Part I.

TO HIS EXCELLENCY LACHLAN MACQUARIE, ESQ.

MAJOR GENERAL IN THE ARMY,

AND CAPTAIN GENERAL AND GOVERNOR IN CHIEF IN AND OVER THE TERRITORY

OF NEW SOUTH WALES AND ITS DEPENDENCIES,

THE FOLLOWING JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION,

PERFORMED UNDER HIS ADMINISTRATION AND DIRECTION,

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS VERY OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,

JOHN OXLEY.

INTRODUCTION.

The colony had been established many years before any successful attempt

had been made to penetrate into the interior of the country, by crossing

the range of hills, known to the colonists as the Blue Mountains: these

mountains were considered as the boundary of the settlements westward,

the country beyond them being deemed inaccessible.

The year 1813 proving extremely dry, the grass was nearly all destroyed,

and the water failed; the horned cattle suffered severely from this

drought, and died in great numbers. It was at this period that three

gentlemen, Lieutenant Lawson, of the Royal Veteran Company, Messrs.

Blaxland, and William Wentworth, determined upon attempting a passage

across these mountains, in hopes of finding a country which would afford

support to their herds during this trying season.

They crossed the Nepean River at Emu Plains, and ascending the first

range of mountains, were entangled among gullies and deep ravines for a

considerable time, insomuch that they began to despair of ultimate

success. At length they were fortunate enough to find a main dividing

range, along the ridge of which they travelled, observing that it led

them westward. After suffering many hardships, their distinguished

perseverance was at length rewarded by the view of a country, which at

first sight promised them all they could wish.

Into this Land of Promise they descended by a steep mountain, which

Governor Macquarie has since named Mount York [Note: This mountain was

found to be 795 feet in perpendicular height above the vale of Clwydd.].

The valley [Note: Named by Governor Macquarie the Vale of Clwydd.] to

which it gave them access was covered with grass, and well watered by a

small stream running easterly, and which was subsequently found to fall

into the Nepean River. From Mount York they proceeded westerly eight or

ten miles, passing during the latter part of the way through an open

country, but broken into steep hills. Seeing that the stream before

mentioned as watering the valley ran easterly, it was evident they had

not yet crossed the ranges which it was supposed would give source to

waters falling westerly; they had however proceeded sufficiently far for

their purpose, and ascertained that no serious obstacles existed to a

farther progress westward.

Their provisions being nearly expended, they returned to Sydney, after

an absence of little more than a month; and the report of their

discoveries opened new prospects to the colonists, who had began to fear

that their narrow and confined limits would not long afford pasture and

subsistence for their greatly increasing flocks and herds.

His Excellency Governor Macquarie, with that promptitude which

distinguishes his character, resolved not to let slip so favourable an

opportunity of obtaining a farther knowledge of the interior. Mr. Evans,

the deputy surveyor, was directed to proceed With a party, and follow up

the discoveries already made. He crossed the Nepean River on the 20th of

November, 1813, and on the 26th arrived at the termination of Messrs.

Lawson, Blaxland, and Wentworth's journey. Proceeding westward, he

crossed a mountainous [Note: Since named Clarence Hilly Range.] broken

country, the grass of which was good, and the valleys well-watered, until

the 30th, when he came to a small stream, running westerly; this stream,

called by him the Fish River, he continued to trace until the 7th of

December, passing through a very fine country, adapted to every purpose

either of agriculture or grazing; when he met another stream coming from

the southward: this latter stream he named Campbell River, and when

joined with the Fish River, the united streams received the name of the

Macquarie River, in honour of his excellency the present governor of

New South Wales.

Mr. Evans continued to trace the Macquarie River until December the

18th, passing over rich tracts clear of timber, well-watered, and

offering every advantage which a country in its natural state can be

supposed to afford. During this excursion, Mr. Evans fell in with

abundance of kangaroos and emus, and the river abounded with fine

fish: he saw only six natives during the whole time of his absence,

viz. two women and four children, although on his return he observed many

fires in the neighbourhood of the mountains. On the 8th of January, 1814,

he returned to Emu Plains, having gone in the whole near one hundred

miles

in a direct line due west from the Nepean River.

From the report of Mr. Evans, Governor Macquarie was induced to believe

that a road might be opened for the whole distance already surveyed, and

was most anxious that the colony should reap as soon as possible the

advantages, which the discovery of such extensive and fertile tracts

seemed to open.

The ample means afforded for this purpose enabled Mr. Cox, to whose

superintendence this work was entrusted, to complete a road passable for

loaded carriages early in 1815. This road extended in length upwards of

one hundred miles, the first fifty of which passed along a narrow ridge

of the Blue Mountains, bounded on each side by deep ravines, and

precipitous rocks. The road which was cut down Mount York was a work of

considerable labour and magnitude, and reflected the highest credit

upon all employed in it. This important task being finished, the

governor resolved in person to visit a country of which so much had been

said, and to judge from actual observation how far the sanguine hopes

which had been entertained were likely to be realized; his excellency

therefore, accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie and his suite, set out from Emu

Plains on the 26th of April, 1815, and arrived on the 4th of May at a

small encampment (the site of which had been previously selected), on

Bathurst Plains, near the termination of Mr. Evans's journey. Governor

Macquarie having been pleased to publish for the information of the

colonists such observations on the country as he deemed necessary, I

shall not presume to add any thing to an account, which so clearly and

accurately describes all that could be interesting or beneficial to the

colonist and general inquirer.

I have therefore inserted in the Appendix the account published by the

Governor in the Sydney Gazette, of the 10th of June, 1815, as affording

the best and most authentic information on the subject. During the

Governor's stay at Bathurst, he despatched Mr. Evans, and a party with a

month's provisions, to explore the country to the south-west, and it is

the result of that journey which led to the expedition, the direction of

which was entrusted to my command.

The means which his excellency placed at my disposal were well

calculated to attain the object in view, and it is a matter of the most

sincere regret, that the nature and description of the country which we

passed through was for the most part such as to afford few interesting

objects of research or remark.

The botanical productions of the country have however in a great measure

been ascertained by Mr. Allan Cunningham, the King's botanist, who

accompanied the expedition.

With respect to the construction of the chart prefixed to this Journal,

it is thought proper to observe, that the situation of the principal

stations of Bathurst, and the depot on the Lachlan River, were

ascertained by celestial observations, and connected by a series of

triangles, commencing at the latter point, and closing at Bathurst. New

base lines were frequently measured, and any unavoidable errors which

might arise from the nature of the country were corrected at every proper

opportunity by observed latitudes; so that on the return of the

expedition to Bathurst, I had the satisfaction to find the connection of

the angles complete, the error in the whole survey not exceeding a mile

of longitude.

The instruments chiefly used were a small theodolite by Ramsden, and

Kater's pocket compass [Note: A most valuable instrument, combining all

the advantages of the circumferentor, without being so liable to be

damaged and put out of order by carriage.], with the addition of an

excellent sextant, pocket chronometer, and artificial horizon. I have

to lament that our mountain barometers were broken at an early stage

of the expedition; the height however of some principal points had been

previously obtained, and is marked on the chart; these in two instances

were verified by geometrical measurement, and the difference was found

to be too trilling to be noticed. The conveyance of such delicate

instruments is always attended with great risk, and in our case

peculiarly so, our means being only those of horseback. I am afraid

that a method of constructing those instruments, so as to place them

beyond the reach of injury by carriage, will always remain among the

desiderata of science. I have given to our thermometrical observations

the form of a chart, as affording the readiest view of the atmospherical

changes which took place during our journey. The winds and weather are

also more particularly noticed on the same sheet than in the narrative.

It may perhaps be not superfluous to mention, that it is the intention

of His Majesty's Government to follow the course of the Macquarie River,

and it is sanguinely expected that the result of the contemplated

expedition will be such as to leave no longer in doubt the true

character of the country comprising the interior of this vast island. It

would be as presumptuous as useless to speculate on the probable

termination of the Macquarie River, when a few months will (it is to be

hoped) decide the long disputed point, whether Australia, with a surface

nearly as extensive as Europe, is, from its geological formation,

destitute of rivers, either terminating in interior seas, or having

their estuaries on the coast.

