VALETTA, ISLAND OF MALTA, _May 14, 1842_.
My only means of passage from Jaffa to Alexandria, where I wished to
take the steamer for this island, was on board of a crazy old brig,
laden with bones for the manufacture of buttons. The captain and his
wife were Greeks, and occupied the cabin, infested with vermin. My
companion preferred the deck. I spread my Turkish rug in the yawl-boat,
and covered it with the awning of our tent, and resigned myself for
a four days’ trip. Our servants succeeded in preparing our meals,
although surrounded by fifteen or twenty Arabs, Turks, and Armenians,
most of them dirty-looking fellows. Some of them were pilgrims from
Jerusalem. Entering the harbor of Alexandria an Egyptian officer,
who spoke French, approached us in his boat, but without coming in
contact. He took our bill of health in a tin box to be fumigated, and
then condemned us to a quarantine of ten days. This was annoying and
unexpected; but poor Tray was found in bad company, and we marched off
to the quarantine prisons, where, separated from others by iron bars
and railings, to avoid plague-contagion, we awaited provisions from
outside. Our apartments consisted of two rooms, without furniture,
and covered with dust. We applied to our consul for supplies and made
remonstrances, as the plague did not actually exist where we came
from, but persons were dying from the disease in our vicinity, and
the guard were obliged to keep our servants from communication with
infected subjects, which might jeopardize our lives. Our arms were
demanded of us, which we were unwilling to give up. To our great joy,
through the united action of the Prussian and American consuls, we were
liberated after two days’ incarceration in this miserable place. What
a relief it was to find a decent hotel, a fair table, a comfortable
bed, clean sheets, and tolerably free from fleas and other vermin,
after the fatigue and inconvenience of Nile and desert travel, sleeping
under tents, in mud huts, and subjected to a thousand annoyances,
notwithstanding which my health has improved. But the strong glare of
light, and reflection of the sun’s rays upon the sand, if it had not
produced ophthalmia, had so affected my eyes that I had to abandon
reading and writing for some time. Fortunately a pair of green goggles,
which I had used among the ice mountains of Switzerland, came apropos.
I remained a few days at Alexandria, and embarked for this island in
the steamer Great Liverpool, bearing the Oriental mail and passengers.
The accommodations are of a superior character. Those who land here
must undergo a quarantine of twenty-one days. This being the third
annoyance of the kind, I was loth to submit, but comfortable provision
being made under British rule, and the desire to visit the island in
detail, and then proceed to Spain, made the sacrifice compulsory. This
ridiculous farce will in time be modified or abandoned. Our ship came
in quarantine harbor without communication with the shore, other than
through the fumigating process.
We were taken in a boat, keeping at a respectful distance from the
oarsmen, and when at the station the payment of coin was made by
throwing it in a bucket of water. Our quarters were comfortable,
the servants attentive, the restaurant was well provided. We could
receive and pay visits within the ward, but only in the presence of
the guards, and without touching each other, being kept at the length
of the guardiano’s stick. The island of Malta lies sixty miles east
of Sicily; it is twenty miles in length, twelve in breadth, and sixty
in circumference. The capital, Valetta, was built by the grand master
in 1566; it has houses of cut stone, two and three stories high, with
balconies; rises to a considerable height like a town of stairs, and
is well paved and very clean, under English military rule. The strong
glare of light and dust from pulverized stone is bad for the eyes. It
has many edifices and public buildings full of interest. The ancient
palace of the Knights of St. John, now the residence of the governor,
is interesting for its works of art and relics taken in the siege of
Rhodes. The Church of St. John, or cathedral, is a gem. Even after one
has seen most of the prominent churches of Italy, much of merit will
be found in this edifice. The mosaic pave is of precious marble, and
the epitaphs of the members of the order are intensely interesting. The
city is two and a half miles in circumference. The fortifications are
on an enormous scale, and considered impregnable. The harbors are small
but safe, containing many frigates and other naval vessels at anchor.
The promenade on the bastions gives an extended view.
Although, properly speaking, the island is not much more than a barren
rock, it has become, through the industry and perseverance of its
occupants exceedingly fertile and well cultivated. The hills and rising
grounds are inclosed by walls, to prevent the earth washing away, and
form a succession of terraces.
They excavate and export cut stone, for flagging, in large quantities,
and with the return vessels bring soil, which, mixed with pulverized
stone, is made productive. I have made the tour of the island on
horseback, and found the weather hot; in many places they had commenced
harvesting.
My servant and a running guide accompanied me to the ancient city of
Citta Vecchia. After riding five miles over a dusty but magnificent
road, in many places cut through the solid rock, and admiring the
small patches of vegetation, we came to the palace and gardens of San
Antonio. Here I found a mixture of English and African trees, almonds,
roses in profusion, and loquats, a fruit of a golden color, of an acid
taste, introduced from China, and very refreshing on a dusty road. We
then rode to Citta Vecchia; we were considerably annoyed by beggars.
We looked at the old church, containing some beautiful work in bronze
and marble, with paintings and frescoes of St. Paul’s shipwreck. The
relics of stately buildings, rich in architecture, are visible in all
directions. Not far distant we were shown a church under which was
the cave where St. Paul and St. Luke resided for three months. In the
neighborhood are found the catacombs. Descending a staircase we found a
gallery, with branches in all directions, forming quite a labyrinth.
The sides contain tombs cut out of the solid rock, without regular
order, but with considerable taste. There are several halls, galleries,
and places for sacrifices. On the floor was one circular block, about
four feet in diameter, flat on the top, with a low edge around it.
Above are seen funnels and chimneys leading outside. The ancient
Phœnicians burnt offerings to the element of fire on the occasion of
every tenant deposited in the tomb. In another direction we visited a
village where the poor people voluntarily tax themselves in erecting a
commodious church over and around the old one. They have been at work
nine years, and require five more to accomplish it.
On Sundays the mechanics and laborers are all sure to turn out and
work. When the new edifice is finished, the old one will be torn down
and taken out. We passed through several villages containing fine
churches, clean and comfortable houses, notwithstanding the poverty
of the inhabitants. They are strong Catholics, and speak the Maltese
dialect, a mixture of Arabic and Italian. The caleshe, or vehicle of
the country, has three windows, one pair of wheels, and the driver runs
beside the horse. St. Paul’s Bay is quite prominent; the spot where he
landed has a chapel dedicated to him.
We passed over some high hills to obtain a view of Mellicha, where the
devoted make their pilgrimage.
In the neighborhood are seen caves in the rock, once inhabited. The
Grotto of Calypso was pointed out by our guide; we found a man and
his wife in it, with a hand-loom, a few cooking utensils, a few old
clothes, and a couple of chairs, which was all their stock; a small
present made them quite happy. They had, very naturally, never heard of
Calypso.
They had a beautiful valley lying below them, with a deep bay and the
island of Gozo in the distance. There is much to be said and described
in and about the island, but time does not permit, as I embark for
Spain.