March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
_Jan. 14th._--We started early, in hopes to reach Zinder in the course
of the morning. Our course of five hours was S. 10 deg. E. from the
encampment. The route from En-Noor's palace in Damerghou is two good
days and a-half. After two hours and a-half we came to huts in a valley,
and a village of thirty or forty houses, called Boban Tabki. In three
quarters of an hour there were villages again. I was pleased to see the
corn-stacks or field-granaries standing in the open country, apart from
all houses or habitations, illustrating the security of property in
Zinder and its neighbouring districts. The country all around is
pleasant, nicely undulating with ridges of green hills--the horizon
bounded on every side with rounded green hills.
We sighted Zinder after four hours' march; and entered the town within
another hour. I was somewhat impatient to get rid of the Tuaricks, and
place myself in the hands of the Bornou authorities; so I rode off
myself to the town, leaving the suburbs, where the family of En-Noor
have their residence, deaf to all their cries to stop. I found a
friendly Kailouee, who conducted me straight to the house of the
governor. His servants took me to the Shereef, and the Shereef sent me
to Said, my servant, where I found a house and everything prepared for
my reception; and here, also, I found a slave sent from Bornou by the
Sheikh, to conduct me to Kuka: so all things wore a happy aspect after
so many miseries and uncertainties.
I was delighted with the appearance of Zinder, its picturesque
situation, and its unexpected size. It is much larger than I was led to
expect. As soon as I was domiciled I received visits from several
merchants of Mourzuk, besides the authorities of the town. All the sons
of the Sultan of the place came to salute me; I gave them each a little
sugar, and off they went highly pleased. Provisions now poured in at
such a rate, that after the starvation of the desert I became nauseated
at their sight. These were sent by the Sultan and the Shereef.
Thankful satisfaction for my deliverance from the wild tribes, the most
hostile to Christians of all this part of Africa, and fond anticipations
of what I may do in Bornou; the good news I already heard, and the
anxiety of the Sheikh for our safety, with my comparatively robust
health;--thoughts of all these things prevented me from sleeping during
the night.
I learnt from Said, servant of Haj Beshir, that letters had arrived from
Mourzuk for us in Kuka, and one was addressed to the Sheikh, which had
determined him to bring us all at once to Kuka, and prevent us going
first to Soudan. Upon this advice, the Sultan of this place had sent
four persons to Tesaoua, to bring my colleagues from that place. But
whether they will come on the demand of these persons is very
questionable. I learned that the Sfaxee, as I expected, was laid up with
fever in Kanou, for he is emphatically a man of fever; and, besides, he
has no control over himself, but gorges himself with food when an
opportunity presents itself; and this, after the privations of the
desert, is sure to bring on disease. Yusuf Moknee came to me this
evening, to know what was to be done on the next morning. He finds it
necessary to alter his conduct, as he sees now that I could do without
him. I determined to go on with him for the present. I do not wish to
leave him here with En-Noor, for he may do us harm with that subtle
Kailouee prince. I must take him away from the Tuaricks altogether.
I found all the Mourzuk people very friendly--everybody friendly; the
world seemed turned upside down after our treatment from the Tuaricks. I
began to make little presents, for I am determined our friends shall
have a portion of her Majesty's goods as well as our enemies; which
latter, indeed, took them away from us by force. I must not forget to
remark, that when I entered Zinder there was not a single person bold
enough to whisper the name _Kafer!_ so immense is the difference between
this Bornou country and the Tuarick territories.
_15th._--I rose early, having slept little. The weather was cool, the
thermometer at sunrise being at 59 deg.. I began to prepare our presents for
the Sultan and the Shereef. After much debating as to quantity, it was
determined to keep all the best things for Kuka, and give small presents
here. In this respect I must praise Yusuf and his friends amongst the
Mourzuk people.
I prepared a present for Sarkee Ibrahim, sultan of Zinder, consisting of
a piece of muslin for turban, a red turban, three heads of sugar, two
glass drinking-cups, painted, a cup and saucer for coffee, a few rings
in imitation of gold, cloves, two handkerchiefs (cotton), powder and
shot, fifty bullets, two or three small looking-glasses. The present for
the Shereef consisted of a carpet (hearth-rug), used here for kneeling
upon in performing prayers, three white sugar-loaves, cloves,
handkerchief (cotton), powder and shot, with some other trifles. The
present for Said, sent by Haj Beshir from Kuka, consisted of a cloth
caftan (coarse), a cotton handkerchief, and a piece of cotton stuff to
make a pillow.
I am happy to add, that all were content and satisfied; but we made them
understand--indeed, they knew it before we arrived--that the Tuaricks
had taken away nearly all my property.
I must add the present of the Shereef Saghir (little Shereef), who acts
as interpreter for the Sultan: a glass painted drinking-cup, a
handkerchief (cotton), a little sugar, jani, senbal, a few cloves, and
two or three rings; with which he was well satisfied.
