The river, as we had conjectured it would, trended this day again to the

north-east. The country passed over was low and nearly level. The points

and immediate banks were deeply flooded, forming extensive morasses, and

there were generally between them and the drier and more elevated land

deep serpentine lagoons, the water in which was clear and transparent,

it having been apparently a long time since that of the river had filled

them. The back land was a red sandy loam, very light, covered with

acacia bushes, spear-wood, and small cypresses; the only herbage, a

coarse tea-grass; and yet I do not think the kind of soil which appears

to be the universal one upon the drier lands, can be strictly called

barren: I have seen apparently much worse soils in a state of

cultivation. We crossed one or two large plains, clear of wood and even

bushes; the soil a stiff tenacious clay, which, though not flooded by

the river, retains all the water that falls upon it, there being no

descent or fall by which it can be conveyed to its natural drain, the

river. These plains were now dry and hard, and having been lately burnt,

the coarse natural herbage springing up fresh, gave them a pleasing

green appearance. One or two beautiful new shrubs in seed and flower

were found to-day, to the great satisfaction of the botanists, who had

not lately made many very splendid or valuable additions to their

collections.

A party of natives was seen on the opposite side of the river,

consisting of one man, two lads, and two women; they disappeared as soon

as they observed us.

The flood had swollen the stream to a considerable breadth; it was at

least sixty feet wide at the spot where we stopped, and was about six

feet below the banks.

July 28.--The waters in the stream continue stationary. There must

have been heavy rains to the eastward, to maintain at this height such

a body of water. As to the rains that fall westward of the Blue

Mountains, I am clearly of opinion, that they are in no way auxiliary in

forming this stream. The soil, the general level surface, without a

single water-course north or south, prove that all the waters which fall

are quickly absorbed; and I think it very probable that rain falls here

extremely seldom, and never simultaneously with the rain of the eastern

coast and mountains.

The day was full of cross accidents, and ended in the separation of the

expedition for the first time. The river turned suddenly north, whilst

extensive swamps ran out from it to the south-east, backed by thick

scrubby land, which we afterwards found, having taken another sudden

bend into the north-west, to be at a considerable distance, and which we

had some difficulty in finding at all, the smaller plains being

separated from the larger one by lagoons, edged with trees similar to

those on the banks of the river.

Not having been able to find the rest of my companions this evening, I

halted with three men on the spot where we reached the river, firing

muskets, that if any of the missing party were near, they might be

enabled to join us in the morning.

The bendings of the river were singularly remarkable, trending suddenly

from south-east by east to north-north-west, and then back to the north

and north-east; I mean the principal bending in the general course, for

the smaller ones were as usual innumerable.

Of the swamps, which in places, extended from eight to ten miles from

the river south-east and south, some parts were dry and others under

water; and there were occasionally large lagoons covered with

innumerable wild fowl of various descriptions. Great numbers of

native companions, bustards, and emus, were seen on the plains, Which, at

the termination of our day's journey, were of a better and drier

description than usual. The north-east hills bounding them were low,

thinly studded with trees, and although rocky on the summits, were

covered with green tea-grass. The flood in the river was very high, but

from the appearance of the banks, which were about five feet from the

water, I did not think it had risen much in the course of the day.

July 29.--At day-light sent a man on horseback to search for our missing

companions up the river, as we thought we had heard a musquet in that

direction in reply to one of ours. The man shortly returned, having met

with two men whom I had seen yesterday looking for their horses; they

had been joined by Mr. Cunningham, and had encamped about half a mile

higher up the stream than ourselves: of Mr. Evans's party, consisting

besides himself of five men, they had heard or seen nothing, nor had

they fallen in with any of their marks. At half-past eight o'clock I

proceeded with the horses up the river to join the two men, expecting

also that Mr. Evans would certainly return downwards when he found that

we did not join him. It was twelve o'clock before we found him, and we

then proceeded up the river, whilst one man and myself went to a clear

hill in the range of Mount Byng, and from which we expected a good

prospect. We passed over a large plain, washed by the river; the soil, a

stiff red clayey loam, long parched by drought; the sides of the hill

light red sandy loam. Small blue gum-trees, box, cypress, and a

multitude of acacia shrubs of various species, were the usual

productions of the drier and more elevated grounds.

Our expectations of an extensive prospect from the top of the hill were

not disappointed: we had a distinct view round the compass. The river

wound close under the foot of the hill, and trending to the south-east

through low marshy grounds covered with atriplex bushes and the acacia

pendula, evidently and distinctly showed that it originated in the

separated branches of the Lachlan, which it is probable united fifteen

or twenty miles below Mount Cunningham, forming the present stream. The

north-east side of the river was equally low and marshy. All the points

which had been set at Mount Cunningham were distinctly recognised, and

bearings being now taken to them, served to correct and prove the

survey. The bearings taken from this hill, named Piper's Hill, were as

follows by the theodolite:

Mount Cunningham E. 9 deg. 20 min. S.

Mount Meyrick S. 67 10 E.

Mount Maude S. 62 0 E.

Table Hill S. 4 30 E.

Line of Mount Byng,

called Watson Taylor's range E. 7 0 W.

Mount Granard N. 79 0 W.

Mount Barrer N. 68 0 W.

about the same distance as Mount Granard.

Extreme of a high range from N. 59 1/2 W., to N. 24 1/2 W.;

nearest extreme distance about thirty miles, westward 45.

Extremes of another range from N. 10. W., to N. 2. W.,

about twelve miles long; another range, N. 3. E. to N. 50 1/2 E

Hurd's Peak, N. 72. E.; a mount north of it (Mount Hawkins),

N. 71. 15. E.; a distant one, N. 86 1/2 E (Mount Riley).

Low ranges in N. 44. E., N. 35. E. and N. 26 1/2 E.,

all the intermediate spaces being low level land.

On descending, we waited on the stream till the arrival of Mr. Evans,

about half-past three o'clock, when we halted.

It was determined that as we had now ascertained the course of the

Lachlan, from the depot to its termination, any farther trace of it,

running as it did from the south-east, would take us materially out of

our

purposed course to Bathurst, without answering any good purpose, at the

same time that we should entangle ourselves in the mushy grounds which

had been seen both from Mount Cunningham, Farewell Hill, and our present

station; and that therefore we should immediately proceed to construct a

raft on which we might transport our provisions and baggage across the

river, afterwards taking such a course as we deemed most likely to bring

us to the Macquarie river, and so keep along its banks to Bathurst.

This work, and the task of getting the baggage over, will take two days

to

accomplish.

The stream where we stopped was about four feet from the banks, running

with much rapidity; and I think the flood in it has rather increased

than abated.

Almost directly under the hill near our halting-place, we saw a tumulus,

which was apparently of recent construction (within a year at most). It

would seem that some person of consideration among the natives had been

buried in it, from the exterior marks of a form which had certainly been

observed in the construction of the tomb and surrounding seats. The form

of the whole was semicircular. Three rows of seats occupied one half,

the grave and an outer row of seats the other; the seats formed segments

of circles of fifty, forty-five, and forty feet each, and were formed by

the soil being trenched up from between them. The centre part of the

grave was about five feet high, and about nine long, forming an oblong

pointed cone [Note: See the drawing].

I hope I shall not be considered as either wantonly disturbing the

remains of the dead, or needlessly violating the religious rites of an

harmless people, in having caused the tomb to be opened, that we might

examine its interior construction. The whole outward form and appearance

of the place was so totally different from that of any custom or

ceremony in use by the natives on the eastern coast, where the body is

merely covered with a piece of bark and buried in a grave about four

feet deep, that we were induced to think that the manner of interring

the body might also be different. On removing the soil from one end of

the tumulus, and about two feet beneath the solid surface of the ground,

we came to three or four layers of wood, lying across the grave, serving

as an arch to bear the weight of the earthy cone or tomb above. On

removing one end of those layers, sheet after sheet of dry bark was taken

out, then dry grass and leaves in a perfect state of preservation, the

wet or damp having apparently never penetrated even to the first

covering of wood. We were obliged to suspend our operation for the

night, as the corpse became extremely offensive to the smell, resolving

to remove on the morrow all the earth from the top of the grave, and

expose it for some time to the external air before we searched farther.

