BOOK X. THE FISHERMAN [1]_Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome

_Lib. X. Halieus_

CHAP. I. DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH.

CHAP. II. MURENAS.

CHAP. III. EEL.

The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts.

[432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH

_IUS DIABOTANON _[2]_ PRO _[3]_ PISCE FRIXO_

USE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4]

AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY,

AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY,

REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN

SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces.

Apparently it is by a different author than Books

I-VIII, which have many formulæ for fish. While we have

no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book X

is a Roman version of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a

monograph, of which there existed many, according to

Athenæus, which specialized on the various departments

of cookery.

[2] Tor. _Diabotom_ (in Greek characters); Greek,

relating to herbs.

[3] Tor. G.-V. _in_.

[4] G.-V. _salsas_.

[433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH

_IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY,

VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU

WISH [it to be richer, add] RAISINS.

[434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH

_ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION, [hard] BOILED

YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL AND BROTH.

[1] Tor. _frixo_--fried fish, although his heading reads

_elixo_.

[435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH

_ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT SALT, CORIANDER SEED,

CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT

AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE RETIRE

[the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR AND SERVE.

[1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in

principle the North American Indian method of cooking

whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour and water

made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no

"pressure cooker" is available.

This formula cannot be classified under "Sauce for

Boiled Fish."

[436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH

_ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT PAN WITH CORIANDER

SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND

SERVE [1].

[1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the

one hand, of the directions, and of the superfluity, on

the other hand, of words such as the initial and the

closing words, which characterizes so many of the

formulæ. This is characteristic of ever so many culinary

authors of all ages, who, lacking literary training,

assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the

methods indicated. A versatile modern author would have

said: "Poach the filleted fish in small water seasoned

with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with

vinegar before serving." He mentioned neither the salt

nor the oil which he undoubtedly used.

[437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH

_IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_

PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED,

STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH

VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT.

[1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river

Nile, third of the three great cities of antiquity

excepting Carthage during Apicius' time a rival of Rome

and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a

Mediterranean port, where fishing and fish eating was

(and still is) good.

[2] G.-V. _mulsum_, mead.

[438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH

_ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, RAISIN WINE,

BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER.

[439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH

_ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES,

RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, AND COOK.

[440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER

_IUS IN CONGRO ASSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD YOLKS, WINE,

MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND COOK.

G.-V. _Gongo_.

[441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1]

_IUS IN CORNUTAM_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, HONEY,

VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2]

[1] _Cornuta_, _cornutus_--"horned," "having horns"--an

unidentified sea fish.

[2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulæ for sauces

into one.

[442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET

_IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL;

HEAT AND POUR OVER [1].

[1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet,

while salt mullet was treated in the preceding formulæ.

[443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET

_ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_

RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,--ALL OF THEM GREEN--PEPPER, LOVAGE,

HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL.

[444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY

_IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, SEEDLESS RAISINS [1],

RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL, AND COOK.

[1] Wanting in Tor.

[445]

THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED ADD HONEY.

[446] SAUCE FOR PERCH

_IUS IN PERCAM_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE,

MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST; COOK IT.

[1] _Perca_, perch--sea perch or sea bass.

[447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER

_CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE,

RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX.

[1] _Rubellio_--a "reddish" fish; perhaps a species of

the red-mullet or red-snapper. Hum. says the Latins

called the fish _rubelliones_, _rubellos_ and _rubros_;

the Greeks _erythrinos_ or _erythricos_, because of

their reddish color. A fish, according to Athenæus

similar to the _pager_ or _pagrus_, _phager_ or

_phagrus_, also called _pagur_, which is not quite

identified.

[448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA

_IUS IN MURENA [ASSA]_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES,

WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3].

[1] V. doubting that this is broiled.

[2] Tor. _Crocomagma_; List. _crocum magnum_, still used

today in some fish preparations, particularly in the

Bouillabaisse.

[3] The laconic style in which all these fish

preparations are given, is very confusing to the

uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients

were used to season the water in which to boil fish; or,

to make a _court-bouillon_, a fish-essence of the bones

and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the

sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in

the moment of serving was bound with roux or with yolks,

and the fish was masked with this sauce. The exceptions

from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish

was broiled or fried.

[449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA

_IUS IN MURENA ASSA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH,

REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT.

[450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA

_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, PINE NUTS, HONEY,

VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.

[1] _Nepeta montana_--nep.

[451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1]

_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS,

RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH

ROUX.

[1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V.

[2] Tac.; wanting in Tor.

[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA

_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, FIGDATES,

MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE.

[1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor.

_rhus Syriacum_--Syrian Sumach.

The originals are considerably confused on the above and

the following formulæ.

[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA

_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE,

HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2].

[1] See note to {Rx} No. 452.

[2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction

of {Rx} No. 452, as this is wanting in the other

editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula.

In Tac. the above formula follows the next.

[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH

_IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH,

WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL

SAUCE BOAT [1].

[1] _in lance_; _lanx_ may also mean a large oblong

platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration

Oval Dish with Handles.

Horace II Sat. 8--_in patina porrecta_--a special dish

to hold the cooked _murena_ and to display it to

advantage.

Such special dishes are found in any good table service,

to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks

and knives were used for fish service which have been

gradually discarded.

[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH

_IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A

LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2].

[1] _Lacertus_, an unidentified sea fish.

[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448.

In G.-V. this formula precedes the above.

[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH

_IUS IN PISCE ASSO_

A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME,

GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT

AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX.

[1] Tor. wanting in others.

[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY

_IUS IN THYNNO_

TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER,

CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND

OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2].

[1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting

in others.

[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY

_IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig

wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2].

[1] _Condimenta mortaria_--herbs crushed in the

"mortar"; also pulverized spices.

[2] "and tie" wanting in List. Leave it out, and you

have an acceptable _vinaigrette_--a cold sauce for cold

fish.

[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH

_IUS IN DENTICE ASSO_ [1]

SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE,

CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL;

HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.

[1] _Dentex_; Hum. _dentex forma auratæ similis, verum

major_--the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape,

though larger.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] _Malum Cydonicum._

[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH

_IN DENTICE ELIXO_ [1]

PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH,

WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.

[1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor.

[461] SAUCE FOR DORY

_IUS IN PISCE AURATA_ [1]

A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY,

ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY,

VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO.

[1] _Aurata_--the "golden" dory. Very esteemed fish.

Martial, III, Ep. 90:

_Non omnis laudem preliúmque aurate meretur:

Sed cui solus erit concha Lucrina cibus_

[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.

[462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY.

_IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA_

A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY CONSISTS OF [1]

PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY,

VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH AND OIL.

[463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1]

_IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO_

PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH,

MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE.

[1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above

ingredients; the cold meat is separated from the shell

and is eaten with _vinaigrette_ sauce.

[464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH

_IN PISCE {OE}NOGARUM_

CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE;

HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE.

[465] ANOTHER WAY

_ALITER_

THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX.

III

EEL

[466] SAUCE FOR EEL

_IUS IN ANGUILLAM_

EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH HAS [1] PEPPER,

CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4],

HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST.

[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually

it follows pepper. We have finally accounted for this

peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, treats

"pepper" and "lovage" as one spice, whereas we have kept

the two separate. He believed it to be a certain kind of

pepper--_piper Ligusticum_. _Piper_, as a matter of

fact, stands for pepper, and _Ligusticum_ is the herb,

Lovage, an umbelliferous plant, also called

_Levisticum_. The fact that the two words are here

separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the

dark about this matter almost to the end.

One wonders why he did not change or correct this error

in the preceding books. His marginal errata prove that

his work was being printed as he wrote it, or furnished

copy therefor--namely in installments. Since the

printer's type was limited, each sheet was printed in

the complete edition, and the type was then used over

again for the next sheet.

[3] Tor. _thun_.

[4] Wanting in Tor.

[467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL

_ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, HARD YOLKS,

MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.

END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS

_CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT_ [Tac.]

{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP

With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain the walls of a

theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature and garlands of flowers

and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, torches, masks and musical

instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.}

{Illustration: OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503

From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503.

Identical with the two previous editions except for very minor

variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were

painted in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center

of the square being the cue for the rubricator. This practice, a

remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the

printing of books became commercialized.}

{Transcription:

Laseratum Oxyporum Oxygarum digestibile

Oenogarum in tubera Hypotrima Mortaria

¶ Ciminatum in ostrea de conchiliis.

Apicii Celii epimeles Incipit liber primus conditum paradoxum.

Conditi Paradoxi compositio: mellis partes. xv.

in æneum uas mittuntur in præmissis inde sextariis

duobus ut in cocturam mellis uinum decoques.

quod igni lento: & aridis lignis calefactum

comotum ferula dum coquitur. Si efferuere

c{oe}perit uini rore compescitur preter quod subtracto igni

in se redit. cum perfrixerit rursus accenditur Hoc secundo ac tertio

fiet ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur cum

piperis unciis iiii. iam triti masticis scrupulo. iii. folii & croci

dragmæ singulæ. dactilorum ossibus torridis quinque hisdem dactilis

uino mollitis intercedente prius suffusione uini de suo modo ac

numero: ut tritura lenis habeatur: his omnibus paratis supermittes

uini lenis sextaria. xviii. carbones perfecto addere duo milia.