Before noon I waited on the Shereef to deliver my present. I was much
struck with this man's appearance. He was quite an European--white as
myself. His countenance seemed full of thought and meaning. He is a
native of Fez, and has lived long in Algiers. He has served in the war
against the French under Abd-el-Kader, and has only been two years in
Bornou and in Kuka, and once in Zinder. He is here as the _nather_,
"looker-on;" one who watches over the interests of the country,
particularly in its foreign relations. To speak plainly, he is a spy of
the Sheikh of Bornou over the authorities of Zinder, including the
Governor. All the people say, "Without the Shereef nothing can be done
in Zinder;" and well they may, considering that he is in the entire
confidence of the Sheikh. The Shereef is also the agent of all
foreigners, and our goods were directed to his care from Tintalous--that
is, those things which we sent up before us. The Sultans of Zinder are
always a little disaffected; and to check them, and watch their conduct,
the Shereef has been sent here. This personage is also universally
respected for his learning, piety, and almsgiving; so that, apparently,
the Sheikh could not have intrusted his interests to a more able man.
The Shereef knows well the use of arms, for it is reported here in
Zinder that he has killed _forty thousand_ Frenchmen with his own hands!
The people actually believe this most marvellous report!
After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the Sultan Ibrahim, and
deliver to his highness our present. We were conducted into a species of
fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick. Here in a sort of
anteroom, or open skifa, or hall, we found some fifty soldiers of the
Sultan, unarmed and bare-headed, with one or two governors of
neighbouring places, all squatted upon the ground. I was requested to
squat down amongst them, which I did near a raised mud-bench. There was
little light, the place being built to shut out the glare and heat of
the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an hour, till the Sultan was
announced by the cries of the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers.
His highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and whilst so doing his
attendants all squatted down, many of them taking up the dust from the
ground and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying, "Long live the
Sultan! God bless him!" This is the first occasion on which I have
witnessed this degrading custom, this abject worship of the
representative of power. The scene was perfectly African and negro.
I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers, one of whom had a sort of
double skull, another smaller skull raised above the larger one,--a
protuberance which came from an accident in infancy. This double-skulled
man was the chief of the domestics.
The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly asked after my health.
We then read our letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He
observed that the route _via_ Aheer was good. "How good," asked Yusuf,
"when we are arrived here naked, and stripped of everything?" At which
his highness burst out, laughing, with all the people. There was now
observed a little bustle behind, and his highness called out "Silence!"
like a sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter to tell the
Sultan that our present was small, for we had been stripped by the
Tuaricks. This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped a packet
of powder and shot into the hands of one of the principal courtiers,
telling him it was for the Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not
place it with the other presents, because the servant of Haj Bashaw,
sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his highness any powder and shot,
alleging, that this Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh would
disapprove of my giving him munitions of war. But I was determined to
give fifty bullets and two dozen charges of powder, believing that he
could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would make him my personal
friend. No person knew what I gave the Governor.
The powder and shot being delivered, I took leave of his highness,
raising my cap and shaking hands with him. At this doffing off the cap
all the people were highly gratified, thinking great respect was thereby
shown to their prince.
Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of fifty years of age,
with a countenance sparkling with good humour, and I believe I may add,
intelligence. He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that he must
be a man of character. This day he received a renewal of his commission
from Kuka, a ceremony that takes place every year; and so he was in a
happy humour. There was also a sort of feast at the palace, and his
highness rode out with a detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought
our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed commission, or a man, from
the Sheikh. Haj Beshir has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our
baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen, or having become weak
with the journey from Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my camels
and turn them into ready money, which I much need, and then start.
We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and had a laugh about the man
with two skulls. I told the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than
one," at which they all burst out laughing. The Shereef was surrounded
by foreign merchants, all chatting in good humour. These Moors were
friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European clothes; first, because
unless you have very good clothes, such as worn by the people of the
country, you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and principally, to
show the Kailouees, and other strangers, that I was now in a friendly
place, and that no one dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In
fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the word _Kafer_. His
highness and all the people admired my European gear. I told them that
now the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly so; at which they
were greatly surprised. I had on a black surtout, tight trousers, and
varnished boots, gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European but
the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap or shasheeah.
In the evening I paid a visit to the family of En-Noor, who were greatly
astonished at my transfiguration from a bad Moorish dress into an
European suit. They were much disconcerted at this change, and my happy
humour. Madame En-Noor rated me for running away from them yesterday. I
told them I wished to get to my friends of Bornou as quickly as
possible. My interpreter also informed them that the Sheikh had sent
camels, and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here for our safety.
They were all displeased at this news, as a reflection upon them and the
conduct of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change in everything. I
was anxious to mark this change in our circumstances, that they might
reflect how they treated Europeans again when fallen into their hands.
