JERUSALEM, _March 25, 1842_.
Some time since, when I crossed the mountains of Judea, and my eyes
beheld the holy city in the distance for the first time, I could not
help exclaiming, “Is it possible that at last, after a voyage of six or
seven thousand miles from my native land, I am soon to visit the many
interesting localities connected with the life and sufferings of our
Saviour, from his nativity at Bethlehem to his crucifixion upon Mount
Calvary?” most of which is now realized.
My last was from the quarantine at Gaza, after escaping which we
entered the city, visited the governor, and in the name of the Sultan
demanded an escort, which he readily granted, by sending two mounted
gensd’armes who accompanied us to the town of Ramlah, the ancient
Arimathea, where resided Joseph who took from the cross the body of our
Lord and laid it in his own sepulchre.
There are no antiquities at Gaza, and the traveller looks in vain for
the ancient gates connected with the history of Samson. The streets
are narrow, and the houses, many of which are situated in gardens, are
unglazed, but the location is beautiful, and surrounded with groves
of olive and palm trees. Our first day’s travel from Gaza, through
the land of the Philistines, brought us to a mud village at night,
where we proposed striking our tent; but much to our surprise we
found the bare-footed sheik and half-clad Arabs of the village would
not permit it, asserting that the country was infested with robbers,
that the villages were against each other, and that they would not
be responsible for our safety. They showed us a mud khan, without
any other opening than a sort of door to crawl in, which all Turkish
villages furnish the traveller, and some of which are habitable for
one night. Being finally obliged to submit and abandon our tent, which
was a palace in comparison with this hovel, we struck our lights,
and among rats, fleas, and apprehensions of robbers, from either
the village or country, we passed a disagreeable night, escaping at
break of day scarified with the bites of insects, and looking as if
we had the small-pox. The next day we arrived at Ramlah, and were
about pitching our tent in an olive grove, when our chevalier, who was
mounted on a swift Arab, and who had gone in advance to procure horses
to go to Jerusalem, came down upon us, saying there was an American
Vice-Consul at that place, who invited us to his house. The invitation
was readily accepted, as it commenced raining for the first time since
we left Cairo. We were welcomed by this hospitable Greek with a hearty
shake of the hand, and soon found ourselves at ease, seated upon a low
divan, with the usual cup of coffee and pipe. It was a luxury to be
once more under a roof, after sixteen days’ hard riding upon the back
of a dromedary in crossing the desert.
The day we came to Ramlah, through our anxiety to arrive early, we put
our dromedaries on full trot; mine stumbled and came down with me. It
was a _long fall_, but I escaped with a slight bruise. Having sent
our caravan in advance, we made a few excursions on horseback, and
started the following day for Jerusalem. Passing the village of Ludd
(Lydda), where the apostle Peter cured Eneas of the palsy, after two
hours’ ride we commenced the first ascent of the mountains of Judea.
The road winds by a rugged ravine, round a detached and barren hill, on
the summit of which is the village of Latroun, or Thief’s Village, so
called from its having been the birthplace of the criminal who repented
on the cross, and for whom Jesus Christ performed his last act of mercy.
Soon after leaving this village, we entered the mountains, portions of
which were extremely wild and romantic, and abounding with flowers.
In some places the road, or path, was almost impassable, and steep
with rugged rocks, and we had to lead our horses. This road is not
considered dangerous, owing to the great travel from Joppa. We passed
several caravans of camels, donkeys, Arabs, and also pilgrims, who
presented quite a singular appearance; the men, women, and children in
various costumes, and bound for the holy city. After passing the most
elevated of the chain of mountains, where vegetation almost ceases,
we descended into the Vale of Jeremiah, where we visited the sheik of
Abu Gosch, of an ancient Arab family, who formerly demanded tribute
of all strangers that passed, and whose tribe occupies the mountains;
but his rights having been asserted and maintained against the Sultan,
at length his authority was confirmed by his guarantee of the peace
of the mountains, and we found several of his guards by the road-side
at different points. He showed us his fine Arab steeds, and after
partaking of an Arab repast, while seated upon Turkish rugs upon the
grass, and an half-hour’s conversation through our dragomen, we left,
and passed into a deeper valley, called the Valley of Turpentine, near
which we came to the brook where the youthful David picked up five
stones, with one of which he killed Goliah.
After a few hours’ ride over a rough road, where a few olive trees
are the only signs of vegetable life, we reached the top of a high
hill, when suddenly the anxiously looked for city presented itself to
view. We soon found ourselves at the gate, where our bill of health
was demanded, and found our caravan had been suspected and put in
quarantine; but we were immediately liberated. We made the best of
our way to the Convent of St. Salvador, visited the father, and got
permission to stop.