July 30.--Employed in preparing dead cypress-trees for the timber of the

raft. The rain continued throughout the day without intermission. and

prevented us from making much progress with it. This morning we removed

all the earth from the tomb and grave, and found the body deposited

about four feet deep in an oval grave, four feet long and from eighteen

inches to two feet wide. The feet were bent quite up to the head, the

arms having been placed between the thighs. The face was downwards, the

body being placed east and west, the head to the east [Note: "Nay,

Cadwal, we must lay his head to the east; my father has a reason for

it."--CYMBELINE.].

It had been very carefully wrapped in a great number of oppossum skins,

the head bound round with the net usually worn by the natives, and also

the girdle: it appeared after being enclosed in those skins to have been

placed in a larger net, and then deposited in the manner before

mentioned. The bones and head showed that they were the remains of a

powerful tall man. The hair on the head was perfect, being long and

black; the under part of the body was not totally decayed, giving us

reason to think that he could not have been interred above six or eight

months. Judging from his hair and teeth, he might have been between

thirty and forty years of age: to the west and north of the grave were

two cypress-trees distant between fifty and sixty feet; the sides

towards the tomb were barked, and curious characters deeply cut upon

them, in a manner which, considering the tools they possess, must have

been a work of great labour and time. Having satisfied our curiosity,

the whole was carefully re-interred, and restored as near as possible to

the station in which it was found. The river fell in the course of the

day near two feet.

July 31.--Again employed in the construction of our raft, which I hope

will be completed sufficiently early to-morrow to allow us time to get

every thing over, and encamp on the other side. The river fell about two

feet in the course of the day, and still continues to fall rapidly. The

dogs were very successful, killing three emus and a small kangaroo.

August 1.--Still employed on the raft, which will be ready for use about

one o'clock. The river fell a foot during the night, but the trees that

would have been useful to us are still under water. The mean of the

different observations made here gave the following results.

Mean lat. 33 deg. 04 min. 02 sec. S.

Comp. long. 146 31 50 E.

Variation 7 23 00 E.

The series of triangles by which the longitude from our situation on the

17th of May has been computed, corresponds precisely with the bearings

taken from this station to the principal objects forming their bases,

and whose relative situation on the chart had been fixed on the 17th of

May; it was extremely satisfactory to find in so extensive a survey that

the angles should thus so completely verify our situation.

Our raft was finished and launched by one o'clock; its capability of

carrying any burden we had to put upon it fully answered our

expectations; but here its utility ended, the violence of the current

caused by the high flood or the stream rendered all our labour abortive,

as no exertions we were capable of making could enable us to get it

across the stream. We had stretched a line across the river by which to

tow it over, but the men were not able to withstand the force of the

current acting on the body of the raft; they let go their line and were

carried about three quarters of a mile down, when they were brought up

by some trees and got safe on shore, making the raft fast. The flood had

been slowly subsiding all day, giving us hopes that we should still be

enabled to fell some trees for a bridge, which was now our only

resource, as it was considered most advisable to use our utmost efforts

to cross here rather than go farther up the stream.

August 2.--Cloudy weather with heavy rain during the night, which still

continues. We commenced felling some trees, which we were in hopes would

answer our purpose, our anxiety to cross being very great; as it is

probable, from the long continued fine weather we have experienced until

lately, that the rainy season in this part of the country may shortly

set in, which would extremely embarrass and distress us.

We were again disappointed in our hopes of crossing by means of trees,

as the flood which still continued swept them away as soon as felled. I

sent Byrne up the stream to endeavour to find a better Place; but he

returned in the afternoon without any success: he reported that about

three or four miles above the tent a branch joined the stream, that he

had travelled up it six or seven miles, but not far enough to say where

it quitted the main stream; the low plains were several inches under

water from the present rain; and the ground that appeared the driest was

the worst to travel on, being a wet, loose, sandy bog. As the flood

continued rapidly to subside, we resolved upon again trying the raft

to-morrow morning; all hands were accordingly sent to tow her up, which

was accomplished by night.

August 3.--A bleak cold morning, with continued small rain. At day-light

we set to work with our raft: and after many trials had the

satisfaction to find that we should succeed in getting over our baggage.

Whilst Mr. Evans superintended this work, I rode up the river with Byrne

to see the branch: I found it but an inconsiderable one, being merely a

lagoon, except in times of flood like the present, when it appears

nearly as large as the parent stream; it forms an island ten or twelve

miles long, and from two to four broad. The impossibility of our

travelling up this side was demonstrated, as well as the nature of these

lower grounds or clear plains, which retain all the water that falls

upon them, the little inequalities forming shallow pools. It was much

better travelling over them, than on a low ridge of hills a couple of

miles from the river on which I returned; the soil of the latter being

so loose and boggy as to render it difficult for the horses to proceed.

On my return I found considerable progress had been made in transporting

our luggage, and by four o'clock every thing was safely crossed; our

little bark was however completely water logged, and at last would

scarcely support a single man, though when first launched, three or four

might venture in her with safety.

As I think the state of the seasons in New South Wales may serve to

explain, at least partially, why there are no running streams in

the western parts of it, it may be worth while to make some little

inquiry into that subject. It appears to me that it can never rain

simultaneously westward of the Blue Mountains and on the coast,

for these reasons: first, That the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers,

being the sole channels by which the waters falling on the Blue Mountain

range are conveyed westward to the low-lands, are always flooded in

times of great rains in those mountains and on the coast; secondly, that

the winter, that is to say, the period between March and August, is the

time when the rains are most to be expected, and have most generally

fallen on the east coast, and which so falling would naturally cause a

flood in the streams above mentioned; thirdly, that in the summer

season, or from September to February, which is certainly the driest

period of the year, the rains fall westward of the Blue Mountains; but

falling upon flat sandy land without any watercourses, do not in the

smallest degree add to the waters of the Lachlan or Macquarie, which are

then consequently in a state nearly if not entirely stagnant. It is at

this season, therefore, that these streams are visited by the natives,

as they are then enabled to procure the shell and other fish which abound

in them. The tracks and impressions made by the feet of the natives were

certainly made when the ground was very soft and marshy, whilst their

guneahs were merely the branches of trees, and erected in places which we

found to be swamps, but which in summer would, in comparison with the

plains, be dry ground, the waters from them being drained off into

the river.

The Blue Mountain range is by far the highest in New South Wales; the

ranges westerly, though high when viewed from the low grounds from which

they rise, cannot in any respect be compared with them.

In the summer, the north-east and south-east winds coming from the sea

are forced over these mountains, and the vapours with which they are

charged are attracted by the lower ranges westerly, and converted into

rain. In the winter, the prevailing winds on the coast and inland, as is

evident from the trees on the tops of the hills, are from south-west to

north-west. In the winter, these westerly winds blowing over a vast

extent of country, and coming with great violence on the Blue Mountains,

confine those clouds and vapours which would occasion rain, to the

vicinity of the coast, and the eastern side of the mountains. A wet

summer on the east coast would occasion a flood in the Lachlan at that

season; and should the rains then be attended with easterly winds,

causing rain on the western side also, the whole low country must be

under water for a double reason. This is a circumstance which, I think,

could seldom happen, otherwise the consequence to the miserable natives

must be dreadful.

It may be remembered that for nearly two years (viz. 1814 and 1815),

scarcely a drop of rain fell on the east coast of New South Wales; and

when the country about Bathurst was first visited, it bore marks of

being similarly affected by drought. The last summer was a very wet one

on the east coast; at the depot on the Lachlan, during that period when

the rains were heaviest (in February), the people enjoyed the finest

weather, at the same time the river was constantly flooded, sometimes

rising to a great height in the most sudden manner.

Since the present expedition has been out it has generally enjoyed dry,

clear weather, otherwise we could not have travelled. Our meteorological

journal will, when compared with one kept at Sydney, throw farther light

upon this subject; and I merely hazard the above ideas as hints for a

more general and extended view of the natural causes which seem to

govern the seasons in this truly singular country.

Another proof (if more were wanting) that the river is only periodically

full and flowing, I think may be derived from the numberless windings of

the stream, setting aside the general course. If the water was always

running, it would doubtless have forced a straighter channel through the

soft, loose, sandy, loamy country through which it flows; it being also

remembered that there is not a single stone or rock to be found along

the whole banks of the river: the few low rocky hills that terminate

upon it, either have a narrow slip of soft land between their base and

the river, or the country is flat to a considerable distance on the

opposite shore. Its windings and sudden bends are so remarkable, that I

am sure I under estimate it, when I consider that on a straight line of

ten miles from point to point, the water passes over twenty-five miles;

in many places, from thirty to thirty-five would be within the truth.