¶ Conditum meliromum.

Ulatorum conditum meliromum perpetuum quod subministratur

per uiam peregrinanti. pp tritum cum melle despumato in cupellam

mittis conditi loco. & ad mouendum quantum sit bibendum

tantum aut mellis proferas: aut uinum inferas: sed suaserit non nihil

uini meliromo mittas adiiciendum propter exitum solutiorem.

¶ Absynthium romanum.

Absynthium romanum sic facies. Conditi camerini præceptis

utique pro absynthio cessante: in cuius uicem absynthi

ponthici purgati terembitique unciam thebaicam dabis.

masticis folii. iii. scrupulos senos. croci scrupulos. iii. uini

eiusmodi sextarios. xviii. carbones amaritudo non exigit.}

THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS

{Illustration: BREVIS PIMENTORUM

Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts

from Apicius by Vinidarius.}

{Transcription:

BREVIS PIMENTORUM QUÆ IN DOMO ESSE DEBEANT

UT CONDIMENTIS NIHIL DESIT;

crocum, piper, zingiber, lasar, folium, baca murræ,

costum, cariofilum, spica indica, addena, cardamomum,

spica nardi. De seminibus hoc.

dapaber, semen rudæ, baca rutæ, baca lauri, semen

aneti, semen api, semen feniculi, semen ligustici,

semen erucæ, semen coriandri, cuminum anesum,

petro silenum, careum, sisama

Apici excerpta. a Vinidario vir intut

De siccis hoc

lasaris radices, menta, nepeta, saluia, cuppressum,

oricanum, zyniperum, cepa gentima, bacas timmi,

coriandrum, piretrum, citri fastinaca, cepa ascalonia,

radices iunci, anet puleium, ciperum

alium, ospera, samsucum, innula, silpium, cardamomum.

De liquoribus hoc.

mel, defritum, carinum, apiperium, passum.

De nucleis hoc.

nuces maiores nuclos pineos ac midula aballana.

De pomis siccis hoc.

damascena, datilos, uva, passa, granata. hæc

omnia in loco sicco pone ne odorem et virtutem

perdant. Brevis cyborum.

caccabina minore. ii. caccabina fusile. iii. ofellas

garatas. iiii. ofellas assas. v. aliter ofellas.

vi. ofellas graton. vii. pisces, scorpiones}

{Illustration: CACCABUS

Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the

mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.}

THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS

BY VINIDARIUS

THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN

_Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri_

FIFTH CENTURY

Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy.

Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is

known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made

certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial

codex of Salmasius, sæc. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318.

Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his

predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these

recipes in the Apicius text of his editions, in appropriate places, as

he thought. This course cannot be recommended, although the recipes

should form an integral part of any Apicius edition.

M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat.

Lex. XV, 64, ff. says distinctly: "These excerpts have nothing to do

with the ten books of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each

other ..." and other researchers have expressed the same opinion.

Vollmer, however, does not share this view.

If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the

excerpts are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill

certain gaps in the Apicius text, although the language is strongly

vulgarized which may be readily expected to be the case in the age of

Vinidarius.

The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the

close relation existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was

the Greek physician to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living

in Italy. He was not acquainted with Apicius.

SUMMARY OF SPICES

_BREVIS PIMENTORUM_ [1]

WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT THERE MAY BE NOTHING

WANTING [in the line of condiments]: SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER,

LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2],

INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD.

[1] _Pigmentorum_--_specierum_--spices. The old

_pigmentum_ is really any coloring matter; the word,

corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for sweet

red pepper and also for allspice.

[2] _Cariofilu_--_cærefolium_--_Chærephyllon_; Fr.

_Cerfeuille_; Ger. _Kerbel_. This should be among the

herbs.

[3] Not identified.

OF SEEDS [to be on hand]

_DE SEMINIBUS HOC_

POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, ANISE SEED, CELERY

SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN,

DILL, PARSLEY SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM.

OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand]

_DE SICCIS HOC_

LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, JUNIPER, SHALLOTS,

BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS,

ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH,

GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, CARDAMOM.

[1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though

the word _bacas_ would be out of place there.

[2] _Ospera_, i.e., _Osperios_.

[3] _Samsucu_, i.e., _sampsuchum_ Elderberries?

[4] Not identified; perhaps _laurus innubus_, dried

virgin laurel leaves.

OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand]

_DE LIQUORIBUS HOC_

HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] RAISIN WINE.

[1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some

other honey preparation, maybe, _piperatum_, pepper

sauce.

OF NUTS [to be on hand]

_DE NUCLEIS HOC_

LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS [filberts] [2].

[1] _Acmidula_, i.e., _amygdala_.

[2] _Aballana_--_abellana_--_abellinæ_--_avellana_; Fr.

_avelline_.

OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand]

_DE POMIS SICCIS HOC_

DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES.

ALL OF THESE THINGS STORE IN A DRY PLACE SO THAT THEY MAY LOSE NEITHER

FLAVOR NOR [other] VIRTUES.

SUMMARY OF DISHES [1]

_BREUIS CYBORV_ [1]

I. CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN

_CACCABINA MINORE_

II. STUFFED CHARTREUSE

_CACCABINA FUSILE_

III. BRAISED CUTLETS

_OFELLAS GARATAS_

IV. ROAST MEAT BALLS

_OFELLAS ASSAS_

V. GLAZED CUTLETS

_ALITER OFELLAS_

VI. MEAT BALLS WITH LASER

_OFELLAS GRATON_

VII. SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS

_PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS_

VIII. ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED

_PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_

IX. FRIED FISH

_ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_

X. ROAST [Grilled] FISH

_PISCES ASSOS_

XI. FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE

_PISCES INOTOGONON_

XII. SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING

_SARDAS_

XIII. FISH STEWED IN WINE

_ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON_

XIV. STEWED MULLET WITH DILL

_MULLOS ANETATOS_

XV. MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE

_ALITER MULLOS_

XVI. MURENA AND EEL

_MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS_

XVII. SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL

_LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS_

XVIII. BOILED FISH

_PISCES ELIXOS_

XIX. A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS

_PATINAS OBORUM_

XX. SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE

_PORCELLO CORIANDRATU_

XXI. SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE

_PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU_

XXII. PORK, PAN GRAVY

_PORCELLO EO IURE_

XXIII. PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME

_PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU_

XXIV. PICKLED PORK

_PORCELLU EXOZOME_

XXV. LASER [sauce for] PORK

_PORCELLU LASARATU_

XXVI. SAUCE FOR PORK

_PORCELLU IUSCELLU_

XXVII. PLAIN LAMB

_AGNU SIMPLICE_

XXVIII. KID AND LASER

_HEDU LASARATU_

XXIX. THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE

_TURDOS APONTOMENUS_

XXX. TURTLEDOVES

_TURTURES_

XXXI. SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE

_IUS IN PERDICES_

[1] _Brevis cyboru_ could be nicely and appropriately

rendered with "Menu,"--something minute, short,--but

this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It is an

enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes

contained in the excerpts.

There is considerable variation in the spelling of the

names here and in the following. Syllables ending with

"u" are invariably abbreviations of "um."

[468] A CASSEROLE [1] OF VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN

_CACCABINAM MINOREM_

ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN A CASSEROLE WITH

[cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL,

SET TO BOIL. NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN

WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the

casserole, eliminating the juice] [2].

[1] The dish resembles a chartreuse.

[2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the

egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded.

[469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE _CHARTREUSE_

_ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM_

CRUSH WHATEVER QUANTITY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND

A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE,

CORIANDER LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN THE HOT ASHES,

BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff unmould on a platter] DECORATE,

POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1].

[1] Either the vegetables and chicken of {Rx} No. 468

are combined with this dressing or a purée of the above

cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral

dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room

for this choice; but there can be no doubt but what we

have here a formula for a vegetable purée or a pudding,

a genuine "Chartreuse," such as were prepared in the

fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The "Chartreuse,"

then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the

monastery by that name, the Carthusians.

[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE

_CACCABINAM _[1]_ FUSILEM_

[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots

or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS

OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT

MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould

or in a casserole]. CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE,

1 PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL

MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT

MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight]

EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the

layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil]

AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, or carefully

unmould the dish on a service platter] [2].

[1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms,

_salacaccabia_ and _caccabina_ have degenerated here. In

these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to

the former meaning, the original "salt meat boiled in a

pot." Such changes are very often observed in the

terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language.

They make the definition of terms and the classification

of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the

confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places

and create misunderstandings that only an expert can

explain.

[2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative

scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and

meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the

various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one

would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a

design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is

served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in

unmoulding it without damaging the structure.

III

[471] BRAISED CUTLETS

_OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]

PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] OF BROTH, A LIKE

QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3].

