My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
Salt-Caravan.
_Jan. 6th._--We came seven hours. The weather is always thick, as for
many days past; but the wind not so strong, nor the air so cold. We had
even some drops of rain; and, probably, the rain here is not so
constant, in its fall in summer-time, as is generally supposed. I took
out my last barracan, as some precaution against the threatening clouds.
This barracan excited everybody's attention; every one admired it, and
asked for it. I was plagued to death by the people, and I vowed I would
not take it out again be the weather what it might. The same demand had
been repeatedly made for my poor carpet; so, on the following day, I
took it off from the camel.
An hour before we pitched tent; we passed a town on the top of a hill
composed of huts, some covered with skins, and some made of straw. Our
encampment is in a wady, near a cluster of hovels. The people came
running to welcome us, by offering ghaseb for sale. Two volunteered to
assist us in clearing a clean place for our tents. This being the first
act of spontaneous assistance which we had witnessed from Tripoli to
Damerghou, I gave them each a ring. We are now fairly in Damerghou; and
to-day we saw the first specimens of the culture in this part of Africa.
The ground is cleared by burning, as on the coast; which burning serves
partly to supply the place of manure. The people, apparently slaves,
were burning and raking up the ashes and stubble, with rakes made of
fallen branches of trees. We passed through wide tracts of ghaseb
stubble. Some of the stalks were seven or eight feet high, but the ears
were not larger than those seen at Ghadamez--about eight or nine inches.
Amongst the plants observed yesterday was the cactus, with a smooth
leaf. Water-melons were also found in the road, mostly quite good and
sweet, but some white ones perfectly tasteless. None, even those
cultivated, are equal to the melons of the coast; there are no mealy
ones here.
We were met by a party of Tuaricks, who came to salute En-Noor, mounted
on horseback. As we had had some very rough customers amongst the
Tagama, I took little notice of them, and continued eating my bread and
cheese. At this the people of the caravan laughed. They thought we ought
always to receive these strangers, Tuaricks, with fear and trembling. I
deemed the contrary plan more politic. However, had I known they were
official persons, and one son of a sheikh of a town, I should have given
them a more civil welcome.
_7th._--We came eight hours and a-half south, over an undulating
country, intersected with small wadys, and through ghaseb stubble. All
was wavy ground, and bare of trees. There is, however, a small hill, at
a distance of some ten miles from our encampment, called Boban Birni,
"Great City," of conical form. Numerous villages were scattered along
the whole line of route, a few of some size. The form of the huts is
like that of beehives. Around them are small magazines of ghaseb,
supported on wooden stakes, very like corn-stacks. The inhabitants of
these Damerghou villages are blacks, with features like the Bornouese.
In fact, they speak the Bornou languages, and are said to have been the
product of past razzias in that country by the Tuaricks.
Damerghou is the granary of Asben, and seems to be entirely in
possession of the Asbenouees, nearly all these villages being peopled by
the slaves of the Tuaricks. Some villages, indeed, contain nothing but
slaves.
Few animals were noticed to-day, but we saw four gazelles feeding
together, and some hares. Not many birds appeared, on account of the
fewness of the trees. Only a small portion of the ground is cultivated,
but the camels and cattle are taken to be fed in the waste lands.
We encamped at the village of En-Noor, called Tagelel. The capital of
Damerghou is on the west (N.W.) from this, and is called Olleloa. The
place is governed by Tuaricks.
People say there are two or three hundred towns and villages in the
country. Damerghou is not considered as part of Soudan, because it is
possessed by the Tuaricks; but the country and climate are undoubtedly
the same as all the neighbouring Soudanee territories. The weather was
very warm and oppressive to-day. I fancied I suffered from the change of
climate. I felt not quite well, and was much annoyed by the disobedience
of the servants. Mohammed Tunisee has spoiled them all, and even Yusuf
has done his share of mischief.
_8th._--The weather was warm again this morning. I had a visit from the
female slaves of the village of En-Noor, introduced by the wife of his
highness. I gave them rings and sugar, and sent them off in a good
humour. The country around looks exceedingly bare, almost free from
trees. There is a little herbage for the camels. Ghaseb stubble,
however, spreads all over, which looks well for the industry of the poor
slaves. The karengia has disappeared.
The news of the day goes that En-Noor will take me himself to Zinder. He
probably wants to make acquaintance with the new governor of that place,
as well as to see us safe there. The Tuaricks paid me a visit. I gave
them a bit of sugar, showed them a gun, and got rid of them. A present
of leban from a daughter of En-Noor induced me to give her a ring.
