JAFFA, _April 7, 1842_.
When I wrote you last from Jerusalem, I was about making an excursion
to St. John’s in the desert; and had also sent a messenger to the
sheik of the Bedouins, who was to provide an escort to visit the
Dead Sea, the river Jordan, Jericho, &c. Mounted on horses we passed
Bab-el-Khalib, or the Gate of the Pilgrims, and soon found ourselves
in the environs, passing the cistern where Zadok the priest and Nathan
the prophet anointed Solomon king over Israel. It is dug in the rock,
the same as the pools of Solomon. We next passed the tombs of the
Maccabees, situated on a lofty hill to the right, and in two hours’
travel, over rocks and stones, hill and valley, we passed through the
village where the convent stands erected on the spot where John the
Baptist was born. We proceeded much further, penetrating the desert
where he existed in the wilderness forty days upon locusts and wild
honey. Some parts of this excursion we found indeed gloomy, without any
vegetation, but in others the groves of olives situated upon terraces,
with the cultivation of the grape, forming hanging gardens, presented
a striking contrast. Near one of these olive groves, from which it is
asserted the cross of Christ was taken, a convent has been founded in
commemoration. It was dark when we returned; the gates of the city were
closed, but having employed the Janizary of the English consul to await
our return, we were permitted to enter.
Space did not permit me in my last to speak of that which interests
Christians most, viz. the Holy Sepulchre and Mount Calvary. I visited
the church the first time alone, preferring to pay my devotions at the
shrine of our blessed Redeemer without annoyance. The access is by a
narrow avenue, from its being so blocked up with buildings, and there
is only one entrance. Over the doorway is sculptured the triumphal
entrance of our Saviour into Jerusalem, and to the left is a high
tower, the ancient belfry. The first object that I observed on entering
was the slab of marble which covers the “stone of unction,” upon which
the body of Christ was anointed for the tomb, John xix. 39. A little
further in I found the nave of a circular form, surrounded by sixteen
pillars, supporting galleries, and covered by a dome. In the centre
of this area is a small oblong marble building, surmounted by a small
cupola standing upon columns. This covers the supposed site of our
Lord’s tomb.
The Greeks, Armenians, and Catholics occupy the principal part of the
church, leaving the Copts but a small part, and the Protestants out
of the question. The Catholic service had already commenced, and the
display of the robes of the priests embroidered with gold and silver,
the goblets and other vessels of gold, silver candlesticks with immense
candles burning, the mitres of the priests filled with precious stones,
reminded me impressively of the ceremonies of the Holy Week at Rome.
On one side of the Holy Sepulchre upon the pave was seated a group of
women and girls, with white veils over their heads and faces partly
covered; also others from Bethlehem, with shawls of a yellow color and
faces entirely covered. These were surrounded by a guard of Turkish
soldiers placed there to preserve order; as, unfortunately, so much
jealousy exists among the sects, it becomes necessary; but they look
on with indifference and contempt, considering us infidels, and our
religion a farce.
The groups of Greeks and Armenians in native costume, the latter with
heads shaved and red caps, were scattered around the church, and
presented a scene at once novel and impressive. Since the fire of 1808,
which burnt down a considerable part of the church, and which was
repaired by the Greeks with Russian aid, they have secured the most
important part of the church, and it is magnificently fitted up, rich
in paintings, images, and gilding. On the north side is the chapel of
the Apparition, where our Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen. There is
another altar, in commemoration of the flagellation of our Saviour
(John xix. 1). Near the entrance of the church I ascended a flight of
steps to the rock of Calvary, where Christ was crucified. Here are
two altars, one of them Greek and the other Catholic; both splendidly
adorned, the floor of mosaic, the cross with the figure of Christ
suspended, and the figures of two women, one on each side. The rear is
filled up with pictures, small crucifixes of pearl, and all sorts of
devices, lamps continually burning, and suspended ostrich eggs. Between
two slabs of marble is a small grating, through which with a candle
I could discover the original rock, to all appearance split by the
earthquake which followed the crucifixion of Christ. In another part
is shown an altar erected on the spot where the soldiers drew lots for
the garments of Christ (John xix. 33). Then descending about twenty
steps into a rocky court the spot is shown where the Empress Helena
discovered the true cross.