[1] Derived from _garum_ or _{oe}nogarum_, the wine

sauce. These are supposed to be meat balls or cutlets

prepared with garum, but the _garum_ is not mentioned in

the formula. This also illustrates the interesting

etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day

ancient language because it is a typical technical term,

the much complained-of _lingua culinaria_. We find,

therefore, that--at least in this instance--_garum_ no

longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, _garus_,

but that _garum_ has become a generic term for certain

kinds of sauces. Danneil renders _garatus_ with

_lasaratus_, which is clearly out of place.

[2] In this instance, and in several others, and also

according to Sueton. Cæs. fluids were weighed. What idea

could be more practical, useful and more "modern" than

this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence

have thus far made futile all efforts towards more

progressive methods in handling food stuffs,

particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them

by their weight. Present market methods are very

chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of

the buyer.

[3] The original: _et sic frigis_.--_Frigo_ is

equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here

has taken on a broader meaning, because the "frying"

process is clearly out of question here. It appears that

the terminology of _frigo_ and that of _asso_ in the

next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter

of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a

clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling,

roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to

various interpretations.

[472] ROAST MEAT BALLS

_OFELLAS ASSAS_

MEATBALLS [previously sauté], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE IN A SHALLOW

STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE

SAME SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.

[473] GLAZED CUTLETS

_ALITER OFELLAS_

THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT

HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED.

[1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III.

[2] _unguantur._

[3] Dann. oil; G.-V. _melle_--_honey_. It is quite

common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle

meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to

melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust.

[474] MEAT BALLS WITH LASER

_OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]

LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX

WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL THEREIN [2].

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III.

[2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading

of the sentence, _misces cum his omnibus tritis_, etc.

VII

[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS

_PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS_ [1]

COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED

TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY

HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET

THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN,

HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD

SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A

DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE.

[1] _rapa_, _rapum_: white turnip, rape; "turniped."

VIII

[476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS:

_PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_

CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, RUE, FIGDATES,

MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS

PREPARE AND MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL CASSEROLE TO HEAT. WHEN

THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND

SERVE.

[477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS:

_ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, AND MOISTEN WITH

HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK

THIS ON A SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE.

[1] Sch. _ligisticum_.

[2] Wanting in Sch.

[478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1]

_PISCES ASSOS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD

FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED

MUST; ALL THIS MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it].

[1] The fish was probably broiled on the _craticula_

(see our illustration).

The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly

handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned

mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of

manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or

broiled fish.

[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE

_PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1]

FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD

OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE.

[1] Ihm and G.-V. _{oe}noteganon_; _inotogono_ and in

the Summary of Dishes _inotogonon_; Sch. _eleogaro_.

Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of

spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared

with wine, although wine is absent in the present

formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the

same name.

Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation

"oil broth."

XII

[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS:

_SARDAS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS,

VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID.

[1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used

to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A

"sardine," from the island of Sardinia; _Sardus_, the

inhabitant of Sardinia.

[2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the

manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is

regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or

uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern

mayonnaise.

XIII

[481] FISH STEWED IN WINE

_PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1]

RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into handy size]

ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND

[fresh] CORIANDER, AND COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE

WITH THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU HAVE COOKED [with

the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO THE SAUCE PAN. [When the

fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish,

casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A

BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY

[Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Cf. note to XI. This _{oe}noteganon_ resembles the

_Bouillabaisse_, the famous Marseilles fish chowder. In

addition to the above manner it is flavored with

saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the

judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of

garlic and small sippets of toasted bread.

XIV

[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS:

_MULLOS ANETHATOS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_

PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A

SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh]

CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER

IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN

WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON

THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN.

SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] From _anethus_--dill--which is omitted in formula.

Sch. _anecatos_, i.e. _submersos_, because the original

fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture

is not justified.

[483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE

_ALITER MULLOS_

SCRAPE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE

AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER TO THE MESS, SET ON THE

FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE

FISH'S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT

IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD

IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND

SERVE.

[1] It appears that the _patina_ mentioned in this and

in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought

metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer _cumana_,

an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used

for service at the table.

It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has

a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices

of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and

economical.

XVI

[484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS:

_MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES_

CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN. IN THE MORTAR PUT

PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MINT, DRY ONIONS, CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH A SMALL

GLASS OF WINE, HALF OF THAT OF BROTH, AND OF HONEY ONE THIRD PART, AND

A MODERATE AMOUNT OF REDUCED MUST, SAY A SPOONFUL. IT IS NECESSARY

THAT THE FISH BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE MAY BE

SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING.

[1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest

of fish; the best were brought from the straits of

Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their fish ponds,

often large and elaborate marble basins called,

_piscina_, fattened the fish, kept it ready for use.

Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a slave

on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into

the fish pond; he would eat only the liver of such

murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty on

record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated.

[2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann.

Also very much esteemed. The witty Plautus names a cook

in one of his comedies "Congrio," because the fellow was

"slippery."

XVII

[485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL)

_LOCUSTAM (ET SCILLAM)_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF

[hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled

shellfish meat with it] AND SERVE.

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes.

[2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulæ. No

indication as to how to use the ingredients named.

According to our notion of eating, there is only one

way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed

to cool off; the meat is then taken out of the shells;

the above named ingredients are combined in a manner of

a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary

oil is not mentioned here. The dressing is poured over

the shellfish meat, and the result is a sort of salad or

"cocktail" as we have today.

XVIII

[486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH

_IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR;

ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR,

BROTH, MUSTARD, MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH.

[1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or

date wine; Goll. thinks it is mustard seed, which is not

so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves no room

for any doubt.

XIX

[487] A DISH OF SOLE WITH EGGS

_PATINA SOLEARUM EX OVIS_

SCALE [skin] CLEAN [the soles], PLACE IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD

BROTH, OIL [white] WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACE ON

FIRE TO COOK, GRIND A LITTLE PEPPER, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH THE FISH

LIQUOR [from the sauce pan]. TAKE 10 RAW EGGS, BEAT THEM AND MIX WITH

THE REMAINING LIQUOR; PUT IT ALL BACK OVER THE FISH, AND ON A SLOW

FIRE ALLOW TO HEAT [without boiling] AND THICKEN TO THE RIGHT

CONSISTENCY; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [1].

[1] Very similar to _Sole au vin blanc_. Cf. {Rx} No.

155.

[488] SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE

_PORCELLUM CORIANDRATUM_

ROAST THE PIG CAREFULLY; MAKE THUS A MORTAR MIXTURE: POUND PEPPER,

DILL, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL,

VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST. ALL OF THIS WHEN HOT POUR OVER [the roast]

SPRINKLE RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND CHOPPED ONIONS OVER AND SO SERVE.

XXI

[489] SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE

_PORCELLUM ÆNOCOCTUM_ [1]

TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK [roast] IT

WITH OIL AND BROTH. WHEN DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, RUE, LAUREL

BERRIES, BROTH, RAISIN WINE OR REDUCED WINE, OLD WINE, CRUSH ALL, MIX

AND PREPARE TO A POINT; DRESS THE PIG ON A SHOWY SERVICE [2] PLATTER

AND SERVE.

[1] i.e. _{oe}nococtum_, cooked or prepared in wine

sauce.

[2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a

copper vessel, because the instructions are to serve it

_in patinam aheneam_.

XXII

[490] PIG, PAN GRAVY

_PORCELLUM EO IURE_

ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; BIND THE GRAVY

WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE BOAT AND SERVE.

XXIII

[491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME

_PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM_

MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH SALT AND DILL;

TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO

PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the

following] GREEN SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD

BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE EVERYTHING

[over the pig which has been taken out of the water and allowed to

drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF

RAISIN WINE, AND SO PRESENT IT [1].

[1] We would first mix the liquid components of this

dressing with the chopped ingredients and then spread

the finished dressing over the pig. Our author, no

doubt, had this very process in mind.

XXIV

[492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG

_PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM_ [1]

GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND PLACE IT IN A

LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS

MUCH HONEY [2] AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR DRY

CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 SEXTARIUS OF OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all

this] PUT IN A STEW PAN [braisière] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT

COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO

THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD

ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO

PERFECTION AND SERVE IT.

[1] _exodionum_, and in the Summary of Dishes,

_exozome_, i.e. _oxyzomum_. It is curious to note the

various spellings and meanings of _oxyzomum_. This is

supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of

some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In

fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet

preparation. We take it, the "garnish" contains the

necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice,

wine, etc. _Oxyzomum_ is properly rendered "pickle."

[2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version.

[3] _sæpius_; Dann. confusing _sæpe_ with _cæpa_,

renders this "onions sauce." The same occurs to him in

XXVII.

XXV

[493] PIG WITH LASER

_PORCELLUM LASARATUM_

IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, A LITTLE CUMIN, LIVE

LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES,

HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, AND

POUR OVER [the roast pig].

