QUARANTINE, GAZA, _March 18, 1842_.
My last was written in the desert, since which time we have been en
route, and were quarantined yesterday on entering this place, it being
represented that the plague existed in Egypt. On this voyage by the
desert we have had adventure after adventure, and I must here relate
the incidents alluded to in my last. The fourth day of our departure
from Cairo we had travelled most of the time through a desert country,
occasionally striking in the palm groves. At four o’clock P.M.
we found ourselves near an Arab village, and our camels were discharged
and tent struck, while the Count and myself started in pursuit of
some wild ducks, but were followed by one of our Arabs, who, by signs
and gestures, insisted that we should not pass by the village. We,
however, persisted, and on returning I made the remark that I would not
trust myself there without arms. In the evening one of our servants,
an Armenian, to our surprise told us not to hang any clothes or loose
luggage on the side of the tent opposite to where the camels and their
drivers were stationed, saying there were many robbers who would steal
our things in the night. We rather ridiculed the idea, not believing
they dared approach the tent, knowing us to be armed. Our camel drivers
pretended to watch through the night, and at one o’clock in the morning
we were awaked with the report of a musket and the whizzing of a ball
alongside of our tent, and the cries of our men to sally forth with our
arms. In an instant with muskets and pistols we were outside the tent,
while the bustle and excitement showed the brigands that we were ready
for them if they came. It was the most fearful night I ever passed.
The idea of being shot like a dog under cover of night, was not only
exciting but provoking. In a state of anxiety we watched until four
o’clock in the morning, during which time we had two pistol shots, but
none taking effect. At this hour the men rose; we heard the cry of
the Musselmans for the morning prayer in the village, and considered
ourselves exceedingly fortunate in escaping unhurt.
At an early hour we left this place which was so full of danger, and
which gave rather fearful apprehensions for the future. Our guns
and pistols were kept charged and ready for use, and this evening we
encamped some distance in the desert, away from the trees which form a
cover for the robbers. In the evening one of our servants entered the
tent, and I observed he drew a heavy sigh, and on demanding the cause
he said nothing, but pressing him still further for an explanation,
he said he had great anxiety for our safety; that in the village
they were all Musselmans, and did not like the Christian pilgrims
who go to Jerusalem, and would kill us--which was not very agreeable
information, but this part of his story we could not credit. That
evening after I had extinguished the candle and laid myself upon my
mattress for a half hour, I heard the report of a gun not far distant.
It was really extremely exciting after the events of the past night.
Our men were watching, and we had resolved, if we were compelled to
sell our lives, it should be at a dear rate. We passed the night under
great apprehension, and in the morning passed through the village and
found the walls of many mud-houses destroyed and deserted, and the
inhabitants who remained appeared fit subjects for robbery.
The next night, after a hot and fatiguing journey, we found ourselves
upon the borders of the vast desert which we were about to enter for
several days. Not having slept for two nights, and there still being
danger, we presented ourselves before the sheik of this village, which
was of some importance, and with the firman of Mehemet Ali demanded a
guard of eight armed men for the night, who surrounded our tent while
we enjoyed the repose which we so much needed.
Here we were obliged to fill our vessels with water, and buy fresh
supplies for six or seven days in crossing the desert. After quitting
this village and getting into the desert we felt ourselves more safe,
and encamped with much less anxiety. Occasionally we would see some
Bedouin Arabs with their swarthy features and long black beards, with
a carbine swung over their shoulders and a brace of pistols in their
belt, having every appearance of the bandit, but of them we had no
fear, as our camel drivers belonged to the same tribe, and our contract
was made with the sheik.
In many parts of the desert we found the sand exceedingly light and
the travelling difficult, the sand forming itself into mountains with
the drifting of the wind, and resembling in the distance fields
and mountains covered with snow. In other parts, particularly as we
approached the sea towards Gaza, we found immense salt marshes, which
were filled with the wild boar, and on the sand hills adjoining we
would see large numbers of gazelles scampering away from us. Some of
those salt water lakes which we passed are very beautiful indeed, and,
with the crystallization of the salt, have the appearance of new-made
ice all along the edges, and in some instances half skimmed over, while
the banks are covered with stunted bushes of a grey color, and one
imagines for an instant that it is the season of winter. Near one of
these salt marshes we discovered a small pool of brackish water, from
which the Arabs who had joined our caravan replenished their sacks,
which they carry on their backs, and which are made of hog-skin. I
could not help remarking the facility with which those travelling Arabs
prepared their supplies. One of them, after filling his sack with
water, took a sheepskin which covered his shoulders, and, placing it
on the sand, poured on the inside some flour from another small sack,
and with the water made his bread; then gathering some brush together,
he instantly had a fire, and in a very short time all his wants were
satisfied. The Arab of the desert is contented with bread and water; he
looks upon what we consider necessaries as luxuries, and if he had them
perhaps would not use them.
