CLASSIFICATION
AND
DESCRIPTION.
--------------
Tea as it occurs in commerce is the dried leaves of the tea-plant, and
is generically classified as Green and Black, under which names it is
best known to the public. Commercially, they are classed as China,
Japan, India, Ceylon, and Java teas, but are again divided into numerous
varieties and grades, having terms derived from the districts and
localities of production, or indicative of age, form, or quality, from
the delicate product of the young leaf-bud up to that of the large, old,
and fully expanded leaf. These numerous appellations which distinguish
the commercial qualities of tea being almost entirely of Chinese origin.
CHINA TEAS.
Tea and China are almost synonymous terms. It is indisputably the “Land
of tea.” Its cultivation forms the chief industry of that country, and
has been the largest contributor to the revenue of the government for
centuries, its export being the principal feature of all her foreign
dealings. The welfare of the inhabitants of her fairest provinces depend
on its production. It has been in universal use among them from time
immemorial, forming not only the regular beverage of the people, but
also administering to the luxury of the epicure. They drink it at all
times and under all circumstances from early morning until late at
night, in sickness or in health, working or playing, traveling or
resting, all business being transacted there between two cups of tea. In
brief, it is the natural beverage of the country constituting what wine
is to the French, beer to the German and ale to the English, and but
without which no Chinese family could live or thrive.
Considering all this, the claim under the circumstances that any other
country is the “home of tea,” as is attempted at the present time by
some English writers, is about as futile and absurd as the endeavor to
substitute Americus for Columbus, or Bacon for Shakespeare. And not only
is China the original home of tea, but in addition, _China Tea is the
only true tea, surpassing that of all other countries in every property
and quality constituting and distinguishing tea, and possessing certain
distinctive characteristics peculiar to and contained in no other
variety grown or known_. Yet while grown to a greater or less extent all
over that vast empire, its cultivation for commercial purposes appears
to be chiefly confined to the eastern provinces of Che-kiang, Kiang-see,
Gan-hwuy and Fo-kien, some little also being produced for export in the
western province of Sze-chuan.
China Green Teas
are produced principally in the provinces of Che-kiang, Gan-hwuy and
Kiang-see, and are known to trade as Sunglos, Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows,
Tienkes, Tayshings, Pingsueys, Cantons, and Country green teas, district
terms and grading in the order named. These varieties being again
subdivided into Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons,
Hyson-Pekoes, and Hyson-Skin—appellations denoting age, size, style, or
form of make.
=Sunglo=—Famous in China at one time as the district where Green teas
were first produced, and which were for centuries the finest grown in
that country. Latterly, however, it has greatly declined as a
tea-producing district, the quality also degenerating at the same time,
much of that now sold as “true Sunglo” being only so in name. They are
what is known to trade as “Hill” or high-district tea, natural green in
color, exceedingly well made and prepared, yielding a rich,
straw-colored liquor, clear and sparkling in the cup, fragrant and
aromatic in flavor. The infused leaf is small, symmetrical and uniform
to a high degree, in fact almost perfect in shape, an invariable
indication of youthfulness, fineness and tenderness.
=Mo-Yuen=—Known to trade as “Moyune,” now produces the bulk of the best
Green teas received from China. Grown principally on the plains or
lowlands adjacent to Sunglo from which fact they are sometimes termed
“Garden teas” in contradistinction to the upland or “hill teas,” and to
which they are inferior in make, liquor, and flavor. They are of three
kinds—“Nankin,” “Pakeong,” and “Oochaine”—so named from the “_piens_” or
localities in which they are raised.
=Nankin Moyune=—Is the most valuable, intrinsically and commercially,
being superior to the others in make, color, draw and drink. The dried
leaf is firmly rolled or curled according to “make,” rich, natural green
in color, and extremely uniform in general appearance. The infusion of
the finer grades is light golden in tint, brisk, and pungent in body,
and possessing a flavor peculiar to itself, technically termed “toasty.”
It is deceptive in drink owing to its light color in the cup, the body
being full and heavy, the infused leaf is small, but regular and
well-shaped and of a light-green hue.
=Pakeong=—Differs from Nankin in many respects, though grown in the same
district. The dry leaf is larger and more open, being what is termed
“loosely made,” duller in color and not as highly fired. The finer
grades, however, yield a rich, ripe liquor, comparatively light in color
and delicate in flavor, but lacking in that “toastiness” for which the
former are so much admired.
=Oochaine=—Is a small leaf tea, generally darker in color, heavier in
body and more pungent in flavor, but owing to its small size and
imperfect preparation not as well appreciated as it deserves.
=Hy-chows=—Though raised in the adjoining district to Moyune are
nevertheless much inferior to them in both leaf and liquor. The dry
leaf, while firmly made and regular in form, silvery-green in color and
considered attractive in appearance, is still very deceptive and lacking
in cup qualities. The infusion, although darker in color and fairly
pungent, is light in body and devoid of fragrance, the infused leaf
being dark, coarse and irregular.
=Fy-chows=—Are bold and rough in general appearance, dull in color, dark
and heavy in liquor, and somewhat astringent in flavor, and on the whole
an undesirable sort.
=Tien-kes=—While large and coarse in make are pleasing in the hand,
being chiefly sold on style, as they will not stand the cup test in
comparison with Moyunes. The liquor is dark and thick, astringent and
frequently “smoky” in flavor, due to the high firing in the effort to
make them roll or curl tighter.
=Tai-pings=—Like Tien-kes, look well in the hand, being fairly well-made
and stylish-looking, but of a leaden-blue hue, the result of the
“facing” or coloring-matter used in their preparation in order to
enhance their appearance. The infusion is dark and muddy in the cup,
flat and frequently “earthy” in taste, the infused leaf being large,
coarse, dark and irregular.
=Pingsueys=—Termed by the Chinese _Mien-pan-cha_ or “Bastard tea,”
possess no intrinsic value really as a tea, many experts contending that
they are not even allied to the tea plant, but prepared from the leaves
of some shrub remotely resembling it. The dry leaf is very stylish and
firmly made, but of a leaden-blue color and “greasy” in appearance,
gypsum and Prussian blue being extensively used in their manipulation.
The liquor is dark and heavy, bitterly astringent and “brassy” or
metallic in flavor, while the infused leaf is large, coarse and
irregular in shape, dark-brown in color, and recognizable from its
dissimilarity to the true tea-leaf.
=Canton=—Called by the Chinese _Tchaw-cha_ or “Lie-tea,” is another
spurious variety, manufactured in that city from “spent” or exhausted
tea leaves, that is, from leaves once used and from which the vital
properties have been extracted. They are made by first grinding and
mixing them with a gluey compound to make them adhere, and then rolled
into the form of Imperials and Gunpowders, as they cannot be curled or
twisted, after which they are artificially colored or faced with a
preparation of Prussian blue, kaolin and turmeric. They are smoothly
rolled and leaden-blue in color, having a peculiar greasy external
appearance in the hand, due to the mineral matter used in their
preparation. They do not possess a single physiological property of tea,
yielding only a greenish viscid substance, dark and muddy in color, the
so-called leaves disintegrating and settling in a pasty consistency at
the bottom of the cup, the liquor being devoid of every semblance of
tea.
=Country Greens=—Are uncultivated teas gathered in outlying districts,
rough and uncouth in appearance, bitter and astringent in liquor, wild
or “grassy” in flavor. The leaves when unfurled are exceedingly large,
rough and uncouth in the cups, having every appearance of a wild or
uncultivated tea-leaf.
Sub-Varieties of Green Teas.
=Gunpowder=—Termed by the Chinese _Choo-cha_ or “Pearl tea,” so named
from its small, round and “shotty” form. It is generally prepared from
the smallest and youngest leaves of the tea plant, its quality
corresponding to the picking and district of growth. The product of
first crop is sometimes known as “Pinhead,” from its extremely small,
globular and granulated appearance. That prepared from the second crop
is larger and not as hard rolled, while the third and fourth pickings
are respectively still larger and more irregular in form, but, while
darker and heavier in liquor, they are not near as delicate or fragrant
in flavor.
=Imperial=—Derives its trade name from being the make or style of tea
used in the Imperial household and the wealthier Chinese. That exported
is prepared from the larger and older leaves of the respective pickings
and rolled in the same manner as the former, from which fact it is
sometimes called “Big Gunpowder” and “Pea-leaf.” But while larger and
bolder in make it possesses much the same drawing and drinking
qualities, excepting that it is heavier and darker in liquor and not as
delicate or aromatic in flavor.
The true Imperial tea, known in China as “Flower tea,” not because it is
prepared from the flower or blossom of the tea-plant, as is erroneously
supposed, but from its being considered the “perfection of tea.” This
variety is never exported owing to its limited production and being also
very lightly fired in curing, it is very susceptible to moisture, the
damp of a sea voyage tending to greatly impair its delicate properties.
=Young Hyson=—Is a corruption of the Chinese term, _Yu-he-tsien_ or
“Early spring,” from being picked early in the season. In make the
leaves of the finer grades are extremely small, firmly, if not
artistically twisted, and almost wiry in texture, being prepared from
the youngest and tenderest leaves just expanding. The leaves of the
later pickings are correspondingly larger and looser in make and
appearance, and relatively inferior in drawing and drinking qualities to
the earlier pickings.
=Hyson=—Known to the Chinese as _He-tsien_, “Flourishing spring,” from
being gathered in the full spring-time is a large, loosely-curled leaf,
prepared from the older leaves of the respective pickings which cannot
from their size and lack of succulence be either rolled or curled. They
bear the same relation to Young Hysons that Imperials do to Gunpowder,
and preserving the same characteristics in a relatively minor degree.
=Hyson-Pekoe=—Called by the Chinese “_Loung-tsien_”, literally
“Tea-of-the-wells-of-the-Dragon,” a term used to describe an exceedingly
rare, peculiar and expensive variety of green tea, which, owing to its
extreme tenderness and delicacy and very light firing is never exported.
It has a small, evenly-curled leaf, rich, natural green in color, with
whitish, downy or silvery ends. The infusion is of a pale or
light-golden yellow tinge, clear and sparkling as champagne in the cups
and possessing what the connoisseur would term a simply exquisite aroma
or “bouquet.”
=Hyson-Skin=—Termed by the Chinese _Twankay_ or “Refuse tea,” is
composed of the largest and oldest leaves, screenings or “Fannings” of
the foregoing varieties, that cannot, owing to their coarse or broken
condition, be rolled or curled. It is large, loose and flat in
appearance, varying in color, liquor and flavor according to the grade
from which it is separated in screening. Many of them, however, draw and
drink exceedingly well, making very useful teas for blending purposes.
China Black Teas
comprise Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Scented teas, and are
principally produced in the south-eastern provinces of Fo-kien and
Kiang-nan.
Oolong Teas.
The term Oolong is derived from the Chinese word _Ou-loung_, signifying
“Green dragon,” and is applied to a variety of tea having a small
greenish-yellow leaf permeating through it. They are divided into six
different kinds—Amoys, Foochows, Formosas, Ankois, Saryune, Padrae and
Pekoe-Oolong teas, possessing as many distinct flavors and characters
caused by the variations in soil, climate and mode of preparation.
=Amoy Oolongs=—Are divided into Kokews, Mohea and Ningyong from the
localities where grown, and differ much in size, style and character.
=Kokew=—Is a large, dark, coarse-leaf tea, rough and unsightly in the
hand, but pungent and “grippy” in the cup. The poorer grades possess a
wild or “herby” flavor—a quality, strange to say, appreciated by some
few tea-drinkers, but strongly objected to by the majority of consumers.
=Mohea=—Is a large, light and somewhat “chaffy” leaf tea, light-colored
and light-bodied in the cup, but withal smooth and pleasant in flavor.
But, although lacking in strength, it is a serviceable tea for blending
purposes, particularly in combination with a heavy Congou or Assam, in
the proportion of one of the latter to four parts Mohea, being too thin
when used alone.
