_Lib. IX. Thalassa_
CHAP. I. SHELLFISH.
CHAP. II. RAY.
CHAP. III. CALAMARY.
CHAP. IV. CUTTLEFISH.
CHAP. V. POLYPUS.
CHAP. VI. OYSTERS.
CHAP. VII. ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES.
CHAP. VIII. SEA URCHIN.
CHAP. IX. MUSSELS.
CHAP. X. SARDINES.
CHAP. XI. FISH SAUCES.
CHAP. XII. BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW.
I
SHELLFISH
_IN LOCUSTA_
[397] SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH
_IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI_ [1]
CHOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY,
CUMIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE
BOILING ADD MUSTARD.
[1] _locusta_, spiny lobster; Fr. _langouste_; G.-V.
_capparus_; not clear, (_cammarus_, a crab); List.
_carabus_--long-tailed lobster or crab, the _cancer
cursor_ of Linnæus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by
Plinius.
[398] BROILED LOBSTER
_LOCUSTAS ASSAS_
MAKES THUS: IF BROILED, THEY SHOULD APPEAR IN THEIR SHELL; [which is
opened by splitting the live lobster in two] SEASON WITH PEPPER SAUCE
AND CORIANDER SAUCE [moisten with oil] AND BROIL THEM ON THE GRILL.
WHEN THEY ARE DRY [1] KEEP ON BASTING THEM MORE AND MORE [with oil or
butter] UNTIL THEY ARE PROPERLY BROILED [2].
[1] i.e. when the soft jelly-like meat has congealed.
[2] Same procedure as today.
[399] BOILED LOBSTER WITH CUMIN SAUCE [1]
_LOCUSTAM ELIXAM CUM CUMINATO_
REAL BOILED LOBSTER IS COOKED WITH CUMIN SAUCE [essence] AND, BY
RIGHT, THROW IN SOME [whole] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A
LITTLE MORE WHOLE CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD
SOME [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [3].
[1] Cumin, mustard and other spices similar to the above
are used for cooking crawfish today.
[2] Sentence ex Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] Malabathrum, aromatic leaves of an Indian tree;
according to Plinius the _laurus cassia_--wild cinnamon.
[400] ANOTHER LOBSTER DISH--MINCE OF THE TAIL MEAT
_ALITER LOCUSTAM--ISICIA DE CAUDA EIUS SIC FACIES_
HAVE LEAVES READY [in which to wrap the mince croquettes] BOIL [the
lobster] TAKE THE CLUSTER OF SPAWN [from under the female's tail, and
the coral of the male] THEREUPON CUT FINE THE [boiled] MEAT OF THE
TAIL, AND WITH BROTH AND PEPPER AND THE EGGS MAKE THE CROQUETTES [and
fry].
It is understood that hen eggs are added to bind the
mince.
[401] BOILED LOBSTER
_IN LOCUSTA ELIXA_
PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.
[402] ANOTHER LOBSTER PREPARATION
_ALITER IN LOCUSTA_
FOR LOBSTER LET US PROPERLY EMPLOY [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, MINT,
RUE, NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND WINE.
[1] Tor. _rectè adhibemus_, sentence not in the other
texts.
II
RAY, SKATE
_IN TORPEDINE_ [1]
[403] [A Sauce for] RAY
_IN TORPEDINE_
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SHALLOTS, [adding] HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A
LITTLE WINE, ALSO A FEW DROPS OF OIL; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, BIND
WITH ROUX.
[1] _torpedo_; the _raia torpedo_ of Linnæus; a ray or
skate.
[404] BOILED RAY
_IN TORPEDINE ELIXA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, MINT, ORIGANY, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, BROTH,
RAISIN WINE. WINE, AND OIL. IF YOU WISH, ADD MUSTARD AND VINEGAR, OR,
IF DESIRED RICHER, ADD RAISINS.
This appears to be a sauce to be poured over the boiled
ray.
Today the ray is boiled in water seasoned strongly and
with similar ingredients. When done, the fish is allowed
to cool in this water; the edible parts are then
removed, the water drained from the meat, which is
tossed in sizzling brown butter with lemon juice,
vinegar and capers. This is _raie au beurre noir_, much
esteemed on the French seaboards.
III
CALAMARY
_IN LOLIGINE_ [1]
[405] CALAMARY IN THE PAN
_IN LOLIGINE IN PATINA_
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, AND OIL TO
TASTE. WHEN COMMENCING TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Calamary, ink-fish, cuttlefish. Cf. Chap. IV. G.-V.
_Lolligine_.
[405a] STUFFED CALAMARY [1]
_IN LOLIGINE FARSILI_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CELERY SEED, YOLKS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH,
WINE, OIL, AND BIND [2].