The animals differing from those in the neighbourhood of Bathurst are

but few: the principal is a new species of red kangaroo; a smaller

species of the same, having a head delicately formed, called by us the

rabbit-kangaroo. Two other birds besides the pigeon and cockatoo

beforementioned may be noticed: we suppose them to be both birds of

night, being only heard at that time; neither of them was seen: one was

remarkable for exactly imitating the calls of the natives, the other the

short sharp bark of the native dog, insomuch that our dogs were

constantly deceived by the noise.

August 4.--Proceeded to the north-east by east, intending to keep that

course for two or three days, to clear us of the low grounds north of

the Lachlan, before we bent more easterly for Bathurst; the above course

would also carry us so far northward, as to ensure our falling in with

the Macquarie at a considerable distance from the settlement, and also

enable us to discover if any similar streams had their source westerly

of the high range from whence the coal river derives its source, as we

shall then be some miles north of that port.

Our route lay through a low wet country for the first eight or ten

miles, the flats covered with the acacia pendula; the last three miles

were rather more elevated: the soil in general a loose, red, sandy loam,

with small cypress, box, and acacia trees; a few acres in patches had

been burned, occasionally relieving the eye from the otherwise barren

scrubby appearance of the country. We passed through two or three small

eucalyptus scrubs, and upon getting out of one, having gone thirteen

miles and a quarter, we fortunately happened to fall in with a native

well, containing a few gallons of water sufficient for our own supply;

whilst the open level land which the scrub led to having been burnt, we

hoped would afford succulent herbage sufficient for the horses, and

prevent them from suffering from the want of water. Our course was

N. 69 E. thirteen miles.

August 5.--The water for our breakfast drained our little well to the

dregs. Hoping that we should be more fortunate in this day's route, at

half past eight o'clock we again set forward, on the same point as

yesterday.

The first four miles of our course led through one of those dreadful

scrubs of eucalyptus dumosa, and prickly grass, which we had often

before experienced; it was on rather an elevated plain, and, exclusive

of the difficulty of forcing a passage through it, was extremely boggy

and distressing to the horses. After passing through it, the country for

five or six miles farther was more open, the same elevated plain or

level still continuing, being thinly studded with box and cypress trees,

with abundance of acacia and other shrubs: the soil a loose, red, sandy

loam. At the tenth mile we providentially found a small muddy hole of

water which, bad as it was, refreshed both men and horses extremely;

fearing, from the appearance of the country, that we should not find any

water farther on, we filled our small keg, containing nearly three

gallons, which would at all events free us from absolute want. We went

four miles farther through the same desert country, when evening drawing

on, and the small trees and shrubs becoming thicker, we thought it best

to stop before we again encountered an eucalyptus brush; which not

affording the smallest fodder for the horses, would, added to the want

of water, render them in all probability unable to take either us or

themselves out of the desert in which we were.

The spot we halted on afforded some dry tea-grass and a few syngeneceous

shrubs; and praying for a heavy dew to moisten them, we hoped the

animals would not on the whole fare much worse than ourselves.

The rain which had fallen while we were on the river was not perceptible

here; indeed I think sufficient to deluge any other country must fall,

before it is seen on the surface of such a soil as prevails in this part

of New South Wales. A little rain renders it however so soft and slimy

as to make it difficult to travel over; and I should conjecture, from

the milky whiteness of the water in the holes we have seen, that it

rests on a substratum of white clay three or four feet below the

surface; the water holes at least had that bottom, although their

margins were of the red, sandy loam before mentioned.

An accident happened to the vessel containing the mercury of the

artificial horizon, by which the greater part was lost, leaving scarcely

sufficient for use. It had been a matter of surprise to me that such a

misfortune had not occurred sooner, the box containing the instruments,

etc., being so shaken by the horse forcing his way through the scrubs,

that I considered myself extremely fortunate not to have been deprived

of the use of them long before. To carry barometers, and other

delicately constructed mathematical instruments, safely through such a

journey as the present is impossible. Our course made good was N. 68 E.,

distance thirteen miles and a half. The evening fine and clear.

August 6.--Proceeded on our course, which led us for nine or ten miles

through what might be termed an open forest country, with respect to the

timber growing on it, but it was overrun with mimosa and acacia bushes,

many of which were coming into flower, relieving in some measure the

sombre foliage of the cypress and box trees which were scattered among

them: it was rather an elevated tract that we travelled through, with

such gentle rises and descents as to be almost imperceptible from a

level surface. I ascended a hill about three miles north of the road,

but could see nothing remarkable in any direction, the whole appearing

irregularly broken into low hills and valleys, thickly clothed with

small trees and bushes. At the eighth mile we came upon a small

waterhole, which our poor horses soon emptied; again at the tenth mile,

just at the commencement of a very broken stony range, we also found a

few gallons of water, which the horses also enjoyed, it being much too

muddy for our use; and besides, we had hopes that after passing the

range of hills in which we were about to enter, we should find water on

the other side. The range continued in short broken hills for upwards of

three miles and a half, and led through such a country as distressed

both men and horses exceedingly: the surface was covered with small

quartz stones, without herbage of any kind. The box and cypress trees

disappeared, and their place was supplied by a numerous species of iron

bark, between which the acacia, mimosa, and a new prickly acacia

rendered it almost impossible to force a passage: after enduring this for

upwards of three miles and a half, we began to descend, by keeping a

more easterly course; but before we could come into a better country,

either for grass or water, we were obliged to halt for the night, being

too much fatigued to proceed farther.

Our search after water was not attended with success, but the ground

being extremely boggy, we were in hopes of procuring a little by

digging. Our spade, which had so unfortunately been left at Bathurst,

would now have been of the most essential service, but the carpenter's

adze proved a useful substitute. Choosing a place which seemed most

likely to have received the drainings of the hills, and on which a

little rain-water still remained, we dug a tolerably good well, and in a

few hours were rewarded by obtaining near a quart of thick muddy water

per man, which by boiling, skimming, and straining, was rendered

palatable to persons who must otherwise have gone without their dinner

or breakfast the next morning, it being impossible to eat either our

bread or pork without something to quench our thirst.

The soil of the country passed over was of the same red, sandy

description as on former days; the hills were covered with small pieces

of broken white quartz, and occasionally a large granite rock showed

itself from beneath the surface. The botanical productions of the hills

seemed also to undergo a considerable change, indicating, as we would

fain hope, that a better country is not far off. Several new plants were

acquired today, some of which were very beautiful. Our course made good

was N. 71. E., distance thirteen miles and a half.

August 7.--The horses suffered much from want of food and water; but it

is absolutely necessary to proceed and get into a better country with

all the expedition which we are capable of using, and which the nature

of this country will allow. It is some consolation to us that the horses

are but lightly loaded, by reason of our not being now encumbered with

much provisions, and are consequently enabled to travel farther and

better. At half past eight o'clock we again set forward, and for four

miles and a quarter continued to pass through the same thick, barren

country as yesterday, the ground being absolutely covered with acacia

of various species, some extremely beautiful; after which the country

became more open; the grass had been burnt, and the marks of the mogo or

stone hatchet on the trees, made by the wandering natives of these

deserts in search of food, gave us renewed hopes of soon coming to

water. A rose-hill parrot was seen for the first time for many months,

and we were farther fortunate in killing a fine kangaroo. The country

seemed to improve as we advanced, and at the ninth mile, as we had been

gradually ascending, we were gratified by an open prospect to the

eastward, which showed low gentle hills and valleys thinly studded with

trees. The broom-grass, now dead, gave them a white appearance, and,

contrasted with the acacia in full flower, and the darker foliage of the

trees, gave the whole the most pleasing and varied aspect. To the

north-west round to the north, the country was nearly the same; but from

north to north-east by east, it was more broken into low barren hills;

the tops and sides covered with iron bark, and cypress growing among the

interstices of the granite rocks. We had however seen no water, but

there was something in the aspect of the whole country that flattered

our hopes of finding it in some of the valleys that lay in our course;

nor were we disappointed: after going rather more than four miles

farther, through a very open country, thickly covered with broom-grass

(killed by the frost), we ascended a rocky hill of moderate elevation,

connected with others lying east and west: opposite to us was a low

rocky range, the summits of which were clothed with iron bark and

casuarina trees. We saw from this hill Mount Melville bearing N. 175.,

Mount Cunningham N. 189 1/2., Mount Maude N. 192., a round mount

N. 218., named Mount Riley, a gap in a range N. 283., distance about

thirty miles: descending into the valley we found plenty of water, to our

great relief, as the horses were quite exhausted, and without this

seasonable supply would have been altogether unable to proceed farther.