=Ningyongs=—Are light in weight, greenish-yellow in color and
stylish-looking in the hand, though not well made or twisted. They are
also very pleasing in the cup, possessing a sort of “hickory-nut” flavor
for which they are much admired, but are thin in body and lacking in
“snap.” It is contended by some experts that if this variety were
converted into a green tea it would rank with a light drawing Moyune in
drinking qualities.
Amoy at one time was the greatest Tea mart in the world, exporting as
much as 500,000 half-chests per annum, but which has now fallen to less
than 50,000, due in part to careless cultivation and indifferent curing.
The lower grades are stemmy, dusty and frequently adulterated with
spurious or exhausted leaves. Many of the finer grades, however, still
turn out splendidly in the cup, rivalling the lower grades of Foochow
and Formosa, being frequently faced and sold for the latter when these
grades are scarce or high. It does not require an expert, however, to
detect the substitution, as they are totally devoid of the fragrant and
“nosey” flavor that so distinguish the latter.
=Foochow Oolongs=—Are produced in the province of Fo-kien, and are,
without exception, the truest and finest variety of the genus tea grown
in any country, China not excepted. They are usually put up in “chops,”
quantities bearing the brand or chop-mark of the grower or packer, which
are again divided. “Lines,” termed in trade, “Firsts,” “Seconds,”
“Thirds,” “Fourths,” and sometimes “Fifths,” denoting the various
pickings and grading in the order named.
The dried leaf of the “Firsts” or finer grades is black and almost
“silky” in texture, exceedingly well twisted and crispy, but not
brittle, yielding rather than breaking when pressed in the hand. While
the infusion is dark-golden in color, rich, round and full bodied, very
mellow and fragrant in flavor, the infused leaf medium in size, very
regular in form and of a rich brown color.
The “Seconds” are somewhat larger in leaf, looser in make, not being
quite as finely or evenly twisted but possessing excellent “cup
qualities,” being the favorite with consumers who prefer full body, to
delicate flavor. The “Thirds” are still looser in make, bolder in style
and darker in liquor, heavier in body, and though not near as high or
fragrant in flavor are, nevertheless useful and serviceable,
particularly when they are composed of what is known as “high district
teas.”
The “Fourths and Fifths,” when there are any, are correspondingly
inferior in quality, the dried leaf of the latter being especially
large, coarse and rough in appearance, brittle and chaffy in the hand,
and frequently dusty or stemmy, dark in draw but thin in body, lacking
in flavor, deteriorating rapidly after infusion, and devoid of the high
character that so distinguishes the former grades of this variety. The
principal “chops” now known to trade comprise the “Tong-mow,”
“Tong-lee,” “Tong-shing,” “Chun-fah,” “Chun-fat,” “Sun-kee,”
“Cheong-kee,” “Com-we” and “Com-wo-kut chops.”
=Formosa Oolongs=—Also known to trade as “Tam-suis,” from being shipped
from that port, are unique in leaf, and flavor differing widely in
character, possessing a rich, natural bouquet entirely unknown to any
other variety. The dried leaf is dark greenish-yellow in color, evenly
and artistically curled, crisp and “crapy” in texture, small, shapely,
uniform, and green when infused, generally “tipped” with a brownish
edge, the result of fermentation. The liquor is bright, clear, and
golden in the cup, body round and mellow, ripe and rich and aromatic in
flavor. A really choice Formosa tea when drawn will fill a room with a
delightful aroma peculiar to itself, difficult to describe, but
variously pronounced as “jessamine,” “cowslip” or “primrose” odor, but
still totally unlike that of any other plant or flower in the vegetable
kingdom, having a “Formosa flavor” pure and simple, attributed to the
soil, and absorbed by the plants during growth, and to preserve which it
has to be continually cultivated in new places. Unlike other varieties
the later pickings of Formosa teas are heavier and stronger than the
earlier gatherings; though sweet and fragrant, are light-bodied and
evanescent. The medium and lower grades are dark-brown in color,
somewhat rough in style, not being as well cured or curled as the finer
sorts. The infusion is also darker in draw, fuller in body, but not near
as fragrant or aromatic in flavor, the finer grades improving as it
cools, the former deteriorating under the same circumstances and
revealing a slightly “herby” taste.
Formosa Oolongs are cultivated by native farmers who have small gardens,
some of whom do not raise over one hundred pounds at a picking, but have
from three to five pickings in a season. Unlike other varieties, the
first picking of Formosa is the poorest, the second crop being better
and the last or autumn crop is best of all. This inversion is due to
climatic causes, the island being visited with heavy rains during
August, after which the warm weather of September causes the plant to
grow luxuriantly, filling the leaf with sap, added to which the moisture
of the atmosphere causes the leaves to ferment quickly during the
process of curing, allowing the manufacturers to cure the leaf without
exposing it to the sun. The great strength of the leaf enables the
manufacturer to fire the leaves longer; the longer they are fired the
longer they will keep, the third crop, or “Autumn teas,” that have been
well-fired improving with time after exposure to the air, the action of
the atmosphere bringing out the fragrance of the tea, the toasty flavor
at the same time disappearing.
=Ankoi-Oolongs=—Are a doubtful species of the genus tea, said to be
prepared from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling yet widely
distinct in structure and character from those of the true plant, found
growing in a wild state on the range of mountains known as the Anke
hills, separating the district of Amoy from Foochow. The leaf, in a
dried state, is rough, coarse and reddish-brown in color, poorly curled
and ragged in general appearance. In the infusion it is dark-brown,
large and irregular in form, notably dissimilar from that of a genuine
tea-leaf in all respects, while the liquor is dark-red, oily or
“earthy,” and bitterly astringent to the taste, qualities contracted
from the presence of oxides in the soil in which they grow.
Intrinsically, this variety possesses no value really as tea, bearing
the same relation to Oolongs that Pingsueys do to Green teas, and
although known to the Chinese as “Bastard tea,” it is extensively used
by them in the reduction of Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or
weedy flavor readily detected in the cup.
=Padrae-Oolong=—Is a scarce sort prepared in the Bohea district from a
species that is unsuited for conversion into plain Oolong. The leaf is
long, black, flattish, but finely made, after the manner of a Souchong,
and closely approximating to the latter in color, liquor and flavor.
They are chiefly exported to the Russian market, where they are much
esteemed for their unique but superb drinking qualities.
=Pekoe-Oolongs=—Are what is known to trade as a “Made tea,” that is,
prepared from leaves which, from their nature or quality, cannot be
converted into an Oolong or Green tea, or from leaves spoiled by
imperfect fermentation, smoke or fire in curing, flavored or scented
with Pekoe in order to disguise or conceal their defects. The dried leaf
is generally long, flat and very black, being over-fired, while the
liquor is dark-wine color, sharp, pungent, but burnt to the taste, and
approaching to that of Tienke green in flavor.
=Saryune=—Is a bold, dark-leaved variety, rather loosely made and
curled. The liquor is heavy, dark, rich and pungent, brisk, but somewhat
burnt in flavor, the result of too high firing. The infused leaf is
medium in size, regular in form, dark-brown in color, with darker edges,
approximating to that of a Congou leaf in color and style.
CONGOU, SOUCHONG AND SCENTED TEAS,
known to trade in this country as “English Breakfast teas,” from having
at one time formed the staple shipment to that country, are produced in
the province of Kiang-see, and are a distinct variety, differing in
color, liquor and flavor from the Oolong sorts. They are cultivated
chiefly on the _Bou-iu_ (Bohea) mountains, in the district of
Woo-e-shan, which, though very sterile in some parts, are literally
covered with tea plantations. More of these varieties are produced than
of all others combined, the product of the Pa-ta-shan range being
classed among the finest grown.
CONGOU TEAS.
The term Congou is a corruption of the Chinese term _Kowng-foo_, meaning
“laborious” or “assiduous sort,” more time and labor being expended on
their manipulation than on the other varieties, and are commercially
divided into Kaisows or “Red-leaf” and Monings or “Black-leaf Congou
teas.”
KAISOW
OR
RED-LEAF CONGOUS
include Chingwos, Seumoo, Suey-kut, Sin-chune, Saryune, Cheong-soo,
Cheong-lok, Cheong-syke, So-how, Yung-how, Wang-hung and Yung-tong
Congou teas.
=Chingwos=—Are the finest of all the red-leaf sorts, particularly when
the crop is good; the dry leaf is well curled or twisted, keeping well
up to a certain point and improving as it matures. The lower grades,
however, deteriorate very rapidly, and in proportion to the openness or
looseness of the leaf on arrival. Its special feature is its delicate
and, to a degree, fragrant flavor which it imparts to other teas in
combination, provided the other teas are not too strong and coarse. The
liquor is not, as a rule, very dark, but reddish in hue, and possessing
a round, mellow flavor, for which it is more esteemed than for its body
or color in the cup.
=Seumoo=—Is a long, bold, somewhat rough-leaved tea, dark-red in color
and “coarse” in flavor. The finer grades are, however, fairly thick and
strong in liquor, many of them although round and full are frequently
dull and flavorless, but combining well with strong Assams. Seumoos make
an excellent base when combined with the latter, the pungency of the
Assam imparting the briskness and body which it lacks when used alone.
=Suey-kut=—Is a brisk but mostly burnt variety, being as a rule, too
highly fired. The dry leaf of the first pickings is evenly twisted,
black and stylish in the hand, its strength and flavor is but average,
and quality generally only fair in the cup. The commoner grades, though
usually well-made and pleasing in appearance, are frequently stemmy or
dusty.
=Sin-chune=—Is neither a large or greatly valued sort, the dry leaf
being loose in make, mixed and ragged in appearance, and objectionably
dusty, while the liquor is hard and dry to dullness, lacking both in
flavor and aroma.
=Saryune=—Is the reddest of the Red-leaf teas, and while one of the most
serviceable of this variety, is not a fine sort by any means, though
often ripe and juicy. The liquor is almost invariably strong and brisk,
but burnt in flavor, the result of too high firing, and with the
exception of a few of the finer grades the leaf is rarely well curled,
being generally open, red and rough in appearance, the second and third
crops being usually very dusty or stemmy.
=Cheong-soo=—Is a scarce sort, varying in quantity and quality from year
to year, but quite a desirable one, particularly when the crop is good;
but fine Cheong-soos are rarely seen in this market.
=Cheong-lok=—Is a tea of negative character, the liquor possessing
little or no strength and the leaf having a rough, red, unsightly
appearance in the hand.
=Cheong-syke=—Is also best described by negatives, the dry leaf being
dark-brown and coarse, the liquor lacking the strength of Sin-chune and
the briskness of Saryune.
=So-how=—Is small and well made in leaf, dark, but rich in liquor, and
smooth and mellow in flavor for this variety of tea.
=Yung-how=—Closely approaches Suey-kut in appearance, drawing and
drinking qualities, but is less burnt in taste and rather stronger, and
more flavory in the infusion.
=Wang-hung and Yung-tong=—Are both high-fired, brisk, but burnt
varieties, dark-red in leaf and liquor, and not, as a general rule,
either useful or valuable sorts to the dealer.
MONING
OR
BLACK-LEAF CONGOUS
comprise Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oopacks, Oonams, Kin-tucks, Kee-muns,
Kiu-kiangs, Panyong, Hapyong, Paklin and Paklums, and constitute the
true Black teas of China.
=Ning-chow=—Is a small, evenly-curled leaf, greyish-black in color and
very stylish in general appearance, the finer grades being
“Pekoe-tipped” and flavored. The infusion is dark red or wine-colored
but delicate and aromatic, more so than that of any tea of this variety,
while the infused leaf is small, tender, symmetrical and of a bright
brown or reddish tendency. The lower grades are fairly thick and strong,
making a useful tea for the retailer, as they keep well and combine
advantageously with most other varieties, less regular and uniform,
browner and given to “choppiness” and dust. The liquor, though of good
color, is not as clear and bright, the infused leaf being more markedly
red than that of the former sorts. The medium and lower grades are
fairly thick in the cup; but have a tendency to become overripe, and
while not keeping, still blend well with a pungent Assam or light-bodied
Oolong tea.