[1] Ex List., Sch., and G.-V. Evidently a sauce or
dressing. The formula for the forcemeat of the fish is
not given here but is found in {Rx} No. 406--stuffed
Sepia, a fish akin to the calamary.
IV
SEPIA, CUTTLEFISH
_IN SEPIIS_
[406] STUFFED SEPIA
_IN SEPIA FARSILI_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, BASIC
CONDIMENTS [1] HEAT [in water] THROW IN THE CUTTLEFISH; [when done]
SPLIT, THEN STUFF THE CUTTLEFISH [2] WITH [the following forcemeat]
BOILED BRAINS, THE STRINGS AND SKIN REMOVED, POUND WITH PEPPER, MIX IN
RAW EGGS UNTIL IT IS PLENTY. WHOLE PEPPER [to be added]. TIE [the
filled dish] INTO LITTLE BUNDLES [of linen] AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING
STOCK POT UNTIL THE FORCEMEAT IS PROPERLY COOKED.
[1] _Condimenta coctiva_--salt, herbs, roots.
[2] G.-V. treat this as a separate formula.
[407] BOILED CUTTLEFISH [1]
_SEPIAS ELIXAS AB AHENO_ [2]
ARE PLACED IN A COPPER KETTLE WITH COLD [WATER] AND PEPPER, LASER,
BROTH, NUTS, EGGS, AND [any other] SEASONING YOU MAY WISH.
[1] List. connects this article with the foregoing.
[2] Tor. _aheno_ for copper kettle; List. _amylo_.
[408] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK CUTTLEFISH
_ALITER SEPIAS_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, DRY MINT, YOLKS, HONEY, BROTH,
WINE, VINEGAR, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX.
V
POLYPUS [1]
_IN POLYPO_
[409] POLYPUS
_IN POLYPO_
[cook with] PEPPER, LOVAGE, BROTH, LASER, GINGER [2] AND SERVE.
[1] The polypus, or eight-armed sepia, has been
described by Plinius, Galen, Cicero, Diocles, Athenæus
and other ancient writers. The ancients praise it as a
food and attribute to the polypus the power of restoring
lost vitality: _molli carne pisces, & suaves gustu sunt,
& ad venerem conferunt_--Diocles.
Wanting in the Vat. Ms.
[2] Wanting in List. and G.-V. Ex Tor. p. 100.
VI
OYSTERS
_IN OSTREIS_
[410] OYSTERS [1]
_IN OSTREIS_
TO OYSTERS WHICH WANT TO BE WELL SEASONED ADD [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE,
YOLKS, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, AND WINE; IF YOU WISH ALSO ADD HONEY [3].
[1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in the other texts.
[3] Cf. No. 14 for the keeping of oysters. It is not
likely that the oysters brought from Great Britain to
Rome were in a condition to be enjoyed from the
shell--raw.
The above formula appears to be a sort of oyster stew.
VII
[411] ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES
_IN OMNE GENUS CONCHYLIORUM_ [1]
FOR ALL KINDS OF SHELLFISH USE PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A
LITTLE MORE OF CUMIN, HONEY, AND BROTH; IF YOU WISH, ADD [bay] LEAVES
AND MALOBATHRON [2].
[1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms.
[2] Cf. note to {Rx} No. 399.
The shellfish is cooked or steamed with the above
ingredients.
VIII
SEA URCHINS
_IN ECHINO_
[412] SEA URCHIN
_IN ECHINO_
TO PREPARE SEA URCHIN TAKE A NEW EARTHEN POT, A LITTLE OIL, BROTH,
SWEET WINE, GROUND PEPPER, AND SET IT TO HEAT; WHEN BOILING PUT THE
URCHINS IN SINGLY. SHAKE THEM WELL, LET THEM STEW, AND WHEN DONE
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
Plinius states that only a few small parts of the sea
urchin are edible.
[413] ANOTHER METHOD
_ALITER [IN] ECHINO_
PEPPER, A LITTLE COSTMARY, DRY MINT, MEAD, BROTH, INDIAN SPIKENARD,
AND [bay or nard] LEAVES.
[414] PLAIN BOILED
_ALITER_
PUT THE SEA URCHINS SINGLY IN BOILING WATER, COOK, RETIRE, AND PLACE
ON A PLATTER.
[415] IN CHAFING DISH
_IN THERMOSPODIO_ [1]
[To the meat of sea urchins, cooked as above, add a sauce made of bay]
LEAVES, PEPPER, HONEY, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH EGGS IN THE HOT
WATER BATH [2] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] This formula is combined with the preceding in the
original.