The grass in the valley, although perished by the winter's frost, was

very

tolerable, and the worn out state of the horses made me determine to

remain here to-morrow, to recruit them a little before we proceeded

farther.

The country we have passed through this day afforded some of the most

beautiful specimens of acacia which we had yet seen, at the same time

that they were quite new in the species. The soil however was still of

the same description, red and sandy, but for the last five or six miles

more firm and compact; many of the plants were recognized as having been

originally seen in the neighbourhood of the Macquarie River, and not

since: this, with the more generally open appearance of the country,

gave us hopes that in a few days we should be fortunate enough to fall

in with that stream, which would free us from any farther apprehensions

of suffering from want of water; for in that event it is my intention to

keep in its immediate vicinity until our arrival at Bathurst. Our course

made good was N. 71. E., distance thirteen miles and a quarter.

August 8.--Made the usual observations to ascertain our situation, the

result of which placed us in lat. 32. 47. 58. S., long. 147. 23. E., and

the variation of the needle 5. 20. E. The valley in which we encamped is

enclosed by forest hills on all sides but the east, affording us plenty

of water from what is, even at this dry season, a perceptible stream.

The grass however was quite killed by the frost, and, although abundant,

did not afford such nourishment to the horses as their condition

required, insomuch that if we fall in with a part of the country that

has been burnt in the course of to-morrow's route, I shall give them a

day's rest.

Kangaroos of a very large size abound in every direction around us: our

dogs killed one weighing seventy or eighty pounds, which proved a great

and refreshing acquisition to us.

To the valley I gave the name of Emmeline's Valley, and the hill from

which we corrected our survey with Mount Melville and Mount Cunningham,

Macnamara's Hill. The day was clear and mild, and in the course of it

some new and fine plants were procured.

August 9.--The morning fine and pleasant. At half past eight we left the

valley, intending still to keep our course north of east, as the most

likely point on which to make the Macquarie River, from which, judging

by the botanical productions of that stream, we cannot be very far.

For three or four miles the country was tolerably open and good, being

clothed with luxuriant broom-grass. The cypress trees of good

dimensions; but no signs of water. For the remainder of our day's

journey, we passed over tracts of low barren ridges covered with brush,

and iron bark trees, and open valleys; the country was of moderate

elevation, but still we were not so fortunate as to find any water,

although every slope was searched. After having travelled fourteen

miles, during the latter part of which it rained hard, I thought it most

advisable to stop, as we had just passed through a thick brush into a

more open country, which would afford the horses something to eat; the

rain, which still continued, relieving us from apprehension of their

suffering much from want of water. As to ourselves, we had taken our now

usual precaution to fill our keg, which gave us a pint each for our

evening consumption, and the same quantity for breakfast the next

morning.

In the course of the day the stirculia heterophylla was very abundant,

and we remarked that the cypresses were those originally known as the

callitris australis, and not of either of the other two species, which

were common in the neighbourhood of the Lachlan. The brushes and scrubs

were the only places that afforded any thing to the researches of the

botanists; the open lands being covered with grass, and the shrubs being

of acacias whose species had been already often seen on this side of the

Blue Mountain range.

August 10.--The morning proved clear and mild, and at nine we again

proceeded; as it was impossible to remain in a place that did not afford

us any water, and not good grass.

The country continued open forest land for about three miles, the

cypress and the bastard box being the prevailing timber; of the former

many were useful trees. We seemed neither ascending nor descending, but

travelling on somewhat of an elevated plain. The broom-grass was very

luxuriant, being four or five feet high; the soil, as before, a light,

red, sandy loam. To this open tract succeeded three miles of barren

brush land, covered with clumps of small cypresses, iron barks, and

acacias; the slightest elevation or ascent was always stony, and in one

or two places large masses of granite rock were observed. We have

hitherto seen no other signs of this being an inhabited country than the

marks usually made by the natives in ascending the trees, and none of

these were very recent. It is probable that they may see us without

discovering themselves, as it is much more likely for us to pass

unobserved the little family of the wandering native, than that our

party, consisting of so many men and horses, not travelling together,

but sometimes separated a mile or two, should escape their sight,

quickened as it is by constant exercise in procuring their daily food.

At the end of the brush we came upon a large chain of ponds, the fall of

water in which being north, induced us to believe that the Macquarie

could not be far distant: we proceeded down them about a mile, when the

situation offering us all we could wish for, we halted for the night, it

being past two o'clock, determining to remain here to-morrow for the

sake of the horses.

The country on the east side of this chain of ponds was again an open

forest as far as we could see in that direction; which however was not

very far, as we were nearly on a level. I rode down the ponds Six or

seven miles, hoping to fall in with their junction with the river. Two

or three miles from our halting-place the ground became very scrubby,

and was much over-run with brush and small pines; there were marks of

flood in the watercourse of the ponds, from eight to ten feet high. I

saw several shags, ducks, herons, cranes, and other birds that frequent

low or watery situations, but the night coming on obliged me to return.

August 11.--Along the banks of these ponds, several transitory

encampments of the natives were found, but none that had been inhabited

within these four or six months; by all of them were found abundance of

the pearl muscle-shell so common on the Lachlan. The soil, as far as we

examined round our tents, east of the ponds, was a good sandy loam. The

timber very open, and if the country had been divested of the numerous

acacia bushes with which the face of it was covered, it would be

impossible to wish for land more lightly timbered: the grass anthistiria

was very luxuriant. The ponds appear to have not been flooded for a very

considerable time, the water in many being of a milky whiteness, and the

dry channels are overrun with reeds and grass. These ponds were called

Coysgaine's Ponds, and by our observations the tent was in

lat. 32. 44. 29. S., long. 147. 46. 30. E., mean variation 7. 18. E.

August 12.--Proceeded on our course, which, as I hoped and expected we

were not far from the Macquarie River, was altered to north-east, for

the purpose of joining it lower down than our former course would have

done; being anxious to know as much of the country in the vicinity of

the river as our time and circumstances would permit. An open forest

country with tolerably good soil continued for nearly five miles, when

we suddenly came upon a large swampy plain surrounded by the acacia

pendula. Water was still remaining on several parts of it, and we had no

doubt from its whole appearance that it would lead immediately to the

river; from the south-west edge of this plain (which was six or seven

miles round), we had a distant prospect of a very lofty mountainous

range to the eastward, named Harvey's Range; the north extreme of which

bore north, and the highest part N. 94. This range was by far the

highest we had seen westward of the Blue Mountains. and its elevation

could be very little if at all inferior. Crossing this plain and

pursuing our north-easterly course, we entered a poor barren country

covered with box trees, and low acacia shrubs; our hope of meeting the

river was however disappointed. We travelled upwards of six miles

through this box scrub, when coming to two or three holes of good water

I thought it advisable to halt, rather than proceed a mile or two

farther, which was the utmost we could have done; and then in all

probability, be obliged to halt at a spot that would not afford us that

necessary article.

The inclination of the loftier trees, particularly the cypress trees,

for these two or three days past, denoted the strength and prevalence of

the south-west and westerly winds: this is more easily discernible from

the tops of low ranges; the western side of the tree being generally

deprived of its branches, and the trunk bent in a remark-able manner to

the north-east. This inclination and prevalence of the winds was not

observed in any particular degree westward of Mount Cunningham, and was

most remarkable in that elevated range of country lying between the

depot on the Lachlan and Bathurst; and which elevated tract continues

with little interruption to the western base of the Blue Mountain range,

on which there is not a single tree that does not denote prevalence of

the westerly wind.

August 13.--Again set forward, intending to keep a north-easterly course

through the day, when if we do not fall in with the river, our future

course will be directed more easterly; as we shall be then full seventy

miles north of Bathurst, and north of the parallel of Port Stephens. The

country through which our course led us to-day was of various

description, the first three miles and a half being indifferent forest

land, open with respect to timber, but much overrun with small acacia

bushes; at the end of this tract was a small stream of water in ponds,

having its course in the lofty range east-south-east of us, and which

was not very distant from us; this stream was named Allan Water, and its

stream was northerly. The next four miles north-east of this burn was

through a barren scrubby country, full of dry water-holes, and thickly

covered with the casuarina filifolia, box trees, and acacia bushes. The

cypress seemed to shun this kind of barren clayey soil, and was more

prevalent and flourishing on the open forest land where the soil was

light and loamy, and covered with luxuriant broom-grass; this was the

case for the last few miles, which consisted of a very good tract of

land. The cypresses here grew into very handsome timber, and indeed were

the only useful wood, as the box tree was usually stunted and crooked.