=Oonfa=—While not as finely twisted or as handsome as Ning-chow, is
still the next most important of the Black-leaf Congous. The dried leaf
of the finer grades is bold in make, yielding a dark, heavy liquor,
lacking in fragrance, but proving a desirable sort where body and
strength is required. The medium grades are rough and open, the liquor,
though mostly strong, is often “tarry,” and frequently sour when kept
too long, while the lower grades are thin in body and coarse in flavor,
having nothing to recommend them but their leaf, which is generally free
from dust.
=Oopack=—Grown on the banks of the Yang Tse, a little above Hankow, is a
“crapy” black leaf tea, evenly curled, but somewhat bold in style. When
freshly fired they are flavory and aromatic, but become dull and
“brassy” as the firing wears off, for which reason it is not a good tea
to keep. If used quick, however, it blends well with broken Assam, when
thick and heavy, the commoner grades being fairly smooth and sweet in
the cup, though coarse and rough in the hand.
=Oonams=—Are a class of tea somewhat resembling Oopacks in style and
draw, but preferable to the latter approximating closer to Ning-chow in
flavor. The dry-leaf is also more evenly twisted, smaller and greyer and
the infusion fuller and stronger.
=Kin-tuck=—Is comparatively a new variety, but is rapidly becoming one
of the most important of the Congou sorts, the quality of the choicer
grades being especially good, rivalling the finest Ning-chows,
particularly when the crop is good.
=Kee-mun=—Is another of the newest descriptions of China Congou teas,
possessing many of the characteristics of Kin-tuck, to which it is
closely allied. The dried leaf varies considerably in style and
appearance, some lots having an evenly-curled and handsome leaf, while
others again are brownish and irregular; some of the earlier pickings
possess a peculiar flavor termed “chocolate,” for which they are much
prized.
=Kiu-kiang=—Comes from Hohow, one of the most northern of the Moning
districts, the quality of the finest first pickings being simply superb.
The dry leaf, is black, uniform and free from dust, while the infused
leaf is bright-brown and very regular; but, with all these advantages,
they are lacking in strength or “snap” and consequently are not of such
value as their character on first appearance would seem to indicate.
They deteriorate very rapidly, more so than any other of this variety,
and while the medium grades are a little fuller in body, from the
highest to the lowest the same want of strength is found.
=Panyong=—Is an exceedingly black, “silky” and stylish leaf tea, rich,
strong and mellow in the cup. The finer grades corresponding in value
and quality with those of the same grades of Ning-chow, for which kind
it may be freely substituted in any emergency.
=Hapyongs=—Are medium in size, fairly made and pleasing in the hand,
heavy, dark, smooth and fragrant in the cup. While the infused leaf is
dark, regular and uniform, it is liable to be coarse and dark.
=Paklin=—Is a large and important variety, not very dissimilar to
Ning-chow, but lacking in that roundness and delicacy in the cup, for
which the latter is so highly valued. The dry-leaf of the finer grades
is smaller, more evenly twisted, and blacker than that of any other
grown in China. The infused leaf is bright-red, regular and tender; the
liquor is dark-red, and though lacking in fulness the general cup
qualities of the infusion is of a very superior order.
=Paklum=—While fuller and rounder in body than Paklin, yields a sweet
and pleasant liquor, but is inferior to that of the latter variety in
flavor and aroma. The dried leaf is also very black, fairly made and
often “tippy” in the hand.
Some Congou teas are also produced in other districts of China, being
known to trade as Amoy, Ankoi, Qui-fa, Padrae, Pekoe and Canton Congou
teas.
=Amoy Congou=—Known to trade also as “Swat-how,” is invariably burnt in
flavor, but when the crop is good, is brisk and strong in the cup. The
dry-leaf being coarse and loosely folded, they deteriorate very rapidly,
becoming wild or “weedy” in flavor as they mature.
=Qui-fa=—Is a “tarry” tea, allied to Amoy, but more evenly curled and
blacker in color. The liquor is strong and brisk, and not quite as rank
or bitter as that of the former. The infused leaf is very coarse and
irregular in form, often broken and very dark in color.
=Ankoi Congou=—The difference between Ankoi and Amoy Congou is not very
wide, the former being ranker, if anything. They are generally rougher
in make, dull-black in color, thick and muddy in the cup, bitter and
astringent in flavor, more particularly the commoner grades, which are
in addition broken, stemmy and dusty.
=Padrae-Congou=—Is a strong, high-fired tea, large in leaf, black and
“crispy” in style, and useful only for its great strength and pungency
in the cup. The lower grades are frequently “soapy” or “mousey” in
flavor, and invariably dusty.
=Pekoe-Congou=—Approximates closest to Chingwo in make and general
appearance, but are more artistically twisted and darker in color and
“Pekoe-tipped,” the flavor being sacrificed to style and finish. The
infused leaf is medium sized, regularly formed and reddish in color,
while the liquor is fairly rich, fragrant and pekoe-flavored to a high
degree.
=Canton Congous=—Are principally manufactured teas, being composed of
exhausted leaves, refired and faced with plumbago, or other
coloring-matter, and do not contain the semblance of tea in the cup.
=Campoi=—A corruption of the Chinese term _Chien-pei_, or “Kampoey,”
meaning “selected for firing;” is a particular variety of Congou,
smaller in leaf, darker in color and much better curled, but not as dark
in the infusion. It possesses a more delicate flavor, is not as strong
in body, and being limited in quantity, but little is ever exported.
=Bohea=—Is a term applied in China to a sort composed of old, broken and
inferior leaves, and the refuse of the Congou kinds. It was formerly
largely exported to England, but is now retained chiefly for home
consumption, from its cheapness, by the poorer Chinese.
NEW DISTRICT CONGOUS
comprise “Hoyunes,” “Tayshans,” “Cantons,” “Macaos,” and many others new
to commerce. The finer Hoyunes are a brownish-grey leaf tea, varying in
length and curl, the finer grades of which are round and pungent,
yielding a deep-red liquor and bright-brown infused leaf. The lower
grades, however, are rough and irregular in make, brownish in color and
dull and harsh in flavor. Tayshans and Macaos are among the newest makes
of Congous lately introduced, the former being prepared in imitation of
Moning and the latter of a Kaisow. Many of the new makes, while flavory,
are lacking in strength; others again are strong almost to rankness.
“Ho-how” is the commonest of these descriptions of Congous, the leaf
being large and ragged and form “earthy,” and may be termed the
“Pingsuey” of this variety. There is still another called “Kut-oan,”
recently prepared as an experiment from the leaf of a Green tea plant
grown in the Nankin district and said to be equal in every respect to
the finest Kaisow in leaf, liquor and flavor.
SOUCHONG TEAS
are among the finest and richest of the Black tea sorts, being known to
the Chinese as _Saou-cheong_, “Little,” or “scarce sort,” and are
limited in supply. They are chiefly prepared from the youngest leaves of
the earliest pickings, gathered only in the finest weather, and dried in
the shade to protect them from the direct rays of the sun. The dry leaf
is longer but thinner than that of the Congou sorts; folded rather than
curled or twisted, but possessing somewhat similar drinking qualities.
They are classed in trade as Lapsing, Tong-quam, Padrae, Pekoe, Oolong,
and Canton Souchongs.
=Lapsing=—Prepared in the district of Foochow, is also known to trade as
“Foochow-Souchong,” is a large, handsome, crapy leaf, finely made and
lightly fired, possessing a rich, wine-colored liquor with fragrant
flavor, entirely peculiar to itself, described as “tarry flavor,” which
when not too pronounced adds rather than detracts from its worth. The
product of the later pickings are of less strength and flavor, but are
still very smooth and pleasant in liquor and flavor, and generally
shipped to the Russian market, where they are held in high esteem for
their intrinsic qualities.
=Oolong-Souchong=—Is another variety of the foregoing, prepared from the
leaves of a plant that cannot well be made into either sort, the
greatest care being taken in its manipulation. It is stylish in leaf,
closely approximating to Foochow Oolong in the dried state, very clear,
rich and translucent in the infusion, but though light in weight and
color is yet very deceptive, being full of snap and sparkle, fragrant
and aromatic.
=Tong-quam=—Is a long, flat, black-leaf Souchong tea carefully folded,
but little understood by the general trade, owing to the liquor
possessing nearly the same flavor and pungency as that of a Red-leaf
Congou, usually more round and fuller, the dry leaf being slightly
bolder and blacker in appearance.
=Padrae-Souchong=—Is a jet-black leaf, small and “crapy” in texture,
usually prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the Congou
order, and which it closely resembles in general character and flavor.
The dry leaf is, however, much smaller, flatter and darker, but greatly
excelling them in the delicacy and fragrance of the infusion.
=Pekoe-Souchong=—Is prepared from the leaves that have developed too
much to be converted into the former kind, which is small in size. The
dry leaf is medium-sized, very black and moderately “tipped” at the ends
with a whitish-downy substance termed “pekoe.” In liquor they are
strong, dark, pungent and fragrant in flavor and aroma.
=Canton Souchongs=—Are prepared from old and exhausted leaves collected
in a careless manner, exposed in the sun to dry, and packed in baskets
until they reach that city, where they are refired, colored and scented
in order to disguise their bitter, rank and astringent properties.
SCENTED TEAS
form a special class of the Chinese product comprising Capers, Pekoes
and Pouchong teas, being known to trade as Foochows, Cantons and Macaos.
=Caper=—Known to the Chinese as He-choo-cha, “Black pearl,” or
Gunpowder, from its small, round or spherical appearance, resembling
capers. It is prepared from the largest but most succulent leaves of the
first pickings, and cured by a series of brisk firings and rollings,
after which it is placed in moulds, in order to make it retain its
globular shape. The dried leaf is small, round and “shotty” in
appearance, reddish-black in color, glossy and highly scented. The
infusion is wine-colored, piquant and aromatic, possessing what is
technically termed a rich “bouquet,” the infused leaf, when uncurled,
being very symmetrical in form and dark-brown in color.
=Pekoes=—From the Chinese _Pai-ho_, or _Pak-ho_, signifying “white
down,” is applied to a variety of tea having a whitish downy or
“silvery” tip at the end of the leaves. It is usually prepared from the
youngest and tenderest leaf-buds first expanding, and was at one time
claimed to be composed of the flower or blossom of the tea plant, hence
its French name, “_fleur de thé_,” an error long since corrected, as the
tea blossom possesses none of the properties of the leaf, though
frequently used for scenting purposes.
=Orange-Pekoe=—Recognized by its long, flat, even and artistically
folded leaf, jet-black color, and yellowish downy tips at the ends. It
is highly scented, yielding a rich wine-colored liquor, piquant, pungent
and aromatic in the cup, the infused leaf being small, bright and
closely resembling that of choicest Oolong variety.
=Flowery-Pekoe=—Is a smaller but more evenly folded leaf, greenish-black
or olive-colored, with ends ornamented by whitish, “velvety” tips, being
also very highly scented. The infusion is lighter in color and body but
piquant and aromatic in flavor, the infused leaf small, dark and
perfectly formed.
=Hung-muey=—Is still another variety of Pekoe rarely exported, having a
plain black leaf lightly tipped and lightly scented, and yielding an
infusion dark in color, thin in body, but very fragrant and aromatic in
flavor.
=Pouchong=—Derives its trade name from _Paou-cheong_, meaning “wrapped
sort.” The leaf is rough and bold in style, dull-black in color and
peculiar in scent. The latter being imparted by the admixture of the
seeds of the _Lan-hoa_, or Chulan flower, the finer grades of which are
deep red, rich and pleasing, but the lower ones are often abominable.
=Pouchong-Pekoe=—Is usually prepared from the undeveloped leaves or just
expanding buds of the tea plant, and is a small, glossy-black leaf with
yellowish-golden tips, yielding an intensely rich liquor very piquant
and highly aromatic in flavor.