At the same time I showed a desire not to hurt their feelings, wishing
to be on friendly terms with them whilst here.
The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now. All feel the power of the
Sheikh, and are almost as submissive as if they were at Mourzuk.
However, the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I believe now I
must finish with them. The Sultan is said by his servants to have gone
to Tesaoua. I am extremely glad I came without him to this place.
Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me. From Tesaoua he will be here
after some days. People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not En-Noor.
The prince of Zinder asked, where is An-Nour? The people are still at
work preparing this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular
wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there is a mud-house in the
middle, but it is now fallen into ruins.
I made a tour of the town, and was still more pleased than before with
its size. It is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants. There are many
divisions, separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We visited
the Kaid of a district. He immediately brought us ghaseb-water and milk.
Really the world seems turned upside down when the conduct of the people
here is compared with the hospitality which we received from En-Noor,
although he personally paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by others.
We came through the souk, where were the sticks of meat roasting, and
lots of people. No one whispered _Kafer_! The Shereef sent me a horse to
ride on when I go out, and recommends me to do so.
The scavengers of Zinder are a multitudinous host of a small species of
filthy-looking vultures, brown and black in colour: they are exceedingly
tame, for the people never touch them, and they walk about the streets
tamer than the fowls. I believe the same species of vulture are also the
scavengers of Kanou. At Zinder they take their evening exercise by
flying in circles over the city, a hundred or two together. There are a
few white ones amongst the flock. The Sultan sent for a piece of camphor
this morning. I gave him some, with a silver French coin and a new
English farthing.
The news is, that I must stay here ten days, to oblige the slaves who
have been sent from Kuka to carry the baggage. We are also to stay at
Minyo a few days, _en route_ four days from this.
I spent the evening gleaning information of the interior. There is now
no war in any part of Central Africa, i.e. no great wars. Probably the
princes of Africa, like those of Europe, find that war will not pay. At
any rate, all is peace for the present. This will facilitate our
progress. I had a visit from the son of the Kadi of Kuka, an intelligent
young man, who has promised to come to-morrow to write the routes from
Zinder to his native place.
I have obtained a list of the names of the principal sultans in this
part of Africa:
1. Bornou--The Sheikh Omer, the son of the sheikh who reigned in the
time of the first expedition. He has now reigned fourteen years. He has
a good character.
2. Sakkatou--Sultan of the Fellatahs, Ali. He is not so great as his
father Bello, celebrated in the time of the first expedition.
3. Asben, or Aheer--Abd-el-Kader.
4. Maradee--Binono.
5. Gouber--Aliou (Ali).
6. Niffee--Khaleelou. The name of the capital is Gondu. The Sultan is a
Fullan, but independent of Sakkatou, as are many other Fullan princes.
7. Adamaua--Lauel. He is called by the Fullans Madubbu-Adamaua, i.e.
Sultan or Kakam of Adamowa. He is a Fullan, but the people whom he
governs are all Kohlans, or negroes.
8. Yakobah--Ibrahim. His father was called Yakobah, and the country has
probably derived its recent name of the late sultan; the capital is
called Baushi. The rulers are Fellatahs.
9. Kanou--Osman Bel-Ibrahim.
10. Kashna--Mohammed-Bello.
11. Zaria--Mahommed Sani.
12. Kataguni--Abd-er-Rahman.
13. Kadaija--Ahmadou.
14. Timbuctoo--Mohammed Lebbu, a Fellatah.
15. Jinnee--
16. Begharmi--Burkmanda.
17. Mandara--
18. Lagun--
19. Zinder--Ibrahim.
The alliances and enmities, the wars and the intrigues of all these
princes, will one day, perhaps, form materials for some
semi-mythological history, when civilisation has removed its camp to
these intertropical regions. Regular annals, however, there never can
be. No record seems to be kept, except in the unfaithful memories of the
natives; and even if the contrary were the case, posterity would
willingly consign to oblivion all but the salient points of this period
of barbarism and slave-hunting.
Daura is a city of great antiquity, but I have never seen it on the
maps. It is two days from Zinder on the route to Kanou, and has now
about the same number of inhabitants as Zinder, or from 20,000 to
25,000.
Ancient Haussa, according to the Monshee, consisted of seven cities,
viz.
1. Kanou.
2. Kashna. This city is now about three times the size of Zinder.
3. Daura.
4. Zaria.
5. Gouber.
6. Maradee.
7. Zanbara. This city is now about the size of Kashna. It lies beyond
Gouber, not far from Sakkatou.