XXVI

[494] PIG IN SAUCE

_PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM_

IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, RUE, A LAUREL

BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE,

OR A LITTLE HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. WHEN THIS

HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX.

XXVII

[495] PLAIN LAMB [1]

_AGNUM SIMPLICEM_

OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND

ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT

WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2]

AND SERVE.

[1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for "Irish

Stew."

[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} 492, XXIV; the presence of onion,

however, would do no harm here.

XXVIII

[496] KID WITH LASER

_HÆDUM LASARATUM_

THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation of] PEPPER,

BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM BACK INTO THE CARCASS WHICH SEW

TIGHTLY AND THUS COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE

MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS

BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY.

[1] There being only liquids for this filling of the

guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat,

eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable

filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage,

for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked

before it can be used for the filling of the carcass, as

not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during

the roasting to cook any raw dressing.

XXIX

[497] THRUSH "À LA SANTÉ"

_TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF

THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING

THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE

COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS.

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived

from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills.

[2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin.

[3] Cf. note to {Rx} 496, XXVIII.

[4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are

not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the

entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned,

sauté, and are either put back into the carcasses, or

are served separately on bread croutons. In this

instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through

the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to

Apicius.

[5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small

amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for

frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to

believe that the thrush were not "cooked," i.e. "boiled"

but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil;

this would make the ancient process remarkably similar

to the present European way of preparing thrush or

fieldfare, or similar game birds.

For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to {Rx} No.

250.

XXX

[498] TURTLEDOVES

_TURTURES_

OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE

BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE

ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM.

XXXI

[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1]

_IUS IN PERDICES_

CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH

VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL

LIKEWISE AND SERVE.

[1] This formula evidently is a fragment.

END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius]

_EXPLI [cit] BREUIS CIBORUM_

[END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS]

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709

Lister's second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able

printers, the Jansson-Wæsbergs. It is a very worthy book in every

respect which, as M. Græsse says in Trésor des livres rares et

précieux, may be included in the collection of the Variorum.}

{Transcription:

APICII C{OE}LII

OPSONIIS

CONDIMENTIS,

Sive

ARTE COQUINARIA,

LIBRI DECEM.

Cum Annotationibus

MARTINI LISTER,

è Medicis domesticis Serenissimæ Majestatis

Reginæ Annæ,

Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris,

HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII,

A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM,

ut & _Variarum Lectionum_ Libello.

EDITIO SECUNDA.

_Longe auctior atque emendatior._

{Decoration}

AMSTELODAMI,

Apud JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS

MDCCIX.}

APICIANA

{Illustration: DIAGRAM

of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each

other and indicating the sources of the present translation.}

{Transcription:

+=============+ +=========================+ +===============+

|MS | |MS | |MS |

|ROME | |The | | |

|Vatican Vrbin|-----|ARCHETYPUS FULDENSIS |------|Now in |

|lat. 1146 | |* | |NEW YORK CITY |

|* | |Formerly in the Monastery| |* |

+=============+ |written prior to the | |CHELTENHAM |

| \ \ |(now lost) | |275 |

| \ \ +=========================+ |9th Century |

| \ \ +===============+

| \ \ / | |

+---------+ \ \ +====================+ / | |

|MS | | | |MS. PARIS lat. 10318| / | |

|lat. 8209| | | |Vinidario v.i. 8th | / | |

|15th | | | |Cent. | / | |

|century | | | +====================+ / | |

+---------+ | \ \ / | |

| \ ------\ /--------------- | |

| --- \ / \ | |

+=================+ \ | \ | |

| | | | \ | |

| +-----------+ | | | \ | |

| |MS | | | | \ | |

| |FLORENCE | | | | \ / |

| |Laur. 73.20| | | | \ / |

| |15th | | | | | / |

| |century | | | +---------+ | / +---------+

| +-----------+ | | |MS | | / |The |

| +------------+ | | |lat. 756 | | | |EDITION |

| |ROME, Vat | | | |1469 A.D.| | | |1542 |

| |lat. 1145 | | | +---------+ | | +---------+

| +------------+ | | | | |

| | | | | |

| +----------+ | | +------------+ | | |

| |MS | | | |EDITIO | | | |

| |Laur. | |....|Venice, ca. | | | |The |

| | | +------------+ | | |1709 |

| | | | | +------------+

| +---------+ | | | | | |

| |MS | | | | | | |

| |Ricc. 141| | | \ / | |

| |15th | | | \ / | |

| |century | | | \ / | |

| +---------+ | | \ | |

| | | / \ | |

| +---------+ | | +-----------+ / \ / |

| |MS | | | |The | / \ / |

| |Ricc. 622| |----|SIGNERRE |----------------- \ |

| |15th | | | |EDITIONS, | / \/ \ |

| +---------+ | | |1490 (?) | \ / / \ \ |

| | | |1498 | \/ / \ \ |

| | | +-----------+ /\ / \ \ |

| | | | \ / \ \ |

| +----------+ | | | +---------+ | | |

| |MS | | | | |The | | | |

| |lat. 163 | | | | |1787-1800| | | |

| |1490 | | | | +---------+ | | |

| +----------+ | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | |

| | | +-----------+ | | +----------+

| | | |The | | | |The |

| |Bodl. Ad | | | |1541 | | \ |1867-1874 |

| |B. 110 | | | |from codex | | \ +----------+

| +----------+ | | |Torinus | | \ \ |

| | | +-----------+ | \ \ |

| | | | \ \ |

| +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ |

| |MS | | | |The | | \ \ |

| |151. mun.| |----|Edition,| | \ \ |

| |14th | | | |Venice | | \ \ |

| |century | | | |1852 |------------------- \ \ |

| +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ \ |

| | | / \ \ \ |

| +---------+ | \ +-----------+/ \ +-----------+

| |MS | | \ |The | \|The |

| |ROME, Vat| | \|GIARRATANO-|--------------------|VEHLING |

| +---------+ | |1922 | +-----------+

| | +-----------+

+=================+}

{Illustration: INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM

Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th

century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome.}

APICIANA

A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions

A. MANUSCRIPTS

SUMMARY OF MANUSCRIPTS

LOCATION NO. OF MS. BOOKS

New York, I 1

Rome, II, IV and XVII 3

Paris, III and V 2

Florence, VI, VII, VIII and IX 4

Oxford, X and XI 2

Cesena, XII 1

Munich, XVIII 1

Not accounted for, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI 4

Total of manuscript books 18

(Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. XI,

Oxford)

DESCRIPTION OF MANUSCRIPTS

I, 9TH CENTURY

New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in

Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of

Sir Thomas Phillipps, a codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275

pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come

from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the

7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but

mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike the

Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda.

Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6.

The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the

opinion that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index

is gone, too. The book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in

an 18th century French full leather binding. It was brought to America

by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and presented to the library of the A. of M.

in 1931.

II, 9TH CENTURY

Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58

sheets, 2 blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 × 18.75

cm., heavy parchment, 20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1

R, illuminated by square panel in purple and gold letters (capit.

quadr.) IN{=C}{=P} || API || CÆ ||--Nothing else. Sheet 1 V--3 R the

title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of Book I,

illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the

foot of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple

similar to sheet 1 R with inscription, IN{=C}{=P} || CONDIT{=V} ||

PARADOX{=V}. Sheet 4 R commences the text with the title, I, Conditum

Paradoxum. Captions, marginal figures and initials in red. The

captions are written in good uncials throughout, the first text words

usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful minuscle.

The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V

end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X.

Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in

or in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century.

III, 8TH CENTURY

Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici

excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl. (See illustration.)

Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulæ not found in the traditional Apicius

and quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding

the Excerpta which follow the end of Book X of Apicius.

IV, 15TH CENTURY

Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th

century. 51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius.

V, 15TH CENTURY

Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the

page.

VI, 15TH CENTURY

Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page.

VII, 15TH CENTURY

Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the

page. Title, Apicius.

VIII, 15TH CENTURY

Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular

number of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century.

IX, 1462

Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper,

79 sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by

Pascutius Sabinus, Bologna, 1462.

X, 1490

Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490.

(_In fine_) scriptum per me Petrum Antonium Salandum Reginensem die

xxviii Maii MCCCCLXXXX.

XI, 15TH CENTURY

Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl.

Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western

Mss. in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that

this Ms. belonged to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann.

XII, 14TH CENTURY

Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century.

XIII

A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which

burned in 1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La

Libreria di Gio. Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l'Umbria,

III, 1886, 518, 790.

XIV

A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P.

Lehman, Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204.

XV-XVI

The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of

Apicius, Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius "codex" on the

island of Megalona (Maguellone) which he used for his edition of

Apicius. It is almost certain that this was not a very ancient

manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and of the (first) Venetian

printed edition in his _epistola dedicatoria_ leaves even doubt as to

whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition,

printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as

Torinus describes in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with

the text and failed to understand some phrases of it. Despite this

fact, his text, from a culinary point of view seems to be more

authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions.

The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by

Io. Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for

the first edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other

mention is made of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus,

was sent to Venice from Transsylvania. The text of the Editio

Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable.