At the end of twelve miles we found a small spring of water that

supplied some ponds, which also run northerly. The grass being pretty

good, although old, we determined to halt for the evening, as the horses

were not all arrived having had a considerable detour to make in

crossing Allan Water. On the banks of that burn many heaps of the pearl

muscle-shells were found, and marks of flood about eight feet. We have

for several days past seen no signs of any natives being recently in

this part of the country; the marks on the trees, which were the only

marks we saw, being several months old, and never seen except in the

vicinity of water. Marks of the natives' tomahawks were to us certain

signs of approaching water.

August 14.--We had now come from the river Lachlan upwards of an hundred

miles in a north-east direction, without being so fortunate as to fall

in with the Macquarie; we were also near seventy miles north of

Bathurst, and much about the same distance west of it: it was therefore

evident that the Macquarie must have taken at least a north. north-west

course from the place where it was last seen; how much farther north it

had gone, of course we were ignorant: it is however probable, from the

watercourses we have lately passed leading northerly, that the above

point would be nearly the course which it has taken. To travel farther

to the north-east would lead us very far from our proper route to

Bathurst; farther indeed than we had provisions to enable us to travel,

having only from Saturday next enough for fourteen days at a reduced

allowance; and that time I calculated would be barely sufficient to take

us to Bathurst on a direct course, presuming no local obstacles to

arise. These considerations induced me to alter our course to east,

which however would be nearly at right angles with that which we imagined

the river to have taken, and would therefore enable us to reach it

perhaps as soon as on any other course, as we could only infer its

probable situation from the nature of the country over which we

travelled. At half past eight o'clock, we again set forward on the above

course (east): it led us generally through a good open grazing country

for about eight miles, when it became more broken and hilly; these hills

were all covered with grass, their summits and sides rocky, with small

stones: the colour of the soil had been apparently getting darker for

some miles, and was now a light, hazel-coloured, sandy loam. The small

blue eucalyptus, so common in the neighbourhood of Bathurst, again made

its appearance, taking the place of the box tree; iron and stringy barks

of small size were also common on the tops and sides of the hills: two

Sydney or coast plants were also seen. Between the eighth and ninth mile

we ascended a small hill, whence we had a distant view from the south

round by the west to north, taking in that tract of country over which

we had passed. Not a hill or eminence of any kind broke the dead level

surface of the country in those quarters; and the day was so clear, that

had any been within sixty or seventy miles they must have been seen.

From the east to the south was the lofty range before mentioned, and now

distant five or six miles: it was broken and rocky; iron bark trees were

however growing on the very summit. To the north-east and north our view

was not more than ten or eleven miles, being broken into low grassy

hills of pretty much the same elevation with that on which we stood. The

smoke of several natives' fires were seen in the range to the eastward,

and some to the north-west. Proceeding about four miles farther to the

eastward among those hills, we halted in a pretty valley, having a small

run of water in it falling northerly. We had just pitched our tent when

hearing the noise of the stone-hatchet made by a native in climbing a

tree, we stole silently upon him, and surprised him just as he was about

to descend: he did not perceive us until we were immediately under the

tree; his terror and astonishment were extreme. We used every friendly

motion in our power to induce him to descend, but in vain: he kept

calling loudly, as we supposed for some of his companions to come to his

assistance; in the mean time he threw down to us the game he had

procured (a ring-tailed opossum), making signs for us to take it up: in

a short time another native came towards us, when the other descended

from the tree. They trembled excessively, and, if the expression may be

used, were absolutely INTOXICATED with fear, displayed in a thousand

antic motions, convulsive laughing, and singular motions of the head.

They were both youths not exceeding twenty years of age, of good

countenance and figure, but most horribly marked by the skin and flesh

being raised in long stripes all over the back and body; some of those

stripes were full three-quarters of an inch deep, and were so close

together that scarcely any of the original skin was to be seen between

them. The man who had joined us, had three or four small opossums and a

snake, which he laid upon the ground, and offered us. We led them to our

tent, where their surprise at every thing they saw clearly showed that

we were the first white men they had met with; they had however either

heard of or seen tomahawks for upon giving one to one of them, he

clasped it to his breast and demonstrated the greatest pleasure. After

admiring it for some time they discovered the broad arrow, with which

it was marked on both sides, the impression of which exactly resembles

that made by the foot of the emu; it amused them extremely, and they

frequently pointed to it and the emu skins which we had with us. All

this time they were paying great attention to the roasting of their

opossums, and when they were scarcely warm through, they opened them,

and, taking out the fat of the entrails, presented it to us as the

choicest morsel; on our declining to receive it they ate it themselves,

and again covered up the opossums in the hot ashes. When they were

apparently well done, they laid them, the snake, and the things we had

presented them with, on the ground, making signs that they wished to go;

which of course we allowed them to do, together with their little store

of provisions and such things as we were able to spare them. The

collection of words which we had made at the depot on the Lachlan, we

found of no use, as they did not understand a single one. They had

neither of them lost the upper front tooth, though apparently men grown.

August 15.--We were somewhat disappointed in not seeing anything more of

our native acquaintances, as we hoped the treatment and presents they

had received would have induced them to return to us with their

companions, as they had endeavoured to make us understand by signs they

would. At eight we proceeded on an easterly course, when a mile of

gently rising ground brought us to the edge of a fine valley, in which

was a chain of ponds connected by a small stream; alternate hills and

valleys of the best description of pasture land: the soil, a rich,

light, sandy loam, continued until we halted, at the end of eleven

miles, in a spacious, well-watered valley; where to our great surprise

we found distinct marks of cattle tracks: they were old, and made when

the ground was soft from rain, as appeared from the deep impression of

their feet. These cattle must have strayed from Bathurst, from which

place we were now distant in a direct line between eighty and ninety

miles. From several of the hills over which our route led us, we had the

most extensive and beautiful prospects; from thirty to forty miles

round, from the north to south, the country was broken in irregular low

hills thinly studded with small timber, and covered with grass: the

whole landscape within the compass of our view was clear and open,

resembling diversified pleasure grounds irregularly laid out and

planted. The animation of the whole scenery was greatly increased by the

smoke of the natives' fires arising in every quarter, distinctly marking

that we were in a country which afforded them ample means of

subsistence; far different from the low deserts and morasses to the

south-west.

The tops of the hills were generally stony (granite of different degrees

and qualities), but the broom-grass grew strongly and abundantly in the

interstices. We never descended a valley without finding it well

watered, and although the soil and character of the country rendered it

fit for all agricultural purposes, yet I think from its general

clearness from brush, or underwood of any kind, that such tracts must be

peculiarly adapted for sheep-grazing; there being no shelter for native

dogs, which are so destructive and annoying in other more thickly wooded

parts of the country. In the fine valley where we pitched our tents, our

dogs had some excellent runs, and killed two large kangaroos; the

clearness of the country affording us a view of the chace from the

beginning to the end.

Some of the baggage horses, which were a mile or two behind the others,

came up to the tents, with nine natives, who had joined them on the

road: they were entirely unarmed, and there was but one mogo, or

stone hatchet, among them; we had reason to suppose that their women and

children were at no great distance, as they were observed to hide

themselves when the men were first seen. The greater part of them had

either seen or heard of white men, as they were neither alarmed nor

astonished at what they saw. I should think that the loss of the front

upper tooth is not common to every tribe, as several of these men

retained it, although others were without it; the wearing a stick, or

bone, through the cartilage of the nose, appeared common to all of them.

They remained about an hour with us: we gave them the fore-quarter of a

kangaroo, and putting our remaining pork into a bag, we distributed the

iron hoops of the keg in small pieces among them; these were received

with as much pleasure as an European would have felt at being presented

with the like quantity of gold. It was impossible distinctly to make out

anything that they wished to express, by reason of the variety of their

gestures; but their frequent pointing to the south-east (the direction

of Bathurst), induced us to believe that they thought we were going

there, a conjecture which we did all in our power to confirm. Wishing,

if possible, to learn if they knew anything of the river, a fishing hook

was given to one of them, but he did not seem to understand the use of

it until Mr. Evans drew the resemblance of a fish, and made signs that

the hook was to take it, when they immediately understood him, and

pointing to the east made signs that the fish were there; but our

endeavours to learn the distance of the river were wholly fruitless.