=Padrae-Pouchong=—Is a medium-sized leaf, exceedingly black in color and
well folded. The liquor is dark, full, round and aromatic in flavor, but
light and thin in body.
=Canton Scented Teas=—Known to trade as _Congee_—“Lic” or “made teas,”
to a large extent being purchased in the natural state, converted into
Capers and Pekoes at will, and doctored or scented up to a certain
standard by contract. They are much higher scented than Foochows, but
lacking in the properties of true tea, less pungent in liquor and devoid
of character or flavor.
=Macao Scented Teas=—Known also as “New district,” are closely allied to
Cantons in make, appearance and character of scent. The dry leaf is
somewhat larger and darker in color, the flavor being dull and peculiar
in the infusion.
The fragrance of Scented teas is not, as is generally supposed, natural
to them, but imparted by the admixture of the flowers, blossoms, leaves,
or oils extracted from the seeds or roots of other plants, such as the
Orange, Jessamine, Chlorantus, Gardenia, and Oleo-fragrans. The leaves
and blossoms of the Iris, Curcunia, and oil of Bixa orelana being also
extensively used. In some districts the scenting material is added to
the tea during the firing process, and afterwards separated by sifting.
It is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is
prepared and ready for packing; one pound of leaves or blossoms being
the usual proportion to each hundred pounds of tea. They are spread over
the top of the tea in the chest and allowed to remain for at least a
day, or until it becomes strongly impregnated by absorbing their
moisture, and then removed, the duration depending on the character of
the scenting employed, the scent increasing after the tea is packed for
export. But though scenting in general is supposed to be confined to the
choicer grades of tea it is as often applied to the inferior sorts, with
the object of disguising or concealing their defective or damaged
condition, and imparting a pleasant odor, a much larger quantity being
used in the latter. The scenting greatly modifies and improves the
flavor, however, without adding any pernicious or deleterious substance
to the tea.
Consumers not accustomed to using these varieties erroneously imagine,
from the dark color of the leaf and liquor, that they are much stronger
and more exciting than that of the Oolong or Green tea sorts. While the
contrary is the case, it requiring one-third more leaf of corresponding
quality to yield an infusion of equal strength than of Oolong or Green
tea sorts. The “smoky” and “tarry” flavors possessed by many of them,
and for which this variety is so remarkable, is due in a great measure
to the use of ill-made charcoal in firing and the use of soft woods
containing tar or pitch, such as fir and pine, in its preparation. The
worst feature about which is that this “smokiness” and “tarriness” does
not develop until long after the teas have left China, and are offered
for sale. It is also a noticeable fact that certain waters serve to
bring out these peculiarities more prominently than others, American
waters in particular.
OTHER CHINESE VARIETIES.
Besides these numerous ordinary teas of commerce, there are several
other varieties cultivated in China, but principally for home
consumption and rarely if ever exported, among which may be mentioned:—
=Suen-cha=—Or “Sweet tea,” made from the leaves of a slender shrub
growing in the western province of Sze-chuan, and peculiar only to that
section. The leaf is large, thick and odorless in the green or natural
state, but when cured exhales a rare and peculiar odor, and possesses a
sweet, liquorice-like taste in the infusion, not altogether pleasant.
=Peh-Yuen-cha=—Or “White cloud tea,” prepared from another rare species
of the tea shrub found near the summit of Mount Ombei in the same
province and most dissimilar in character and flavor from that of the
regular teas of commerce. It yields an aromatic infusion, peculiar but
palatable, and is chiefly used by pilgrims and travelers in that
country.
=Mandarin Tea=—Is still another rare variety, seldom if ever exported,
its use being confined to the Mandarins and aristocracy of China. The
leaf is exceeding small, dark, crisp and tender, lightly fired and
highly scented, commanding as high as fifteen dollars per pound in the
home market.
=Brick Tea=—Is composed of the old leaves, stems, siftings and sweepings
of the Chinese tea hongs, ground fine, moistened and compressed into
shapes somewhat larger than regular building bricks. It has nothing to
recommend it as a tea, being sold chiefly to the Mongols, Tartars and
other tribes of Central Asia, among whom it also serves as a currency.
=Tablet Tea=—Is a “new make” of tea recently introduced in China,
appearing for the first time in the trade returns last year. It is
prepared by machinery from the best quality of tea-dust, formed by
pressure alone into small cakes in the form of tablets perfectly hard
and solid, resembling chocolate in make and appearance. It is not, like
“brick tea,” moistened by steam before being compressed, and the flavor
is not in any way impaired by the process of manufacture. One of the
chief advantages claimed for this form of tea is that, being subjected
to heavy hydraulic pressure, all the cells are broken and the properties
of the tea are more easily and completely extracted by the boiling
water, thus effecting a considerable saving in the quantity required for
a given amount of the beverage. Its principal market is Russia, which
took from China last year over 500,000 pounds in the form of tablets.
=Medicine Tea=—Is prepared from the coarse leaves and stems of the
ordinary tea plant, ground and mixed with medicinal herbs, packed in
bundles and used for medicinal purposes among Asiatic tribes.
=Log-tea=—Is also prepared from the ordinary teas of commerce. It is a
very inferior grade, prepared from the stalks, packed in the shape of
logs, weighing from 8 to 10 pounds, and wrapped in the leaves of the
bambusa, and packed in this manner from motives of economy and freight.
The total production of tea in China is unknown, and can at best be only
roughly estimated, and while we have no certain means of ascertaining
the quantity consumed in that country itself, fair conclusion may be
drawn from the data at hand. Taking the population at 400 millions and
considering that the use of tea is universal among its inhabitants, an
average of five pounds _per capita_ would not be an overestimate, making
a total of two billion pounds alone for home consumption. Again
averaging the product at 100 pounds of cured tea per acre and the total
area under tea cultivation at 20 million acres, if, therefore, we admit
the home consumption of tea in China to be two billion pounds, we cannot
but be surprised at the relatively small quantity which is exported from
that country. According to the latest statistics, we find that the total
exports to all countries from China does not exceed 200 million pounds,
which is less than one-tenth of the total production of that country.
JAPAN TEAS.
Tea is grown for commercial purposes all over the Japanese islands, from
Kiusiu in the south to Niphon in the north, but both in quantity and
quality of their product the central provinces of Hondo are the finest,
particularly that produced in the districts on the coast provinces of
the interior sea. The tea soil of Japan is described as slate
atmospherically dissolved with gypsum and phosphoric acid, produced by
manuring. The system of cultivation and methods of preparation do not
differ materially from those of the Chinese, the first picking, which is
the best, occurring about the beginning of May, the second a month
later, the third is often, however, omitted altogether, in order not to
injure the plants. In Japan the raw leaves are generally sold to the
exporters, by whom they are prepared and converted into the several
descriptions known to commerce.
When a sufficient quantity has been accumulated they are carried to the
hong or “drying house” and first placed in large bamboo baskets, in
which they are subjected to a steam bath for about a minute, after which
process they are spread out in the open air to cool and dry thoroughly,
previous to being fired and curled. Only about five pounds of the leaves
are put in the pans at a time for manipulation, the process being
identical with that of China, with the exception that they are finally
dried in bamboo baskets suspended over the furnaces by cords from the
ceiling for about fifteen minutes. During this time they are gently
agitated by the hands of the operators in order to diffuse the heat and
more thoroughly dry them. They are then removed by a dextrous motion
with fan-like scoops and tossed in the air to free them from dust and
stems, and afterwards picked over by women and children before packing
in the lead-lined chests for export.
In color, flavor and character, Japan teas are totally distinct from any
and all other varieties, the finer grades being exceedingly delicate,
rich and peculiar to themselves. They yield a light-colored liquor, very
fragrant in flavor, but apt to deceive the casual drinker, as after
continued use they are found to possess greater strength and pungency
than most China teas, their effect on the nervous system being very soon
perceptible. They are classed commercially as Yama-shiro, Uji, Kioto,
Yedo, Eisyie, Suringar, Hatchoji, Nagahama, Nagasaki, Tosia and Bancha,
grading in value in the order named, and converted into Pan-fired,
Sun-dried, Basket-fired, Nibs and Siftings, with occasionally small lots
of Pekoe, Congou, Oolong, Imperial, Gunpowder and Young Hyson makes.
=Pan-fired=—The finer grades have a long, well-curled, natural green
leaf, presenting an unbroken appearance, sinking immediately to the
bottom of the cup on infusion, uncurling rapidly and showing more or
less perfect leaves in the infused state. It yields a clear, bright
liquor, which remains unchanged in color and flavor until cold. The
flavor is delicate and fragrant in odor somewhat like that of new-mown
hay. The medium grades are correspondingly rougher in make, darker in
liquor and duller in flavor, while the commoner ones are coarse and
unsightly in style, varying from a greenish to a mottled blue in color,
and possessing a “brassy” or metallic taste, due to the cosmetic or
artificial coloring-matter used in their preparation.
=Sun-dried=—As the name implies, are steamed and dried in the sun before
firing, in order to fix their color permanently. The leaf is
olive-green, well fired, compactly curled and “toasty” in the cup, owing
to their thorough fermentation before firing, and although not as well
appreciated as the Pan-fired, are much superior in drinking properties,
their extra fermentation destroying the “grassy” flavor so
characteristic of many Japans. The lower grades range from a yellowish
to a dull-green, indifferently rolled and often “fishy” in flavor, said
to be contracted from the use of fish manure in the coast districts.
=Basket-fired=—So named from being cured by the “basket process,” and in
contradistinction to those fired in pans. The finer grades are long,
dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, entirely free from stems,
dust and other extraneous matter, clear and bright in liquor, and mellow
or “mealy” in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable
sort for blending purposes. The commoner grades are rough, and uncouth
in style, brownish-black in color, thick and heavy in liquor, but
lacking in “grip” and flavor.
=Kumo=—Or “Spider-leg” Japan, is in reality only a finer grade of
basket-fired; long, narrow, black, and “wirey” in leaf, and elastic in
texture. It is of the Pekoe order in make, but still retaining all the
properties of liquor and flavor of a Japan tea pure and simple.
=Nibs=—Are composed of the refuse of the foregoing kinds, bearing the
same relation to Japans that Twankays do to Green teas, many of them
drawing and drinking exceedingly well, according to the grade separated
from.
Up to 1856 China tea was the only tea used in the United States, but
during that year a small quantity of Japan teas, consisting of about 50
half-chests, was first received in this country. Being found pure and
free from coloring-matter, it soon became very popular with consumers, a
large number of whom had been prejudiced against China green teas at the
time, under the impression that they were more or less artificially
colored. The demand steadily increased, 400 half-chests were imported
the following year, which was increased to 1,100 chests in 1859. About
1860 the Japanese changed their mode of curing, adopting that of the
Chinese as applied to Green teas, with the result of altering the color
from a dark to a light green, and of imparting a high “toasty” or malty
flavor, in lieu of the uncooked or “grassy” taste which characterized
the first importations, since which period and change they have
continued to grow in popular favor. But the supply of Japan teas being
at one time greatly in excess of the demand and the price declining in
many instances below the cost of production, in connection with the fact
that the teas as originally prepared were used only in the American
market, induced the Japanese to convert their surplus leaf into other
varieties, such as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs, Imperials, Gunpowders, and
Young Hysons, in imitation of the Chinese “makes,” with the futile
expectation of popularizing them in England and other countries, where,
heretofore, only very small quantities were consumed. With this
intention Chinese skilled labor was imported into the tea districts to
aid them in the experiment of preparing these makes of teas. The result
proved most unsatisfactory as was anticipated at the time by experts and
others interested in the project, only very small quantities of the
respective kinds being produced occasionally. It is predicted, however,
that all the different descriptions now received from other countries
will be eventually prepared in Japan, in evidence of which a tea
rivalling the finest Formosa in general character is now produced in the
Hondo district from a variety of the Japan plant.
=Japan Pekoe=—Is a long, dark-green, flat leaf tea, usually “tipped,”
but as often not, approaching to that of the India variety in style and
appearance. But while looking remarkably well in the hand and up to
standard in drink, being smooth in liquor and “malty” in flavor, as a
general rule it is through overfiring lacking in the scent and aroma of
the China and even India prototype.