XVII, 15TH CENTURY

Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century.

XVIII, 15TH CENTURY

Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex

is particularly valuable and important for the identification of the

Apicius text. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 _seq._

B. PRINTED EDITIONS

SUMMARY OF PRINTED EDITIONS

NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE

1 ca. A.D. 1483(?) Venice, Italy Latin

2 A.D. 1490(?) Milan, Italy (doubtful) Latin

3 A.D. 1498 Milan, Italy Latin

4 A.D. 1503 Venice, Italy Latin

5 A.D. 1541 Basel, Switzerland Latin

6 A.D. 1541 Lyons, France Latin

7 A.D. 1542 Zürich, Switzerland Latin

8 A.D. 1705 London, England Latin

9 A.D. 1709 Amsterdam, Holland Latin

10 A.D. 1787 Marktbreit, Germany Latin

11 A.D. 1791 Lübeck, Germany Latin

12 A.D. 1800 Ansbach, Germany Latin

13 A.D. 1852 Venice, Italy Italian

14 A.D. 1867 Heidelberg, Germany Latin

15 A.D. 1874 Heidelberg, Germany Latin

16 A.D. 1909 Leipzig, Germany German

17 A.D. 1911 Leipzig, Germany German

18 A.D. 1922 Leipzig, Germany Latin

19 A.D. 1933 Paris, France French

20 A.D. 1936 Chicago, U. S. A. English

COMMENTARIES ON APICIUS

NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE

21 A.D. 1531* Frankfurt, Germany Latin

22 A.D. 1534* Frankfurt, Germany Latin

23 A.D. 1535* Antwerp, Belgium Latin

24 A.D. 1831 Heidelberg, Germany German

25 A.D. 1868 London, England English

26 A.D. 1912 Naples, Italy Italian

27 A.D. 1920 Munich, Germany German

28 A.D. 1921 Rome, Italy Latin-Italian

29 A.D. 1927 Leipzig, Germany German

* Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius.

Total of Printed Editions, in Latin 15

Total of Printed Editions, in Italian 1

Total of Printed Editions, in German 2

Total of Printed Editions, in French 1

Total of Printed Editions, in English 1

Total of Commentaries in all Languages 9

Editions and Commentaries published in America 1

Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium 1

Editions and Commentaries published in England 2

Editions and Commentaries published in France 2

Editions and Commentaries published in Germany 13

Editions and Commentaries published in Holland 1

Editions and Commentaries published in Italy 7

Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland 2

BIBLIOGRAPHERS AND COLLECTORS

Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. XV and XVI.

A. Vernarecci describes Mss. XIII.

P. Lehmann describes Mss. XI and XIV.

F. Vollmer describes Mss. I-XVIII.

Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. I.

Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11,

14, 15.

Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. 1, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12,

13, 14, 15.

Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 9.

Bernhold describes editions Nos. 2, 10, 11, 12.

Fabricius describes edition No. 2.

Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. 3, 21.

In the author's collection are editions Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15,

16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29.

DESCRIPTION OF PRINTED EDITIONS

These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and

printed editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the

students a survey of the field treated in this volume, to illustrate

the interest that has existed throughout the past centuries in our

ancient book.

Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous

collectors pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the

well-known collections of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps

is that of Theodor Drexel, of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine

different editions of Apicius. The Drexel catalogue forms the basis of

a bibliography--Verzeichnis der Litteratur über Speise und Trank bis

zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, 1888, describing

some 1700 works.

The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the

Staatsbibliothek in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of

its kind.

Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery

Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the

Apicii.

The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being

stored away in a warehouse during the world war.

The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the

Bibliographie gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire

mentions eleven Apicius editions.

The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both

dispersed.

Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been

unable to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. 1

and 2. The existence of No. 2 on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we

do not pretend having inspected or read each and every edition

described herein, but by combining the efforts of the authorities here

cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions in order

to present a complete survey of the Apician literature.

NO. 1 CA. A.D. 1483, VENICE

APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM || SUETONIUS

TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS GR{=A}MATICIS. || SUETONIUS

TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS RHETORIBUS || COQUINARIÆ CAPITA

GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT || EPIMELES, (_Etc. In

fine_) IMPRESSUM VENETIIS PER BERNARDINUM VENETUM.

No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition

by most authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not

numbered. Georg-Drexel, No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29.

NO. 2, MILAN, A.D. 1490

APICIUS CULINARIS (_sic_) (CURA BLASII LANCILOTI _In

fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILIERUM DE

SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM. ANNO DOMINI M CCCC LXXXX DIE

VIII MENSIS JANUARII.

Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers.

Ex Bernhold, _præfatio_, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin

text) says, "Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the

Nuremberg library, most accurately and neatly described by the very

famous and most worthy physician of that illustrious republic, Dr.

Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose integrity, of course,

is above reproach; these are his own words--The book is made in the

size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are

indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto.

Fabricius, in his Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under

this name. The entire book consists of five parts [sheets, folded into

eight leaves--sixteen printed pages--stitched together] and two

leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; these two sheets

preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication and a

kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should

say, though there is no regular pagination. However, there are

nevertheless in the lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts,

some conspicuous letters on the first four leaves of the sheets, while

the remaining four leaves though belonging to the respective parts,

are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows the next

sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with

the four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows

sheet c, d, e. The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise

the text proper, contain the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris

[_sic_] nowhere, to be sure, appears a note of the place or the date

where and when the book was made, and on this whole first page, aside

from the words already noted, there is nothing else in evidence than

the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign,

IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, 'Joannes de

Lagniano M.' At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are

inscribed with the letters, I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the

title page, exhibits the dedication of Blasius Lancilotus, extending

to the upper part of the third page. On this very same page occurs the

poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius Riscius,

comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of the

third page is finished off with the word, 'Finis,' while the fourth

page is entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth,

as mentioned above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by

letters, as previously described. At the end of the text, on the last

page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, entitled, 'Antonius Mota to

the Public,' consisting of four neat distichs, followed by another

composition, containing five distichs by Joannes Salandus. And

conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, 'Printed at

Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of

the Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.'

"From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest--with no other

known earlier edition--all the variants given herewith have been

collected by Goezius." Thus far Bernhold.

The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to

Vicaire. This ancient description corresponds substantially to that of

Vicaire of the following edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be

the first dated Apicius edition. It is interesting to note, however,

what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition.

"Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition," says he; and

he goes on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo.

Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the

effect that two editions were printed at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius

Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis.

Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nürnberg has revealed the

fact that this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the

library there.

NO. 3, A.D. 1498, MILAN

APICIUS CULINARIUS (_in fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER

MAGISTRUM GUILERUM SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM, ANNO DNI

MCCCCLXXXXVIII, DIE XX, MENSIS IANUARII.

(Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not

numbered.

{Illustration: COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498

From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan,

1498, the first dated edition. The poems by Mota and Salandus are

identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition.

Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read

for "the 8th day of January, 1490" which date is attributed to our

Apiciana No. 2. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although

several bibliographers speak about it.}

{Transcription:

Antonius mota Ad vulgus.

Plaudite sartores: cætari: plaudite ventres

Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui

Pila sit albanis quæcunq; ornata lagænis

Pingue suum copo limen obesus amet

Occupat insubres altissimus ille nepotum

Gurges & vndantes auget & vrget aquas

Millia sex ventri qui fixit Apicius alto

Inde timens: sumpsit dira venena: famem.

Ioannes salandus lectori.

Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati:

Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq; nouum:

Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas

Celius: in lucem nec rediturus erat:

Nunc teritur dextra versatus Apicius omni

Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat:

Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi

Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor:

Per quem non licuit celebri caruisse nepote:

Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm.

Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum

Signerre Rothomagensem Anno d{=n}i. Mcccclxxxx

viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.}

This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of "Georgius Klotz, M.D.

Francofurti ad M{oe}num" and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862.

Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius

[_sic_] Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold

Guilierum.

Vicaire's description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold's

and his collaborator's account of the preceding edition. There are

certain copies of this edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius

de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29.

NOTES TO NOS. 1, 2, AND 3

GESAMTKATALOG DER WIEGENDRUCKE, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as

the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [_sic_] printed by

William de Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The

second place is given APICIUS DE RE COQUINARIA printed by Bernardinus

de Vitalibus at Venice, no date, circa 1500 (our No. 1). This

classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. Neither the

Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the doubtful

1490 Milan edition (our No. 2).

Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes

Brunet as doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to

notice this expression of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent

on the subject, same as the other bibliographers.

Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius

(our No. 1) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the

Apicius text, a statement confirmed by Pennell.

A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius--Bibliotheca

Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760

and the Bibliotheca Latina mediæ et infimæ [middle ages], ib. 1735, has

failed to reveal a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as

described by Fabricius and as seen by Preus in the Nürnberg Municipal

Library.

Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be

mistaken for "the 8th day of January, 1490," Bernhold's very date!

Evidently an error of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and

Fabricius (if, indeed, he quoted it) and caused us some ardent

searching among dusty tomes. We have therefore come to the conclusion

that either this 1490 edition disappeared between the year 1787 and

our time or else that it never existed.