J. O.

Sydney, New South Wales,

Dec. 11, 1817.

ERRATA: 12 items of errata, listed in the book at this point,

have been corrected in this eBook.

JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA--Part I

On the twenty-fourth of March I received the instructions of his

excellency the Governor to take charge of the expedition which had been

fitted out for the purpose of ascertaining the course of the Lachlan

River, and generally to prosecute the examination of the western

interior of New South Wales.

On the sixth of April I quitted Sydney, and after a pleasant journey

arrived at Bathurst on the fourteenth, and found that our provisions

and other necessary stores were in readiness at the depot on the

Lachlan River. We were detained at Bathurst by rainy unfavourable

weather until the nineteenth, when the morning proving fine, the BAT

horses, with the remainder of the provisions, baggage, and instruments,

were sent off, we intending to follow them the ensuing morning.

Bathurst had assumed a very different appearance since I first visited

it in the suite of his excellency the Governor in 1815. The industrious

hand of man had been busy in improving the beautiful works of nature; a

good substantial house for the superintendant had been erected, the

government grounds fenced in, and the stack yards showed that the

abundant produce of the last harvest had amply repaid the labour

bestowed on its culture. The fine healthy appearance of the flocks and

herds was a convincing proof how admirably adapted these extensive downs

and thinly wooded hills are for grazing, more particularly of sheep. The

mind dwelt with pleasure on the idea that at no very distant period

these secluded plains would be covered with flocks bearing the richest

fleeces, and contribute in no small degree to the prosperity of the

eastern settlements.

The soil, in the immediate neighbourhood of Bathurst, is for the first

six inches of a light, black, vegetable mould, lying on a stratum of

sand, about eighteen inches deep, but of a poor description, and mixed

with small stones, under which is a strong clay. The surface of the

hills is covered with small gravel, the soil light and sandy, with a

sub-soil of clay. The low flats on the immediate borders of the river

are evidently formed by washings from the hills and valleys deposited by

floods, and the overflowings of the watercourses.

Sunday, April 20.--Proceeded on our journey towards the Lachlan River.

At two o'clock we arrived at the head of Queen Charlotte's Valley,

passing through a fine open grazing country; the soil on the hills and

in the vale a light clayey loam, occasionally intermixed with sand and

gravel: the late rains had rendered the ground soft and boggy. The trees

were small and stunted, and thinly scattered over the hills, which

frequently closed in stony points on the valley. The rocks a coarse

granite.

Monday, April 21.--Our journey for the greater part of the way lay over

stony ridges, and for the last six miles over a country much wooded with

ill-grown gum and stringy bark trees (all of the eucalyptus genus); the

grass good, and in tolerable plenty, and much more so than the

appearance of the soil would seem to promise. At three o'clock, the

horses being very much fatigued, we stopped under the point of a rocky

hill for the evening.

April 22.--A clear and frosty morning. Last night was the coldest we had

yet experienced, the thermometer being at six o'clock as low as 26. We

felt the cold most severely, being far beyond what we had been

accustomed to on the coast; the difference of temperature in twelve

hours being upwards of twenty degrees of cold. Our route lay through a

dull uninteresting country, thickly covered with dwarf timber, daviesia,

etc. Passed under Mount Lachlan, a hill of very considerable height; a

stream of water runs north-westerly under its base. Turned off a little

from our track to the right, and ascended Mount Molle, whence there is a

beautiful and extensive prospect from the south by the west to the

north. The country (except the dividing range between the Lachlan and

Macquarie Rivers, which is very lofty and irregular) rising into gentle

hills, thinly timbered, with rich intervening valleys, through which

flow small streams of water. I think from Mount Molle, between the

points above mentioned, a distance of forty miles round may he seen; the

view to the west being lost in the blue haze of the horizon, no hills

appearing in that quarter. The Mount itself is a fine rich hill,

favourably situated for a commanding prospect; the valleys which

surround it are excellent land, well watered with running streams. We

descended its west side, and stopped for the night in the valley

beneath, on the banks of a small rivulet.

April 23.--A fine clear morning. At two o'clock we arrived at Limestone

Creek, passing through a beautiful picturesque country of low hills and

fine valleys well watered: the timber, as usual of diminutive growth,

and unfit for any useful purpose. The ridges of the higher eminences

were invariably stony, and about a mile and a half from the Creek, there

is a narrow slip of barren country covered with small slate stones: the

soil until then was on the sides of the hills of a fine vegetable mould,

the more level and lower grounds a hazel-coloured stiff loam, both

equally

covered with grass, particularly the anthistria. The timber standing

at wide intervals, without any brush or undergrowth, gave the country a

fine park-like appearance. I never saw a country better adapted for the

grazing of all kinds of stock than that we passed over this day. The

limestone, which is the first that has hitherto been discovered in

Australia, abounds in the valley where we halted; the sides and abrupt

projections of the hills being composed entirely of it, and worn by the

operation of time into a thousand whimsical shapes and forms. A small

stream runs through the valley, which in June 1815 was dry; the bottom

of this rivulet was covered with a variety of stones, but the bases of

the hills which projected into it, and from which the earth had been

washed, were of pure limestone of a bluish grey colour.

April 24.--A fine mild morning. A small piece of limestone which had

been put in the fire last night was found perfectly calcined into the

purest white lime. At eight o'clock proceeded on our journey, through a

very uninteresting but good grazing country: nature here seemed to have

assumed her tamest and most unvarying hue. The soil of the country we

passed through was generally excellent, but the timber was still as

useless as we had hitherto found it. We arrived about one o'clock at a

small pond of water, where it was necessary to stop, as there was no

other water nearer than the Lachlan River, which was distant about

fourteen miles.

April 25.--Our course for the first seven or eight miles was through a

level open country, the soil and grass indifferently good. We now

ascended a hill a little to the left of the road, for the purpose of

viewing the country through which the river ran: it appeared a perfect

plain encompassed by moderately high hills, except in the south-east

and west quarters, these being apparently the points whence and to which

the river flows. The whole country a forest of eucalypti, with

occasionally on the banks of the river a space clear of timber: there

was nothing either grand or interesting in the view from this hill,

neither did I see in any direction such high land as might be expected

to give source to a river of magnitude. When we quitted the hill, we

went west, to make the Lachlan River, passing for nearly six miles over

a perfect level, the land poor, and in places scrubby. At two o'clock

saw the river, which certainly did not disappoint me: it was evidently

much higher than usual, running a strong stream; the banks very steep,

but not so as to render the water inaccessible: the land on each side

quite flat, and thinly clothed with small trees; the soil a rich light

loam: higher points occasionally projected on the river, and on those

the soil was by no means so good. The largest trees were growing

immediately at the water's edge on both sides, and from their position

formed an arch over the river, obscuring it from observation, although

it was from thirty to forty yards across. At four o'clock we arrived at

the depot.

We had scarcely alighted from our horses, when natives were seen in

considerable numbers on the other side of the river. I went down

opposite to them, and after some little persuasion about twenty of them

swam across, having their galengar or stone hatchet in one hand, which

on their landing they threw at our feet, to show us that they were as

much divested of arms as ourselves. After staying a short time they were

presented with some kangaroo flesh, with which they re-crossed the

river, and kindled their fires. They were very stout and manly, well

featured, with long beards: there were a few cloaks among them made of

the opossum skin, and it was evident that some of the party had been at

Bathurst, from their making use of several English words, and from their

readily comprehending many of our questions.

April 26.--Fine clear warm weather. The natives were still on the

opposite bank, and five of them came over to us in the course of the

morning; but remained a very short time. During the last night a few

fine shrimps were caught; the soldiers stationed at the depot said they

had frequently taken them in considerable numbers. During the day

arranged the loads for the boats and horses, that they might be enabled

to set off early the next morning.

April 27.--Loaded the boats with as much of the salt provisions as they

could safely carry, and despatched them to wait at the first creek about

seven or eight miles down the river until the loaded horses came, and

then to assist in taking their loads over the creek; intending myself to

follow with the remainder of the baggage early to-morrow morning.

The observations which were made here placed the depot in lat. 33. 40.