=Japan Congou=—Approximates in many of its leading features to that of
the India species, the cured leaf possessing similar properties to many
of the finer grades of the latter. The infusion is brighter in color but
thinner in body, and more acidulous in flavor, and the reverse of
palatable, owing to its imperfect fermentation and high or overfiring.
=Japan Oolongs=—Although cured in identically the same manner as the
China variety, resemble them only in general contour. The leaf is darker
in color but finer in make, approaching more to the Souchong order. The
infusion is also darker in draw, but very “toasty,” that is, “burnt” in
flavor, owing to too high firing, retaining all the original
peculiarities of a regular Japan tea.
=Japan Imperials, Gunpowders and Young Hysons=—Differ only from the
ordinary Japan teas in form, make and color. Being prepared from the
same leaf, they naturally possess the same general characteristics and
cup qualities; the demand not justifying, they are not produced in any
appreciable quantities.
The production of tea in Japan is constantly increasing and its quality
improving, a wider area being devoted to its cultivation each year,
largely superseding sericulture in many districts. The total area now
under cultivation amounts to nearly 42,000 _Cho_, or about 100,000
acres. The total annual product is estimated at 100,000,000 pounds, a
gain of over 30,000,000 as compared with 1890, of which 40,000,000
pounds, or 44 per cent. of the total production was consumed in the
United States during the fiscal year of 1891. The American taste for
Japan teas continues to grow in proportion, particularly in the
Northwestern and Pacific States, their consumption in this country
nearly doubling that of Oolongs and Congous combined, and trebling that
of Green teas of all makes. This too, notwithstanding the fact that only
a very small proportion of really choice Japan teas are ever exported,
rarely exceeding one per cent. of the entire crop, being principally
retained for home consumption.
INDIA TEAS.
One of the most remarkable circumstances in connection with the
development of the Tea trade is the rapid increase in the production and
consumption of India Teas. Almost unknown to commerce thirty years ago,
they are fast becoming an important factor in the business, particularly
in the English and colonial markets, India being already of such
importance to them as a source of tea supply that it is only a question
of a very short time when the tea consumers of these countries will no
longer regard China as a tea-growing country indispensable to them.
As far as can be ascertained, the first announcement of the discovery of
the tea-plant in India was made in 1833, but owing to imperfect
specimens being sent to botanists for inspection, it was not at the time
considered a true species. It was fully demonstrated, however, in 1835,
when a plant with perfect leaves, flowers and seeds was obtained which
proved on analysis to be a species of the genus tea allied to, but not
identical with that of China; Burmese and Chinese experts, to whom the
specimens were submitted, concurring in the statement. The report being
favorable, an experimental plantation was immediately established under
government auspices with results not known. The first plantation for its
cultivation on a commercial scale was formed in Lukhimpore in 1836, from
which the first samples were received in 1839, and the first sales made
in 1840. But, owing to the unfavorable reports given on the first
samples of the tea prepared from the India leaf, it was rejected by the
London brokers. The propriety of introducing the China species was next
suggested by some planters, and tons of seed were at once imported from
that country, large estates being formed from the plants raised from it.
Many of the plantations were finally composed of hybrids or crosses
between the China and India species, which is now claimed to have been
an error, as the nearer each variety approaches to the indigenous the
higher its excellence.
The tea-producing districts of India are widely scattered, the
largest—Assam—being situated in the extreme northeast of the country
bordering on the Burmese Empire, the others being located on the
northwestern boundary of Nepaul and the Punjaub, while Central India
appears to be entirely devoid of tea gardens up to the present. There
are numerous plantations, however, scattered over the southwestern
provinces of the peninsula, most notably in Wynaad, Neilgherry and
Travancore. In India, tea is grown on extensive estates, often
comprising thousands of acres, situated principally in the alluvial
valleys of large rivers, or formed on land reclaimed from primeval
jungle, possessing all the richness of virgin soil and cultivated either
by the individual owners or the agents of companies commanding
considerable capital. Every detail of cultivation and preparation is
conducted under close and careful European supervisors. The plants are
raised from seed sown in nurseries until they are about 18 inches high,
when they are transplanted to the rows in the gardens in which they are
to grow, the closest attention being paid to weeding and irrigating. The
young trees are carefully pruned periodically and reduced to a bushy
form, until they are from two to three years old, when the first picking
commences, the exact time for picking being determined by the overseer.
The leaves are removed in such a manner as to cause no subsequent injury
to the plants, by which care the India planter is enabled to obtain from
twelve to sixteen pickings in a single season, the Chinese grower being
limited to three or four at the utmost.
Each separate picking in India is termed a “Flush,” a number of flushes
constituting a “Break” or “Chop,” as in China, which is rarely more than
100 chests and frequently as low as 20, but generally uniform in grade.
There is another remarkable feature about India teas; it is that while
the first, second and third pickings of all other teas are respectively
inferior to each other there is nothing in the India pickings to denote
their relationship to any crop or gathering. The number of pickings from
the India plant also varies considerably according to the soil,
situation, garden and season. When all these conditions are favorable,
the plantation will yield as many as sixteen “flushes,” while ordinarily
and often under the most unfavorable conditions five to six are obtained
in a single season.
There is no radical difference between the Chinese and Indian methods of
preparation up to what is termed the “Rolling process;” it being
performed in the latter country very lightly and only by a minimum of
pressure by machinery. Each day’s collection is immediately “withered”
until thoroughly evaporated, when they are as promptly cured and fired.
The processes of fermenting and firing are not as detailed or complete
as in China, the India planter aiming to secure the component properties
of a _strong tea_ at the expense of _flavor_ and keeping qualities. In
India the tea is generally prepared from the young shoots, two leaves
only being picked at a time and “withered” in the open air without any
extraneous aid, much, however, depending on the skill and knowledge of
the operators in arresting the process at the exact moment. When the
proper point is reached they are immediately removed to a “drying” room,
and laid out on trays until the excessive moisture has been dissipated,
this process being hastened by occasional blasts of hot air driven
through by a machine. When sufficient moisture has been extracted they
are placed in a heavy rolling machine and tossed about until all the
cellular tissues are broken, when they begin to curl up tightly, as if
by the action of the hand, after which they are placed in heaps on
tables for some hours to allow them to ferment; the color, meanwhile,
changing from green to a dark bronze during the process.
In the process of “firing” the leaves are spread out in a series of
wire-gauze trays, placed in layers in a hot-air machine, known as a
“Sirocco,” from the fact that the current of vapor arising from it is
suggestive of the hot winds of the desert, and in which the temperature
averages some 300 degrees. These screens are operated either in a
lateral or rotary direction also by steam, the tea being thoroughly
fired in from twenty to twenty-five minutes, and separated into the
different grades at the same time. But on some plantations the tea is
afterwards bulked in large tin-lined cases until a considerable quantity
is accumulated, when it is again lightly fired, the operations of
sorting and grading being again performed by machinery previous to being
packed in the teak-wood chests, in which it is finally shipped. The
curing and firing of tea by hot air and machinery in India is fast
superseding the primitive arrangements and charcoal processes so long in
use in China. Yet though much more rapid and effective in its work, and
certain not to taint the leaves in any manner, it is still an open
question whether the older and slower methods of curing in pans over
charcoal fires is not after all the better one. That the teas are not
properly cured or thoroughly fired by this over-hasty method is
evidenced by the fact that India teas in general are noted for their
great excess of tannin and peculiar raw, “grassy,” uncooked or herby
flavor. But labor and fuel-saving machinery are effecting such economy
in the cultivation and preparation of tea in India as to yearly reduce
the cost of its production. So many improvements for drying, rolling,
firing and sorting are annually being recorded that it is difficult even
to estimate at what figure it may be produced there in the future.
India teas comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, Deradoons, Kumaons,
Dooars, Chittagongs, Juligoories, Rangworths and Neilgherries, district
terms, ranking in the order named, and are converted into Pekoes,
Souchongs, Pekoe-Souchongs, Congous, Broken-leaf and Fannings. In make,
style, color, flavor, and general appearance, India teas resemble most
the Congou sorts of China, but many of them being produced from a
combination of the China and India plants are hybrid in character,
differing essentially from either originals. Most of them possess a
sharp, acrid taste, not to be found in any other variety, and a peculiar
flavor rarely liked by consumers, unless when tempered with the softer
and more mellow China growths, and to neutralize which peculiarity it is
at all times necessary to use only the best India grades. In make they
are in general longer and narrower in leaf, darker in color, more
shapely, better curled or twisted, and finer in texture than the
corresponding Chinese varieties.
=Assams=—Are greyish-black in color, the leaf of the finer grades being
“Pekoe-tipped” and evenly curled. The liquor is unusually strong and
pungent, in addition to being thick and heavy in body. The infused leaf
dark-brown, with a reddish tinge, and almost perfect in form.
=Cachars=—Are blacker in color, but not as well curled or even in
appearance. The liquor is softer and occasionally “fruity,” approaching
a burnt flavor, while the infused leaf is larger, darker and not as
finely shaped.
=Darjeeling=—Is a hybrid variety, produced from a cross between the
China and India species, and partaking somewhat of the character of
both. It is still blacker in the dry leaf, but on an average not as
finely curled, and while full in body is not as pungent or flavory in
the cup. The infused leaf is more bright, tender, shapely and “salmony”
red in color.
=Kangras=—As a rule are dark and symmetrical in leaf, light in liquor,
but delicate and aromatic in flavor. The infused leaf is reddish-brown
in color, with dark or burnt edges, but perfect in shape and form.
=Deradoon=—Is a high-fired tea, loosely made and deteriorating rapidly,
becoming sour on exposure to the air. Occasionally the flavor is
“earthy,” analagous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reason they are
not much sought after.
=Kumaon=—Is generally converted into Green teas, including Imperials,
Gunpowders, and Hysons, all being prepared from the same leaf. The chief
difference lies in their make and color, as they still retain all the
characteristics of liquor and flavor of India teas.
=Chittagongs=—Are strong, thick and heavy in the cup; “nutty” in flavor
and considered good, useful teas for blending purposes, from their great
strength and positive character, for which qualities they are always in
good demand.
=Dooars=—Approximate to Cachars in color, make and general appearance,
strong, but rough in liquor, pungent and pleasing in flavor, a valuable
tea for blending, imparting tone and character to any combination in
which they may be used.
=Neilgherry=—Is a very inferior sort, bearing the same relation to India
teas that Ankois do to Oolongs and Pingsueys to Green teas. The leaf in
general is black, coarse, “tippy,” rough and unsightly in the hand,
while the liquor is thin, muddy and rank or “weedy” in flavor.
=Travancore=—Is a “new district” tea, which, like all new teas, is large
and coarse in leaf, heavy and dark in liquor, and strong and wild or
“grassy” in flavor.
=Juligoorie and Rangworths=—Are bold in style, rather rough in make, but
regular and well developed. The liquor is thick and rich in color, rough
or “rasping” in flavor, but occasionally smooth and “toasty,” while the
infused leaves are bright and well formed as a rule.
SUB-VARIETIES OF INDIA TEA.
=India Pekoes=—Are ordinarily of a greyish-black hue, with a fair
sprinkling of grayish-yellow tips, downy in appearance, while the liquor
is very strong, brisk and pungent, varying in quality and flavor
according to the district of production.
=Orange-Pekoe=—Is a small, evenly-curled leaf, having a yellowish or
golden “tip” at the ends. In liquor and flavor it approximates close to
plain Pekoe, being devoid of scent, that many growers make no
distinction between them.
=Flowery-Pekoe=—Is not picked from the plant, but separated from the
other grades, only the buds and youngest leaves being selected. The
cured leaf is small, uniform and tender, silvery-green in color,
although highly-fired, pale but strong in liquor, approaching that of a
Moyune Green in flavor, being very deceptive in strength and
astringency. The infused leaf is symmetrical in form, small and
light-green in color, approaching that of a Foochow Oolong in appearance
in the cup.