These localities have the appearance of truth, and if deception has
been practised it was well devised. I attended the various services in
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but cannot go further into detail,
for I must give you some idea of our visit to Jordan. Being informed
that the road thither by Jericho was quite unsafe without a strong
escort, and being notorious from early antiquity as beset by robbers,
evidence of which the poor Levite had when relieved by the good
Samaritan, we applied to the sheik of the Bedouins, and myself, my
companion and dragoman, started with five Arabs, well armed. Passing
the gate of Mount Zion, and crossing the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and
part of the Mount of Olives, in half an hour’s ride we arrived at
Bethany, the village where Jesus raised Lazarus from the dead. The
monks here pretend to show the localities of the house of Simon the
leper, of Mary and Martha, and the identical fig-tree which the Lord
cursed. We proceeded, winding through the mountains and valleys, until
towards night we discovered in the distance the long line of black
tents, surrounded by herds of goats, sheep, camels, and horses. When we
arrived, we found the tent of the sheik ready to receive us, but what
a reception in the tent of the Bedouins! Here was man almost in his
primitive state. Blankets of camel’s hair were spread upon the ground;
the tent was inclosed on two sides only. The women and children seemed
excited at the appearance of strangers, but soon recovered from their
surprise. A small hole was made in the ground in front of the tent,
some brush was brought, a few grains of coffee in an iron ladle were
roasted over the fire, and at length the indispensable pipe and coffee
were passed. The encampment formed a circle of about twenty tents,
and while the old men and the most influential of the tribe formed a
group in the front of the tent of the sheik, the women and children
were employed in driving all the animals within the inclosure for the
night. Our evening repast consisted of fresh bread with goat’s and
sheep’s milk, after which we stretched ourselves upon the blankets,
surrounded by some fifteen or twenty Bedouins, but not to sleep, as the
noise of the animals and the crawling of insects were calculated to
give us an early start in the morning. After traversing the mountain
where it is said Jesus was tempted by the devil, and over hill and
dale, we at last arrived at Jericho, which is entirely destroyed.
The only object of interest is the supposed house of Zaccheus. After
leaving Jericho we proceeded across the plain for about three hours,
until we saw the trees in the distance which denoted the Jordan. We
had already discovered a great deal of anxiety on the part of our
Arabs in crossing the mountains, on seeing four men on the top of a
mountain in the distance, and they remarked that they had lost several
camels and sheep, and had had one of their tribe killed, all of which
we concluded might be a farce to extort money from strangers; but on
approaching the Jordan we discovered a party emerging from a thicket
with muskets, and our Arabs were greatly alarmed. We were well armed; a
consultation was held; the blessed stream where St. John baptized our
Redeemer was in sight; we determined on proceeding at all hazards, and
finally had the satisfaction of bathing in the stream and procuring
some bottles of the water. The suspected party finally came up, and
proved to be friendly Arabs.
The Jordan runs very rapidly; the banks are covered with trees and
verdure, and present a very pretty appearance. I was struck with wonder
and surprise when I reflected how in ancient times the shores of the
Jordan were crowded with multitudes of human beings, while now not a
habitation or a civilized being is to be found upon its banks; the only
occupants that I saw were wolves and gazelles.
After leaving the Jordan we passed over a sandy plain until we arrived
upon the shores of the Dead Sea, which is entitled to its name, it
being unruffled, the water very heavy, and consequently very buoyant.
I threw in several logs of wood, which floated like corks upon the
surface. After washing my hands they were covered with an oily and
scaly substance. The flavor of the water is extremely salt and bitter.
It is contended by some that fish do not exist in it. I did not
discover any shells or anything to indicate their existence. Others
contend that fish are found, but of a poisonous quality.