NO. 4, A.D. 1503, VENICE

APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || COQUINARIÆ

CAPITA GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT. || EPIMELES:

ARTOPTUS: CEPURICA: PANDECTER: OSPRION || TROPHETES:

POLYTELES: TETRAPUS: THALASSA: HALIEUS || HANC PLATO

ADULATRICEM MEDICINÆ APPELLAT || [_in fine_] IMPRESSUM

UENETIIS P IOHANNEM DE CERETO DE TRIDINO ALIAS TACUINUM.

M.CCCCC.III. DIE TERTIO MENSIS AUGUSTI.

4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h,

by 4.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503

From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de

Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, 1503. This is the second dated edition

of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the

Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date.

Same size as the original. This is a first timid attempt at giving a

book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title

pages.}

{Transcription:

Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem.

Coquinariæ capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt.

Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion

Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus.

Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinæ appellat.}

On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490

Milan edition (No. 2) "Antonius mota ad uulgus" (4 distichs) and

"Iohannes salandi Lectori" (5 distichs). The verso of this page is

blank. The dedication, on the verso of title page, is likewise by

Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition is closely related to

No. 2.

Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell.

In the collection of the author.

NO. 5, A.D. 1541, BASEL

CÆLII APITII || SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDI || CINÆ ARTIFICIS

DE RE CVLINARIA LIBRI X. RE || CENS È TENEBRIS ERUTI & À

MENDIS UINDICATI, || TYPISQUE SVMMA DILIGENTIA ||

EXCUSI. || PRÆTEREA, || P. PLATINÆ CREMO || NENSIS VIRI

UNDECVNQVE DO || CTISSIMI, DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA

RERUM, & POPINÆ || SCIENTIA LIBRI X. AD IMITATIONEM C.

API || TII AD UNGUEM FACTI. || AD HÆC, || PAVLI ÆGINETÆ

DE || FACVLTATIBUS ALIMENTORVM TRA || CTATVS, ALBANO

TORINO || INTERPRETE. || CUM INDICE COPIOSISSIMO. ||

BASILEÆ || M.D.XLI. [_in fine_] BASILEÆ, MENSE MARTIO,

ANNO M D X L I.

4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not

numbered but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences

with p. 1, finishing with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small

Roman letters a-z and numbers 1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z,

likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the books or chapters, on verso

of the title page, under the heading of "Katalogos et Epigraphè Decem

Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii" are both in Greek and Roman

characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black

letter). The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or

Oporinus press, but bears no printer's name or device.

The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by

"Appendicvla De Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino

Paraphraste," not mentioned on the title. This treatise extends from

p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen recipes for "condimenta" and

"conditvræ"; these are followed on the same page by "De Facvltatibvs

Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo Ægineta, Albano Torino Interprete" which book is

concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor with any

very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina:

"P. [_sic_] Platinæ Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda

ualetudine Natura rerum, & Popinæ scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B.

Rouerellam S. Clementis presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I." The ten

books of Platina are concluded on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering

down with the words: "P. [_sic_] Platinæ libri decimi et vltimi

Finis" and the date, as mentioned. The last page blank.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541

This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius

is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel

in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another,

frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with

startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus' spelling of "P"

[Bartholomæus] Platina, but note the spelling of "Lvg[v]dvni" (Lyons).

Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: "This [book]

amuses me! Why make fun of me?"}

{Transcription:

CÆLII

APITII, SVMMI

ADVLATRICUS

MEDICINÆ ARTIFICIS,

De re Culinaria libri

Decem.

{Handwriting}

B. PLATINÆ CREMONENSIS

_De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ

scientia Libri x._

PAVLI ÆGINETÆ DE FACULTATIBUS

_alimentorum Tractatus,

Albano Torino Interprete_.

{Handwriting}

{Decoration}

APVD SEB. GRYPHIVM

LVGVDVNI,

1541.}

Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the

same editor's name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This

edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows:

NO. 6, A.D. 1541, LYONS

CÆLII || APITII SVM || MI ADVLATRICIS || MEDICINÆ

ARTIFICIS, || DE RE CULINARIA LIBRI || DECEM || B.

PLATINÆ CREMONEN || SIS DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA

RERUM & POPINÆ || SCIENTIA LIBRI X, || PAULI ÆGINETÆ DE

FACULTATIBUS ALIMENTORUM TRACTATUS, || ALBANO TORINO

INTER || PRETE.

The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius

printer's device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported

by a winged globe. On the left of the device: "virtute duci," on the

right: "comite fortuna"; directly underneath: "Apvd Seb. Gryphivm,

Lvgvdvni [_sic_], 1541." Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with

verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on

verso of title "Katalogos" etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences

with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire

corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the

captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an

unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous

margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small

interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page

shows another printer's device, differing from that on the title,

another griffin.

This edition, though bearing Platina's correct initial, B., has the

fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed

one of the earliest editions of Platina's De honesta Voluptate,

printed without a title page.

Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and

we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel

edition.

The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates

and asks his patron's protection, is concluded with the date, Basileæ,

v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire

appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of

his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title "Lvgdvni, 1541"

which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original.

Of these two editions Vicaire says:

"Ces deux éditions portent la même date de 1541, mais celle qui a été

publiée à Bâle a paru avant celle donnée à Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette

dernière, en effet, contient la dédicace datée." The title page of our

copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic

remark: "Mulcens me, gannis?" This copy is bound in the original

vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12.

The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as

will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be

found in Platina, mæstro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di

Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabò, Cremona, 1935.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZÜRICH, 1542

The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the

great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes

Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.}

{Transcription:

IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA

APICII CÆLII

DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS,

SIVE ARTE COQVINARIA

LIBRI X.

ITEM,

Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici

Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X.

Annotationes.

TIGVRI IN OFFICINA

Froschouiana. Anno,

M. D. XLII.

{Handwriting}

{Signature: Johannes Baptista Bassus.}}

NO. 7, A.D. 1542, ZÜRICH

IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA. || APICII CÆLII || DE OPSONIIS ET

CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE ARTE COQVINA || RIA, LIBRI X. ||

ITEM, || GABRIELIS HUMELBERGIJ MEDICI, PHYSICI ||

ISNENSIS IN APICIJ CÆLIJ LIBROS X. || ANNOTATIONES. ||

TIGVRI IN OFFICINA || FROSCHOUIANA. ANNO, || M.D. XLII.

4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On

verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2

the dedication, dated "Isnæ Algoiæ, mense Maio, Anno à Christo nato,

M.D.XLII." Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the

books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso

commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I.

The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the

editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes,

fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our

copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by

Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.

G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.

NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON

APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS,

|| SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM

ANNOTATIONIBUS MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS DOMESTICIS

SERENISSIMÆ MA || JESTATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ || ET || NOTIS

SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, ||

HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, || & VARIORUM. || LONDINI:

|| TYPIS GULIELMI BOWYER. MDCCV.

The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.

8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV +

231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by

Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our

copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library.

Above the same in an old hand: "Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120

tantum exemplaria impressa sunt." On the fly leaf, in a different old

hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J.

Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of C{oe}lius.

Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather

pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject,

that deserves to be quoted in full: "Alas! that time is wanting to

visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly

flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but

the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful

Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison's

letters, etc. pag. 269.

"'* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius's ten books on

cookery were rediscovered.' _Ibid._--Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat:

edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365."

On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to

the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the

expense of eighteen gentlemen whose names are given, among them

"Isaac Newton, Esq." and other famous men.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705

The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen

Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer.

This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being

limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition

(Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence

to that effect.}

{Transcription:

APICIANA

APICII C{OE}LII

OPSONIIS

CONDIMENTIS,

Sive

Arte Coquinaria,

LIBRI DECEM.

Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER,

è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Majestatis

Reginæ Annæ.

Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris,

HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII,

& VARIORUM.

LONDINI:

Typis _Gulielmi Bowyer_. MDCCV.}

Lister's preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in

the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the

index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf,

the errata. One leaf for the "Catalogus" (not mentioned by Vicaire) a

bibliography of the editor's extensive writings, and works used in

this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list

was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this

present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original

binding, and perfect in every respect.

{Illustration: VERSO OF TITLE PAGE

of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the

edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the

expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly "Isaac

Newton, Esq.," Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to

this day.}

{Transcription:

_Hujus Libri_ centum & viginti _tantum_

Exemplaria _impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum_.

Tho. _Lord A.B. of_ Canterbury.

Ch. _Earl of_ Sunderland.

J. _Earl of_ Roxborough, _Principal Secretary of State for_ Scotland.

J. _Lord_ Sommers.

Charles _Lord_ Hallifax.

J. _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich.

Ge. _Lord Bishop of_ Bath _and_ Wells.

Robert Harley _Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State_.

_Sir_ Richard Buckley, _Baronet_.

_Sir_ Christopher Wren.

Tho. Foley, _Esq_;

Isaac Newton, _Esq_; _President of the Royal Society_.