Amankee says the population of this country is very various, but the
Tuaricks of Asben are the masters. The villagers are not all slaves;
there are many free people amongst them,--also Buza in numbers; Tuaricks
who, having settled in Soudan, have forgotten their own language,
speaking only Haussa. Many visitors trouble us, but we hope for a
diminution to-morrow. The people of Damerghou are reported as enormous
thieves, but we have seen as yet but little of their propensities this
way, having, happily, lost nothing.
I made a visit to the village, and was well received by the principal
slave of En-Noor, who presented me with ghaseb-bread, cheese, and furd,
or ghaseb-water. The ladies were singularly complaisant, and one offered
me her friend; another was offered by a man. I believe these offers made
in the way of compliments. In the East, it would not be prudent to take
him at his word who should say, "Everything I have is yours." The huts
of the village are very clean, and are inhabited entirely by slaves of
En-Noor. These villages of Damerghou, at a distance, have the appearance
of Chinese villages, such as I have seen drawn, with eaves cocked up
like the rim of a French hat. The evening was given up to festivities,
the slaves of the caravan uniting with those of the Tagelel. A regular
procession brought the supper from the village to the people of the
caravan, and then the music and dancing began. We had no supper sent.
His highness is amazingly shabby in this respect. He fancies, perhaps,
he could send us nothing better than what we have ourselves got, but he
might try the compliment. We are, however, obliged to him for preventing
others from levying contributions upon us in this new region. The
Tuaricks here--all the strangers--are very civil; on account, I believe,
of our being with the old man. He is of great negative utility.
Overweg went to a lagoon, with little green isles in the midst of it,
and shot some ducks. Ducks! This convinces us that we are now in the
country of water. A wader was shot, and a fine plump bird something like
a partridge, which Mohammed Tunisee calls _poule de Carthage_, but it is
much smaller than those that I have eaten in Tunis. Many aquatic birds
were flying or floating about the lake.
The dancing in the evening was after this fashion. Two men beat drums,
standing on one side of a circle marked. The dancers advanced towards
them with shy and coyish gesture, and then swung round and round to the
opposite side of the circle in a sort of time kept by the beating of the
drum. They threw up their legs, but not in an indecent manner. It was a
kind of simple waltzing. The men were not more violent in action than
the women. Each sex danced separately, the women beginning first and
then retiring. During the performance a song was kept up, a continually
recurring rhyme. When it became dark the male and female slaves made
love, and coquetted together. We, too, had our music; a strolling
minstrel came to our tent by appointment to play on his guitar. He sang
all our praises in very nice Haussa words, and indulged in the most
extraordinary flattery I ever heard. I was Sultan, and had the riches of
the world at my command. _Over_ was the great doctor, and what he could
not cure, God himself could not cure. _Bar_ was the wise man, knowing
all languages and all things. We tried not to be pleased, but in vain.
Flattery is sweet, especially when enveloped in song.
The weather was hot to-day, and sultry. I made many little presents,
some to a fighi of Bornou, a Shoua Arab, who repeated the fatah to us.
It is reported that a great deal of the salt goes with En-Noor to
Zinder, from which we are separated by two days' journey, one of
villages and another of forest.
_9th._--The morning opened with wind, as usual, from the N.E. The
weather was cooler than yesterday. I visited a group of cottages, or
rather huts, and received a present of a korna for holding water. The
thatch of these primitive habitations was of bou rekaba stalks. The
korna is allowed to twine itself over the roofs, as the woodbine over
our cottages, and looks very pretty. This group of cottages was
inhabited by a single family,--alas! all slaves.
According to Overweg, the reason En-Noor beat his wife in the terrible
manner mentioned in this journal was, because she was accustomed to
glide out of her chamber at night to witness the dances--the beastly
dances of the north coast. I certainly was surprised to hear that she
was present at these filthy exhibitions. "Have I not bought you?" his
highness remonstrated with her. "Are you not my slave?" "No." she
replied; "I am your wife, not your slave." So the lady continued, till
she aggravated his highness into a great fury. Many Europeans, it must
be confessed, would beat their wives for a less cause.
It is now said, his highness goes first to Tesaoua. We start all
to-morrow, at any rate. The bells which cover the horses are without
clappers, but being close together they make a great jingling noise by
dashing one against another. Suppers were brought this evening, but the
singing and dancing were not continued. We had, however, at sunset, a
visit from a Hazna dancer,--a perfect specimen of African buffoonery and
jingling. He danced and sung with the wildest barbarity. He had two
followers, to pick up the offerings of the people. They beat two pieces
of stick together to the motion of his legs, hung with bells. The upper
part of his body was naked, whilst the lower part was covered with a red
and yellow apron. This man is said to drink beer, and is a professed
pagan.