[2] Thermospodium; in this respect resembling seafood à
la Newburgh. The thermospodium is an elaborate food and
drink heater, used both in the kitchen and in the dining
room. Our drawing illustrates an elaborate specimen
which was used to prepare dishes such as this one in
front of the guests.
[416] SALT SEA URCHIN
_IN ECHINO SALSO_
[The cooked meat of] SALT SEA URCHIN IS SERVED UP WITH THE BEST [fish]
BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND PEPPER TO TASTE.
Undoubtedly a commercial article like crabmeat today.
The sea urchins were cooked at the fisheries, picked,
shells, refuse discarded, the meat salted and marketed.
The fish was also salted in the shell as seen in the
following:
[417] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
TAKE SALT SEA URCHINS, ADD THE BEST BROTH AND TREAT THEM IN A MANNER
AS TO LOOK LIKE FRESH THAT HAVE JUST COME OUT OF THE WATER.
IX
MUSSELS
_IN MITULIS_ [1]
[418] MUSSELS
_IN MITULIS_
BEST [2] BROTH, FINELY CUT LEEKS, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, MUST [3] AND ADD
WATER TO MAKE A MIXTURE IN WHICH TO COOK THE MUSSELS.
[1] Variously spelled _mytilus_, _mitylus_, _mutulus_,
an edible mussel.
Tor. and List. _merula_, merling, whiting, Fr. _merlan_.
_Merula_ also is a blackbird, which is out of place here.
The Vat. Ms. reads _in metulis_.
[2] Tor.
[3] Tor. _vinum mustum_; List. _v. mixtum_.
X
SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, MULLET
_IN SARDA _[1]_ CORDULA _[2]_ MUGILE_ [3]
[419] STUFFED SARDINE
_SARDAM FARSILEM_
PROPERLY, OUGHT TO BE TREATED IN THIS MANNER: THE SARDINE IS BONED AND
FILLED WITH CRUSHED FLEA-BANE, SEVERAL GRAINS OF PEPPER, MINT, NUTS,
DILUTED WITH HONEY, TIED OR SEWED, WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT AND PLACED IN
A FLAT DISH ABOVE THE STEAM RISING FROM THE STOVE; SEASON WITH OIL,
REDUCED MUST AND ORIGANY [4].
[1] The freshly caught sardine.
[2] _Cordyla_, _cordilla_, the young or the fry of
tunny.
[3] _Mugil_, sea-mullet.
[4] Tor. origany; List. _alece_, with brine.
[420] ANOTHER PREPARATION OF SARDINES
_SARDA ITA FIT_
COOK AND BONE THE SARDINES; FILL WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME,
ORIGANY, RUE, MOISTENED WITH DATE WINE, HONEY; PLACE ON A DISH,
GARNISH WITH CUT HARD EGGS. POUR OVER A LITTLE WINE, VINEGAR, REDUCED
MUST, AND VIRGIN OIL.
[421] SAUCE FOR SARDINES
_IUS IN SARDA_
PEPPER, ORIGANY, MINT, ONIONS, A LITTLE VINEGAR, AND OIL.
Resembling our _vinaigrette_.
[422] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SARDINES [1]
_IUS ALIUD IN SARDA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT [2] COOKED, ONION [chopped], HONEY, VINEGAR,
DILUTE WITH OIL, SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED HARD EGGS.
[1] Another _Vinaigrette_.
[2] Tac. and Tor. _mentam aridam coctam_, dry mint
cooked, which is reasonable, to soften it. Hum., G.-V.
dry mint, cooked onion; there is no necessity to cook
the onion. As a matter of fact, it should be chopped raw
in this dressing. The onion is wanting in Tac. and Tor.
[423] SAUCE FOR BROILED BABY TUNNY
_IUS IN CORDULA ASSA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, RUE, FIGDATE [or its wine] HONEY,
VINEGAR, WINE. ALSO SUITABLE FOR SARDINES.
[424] SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET
_IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONION, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY,
VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.
[1] Tor. _calva_; G.-V. _calvam_. Does not exist. Hum.
_calva legendum puto salvia_.
[425] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET
_ALITER IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_
PEPPER, ORIGANY, ROCKET, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, OIL,
VINEGAR AND MUSTARD.
[1] Same as above.
XI [1]
[426] SAUCE FOR CATFISH, BABY TUNNY AND TUNNY
_IUS IN SILURO _[2]_ IN PELAMYDE _[3]_ ET IN THYNNO_ [4]
TO MAKE THEM MORE TASTY USE [5] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONIONS, MINT,
RUE, SAGE [6] DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.
