

direction of our course towards the coast, although we had travelled

during the week upwards of seventy miles. The weather for the last four

days has been extremely tempestuous, with slight showers of hail and

rain: the winds were chiefly from the west and north-west, the

temperature being extremely cold for the latitude and season. The

observations of to-day place this station in lat. 30. 57. 20.,

long. 149. 20. E. Variation 8. 42. E.

August 24.--We were a little surprised at finding that a severe frost

had taken place during the night, and that the thermometer was now as

low as 28 degrees. Ice lay within a few yards of our fire, of the

thickness of a dollar. Our course throughout the day was southerly, and

led us up the banks of Parry's Rivulet. We experienced fewer

difficulties than on any day since we had entered this desert, and

accomplished between nine and ten miles, at the end of which we entered

a small valley of good forest ground with tolerable grass; though early

in the day, the horses needed refreshment too much, not to induce me to

stop here for the remainder of it: as we could not at the utmost have

gone above two miles farther. This valley, and the appearance of forest

hills to the southward, gave us strong hopes that by continuing our

present course for a day or two longer we should get into a better line

of country, and be enabled to resume our easterly course. Parry's

Rivulet was here a series of large ponds, near which were traces of

natives, but of old date. In this desert, we have never met with any

signs that can lead us to believe it has ever been before crossed by any

human being.

August 25.--A smart frost during the night: the morning fine and clear.

At eight o'clock we proceeded on our route, taking a more easterly

direction according to circumstances. Between three and four miles from

our camp, we had an extensive view to the east and south-east, and saw

with extreme satisfaction a lofty chain of fine forest hills thinly

timbered, bearing east-south-east of us; and distant fourteen or fifteen

miles. To the east were extensive flats, bare of timber, and apparently

either composed of white sand, or covered with dead grass; our distance

would not enable us to distinguish which: these flats were bounded by

remote rising hills seemingly clear and open. A high peak, bearing

north, was named Kerr's Peak; and a very lofty mount, under which the

west extremity of the plains lay, was named Mount Tetley: and the

westernmost remarkable hill in the chain first mentioned, Whitwell Hill.

The bogginess and ruggedness of our route, for the remainder of the day,

sufficiently tried our strength: we accomplished however thirteen miles,

and halted in a small valley about four miles south of Whitwell Hill.

This valley was bounded east and west by rocky hills, but the soil was

better, and the grass of good quality. The base of these hills was of

close-grained white-coloured granite, or whinstone: the summits of good

freestone: on the sides several good pieces of iron ore were picked up.