S.,

and in long. 148. 21. E., the variation of the needle being 7. 47. E.

The barometrical observations, which had been regularly taken from Sydney

to this place, did not give us an elevation of more than six hundred feet

above the level of the sea; a circumstance which, considering our

distance

from the west coast, surprised me much.

The few words of which we were enabled to obtain the meaning from the

natives who occasionally visited its, being different from those used by

the natives on the east coast, it way perhaps be interesting to insert

them.

AUSTRALIAN. ENGLISH.

Nh-air, The eyebrows.

Whada, The ears.

Ulan-gar,) The head.

Nat-tang,)

Anany, The beard.

Morro, The nose.

Er-ra, The teeth.

Mill-a, The eyes.

Narra, The fingers.

Bulla-yega, The hair of the head.

Chu-ang, The mouth.

0-ro, The neck.

Bargar, The arms.

Ben-ing, The breast.

Bur-bing, The belly.

Mille-aar, The loins.

Dha-na, The thighs.

Wolm-ga, The knees.

Dhee-nany, The feet.

Dhu-a, The back.

Mor-aya, Bones worn in the cartilage of the nose.

Mada, Skins, with which they are clothed.

Wamb-aur, Scars, raised for ornament, or distinction,

on their bodies.

Gum-iil, Girdles worn round the body.

Un-elenar, One night.

Gow, Woman.

Mar-o-gu-la, Another tribe.

Mem-aa, A native man.

Wam-aa, A kind of hornet's-nest, which they eat.

Warenur, Fire.

Curr-eli, Timber, or trees.

Galu-nur, Thistles, the roots of which they eat.

Gulura, The moon.

Yandu, Sleep.

Galen-gar,)

Ori-al, ) Stone hatchets.

Ta-wi-uth,)

The above were all the words the meaning of which we could clearly

comprehend: the words used by the natives on the coast to express the

same objects have not the remotest resemblance to the above.

April 28.--Fine clear mild weather. Proceeded with the remainder of the

baggage to join the boats down the river; arrived at Lewis's Creek,

which, although nearly dry when crossed by Mr. Evans in 1815, is now a

considerable stream. The distance from the depot is about nine miles;

the country on both banks of the river low but good: the upper levels

would afford excellent grazing, but the soil is of inferior quality: the

points of the low hills end alternately on each side the river. The land

up both banks of Lewis's Creek is very rich, and covered with herbage.

The boats had come safely down the river, although the large boat

grounded

once; the river appears to me to be from three to five feet above its

usual level.

Several specimens of crystallized quartz were found on the adjoining

hills, also some small pieces of good iron ore.

April 29.--Proceeded on our journey down the river, directing the boats

to stop at the creek which terminated Mr. Evans's former journey. The

country through which we passed this day in every respect resembles the

tracts we have already gone over. The crowns and ridges of the hills are

uniformly stony and barren, ending as before alternately on each side of

the river; the greater proportion of good flat land lies on the south

side of the river; there are however very rich and fertile tracts on

this side. After riding about eight miles, we ascended a considerable

hill upon our right, from the top of which we could see to a considerable

distance; between the south-west and north-north-west, a very low level

tract lay west of us, and no hill whatever bounded the view in that

quarter. Three remarkable hummocks bore respectively S. 72. W.,

S. 51 1/2 W. and S. 34 1/2 W., within which range of bearing the country

was uniformly level, or rising into such low hills, as not to be

distinguished from the general surface. The tops of distant ranges could

be discerned over low hills in the north-west, whilst, from north by the

east to south, the country was broken into hill and valley. The whole of

this extensive scene was covered with eucalypti, whilst on the rocky

summits of the hills in the immediate neighbourhood a species of

callitris was eminently distinguished. From this extensive view I named

the hill Mount Prospect.

At five o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the place where the

horses had been directed to wait for the boats, but they had not

arrived; the distance is at least doubled by following the immediate

course of the stream, but I had calculated that its rapidity would make

up for the distance, and enable the boats to keep pace with the horses.

At six o'clock the boats arrived safe, the men having had a very

fatiguing row, and been obliged to clear the passage of fallen trees,

and other obstructions; so that we determined to give them some repose,

and halt here for the night. At half past eight o'clock proceeded down

the river, intending to stop at the termination of Mr. Evans's journey

in 1815, about five miles further, for the purpose of repairing the

small boat, which had sustained some slight damage in coming down the

river yesterday. I rode about three miles back into the country; the

callitris was here more frequent, though not of large growth; the soil

is not good. In returning to the river we came upon the creek which

terminated Mr. Evans's journey, down which we travelled until we came to

the river, about half a mile from which is a large shallow lagoon, full

of ducks, bustards, black swans and red-hills. At twelve o'clock the

horses arrived at the mouth of the creek, and the boats half an hour

afterwards. The banks of the creek were very steep, and it was three

o'clock before all the provisions were got over. The creek was named

Byrne's Creek, after one of the present party, who had accompanied Mr.

Evans in his former journey.

May 1.--The creek fell upwards of a foot during the night, by which some

of the articles in the large boat received damage. Commenced the survey

of the river from this point. The flats on both sides the river were

very extensive, and in general good; the same timber and grass as usual;

the stream was from thirty to forty yards broad on an average. There was

not even a hillock on which to ascend during this day's route, so that

our view was bounded by less than a mile on each side of the river.

Traces of the natives were observed, but no natives were seen. The boats

were much impeded by fallen timber: it was half past two o'clock when

they arrived at the place where I intended to halt, although we had only

gone between nine and ten miles.

The trees on the immediate banks of the river were very large and

ramified, but few of them were useful: another species of callitris was

seen to-day.

May 2.--Our journey this day was very fatiguing, the grass being nearly

breast high, thick, and entangled. The soil is tolerably good within a

mile and a half of the banks: I rode five or six miles out, in hopes of

finding some eminence on which to ascend, but was disappointed, the

country continuing a dead level, with extensive swamps, and barren

brushes. The timber, dwarf box, and gum trees (all eucalypti), with a

few cypresses and casuarinas, scattered here and there: few traces of

the natives were seen, and none recent. Upon the swamps were numerous

swans and other wild fowl. In the evening we caught nearly a hundred

weight of fine fish.

May 3.--Proceeded down the river. We passed over a very barren desolate

country, perfectly level, without even the slightest eminence, covered

with dwarf box-trees and scrubby bushes; towards the latter part of the

day a few small cypresses were seen. I think the other side of the river

is much the same. We have hitherto met with no water except at the

river, and a few shallow lagoons, which are evidently dry in summer. I

do not know how far this level extends north and south, but I cannot

estimate it at less than from ten to twelve miles on each side; but this

is mere conjecture, since for the last three days I have been unable to

see beyond a mile: I have, however, occasionally made excursions of

five or six miles, and never perceived any difference in the elevation

of the country. To-day the course of the river has been a little south

of west: its windings are very frequent and sudden, fully accounting for

the apparent heights of the floods, of which marks were observed about

thirty-six feet above the level of the stream. At six o'clock the boats

had not arrived; and as I had given directions on no account to attempt

to proceed after dark, I ceased to expect them this evening.

May 4.--As soon as it was light I sent two men up the river to search

for the boat: at nine o'clock one of them returned, having found it

about four miles back. It appeared that the large boat had got stoved

against a tree under water, and that the people were obliged to unload

and haul her on shore to undergo some repairs, which they had effected;

but the rain prevented them from paying her bottom. They expected to be

able to proceed in an hour or two, as the weather had begun to clear up.

It was fortunate that no damage had befallen any part of the boat's

lading. At twelve proceeded about three quarters of a mile down the

river, and from a small eminence half a mile north of it, an extensive

tract of clear country was seen, bearing N. 50. W., about two or three

miles from us, having a low range of hills bounding them in the

direction of S. 65. W. and N. 65. E. The river wound immediately under

the hill, taking a westerly direction as far as I went, which was about

three miles; its windings were very sudden, and its width and depth much

the same as before. The country, as far as I could see, was precisely

similar to that already passed over: the hills were slaty and barren,

with a few small cypresses: in fact, I have seen them grow on no other

spots so frequently as on those stony hills. The boats arrived about two

o'clock.