They appeared a harmless, inoffensive race of people, extremely cautious

of giving offence, and never touching anything until they had first by

signs obtained permission. Many of the words collected at the depot were

known to them, others were not; but ignorant as we of course were of

each other's meaning, we found it a vain task to endeavour to learn

their names of things. To collect a vocabulary of words in a strange

language, it is in some measure necessary that the party who is to

afford the knowledge should understand for what purpose he is

questioned, which it was impossible to make these simple creatures

comprehend. They left us about an hour before sunset, highly gratified

with their adventure.

August 16.--Quitted the valley (which was named Mary's Valley) on our

eastern course, anxiously hoping that we should reach the river in the

course of the day. We had heard last night and this morning the screams

of the white cockatoo, which we have always looked upon as a certain

sign of approaching water.

The same fine grazing tract of country continued over irregular hills

and valleys for about four miles, when ascending a high hill (named

Mount Johnston), a little upon our left, we had a very extensive view to

the north-east and east. In the former quarter, a beautiful range of

hills

stretching north and south, bounded at a distance of about eight miles

the fine extensive valley before us; under those hills we would fain

have found the Macquarie, fancying that we could distinguish the haze

arising from water. To the northward, two hills skirted the valley at a

distance of six or seven miles, which might be about the medium width of

it from north to south, in which quarter a rocky range, clothed with

pines and iron-bark, prevented us from seeing to any great distance; to

the east and south-east, the same low irregular country appeared, thinly

covered with trees and grass.

Desirous of ascertaining if our conjectures were well founded in respect

to the river, we altered our course, which was east, to north-east,

keeping down the south side of the valley or plain, which we had seen

from Mount Johnston. A finer or more fertile country than that we passed

through for about four miles and a half cannot be imagined: the soil, a

light brown, sandy loam, covered with broom-grass from four to five feet

high. After travelling the above distance, we most unexpectedly came

upon a stream, which from its high grassy banks and rocky bottom we were

obliged to conclude must be the river we were in search of; but so

diminished in magnitude that the motion of the water connecting the long

chains of reedy ponds, was so slow as scarcely to entitle it to the

appellation of a living stream. The whole country from where we quitted

the Lachlan to this spot had borne evident marks of long continued

drought, and in no part was it more apparent than in the present stream

which was so much smaller than it was at Bathurst, even after the great

drought in 1815, that after going up it three or four miles, I began to

entertain great doubts of its being the same, hoping that it might be

one of the channels which must convey the waters from the high ranges of

hills, lying nearly midway between the Lachlan and the Macquarie Rivers.

Observing a fine and extensive flat on the opposite side of the stream,

which having been formerly burnt, was now covered with good grass, we

crossed over at a place not ankle deep, and about six or eight feet wide,

over a bottom of sand and stone, and halted for the evening; intending

also to remain the ensuing day, to refresh the horses, as they had

performed an excellent and continued week's work, and much required it.

On reaching the present stream numerous cattle tracks were observed, and

although not very recent, I do not think they were more than four or six

months old, since the marks of young cattle were among them; it is

probable they were those that have been missing for a length of time

from the government herds at Cox's River, and are now straying wild

through this beautiful country, abounding in every thing that can tempt

them to remain here.

The plants on the banks and in the stream were precisely similar to

those on the Macquarie in the vicinity of Bathurst; but I have observed

that no certain conclusions can be drawn from a similarity between the

botanical productions of two places, a truth which has been exemplified

more than once in the course of this Journal.

August 17.--During the whole day the weather did not permit me to make

the usual observations; it was not however uselessly passed, as the

country was examined several miles to the north-east and east of our

tents, and every report concurred as to the general beauty and goodness

of the tracts passed over. Mr. Evans and myself ascended a high grassy

hill about a mile and a half north of the tent, and the prospect round

was highly pleasing. The general appearance of the country southerly

made me still adhere to the opinion I entertained that the stream along

which we were travelling would prove to derive its source from a very

lofty range in that direction; whilst the Macquarie would be found still

farther to the eastward, in which quarter I must have deceived myself

greatly, if we do not find a stream superior to the present; and my

hopes in that respect are much strengthened when I consider that we are

not above fifty miles in a straight line from the spot where Mr. Evans

left the Macquarie, a strong and powerful stream, and that too in a

season as long and even longer dry than the present one. In these hopes

and expectations I shall continue an easterly course until nearly on the

meridian of Bathurst, when they must either be realized, or the negative

indisputably established, that there are no considerable rivers rising

in the interior of New South Wales. From the hill on which we stood,

bearings were taken to the most remarkable objects, which were but few;

for the country, as far as the eye could reach, was a continued series

of low grassy hills and valleys; the whole thinly covered with wood, and

in many places entirely bare of it. The hills to the southward and

south-west on the west side of the stream, and immediately bordering on

it, were rocky and irregular; a few cypresses were growing on their

sides and summits. We named the hill on which we stood Mount Elizabeth,

and the extensive flats or plains north of it, and on the east side of

the stream, McArthur's Plains.

The tracks of cattle were observed in various places on these plains,

some very recent, perhaps not a month old. A fish was also caught, of

the species common both to the Lachlan and the Macquarie. The soil of

the country round, is far as we had time to examine it, was a rich,

light, sandy loam, most abundantly covered with long broom-grass: the

rocks and stones on the hills were granite of various qualities. Nothing

was found new to the botanists; in truth, this is not a country adapted

to their pursuits.

August 18.--In pursuance of the intention formed yesterday of still

continuing an easterly course, we again set forward at half past eight

o'clock.

The general description of country was nearly the same as that which we

passed over on preceding days; several pieces of limestone were found,

which proved of good quality. On going between three and four miles,

ascending a range of hills which lay directly across our course, we had

a prospect of a fine and spacious valley, bounded to the east by low

grassy hills; there was every appearance of a watercourse being in it,

but it was distant five or six miles, and our access to it was rendered

difficult by lofty rocky hills forming deep and irregular glens, so

narrow that I feared we should not be able to follow their windings, the

rocks rising in such vast perpendicular shapes as seemingly to debar

our passage. After some little hesitation, we found a place down which

the horses might descend in safety. This being accomplished, we

traversed the bottom of the glen along all its windings for nearly three

miles and a half: a fine stream of pure water was running through it.

Here, doubtful of being able before dark to gain the valley we were in

search of we halted for the night. It is impossible to imagine a more

beautifully romantic glen than that in which we lay. There was just

level space on either side of the stream for the horses to travel along,

the rocks rising almost perpendicularly from it to a towering height,

covered with flowering acacia of various species, whose bright yellow

flowers were contrasted and mingled with the more sombre foliage of the

blue gum and cypress trees: several new plants were also found, of

beautiful descriptions.

The stream in the glen running north-easterly encouraged us to hope that

we should ultimately be rewarded by finding a considerable stream in the

valley, which was the cause of our deviation from our more direct course

to Bathurst. The glen which was to afford us access to it, we named

Glenfinlass: it might, perhaps, be properly termed the glen of many

windings, as it was formed of several detached lofty hills; between each

of which deep ravines were formed, communicating in times of rain their

waters to this main one.

August 19.--Full of the hopes entertained yesterday, at half past eight

o'clock we pursued our course down Glenfinlass. A mile and a half

brought us into the valley which we had seen on our first descending

into the glen: imagination cannot fancy anything more beautifully

picturesque than the scene which burst upon us. The breadth of the

valley to the base of the opposite gently rising hills was, between

three and four miles, studded with fine trees, upon a soil which for

richness can nowhere he excelled; its extent north and south we could

not see: to the west it was bounded by the lofty rocky ranges by which

we had entered it; this was covered to the summit with cypresses and

acacia in full bloom: a few trees of the sterculia heterophylla, with

their bright green foliage, gave additional beauty to the scene. In the

centre of this charming valley ran a strong and beautiful stream, its

bright transparent waters dashing over a gravelly bottom, intermingled

with large stones, forming at short intervals considerable pools, in

which the rays of the sun were reflected With a brilliancy equal to that

of the most polished mirror. I should have been well contented to have

found this to be the Macquarie River, and at first conceived it to be

so. Under this impression, I intended stopping upon its banks for the

remainder of the day, and then proceeding up the stream southerly.