=Souchong=—Forms the bulk of the India product and may be classed as the
“Standard grade;” the qualifications for being comprehended under this
rating are its even, straight, slightly curled leaf, dark color, stylish
appearance and greater quantity. Yet while its liquor does not possess
the deep strength and pungency of the Pekoe sorts, it is generally full
and round in body and mellow or “malty” in flavor.
=Pekoe-Souchong=—Is a term applied to Pekoe leaves devoid of tips, as
well as to Souchong containing a fair sprinkling of tipped leaves. But,
as a general rule, it is an unassorted tea, composed principally of the
larger and coarser leaves of both Pekoe and Souchong that will not pass
through the sieves, and possessing in the cup the distinctive properties
of the combination.
=India Congou=—Is a tea of the Souchong order too large to be made into
that kind or a smaller leaf unevenly prepared. In liquor and flavor it
is much the same as Souchong, but is not always as heavy, strong or
mellow in flavor.
=Broken-leaf=—As its name implies, is composed of a mixture of the
various kinds broken in manipulation, and is a term of great
comprehensiveness, as it may include all the lower grades or approach
the choicest kinds in character and value. It varies in color from brown
to blackish, its strength being seldom great, though the flavor of the
finer grades is, in general, good; that of the commoner ones being poor,
thin and coarse.
=India Bohea=—Consists chiefly of the old and coarser leaves which do
not attain a desirable black color in firing, being devoid of sap. The
leaf is generally brown, sometimes yellowish in color, the liquor
possessing scarcely any strength, usually coarse and rough in flavor,
and never of much value at any time.
=Fannings=—Are composed of the refuse, much broken leaves and dust of
all the preceding kinds, and bear the same relation to India teas that
Twankays do to Green and Nibs to Japan teas.
=Namuna=—In Hindostanee literally means “Sample,” being accidentally
applied to a class of India tea, possessing great strength and high,
peculiar flavor not confined to any particular district or plantation.
The dry leaf may have the regular grayish-black hue, or be of a
greenish-black color, the green leaves being intermixed and distinct
from the black ones. It invariably yields a pale, corn-yellow colored
liquor, resembling that of Oolong, heavier and stronger than ordinary
Pekoe, and in flavor like a Moyune, yet distinct from the former and not
as pungent as the latter. Frequently, however, it is intermingled with a
nasty black leaf, the flavor of which is destroyed by over-firing, the
green leaves being due to deficient or under-firing.
There are many serious objections to the general use of India teas, one
of which is the great excess of _tannin_ (tannic acid) which they
contain, ranging from 13 to 18 per cent. in this variety, and to which
property tea owes its astringency, constipating effect on the bowels and
the ink-black color which it imparts to water containing salts of iron.
In England a crusade is being preached against their use by medical
authorities on this account, the marked increase in dyspeptic and
nervous diseases in that country being attributed to their general
consumption there. Some experts argue that by a shorter
infusion—sufficiently long to extract the theine with less of the
tannin—this serious defect may be eventually remedied. Such, however, is
not the case, as experiments made with it at three and five minute
infusions have still shown an excess of tannin, in addition to that of
making the liquor raw, herby, and entirely unsatisfactory in flavor. The
same time-tests resulting in favor of both China and Japan teas, and
which, judging by the bitterness and astringency, the amount of tannin
yielded by India teas in a five-minute draw is incredible. While China
teas, under the same conditions, possesses little or no trace of tannic
acid, or offending the most sensitive palate or constitution, but on the
contrary being both pleasing and refreshing to the most sensitive
natures. Another distinct and dubious feature of India teas is the
formation of a gummy or oily film which settles on top of the infusion
when drawn, and claimed to be very injurious to the nervous system and
digestive organs. When first infused this substance is scarcely
discernible, but just as soon as the liquor begins to cool this opaque
coating forms and develops on top. It is of an oily, creamy or gummy
nature, forming a thin layer of a dull, whitish-brown color, more dense
than the liquor and changing to a darker shade as it cools. Its nature
or effect has not yet been definitely determined, but sufficient is
known to prove that it is particularly unwholesome, for their selection
is also more difficult than that of any other variety owing to their
well-known tendency to early decay, becoming sour and rancid on short
exposure to the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere, the greatest
caution having to be exercised in avoiding those that will not keep for
any length of time owing to this most objectionable peculiarity, losing
flavor quicker and decaying faster than any other kinds, not even
excepting low-grade Japans. This loss of flavor and rapid decay is
greater in some sorts than in others, the grades most easily affected in
this manner being the highly-fired, light-flavored and open-leaf makes.
The demand for India teas in this country is only limited, owing to the
present taste of consumers, and there appears little hope of any
increase in the future. What little is sold being used chiefly for
blending with the softer and more mellow-flavored teas of China; the
India grades supplying the absent quality of strength to the latter.
Strenuous efforts have and are being made to introduce them, but so far
with indifferent success. The character of the liquor after the infusion
is so entirely foreign in body, color, flavor and aroma from that of the
China and Japan sorts to which the people have been accustomed, and
which appears to be an inherited taste, so deeply is it set, that little
or no progress can be made in these attempts. The great strength,
pungency and pronounced flavor of the choicer grades rendering them
valuable only for blending purposes. Still it is difficult to
overestimate the importance of India as a source of tea supply. Twenty
years ago it furnished only about 10,000,000 pounds to the world’s
supply, but so rapidly has its production increased that the crop for
1892 is estimated at 110,000,000 pounds. Its consumption in England is
annually increasing, the total deliverance for that year being
103,000,000 pounds as against 99,000,000 pounds for 1890, while for 1889
the increase was upwards of 12,000,000 pounds over that of 1888. These
enormous strides in the consumption of India teas in England is only
equalled by that of Ceylon teas, the British public demanding strong,
dark liquoring teas irrespective of flavor, aroma or effect.
CEYLON TEAS.
The tea-plant, though claimed to have been first introduced into Ceylon
by the English, who, on principle, “claim everything,” was originally
carried by the Dutch from China to that island as early as 1800,
notwithstanding that Percival maintains that it was first discovered
there in a wild state. But while it is admitted that a species known as
_Matara_ was found in some parts of the island, later investigation
proved that it had no relation whatever to that of the regular teas of
commerce. Tennant, in 1842, was the first Englishman to speak of Ceylon
as a possible tea-growing country, but the highly profitable cultivation
of coffee at that time attracted so much public attention that the
article which has since proved to be the real wealth of the island was
heedlessly overlooked, so that it is not too much to say that the
present high position of Ceylon as a tea-producing country has been to a
great extent entirely due to accident, it being only after the outbreak
of the coffee-pest in 1870 that tea was first looked upon as a possible
source of profit. When utter ruin seemed the only fate of the planters,
it was suggested that they turn their attention to the cultivation of
tea. A commission was duly appointed to visit the tea districts of
India, and report upon the desirability of introducing the tea-plant
into Ceylon. Very tardily, indeed, at first did the planters come to
regard the experiment in the light of a paying speculation, for old
habits and prejudices were strong, inducing them to cling with
persistency to the hope that the coffee-plague would ultimately
disappear, and it was only as a last resource that they decided to turn
their attention to tea-culture on that island. The first plantation was
started with plants received from China; the result, however, proved a
financial failure, the first tea produced therefrom costing $25 per
pound. Other spasmodic efforts were made later, until it was finally
admitted that tea-culture could be made a success on the island, when a
rush was made for estates for tea-growing purposes. The progress made
was small at the beginning, many of those who planted tea doing so under
the conviction that the industry would not pay, abandoning the scheme
almost at the outset.
Ceylon eventually began its career as a tea-growing country under the
most favorable circumstances; all the mythical hallucinations about tea
cultivation having been removed, the disastrous experience of India
saving Ceylon from falling into any serious error at the outset. Several
India planters settled on the island, bringing with them a knowledge of
its proper cultivation and preparation, so that when these facts are
taken into consideration, the success which has attended its cultivation
in Ceylon is not so much to be wondered at. The island also possessed
other advantages over India in that it suffers less from drought, the
rains are more regular and equable, there being scarcely a month in the
year without at least some rain, and apart from the adaptability of its
soil and climate, it has cheaper labor and superior facilities for
forwarding the tea to the shipping ports, all important factors in its
cultivation for profit. The tea-producing districts of the island are
very compact, having Kandy as its chief centre and extending well into
the southwestern provinces touching the coast toward the west. The
southwestern section of the island is considered a perfect tea-growing
district, soil is good, the climate hot and moist, and the plant can be
cultivated at almost any elevation, several plantations there being
situated as high as 6,000 feet above sea-level. But although the crops
are fairly healthy at this altitude, it is admitted that the plantations
lower down are best adapted for the production of the finer grades. The
first successful garden was established in 1870 in the now celebrated
Loocandura estate, with plants brought from Calcutta, and coolies
skilled in its cultivation and manipulation. Tea of particularly good
quality was produced from the beginning, samples of which were sent to
London and highly spoken of by dealers there. Since that time tea
cultivation in Ceylon has made steady progress if not rapid strides.
The plant chiefly grown in Ceylon is a hybrid—the _Manipur_ or
indigenous tea of Manipari (India)—is also extensively planted there,
being equally hardy and suitable to the soil of the island, which is of
a light, sandy nature, thickly intermixed with iron-sandstone, this
mineral being peculiarly attractive to the tea-plant. The methods of
cultivation and preparation are similar in every respect to those in
vogue in India. The land is carefully drained and weeded, the trees are
not allowed to grow too high, being reduced to a bushy form and picked
when they are from two to three years old, according to site and
elevation, and the tea prepared from the tender shoots only, caution
being exercised not to injure the plants or future flushes checked.
Picking the leaf is carried on all the year round in Ceylon, except
during pruning time, when the plants do not “flush” for two months, with
which exception they flush every week, from each shoot of which the two
top-leaves with the young shoot and half the third or coarser leaf are
only plucked at a time. At 4 o’clock each evening the day’s “picking” is
carried to the factory and the leaves laid out on the “withering” mats,
which are stretched one above the other from poles or racks until the
next morning, when the leaf is sufficiently evaporated, being rendered
soft, pliable, and easy to roll by that time. The next process, that of
“Rolling,” is one to which special attention is paid, as it is mainly to
this system that the quality of the tea depends. The previously withered
leaves are put into the roller, which is operated by hand or steam
power, 100 pounds at a time placed in an upper box of the machine and
pressed down with weights on the table or lower portion of the machine.
The box containing the pressed tea travels with a circular motion round
the table, by which the leaves are pressed, twisted and rolled as they
come in contact with the small battens fitted into the centre of the
table. After an hour the pressure is increased until at the finish it is
from four to five hundred pounds on the leaves, the juice thus expressed
being carefully collected and poured back into the roller every now and
again until it is all absorbed by the crushed and twisted mass of
leaves. When the rolling process is finished, the leaves are then placed
on trays holding from 20 to 25 pounds, covered with a wet cloth and
allowed to ferment from two to four hours according to the weather, or
until they become a bright-copper color, when they are again rolled from
a half to an hour according to fancy, after which they are ready for
firing.
The “Sirocco machine” for firing tea-leaves by hot air has also
superseded the pan or “Charcoal process” in Ceylon. The leaves having
been laid out on wire-gauze trays, they are passed through this
“hot-air” machine, in which they become thoroughly fired Tea in from
twenty to twenty-five minutes, after which it is placed in sieves, which
are worked either in a lateral or revolving direction by the aid of
steam or manual power, and the different grades are sifted out, the
larger and coarser leaves which do not pass through the sieves falling
into a “cutter,” where they are cut to a uniform size. On estates where
they bulk the Tea, in Ceylon, the result of the day’s work is placed in
enormous air-tight lead-lined chests, where it remains until a
sufficient quantity to form a “Break” or “Chop” is accumulated, which is
generally once per week. The chest is then opened from the bottom and
the tea bulked, after which it is lightly fired again and packed into
the teak-wood chests for shipment. Light iron chests, coated inside and
out with lead, and a lid to screw on, are now being extensively used by
many estates for the better shipment of teas in both India and Ceylon.