William Gore, _Esq_;

Francis Ashton, _Esq_;

_Mr._ John Flamstead, _Ast._ Reg.

John Hutton, }

Tancred Robinson, } _M. D. D._

Hans Sloane. }}

NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM

APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS,

|| SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM

ANNOTATIONIBUS || MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS

DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMÆ MAJE || STATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ, || ET

|| NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS,

|| HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, || A. VAN DER LINDEN,

& ALIORUM, || UT & VARIARUM LECTIONUM LIBELLO. || EDITIO

SECUNDA. || LONGE AUCTIOR ATQUE EMENDATIOR. ||

AMSTELODAMI, || APUD JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS. || M D C C I

Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus

Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister

to the Reader, and the "Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio" by Olaus

Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten

books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others,

commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9

leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.

Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. "Edition assez

estimée. On peut l'annexer à la collection des Variorum d'après M.

Græsse, Trésor des Livres rares et précieux."--Vicaire. Our copy is

in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of

James Maidment.

The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very

esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but

there is no proof of this.

Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done

justice the Elzevirs.

NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT

CÆLII APICII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS ||

SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA || LIBRI X || CUM || LECTIONIBUS

VARIIS || ATQUE INDICE || EDITIT || JOANNES MICHÆL

BERNHOLD || COMES PALATINATUS CÆSAREUS, PHIL. ET || MED.

D. SERENISSIMO MARCHIONI BRAN ||

DENBURGICO-ONOLDINO-CULBACENSI || A CONSILIIS AULÆ,

PHYSICUS SUPREMA || RUM PRÆFECTURARUM VFFENHEMENSIS ||

ET CREGLINGENSIS, ACADEMIÆ IMPERIALI || NATURÆ

SCRUTATORUM ADSCRIPTUS.

The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for

the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p.

81, where one reads: Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein,

M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt,

with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped

on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of

Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as

above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex

Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: "Sedulo hæ

Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio

Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis Collega." Variantes Lectiones, Lib.

I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that

these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated

in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, "Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti

Vaticani," headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith

given in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been

taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found

following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these

Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The

following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister

edition also:

"Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere

iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui

seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter

libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris

temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum

istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino

Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca

Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus

[Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca

Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono,

ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere;

qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ;

Apicii editioni inseri curauit."

On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and

on pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the

Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the

Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf.

Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition;

G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel

have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on

p. 81.

Georg reads Apicii C{oe}lii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the

autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.

Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by

Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from

the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions,

unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own

observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the

English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable

because of the above mentioned variants.

NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LÜBECK

[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor

Pennell.

NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH

APITIUS C{OE}LIUS DE RE CULINARIA. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.

Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by

Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection.

NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE

APITIUS CÆLIUS DELLE VIVANDE E CONDIMENTI OVVERO DELL' ARTE DE LA

CUCINA. VOLGARIZZAMENTO CON ANNOTATIONI DI G. BASEGGIO.

8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.

Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.

NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG

APICI CÆLI || DE || RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || NOVEM CODICUM OPE

ADIUTUS, AUXIT, RESTI || TUIT, EMENDAVIT, ET CORREXIT, VARIARUM ||

LECTIONUM PARTE POTISSIMA ORNAVIT, STRIC || TIM ET INTERIM EXPLANAVIT

|| CHR. THEOPHIL. SCHUCH. || HEIDELBERGÆ, 1867.

8vo. pp. 202.

Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.

NO. 15, A.D. 1874

[The same] EDITIO SECUNDA HEIDELBERGÆ, 1874, [Winter].

Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius C{oe}lius, our copy agrees

with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell.

Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch _Wunderlicher

Querkopf_. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric,

worthless.

NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG

DAS APICIUS-KOCHBUCH AUS DER ALTRÖMISCHEN KAISERZEIT. Ins Deutsche

übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter

Kunstblätter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei

Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154.

NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG

APICIUS CÆLIUS: ALTRÖMISCHE KOCHKUNST IN ZEHN BÜCHERN. Bearbeitet und

ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer

Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz,

Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der

Köche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.

NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG

APICII || LIBRORVM X QVI DICVNTVR || DE RE COQVINARIA ||

QVÆ EXTANT || EDIDERVNT || C. GIARRATANO ET FR. VOLLMER

|| LIPSIÆ IN ÆDIBVS B. G. TEVBNERI MCMXXII.

NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS

LES DIX LIVRES DE CUISINE D'APICIUS traduits du latin pour la Première

fois et commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue

Blanche, No. 8.

No date (_in fine_ October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false

title; on verso, facing the title page (!) "_du mème auteur_"--a

full-page advertisement of the author's many-sided publications, past

and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix _Introduction_, a

lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of

Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with _Les

Manuscrits d'Apicius_. The _Introduction_ finishes on p. Lxxviii. On

p. 1 _Les Dix Livres d'Apicius_, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the

_incipit_ of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences

the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308.

_Table Analytique_ (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered

sheets, on the first page of which is the _Justification du tirage_,

with the date of printing and the printer's name, Durand of Chartres.

The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is

No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch

Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.

Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had

gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the

French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason.

However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.

A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has

been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the

adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of

his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.

The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The

material, comprising the _Introduction_ and also the explanatory

notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated.

The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the

classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice.

Frequently, for instance, he confounds _liquamen_ with _garum_, the

age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.

The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced,

disturbing.

Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough

study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and

new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the

mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn't

matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil

the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the

sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the

scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor

instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling

can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and

unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and

adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the

matter.

NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO

Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.

DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES

NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT

DE RE COQUINARIA. VON SPEISEN. Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller

Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig

gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera

cet.'; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to.

Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is

related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little

bearing on Apicius.

NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT

POLYONYMI SYNGRAPHEI SCHOLA APICIANA. Ibid. 1534, 4to.

Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron

Pichon collection, No. 569.

NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP

SCHOLA || APITIANA, EX OP || TIMIS QVIBVS || DAM

AUTHORIBUS DILIGEN || TER AC NOUITER CONSTRU || CTA,

AUTHORE POLYO || NIMO SYNGRA || PHEO. || A C GESSERE DIA

|| LOGI ALIQUOT D. ERASMI RO || TERODAMI, & ALIA QUÆDAM

|| LECTU IUCUNDISSIMA. || VÆNEUNT ANTUERPIÆ IN ÆDI ||

BUS IOANNIS STEELSIJ. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in

beautiful woodcut border. [_in fine_] TYPIS IOAN.

GRAPHEI. M.D.XXXV.

Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia,

with doves on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In

Scholam Apitianam Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc.

On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and

Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse

debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta C{oe}narvm by Horace; De

Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather of the great

Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by Paulus Aegineta;

and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors,

partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely

fictitious.

In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in

detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same

as the above in text.

NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG

FLORA APICIANA. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der

Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.

NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON

H. C. COOTE: THE CUISINE BOURGEOISE OF ANCIENT ROME. Archæologia, vol.

XLI.

Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.

NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES

CESARE GIARRATANO: I CODICI DEI LIBRI DE RE COQUINARIA DI CELIO.

Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl.

NO. 27, AD. 1920

FRIEDRICH VOLLMER: STUDIEN ZU DEM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE VON APICIUS.

Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen

Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und

historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920.

Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des

G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).

NO. 28, A.D. 1921

G. STERNAJOLO: CODICES VRBINATI LATINI.

NO. 29, AD. 1927

UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZUM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE Versuch einer Lösung der

Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich'sche

Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III.

164 pp.

Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the

Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not

conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he

has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and

the authors of our old Roman cookery book.

APICIANÆ FINIS

{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES

Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of

satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.}

INDEX and VOCABULARY

Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana

Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv

ABDOMEN, sow's udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur.

Gluttony, intemperance

ABROTANUM, --ONUM, --ONUS the herb lad's love; or, according to most

Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa

Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from

several parts of the world. {Rx} 3, also APSINTHIUM

ABSINTHIATUS, --UM, flavored with wormwood, {Rx} 3

ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth

or Vermouth, cf. {Rx} 3

ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3

ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, {Rx} 138, 139, 147

ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart

ACETABULUM, a "vinegar" cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15

Attic drachms; see Measures

ACETUM, vinegar

---- MULSUM, mead

ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long

fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle

ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER

ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine

ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones

ACINUS, --UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel

ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, {Rx} 145; also see STYRIO

ACOR, --UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag,

galangale

ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste

ACUS, same as ACICULA

Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138

ADULTERAM, "tempting" dish, {Rx} 192

Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; {Rx} 6,

7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive

Advertising cooked ham, {Rx} 287

Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6

Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana,

No. 5-6

AENEUM, a "metal" cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS,

a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service

platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum,

stewed in wine

AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141

Aethiopian Cumin {Rx} 35

"AFFE" (Ger.) Monkey; {Rx} 55; also see Caramel Coloring

AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)

AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. {Rx} 291 seq., 355,

364, 495

---- COPADIA AGNINA, {Rx} 355 seq.