I went to the wells, which are bored through the hard red clay, in the
shape of small circular holes, of about fifty feet in depth. There is
very little water at this season, but it is sufficient for the wants of
the village when the salt-caravan is not here.
The inhabitants of Damerghou consist of Kailouee Tuaricks--Bornouese
runaways and slaves--Haussa people, free and slaves--Bousa, or the
descendants of Tuaricks by slaves, and a few Fullanee. This is also the
refuge of dethroned sultans, as well as runaway slaves. There is now
here the Kailouee prince called Maaurgi, who exercised authority some
years since in Aheer. Damerghou, indeed, appears to be common ground,
where every one who pleases, and is strong enough, comes to establish
himself. Many runaways, freemen from Bornou, who had committed some
misdemeanour, being found in this country weak and unable to protect
themselves, were reduced to slavery by a Tuarick prince. The slaves here
answer to the serfs of Russia, with the exception that they may be taken
away and sold in other countries.
_10th._--The morning was cool because of the wind. They held a souk, or
market, to-day near us. Provisions were very cheap. I was greatly amused
to see the small quantities of sunbal which Mahadee had laid out for two
zekkas of ghaseb. For myself I was much plagued by the women, who all
admire my beard; not, certainly, my red nose, which is terribly scorched
and peeled by the sun.
Overweg visited the dethroned Sultan of Asoudee, who is living here in
state, in the midst of his slaves. He holds a sort of court, and,
contrary to the free customs of the Tuaricks, he permits slaves who
approach him to prostrate themselves and throw dust on their heads. He
is the uncle of the present Sultan of Asoudee, and is called Masouarji.
In his fallen condition he gave Overweg a hospitable reception, and a
present of dates, which was duly acknowledged.
Yusuf, refusing to do some translation which I requested him, now
forfeits all claims to my service. I told him, to-day, to go off to
Kanou. Afterwards I arranged with him to go with me to Zinder, where,
before the governor, I hope to get clear of him; for he is now of little
use, and costs me more than all my servants together.
Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm; but, nevertheless, this chap
continues to improve since the arrangement made, by which he becomes
only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however, are still afraid of
him. Yusuf is trying the same system with me, but will probably find
that it will end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee and
Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil all our people. The
liberated slaves from Tunis, brought up by me, have turned out the best
and most faithful servants. I am much pleased with this.
All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with ophthalmia, which is said
to arise from the winds that prevail constantly over this open and
unsheltered country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by drinking
ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough. The Moorish and other
merchants attribute the greater part of their diseases to drinking
water,--especially the fevers. How much truth there is in this assertion
is not easy to be determined.
_11th._--It has been agreed that I and my colleagues should here part
for a time, Dr. Barth going to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and
Maradee, whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder. Dr. Barth
promises to be in Kuka in two months; and Dr. Overweg says he will
immediately correspond, that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter has
the more difficult journey before him; but even Dr. Barth's visit to
Kanou may turn out a more serious business than perhaps he anticipates.
We took leave one of the other with some emotion; for in Central Africa,
those travellers who part and take divergent routes can scarcely count
on all meeting together again.
I also here parted with Amankee, my Haussa servant. He had behaved
indifferently lately, but nevertheless, as he rendered us some service
in the acquirement of the Haussa languages, and in other matters, I made
him a present of four dollars for one extra time he had remained with
us. He had been paid his wages at Mourzuk to go with us to Zinder, but
then we expected to be only three months _en route_. In a moment, just
as we were starting, he changed his mind, and would go to his home at
once. This is his character,--levity and instability,--otherwise he is a
good fellow enough. He is one of those Tuaricks who have settled in
Haussa and forgotten their native tongue. I have been often obliged to
use harsh language to him, to curb his levity. In parting with the
servants of the Germans, I promised them each a present of six dollars
if I heard a good report of them on their arrival at Kuka. This present
is held out as an inducement because it is impossible to tell what may
happen, as the Germans will nearly always be without any special escort.
En-Noor, however, sends one of his slaves with Overweg to Maradee, and
Barth goes with the salt-caravan to Kanou.
I was much disappointed that we made but one hour this morning (south).
To pass the time, I determined to visit some of the villages with which
Damerghou is overscattered. I went first to a place called Fumta Bou
Beker, twenty-five minutes from our encampment. Here I found the Sheikh,
who had just returned from Kanou,--a considerable merchant. He received
me with great hospitality, and gave me ghaseb-water, and some little
pieces of meat, roasted, besides milk. I was accompanied by my stupid
mahadee, who is, nevertheless, not a bad market-man. He purchased a
large calabash of milk, and a peck of beans, for some small pieces of
jaui, or benzoin. I then administered caustic to all the eyes of the
village--at least sixty persons--including men, women, and children,
with the Sheikh. Bad eyes were the only pressing complaints of the
place.