I went to see the souk. There are two market-days in Zinder: the great
souk on Thursday, and the little one on Friday, the days following one
another. I rapidly passed through it; it was full of people and
merchandise; all things in abundance; no one called after me, but I did
not like to stay long to expose myself. The principal provisions and
domestic animals offered for sale are cattle (oxen), sheep, camels,
asses, goats, beef, mutton, samen, honey, ghaseb, ghafouley, a little
wheat, dried fish (rather stinking, because no salt is used in drying),
kibabs or roasted pieces of meat, beans, dankali or sweet potatoes;
which last are brought from Kanou, as also is the fish, &c. I purchased
three sweet potatoes for a fifth of a penny. There was, besides, also a
good quantity of merchandise of every sort, and slaves in numbers. Honey
also is brought from Kanou to this souk. In Kanou, twelve pounds and
a-half are sold for four thousand wadas, or four-fifths of a dollar. In
Zinder, the same quantity sells for about double the price. They
adulterate here and send it to Aheer.
In the evening I went with the Shereef to his garden. He has brought
with him the tastes of the people of Morocco for gardens, and has
introduced into Zinder tomatas from Kuka. His beds contain onions,
peppers, cucumbers, wheat, lemons, date-palms, and some other small
things. There is a little wheat also, but merely as an ornament. The
date-palms bear twice a-year, but the dates do not dry in this country.
There is a part of Soudan where the dates are said to become dry as
those of Fezzan. The lemons are as good as those on the north coast, but
they are found only in Soudan. But two or three trees have been seen in
Bornou. Onions are in abundance, and it is said that those people who
eat onions do not catch the fevers of Soudan. The Shereef considers the
horses of this country to have little strength--not to be compared with
those of the north coast. He has sent me one to ride round the environs.
We conversed upon Algerian affairs. The Shereef said nothing against the
French in general; he only complained of the non-fulfilment of the
treaty of capitulation with Abd-el-Kader and his fellow-prisoners. I
told him Bou Maza was liberated, which news surprised him. He said Bou
Maza was a fool, and had no followers. All the conversation of the
Shereef was marked with good sense. He had been in Malta, and resided
there two months. His native place is two days' journey from Tangiers.
He is well acquainted with Christians. He speaks with a strong Mogarbi
accent. As to this country and the Tuaricks, he observed the Sheikh was
determined to keep them down, and was not afraid of them.
The Shereef possesses a fair amount of women--some twenty, but only one
son. I sent this evening presents of rings to the ladies.
Yusuf paid a visit to the Sultan this morning, to carry him a present on
his part. He entered the interior of the building, and found it full of
dirt, and bare of every species of furniture. The Sultan himself had
only upon him a Soudan tobe and a white cap. All the rest of his people
were bare-headed, and were covered with dirty tobes. This contempt of
dress arises from the fact that the prince was a slave of the ancient
Sultans of Bornou. There are, besides, other sultans _en route_ to Kuka,
of the same stamp; but he of Minyo is said to dress excessively,
changing his costume five times a-day. We are to remain some days in
Minyo, of which I am glad, because there we shall see the Bornouese
population, in a purer state. Here it is mixed somewhat with the
Kailouees and other tribes. At any rate, the manners of the people are
somewhat influenced by the great number of foreigners. En-Noor and
Lousou have both houses in Zinder, which the people dignify by the name
of _belad_ or "villages," but which are simply enclosures of a few huts.
I have been endeavouring to collect materials for the statistics of
Zinder. The following note exhibits a partial result:--
Various persons give the population of Zinder at 25,000 or 30,000 souls.
Let us take the number at 20,000.
The military force consists of cavalry and foot--two thousand cavalry
having swords, spears, and shields; and eight or nine thousand bowmen,
having only bows and arrows. This force is commanded by one Shroma Dan
Magram, who receives the enormous pay of half the land taxes of some
fifty towns and villages in the circle of the province of Zinder. The
officers of the Sultan of Zinder are mostly slaves.
The principal personages are Shroma Dan Magram; the Kady, Tahir; the
Bash Kateb, or Secretary, Dang Gambara; the chief of the Treasury,
Nanomi; of the Custom-house, Fokana. There are four officers of the
Treasury, and four of the Custom-house; and, moreover, four Viziers, the
principal of whom is Mustapha Gadalina.
The Arabs do not pay any custom duties, but all the blacks and the
Kailouees and Fullans pay as follows:--
A camel, laden or unladen -- 5000 wadas.
An ass " " -- 100 "
An ox " " -- 100 "
There is no duty on goods, and, whether the camels are laden with rich
burnouses or salt, it is all the same thing.
Camels are very cheap in this country, and the best of all will not
fetch more than 40,000 wadas, or about sixteen Spanish dollars. The
Shereef is to purchase ours, four of them for 120,000 wadas; they cost
about three times the sum in Mourzuk. Horses are not quite so cheap; the
best will fetch 100,000 wadas.[14] The exchange here is the same as in
Kanou; 2500 wadas is the value of the large dollar, or douro ghaleet, as
it is called amongst the Moorish and Arab merchants.
[14] See p. 216.