Ceylon teas derive their trade names from the estates or plantations on
which they are grown, being classed commercially as “Loocanduris,”
“Matagalas,” “Ruan-wallas,” “Kanda-loyas,” “Semba-watties,” “Windsor
Forests,” “Narangallas,” “Rakuwana,” “Madulsuma” and “Kandapole,” the
finest being produced in the districts of Dunbula and Dolosbagie. Like
India teas, they are principally converted into Pekoes, Souchongs,
Pekoe-Souchongs, Congous, Broken-leaf, and Fannings. Their strength and
flavor, like those of their India prototypes, varying greatly in quality
in accordance with the elevation at which they are grown, their
uniformity also varying from year to year as in the India districts.
Some of the better grades resemble Cachars and Darjeelings, being full
and strong in liquor, but frequently “toasty” or burnt in flavor, while
the lower grades are decidedly inferior to the corresponding China
grades in flavor and fragrance. A feature about the later shipments most
to be regretted is that the planters appear to be making the same
mistake that the Chinese and Japanese have made, that of sacrificing
quality to quantity in their eagerness to get rich too fast.
=Ceylon-Pekoes=—Are of three kinds, “Plain,” “Silver,” and “Golden-tip”
Pekoes. The former is a small, plain black-leaf tea, lightly “tipped”
and finely made. The liquor is bright and fairly heavy in body and
fragrant so far as this term applies to this variety, but is not adapted
to the American taste.
=Silver-tip Pekoe=—Is a long, whitish-downy leaf almost “satiny” in
texture, with silvery tips at the ends. The liquor is dark-yellow or
golden, bright and sparkling in the cup, delicate and fragrant in
flavor, but very much overrated in commercial value and intrinsic merit.
=Golden-tip Pekoe=—Is smaller in make, darker in color, “silky” in
texture, and literally ablaze with rich yellow or orange tips. The
infusion is much darker and heavier in body, of a deep wine color, fresh
and piquant in taste, and much appreciated by those who prefer this
variety.
=Ceylon Souchong=—Is rather large and bold in style for this “make” of
tea, but is nevertheless heavy and round in body, rich and mellow in
flavor, and, taken altogether, a pleasing and palatable tea for all
practical purposes.
=Pekoe-Souchong=—Is chiefly composed of the larger and coarser leaves
that will not pass through the sieves, but which, falling into the
“cutter” in sifting, are cut up into an even and uniform size. It is
medium in size, “choppy” in appearance, ripe and rich in liquor, fairly
brisk and “malty” in flavor.
=Ceylon Congous=—Are open, rough and coarse in style, dark in liquor,
heavy in body, but fairly brisk and pungent in flavor, making, on the
whole, a serviceable tea for blending with Chinese Congous or Oolongs of
the lower grades.
=“Bhud” Tea=—Is a term applied to a small golden-yellow leaf Ceylon Tea,
claimed to be composed of the buds of the plant just expanding, but is
in reality prepared from the smallest and yellowest leaves of the
ordinary “Golden-tip Pekoe,” and though sometimes commanding a
fabulously high and inflated price, out of all reason with its intrinsic
value as a tea, and which is only done for advertising purposes—being in
reality no better in either drawing or drinking qualities.
=Broken Leaf=—Like those of the India variety, are composed of the
large, old and mutilated leaves separated in sifting from all or either
of the foregoing kinds, drawing and drinking in ratio to the variety
obtained from.
=Fannings=—Also, like their Indian prototype, are prepared from the
screenings and refuse of leaves of the respective kinds, but are poor
teas to handle as a rule.
As late as 1873 there were only 255 acres under tea cultivation in
Ceylon, the total area at present time reaching as high as 150,000
acres, with an average yield of 1,000 pounds per acre, figures which go
to show the marvelous strides the island has made in the industry in a
comparatively few years, large tracts being still taken up for the
purpose. The total product in 1888 was 23,000,000 pounds, as against
13,000,000 pounds for the previous year, an increase of 10,000,000
pounds in a single year, a record never even approached in the history
of the tea trade. And, when it is taken into consideration that it is
only a few years since tea cultivation was practically commenced on that
island, it is obvious that the future of its product must be very bright
indeed. It is already predicted by planters and others interested that
the tea export of Ceylon will eventually rival, if not exceed, that of
India itself. The average cost of Tea to the Ceylon producers is about
6½ pence (13 cents) per pound, some of the lowland estates putting their
teas f. o. b. in Colombo at even less than this figure.
Nearly all the India and Ceylon teas go into consumption in England and
her possessions, the bulk of her China purchases being re-exported. The
English merchants invariably favoring the products of their own colonies
to the prejudice of those of other countries, discriminating against
them, irrespective of merit or value, in this particular instance
compelling their customers, in a measure, to use these dubious varieties
of the genus tea. But for presumption and audacity in their claims of
superiority the India and Ceylon tea growers and dealers are far and
away ahead of all competition. The so-called great favor with which
India and Ceylon teas are said to be regarded by British consumers being
due in a great measure to the energy and persistency with which the
trade has been pushed, the teas being literally _forced_ on the public
by the Government as well as by the English growers and dealers, in
addition to the strong ties of relationship connecting the planters with
the mother country. There is not the slightest doubt but that the check
which the consumption of China teas appears to have sustained in England
is entirely due to these causes. But already there is a growing and
positive revulsion of taste in many sections of that country in favor of
the purer China teas, owing to their truer character, greater delicacy
and richness of flavor.
The chief and only advantages that India and Ceylon teas possess over
those of China and Japan are their great strength and thickness in the
cup, which are due mainly to the modern methods of fermentation and
firing by steam and machinery. China and Japan teas excel them in flavor
and aroma, occupying in regard to them a position analogous to that of
French wines, in comparison with those of other countries. The product
of the latter may be stronger and heavier in body, but for richness of
flavor and delicacy of aroma—essential qualities in both wine and
tea—the French grape and China tea-leaf stand alone and unrivalled for
their intrinsic merits, as well as for their being the only true teas,
in all that constitutes tea. Broadly stated, the predominant features of
India and Ceylon teas are _body_ and _strength_, those of China and
Japan _flavor_ and _aroma_.
There is also this difference between them, that while a given quantity
of India and Ceylon teas will yield a larger amount of a darker-colored
liquor and stronger in flavor than that of a similar quantity of China
and Japan, they still lack the richness and delicacy of the latter, if
not indeed the properties of a true tea altogether. Again, as to how
much liquor an equal quantity of the former will yield in comparison
with a similar weight of the latter, is another mooted question. As far
as quantity, color and body are concerned, it must be admitted that
India and Ceylon teas are once and a half greater. But in flavor and
aroma, the essential qualities that constitute and are most appreciated
in tea, China and Japan teas far excel them. Thus if one pound of China
or Japan teas yields five gallons of extract of a certain weight,
strength and color, one pound of India or Ceylon will produce seven and
a half gallons of a similar beverage, but will be devoid of that
fragrant flavor and rich aroma so characteristic of the China and Japan
product. The value of tea, intrinsically and commercially, depending
principally upon the character and flavor of the infusion, as well as
the aroma imparted to it by the volatile oil.
Ceylon, like India teas, will not keep as long or as well as either
China or Japan, becoming sour and rancid by exposure in a few months,
defects attributed to the method of curing, but in reality inherent in
them. Again the latter contain a larger percentage of the active
principle (_theine_) and less of the astringent property (_tannin_), and
are consequently less injurious and more refreshing. The great excess of
the latter property in both India and Ceylon teas accounting for their
dark color, and harsh, pungent taste in the infusion, as well as being
the unsuspected cause of the indigestion and nervousness among those who
use them to any extent. So that in view of the strenuous efforts now
made to introduce India and Ceylon teas into the American market, it may
be well to here caution consumers against their injurious and
deleterious effects on the human system, such injury being caused, not
alone by the excess of tannin, but also by the sap or juice of the
natural leaf not being sufficiently expressed before the leaves are
fired by proper fermentation. It being claimed by physicians and others
that to the fixed and general use of these teas in England is
attributable the great increase of heart-burn, flatulency, nervousness
and dyspepsia among the people of that country.
Against the dubious and questionable advantages of body and strength so
loudly vaunted in India and Ceylon teas, China and Japan possess
others—greater and more important ones—among which are that the
tea-grower in the latter countries working his own land in smaller
quantities brings greater care and more industry to the task. Again in
the methods of curing and firing the leaf, the latter have also the
advantage of superiority, as it is now generally admitted by experts and
others interested in the business that though the “Sirocco” or hot-air
process may be more rapid in its work and certain not to taint the
leaves in any way, it is yet open to doubt whether the older, slower,
and more natural method of firing in pans over charcoal fires is not the
better, more thorough and effective in its results than the new and
artificial one. The Chinese and Japanese have been curing and firing
teas by that method for centuries, and they surely ought to be the best
judges by this time. To sum up, India and Ceylon may produce _stronger_
and more _powerful_ teas if that can be called a recommendation, but for
_smoothness of liquor, richness and delicacy of flavor_, such as are
essential to every-day, universal consumption, the China tea-leaf and
French grape stand and will continue to stand unrivalled. India and
Ceylon may claim to be the teas of to-day, but it remains to be seen
whether that day be long or short, as in my humble opinion, without
laying any claim to the prophetic, the teas of the future as in the past
will be China and Japan teas.
JAVA TEAS.
Tea culture was introduced to the Island of Java in 1826, the seeds and
plants being obtained from Japan for the purpose. The plants having
thrived beyond expectation, a plantation of 800 trees was formed the
following year in the residency of Buitenzorg, although samples of tea
grown elsewhere on the island were shown at an exhibition held in
Amsterdam in 1828. Another plantation was subsequently established in
the district of Carvet in Preanger, from which its cultivation later
extended to Krawang and other residencies in the island. So successful
was the progress made that in 1833 the number of trees in the latter
residency was returned at more than 500,000. Up to 1842 tea was
cultivated in Java exclusively for Government account and under the
immediate supervision of its own officials, nearly 14,000,000 trees
being in bearing there that year. But the number of laborers required
for its cultivation and manipulation becoming so large, the supervision
so difficult, and the results so unsatisfactory, the Government was
eventually compelled to relinquish many of its plantations to private
parties, contracting at the same time to purchase their product at a
fixed price. This change proved beneficial, resulting in a still further
extension and improvement in its culture; the contracts with the
Government being entirely annulled after seven years’ trial, and the
industry being left to private energy and capital, without control or
interference, it soon developed to large proportions.
In Java the best teas are grown at an elevation ranging from 3,000 to
4,000 feet above sea-level, the finest being produced on the mountain
slopes, in the residencies of Preanger, Bagelen and Banjœmas. Nothing
could be more attractive than the plantations situated on these ranges,
each containing from 70,000 to 100,000 plants in perennial bloom and
giving employment to from twenty-five to thirty families of native
laborers. The methods of cultivation and preparation are much the same
as in Japan, though latterly the India system is being largely adopted,
both Black and Green teas being prepared at will from the leaf of the
same plants. The seeds are first sown in nurseries, from which the young
plants, when old enough, are set out in line, at a uniform distance of
four feet from each other. The trees are never allowed to exceed two and
a half feet in height, and are much more prolific than either the China
or India species, the leaves being picked from them all the year round.
They are known to commerce under the appellations of “Preangers,”
“Krawangs,” “Cheribons,” “Bagelens” and “Banjœmas” teas, and usually
converted into Pekoe, Souchong, Pekoe-Souchong, Congous, Oolongs and
Imperials, Broken-leaf and Siftings after the India and Ceylon manner.
The leaves for the different “makes” are sorted during picking and
graded according to size, the smallest and tenderest being converted
into Pekoe, the medium size into Souchongs, and the largest and oldest
into Congous, Oolongs, Imperials and Broken-leaf teas.