Whilst we were waiting for the horses to come up we crossed the stream,

and wishing to see as much of the country on its banks northerly, as

possible, I proceeded down the stream, and had scarcely rode a mile when

I was no less astonished than delighted to find that it joined a very

fine river, coming from the east-south-east from among the chain of low

grassy hills, bounding the east side of the valley in which we were.

This then was certainly the long sought Macquarie, the sight of which

amply repaid us for all our former disappointments. Different in every

respect from the Lachlan, it here formed a river equal to the Hawkesbury

at Windsor, and in many parts as wide as the Nepean at Emu Plains. These

noble streams were connected by rapids running over a rocky and pebbly

bottom, but not fordable, much resembling the reaches and falls at the

crossing place at Emuford, only deeper: the water was bright, and

transparent, and we were fortunate enough to see it at a period when it

was neither swelled beyond its proper dimensions by mountain floods, nor

contracted by summer droughts. From its being at least four times larger

than it is at Bathurst, even in a favourable season, it must have

received great accessions of water from the mountains north-easterly;

for from the course it has run from Bathurst, and the number of streams

we have crossed all running to form it from the south and south-west, I

do not think it can receive many more from that quarter between us and

Bathurst, at least of sufficient strength to have formed the

present river.

Reduced as our provisions were, we could not resist the temptation of

halting in this beautiful country for a couple of days, to allow us time

to ascertain its precise situation, and to ride down the banks of the

river northerly as far as we could go and return in one day. The banks

of the river in our neighbourhood were low and grassy, with a margin of

gravel and pebble stones; there were marks of flood to the height of

about twelve feet, when the river would still be confined within its

secondary banks, and not overflow the rich lands that border it. Its

proper width in times of flood would be from six to eight hundred feet,

its present and usual width is about two hundred feet. The blue gum

trees in the neighbourhood were extremely fine, whilst that species of

eucalyptus, which is vulgarly called the apple tree, and which we had

not seen since we quitted the eastern coast, again made its appearance

on the flats, and of large size; as was the casuarina filifolia, growing

here and there on its immediate banks.

The day throughout was as fine as could be imagined, and it was spent

with a more cheerful feeling than we had experienced since we quitted

the depot on the Lachlan. The river running through the valley was named

Bell's River, in compliment to Brevet Major Bell, of the 48th Regiment;

the valley Wellington Valley; and the stream on which we halted on

Sunday, Molle's Rivulet.

August 20.--The day proved as favourable as could be wished, and the

observations placed our situation in lat. 32. 32. 45. S., and our

compared long. 148. 51. 30. E., the variation of the needle being

8. 38. 38. E. A valuable discovery was made in the course of the day by

the men who were out with the dogs, the hills bounding the east side of

Wellington Vale being found of the purest limestone, of precisely

similar quality with that found at Limestone Creek. We were never due

north of that place, and it is more than probable that the same stratum

extends on the same meridian through the country.

August 21--At eight o'clock, accompanied by Mr. Evans and

Mr. Cunningham, set out on our intended excursion down the Macquarie

River. Crossing Bell's River in the valley, we came in a mile to where

the steep rocky hills forming the west side of the vale advance their

perpendicular cliffs directly over the river. These hills we soon

rounded, and entered the vale north of them: I shall not in this place

attempt to describe the rich and beautiful country that opened to our

view in every direction. Alternate fine grazing hills, fertile flats and

valleys, formed its general outline; whilst the river, an object to us

of peculiar interest, was sometimes contracted to a width of from sixty

to eighty feet between rocky cliffs of vast perpendicular height, and

again expanded into noble and magnificent reaches of the width of at

least two hundred feet, washing some of the richest tracts of land that

can be found in any country; the banks were in those reaches low and

shelving, and covered with pebbles, whilst even at the highest floods

secondary banks restrained the river from doing the smallest damage:

these secondary banks might be from six to eight hundred feet in width,

and I think the highest marks of flood did not exceed twenty feet

perpendicular. The rapids were usually formed by small stony islands,

which. dividing the stream rendered it shoaler in those places than in

others, but they never extended above one hundred yards, and were none

of them fordable. Limestone of the best quality and of various species

abounded; and it appeared to me to be as common as the other stone

forming the hills, which was a fine and hard granite. We passed through

this charming country for upwards of twelve miles, the course of the

river during that time being nearly north, and from appearances we

thought it must continue in that direction for a considerable distance

farther. A perpendicular limestone rock overhanging the river terminated

our excursion; adjoining to this rock (which was called Hove's Rock,

from its being covered with a beautiful new species of hovia), a

stratum of fine blue-slate was found. A little lower down, the bank on

the east side was formed of perpendicular red earth cliffs at least

sixty feet high, extending along the reach nearly three quarters of a

mile; this bank was named Red Bank: a fine grassy hill thinly covered

with wood rose eastward of it.

The timber was unusually fine, consisting chiefly of very large and

straight blue guns; beautiful large casuarina trees were occasionally

growing at the very edge of the water. The tops and sides of the rocky

precipices on the west side of Wellington Vale were clothed with cypress

trees, which had all the appearance of the pinus silvestris, that adorns

the mountains and glens of Scotland. It was nearly five o'clock before

we returned to our tent, highly gratified with our day's excursion.

Nothing can afford a stronger contrast than the two rivers, Lachlan and

Macquarie; different in their habit, their appearance, and the sources

from which they derive their waters, but above all differing in the

country bordering on them; the one constantly receiving great accession

of water from four streams, and as liberally rendering fertile a great

extent of country; whilst the other, from its source to its termination,

is constantly diffusing and extenuating the waters it originally

receives over low and barren deserts, creating only wet flats and

uninhabitable morasses, and during its protracted and sinuous course is

never indebted to a single tributary stream. The contrast indeed

presents a most remarkable phenomenon in the natural history of the

country, and will furnish matter in other parts of this Journal, for

such conclusions as my observations have enabled me to form.

August 22--Among the other agreeable consequences that have resulted

from discovering the river in this second Vale of Tempe, may be

enumerated, as not the least, the abundance of fish and emus with which,

we have been supplied; swans, and ducks, were also within our reach, but

we had no shot. Very large muscles were found growing among the reeds

along some of the reaches; many exceeded six inches in length, and

three and a half in breadth. Traces of cattle were found in various

places as low as Hove's Rock, which are now doubtless straying through

the country.

Our horses have recruited themselves exceedingly within the last ten

days, and being lightly laden, I have great hopes of being enabled to

reach Bathurst before our provisions are altogether expended; we have

now left but four pounds and a half of flour, and the same quantity of

pork per man; our chief dependence must be on the success of our dogs

for any additional supplies, and in such a country as the present, we

have no fear of being in want of food.

We had scarcely laden our horses and began to proceed up the river, when

the rain recommenced, and continuing without intermission, obliged us to

halt after we had gone about six miles; which we did upon a reach of the

river, that for magnitude and extent equals if not surpasses any in the

Hawkesbury, and exceeds that much admired one on the Nepean River,

winding round Emu Plains. The country on both sides was of the greatest

possible fertility, and beautifully diversified by hills and open

valleys. Timber is good, and in two places where the hills on this side

nearly closed on the river, immense quantities of fine limestone were

again found, the rocks being entirely composed of it. The rapids were

few and unimportant, and occasioned as usual by the river dividing into

two channels forming small islets. They did not appear to me to impede

in any manner the navigation of the river; the open reaches had

apparently depth to float the largest vessels, and there was certainly

breadth sufficient for that purpose. Nothing in fact can be imagined

grander or more beautiful than we have hitherto found the river, and

that too so near Bathurst that no reasonable expectation could have been

formed of finding it such as we did. Many good specimens of agate

forming on granite were found on the hills, chiefly where the limestone

appeared in the largest and most continued stratum. We indulged

ourselves in the probable speculation, that where limestone was found in

such abundance as in this country, quarries of marble would also be

discovered not far beneath the surface, as is usual in other countries

most abounding in this useful stone. Fish and emus were procured in

great quantities in the course of the afternoon.

August 23--The last allowance of our provisions was now distributed, and

at half past eight o'clock we proceeded up the river, which this day

might be said to come through a mountainous country. Rocky points of

hills frequently terminated on the river and occasionally opened into

fine valleys and flats: in every valley a watercourse conveyed the

waters from the back country to the river. I think the north bank was

most frequently the lower: several small runs of water also fell in on

that side. The hills, uniformly stony and rocky as they were, were

covered with good grass to their summits. The scenery on the river was

beautifully picturesque, and more magnificent reaches cannot be found in

any river; these were interrupted in their uniform course by rapids,

which having a much greater fall than any we had seen lower down, would

materially impede the navigation of the river by boats farther than this

station, up to which point I conceive it navigable. No falls had yet

been seen that boats could not easily pass over; but in seasons of

greater drought than the present, some difficulty might be experienced.