[1] The twelve chapters of Book IX, as shown in the
beginning of the text are here increased to fourteen by
G.-V., to wit, XII, _IUS IN MULLO TARICHO_ and XIII,
_SALSUM SINE SALSO_, but these are more properly
included in the above chapter XI, as does Tor. All of
the above fish were salt, and probably were important
commercial articles. The _silurus_, for instance, is
best in the river Danube in the Balkans, while the red
mullet, as seen in {Rx} No. 427 came from the sea of
Galilee. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149.
[2] _Silurus_, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish,
in the U. S. called horn-pout--a large catfish.
[3] _Pelamis_, a tunny before it is a year old.
[4] Tunny, Tunafish.
[5] Tor. wanting in the others.
[6] Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 424.
XII
[427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET
_IUS IN MULLO _[1]_ TARICHO_ [2]
IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, DATES, GROUND
MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL,
AND POUR OVER THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING SALT
[4].
[1] Tor. _mulo_, the red sur-mullet--a very esteemed
fish.
[2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee.
Salt mullet as prepared at Tarichea was known as
_Tarichus_. This became finally a generic name for all
kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from
elsewhere. We have an interesting analogy in "Finnan
Haddie," smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, corrupted
into "Finnan," and now used for any kind of smoked
Haddock. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149.
[3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of
condiments for salt fish.
[4] List. uses this last sentence as the title for the
next formula, implying that more salt be added to the
salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be
added which of course, is correct.
XIII
ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?]
_ALITER, SINE SALSO_ [1]
[428] FISH LIVER PUDDING
_SALSUM, SINE SALSO_ [2]
COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, EITHER BROTH
OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND,
IF YOU LIKE, PRESS INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking]
SPRINKLE WITH VIRGIN OIL [7].
[1] Tor.
[2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning
may be, "Salt Fish, without salt pork" as salt fish is
frequently served with bacon.
[3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A
paste or forcemeat of the livers and fish were made.
[4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the
liver of salt meat is used, excepting if the liver of
hare, etc., predominated.
[5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor.
[6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze,
artistically finished, same as we possess them today;
such moulds were made in various styles and shapes. Cf.
{Rx} No. 384.
[7] This is an attempt to make a "fish" of livers, not
so much with the intention to deceive as to utilize the
livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish and
a most ingenious device, requiring much skill.
This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from
being extravagant as it is reputed to be, it is
economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the
utilization of good things which are often discarded as
worthless.
[429] ANOTHER WAY, FOR A CHANGE!
_ALITER VICEM GERENS SALSI_ [1]
CUMIN, PEPPER, BROTH, WHICH CRUSH, ADDING A LITTLE RAISIN WINE, OR
REDUCED WINE, AND A QUANTITY OF CRUSHED NUTS. MIX EVERYTHING WELL,
INCORPORATE WITH THE SALT [2] [fish]; MIX IN A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Alter vice salsi_.
[2] Tor. _& salibus imbue_; List. _& salsa redde_. There
is no sense to Lister's version, nor can we accept G.-V.
who have _et salari defundes_.
[430] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER SALSUM IN _[1]_ SALSO_
TAKE AS MUCH CUMIN AS YOUR FIVE FINGERS WILL HOLD; CRUSH HALF OF THAT
QUANTITY OF PEPPER AND ONE PIECE OF PEELED GARLIC, MOISTEN WITH BROTH
AND MIX IN A LITTLE OIL. THIS WILL CORRECT AND BENEFIT A SOUR STOMACH
AND PROMOTE DIGESTION [2].
[1] Tor., G.-V. _sine_.
[2] The title has reference to salt fish or salt pork;
but the formula obviously is of a medicinal character
and has no place here.
XII [XIV]
[431] BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW
_EMBRACTUM _[1]_ BAIANUM_ [2]
MINCED [poached] OYSTERS, MUSSELS [3] [or scallops] AND SEA NETTLES
PUT IN A SAUCE PAN WITH TOASTED NUTS, RUE, CELERY, PEPPER, CORIANDER,
CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND OIL.
[1] List. _emphractum_--a caudle, a stew. Seafood stews
of this sort are very popular in the South of Europe,
the most famous among them being the _Bouillabaisse_ of
Marseilles.
[2] Baiæ, a very popular seaside resort of the ancients
located in the bay of Naples. The stew was named after
the place. Horace liked the place but Seneca warned
against it.
[3] Tor. _spondylos_; List. _sphondylos_--scallops.
Both terms, if used in connection with the shellfish are
correct. Lister in several places confuses this term
with _spongiolus_--mushroom. This instance is the final
vindication of Torinus, whose correctness was maintained
in {Rx} Nos. 41, 47, 115, _seq._; 120, 121, 183, 309,
_seq._
END OF BOOK IX [1]
_EXPLICIT APICII THALASSA LIBER NONUS_ [2]
[1] It appears to us that Book IX and the following,