The gait of the camel is awkward and very fatiguing to the rider. He
kneels and rises at pleasure, is very patient, subsists upon what
he can gather from plants and shrubs, like the goat, goes many days
without water, and seems in every way adapted for the desert. At night,
in striking our tent, a scene of life and bustle presented itself in
discharging our beasts; the mats are laid, the mattresses brought and
spread, the luggage looked after and stowed away for the night; the
camel-drivers are searching for wood and sticks, the camels stroll and
graze; the cook makes a fire on the sand and prepares the dinner, after
which comes the refreshing sleep, until the bustle of loading in the
morning, which must be repeated every day.
After having passed the desert we arrived at El Arish, a miserable
village on the frontier of Palestine, where we were told that at Gaza
we would have to perform a quarantine of five or eight days, as we were
supposed in coming from Egypt to bring the plague with us.
On approaching Scheik Inde, which is distant twenty miles, the soil is
light, and grass and sand dispute possession with each other. Here we
were stopped and tribute-money demanded. We wished to know the reason,
to which one of the four persons who stopped us replied that they had
been placed there by the Sultan to demand tribute of all strangers.
This we doubted, and wanted to see their authority. Two of them were
armed, and refused to let us pass without compliance, and threatened
to hold our luggage. Really it was an act of daring impudence to be
attacked thus on the high-road, and in the name of the Sultan too. We
finally dared them to stop us, threatening not only with weapons but
the vengeance of the Sultan, whose firman we had at command, when they
concluded to let us pass. We have since understood that several persons
through fear had paid the scoundrels heavy tribute.
The next day we came to the village of Khan Yunes, the environs of
which were beautiful; the gardens filled with fruit trees and flowers,
the hedges of cactus indicus or prickly pear, and the fields clothed
with verdure, presented a lovely sight after having been in the
desert country so long time. On approaching the gate of the village
we were stopped and notified that we were to perform quarantine,
which we believed they had no right to demand, and therefore we had
no disposition to be thus delayed. We demanded an audience of the
governor, but found he was absent. We insisted on passing, but they
stopped our camels. We said we would perform quarantine at Gaza, but
they would not allow us to pass through the village, and ordered us to
pitch our tent on the commons, there to serve out our quarantine. High
words ensued, the Count took up his gun and threatened to shoot the
officer if he stopped his dromedary. We passed around the village on
the road to Gaza, when I discovered some half-dozen armed men coming
up, who were determined we should stop. Our next move was to show
them that we had the firman of the Sultan and could not be arrested.
Fortunately for us they could not read Turkish, and on our promise to
be quarantined at Gaza, they permitted us to pass. We saw many others
less fortunate, who were quarantined in the open field without a
covering to their heads.
Yesterday we arrived at Gaza, the approach to which is beautiful
indeed, the road winding through a series of gardens fenced with the
cactus indicus, reminding me of Mount Etna at the base and of other
parts of Sicily. The groves of olives with the sycamore tree form
an agreeable shelter from the rays of the sun, and the country is
exceedingly fertile. Before reaching the city we discovered a tent
by the road side, from which approached an armed guard, and keeping
at a respectful distance informed us we were to be quarantined from
five to fifteen days at the direction of the Nazro, or chief officer
of the quarantine. We found resistance would be fruitless, and were
marched off to the ground, a mile from the city, where we pitched our
tent upon the grass, and where I now write you. It is ludicrous, but
at the same time disagreeable, to observe the guards keeping us off at
the length of a stick to prevent our coming in contact with them, the
plague being a contagious disease, and much to be dreaded. We desired
an audience of the governor on arriving, that we might endeavor to
lessen our quarantine, which of course could not be granted, as all
persons coming from Egypt at this season of the year are suspected of
having the plague with them. We then desired a visit from the Nazro,
who this morning came to see us. Turkish rugs were sent outside the
tent and spread upon the grass; coffee, pipes, and lemonade ordered for
his reception. The first he had no occasion for, being squatted upon
his own carpet, and indeed he dared not touch ours, as it was supposed
to be pestiferous. The coffee and lemonade being in non-conductors were
first placed upon the ground by our servant, at the distance of six
or seven feet, when his attendant presented them to him. After having
explained through our dragoman the time we had been in the desert,
that the plague did not exist in Cairo when we left, and expressed
great anxiety to arrive at Jerusalem, we then exhibited a firman from
the Sultan, which was held at the distance of three feet with a sort
of tongs and read; but he also discovered a small bit of paper which
enveloped something _curious_, and on calling for perfume and fire
to fumigate it, much to his surprise found some pieces of gold, which a
Turk or Arab can scarcely refuse; but in this case he could not think
of receiving it, being surrounded by too many witnesses. But he being
satisfied that there is no possible risk in lessening our quarantine,
and that our intentions were good, has this evening sent his secretary
to say that, in consideration of our having passed so much time in the
desert and several days in Syria, and out of respect for the firman of
the Sultan, with a certain _indispensable backsheesh_, it would be
unkind in him to detain us more than another day; we shall therefore be
on the move again after to-morrow, and rejoiced to escape from being
imprisoned a week or ten days without cause.