May 5.--Proceeded down the river, ascended the eminence mentioned

yesterday, and from the top of a cypress tree a very distant view of the

whole country was obtained: the opening through which the river

apparently runs bore S. 75 1/2 W.; the country to the south and

south-west extremely low. A range of hills, lying nearly east and west,

bounded the level tract on the other side of the river; these hills and

two or three detached hammocks excepted, there was nothing to break the

uniformity of the scene.

The country was in general poor, with partial tracts of better ground;

the hills were slaty, and covered as well as the levels with small

eucalypti, cypresses, and casuarinas. About a mile from this place we

fell in with a small tribe of natives, consisting of eight men; their

women we did not see. They did not appear any way alarmed at the sight

of us, but came boldly up: they were covered with cloaks made of opossum

skins; their faces daubed with a red and yellow pigment, with neatly

worked nets bound round their hair: the front tooth in the upper row was

wanting in them all: they were unarmed, having nothing with them but

their stone hatchets. It appeared from their conduct that they had

either seen or heard of white people before, and were anxious to depart,

accompanying the motion of going with a wave of their hand.

About three miles from our last night's halting-place we had to cross a

small creek, the banks of which were so steep that we were obliged to

unload the horses. I rode up the creek about three quarters of a mile,

and came upon those extensive plains before-mentioned; the soil of this

level appears a good loamy clay, but in some places very wet: it was far

too extensive to permit us to traverse much of it; we saw sufficient to

judge that the whole surface was similar to that we examined; it was

covered with a great variety of new plants, and its margin encircled by

a new species of acacia, which received the specific name of PENDULA,

from its resembling in habit the weeping willow. Low hills to the north

bounded this plain, whilst a slip of barren land, covered with small

trees and shrubs, lay between it and the river.

It appeared to me that the whole of these flats are occasionally

overflowed by the river, the water of which is forced up the creek

before-mentioned, and which again acts as a drain on the fall of the

water.

At four o'clock we halted for the evening, after a fatiguing day's

journey; the boats were obliged to cut their passage three or four

times, and the whole navigation was difficult and dangerous: the current

ran with much rapidity, and the channel seemed rather to contract than

widen. We were obliged to stop on a very barren desolate spot, with

little grass for the horses; but further on the country appeared even

worse. The south bank of the river (as far as I could judge) is

precisely similar to that which we are travelling down. The clear levels

examined to-day were named the Solway Flats. Many fish were caught here,

one of which weighed upwards of thirty pounds.

May 6.--Proceeded down the river. It is impossible to fancy a worse

country than the one we were now travelling over, intersected by swamps

and small lagoons in every direction; the soil a poor clay, and covered

with stunted useless timber. It was excessively fatiguing to the horses

which travelled along the banks of the river, as the rubus and

anthistiria

were so thickly intermingled, that they could scarcely force a passage.

After proceeding about eight miles, a bold rocky mount terminated on the

river, and broke the sameness which had so long wearied us: we ascended

this hill, which I named Mount Amyot, and from the summit had one of the

most extensive views that can be imagined. On the opposite side of the

river was another hill precisely similar to Mount Amyot, leaving a

passage between them for the river, and the immense tract of level

country to the eastward; this hill was named Mount Stuart. Vast plains

clear of timber lay on the south side of the river, and which, from our

having travelled on a level with them, it was impossible for us to

distinguish before. These plains I named Hamilton's Plains, and they

were bounded by hills of considerable elevation to the southward; whilst

the whole level country thus bounded was honoured with the designation

of Princess Charlotte's Crescent.

To the west of Mount Amyot the view was equally extensive, being bounded

only by the horizon; some high detached hills, rising like islands from

the ocean, broke, in some measure, the sameness of the prospect. I

estimated that in the west north-west I could see at least forty miles,

and in the south south-west as far; the view in other points being

slightly interrupted by low ranges of hills, rising occasionally to

points of considerable elevation: none of those elevated spots was

nearer than twenty-five or thirty miles, and considerable spaces of

clear ground could, by the assistance of the telescope, be distinguished,

interspersed amidst the ocean of trees whence those hills arise: a long

broken mountain, bearing W. 32 1/2. N., was named Mount Melville;

one W. 24. N. Mount Cunningham; and another, bearing S. 70. W. Mount

Maude. Smoke, arising from the fires of the wandering inhabitants of

these

desolate regions was seen in several quarters. At four o'clock we stopped

for the evening, about three miles west of Mount Amyot.

I have reason to believe that the whole of the tract named Princess

Charlotte's Crescent is at times drowned by the overflowing of the

river; the marks of flood were observed in every direction, and the

waters in the marshes and lagoons were all traced as being derived from

the

river. During a course of upwards of seventy miles not a single running

stream emptied itself into the river on either side; and I am forced to

conclude that in common seasons this whole tract is extremely badly

watered, and that it derives its principal if not only supply from the

river within the bounding ranges Of Princess Charlotte's Crescent. There

are doubtless many small eminences which might afford a retreat from the

inundations, but those which were observed by us were too trifling and

distant from each other to stand out distinct from the vast level

surface which the crescent presents to the view. The soil of the country

we passed over was a poor and cold clay; but there are many rich levels

which, could they be drained and defended from the inundations of the

river, would amply repay the cultivation. These flats are certainly not

adapted for cattle; the grass is too swampy, and the bushes, swamps, and

lagoons, are too thickly intermingled with the better portions to render

it either a safe or desirable grazing country. The timber is universally

bad and small; a few large misshapen gum trees on the immediate banks of

the river may be considered as exceptions. If however the country itself

is poor, the river is rich in the most excellent fish, procurable in the

utmost abundance. One man in less than an hour caught eighteen large

fish,

one of which was a curiosity from its immense size, and the beauty of its

colours. In shape and general form it most resembled a cod, but was

speckled over with brown, blue, and yellow spots, like a leopard's skin;

its gills and belly a clear white, the tail and fins a dark brown. It

weighed entire seventy pounds, and without the entrails sixty-six pounds:

it is somewhat singular that in none of these fish is any thing found

in the stomach, except occasionally a shrimp or two. The dimensions of

this fish were as follow:

Feet. Inches.

Length from the nose to the tail 3 5

Circumference round the shoulders 2 6

Fin to fin over the back 1 5

Circumference near the anus 1 9

Breadth of the tail 1 1 1/2

Circumference of the mouth opened 1 6

Depth of the swallow 1 foot.

Most of the other fish taken this evening weighed from fifteen to thirty

pounds each, and were of the same kind as the above.

May 7.--A fine clear frosty morning. The horses having been much

fatigued by the two last days' journey, I determined to halt to-day

instead of Saturday, as the grass was good, which is more than could be

said of it for some days past. Observed the latitude to be 33. 22. 59. S.

May 8.--Proceeded down the river. Our general course was westerly, and

the country, though equally level with any we had passed, improved in

the quality of the soil, which, during the greater part of to-day's

route, was a good vegetable mould, the land thickly covered with small

acacia and dwarf trees. On the south side of the river it was apparently

the same; and the whole we passed over bore evident marks of being

subject to inundations.

The banks of the river were, I think, much lower, not exceeding fifteen

or twenty feet high, and they were rather clearer of timber than before.

The casuarina, which used to line the banks, was now seldom seen, the

acacia pendula seeming to take its place. We stopped for the night on a

plain of good land, flooded, but clear of timber: large flocks of emus

were feeding on it, and we were fortunate enough to kill a very large

one after a fine chase. At three o'clock, the boats not having arrived,

I sent a man back to look for them; at eight he returned, having found

them about six miles up the river, unable to proceed until morning,

having met with continual interruptions from fallen trees. These

impediments in the navigation of the river obstruct our progress very

materially, and its windings continue so great and frequent, that the

distance travelled by land is nearly trebled by water.

May 9.--The boats not having arrived at ten o'clock, Mr. Evans proceeded

with the BAT horses another stage down the river. Mr. Cunningham and I

waited to bring up the boats, which shortly afterwards came in sight. We

proceeded to join the horses, which we did about five o'clock, the boats

having gone in that time nearly thirty-six miles, although the distance

from the last station did not exceed seven in a direct line.