August 26.--While Mr. Evans proceeded with the horses on an eastern

course for Mount Tetley, Dr. Harris and myself went towards the spacious

valley at the foot of Whitwell Hill. This we soon reached, and travelled

down its centre, along the banks of a beautiful stream of water which

fertilized and drained it. The extent of this valley towards the

south-west, we could not discover, as its windings were lost among the

forest hills in that direction. We went down to the east between seven

and eight miles, when we rejoined the horses at the base of an elevated

conical hill, standing detached at its east entrance, which was here

four or five miles wide. On ascending this hill, the view which was on

all sides presented to our delighted eyes was of the most varied and

exhilarating kind. Hills, dales, and plains of the richest description

lay before us, bounded to the east by fine hills, beyond which were seen

elevated mountains. To the north-east an extensive valley, from eight to

ten miles wide, led to Hardwicke's Range, being a distance of about

thirty-five miles. In this great valley were numerous low hills and

plains, thinly studded with timber, and watered by the stream, down the

banks of which we had travelled. From its eastern side, these low hills

gradually rose to a loftier elevation: but were still thinly timbered,

and covered with grass. To the east-south-east, and south-east, clear

plains extended to the foot of very lofty forest hills, at a medium

distance of from twenty-five to forty miles. These were the plains seen

on our yesterday's route, and which we feared were sand. We found them

to consist of a rich dry vegetable soil; and although, from their vast

extent, they may, as a whole, be properly denominated plains, yet their

surfaces were slightly broken into gentle eminences with occasional

clumps, and lines of timber. Their white appearance was occasioned by

the grass having been burnt early in the year, and the young growth

killed by the frosts. The little rivulet, that watered the north-west

side of this track of country, had overflowed within these few days; but

the ground left by the retreating waters was as firm and solid, as those

parts which had not been touched. The sides of the hills were of the

same black mould, stony towards their summits, and the higher eminences

rocky. The rocks were of a very hard whinstone, the stratum nearly

perpendicular, or rather standing up in regular basaltic figures,

similar to those on Loadstone Hill. These valleys and hills abound with

kangaroos, and on the plains numbers of emus were seen. We seemed to be

once more in the land of plenty, and the horses as well as men had cause

to rejoice at the change, from the miserable harassing deserts through

which we had been struggling for the last six weeks, to this beautiful

and fertile country. From the hill on which we stood, bearings were

taken to the most remarkable points and objects connected with the

survey; and the most distinguished, in point of beauty or singularity of

appearance, were honoured with distinctive appellations. The valley down

which we had travelled was called Lushington's Valley (after the

Secretary to His Majesty's Treasury); the extensive one to the

north-east, leading to Hardwicke's Range, Camden Valley (after the noble

Marquis); the plains to the east and south-east were honoured with the

name of Lord Liverpool; the hills bounding Lushington's Valley, on the

south side, Vansittart's Hills, after the Chancellor of the Exchequer;

while several less remarkable hills were designated after persons

endeared to our recollections by early friendship. A great variety of

new plants rewarded the exertions of our botanist, in ascending Mount

Tetley; and many, hitherto only known on the coast, were discovered on

the hills and in the valleys: the acacia pendula was also seen; it had

hitherto been the usual characteristic of wet lands, but it was here

growing on the most dry and elevated situations. The timber on the

plains and hills was chiefly those species of eucalyptus called apple

tree, box, and gum trees; and on the banks of the rivulet were a few

large casuarina. So much time was consumed in ascending hills and

examining the country, that we did not go more than ten miles on a

direct course: it was however time well bestowed. Three native fires

were seen in Lushington's Valley, but the whole of this part of the

country appears to be very thinly inhabited; a few wandering families

making up the total of its population. The small rivulet in Lushington's

Valley was named Yorke's Rivulet, in honour of Sir J. S. Yorke.

August 27.--Pursuing our course to the eastward, towards the range of

low hills bordering the plains in that quarter, between five and six

miles, we came to a fine stream of water, crossing the plains from the

south to the north. There had been a flood in this rivulet within these

few days, marks of which were observed about fifteen feet high; but

still within the banks. It appears that the plains are chiefly flooded

from Yorke's Rivulet, the remaining waters of which, together with

rain-water, were in several places still standing on the surface; but

not to the extent that the horizontal level of these plains would have

led me to suppose would probably be the case. The far greater portion

was a rich dry soil, and that the water is never permanent on any part

of them is clearly demonstrated by the total absence of any aquatic or

bog plants. From this rivulet, the three main branches of these immense

plains were clearly visible to the east by south-south-east, and

north-east. Of the extent of the two former, we could only judge from

the lofty bounding chains of hills in those quarters; and which we could

not estimate to be nearer than from forty-five to fifty miles.

Hardwicke's Range bounded these to the north-east, with many intervening

beautiful hills and valleys. We found the distance across the plains to

the hill where we stopped, to be upwards of fourteen miles on an east

line. Chains and ridges of low forest hills, which gradually rise from the

horizontal level, are scattered over these plains, and stand for the most

part detached like islands; varying the scenery in a most picturesque

manner, as they are generally clothed with wood of apple tree, cypress,

and other species of eucalyptus, intermingled with various acacias in full

flower. Mr. Evans ascended Mount Tetley to take bearings from it. He found

the compass to be affected in a similar manner to that remarked on

Loadstone Hill; the north point of it when placed on the rock, becoming

the south. This remarkable alteration of the needle was also observed on

several other hills in this vicinity, but in a less degree; the bearings

generally varying from two to three points from the truth. On the hill

under which we stopped this evening, named View Hill, the needle varied

three points. In consequence of the heavy rains and recent floods,

travelling on many parts of these plains was very heavy; the soil being a

rick loose loam, of a dark red approaching to a black colour, but of

great apparent fertility and strength: some hundreds of kangaroos and

emus were seen in the course of the day. We killed several, the dogs

being absolutely fatigued with slaughter: the game was by no means shy,

but came close up to us, as if to examine us. Indeed I do not think they

are much disturbed by natives, of whom we have seen few signs in this

neighbourhood. The stream crossing the plains was named Bowen's Rivulet,

in honour of Commissioner Bowen, of the Navy Board.