=Java Pekoe=—Is a small, jet-black leaf, lightly tipped with yellowish
ends. The liquor is extremely dark, almost black in color, heavy and
thick in body, bitter and astringent in flavor, and entirely unsuited to
the average taste.
=Java Souchongs=—Are composed of the older and coarser leaves of the
tea-plant. They are bold in style, black in color, dark in draw, thick
in body, and exceedingly strong in flavor, too much so to use alone.
=Pekoe-Souchongs=—Comprise the older and coarser leaves of the
respective pickings, considered too large for conversion into Pekoe and
too small for Souchong, possessing the same characteristics in draw and
drink of both the latter varieties.
=Java Congous=—Are large, rough, loosely made teas, dark in liquor,
heavy in body, and strong to rankness in flavor, on the whole a most
undesirable sort for any purpose, becoming rancid and sour when kept too
long.
=Java Oolongs=—Are Java tea pure and simple, made in imitation of China
Oolongs, but possessing nothing of the properties or characteristics of
the latter, only the name.
=Java Green Teas=—Include Imperial Hysons and Young Hysons, but are only
so in name, as they still possess all the peculiarities of Java tea in
draw and drinking qualities.
Java teas in general are particularly small in leaf, dull-black in
color, but exceedingly well made and handsome in appearance, almost
perfect in style, approximating more to Indias in make, color and
character, but do not keep well, becoming rank and sour on brief
exposure to the atmosphere. The liquor of all of them is also deficient
in strength and flavor, being devoid of any pronounced fragrance or
distinctive aroma, defects attributable in a great measure to faulty and
imperfect manufacture, as well as to the fact that they are picked from
the plants the year round and allowed no resting or recuperating period.
The annual product averages about 15,000,000 pounds, packed in large
wooden cases weighing from 100 to 120 pounds, and shipped principally to
Holland, Germany and England, only small lots occasionally being
received in this country.
At the present time the cultivation of tea is mainly confined to the
province of Preanger, in the western part of the island, the industry
being in the hands of experienced planters, who spare no pains to
increase the product and quality of the article. Notwithstanding their
care, however, they cannot congratulate themselves on the profits
resulting therefrom, the price continuing to fall, the planters being
forced to expend their utmost energies to save their plantations from
ruin, this being not only the case with recent enterprises, but also
with the older plantations that have been flourishing for many years. In
addition to decline in price, the Java tea plantations have been ravaged
by an insect known as the _Theluis_ (tea louse), which each year
destroys in value hundreds of thousands of florins, but at the same time
there is noticeable a distinct improvement in the quality of the tea
produced there. Until very recently they were only used in Europe when
mixed with China teas on account of the excessive quantity of tannin
which they contain, and known tendency to rapid decay, the improvement
in quality now rendering that process needless, the introduction of
Assam plants enabling the planters to compete with India and Ceylon.
OTHER VARIETIES OF TEA.
=African Teas=—It is expected that both India and Ceylon will doubtless
have in the near future a formidable rival to their tea industry in
South Africa, where promising tea gardens have been extensively laid out
by planters from India, with seeds and plants obtained from Ceylon. The
soil and climate of the region around Natal particularly are very
similar to those of Southern India, and especially favorable to the
successful and profitable production of the tea plant. Recent reports
pronounce the venture a complete success, the product in 1892 amounting
to over 20,000 pounds of tea, although introduced only three years prior
and grading in quality with the average teas of Ceylon and India. It is
predicted that in a few years South Africa will not only rival but excel
the latter countries not only in the quantity but also in the quality of
their product.
=Singapore Tea=—Tea plantations have been recently formed in the
districts of Johore and Seragoon, from seeds and plants imported from
India, but as yet are only in an experimental stage. Samples already
received are large in leaf, coarse in make, coal black in color, an
effort being made to imitate Oolongs in style. The infusion is dark red,
heavy, strong and somewhat astringent in flavor.
=Perak Tea=—Recently an invoice consisting of some eighty half chests of
tea grown in the Straits settlements was shipped to London. The general
quality was so favorably commented on by the brokers and dealers there
that it found a ready sale at full prices for its kind.
=Fiji Tea=—Is another new addition to the constantly increasing teas of
commerce. It is produced from plants imported from India and assorted
into Pekoes, Congous and Souchongs, grading with and approximating to
Java teas in style, color and character.
=Caravan Tea=—Is simply a fine Lapsing or Padrae Souchong, put up in
Hankow for the Russian market, and transported overland by caravan
through Bokhara and Central Asia to Moscow and Petersburg.
=Russian Tea=—Grown in the district of Transcaucasia, consists largely
of the leaves of a shrub possessing the botanical name of _Vacinium
staphylos_, which when infused yields a decoction having some
resemblance to the ordinary teas of commerce, but is acrid and
nauseating in flavor. They are generally prepared for the express
purpose of mixing with inferior China tea, and also with exhausted
leaves, that is, tea once used, dried and rolled again.
=American Tea=—Samples of tea grown in South Carolina have lately been
received in the New York market and tested there by experts, who
pronounce them only fair in quality, and ranking them with the India,
Ceylon and teas of that character.
=Hop Tea=—Is a species of tea now being prepared from common hops in the
Kent district in England, prepared and cured by the “Sirocco” process,
after the manner of India tea, and used chiefly to blend with the
ordinary teas of commerce, the combination resembling a mixture of
Virginia smoking tobacco and a rough-leaved Assam tea. It is claimed to
be healthy and wholesome, from the fact that the _lapulin_ of the hops
counteracts or neutralizes the excess of _tannin_ contained in the India
teas, but nearly doubles it in price.
PARAGUAYAN TEA.
=Yerba Maté=, or “Paraguayan tea,” which although not entering into
general use or commerce, is yet deserving of notice in this work from
its extensive consumption among the inhabitants of South America. It is
prepared from the leaves and stems of the _Ilex_, a species of holly
found growing in a wild state in that country. In size and appearance it
closely resembles an orange tree, having a whitish bark and leafy,
tufted boughs, with leaves four inches long when full grown, dark-green
in color, thick, glossy and crenate at the edges, pale on the lower
surface and containing the same active principle, _Theine_, so
characteristic of China tea. The flowers or blossoms are small and
white, hanging in clusters at the angles of the leaves, the fruit or
berries being red, smooth and similar to those of the common holly. So
closely does it approach the tea of China in effect, that many
authorities claim it to be a species of that plant, yielding a liquor
similar in many respects. But while not containing as much volatile oil
as the latter, owing to the primitive manner in which it is prepared, it
nevertheless yields a most agreeable and refreshing beverage, enjoyed by
many and forming the staple drink of millions of the inhabitants of
Paraguay and other South American countries.
Expeditions to collect and prepare it start annually from the capital to
the _Yerbales_ or groves in the interior, taking extra mules and
bullocks to bring the dried leaves back. On reaching the forests
_Tatacuas_ or camps are formed by clearing the ground and beating it
down with heavy mallets until it is sufficiently hard and level for the
purpose. The leaf in the natural state is from four to five inches long,
thick, leathery, glossy and serrated at the edges, and is prepared for
use in a network made from raw-hide straps stretched on posts,
underneath which wood fires are kindled. The leaves and stems, as they
are collected, are placed on these nets and scorched, care being taken
only that they do not ignite or burn too much—in which state they
closely resemble senna. When sufficiently scorched they are ground, in
some instances, into a coarse powder in a rude wooden mill, weighed and
packed for export in large bullock hides, holding from 200 to 250 pounds
each and left to dry and tighten in the sun for a few days, becoming
meanwhile as hard and impervious as stone. This method of curing is very
defective, as the stems and other extraneous matter imparts a “woody”
flavor to the infusion which is otherwise very agreeable and refreshing.
It is prepared for use in a kind of filter or perforated bowl called
_Maté_, from which it derives its trade name. The infusion is yellowish
in color, almost syrupy in body, possessing an “herby” or weedy flavor,
bitterish in taste, much disliked at first by those unaccustomed to its
use, but nevertheless pleasant, wholesome and refreshing, pleasanter
still when cold, and while approaching in its chemical composition to
the regular teas of commerce it does not cause the wakefulness or
nervousness attributed to the latter.
In the smaller towns and rural districts of South America it is regarded
as a regular form of diet, and not, like ordinary tea, a mere
accompaniment to the meal, being looked upon as a necessary, as well as
a luxury, by the inhabitants, and is the first thing offered a visitor
when entering a house, the table being rarely without it. The _gaucho_
of the plains will travel for weeks asking no better fare than a little
dried beef, washed down with copious drafts of _Maté_, the Indian
carriers subsisting for days together on it alone, in short, being to
them what the tea of China is to its inhabitants, essential and
indispensable. The Government has a monopoly of its sale, a heavy duty
being imposed on its exportation, forming the principal source of its
revenue. The popular method of preparing it in Paraguay is to mix large
proportions of raw sugar with a decoction made from the powder or leaves
until a thick syrup is produced, when it is ready for drinking, the
nourishing properties attributed to the infusion by the natives, it is
contended, being due, in a great measure, to the excess of saccharine
matter. It ranges in price from four to eight cents per pound in the
prepared state, one pound yielding as much as twenty quarts of the
infusion of moderate strength. It is difficult to get at any reliable
returns for the entire traffic in this commodity, the production being
carried on in such a crude and desultory manner, extending, as it does,
over a vast area of wild country, the official returns furnishing only
an approximate estimate of its trade and consumption. The total
production may, however, be computed at 1,500,000 arobas, equivalent to
about 40,000,000 pounds per annum, the total consumption averaging
thirteen pounds _per capita_ to the population, as against two pounds of
coffee and one-fourth pound of China tea. Its use is confined chiefly to
Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentine, Peru, Chili and Brazil. Its consumption in
Paraguay and Argentine alone is over 35,000,000 pounds per annum, as
against 5,000,000 pounds of coffee. Surprising as this large quantity
may appear at first sight, it is explained by the fact that _Maté_
constitutes the only vegetable nourishment of many classes in these
communities, forming, as it does, the chief dietic beverage of over
20,000,000 of people in South America alone. Yet it is singular, to say
the least, that its consumption should be so great in such large
coffee-producing countries, and which export annually over half the
world’s supply of that commodity. Strong efforts are being made at the
present time to open up a trade in it in Europe, particularly in France,
where the cafés now advertise it among their regular beverages, and
shops devoted to its exclusive sale also recommend it. But whether these
efforts will succeed remains to be proven, considering the enormous
increase in the production of so many other teas and their established
consumption.
TRADE GRADINGS OF TEA.
A Standard Invoice of Green tea contains a number of “Lines,” made up as
follows: Gunpowder, No. 1 and 2 and 3; Imperial, No. 1, 2 and 3; Young
Hyson, No. 1, 2 and 3. There being rarely more than two lines of Hyson,
and never more than one of Twankay.
A “Chop” of Oolongs comprises four, sometimes five, “Lines” termed
“Firsts,” “Seconds,” “Thirds,” “Fourths” and “Fifths,” when any, which
are again subdivided into “Brackets” or “Numbers,” ranging from one to
ten but similar in grade.
An Invoice of “English Breakfast teas” includes a quantity of Capers,
Pekoes, Congou and Souchong teas, graded and classed according to the
district of production, by which terms they are best known to trade.
A Standard Invoice of Japans embrace some Pan-fired, Sun-dried and
Basket-fired teas with occasionally other makes, also ranking according
to the different districts.
A “Break” or “chop” of India or Ceylon include Pekoes, Congous,
Pekoe-Souchongs, Broken-leaf and Fannings, and are best known to trade
by their plantation names and district appellations.
The term “Muster” means Sample-package or chest, the name on top of
label the vessel, route or “chop,” the initials in centre those of the
importer. The names at bottom such as “Tong-mow,” “Tong-lee,” grower or
packer, and the Chinese character on inside of package. “Chop mark,”
denoting the “chop” or picking, which cannot always be relied on, as
shippers are apt to put on that which has the best reputation, or which
happens to be most in demand the season of shipping.
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