The country we had passed through during this day's route was extremely

low, consisting of extensive plains divided by lines of small trees:

the banks of the river, and the deep bights formed by the irregularity

of its course, were covered with acacia bushes and dwarf trees. The

river, at the spot where we stopped, wound along the edge of an

extensive low plain, being at least six miles long and three or four

broad; these I called Field's Plains, after the judge of the supreme

court of this territory; they are the same which we saw from the top of

Mount Amyot. The soil of these plains is a light clayey loam, very wet

in many places; they were fringed round with that beautiful tree, the

acacia pendula, which here seems to perform the part of the willow in

Europe; the cypresses were also more frequent, and the banks of the

river much lower than even those we passed yesterday. I cannot help

thinking that the whole of this extensive region has been at some time

or other under water, and that the present river is the drain by which

the waters have been conveyed to lower grounds. It is evident that even

now the plains (on those parts clear of trees) are frequently under

water, and that at very high floods the wooded lands are so too, for it

is almost impossible to distinguish any difference in their elevation;

but the wooded lands, from being actually higher, seem to have given

time for the growth of the diminutive timber with which they are

covered, whereas the lower plains are too frequently covered to give

time for such growth.

May 10.--The horses having strayed in the night, and it being nearly

noon before they were found, I determined to make this a halting day.

These plains are much more extensive than I supposed yesterday, and many

new plants were found on them. The river rose upwards of a foot during

the night, and still continues to rise; a circumstance which appears

very singular to me, there having been no rains of any magnitude for the

last five weeks, and none at all for the last ten days. We are also

certain that no waters fall into it or join it easterly for nearly one

hundred and fifty miles. This rise must therefore be occasioned by heavy

rains in the mountains, whence the river derives its source; but it is

not the less singular, that during its whole course, as far as it is

hitherto known, it does not receive a single tributary stream. Observed

the latitude 33. 16. 33. S.

May 11.--The river rose about four feet during the night, and still

continues to rise. Set forward on our journey down the river. About four

miles and a half from this morning's station. the river began to wash

the immediate edge of the plain, and so continued to do all along. My

astonishment was extreme at finding the banks of the river not more than

six feet from the water: it at once confirmed my supposition that the

whole of this extensive country is frequently inundated; the river was

here about thirty yards broad. Mount Cunningham was at this time distant

about two miles, and Mount Melville four miles; the plains winding

immediately under the base of each. At twelve o'clock ascended the south

end of Mount Cunningham, a small branch of the river running close under

it. From this elevation our view was very extensive in every direction,

particularly in the west quarter. The whole country in that direction

was so low, that it might not improperly be termed a swamp, the spaces

which were bare of trees being more constantly under water than those

where they grew. A remarkable peaked hill bearing W. 27 1/4. N. was

named Hurd's Peak [Note: After Captain Hurd, Hydrographer to the

Admiralty.], and a lofty hummock S. 83 1/2. W, Mount Meyrick: these were

the only elevations of any consequence in the western direction. To the

north, low ranges of rocky hills bounded the swamps, which on the south

had a similar boundary, except that occasionally a bolder rocky

projection would obtrude itself on the flat.

On descending from the hill, we proceeded to the point where the

north-west arm is separated from the main branch, but apparently to join

it in water, bearing from Mount Cunningham W. 40. N.: on arriving there

we found the boats and horses. The crew of the former reported, that an

equally considerable branch of the river, with that down which they had

come, had turned off to the south-west, about two miles below the place

where we stopped last night. After directing the horses and baggage to

be got over the north-west arm, I returned to examine the branch passed

by the boats, and found it at least as considerable as that which we

were pursuing. I am in hopes that when again joined, the width and depth

of the river will be considerably increased. At half past four returned

to the tents on the north-west arm. The river (from whatever cause) was

still rising, and no part of the banks was more than four feet above

the level of the water. I consider that the river may have from eight to

ten feet more water in it than usual: its present average depth is about

eighteen feet.

The soil of these extensive plains, designated Field's Plains, is for

the most part extremely rich, as indeed might be expected, from the

deposition of the quantities of vegetable matter that must take place in

periods of flood. The plains are in some places even lower than the

ground forming the immediate bank of the river, very soft, and difficult

for loaded horses to pass over. If we had been so unfortunate as to have

had a rainy season, it would have been utterly impossible to have come

thus far by land. The ranges of hills are unconnected, and are rocky and

barren; the swamps for the most part surrounding them. Mount Cunningham

is a lofty rocky hill, about a mile and a half long, composed of granite

rock, but entirely surrounded by low swampy ground.

Here we were so unfortunate as to find the barometer broken, the horse

which carried the instruments having thrown his load in passing the

swamps: every precaution had been taken in the packing to prevent such

an accident, which was the more to be regretted, as it interrupted a

chain of observations by which I hoped to ascertain the height of the

country with tolerable accuracy. The last observations that were made,

reduced to this place, gave us an elevation of not more than five

hundred feet above the sea, or about a hundred feet lower than the

country at the depot.

Since the river has been swollen, the fish have eluded us, none having

been caught since yesterday morning. Two black swans were however shot

on the river. Our present situation is by no means enviable: in the

first place, there is every chance that the river may be lost in a

multitude of branches, among those marshy flats, and farther navigation

thus rendered impossible; and in the second, a rise of four feet in the

river would sweep us all away, since we have not the smallest eminence

to retreat to. Should the river lead through to the westward, and be

afterwards joined by the branches we have passed, it may become

something more interesting and encouraging: a wet or even a partially

rainy season will, in my judgment, preclude us from returning by our

present route, more especially if these low countries continue for any

distance.

I am by no means surprised at the paucity of natives that have been

seen: it would be quite impossible in wet seasons to inhabit these

marshes, and equally so for them to retreat in times of flood. Their

fires are universally observed near the higher grounds, and no traces of

any thing like a permanent camp has hitherto been seen; but in many

places

on the banks quantities of pearl muscle-shells were found near the

remains

of fires. That large species of bittern, known on the east-coast by the

local name of Native Companions, I believe from the circumstance of their

being always seen in pairs, was observed, on the flats, of very large

size, exceeding six feet in height: they were so shy that we were unable

to shoot any.

May 12.--The fine weather still continues to favour us. The river rose

in the course of the night upwards of a foot. It is a probable

supposition that the natives, warned by experience of these dangerous

flats, rather choose to seek a more precarious, but more safe

subsistence in the mountainous and rocky ridges which are occasionally

to be met with. The river and lagoons abound with fish and fowl, and it

is scarcely reasonable to suppose that the natives would not avail

themselves of such store of food, if the danger of procuring it did not

counterbalance the advantages they might otherwise derive from such

abundance.

About three quarters of a mile farther westward we had to cross another

small arm of the river, running to the northward, which although now

full, is, I should think, dry when the river is at its usual level. It

is probable that this and the one which we first crossed join each other

a few miles farther to the westward, and then both united fall into the

stream which gave them existence. We had scarcely proceeded a mile from

the last branch, before it became evident that it would be impossible to

advance farther in the direction in which we were travelling. The stream

here overflowed both banks, and its course was lost among marshes: its

channel not being distinguishable from the surrounding waters.

Observing an eminence about half a mile from the south side, we crossed

over the horses and baggage at a Place where the water was level with

the banks, and which when within its usual channel did not exceed thirty

or forty feet in width, its depth even now being only twelve feet.

We ascended the hill, and had the mortification to perceive the

termination of our research, at least down this branch of the river: the

whole country from the west north-west round to north was either a

complete marsh or lay under water, and this for a distance of

twenty-five or thirty miles, in those directions; to the south and

south-west the country appeared more elevated, but low marshy grounds

lay between us and it, which rendered it impossible for us to proceed

thither from our present situation. I therefore determined to return

back to the place where the two branches of the principal river

separated, and follow the south-west branch as far as it should be

navigable; our fears were however stronger than our hopes, lest it

would end in a similar manner to the one we had already traced, until it

became no longer navigable for boats.