The travelling was excessively bad along the sides and points of the

hills; and as we had every reason to believe the country was much lower

back from the river, I determined to quit its immediate banks, and

endeavour to make a more direct course than we found it possible to do

in following its windings, which, even if it were practicable, our

provisions will not permit.

August 24.--A very thick fog arising from the river prevented us from

setting forward until nearly ten o'clock, till when we could not see

fifty yards in any direction. Taking the earliest opportunity to quit

the river, we passed through a mountainous tract of country extremely

irregular and stony, but full of springs of water, and good grass. We

found it impossible to accomplish more than eight or nine miles, the

tops of the hills standing quite detached and unconnected into regular

ranges. We seemed ascending the ranges, which in some measure separate

the country farther westward from the river; as it was much lower in a

direction from south-south-west to north-west, and appeared to be fine

open grazing land. At four o'clock, we halted in a small valley for the

evening. Our course made good on a variety of bearings was 8. 6. W.,

seven miles.

August 25.--We again set forward, hoping soon to clear these lofty

hills, among which we seemed to be entangled: four or five miles, on

various courses, through a very rugged, but grassy country, freed us

from the dividing range, as we found by the streams all running

westerly, and apparently joining the river in Wellington Vale. Just

before we descended what we considered the principal range, we saw Mount

Lachlan bearing south from this point; and we were enabled for the

remainder of the day to make a direct course towards Bathurst, through a

good open grazing country of gentle hills and dales, abounding in

beautiful rivulets, having their rise in the mountains east of us, which

bending round to the west and north-west, and watering the finest

districts in their course, contribute their waters to the Macquarie.

The country now passed over was generally good, and although the hills

were stony, yet the soil upon them was equal to the flats or valleys,

and covered with grass. We saw no good timber, it consisting chiefly of

small box trees, thinly scattered over the sides and tops of the hills.

There was plenty of kangaroos and our valuable dogs killed two fine

ones.

Coarse gravel and small slate were the most common stones, but the

bottoms of the rivulets were composed of a species of black jade. Quartz

was very frequent.

Few traces of natives have been observed, either on the river, or since

we quitted it. The population of this country must be extremely small:

as the natives derive their chief support from opossums, squirrels, and

rats, which are known to frequent barren scrubs and hollow trees, such

neighbourhoods are unquestionably frequented by them in preference to

the open country and river banks. It must be a mere accident that

enables the natives to kill either a kangaroo or emu: as to fish, they

certainly are ignorant of the manner of taking them by hook and line.

August 26.--At eight o'clock we proceeded on our course towards

Bathurst. The country throughout the day's journey was extremely hilly,

with steep descents into fine valleys, in every one of which was a

running stream. It appeared to me, that we were pursuing a course which,

intersecting the streams near their sources, rendered our road much more

irregular and difficult than it would have been either a few miles

farther westward, or even on the immediate banks of the river, the line

of which we several times saw during the day. The country north-east of

the river was very elevated and broken. The tops and sides of even the

most mountainous parts were covered with grass, and thinly clothed with

wood.

Many of the valleys were composed of extremely rich soil: the hills were

also generally good land and covered with grass; though there were

occasionally barren stony summits, and ridges producing nothing but iron

and stringy bark trees of diminutive growth. These tracts were however

too inconsiderable in extent, to be considered other than what ought

naturally to be expected in such an irregular tract as that which we

travelled over.

Had not the appearance of the country round the Macquarie, where we

first reached it, fully accounted for its magnitude, the course we have

pursued since would satisfactorily have explained the cause; it is in

point of fact a country of running waters: on every hill we found a

spring, and in every valley a rivulet, either flowing directly

north-east to the river, or taking a course westerly to join the river

in Wellington Vale. Of the waters that may fall into it from the

north-east we were of course ignorant, but the appearances of the

country indicated that they were at least as numerous as from the

south-west.

After proceeding a few miles, we halted for the night in an extensive

valley, watered by a rivulet running through it directly to the river,

from which I think we were distant six or seven miles.

August 27.--Nothing could be more delightful than the climate and the

temperature of the season.

At eight o'clock we took our road through a very rugged and broken

country. The glens were enclosed on either side by almost perpendicular

rocks, mostly slate of fine quality, mixed with coarse granite. In these

glens or defiles were fine running streams. The declivity and steepness

of the road delayed our progress, in seeking for better paths for the

horses; and after riding a few miles we came to the edge of a very steep

glen or valley, at the point of junction of two large streams, the

largest coming from the south-west, the other from the north-west. Both

united formed a very powerful stream, rushing with great impetuosity

over a rocky bottom, with frequent falls or rapids. The hills being on

both sides too steep even for the men to descend in safety, we were

obliged to pursue the ridge of them up the north-west river, until we

found a place where we could descend and cross, which we did about five

o'clock in the afternoon with considerable difficulty. So steep indeed

was the side on which we now were, that we could not find a level space

sufficient to pitch our tent upon. The rocks consisted chiefly of slate

and coarse granite intermixed. There appeared in each river to be more

water than usual; and marks of flood were visible at a height exceeding

eighteen feet.

Finding that we were entangled among the streams of the Macquarie, I

determined on the morrow to proceed by the mountains dividing the

north-west and south-west rivers; and if they should lead me

considerably westward before their junction, to cross the south-west

river, which, from its apparent direction and vicinity to Bathurst, I

considered to be the only stream of consequence which we should find

between our present station and that place.

Rugged and uneven as the country generally was during this day's

journey, there was considerable intermixture of the good with the

barren; many portions consisting of excellent pasture land, and even the

rocky hills were divested of the appearance of being so barren as they

actually are, by being covered with shrubs and grass intermingled among

the box and small gum trees, that find support between the interstices

of the stones.

August 28.--At eight o'clock we proceeded on our journey, and pursuing

the ridge which separated the two streams, we found that their general

direction was from the southward, opening, as we advanced, into fine

valleys, rounding gentle rising hills, thinly wooded and covered with

grass. The ridge itself was chiefly of slate-rock, intermixed with

masses of coarse siliceous granite. We followed the ridge for about six

miles, when we descended into the valley through which the south-west

rivulet ran, and after travelling about four miles farther, we crossed

it when it was running a strong stream. Waiting for the horses at this

spot, I took the opportunity of ascending a very lofty conical hill,

forming part of the range bounding the north-east side of the valley.

From this hill our hopes and expectations were gratified by a view of

Bathurst Plains, which I estimated to be distant about twenty-two

miles, bearing on the course we were pursuing. A Journal is but ill

calculated to be the record of the various hopes and fears, which

doubtless in some degree pervaded every mind upon this intelligence:

these feelings, whatever they might be, were soon to be realized, and

in an absence from our friends and connections of nineteen weeks how

much might have occurred in which we were all deeply interested!

After travelling about three miles farther, we stopped for the evening,

under expectations that we might possibly reach Bathurst on the morrow.

From the hill whence I saw Bathurst the view in every direction (except

north-east, where it was bounded by a range of equal height between me

and the river) was very extensive; the country to the southward and

south-west was broken into low grassy hills with four intervening

valleys. The rivulets derive their main supply from those hills, and

from the range upon which we had travelled the greater part of the day:

almost every hollow contained a running stream, having its source in

springs near the summit of the hills.

Stringy bark trees were seen most generally on barren ridges, the larger

sized blue gums in the valleys. In the evening the weather was unsettled

with flying showers.

August 29.--At eight o'clock we proceeded towards Bathurst, hoping to

reach it by the evening; this we effected between eight and nine

o'clock, passing over a very hilly country with numerous running

streams, joining the river near Pine Hill, and afterwards keeping

along its banks.

The hospitable reception which we met with from Mr. Cox went far to

banish all present care from our minds: relieved, as they were, by the

knowledge that our friends were well, we almost forgot in the hilarity

of the moment, that nineteen harassing weeks had elapsed since we last

quitted it.

Although the winter at Bathurst, we learnt, had been cold and severe,

there had not been much rain; little or none had fallen in the depot on

the Lachlan, although the people there had observed some very high

floods in the river; one particularly that would nearly correspond with

the time when an unexpected fresh surprised us on our return down the

Lachlan on the 11th of July.

JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA