return to our halting-place of the 6th, the horses having been now
forty-eight hours without water. We had scarcely proceeded a mile when
it began to rain hard, and continued to do so without intermission until
we stopped at the place where water had been previously found: it was by
this time two o'clock, the horses failed, and the people were in little
better condition, not having tasted any thing since the evening before.
All our clothes were wet through, a circumstance which added greatly to
the unpleasantness of our situation.
The true nature of the soil was fully developed by this day's rain.
Being in dry weather a loose light sand without any apparent
consistency, it was now discovered to have a small portion of loam mixed
with it, which, without having the tenacity of clay, is sufficient to
render it slimy and boggy: I am quite satisfied that two days' rain will
at any time render this country impassable. The mortification and
distress of mind I felt at being obliged to take a retrograde direction
was heightened by seeing the horses struggling under loads far beyond
their present powers, their labour rendered still more trying by the
miserable country they were obliged to pass through.
June 10.--Light rain during the night, the morning fair and pleasant:
upon mature deliberation it was resolved to remain here until the 13th,
for the purpose of refreshing the horses. I also determined to send a
detachment on before us, to endeavour to find an eligible station for us
to stop at, that we might proceed with more certainty.
Mr. Cunningham named those thick brushes of eucalyptus that spread in
every direction around us EUCALYPTUS DUMOSA, or the dwarf gum, as they
never exceed twenty feet in height, and are generally from twelve to
fifteen, spreading out into a bushy circle from their roots in such a
manner that it is impossible to see farther than from one bush to the
other; and these are very often united by a species of vine (cassytha),
and the intermediate space covered with prickly wire-grass, rendering a
passage through them equally painful and tedious
The low ranges of hills which we quitted yesterday morning we named
Disappointment Hills, from our not being able to penetrate beyond them
to the north-west or west, and also from our not finding any water on
them; our hopes being thus disappointed of penetrating into the interior
in the direction that I intended when we quitted Mount Brogden.
June 11.--A party set forward to the northward to explore our
to-morrow's route, and to endeavour to find water at some eligible
station.
They returned about four o'clock, having proceeded eight or ten miles.
Small holes of water were found in almost every gully. They saw several
traces of the natives, but none recent: the dogs killed several
kangaroo-rats, and some new species of plants were discovered.
June 12.--Fine and clear. At eight o'clock set forward on our journey
along the west side of Peel's range: we proceeded to the north,
inclining westerly for about ten miles; the travelling for the horses
very bad, the ground being extremely soft, the description of the
country the same. The trees resembled bushes more than timber, being
chiefly small cypresses, which is the prevailing wood. The grass where
we stopped was very bad, but the quantity and quality of the water
compensated for it. No recent marks of the natives having visited this
part of the range.
June 13.--Fine mild pleasant weather. Proceeded along the foot of Peel's
range for about ten miles; we then inclined north-easterly, the range
taking that direction, and after going about four miles farther we
stopped for the evening: the country was wretchedly barren and scrubby,
and to the north-west and west a continued eucalyptus dumosa scrub,
extending as far as the eye could reach from the occasional small hills
which we passed in our route.
Water was found about two miles off in the range, affording a bare
sufficiency for ourselves and horses.
June 14.--Fine clear weather. Proceeded on our journey northwards: the
first four or five miles was over a rocky broken country, consisting of
low hills, rising westerly of Peel's range. After going about six miles
and a half the country became more open and less rocky; as the grass was
here better than at our last night's halting-place, and the water
convenient and tolerable, we resolved upon stopping, particularly as I
intended resting the horses to-morrow; and I was fearful if I proceeded
farther I might meet with neither, and thus be obliged to continue
travelling to-morrow; an exertion which the horses were not in a
condition to make. Nothing can be more irksome than the tedious days'
journeys we are obliged to make through a country in which there is not
the smallest variety, each day's occurrences and scenes being but a
recapitulation of the former: our patience would frequently be
exhausted, were we not daily reanimating ourselves with the hopes that
the morrow will bring us to a better country, and render a journey, the
labour of which has hitherto been ill repaid, of some service to the
colony, and of some satisfaction to the expectations which had been
formed of its result.
June 15.--Observed in lat. 33. 49. 09. S., and long. 145. 54. E.
Mr. Cunningham went upon Peel's range in search of plants, and found a
few
new ones; the country to the north appeared hilly and broken, but no
scrubs, such as obstructed our progress westward, were seen. Goulburn's
range had a remarkable appearance, being broken into peaks and
singularly shaped hills. A solitary native was seen by one of our party,
but he ran off with great precipitation on friendly signs being made to
him to approach.
June 16.--It blew extremely hard during the night, and rained
incessantly, as it still continues to do, with scarcely any
intermission. This morning we had the misfortune to find one horse dead,
the same that fell under his load on the 3d instant, and, as he had
carried little or nothing since, he appeared to be recovering his
strength. Independently of the continuance of heavy rain, which would
certainly have prevented me from attempting to set forward, the ground
has become so hollow and soft from the rain which fell during the night,
that it was the universal opinion that the horses could not travel under
their loads. It cleared up towards night, with the exception of
occasional heavy showers.
June 17.--Towards morning the weather became fine, with fresh winds from
the north-east; at eight o'clock set forward on our journey, the ground
extremely wet and soft.
We could not proceed above ten miles when we stopped, one of the horses
being completely disabled from going any farther. The line of country we
passed over was rocky, barren, and miserable, the level grounds being a
perfect bog; to the westward, low irregular rocky ranges, with blasted
and decayed cypresses on their summits, were the only objects which
presented themselves to our view. There was neither grass nor water
where we stopped; of course, nothing but the absolute necessity that
existed to spare the horses could induce us to halt. People were sent to
search the range for water, but all their endeavours proved fruitless,
after wandering in every probable direction until sunset. The coldness
of the air would have prevented us from feeling much inconvenience from
this privation, had it been in our power to have satisfied our hunger
but salt pork, would have proved an aggravating meal without water; we
therefore preferred an absolute fast to the certainty of increasing our
thirst.
About sunset the wind increased to a perfect storm, accompanied by heavy
showers, which prevented the horses from suffering so severely as they
otherwise would.
June 18.--The weather was very tempestuous during the night: towards
morning the wind somewhat abated, and left light drizzling showers. Our
search after water was renewed, and so far succeeded as to procure us
about a pint of rain-water each, which afforded us great relief. It did
not appear that the horses had been equally successful.
Upon consultation, in our present critical situation it was resolved
that Mr. Evans should proceed forward to the north-north-west until he
found grass and water, and as it was evident to all that the horses were
utterly incapable of proceeding with their present loads to any
distance, I thought it expedient to leave half our provisions behind,
and proceed to the place selected by Mr Evans, and then to send back for
the remainder: in fact, there remained no alternative; reduced as the
horses were in their strength, it would have been in the highest degree
imprudent to have dared the almost certainty of killing them by
proceeding with their usual loads.
After going about three miles we came upon a small valley which afforded
both good grass and water; the latter was rain-water collected in holes
at the base of the range, which was composed of a hard granite rock. In
this valley we found several holes dug by the natives, for the purpose
of receiving water; in some a few quarts of muddy water were found,
others were quite dry. It rained almost incessantly during the whole of
this day, rendering our situation extremely unpleasant.
As if to add to our misfortunes, it was now first discovered that
three of the casks, which had all along been taken for flour casks, were
filled with pork; and upon a minute investigation it came out, that
when, on the 1st of May, the large boat had been reported to have filled
from the falling of the river without any other accident, that then, in
fact, three of the upper tier of casks had been washed out of her. It
was impossible, at this distance of time, to exactly ascertain how such
a serious loss could have happened and not have been discovered before,
for the boatmen persisted in declaring that their cargo was then all
safe; but, as so large a quantity could not possibly have been consumed
by the party clandestinely without certain discovery, it appeared quite
clear that the loss either happened on that day or on the 4th, when the
large boat sunk from having been stove. In counting our casks up to this
period, three, in every respect the same as the flour casks, with
similar marks, had been reckoned in their lieu by us all, whilst the
deficiency being then apparently in the pork was not suspected by any.
In this distressing dilemma nothing remained for us but to reduce our
ration of flour in such a proportion as would leave us twelve weeks of
that article, and as we had still plenty of pork, to issue an extra
pound of it weekly. Since leaving the depot we had been so extremely
guarded in the issue of provisions, to prevent the possibility of our
suffering from any longer protraction of our journey than was expected,
that never more than six pounds of flour had been issued to each person
weekly, which now, from this accident coming to light, was reduced to
four pounds: it was, in truth, extremely fortunate that we had thus kept
within the calculated ration, as otherwise our situation would have been
highly alarming.
Some of our party began even now to anticipate the resources of famine,
for a large native dog being killed, it was pronounced, like lord
Peter's loaf, in the Tale of a Tub, to be true, good, natural mutton as
any in Leadenhall-market, and eaten accordingly: for myself, I was not
yet brought to the conversion of Martin and Jack.
The natives had been in this valley very recently, and I conjectured
that they were then not far from us. In the afternoon, the rain still
continuing, I sent back the strongest of the horses to bring up the
provisions left behind. Towards eight o'clock the wind increased to a
storm, so that the rain was forced through our tent in every part, and
we were fairly washed out: this abated about ten o'clock, and the
weather partially cleared up. Upon the whole this was the most
uncomfortable day and night we had experienced since we quitted the
depot.
June 19.--Fresh winds from the north-west, with thick small rain. The
valley was now a complete bog, the hills closing on each side of it, and
its widest part not exceeding two hundred yards: the soil imbibes all
the water almost as fast as it falls. There was one comfort in all this
bad weather; we had plenty of water, and the horses tolerable grass.
Taking advantage of a fair interval, I explored to the north-north-west
about a mile, whence I had a tolerable view of the country between the
showers: it was broken into very remarkable hills between the north-west
by north and north-east; to the west it was more level, and having been
burnt, the young grass gave it a more cheering aspect than any we had
seen for some time. Bearings were taken to several remarkable hills for
the purpose of connecting the survey.
Two swans passed over the valley to the north-west, which we considered
as a sign that water lay in that direction.
June 20.--The weather broke up during the night, and the morning was
fair and pleasant. However desirable it was that the horses should
remain another day in this valley to recruit, yet, in the present
unsettled state of the season, I was unwilling to lose an hour more than
was absolutely necessary. We here left all the spare horse-shoes, broken
axes, etc. in order to lighten the burden of the horses. This little
valley received the name of Peach Valley, from our having here planted
the last of our fruit-stones.
At eight we proceeded to the north-north-west, our course taking us over
a broken barren country; the hills composed of rocks and small stones,
the valleys and flats of sand. To the westward of our route the country
was covered with scrubs of the eucalyptus dumosa; these scrubs we
avoided, by keeping close along the base of Peel's range, where the
country had been lately burnt. It is somewhat singular that those scrubs
and brushes seldom if ever extend to the immediate base of the hills:
the washings from them rendered the soil somewhat better for two or
three hundred yards. As to water, we did not see the least signs of any
during the whole day. After proceeding between nine and ten miles, we
stopped for the evening on some burnt grass, which existed in sufficient
quantity; but, although we procured a few gallons of water for
ourselves, not all our researches could find a sufficiency for the
horses.
The dogs killed a pretty large emu, which was a most luxurious addition
to our salt pork, of which alone we were all well satiated. I ascended
the range behind the tent, and I never saw a more broken country, or one
more barren. It appeared more open to the north-north-west, to which
point our course will be directed to-morrow.
June 21.--Fine mild weather: at eight o'clock set forward on our
journey. The farther we proceed north-westerly, the more convinced I am
that, for all the practical purposes of civilized man, the interior of
this country westward of a certain meridian is uninhabitable, deprived
as it is of wood, water, and grass. With respect to water, it is quite
impossible that any can be retained on such a soil as the country is
composed of, and no watercourses, for the same reason, can be formed;
for, like a sponge, it absorbs all the rain that falls, which, judging
from every appearance, cannot be much. The wandering native with his
little family may find a precarious subsistence in the ruts with which
the country abounds; but even he, with all the local knowledge which
such a life must give him, is obliged to dig with immense labour little
wells at the bottom of the hills to procure and preserve a necessary of
life which is evidently not to be obtained by any other method.
We proceeded through a broken irregular country for nearly six miles,
when the evident weakness of the horses made it highly imprudent to
attempt to proceed farther. We therefore halted under a high rocky hill,
which was named Barrow's Hill; and sent round in all directions to
look for water. The goodness of Providence came to our succour when we
least expected it; an ample sufficiency for the people being found near
the top of the hill in the hollow of a rock.
I ascended Barrow's Hill, and from its summit had a very extensive
prospect from the west north-west round to east-north-east. To the north
the country appeared perfectly level, though the horizon was skirted
with distant hammocks, which could be but faintly distinguished.
To the north-east were some native's fires; and a lofty detached
mountain was named Mount Flinders: a high range to the westward was
named Macquarie's Range, in honour of his excellency the Governor.
The men returned late after an unsuccessful search for water, having
gone entirely round Mount Flinders. There was now nothing to be done but
to drive the horses to the base of the hill under which we were
encamped, and share with them the water whence we derived our own
supply: it was obliged to be handed from man to man in the cooking
kettle, out of which the poor animals drank; and I was happy to find
that a sufficiency would still remain to supply us until Monday morning,
when we intended again to set forward.
June 22.--The morning mild, but a thick drizzling rain continued until
near noon, when it cleared up. The variation of the compass was 7. 45. E.
About sunset Mr. Cunningham returned from a botanical excursion to
Mount Flinders; he had found many new plants on the west side of the
mount, but nothing was seen from its summit which had not been
previously observed from Barrow's Hill: Frazer, our botanical soldier,
also returned from Mount Bowen, in Goulburn's Range; but was not
fortunate enough to find any thing new in vegetation, as it had been
lately burnt: it was, however, remarkable that the paneratium Macquarie
should be found growing in great abundance at the very top; this plant
never being found except near moist Places, and in the vicinity of
water. At the foot of Mount Bowen, Frazer fell in with a native camp,
which had not been quitted more than a day or two: among the reliques
were three or four pearl muscles, such as we had observed on the river;
and it is probable that these may have been the property of natives who
live more immediately in that vicinity. These shells are used as knives,
being ground very sharp against the rocks, and certainly for a scraper
they may answer very well.
It may here be remarked, that the composition of the lofty detached
hills, designated as mounts, is uniformly different from the rock
composing the bases and summits of the more connected and elevated
tracts, and what may more properly be termed ranges; the latter being of
hard dark coloured granite, whilst the former rather resembles hard
sandstone, studded with pebbles and quartz. The west side of Mount
Flinders was covered with quartz, whilst the larger pieces of rock, on
being broken, appeared to be an indurated sandstone.
June 23.--The watering our horses took us up so much time, that it was
ten o'clock before we set forward to the northward. After proceeding
about four miles, the country became much more open, extending east and
west over a flat level plain, the botany of which, in every respect,
resembled Field's Plains; except that a new species of eucalyptus took
place of the acacia pendula. A flock of large kangaroos was seen for the
first time since we quitted the Lachlan; also many emus and bustards.
Our dogs killed three kangaroos and two emus. The soil of these plains
was a stiff tenacious clay, and had every appearance of being frequently
under water: as we were now in the parallel of the spot where the river
divided into branches, the altered appearance of the country induced us
to hope that we should shortly fall in with some permanent water, and be
relieved from the constant anxiety attendant on the precarious supply to
which we had lately been enured.
After going eight miles and a quarter, we suddenly came upon the banks
of the river; I call it the river, for it could certainly be no other
than the Lachlan, which we had quitted nearly five weeks before. Our
astonishment was extreme, since it was an incident little expected by
any one. It was here extremely diminished in size, but was still nearly
equal in magnitude to the south-west branch which we last quitted. The
banks were about twelve or fourteen feet above the water, and it was
running with a tolerably brisk stream to the westward. The banks were so
thickly covered with large eucalypti, that we did not perceive it until
we were within a very few yards of it; it appeared about thirty feet
broad, running over a sandy bottom. I think it extremely probable that
the waters of both the main branches, after losing a very considerable
portion over the low grounds in the neighbourhood of Mount Cunningham
and Field's Plains, have again united and formed the present stream.
Our future course did not admit of any hesitation, and it was resolved
to go down the stream as long as there was a chance of its becoming more
considerable, and until our provisions should be so far expended as
barely to enable us to return to Bathurst.
It is a singular phenomenon in the history of this river, that, in a
course of upwards of two hundred and fifty miles, in a direct line from
where Mr. Evans first discovered it, not the smallest rivulet, or, in
fact, water of any description, falls into it from either the north or
south; with the exception of the two small occasional streams near the
depot, which flow from the north.
The country to the southward, in its soil and productions, explains
pretty satisfactorily why no constant running streams can have sources
in that direction; and it may be esteemed, as to useful purposes,
a desert, uninhabitable country. A small strip along the sea-coast
may possibly be better, and derive water from the low hills which
are known to border on it: south of the parallel of 34. S. may
therefore be considered as falling under the above designation and
description of country.
The plains south of the river, and lying from Goulburn's to Macquarie's
Range, were named Strangford Plains; and a remarkable peak south of
Barrow's Hill, Dryander's Head.
We resolved to try if our old friends, the fish, still continued in the
streams; in the course of a short time five fine ones were caught: this
most seasonable refreshment had an excellent effect in raising our
hitherto depressed spirits; and eternal Hope again visited us in the
form of extensive lakes and a better country; and even when her
companion Fear obtruded herself on our minds, the certainty of plenty of
water, and the chance of a fresh meal, dispelled every remaining
anxiety.
It was a matter of considerable curiosity and interest to us, in what
direction the Macquarie River had run; it was clear that it had not
joined the present stream, for in that case it would have been much more
considerable: we were within three or four miles of the latitude of
Bathurst, and it was scarcely probable that it should continue for so
long a course to run parallel to the Lachlan. The whole form, character,
and composition of this part of the country is so extremely singular,
that a conjecture on the subject is hardly hazarded before it is
overturned; every thing seems to run counter to the ordinary course of
nature in other countries.
June 24.--The water is about three feet above the common level, and
although the banks on both sides are certainly occasionally overflowed,
there is no appearance of any fresh or flood having swollen the stream
for a considerable time.
At nine o'clock we set forward down the river; our course lay westerly,
and by three o'clock we had gone nearly twelve miles in that direction;
when we stopped for the night on the banks of the river near the
termination of Macquarie's Range, the north point of which I named Mount
Porteous.
Strangford's Plains lay along our course the whole way; the river being
hidden from our view by a thick border of trees. We observed several
hollows and gulleys, which being connected with the river in times of
flood, receive their waters from it; they were now dry; but the
singularity consisted in the water being conveyed by them over the low
lands instead of their being the channels by which the waters in rainy
seasons might be drained off to the river. During our whole journey, we
have never discovered in what manner any additional supply of water
could be conveyed to it, as the back lands (with the exception of the
ranges) were always lower than the immediate banks of the river itself;
where we stopped, it was about thirty feet wide, and nearly choked up
with fallen trees.
Whilst the horses were coming up, I set off, accompanied by Mr.
Cunningham, for the purpose of ascending Mount Porteous: the view from
it by no means repaid us for our trouble; the same everlasting flats met
our eye in every direction westerly round nearly to north, in which
quarter the horizon was occasionally studded with hills, at too great a
distance to render them objects of interest to us. The immediate
vicinity of the river was free from timber or brush in various places;
and these tracts have hitherto received the particular denomination of
PLAINS, which might with equal propriety be extended to the whole
country. The bases of the hills and ranges were invariably a barren red
sand, affording nourishment to a few miserable cypresses and eucalypti
dumosa; between which, and filling up all the intermediate spaces, grows
a variety of acacia and dwarf shrubs, rendering those parts nearly a
thicket. Within one hundred yards of the bank of the river, and there
alone, were seen the only timber trees we had met with in the country;
if huge unshapen eucalypti, which would not afford a straight plank ten
feet long, may be so denominated.
June 25,--Proceeded down the river, and at three o'clock halted for the
night, having performed about eleven miles; the country barren, even to
the very verge of the stream, which continues to run nearly west. We
were obliged to keep at a small distance from the river, owing to large
lagoons, partly full of water, which would have otherwise interrupted
our course, or rather our multitude of courses; for I never saw a stream
with such opposite windings, and no one reach was a quarter of a mile
long, so that it may be said to resemble a collar of SS. The opposite
plains were named Butterworth Plains.
Several new plants were the result of to-day's research, among them a
new species of amaryllis, upon which the botanists prided themselves
much; for in this country few were supposed to be in existence.
June 26--The morning cold and frosty. At nine o'clock we proceeded down
the river, which inclined to the south of west for ten miles; when at
three o'clock we stopped for the evening. We passed through a country to
the full as barren as any we had yet seen. There were occasional clear
spaces, but for the greater part thick cypress bushes, acacia, and other
low shrubs, rendered it difficult for the horses to pass. On the plain,
the acacia pendula again made a very fine appearance.
The timber on the intermediate banks of the stream became scarcer and
smaller; and from the marks on the trees in the swamps, it sometimes
overflows them to the depth of two feet; but they have now apparently
been long dry, the little water remaining in the hollows or holes being
a milky white.
The abundance of white cockatoos and crows, which is constantly about
the banks of the river, is astonishing; the other smaller birds appear
to be also common to the east coast. Since we have been on the river, no
recent traces of the natives have been seen; here, as higher up the
river, they rather seem to shun it, and frequent the higher grounds in
preference: perhaps their food is more easily procured on those grounds
than on the river, particularly as they appear unacquainted with the
method of taking the fish by hook and line.
As the horses were by no means in a condition to be forced, I determined
to remain here to-morrow to refresh them, and set forward again on
Saturday morning.
June 27.--After breakfast, I sent two men down the river to examine our
route for to-morrow: one of them crossed over to the north side, to
endeavour to reach some open spaces of plains which we saw from our
tent. In the course of the afternoon they both returned; one, who had
gone a little way inland on this side, could make no progress for
extensive swamps, covered with water of the depth of from two to four
feet, and abounding with black swans and wild fowl. The other man was
also unable to reach the plains on the other side for water supplied
from a creek of the river, and forming an extensive and deep morass.
With these unfavourable reports before us, we determined to keep close
to this bank of the river during tomorrow's journey; and if we should he
prevented by its overflowing from proceeding, to return, and endeavour
to round the morasses to the southward. Latitude by observation
33. 22. S., long. 145. 24. 15. E.; and the variation of the compass
7. 30. E.
June 28.--Upon farther consideration, it appeared more advisable that
the horses should proceed round the south edge of the morasses rather
than be obliged to return; after keeping by the river for three or four
miles, which to all appearance was as far as we should be enabled to
proceed in that direction. However, that there might remain no doubt as
to which was the preferable route, I adhered to my determination to go
down the banks of the river myself as far as I could, and return by the
route which the horses were to take. Our principal object being to keep
as close to the stream as possible, with reference to the ability of the
horses to travel over the ground.
The horses set forward at nine o'clock$ and I proceeded down the stream
five or six miles, when I was obliged to return to the place from which
I set out, being unable to cross a small drain that led from the swamps
to the river. I could in no place deviate above fifty yards from the
river without being bogged, the water lying in some places eighteen
inches deep, and in holes, much deeper. I attempted several times to
proceed southerly, intending to cross the track which I presumed Mr.
Evans would be obliged to take, but I was unable to accomplish it. The
route taken by Mr. Evans and the horses led along the edge of extensive
morasses covered with water; we proceeded nine or ten miles, when the
morasses almost assumed the appearance of lakes; very extensive
portions of them being free from timber, and being apparently deep
water. South of the edge of the morass along which we travelled, the
country was a barren scrub, and in places very soft; the horses falling
repeatedly during the day.
At the place where we stopped for the evening, I calculated that we were
about five miles south of the river; on the edge of a very large lagoon,
or lake. The country was so extremely low, that before I returned up the
river to rejoin the horses, wishing to see what the openings on the
other side were, I ascended a large gum tree, which enabled me to see
that the flats opposite were similar to those on the south side. Our
progress, upon the whole although we had travelled upwards of ten miles,
did not exceed in a direct line five miles. The lagoons abound with
water fowl, although we were not so fortunate as to obtain any; we were
however amply compensated by our dogs killing a fine large emu. Various
old marks of natives having visited these lakes, but none recent.
June 29.--Our course in the first instance was directed in such a
manner as to compass the lagoons, which after travelling about three
miles and a half to the south-west, we accomplished, and again came upon
the stream; the country thence backward bore the marks of being at some
periods near three feet under water, and was covered with small
box-trees: the country from our rejoining the river, to the place at
which we stopped for the evening, consisted of barren plains, extending
on both sides of the stream to a considerable distance backward. The
points of the bends of the river were universally wet swamps with large
lagoons; the back land, though equally subject to flood, was now dry;
but the travelling was very heavy, the ground being a rotten, red, sandy
loam, on which nothing grew but the usual production of marshes. I never
saw a stream with so many sinuosities; in many places a quarter of a
mile would cut off at least three miles by the river. The stream was in
places much contracted, sand banks stretching nearly across; its medium
depth was about eight feet.
There was not the smallest eminence whence a view might be obtained, the
country appearing a dead level; and although on these plains we could
see for some distance all round, yet there was not a rising ground in
any direction. The plains on the north side of the stream were named
Holdsworthy; and those on the south, Harrington. We were lucky enough to
procure two fine emus.
June 30.--The first two or three miles were somewhat harder travelling
than the greater part of yesterday. Immense plains extended to the
westward, as far as the eye could reach. These plains were entirely
barren, being evidently in times of rain altogether under water, when
they doubtless form one vast lake: they extended in places from three to
six miles from the margin of the stream, which on its immediate borders
was a wet bog, full of small water holes, and the surface covered with
marsh plants, with a few straggling dwarf box-trees. It was only on the
very edge of the bank, and in the bottoms of the bights, that any
eucalypti grew; the plains were covered with nothing but gnaphalium: the
soil various, in some places red tenacious clay, in others a dark
hazel-coloured loam, so rotten and full of holes that it was with
difficulty the horses could travel over them. Although those plains were
bounded only by the horizon, not a semblance of a hill appeared in the
distance; we seemed indeed to have taken a long farewell of every thing
like an elevation, whence the surrounding country could be observed. To
the southward, bounding those plains in that direction, barren scrubs
and dwarf box-trees, with numberless holes of stagnant water, too
clearly proclaimed the nature of the country in that quarter. We could
see through the openings of the trees on the river that plains of
similar extent occupied the other side, which has all along appeared to
us to be (if any thing) the lower ground. We travelled in the centre of
the plains, our medium distance from the river being from one to two
miles; and although we did not go above thirteen miles, some of the
horses were excessively distressed from the nature of the ground.
There was not the least appearance of natives; nor was bird or animal of
any description seen during the day, except a solitary native dog.
Nothing can be more melancholy and irksome than travelling over wilds,
which nature seems to have condemned to perpetual loneliness and
desolation. We seemed indeed the sole living creatures in those vast
deserts.
The plains last travelled over were named Molle's Plains, after the late
lieutenant-governor of the territory; and those on the opposite side,
Baird's Plains, after the general to whom he once acted as aide-de-camp,
and whose glory he shared. The naming of places was often the only
pleasure within our reach; but it was some relief from the desolation of
these plains and hills to throw over them the associations of names dear
to friendship, or sacred to genius. In the evening three or four small
fish were caught.
July 1.--Dark cloudy morning, with showers of rain. However desirous I
was to proceed, I found that to do so would greatly injure the horses.
Towards noon it cleared up, permitting me to take a tolerable
observation, to ascertain our situation. I consider ourselves as
peculiarly fortunate in being blessed with so dry and favourable a
season; since all attempts to penetrate into the country during rain, or
after an inundation of the stream, must have failed. I am quite
convinced that at this place, when the banks are overflowed, the waters
must extend from thirty to forty miles on each side of the stream, as we
are that distance from any eminence. If there had been any nearer to the
north, west, or south, we must have seen it from those extensive plains
on which we have travelled for the last three days; for looking
eastward, we can distinctly perceive Macquarie's Range, from which we
estimate ourselves to be about thirty-five miles west. The stream was
sounded in various places during the day, and its greatest depth never
exceeded seven feet; the bottom and sides a stiff bluish clay. Latitude
observed 33. 32. 22. S., longitude 145. 5. 50. E.; variation of the
compass 6. 49. E.
July 2.--At nine o'clock we again set forward down the stream; our
course, as it has hitherto done, lay over apparently interminable
plains, nothing relieving the eye but a few scattered bushes, and
occasionally some dwarf box-trees: the view was boundless as the ocean,
neither eminence nor hillock appearing. On the edges of the stream
alone, and the lagoons that occasionally branched from it, was any thing
like timber to be seen. The occasional openings on the stream enabled us
to perceive, that the north side was in every respect similar to the
south: I was so much deceived, by the semblance of the plains on the
other side to sheets of water, that I twice went down to the edge of the
stream to assure myself to the contrary.
A strong current of water must frequently pass over these plains, as is
evident from the traces left by the washings of shrubs, leaves, etc. The
soil was a brown hazel-coloured sandy loam, very soft and boggy; in
places it was more tenacious, water still remaining in many holes. By
the marks on the trees it would seem that the stream occasionally
overflows its banks to the depth of three or four feet; and five miles
back from it small trees were seen, that had evidently stood from twelve
to eighteen inches in the water. As usual we saw no recent signs of
natives having visited these parts; here and there the remains of
burnt muscle-shells would denote that at certain seasons the stream is
visited by them for the purpose of procuring these shell-fish: I am
clearly of opinion that, in dry summers, there is no running water in
the bed of the present stream, and thus it is easy for them to procure
the muscles from the shallow stagnant pools which would naturally be
formed at every bend of the stream. To procure any such shell-fish
whilst a stream like the present is running in it, is totally
impossible.
Although we did not travel above eleven miles, we were nearly seven
hours in performing it. Our halting place was within a few feet of the
river, and so wet and spongy, that the water sprung even from the
pressure of our feet; and this has been the case nearly ever since we
made the stream, though of course we chose the driest spots. Neither
hunting nor fishing were successful today, but as we had become from
experience not over sanguine, our expectations were not much
disappointed, and the aspect of the country promised nothing.
It had been remarked by all, for some days past, that a putrid sour
smell seemed to proceed from the plains, and we were at first at some
loss to discover the cause of it, as there did not appear sufficient
vegetable matter in a decayed state to produce such an effect. Mr.
Cunningham discovered that it proceeded from decayed plants of the
salsolae, which produce the same effect as decayed sea-weed does in salt
marshes; in short, all the plants found in our journey over these plains
are the natural productions of low wet situations.
July 3.--So thick a fog arose during the night, that in the morning we
could not see in any direction above one hundred yards; this delayed us
considerably, and it was the middle of the day before we could proceed.
Our course lay over the same description of country as we had previously
passed. The soil in some parts a red loamy mould; in others, a dark
hazel-coloured sandy soil: this last appears to have its origin in the
depositions left by floods, the former being the original or prevailing
soil. The plants and shrubs the same as yesterday.
Several flocks of a new description of pigeon were seen for the first
time; two were shot, and were beautiful and curious. Their heads were
crowned with a black plume, their wings streaked with black, the short
feathers of a golden colour edged with white; the back of their necks a
light flesh-colour, their breasts fawn-coloured, and their eyes red. A
new species of cockatoo or paroquet, being between both, was also seen,
with red necks and breasts, and grey backs. I mention these birds thus
particularly, as they are the only ones we have yet seen which at all
differ from those known on the east coast. [Note: See the Plates.] Our
visible horizon, in every direction, being merely studded with shrubs
and low bushes, gave the scene a singular marine appearance. We stopped
about two miles south of the river, not being able to reach it before
night-fall, the marshy ground having driven us a considerable distance
round.
July 4.--During this day's course we repeatedly attempted to gain the
situation where we supposed the river to take its course, but were
always disappointed; immense swamps constantly barred our attempts to
travel northerly; these swamps were now covered with several feet of
water, which, from the marks of dwarf trees growing in them, is
sometimes three or four feet deeper. The same dead level of country
still prevailed; and the sandy deserts of Arabia could not boast a
clearer horizon, the low acacia bushes not in any degree interrupting
the view. It was remarkable that there was always water where the dwarf
box-trees grew; we might therefore be said to coast along from woody
point to point, since all attempts to pass through them were uniformly
defeated. The soil the same as yesterday, and most unpleasant to travel
over, from the circular pools or hollows, which covered the whole plain,
and which seem to be formed by whirlpools of water, having a deep hole
in the bottom, through which the water appeared to have gradually
drained off. It is clear that the entire country is at times inundated,
and that as every thing now bears the appearance of long-continued
drought, the swamps and stagnant waters are the residuum.
In the whole we proceeded upwards of fourteen miles, and stopped for the
night upon the edge of one of the swamps, which are now the only places
that afford any timber for firing. Some traces of natives were seen
today, about three or four days old; they appeared to have been a single
family of four or five persons. If there are any natives in our
neighbourhood, they must have discovered us, and keep out of the way,
otherwise upon these clear flats we could not avoid seeing them.
We were again fortunate enough to kill an emu, a most acceptable
supply, since continued exercise gives us appetites something beyond
what our ration can satisfy.
July 5.--Independently of the nature of the country rendering it
altogether uninhabitable, the noxious vapours that must naturally arise
during the heats of summer from these marshes (should the present
surface of land on which we are now travelling be then free from water),
would render the whole tract peculiarly unhealthy. Even during the short
space of a fortnight, when it might be presumed that the winter's cold
had in a great degree rendered the effluvia innoxious, every person in
the expedition was more or less affected by dysenterical complaints; and
the putrid sour smell that constantly attended us was symptomatic of
what would be its effects when rendered active by the powerful heats of
summer.
Although there was no grass out of the marshes for the horses to feed
upon, yet they appeared to live very tolerably upon a species of
atriplex which covered the plains, and being extremely succulent was
eaten with avidity by them; they certainly preferred it to the grasses
which the swamps produced.
Our route lay over the same unvarying plain surface as on the preceding
days, and after travelling about five miles, we again saw the line of
trees growing on the banks of the stream; and having performed about ten
miles more, we halted on the immediate banks of it. These were
considerably lower, being about six feet above the water; the current
was almost imperceptible, and the depth did not exceed four feet, and
was extremely muddy; the trees growing on the banks were neither so
large nor so numerous as before, and a new species of eucalyptus
prevailed over the old blue gum. The north-east side was precisely of
the same description of country as the south-east. A very large sheet of
water or lake lay on the north-west side, opposite to the place where we
made the river. The horizon was clear and distinct round the whole
circle, the line of trees on the river alone excepted. From the marks on
these trees, the waters appear to rise about three feet above the level
of the bank; a height more than sufficient to inundate the whole
country. This stream is certainly in the summer season, or in the long
absence of rain, nothing more than a mere chain of ponds, serving as a
channel to convey the waters from the eastward over this low tract. It
is certain that no waters join this river from its source to this point;
and passing, as it does, for the most part, through a line of country so
low as to be frequently overflowed, and to an extent north and south
perfectly unknown. but certainly at this place exceeding forty miles, it
must cause the country to remain for ever uninhabitable, and useless for
all the purposes of civilized man.
These considerations, added to the state of our provisions, of which, at
the reduced ration of three pounds of flour per man per week, we had but
ten weeks remaining, determined me to proceed no farther westward with
the main part of the expedition; but as the state of the greater part of
our horses was such as absolutely to require some days' rest and
refreshment, before we attempted to return eastward, I considered that
it would be acting best up to the spirit of my instructions to proceed
forward myself with three men and horses, and as we should carry nothing
with us but our provisions, we should be enabled to proceed with so much
expedition, as to go as far and see as much in three days as would take
the whole party at least seven to perform.
My object in thus proceeding farther was to get so far to the westward
as to place beyond all question the impossibility of a river falling
into the sea between Cape Otway and Cape Bernouilli. In my opinion, the
very nature of the country altogether precludes such a possibility, but
I think my proceeding so far will be conclusive with those who have most
strongly imbibed the conviction that a river enters the sea between the
Capes in question, which was certainly an idea I also had entertained,
and which nothing but the survey of a country, without either hills or
permanent streams, could have destroyed.
I must observe as a remarkable feature in this singular country, that
for the last fifty miles we have not seen a stone or pebble of any kind,
save two, and they were taken out of the maws of two emus. I am now
firmly persuaded that there are no eminent grounds in this part of the
country, until these low sandy hills [Note: From Encounter Bay to this
slight projection (Cape Bernouilli), the coast is little else than a
bank of sand, with a few hummocks on the top, partially covered with
small vegetation, nor could any thing in the interior country be
distinguished above the bank. Flinder's Voy. Vol. I. p. 197.] which
bound the south-western coast-line are reached; and these, in my
judgment, are the only barriers which prevent the ocean from extending
its empire over a country which was probably once under its dominion.
July 6.--A fine and pleasant morning; one of the horses was found dead,
the greater part of the others in a very weakly state.
July 7.--At eight o'clock, taking with me three men, I proceeded to
follow the course of the stream; I attempted in the first instance to
keep away from the banks, but was soon obliged to join them, as the
morasses extended outwards and intersected my proposed course in almost
every direction. About three miles and a half from the tent, a large arm
extended from the north bank to a considerable distance on that side;
the banks continually getting lower, and before we had gone six miles it
was evident that the channel of the stream was only the bed of a lagoon,
the current now being imperceptible, with small gum trees growing in the
middle. Three miles farther the morasses closed upon us, and rendered
all farther progress impossible. The water was here stagnant. The large
trees that used to be met with in such numbers up the stream were
entirely lost, a few diminutive gums being the only timber to be seen:
the height of the bank from the water-line was three feet six inches;
and the marks of floods on the trunks of the trees rose to the height of
four feet six inches, being about one foot above the level of the
surrounding marshes. It would appear that the water is frequently
stationary at that height for a considerable time, as long moss and
other marks of stagnant waters were remaining on the trunks and roots of
the trees, and on the long-leaved acacia, which was here a strong plant.
There could not be above three feet water in this part of the lagoon, as
small bushes and tufts of tea grass were perceptible. The water was
extremely muddy, and the odour arising from the banks and marshes was
offensive in the extreme. There were only four different kinds of plants
at this terminating point of our journey, viz. the small eucalyptus, the
long-leaved acacia, the large tea grass, and a new diaeceous plant which
covered the marshes, named polygonum junceum. It is possible that the
bed of the lagoon might extend eight or ten miles farther, but I do not
think it did, as the horizon was perfectly clear in all directions, a
few bushes and acacia trees, marking the course of the lagoon, excepted.
Had there been any hill or even small eminence within thirty or forty
miles of me they must now have been discovered, but there was not the
least appearance of any such, and it was with infinite regret and pain
that I was forced to come to the conclusion, that the interior of this
vast country is a marsh and uninhabitable. How near these marshes may
approach the south-western coast, I know not; but I do not think that the
range of high and dry land in that quarter extends back north-easterly
for any great distance; it being known, that the coast from Cape
Bernouilli to the head of Spencer's Gulf is sandy and destitute of
water. [Note: The view from the top of Mount Brown (in lat. 32. 30. 15.
S.
and lon. 138. 0. 3/4. E. head of Spencer's Gulf) was very extensive,
its elevation not being less than three thousand feet; but neither
rivers nor lakes could be perceived, nor any thing of the sea to the
south-eastward. In almost every direction the eye traversed over an
uninterruptedly flat woody country, the sole exceptions being the ridge
of mountains, extending north and south; and the water of the gulf to
the south-westward. Flinder's Voy. Vol. I. p. 159.]
Perhaps there is no river, the history of which is known, that presents
so remarkable a termination as the present: its course in a straight
line from its source to its termination exceeds five hundred miles, and
including its windings, it may fairly be calculated to run at least
twelve hundred miles; during all which passage, through such a vast
extent
of country, it does not receive a single stream in addition to what it
derives from its sources in the eastern mountains.
I think it a probable conjecture that this river is the channel by which
all the waters rising in those ranges of hills to the westward of Port
Jackson, known by the name of the Blue Mountains, and which do not fall
into the sea on the east coast, are conveyed to these immense inland
marshes; its sinuous course causing it to overflow its banks on a much
higher level than the present, and in consequence, forming those low wet
levels which are in the very neighbourhood of the government depot. Its
length of course is, in my opinion, the principal cause of our finding
any thing like a stream for the last one hundred miles, as the immense
body of water which must undoubtedly be at times collected in such a
river must find a vent somewhere, but being spent during so long a
course without any accession, the only wonder is, that even those waters
should cause a current at so great a distance from their source;
everything however indicates, as before often observed, that in dry
seasons the channel of the river is empty, or forms only a chain of
ponds. It appears to have been a considerable length of time since the
banks were overflowed, certainly not for the last year; and I think it
probable they are not often so: the quantity of water must indeed be
immense, and of long accumulation, in the upper marshes, before the
whole of this vast country can be under water.
My intention to penetrate farther westward being thus frustrated, I
returned to the tent about three o'clock, and determined, should the
horses appear sufficiently recovered and refreshed, finally to quit
this western part of the country on Thursday next; a few days rain
would prevent us from ever quitting it, but we have been bountifully
favoured by Providence with a season of continued fair and pleasant
weather, which could hardly have been expected, and which alone could
have enabled us to decide so satisfactorily, if it can be called
satisfaction to prove the negative of the existence of any navigable
rivers in this part of Australia.
July 8.--Observed the sun's magnetic amplitude in rising from the clear
horizon of the plain, a circumstance that rarely can occur in any
country unless such a one as the present; it strongly marks the.
horizontal level which seems to run now from east to west.
Mean lat. of our tent 33 degrees 53 minutes 19 seconds S.
Comp. long. 144 33 50 E.
Mean variation 7 25 00 E.
Situation of the spot where the stream ceased to have a current.
Lat 33 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds S.
Long. comp. 144 23 00 E.
Do. do. 144 31 15 E.
No hill or eminence in a south-west direction terminating in
lat. 34. 22. 12. and in long. 143. 30. 00. E. which is the calculated
extent of our visible clear horizon.
The afternoon proved cloudy, with occasional showers: prepared every
thing for our return eastward on the morrow.
July 9.--The morning fair and pleasant, but cold, the ground being
covered with hoar-frost. At half-past eight we set out on our return
eastward, every one feeling no little pleasure at quitting a region
which had presented nothing to his exertions but disappointment and
desolation. Under a tree near the tent, inscribed with the words "Dig
under," we buried a bottle, containing a paper bearing the date of our
arrival and departure, with our purposed course, and the names of each
individual that composed the party. I cannot flatter myself with the
belief, however, that European eyes will ever trace the characters
either on the tree or the paper; but we deposited the scroll as a
memorial that the spot had been once in the tide of time visited by
civilized man, and that should Providence forbid our safe return to
Bathurst, the friends who might search for us should at least know the
course we had taken.
About two o'clock we arrived at our halting-place of the 4th; and
there being no place convenient for pitching our tent within six or
seven miles farther on, we determined to remain here.
July 10.--Observed the variation of the compass by amp., at sun-rising,
to be 7. 47. E., by Kater's compass. The horses having strayed, it was
nearly eleven o'clock before we could set out, and between four and five
o'clock we stopped at our halting-place of the 3d. On our way we passed
a raised mound of earth which had somewhat the appearance of a
burial-place; we opened it, but found nothing in it except a few ashes,
but whether from bones or wood could not be distinguished; a
semicircular trench was dug round one side of it, as if for seats for
persons in attendance.
July 11.--At nine, again set forward on our return up the river, and it
was near four o'clock before we arrived at a convenient halting-place on
its banks, the river presented a most singular phenomenon to our
astonished view. That river which yesterday was so shallow that it could
be walked across, and whose stream was scarcely perceptible, was now
rolling along its agitated and muddy waters nearly on a level with the
banks: whence this sudden rise, we could not divine, any more than we
could account for the non-appearance of a fresh twenty miles lower down;
unless the marshes which we have traced for the two last days, at a
distance from the river, should have absorbed the waters in passing, or
unless the extremely winding course should so protract and retard the
current of them as to cause a considerable time to elapse before a flood
in the upper parts could reach the lower. We considered ourselves as
extremely fortunate in having quitted our station of the 8th a day or
two before it was originally intended, as we should otherwise have been
in considerable danger.
The present height of the bank above the level of the stream is four
feet nine inches.
A singular instance of affection in one of the brute creation was this
day witnessed. About a week ago we killed a native dog, and threw his
body on a small bush: in returning past the same spot to-day, we found
the body removed three or four yards from the bush, and the female in a
dying state lying close beside it; she had apparently been there from
the day the dog was killed, being so weakened and emaciated as to be
unable to move on our approach. It was deemed mercy to despatch her.
A tomb similar in form to that which we observed yesterday being
discovered near our halting-place of this day, I caused it to be opened:
it is as a conical mound of earth about four feet high in the centre,
and nearly eight feet long in the longest part, exactly in the centre,
and deep in the ground: we at first thought we perceived the remains of
a human body, which had been originally placed upon sticks arranged
transversely, but now nearly decayed by time; nothing remained of what
we took for the body but a quantity of unctuous clayey matter. The whole
had the appearance of being not recent, the semicircular seats being now
nearly level with the rest of the ground, and the tomb itself overgrown
with weeds. The river fell about three inches in the course of the
night.
July 12.--It is impossible that any weather can be finer than that which
we are favoured with. For days together the sky is unobscured by even a
single cloud, and although the air is cold and sharp, yet the dryness of
the atmosphere amply repays us for any little inconvenience we sustain
from the cold. At nine, we again set forward on our return up the river,
and at three arrived on its banks, having performed about twelve miles.
The river had fallen about one foot in the course of the day. The horses
being much fatigued by the heavy travelling over the flats, and many of
them being very sorely galled in the back, I propose halting to-morrow
to refresh them. We were this day once more cheered by the sight of
rising ground; Macquarie's Range just appearing above the horizon,
distance about forty miles; and we felt that we were again about to
tread on secure and healthy land, with a chance of procuring some sort
of game, which would now be very acceptable, our diet being entirely
confined to pork and our morsel of bread. The weather is far too cold for
us to have any hopes of procuring fish; all our attempts to catch them
for the last fortnight being unsuccessful. The odour from the river and
marshes was most fetid, and was, I think, even stronger than that which
we had before experienced.
July 13.--In the course of the day the river fell upwards of a foot.
July 14.--The river fell about eighteen inches. We found that the horses
had again strayed, and they were not found and brought home until past
sunset, having wandered about in search of food from eight to twelve
miles in various directions. As the people had of course separated in
the search, three men still remained out; and being fearful that the
darkness of the night might prevent them from finding the camp, fired
several musquets, and kindled a fire upon the plains. It was twelve
o'clock before they were fortunate enough to regain the tents.
July 15.--At three, having travelled about twelve miles, halted on the
stream for the evening. The dogs killed an emu.
July 16.--Cloudy, but mild and pleasant. We retraced this day much of
the same ground which we travelled on the 28th ult. The horses were
frequently up to their shoulders in deep holes, to the danger of
breaking their own limbs, or those of their leaders or riders. There is
a uniformity in the barren desolateness of this country, which wearies
one more than I am able to express. One tree, one soil, one water, and
one description of bird, fish, or animal, prevails alike for ten miles,
and for one hundred. A variety of wretchedness is at all times
preferable to one unvarying cause of pain or distress.
We halted on the margin of one of the swamps, after travelling about
eleven miles, which it took eight hours to accomplish.
July 17.--Part of the horses again strayed; these delays in such a
country try our patience to the very utmost, and their very rambling is
the sole means of their being kept alive. It was past eleven before we
could set out, and the rain that had fallen during the night rendered
our track so extremely soft that it was with difficulty the horses could
proceed. At three we halted for the evening on a large lagoon near the
river, having gone about nine miles and a quarter.
July 18.--At nine proceeded onwards towards Macquarie's Range; and at
four, we halted at the place we rested at on the 24th ult. For the first
time since we left Cypress Hill we heard natives on the other side of
the river, but they kept out of our sight.