In pursuance of this intention we descended the hill, which was named

Farewell Hill, from its being the termination of our journey in a

north-west direction at least for the present, and proceeded up the

south bank of the stream. We were able to reach only a short distance

from the spot where we stopped last night, having been obliged to unload

the horses no less than four times in the course of the day, added to

which, the travelling loaded through those dreadful marshes had

completely exhausted them: my own horse, in searching for a better

track, was nearly lost, and it consumed four hours to advance scarcely

half a mile.

My disappointment at the interruption of our labours in this quarter was

extreme, and what was worse, no flattering prospect appeared of our

succeeding better in the examination of the south-west branch. I was

however determined to see the present end of the river in all its

branches, before I should finally quit it, in furtherance of the other

objects of the expedition.

May 13.--Returned to the point whence the river separates into two

branches; intending first to descend the south-west branch for some

distance before the boats and baggage should move down, being unwilling

the horses should undergo an useless fatigue in traversing such marshy

ground, unless the branch should prove of sufficient magnitude to take

us a considerable distance; conceiving it an object of the first

importance that the horses should start fresh, if I should find it

necessary to quit the river at this point of the coast.

May 14.--This branch of the river has fallen about a foot. Having

directed the casks in the boats to be prepared for slinging on the

horses, and the tools and arms to be put in order preparatory to leaving

the river, I proceeded to examine the branch. After going about four

miles down, it took a similar direction (north-westerly) to that which

we had previously traced. The banks on both sides were a mere marsh, and

about six miles down, a small arm from it supplied the marshes between

this and the north-west branch. The fall of the country from the

south-east to the north-west was very remarkable; the water in the

branch was here nearly level with the banks, and was narrowed to a

width of not more than twenty feet. Finding that it would be equally as

impracticable to follow this branch as the other, I returned and

commenced preparations for setting out for the coast, which I purpose

not to do until Sunday, in order that the horses may be refreshed, as

they will at first be most heavily laden.

My present intention is to take a south-west direction for Cape

Northumberland, since should any river be formed from those marshes,

which is extremely probable, and fall into the sea between Spencer's

Gulf and Cape Otway, this course will intersect it, and no river or

stream can arise from these swamps without being discovered. The body of

water now running in both the principal branches is very considerable,

fully sufficient to have constituted a river of magnitude, if it had

constantly maintained such a supply of water, and had not become

separated into branches, and lost among the immense marshes of this

desolate and barren country, which seems here to form a vast concavity

to receive them. It is impossible to arrive at any certain opinion as to

what finally becomes of these waters, but I think it probable, from the

appearance of the country, and its being nearly on a level with the sea,

that they are partly absorbed by the soil, and the remainder lost by

evaporation.

May 15.--Mr. Cunningham made an excursion under Mount Melville, and

found the country in that direction as full of stagnant water as to the

north-west. Some tracts rather more raised above the usual level were

barren, and covered with acacia scrubs. The natives had been recently

under Mount Melville, perhaps to the number of a dozen: abundance of

large pearl muscle-shells was found about their deserted fireplaces, but

these shells had been apparently some months out of water.

May 16.--Felled a tree of the acacia pendula, the wood extremely hard

and beautiful; a black resinous juice exuded from the heart, which much

resembled the black part of the lignum vitae. Our observations placed

this spot in latitude 33. 15. 34. S.; longitude 147. 16. E. and the

variation of the compass 7. 0. 8. E.

May 17.--After reducing our luggage as much as possible, we sent every

thing down the branch about two miles, and landed on the south shore;

got every thing in readiness for proceeding on our journey to-morrow;

hauled up the boats on the south bank, and secured them, together with

such heavy articles as we could not take with us. The provisions

occupied our whole fourteen horses, including my own, and each will

still be very heavily laden.

May 18.--At nine o'clock we commenced our journey towards the coast; at

three stopped within four miles of Mount Maude, on a dry creek, with

occasional pools of very indifferent water. The country through which we

passed from the branch was for the first three miles very low and wet,

with large lagoons of water. During the latter part of the journey the

country was more elevated though still level, the soil light and rotten,

and overrun with the acacia pendula. The horses being very heavily laden

fell repeatedly during the early part of the day. Our course was nearly

south-west, and we performed about ten miles.

May 19.--At two miles passed over a low rocky range connected with Mount

Maude: the remainder of our day's journey (nearly twelve miles) lay

chiefly through a barren level country, the ground rather studded than

covered with grass, and that only in patches, by far the greater part

producing no grass at all. The trees were chiefly cypresses, a new

species of staculia, together with scrubs of the acacia pendula. The

soil a light red sand, the lower levels being stronger and more clayey.

We did not meet with any water, and were obliged to stop in the middle

of an acacia brush, the horses being too much fatigued to proceed

farther, and as the country had been lately burnt, the grass was a

little better than usual. At four o'clock sent two men to search for

water, and in about half an hour they returned, having found several

small ponds of good water about three quarters of a mile to the

south-west: the swamp appeared to extend to the northward a considerable

distance. Several native huts were on the edge of one of the ponds, but

they had not been recently inhabited.

May 20.--Proceeded forward south-west eleven miles through a most barren

desolate country, the soil a light red sand, literally parched up with

drought, there being no appearance of rain having fallen for several

months. The country through which we passed being a perfect plain

overrun with acacia scrubs, we could not see in any direction above a

quarter of a mile; I therefore halted at two o'clock on purpose to gain

time to find water before sunset, as we had seen no other signs of any

on our route than a few dry pits. It is impossible to imagine a more

desolate region; and the uncertainty we are in, whilst traversing it, of

finding water, adds to the melancholy feelings which the silence and

solitude of such wastes is calculated to inspire.

The search for water was unsuccessful, about three gallons of muddy

liquid being all that could be procured: our horses and dogs, I am

afraid, were the greatest sufferers.

May 21.--The water was so extremely bad that, pressed as we were by

thirst, we could scarcely even by twice boiling it render it drinkable.

After travelling ten or eleven miles through a country equally barren

and destitute with that of yesterday, without meeting with the least

appearance of water, and the horses being completely worn out, I

determined to halt on a small patch of burnt grass; two of the horses

had fallen several times under their loads, and nothing but the

evenness of the road enabled us to reach thus far. The same level plain

extended on all sides, and our view was confined to the scrubby brush

around us. A small hollow lying across our track, I sent a man on

horseback to trace it, in hopes it might lead to water: he returned

about four o'clock with the joyful news that he had found water in a

large swamp about five miles to the north-west: he also saw a native,

who however ran too swiftly to allow him to come up with him. This was

the first living creature of any kind we had seen since we quitted the

river. Both the kangaroo and emu seem to have deserted these plains for

other parts of the country better watered, and affording them more food.

The horses being utterly unable to proceed without rest, I determined to

remain here to-morrow to refresh them.

May 22.--The nights cold and frosty, the days warm and clear: I think it

is very evident that the altitude of the country declines in a

remarkable manner to the north-west; from the south-east to the

south-west it appears nearly of the same elevation; and in travelling we

appear to be going along an inclined plane, the lowest edges being from

west to north. I went about five miles to the north-west to the place

whence the water was procured; the country poor, and as barren as can

well be imagined; the soil a light red sand, acacia scrubs, small

box-trees, and a few miserable cypresses.

May 23.--Our route lay through a country equally bad, if not worse, than

any which we had passed the preceding days: in some places it was

difficult for the horses to force a passage through the brush;

occasionally low stony ridges intervened, which, when viewed from higher

eminences, were not to be detected from the plain out of which they

rose. The soil was alternately a sterile sand and a hardened clay,

without grass of any description: the country appeared to form the

bottom of a dry morass, and I am convinced if the weather had not been

dry for a considerable time, travelling would have been impossible.

After proceeding ten miles we were obliged to stop, the horses being

unable to go further. We had seen no signs of water during our route,

but stopping at a stony water-course we were in hopes of finding a

sufficiency to supply our wants, and on a hill at the end of it, about a

quarter of a mile to the westward, water was found.

May 24.--A day of rest and preparation. The country seems to rise

hereabouts and to be more broken, the ridges stony: the dwarf timber and

brush very thick. In searching for the horses this morning several

kangaroos and emus were seen, also the huts of a tribe of natives

recently inhabited.