It was not my lot to discover any remains of the lost cities of Sodom
and Gomorrah. From the Dead Sea we proceeded across the limestone
mountains to Mount Saba, where there is a Greek convent, and arrived
just at night at this extraordinary location, which is situated among
rocky cliffs and ledges, in the midst of a gloomy mountain occupied
only by the Bedouins. On knocking at the gate of this vast monastery,
fortified by nature and art, and asking admission as pilgrims and
Christians, we were welcomed in; and our dragoman being a Greek, we
were received with all hospitality, and enjoyed the repose we so much
needed. We here found the monks very polite in showing us all the
contents of the convent. They told us that in the middle ages St. Saba,
with many followers, occupied the caves and ledges of the rocks which
are to be found in the vicinity, and that he had a dream, in which he
was directed by an angel to found a convent on this spot, which was
finally accomplished. They showed us the ancient chapel in the rock,
where were exhibited the skulls of all the monks slain in three attacks
by the Turks. One of their number was buried the morning we left,
having been there forty years, dying at the age of ninety.
On leaving Mount Saba, we directed our course for Bethlehem, and after
a ride of three hours over the mountain, we approached the town by a
gradual ascent along the side of a well cultivated hill, walled up
amphitheatre-like. On entering the convent erected over the place of
nativity of our Saviour, we discovered the remains of a church founded
by the empress Helena. Taking lights, we followed one of the priests
down a flight of steps, visiting several altars consecrated to St.
Gerolomi and others, and finally came to a chamber, in which place
it is said Jesus was born. The chamber is from twenty-five to thirty
feet long, and about fifteen broad, illuminated by fifty hanging
lamps. At the extreme end is shown the ancient fireplace of the house
of the Virgin; upon the marble hearth is a plate of gold beset with
precious stones. On the other side, in a sort of grotto in the rock,
is represented a manger, the place being said to be the identical
spot where the babe of Bethlehem was laid. The chamber is adorned
with paintings representing the virgin and the infant, and lamps are
continually burning.
After quitting this interesting spot, we pursued our course to
Jerusalem, where we soon arrived, after an absence of three days; and
glad I was to return, having suffered exceedingly with my eyes from the
extreme heat and glare of the sun, in crossing the limestone mountains.
The weakness of my sight confined me to the house for two days, whereby
I was able only to receive the vendors of beads and crucifixes.
On our route from Jerusalem to Jaffa, we took refuge at the house
of our vice-consul, at Ramlah, who entertained that evening all the
suite of the Pasha of Jerusalem, on their return from Gaza, as also
the sheiks of several tribes of Bedouins; and it was an amusing sight
to see some twenty persons squatted on the low divan, with their long
pipes, all in Turkish costume, with long black beards and turbans,
and occasionally a venerable Turk with his beard as white as snow.
When dinner was announced, five small tables, about a foot and a half
in height, were placed upon the floor, with servers on each; when
four persons squatting around each, commenced the repast, eating in
silence, without the use of forks, rising when satisfied, and washing
their hands, which is done both before and after eating, the master of
the house dipping his fingers first in the dish at table, and being
the last to leave the table, following the rules of etiquette; all
returning upon the divan, and resuming their favorite chibouque and cup
of coffee.
We are now stopping in the Saba convent, and waiting an opportunity to
go to Alexandria; expecting the arrival of a schooner to-morrow, which
is the only communication. This town is the ancient Joppa spoken of
in Scripture, 2d Chron. ii. 16; Acts ix. 36 and 42, and is situated
upon an eminence overhanging the sea. The houses rise in terraces from
the water’s edge, and present a singular appearance from the sea. It
is like a town of stairs, the streets paved in steps, owing to the
inequality of the ground. This port is small, and the rocks dangerous.
The view from the roofs of the houses is splendid. The surf comes to
an immense height to-day, having had a strong north wind. The environs
are beautiful, particularly the orange groves, which abound, extending
all over the plains of Sharon, so celebrated in Scripture for their
fertility, and the beautiful flowers that grow spontaneously from the
soil.