July 19.--At nine we proceeded up the river, and at three arrived at the
spot where we first reached the river on the 23d ult. The fresh in the
river was still considerable, being from three to five feet above its
apparent usual level.
July 20.--Rested the horses to-day, having had a hard week's work, and
the weather being unfavourable. Confirmed my intention of returning to
Bathurst instead of the depot on the Lachlan, for the following reasons.
The route up the Lachlan would be difficult and very tedious, not to say
impracticable, without the assistance of boats in crossing the two
principal creeks; and if it should have proved wet and rainy, it would
be nearly impossible to travel over the low-lands with loaded horses.
Again, our return by the route outward would not afford us any
additional knowledge of the country, and presuming this river to be the
Lachlan, the course and the country in the neighbourhood of the
Macquarie would still remain unknown. To return to Bathurst by a
northerly course would enable us to trace the Macquarie to a very
considerable distance; it would give us a knowledge of the country at
least two hundred miles below Bathurst; and although the difficulties we
may meet with in the attempt are of course unknown to us, yet I consider
it a far preferable route to returning by the Lachlan, the difficulties
of which are known, and I think we may reach one station as soon as the
other.
To-morrow, therefore, I am resolved to set forward again up the stream,
and take the earliest opportunity to cross it; when, should the
inclination of its course be such as to give reason to believe it to be
the Macquarie, we shall continue on the north bank the whole way to
Bathurst: but, on the contrary, should its course leave it no longer in
doubt that it is the Lachlan again rising from the marshes under Mount
Cunningham, we shall quit its banks, and, taking a north-easterly
course, endeavour to fall in with the Macquarie, which having found, I
shall pursue my first intention of keeping along its banks until we
arrive at Bathurst. The river has risen in the course of the night and
morning about eighteen inches. We killed this day a red kangaroo, and
three emus.
July 21.--The stream has risen nearly eighteen inches in the night. It
is extremely puzzling whence such a body of water can come thus
suddenly. There must have been a great deal of rain in the eastern
mountains, and the accumulated waters can be only now bending their way
to the lower grounds; should the winter have proved wet to the eastward,
it will undoubtedly solve the problem.
At half past eight o'clock we proceeded up the river, which during our
day's journey trended nearly north. Both banks appeared equally low:
that on which we were travelling extended to the base of Goulburn's
Range, and was wet and barren. About two miles from our night's
encampment, we ascended a low stony hill, from which the country
northerly was broken into detached hills; to the east was Goulburn's
Range, and to the north-west the country was low without any rising
grounds as far as we could see. The sameness which had so wearied us
during the last month was somewhat relieved by the various rising
hills and low ranges which were scattered over the otherwise level
surface of the country. A hill bearing N. 15 E. received the name
of Mount Torrens; it stood quite detached. Two of the men, who were
about a mile ahead of the main party, fell in with a small native
family, consisting of a man, two women and three children, the
eldest about three years old. The man was very stout and tall; he
was armed with a jagged spear, and no friendly motions of the men (who
were totally unarmed) could induce him to lay it aside, or suffer them
to approach him: during the short time they were with him, he kept the
most watchful eye upon them; and when the men calling the dogs together
were about to depart, he threw down with apparent fierceness the little
bark guneah which had sheltered him and his family during the night, and
made towards the river, calling loudly and repeatedly, as if to bring
others to his assistance: he was quite naked, except the netted band
round the waist, in which were womerahs. The women were covered with
skins over their shoulders, and the two younger children were slung in
them on their backs.
There was a very considerable fresh in the stream, and its windings
to-day were singularly remarkable, insomuch that it was frequently taken
for two different rivers; necks of land near a mile long, but not one
hundred yards wide, being the only separation between several of the
reaches. At three o'clock we halted on its banks, having travelled
eleven miles and a half.
July 22.--The river had risen during the night upwards of a foot, and
was now about eight feet from the banks; its breadth from thirty to
fifty feet, whilst its apparent usual channel could not exceed from
fifteen to twenty. The calls of the natives were heard this morning on
the opposite side of the river. At nine o'clock we again proceeded up
the river, which to-day trended east by north. About four miles east
from our last station, we ascended a stony mount being near the
north-east extreme of Goulburn's Range: the country to the north-east
and round to east was without any eminences of magnitude, but several
rising chains of low hills were scattered over the general surface of
the country; they were mostly bare of trees, being stony and barren. It
is impossible to imagine a worse tract of country than that through
which our route lay this day; to the very edges of the stream, it was a
barren acacia scrub intermingled with cypresses and dwarf box-trees. The
flats were uniformly swampy, and covered with bushes (rhagodea); the
hills instead of grass were clothed with gnapthalium. We repeatedly saw
the river in our course, but I could find no eligible place to cross it,
as the trees which would have suited our purpose for bridges were now,
in consequence of the fresh or flood, in the very middle of the stream.
The banks where the rising grounds came immediately on the river were
high and of a red loamy clay, and when this was the case the opposite
banks were seen to be low in proportion: when we halted for the night,
they were not above five or six feet, and I think there must have been
from ten to twelve feet more water in the bed of the stream than usual.
Bad as the travelling was even close to the stream, it was still worse
about two miles back from it; several small scrubs of the eucalyptus
dumosa and prickly shrubs were passed through by the men who had taken
out the dogs in search of game; and from the hill we first ascended, we
observed several very extensive scrubs to the northward, of the same
description. At half past three we halted for the night, having gone
about eleven miles.
July 23.--The river had fallen a little during the night. At nine
o'clock we again set forward: the country became extremely low and
marshy, far more so than any we had passed over east of Macquarie's
Range. These marshes extended so far southerly that to have gone round
them would have led us far from our purposed course without answering
any useful purpose, and although we judged that at first they might not
extend above three or four miles back, yet we soon had reason to change
that opinion. The river had led us upon a general course nearly east
about six miles, when about half a mile from the bank southerly, a very
extensive lake was formed, extending about east-south-east and
west-north-west from three to four miles, and being about a mile and a
half wide. Excepting the sheet of water on the north side near the
termination of the stream, this was the only one we had seen that could
justly be entitled to the denomination of lake. We crossed over a low
wet swamp, by which its overflowings are doubtless re-conveyed to the
river. This lake was joined to another more easterly, but much smaller.
We could not form any correct judgment how far the marshy ground
extended south-east of it; but the country was low and level as far as
Mount Byng, and a low range extended north-easterly from it. We now kept
the banks of the stream, till at the tenth mile we ascended a small hill
a mile south of it, from which Mount Byng bore N. 12. E. Close under the
hill ran a considerable branch of the river, which certainly supplied
the lakes and lower grounds with water; on the other side of this arm,
the country was low, and apparently marshy as far as we could see. On
examination I found it would be extremely difficult to cross this
branch, as the water was too shallow to swim the horses over, and the
ground so soft that they could not approach the banks within several
yards. I therefore determined to get upon the river nearly where this
branch separated from it, and endeavour to construct a bridge, by which
we might convey the provisions and baggage over: as to the horses, they
could easily swim across.
The course of the river during the day had been nearly due east, but
from the separation of the branch it seemed to take a more northerly
direction; the banks were very low, and never exceeded five feet from
the water. Occasional points of land somewhat more elevated than the
general surface would of course make them in Places a little higher; but
we could not discover any marks which denoted a greater rise than six
feet, or six feet six inches, above the present level. When we halted in
the evening, the stream was running with great rapidity. The water did
not appear to have either risen or fallen during the day; but all the
trees which would have best answered our purposes were now several feet
in the water. We had however no alternative but to cross somewhere in
this neighbourhood, as we were fearful of entangling ourselves in marshy
ground by proceeding farther up this bank; and to attempt to penetrate,
or even to round, the marshes to the southward, (if it were
practicable,) would take up more time (without being of any service)
than we could spare. Experience had made us too well acquainted with the
nature of these marshes to run any needless risks; and we had besides
great hopes that we should find better travelling to the northward,
which as the river seemed inclined to come from that point would also be
a great convenience to us, as I did not purpose to quit its banks as
long as it continued to run any thing north of east.
As to the soil and general description of country passed over this day,
the low-lands were all swamps covered with atriplex bushes, and where
the land was a little more elevated, the soil was sandy and barren,
covered with acacias, dodonaeae, small cypresses and dwarf box-trees. Our
course was E. 4. N. 6 3/4 miles; but by the windings of the river, we had
measured nearly 12 miles. The lake I named Campbell Lake, in honour of
Mrs. Macquarie's family name.