The villagers all spoke Bornouese. I believe this is the general
language of Damerghou. There were only two or three Tuaricks present.
Most of the people were free. The Sheikh, of course, had several slaves;
amongst them a Yakobah slave, with straight lines cicatrised in curious
patterns all over his body. The poor fellow seemed remarkably stupid,
and I believe that many of these poor fellows brought from the more
distant countries of Soudan become half idiots from continually
regretting their beloved country. Alas! what can be done for Africa,
when the greater part of its social system is constructed on slavery?
Curious applications are made for medicines to cure various afflictions,
moral and physical, amongst these people. A woman, to-day, begged for a
medicine to prevent her children from dying. She had had many children,
and all had died. Another woman applies for a medicine to prevent her
husband from liking her rival, and to make him place his affection on
her. A man demands medicine for good luck, and says he is always
unfortunate.--Good people, I am not the physician to be called in in
these cases.
It is night, and En-Noor has not made his appearance. I am travelling
with his wife and the other women; besides, there are a number of male
slaves and some thirty camels of salt. Probably his highness will go
another way to Zinder.
I believe that Fumta Bou Beker is quite an independent village, and that
all the great towns and villages here have an independent jurisdiction
of their own. According to a slave of En-Noor, there are two sultans.
_12th._--The morning was cool and windy. We started pretty early, and
moved one hour through huts scattered amidst the ghaseb stubble. Then
came three hours of undulating ground, uncultivated. Afterwards we fell
in with huts again; and in two hours more reached the conical-shaped
mount called Boban Birni. It consists of a sort of coarse sandstone and
is in part overgrown with herbage. From the encampment to Mount Boban
Birni was a distance of six hours S.W. It can be seen from afar off,
though in reality not very lofty. We passed the mount for two hours
through a forest of dwarf trees; the country still billowy, as it were.
We advanced in all about eight hours, braced by a pleasant north-east
wind. As we advanced we saw ostriches quietly feeding at no great
distance, not heeding our caravan as it murmured by. Partridges rose as
we advanced; together with guinea-hens, blackbirds, crows, black and
white, and several long-tailed flutterers.
_13th._--The morning was overcast, with cold wind. We started early, and
made a long day of nine hours and a-half, and did not encamp until an
hour after dark. Our course, as we ascended from Mount Boban Birni, was
S. 3 deg. E. The country still undulated through the same forest, which in
many places was quite dense, whilst in others the trees were scattered.
When we reached the camping-ground a pleasant announcement was made. We
were at length upon Bornou soil! I could hardly believe my ears. Oh,
marvel, after all our dangers and misgivings! Thanks to Almighty God for
deliverance from the hands of lawless tribes! I shall never forget the
sensation with which I learned that I was at length really in Bornou,
and that the robber Tuarick was in very truth definitively left behind.
Our encampment was near a little village of twenty huts, called
Daazzenai, placed under a rock of red stone. The country of Damerghou,
in this direction, is separated from Bornou by about eleven hours of
forest, or some thirty miles English--a sufficient distance to divide
two countries, especially in Africa. The trees were larger to-day, and
some of considerable altitude. Many pretty yellow blossoms, glowed on a
species of shrub not unlike the laburnum.
I observed scattered in the forest small mounds of mud, wasting away to
the level of the ground; there were many of them; the birds perch
thereon.
We have seen a few nice families amongst the Tuaricks and their slaves,
but these are mostly foreigners. There is the family of the Tripoline
slave; her husband is a pleasant, quiet man, and one of En-Noor's
household; she has a daughter and one cade-lamb. Then there is the
Bornou fighi and his wife. These people are so affable, that they always
have visitors near their little tent. They have also a cade-lamb. Their
tent is a curiosity. It is just large enough for one of them to creep
in--not for two. I suppose the fighi enters at night, and leaves his
wife to sleep at the door.
A detachment of the salt-caravan passed us to-day for Zinder. The whole
force of the salt-caravan this year could not be more than fifteen
hundred. Two divisions were with us of Kailouees, one in advance, each
of five hundred, and the Kilgris' division of five hundred. So much for
the boasted ten thousand camels which were gone this year to bring salt!
From En-Noor one could not possibly get correct statistics, for, being a
thorough Kailouee and a Tuarick, he magnifies everything connected with
his people before strangers, and particularly to us. It was very amusing
to see all the little children warming themselves in the evening at the
fire, or feeding the flames with brushwood, which they easily collected.