The rooms of the convent are small, like prisons, with iron gratings
for windows, but are considered comfortable enough for pilgrims, who
have fared much worse en voyage. The first morning after my arrival,
I attended the Episcopal service, and found a small congregation
worshipping in my native tongue; and the words of Scripture which
declare that “where two or three are gathered together in my name,
there will I be with them,” were forcibly impressed on my mind.
I visited bishop Alexander and his family, whose mission was
established last winter. The new church is in progress of construction,
and bids fair to be a fine edifice.
Having had occasion to visit the palace of the Pacha, which was
formerly the location of the house of Pilate, I mounted the flat
roof where the panorama of Jerusalem was taken, and saw below me the
square of _Harem Scheriff_, a grand and noble retirement for the
Turks, which also incloses the mosques of Omar and El Aksar, built
on Mount Moriah, where formerly stood the throne of Solomon and the
judgment-seat of David; and a certain spot is shown, where the Turks
believe Mahomet is to judge the world, assembled in the Valley of
Jehoshaphat, below. None but Turks are allowed to visit its sacred
precincts. It is prettily arranged with walks, fountains, and a few
orange trees. I then strolled along the _Via Dolorosa_, regarding
the localities with interest as they were pointed out; the place where
Simon assisted to carry the cross; where the crowning of thorns took
place; the residence of Simon, the pharisee, &c., until I arrived at
St. Stephen’s gate, and passed down the ravine near which he was stoned
to death. I soon found myself in the garden of Gethsemane, and here the
olives have the appearance of great age. Near by was shown the spot
where the apostles slept, while Christ went to pray in the grotto near
at hand, and where he said, “_Father, if it be Thy will_.” The
grotto is now fitted up by the Catholics, and lights are continually
burning. There is a small chapel near by, fitted up as the tomb of the
Virgin Mary. From the valley I ascended the Mount of Olives, which
is a round, tabular hill, covered with verdure and a sprinkling of
olives. To reach the summit is a long walk, and half way up are the
remains of a monastery, built on the spot where _Jesus wept_ over
Jerusalem, foreseeing how her people should be scattered, and her high
places made desolate. On the top of the hill is the ancient church of
the Ascension, now a Turkish mosque. Here is an impression made in the
rock, to show the last footprint of our Saviour, and many a devout
pilgrim concludes it to be as represented.
Here I had the best view of Jerusalem, with its embattled walls
fortified with towers, and inclosing the city on all sides, with its
seven gates.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the mosques, the Armenian convent,
the Tomb of David, the Turkish burial-grounds, the spot where once
stood the palace of Herod, &c., all present themselves at one view.
The houses of Jerusalem are heavy, square masses, very low, without
chimneys or windows, flat terraces or domes on the top, and look like
sepulchres or prisons. The streets are unpaved, narrow, and obscure,
and said to be generally very dull; but I was fortunate in arriving
here to witness the ceremonies of the Holy Week, the same as I was
at Rome, last year. The many pilgrims who come from different parts
of Asia, Africa, and Europe, composed of Greeks, Armenians, Copts,
Latins, and some Protestants, give the city life as well as variety of
character and costume, and create an active demand for the necessaries
of life.
My next excursion outside the walls was in passing the gate of the
prophet David on the top of Mount Zion, nearly opposite to the tomb of
David, and the scene of the Last Supper. Near the gate of Bethlehem
we saw some ancient cisterns of Jewish workmanship, which are alluded
to in Neh. iii. 16, and Chron. xxxii. 30. Here are also a number of
sepulchres cut in the rock and well executed. These tombs are alluded
to in Neh. iii. 6. Following the valley of the Gihon outside of the
walls, we made a long walk until we came to the cave in which the
apostles hid themselves after the crucifixion. Then coming along we
passed the Potter’s Field, the price of our Saviour’s blood. On the
opposite bank of the valley of Mount Saba near which flows the brook
of Kedron, is the village of Siloam, partly built and excavated out
of solid rock; near this is the Pool of Siloam, where we descended
by a flight of sixteen steps to the water and found it excellent. A
little further on are three ancient tombs, cut in the rock, and called
Jehoshaphat, Zachariah, and the Pillar of Absalom--two are nearly
square, and adorned with pilasters and columns. In the vicinity is
shown the spot where Christ was arrested by the officer of the High
Priest, and the _footprint_ is cut in the rock to mark the place.