July 24.--At day-light we attempted to construct our bridge near to the
place where we were encamped, but as fast as the trees were felled they
were swept away by the rapidity of the current; the breadth on an
average being now, by reason of the flood, nearly sixty feet, and the
trees on the immediate or proper banks being several feet in the water:
we were therefore obliged to fell trees farther inland, and these, as
before remarked, were swept away, falling short of the land on the
opposite side.
All our attempts to construct a bridge during the day were fruitless, as
the flood was too violent to allow the trees to take firm hold: in
searching the banks of the stream for a proper place for our purpose, an
arm nearly as large as the main branch up which we had travelled was
discovered about a mile down the stream on the north side; it ran to the
north-north-west, and then apparently trended more westerly. Thus is this
vast body of water, all originating in the Eastern or Blue Mountains,
conveyed over these extensive marshes, rendering uninhabitable a tract
which they might reasonably be expected to fertilize.
Finding that in the present high state of the water we could not succeed
in crossing the river, at least near our present station, and that if we
returned lower down we should experience a farther difficulty in
crossing the north-west arm recently seen, it was judged best to try if
we could get over the branch on the south side, and swim the horses over
in the main stream near the mouth of the branch. We could not, however,
find any tree on this side that would reach across; although it was
quite dark before we gave over the attempt for the night.
July 25.--Every means was again employed in constructing the bridge over
the south-west branch. The stream had fallen but a few inches, and
continues to fall too slowly to permit us to entertain any hopes of
crossing it in this vicinity.
Our bridge was finished by one o'clock, but it being too late to cross
the horses and baggage this evening, I went in company with Byrne on
horseback to view the country to the southward. After going about two
miles and a quarter south of the tent, we were most agreeably surprised
with the sight of a very fine lake; we rode down to its shores, which on
this side were hard and sandy beaches. On the south side the shores were
bolder, being red clay cliffs. We now found that the creek or arm which
I had supposed to be the source whence Campbell Lake was supplied, had
not any communication with it, but supplied the lake we now saw: a low
ridge of hills, bare of trees except small cypresses in clumps, lying
between the two lakes, which were distant from each other two or three
miles. Finding I might obtain a better view by going to the point of
these bare hills about five miles westward, I rode thither along the
margin of the lake, but quitted it to ascend the hill, which was about
two miles and a half from it. The hill was but low in comparison with
Goulburn's Range and other hills in the vicinity, but was sufficiently
elevated to afford me the most varied and noble prospect I had seen in
New South Wales The expanse of water was too large and winding to be
seen in one point of view, but it broke in large sheets from east to
west for upwards of six miles; its medium breadth being from two and a
half to three miles: it was bounded six or seven miles from its eastern
extremity by a low range of hills connected with Mount Byng, and from
the dark broken woody appearance of the country in that direction, I
felt assured that the stream came from a more northerly quarter. To the
westward was Goulburn's Range, distant about five or six miles; its bold
rocky peaks of lofty elevation forming a striking contrast to the dead
level of the country southerly, in which however Mount Aiton appeared
like a blue speck on the horizon. To the northward was Mount Granard,
the highest of a very elevated range, it having been seen at a distance
of seventy-two miles from Mount Aiton; and to the north-north-east were
extensive open flats; in one place, bearing N. 17. E., I thought I could
distinguish water. Between the hill on which I stood and the stream,
Campbell Lake wound along the plain, but its width did not allow it to
be so conspicuously seen as the present one. To the south-east and round
to the north-east the country was covered with dark foliage of the
eucalyptus, intermixed with the cypress; whilst to the south-west, as
far as the base of Goulburn's Range, it was more open, with gentle hills
clothed with a few small cypresses. These hills were rocky and barren,
the lower grounds a red loamy clay; but the intermingled light and shade
formed by the different description of trees and shrubs, the hills,
but above all, the noble lake before me, gave a character to the scenery
highly picturesque and pleasing.
From this eminence I took the following bearings to objects connected in
the survey, viz.
The highest point of Goulburn's Range N. 225 degrees distance 5 or 6
miles.
Do. Do. Mount Aiton 143
Table Hill 116
Mount Byng 114
West extreme of the lake N. 106. 30. distance 2 1/2 miles.
East Do. Do. N. 65. distance 5 or 6 miles
Highest point of Mount Granard N. 341
Extremes of extensive flats from N. 346 1/2 to N. 10. distance
12 or 14 miles, the last point being also the extreme of a low
range.
Appearance of water or a lake N. 17 degrees
Mount Torrens N. 294 1/2
Mount Davidson N. 317 1/2
Bluff point of the clear hill on which I stand, and to which bearings
had been previously taken to ascertain its situation, N. 186,
distance 3/4 Mile.
Low range of hills extending from Mount Byng to N. 55.; nearest part
of that range, N. 81, distance 8 or 9 miles.
I came back to the tent at half-past four o'clock and it was extremely
satisfactory to us to find, on laying the different bearings down on the
chart, that the connection of the survey with Mount Aiton corresponded to
less than a mile of longitude, although it had extended on a most varied
course from that point between three and four hundred miles.
The water in the stream has remained stationary throughout the day.
July 26.--Mr. Evans set out to view the lake and take some sketches,
whilst I remained to forward the horses and baggage over the arm of the
river, by which time I expected he would return, so as to enable us to
proceed at least a few miles farther up. By half-past eleven we had got
the horses and every other thing safely over, and they proceeded up the
river. Mr. Evans did not return until half-past one to the bridge,
having been highly gratified with his excursion to the lake, of which he
had taken two views.
After proceeding to the north-east about three miles, through a low,
wet, and barren country, which is at times from eighteen inches to two
feet under water, we came upon another fine lake about a mile distant
from the river. This lake was not so large as the last, but was
nevertheless a fine sheet of water, about three miles long and one and a
half or two miles wide; the opposite or south shore was much more
elevated
than that near the river, which had here extremely low banks, the water
in the stream not being above four feet below them; the marks of flood
upon the trees were also upwards of three feet higher. The cypress-tree
grew very thick and strong on the opposite side of the lake, casting a
dark shade over its transparent waters, which, though certainly
originating in the river, had not received any supply for apparently a
considerable time. The land from hence to the place where we stopped for
the night was very low and much flooded, with fine, deep, clear lagoons
winding round almost every bend of the stream; the soil was also much
better, having more the appearance of fertility than any we had seen for
some time. About one and a half or two miles from the river a thick
cypress brush bordered the low lands, and was of course free from
floods. The small dwarf box-tree still, however, continued to be the
prevailing wood, and covered, as usual, the more wet and boggy portions
of the low land. The north-west side appeared to be higher, and the
banks, as much at least as we could see of them, seemed of better soil.
A large native's canoe having been found hauled tip near to the spot on
which we stopped, appearing to me sufficiently strong to be capable of
transporting ourselves and baggage to the opposite side of the river, I
determined to make trial of it for that purpose, and if found
practicable to cross at once, rather than wait the chance of the waters
falling sufficiently to enable us to construct a bridge, where, in the
event of failing in that design, no friendly canoe might be at hand to
assist us.
The waters in the stream had not fallen at all, and were about four or
five feet from the banks, continuing to run with great rapidity. The
first lake seen yesterday was named the Regent's Lake, in honour of His
Royal Highness the Prince Regent.
A superb scarlet flower, named kennedia speciosa, was found on the shore
of the first named lake. The course of the river this day was
north-east, and our distance five miles and a half, although we had
travelled upwards of eight and three-quarters.
July 27.--As soon as it was light, our little canoe was launched; but
our hopes and expectations had been too sanguine as to her capability:
sufficiently strong and buoyant to contain one person, more was too much
for her; I therefore of necessity abandoned the design, and at half-past
nine o'clock again proceeded up the strewn. The fresh did not in
the least diminish, but I thought rather rose than fell. A line which
had last night been thrown into the stream, with little hope or
expectation of catching any thing, was found, when taken up this
morning, to have hooked a very fine fish. Since the flood we had almost
ceased to think of fish, as we never had the least success in our trials.