May 25.--The horses much refreshed, except one which is unable to carry

any thing; his load was therefore obliged to be distributed among the

rest, already too heavily laden. At nine o'clock set forward on our

journey. At two we arrived at the base of a hill of considerable

magnitude, terminating westward in an abrupt perpendicular rock

from two hundred and fifty to three hundred feet high. The country we

passed over was of the most miserable description; the last eight miles

without a blade of grass. The acacia brushes grow generally on a hard

and clayey soil evidently frequently covered with water, and I consider

that these plains or brushes are swamps or morasses in wet weather,

since they must receive all the water from the low ranges with which

they are generally circumscribed. It is a remarkable feature in the

hills of this country that their terminations are generally

perpendicular westward, rising from the lower grounds round from

south-west to north-west very gradually; their terminating rocky bluffs

are usually two or three hundred feet high. I include in these

observations not only the single detached hills, but the points of the

ranges. This hill was named Mount Aiton. The country having been

recently burnt, some good grass was found for the horses a little to the

south-west. We therefore stopped for the night, and ascended the face of

the mount for the purpose of looking around: a very large brown speckled

snake was killed about half way up, which, in the absence of fresh

provisions, was afterwards eaten by some of the party. On arriving at

the summit we had an extensive prospect in every direction; the country

was most generally level, but rose occasionally into gentle eminences

bounded by distant low ranges from the south south-west to the

north-west. The most considerable of these ranges were named PEEL'S

RANGE, and GOULBURN'S RANGE: a very lofty hill, distant at least seventy

miles, was named MOUNT GRANARD. Interspersed through the country,

bounded by those ranges, were several large tracts entirely devoid of

wood; these are however, I fear, only a repetition of the acacia plains

of which we had lately been but too abundantly favoured. From

south-west by south round to north-east were some low broken hills, with

some to the east-south-east of greater magnitude; but their distance was

so great as to appear but faintly in the horizon. Upon the whole the

country appeared more open and somewhat better, particularly in the

immediate vicinity of our station to the south-west. There were not the

smallest signs of any stream, neither is-ere there any fires in the

direction we had to take. Three or four fires were seen in the

north-west, and recent traces of the natives were discovered near our

tents. The inhabitants of these wilds must be very few, and I think it

impossible for more than a family to subsist together; a greater number

would only starve each other: indeed their deserted fires and camps

which we occasionally saw, never appeared to have been occupied by more

than six or eight persons. The scarcity of food must also prevent the

raising of many children, from the absolute impossibility of supporting

them until of an age to provide for themselves. We have seen so few

animals, either kangaroo or emu, and the country appears so little

capable of maintaining these animals, that the means of the natives in

procuring food must be precarious indeed. We found just a sufficiency of

water to answer our purpose in a drain from the Mount; our dogs are,

however, in a wretched condition for want of food.

May 26.--The horses having strayed in the night, every man was employed

in searching for them. In passing through those barren brushes

yesterday, a great quantity of small iron-stones was picked up, from the

size of a large pea to a hen's-egg, all nearly round, being washed into

heaps by the waters, which in time of rain sweep over those flats. The

front of Mount Aiton was found to decline about fifteen degrees from the

perpendicular; the rocks were composed of a hard sandy free-stone. It

was eight o'clock in the evening before any of the people returned, and

then only two men came back with two horses, being all they were able to

find: the other three men are still absent, but they had found the track

of the other horses before these men left them. The two horses were

discovered in the midst of a thick brush, entangled among creeping

plants and unable to get further: they must have strayed in search of

water, the water at this place not being sufficient for them all. The

animals were all spencilled, but such is the scarcity of both water and

grass, that they will wander in search of each.

The natives have been reconnoitring us: we have several times heard

them, but have been unable to see them. At sunset their fires were

seen about two miles to the south-west.

May 27.--At day-light, despatched the other two men and horses to the

assistance of the rest, who remained out all night.

A native was seen about half a mile from our fires: the dogs attacked

him, and when called off, he ran away shouting most lustily; he was a

very stout man, at least six feet high, entirely naked, with a long

bushy beard: he had no arms of any kind. At two o'clock, two of the men

who had been out all night returned, after an unsuccessful search,

leaving three more out to pursue it in every possible direction. Water

is evidently the reason of their straying, as several patches of burnt

grass have been passed by them, and they would naturally return to the

place where they last found it, if they could find none nearer.

At sunset the men returned with nine of the horses, five being still

missing: they were found ten miles on the road back, and near the place

where they fed on the 24th.

May 28.--At daylight despatched four men on horseback to resume the

search for the missing horses, taking with them two days' provisions.

May 29.--At four o'clock in the afternoon the men returned, still

unsuccessful.

May 30.--At seven o'clock I proceeded to the north-east with two men,

whilst Mr. Evans went to the north-west. At ten I was fortunate enough to

fall in with the horses about eight miles from our camp; returned with

them, and prepared every thing for setting forward to-morrow morning. In

one of the brushes an emu's nest was found, containing ten eggs; our

dogs also killed two small birds. Mr. Evans returned about three

o'clock, having seen nothing remarkable: the country was very thick and

brushy, and he was much impeded by creeping vines.

Mr. Cunningham here planted the seeds of quinces, and the stones of

peach and apricot trees.

May 31.--Fine weather as usual, and at nine o'clock we set off with

renewed hopes and spirits. Our first nine miles afforded excellent

travelling through an open country of very indifferent soil. The trees

thin and chiefly cypress, with occasionally a large sterculia, but no

water whatever: at the ninth mile we entered a very thick eucalyptus

brush, overrun with creepers and prickly acacia bushes. We continued

forcing our way through this desert until sunset, when, finding no hopes

of getting through it before dark, we halted in the midst of it, having

travelled in the whole nearly twenty miles, and for the last mile been

obliged to cut our way with our tomahawks.

Both men and horses were quite knocked up, and our embarrassment was

heightened by the want of water for ourselves and them, as this desert

did not hold out the slightest hope of finding any. No herbage of any

kind grew on this abandoned plain, being a fine red sand, which almost

blinded us with its dust. It was with some little hesitation that we

affixed a name to this brush; but at length nothing occurred to us more

expressive of its aspect than EURYALEAN. This was the first night which

we had passed absolutely without water.

June 1.--A cold frosty morning. The weather during the might changed

from very mild and pleasant to extreme cold; the thermometer varying

24. At daylight we loaded the horses and set forward to get out of this

scrub, and endeavour to procure water and grass for the horses, which

we were obliged to tie to bushes, to prevent them from straying. After

going about two miles farther we cleared the thickest of it: but the

country was only more open, and not in any degree more fertile. We

proceeded on towards the south-east end of Peel's range until twelve

o'clock, when, having gone nearly eleven miles, the horses were unable

to proceed farther with their loads. There was nothing left for us but

to unload them, and separate in every direction in search of that most

precious of elements, without tasting a drop of which both men and

horses had now existed nearly thirty-six hours.

Water was found in three holes in the side of Peel's range sufficient

for all our necessities, and a most grateful relief it proved,

particularly to the poor horses, who were nearly famished for the want

of it: one of the best of our animals was so exhausted that it was with

some difficulty he could be taken to the water. I wish the grass had

proved equally good, but there is nothing for them but dead wire-grass

(IRA). We saw no game, with the exception of three or four kangaroo

rats: many beautiful small parrots were observed; and, barren as the

scrub appeared to us, yet our botanists reaped an excellent harvest

here; nothing being more true than that the most beautiful plants and

shrubs flourish best where no grass or other herbage will grow.

June 2.--Fine and clear as usual, the nights cold. One of our best

horses, mentioned yesterday as having fallen repeatedly under his load,

was this morning extremely ill, having entirely lost the use of his

hind quarters. Finding that he was quite unable to accompany us, and in

fact unfit to do any more work, it was with extreme reluctance that I

caused him to be shot, since it would have been no mercy to suffer him

to linger in his present miserable condition. Observations were taken to

ascertain our situation, and they placed us lat. 34. 8. 8. S.,

long. 146.03. E., the variation of the compass being 7. 18. E.