---- AGNI COCTURA, {Rx} 358

---- ASSUS, {Rx} 359

---- AGNUM SIMPLICEM, {Rx} 495

---- TARPEIANUS, {Rx} 363

AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the

victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after

predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the

carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name.

These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with

cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best

quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind

magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer

Albino, writer, p. 10

ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; ---- OVORUM, the "whites" of egg; ---- PIPER,

white pepper, etc.

ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally,

the fish itself when cured in A. cf. MURIA

Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important

Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity,

famous for its luxury

Alexandrine dishes {Rx} 75, 348, seq.

ALICA, spelt. {Rx} 200

ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see

ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée of pounded garlic

whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a

preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything

flavored with garlic or leeks

ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE

Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. {Rx} 57

AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew

AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid

AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; {Rx} 57, 59

Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV

AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin

AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil

AMYGDALA (--UM) Almonds, {Rx} 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil

AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that

which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil

usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present

roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for

the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the

present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM,

which is also a sort of frumenty

Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens

during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7

ANAS, a duck or drake; {Rx} 212-17. ANATEM, {Rx} 212; ANATEM EX

RAPIS, {Rx} 214

Anchovy, a small fish; {Rx} 147; cf. APUA. ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 138;

---- sauce and GARUM (which see) {Rx} 37; ---- omelette {Rx} 147

ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise

ANGUILLA, eel, {Rx} 466-7, 484. cf. CONGRIO

ANGULARUS, a "square" dish or pan

ANISUM, anise, pimpinella

ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, {Rx} 234; ---- JUS CANDIDUM {Rx} 228

ANTIPASTO, "Before the Meal," modern Italian appetizer; the prepared

article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny,

artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil

APER, see APRUS

APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO

Aphricocks, {Rx} 295

APHROS, {Rx} 295

APHYA, see APUA

Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9

---- cookery, influence, p. 16, 23

---- Archetypus, p. 19

---- manuscripts, p. 19, p. 253, seq.

---- Terminology, p. 22

---- dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. 23

---- sauces, p. 24

---- Style of writing, p. 26

---- research, p. 34 seq.

Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252

Apicius, pp. 7, 9

---- The man, p. 9

---- Athenaeus on, p. 9

---- and Platina, p. 9

---- Expedition to find crawfish, p. 9

---- ships oysters, p. 10

---- school, p. 10

---- death, pp. 10, 11

---- reflecting Roman conditions, pp. 14, 15

---- authenticity of, pp. 18, 19

---- writer, p. 26, {Rx} 176, 436

---- confirmed by modern science, p. 33

---- editors as cooks, p. 34 seq.

Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9

APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. {Rx} 104

APOTHERMA (--UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. {Rx} 57;

cf. TISANA

APPARATUS, preparation; ---- MENSAE, getting dinner ready

Appetizers. {Rx} 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the

first dishes served. The "moveable appetizer" of Apicius is very

elaborate, p. 210

Appert, François, {Rx} 24, father of the modern canning methods

Apples, {Rx} 22, 171

APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. {Rx} 329-38. APRINA, PERNA, {Rx} 338,

also APER

APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting,

white bait, or minnow. {Rx} 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a

town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI

AQUA, water; ---- CALIDA, hot w.; ---- CISTERNINA, well w.; ----

MARINA, sea w.; ---- NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables;

---- RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; ---- PLUVIALE, rain w.

AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw

Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram

ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks' names

ARIDA (--US, --UM) dry; ---- MENTHA, dry mint

ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon

ARTOCREAS, meat pie

ARTOPTES, Torinus' title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces,

minced meats

ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM

Asa foetida, use of ---- {Rx} 15, p. 23

ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard

ASCALONICA CEPA, "scallion," young onion

Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, {Rx} 72, ---- and figpecker, {Rx} 132,

---- custard pie, {Rx} 133

ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. {Rx} 266-270

ASSUS, roast

ASTACUS, a crab or lobster

Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq.

---- on Apicius, p. 10

Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158

ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach

ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen

purposes, hence the name, "black room," because of the smoky walls.

Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into

a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues,

and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house

ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. {Rx} 218, seq.

AURATA, a fish, "golden" dory, red snapper. {Rx} 157, 461, 462

AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE

---- NUX, ---- NUCLEUS, kernel of f. {Rx} 297 and in the list of

the Excerpta

AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats

AVIBUS, IN-- {Rx} 220, 21, 24, 27

AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer

AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. ---- HIRCOSAE,

ill-smelling birds, {Rx} 229-30, ---- NE LIQUESCANT, {Rx} 233

BACCA, berry, seed. ---- MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; ---- RUTAE, rue

berry; ---- LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.

Bacon, {Rx} 285-90; see also SALSUM

BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes

are named. {Rx} 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM

----, FABAE, etc. {Rx} 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, {Rx} 431

Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2

Bantam Chicken, {Rx} 237

Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158

Barley Broth, {Rx} 172, 200, 247

BARRICA, {Rx} 173

Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8

Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270

BASILICUM, basil

Bavarian Cabbage, {Rx} 87

Beans, {Rx} 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green ---- {Rx} 247; ---- sauté,

{Rx} 203; ---- in mustard, {Rx} 204

---- Baian style, {Rx} 202

---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM

Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio

Beef, p. 30; shortage of ---- diet, p. 30

---- "Beef Eaters," p. 30

---- dishes, {Rx} 351, seq.

Beets, {Rx} 70, 97, 98, 183

---- named for Varro, {Rx} 70, 97, 98

Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258

Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq.

BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, {Rx} 70

Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana

Birds, Book VI, {Rx} 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling ---- {Rx}

229, 230

BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to

some interpreters

Boar, wild, {Rx} 329-38, p. 314

Boiled Dinners, {Rx} 125

BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, {Rx} 183

BOLETUS, mushroom, {Rx} 309-14

Bordelaise, {Rx} 351

Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268

BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, {Rx} 60. BOTULUS, a

sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, {Rx} 60, 61, 172

BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, {Rx} 431, 481

Bouquet garni, {Rx} 138

BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA

Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater

---- for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61

Brain Sausage, {Rx} 45

---- Custard, {Rx} 128

---- and bacon, {Rx} 148

---- and chicken with peas, {Rx} 198

Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, {Rx} 29, 170, p. 273

BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; ---- CAMPESTRA, turnip; ---- OLERACEA,

cabbage and kale; ---- MARINA, sea kale (?)

Bread, Alexandrine, {Rx} 126; Picentian ----, {Rx} 125. The methods

of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations

of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which

see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that

was as highly developed in his days as was cookery

BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234

Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, {Rx} 376

Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182

Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ----, {Rx} 172, 200, 201

---- How to redeem a spoiled, {Rx} 9

BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352

BUBULUS CASEUS, cow's cheese

BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full;

Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate

morsel; hence probably, Ger. "Buss'l" a little kiss and "busseln,"

to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect

BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier's bread, hard tack

BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, {Rx} 285, 304-8

BULBI FRICTI, {Rx} 308

BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR

BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for

cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions

interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum

is said to derive from the German Butter

CABBAGE, {Rx} 87-92, 103; p. 188

Bavarian, {Rx} 87

Ingenious way of cooking, {Rx} 88

Chartreuse, {Rx} 469

CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp.

183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See

also SALACACCABIA, {Rx} 468. I Exc. 470

CAELIUS, see Coelius

CAEPA, CEPA, onion; ---- ARIDA, fresh onion; ---- ROTUNDA, round

onion; ---- SICCA, dry o.; ---- ASCALONICA, young o. "scallion;"

---- PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety

Calamary, cuttlefish, {Rx} 405, p. 343

CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress

CALLUM, CALLUS (---- PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings.

{Rx} 9, 251, 255

CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, {Rx} 3, where Vermouth was made

CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, {Rx} 43

CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen

CANCER, crab

Canning, {Rx} 23-24

CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274

CAPON, {Rx} 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, {Rx} 166

CAPPAR, caper

CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca

CAPPARUS, CARABUS, {Rx} 397

CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; {Rx} 346-8

Caramel coloring, {Rx} 55, 73, 119, 124, 146

CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed

CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress

Cardoons, {Rx} 112-4

CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, {Rx} 112-3

Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution

period; his chartreuses compared, {Rx} 186, p. 35

CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume

to keep it. {Rx} 35

CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway

CARICA (---- FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the

fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color,

which see

CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date

wine; {Rx} 35

CARO, flesh of animals, {Rx} 10; ---- SALSA, pickled meat

CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; {Rx} 121-3

Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, see also

Carême

CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage

CARYOPHYLLUS, clove

Casa di Forno, Pompeii, "House of the Oven," illustration, p. 2

CASEUS, cheese; {Rx} 125, 303; ---- BUBULUS, cow's cheese; ----

VESTINUS, {Rx} 126

CASTANEA, chestnut, {Rx} 183 seq.

Catesby, writer, {Rx} 322

Catfish, {Rx} 426

CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia

Caul Sausage, Kromeski, {Rx} 45

CAULICULOS, {Rx} 87-92; also Col-- cul-- and coliclus

Cauliflower, {Rx} 87