The hills to the southward of us are curiously composed of pudding-stone

in very large masses, the lower stratum being a coarse granite

intermingled with pieces of quartz, and a variety of other stones.

June 3.--Set forward on our route, passing over a rugged, barren, and

rocky country for about four miles and a half, when we ascended a hill

upon our right which promised a view in all directions. To the

southward, south-west, and even west, the country was a perfect plain,

interspersed with more of those dreadful scrubs which we had passed

through. In coming from Mount Aiton to the south-east were some low

ranges, with a level barren country between us and them; this hill was

named Mount Caley, and the termination of Peel's range to the southward,

a lofty rocky hill, was called Mount Brogden. On descending the hill, I

had the mortification to find that one of the horses, who had hitherto

performed well, now sunk under his load, and was unable to proceed

farther: in short, all of them appeared so debilitated, that the utmost

we could promise ourselves was their proceeding three or four miles

farther in search of grass and water. Directing the man to stay by his

load, we proceeded towards some burnt grass which had been seen from

Mount Caley, and after going about four miles farther we stopped upon

it. As the ultimate success of the expedition so entirely depended upon

the capability of the horses to perform the journey, it was judged

advisable that they should have two or three days rest before we

attempted to penetrate farther; and as we were now on a spot that at

least afforded them a mouthful of fresh wire-grass, I determined, if

water should be found, to remain here until Friday morning.

The country is so extremely impracticable, and so utterly destitute of

the means of affording subsistence to either man or beast; water is so

precarious, and when found is only the contents of small muddy holes,

which under different circumstances would be rejected equally by horses

and by men, that I much fear we shall not be able to proceed much

further; but my mind is made up to persevere until the last horse fails

us, keeping that course which, although inclining to the westward, will

bring us out upon the coast upon a nearer line than Cape Northumberland,

which I intended to steer for when we quitted the Lachlan River.

Sent back assistance to the man and horse left under Mount Caley, and at

eight o'clock they returned.

After searching in every direction, no water was found, except in a

small hole evidently dug by the natives under Mount Brogden, and

containing scarcely sufficient for the people.

June 4.--Weather as usual fine and clear, which is the greatest comfort

we enjoy in these deserts, abandoned as they seem to be by every living

creature capable of getting out of them. I was obliged to send the

horses back to our former halting-place for water, a distance of near

eight miles: this is terrible for the horses, who are in general

extremely reduced; but two in particular cannot, I think, endure this

miserable existence much longer.

At five o'clock, two men, whom I had sent to explore the country to the

south-west and see if any water could be found, returned, after

proceeding six or seven miles: they found it impossible to go any

farther in that direction or even south, from the thick brushes that

intersected their course on every side; and no water (nor in fact the

least sign of any) was discovered either by them, or by those who were

sent in search of it nearer to our little camp.

No other trace of inhabitants (besides the well from which we derive our

supply of water) has hitherto been seen: no game of any kind, nor grass

to support any, have resulted from the various routes and observations

of the different persons who were employed for that purpose during the

day. I almost despair of finding any, for the country being perfectly

level (some few elevated stations excepted), and the soil a deep loose

red sand, the rain which falls must be immediately absorbed, and indeed

it is quite impossible that water should remain on the surface of the

land which we have travelled over since we have left the river.

At the period we quitted the river I considered our height above the

level of the sea to be about five hundred feet, an elevation too

trifling to afford a hope that any streams could rise in these regions

and flow thence into the sea. In traversing these flats, the declivity,

when it could be observed, was always towards the west and north-west,

obliging me to believe that either the country continued a desert of

sand as at present, or that its westerly inclination would cause all

that part of it to consist of marshes and swamps. Since quitting the

river we have not enjoyed what under any other circumstances would be

called drinkable water; what was found being merely the contents of

shallow mud holes, in the bottom of acacia swamps, over which the

dryness of the season alone enabled us to travel. We have uniformly been

obliged to strain our water before we drank it, and its taste, from the

decayed vegetable matter it contained, was sour and unpleasant.

June 5.--A clear cold frosty morning: sent the horses to the watering

place: if it be any way possible to get them on, it is my intention to

proceed to-morrow morning, as it is almost as much labour to them to go

for water as it would be to perform a short day's journey.

From every thing I can see of the country to the south-west, it appears,

upon the most mature deliberation, highly imprudent to persevere longer

in that direction, as the consequences to the horses of want of water

and grass might be most serious; and we are well assured that within

forty miles on that point the country is the same as before passed over.

In adopting a north-westerly course, it is my intention to be entirely

guided by the possibility of procuring subsistence for the horses, that

being the main point on which all our ulterior proceedings must hinge.

It is however to be expected that as the country is certainly lower to

the west and north-west than from south-east to south-west, there is a

greater probability of finding water in this latter direction. In our

present perplexing situation, however, it is impossible to lay down any

fixed plan, as (be it what it may) circumstances after all must guide us.

Our horses are unable to go more than eight or ten miles a day, but even

then they must be assured of finding food, of which, in these deserts,

the chances are against the existence.

Yesterday, being the King's birthday, Mr. Cunningham planted under Mount

Brogden acorns, peach and apricot-stones, and quince-seeds, with the

hope rather than the expectation that they would grow and serve to

commemorate the day and situation, should these desolate plains be ever

again visited by civilized man, of which, however, I think there is very

little probability.

Our observation placed the situation of the tent in lat. 34. 13. 33. S.,

long. 146. E.; the variation of the compass 8. 08. E.

June 6.--A mild pleasant morning: set forward on our journey to the

westward and north-west, in hopes of finding a better country: at two

o'clock halted about two miles from Peel's range, after going about

eight miles through a very thick cypress scrub; the country equally bad

as on any of the foregoing days. We saw no signs of water during our

route: the whole country seems burnt up with long continued drought; no

traces of natives, or any game seen.

After two hours' search a small hole of water was found at the foot of

the range, sufficient for the horses, and in a hole in the rocks a

little clearer was procured for ourselves.

June 7.--Set forward to the north-west, the horses being a little

fresher than for some days past. Halted at four o'clock, having gone ten

miles through a country which, for barrenness and desolation, can I

think have no equal; it was a continued scrub, and where there was

timber it chiefly consisted of small cypress: we saw no water as usual,

but stopped on some burnt grass near the base of a low range of stony

hills west of Peel's range, from which we are distant eight or ten

miles. These ranges abound with native dogs; their howlings are

incessant, day as well as night: as we saw no game, their principal

prey must be rats, which have almost undermined this loose sandy

country.

As we had brought a small keg of water with us, we did not on this

occasion suffer absolute want: we hope that the instinct of the horses

would lead them to water in the course of the night--but we were too

sanguine.

Our spirits were not a little depressed by the desolation and want that

seemed to reign around us: the scene was never varied, except from bad

to worse. However, the scarcity of water and grass for the horses are

our greatest real privations, for the temperature is mild and equable

beyond what could be expected at this season, and it is this

circumstance alone that enables us to proceed: the horses are too much

reduced to endure rainy weather, even if the loose soil of the country

would permit us to travel over it.

June 8.--During the night there was light rain. At daylight sent out in

search of water, but all our efforts proved unsuccessful. Peel's range

being the nearest high land, I determined to search the base of it, in

hopes of finding water, since it was impossible that either men or

horses could long endure this almost constant privation of the first

necessary of life. I accordingly set off towards the range, but was

prevented from making it by impenetrable scrubs: we then returned to the

range a little to the west of the tent, whence we could see a

considerable distance to the west and north-west; it is impossible to

imagine a prospect more desolate. The whole country in these directions,

as far as the eye could reach, was one continued thicket of eucalyptus

scrub: it was physically impossible to proceed that way, and our

situation was too critical to admit of delay; it was therefore resolved

to return back to our last station on the 6th under Peel's range, if for

no other purpose than that of giving the horses water. I felt that by

attempting to proceed westerly I should endanger the safety of every man

composing the expedition, without any practical good arising from such

perseverance: it was therefore deemed more prudent to keep along the

base of Peel's range to its termination, having some chance of finding

water in its rocky ravines, whilst there was none at all in attempting

to keep the level country. It was too late to pursue this resolution

this evening.