_Lib. VII. Polyteles_
CHAP. I. SOW'S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, BACON, TENDERLOIN, TAILS
AND FEET.
CHAP. II. SOW'S BELLY.
CHAP. III. FIG-FED PORK.
CHAP. IV. TID-BITS, CHOPS, STEAKS.
CHAP. V. ROASTS.
CHAP. VI. BOILED AND STEWED MEATS.
CHAP. VII. PAUNCH.
CHAP. VIII. LOINS AND KIDNEYS.
CHAP. IX. PORK SHOULDER.
CHAP. X. LIVERS AND LUNGS.
CHAP. XI. HOME-MADE SWEETS.
CHAP. XII. BULBS, TUBERS.
CHAP. XIII. MUSHROOMS.
CHAP. XIV. TRUFFLES.
CHAP. XV. TAROS, DASHEENS.
CHAP. XVI. SNAILS.
CHAP. XVII. EGGS.
[In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted
in the text of Book VII, namely Chap. X, Fresh Ham and
Chap. XI, To Cook Salt Pork; these being inserted after
Chap. IX, Pork Shoulder, making a total of XIX
Chapters.]
I
SOW'S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, UDDER, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET
_VULVÆ STERILES, CALLUM LUMBELLI COTICULÆ ET UNGELLÆ_
[251] SPAYED SOW'S WOMB [1]
_VULVÆ STERILES_
STERILE SOW'S WOMB (ALSO UDDER AND BELLY) IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER:
TAKE [2] LASER FROM CYRENE OR PARTHIA, VINEGAR AND BROTH.
[1] The vulva of a sow was a favorite dish with the
ancients, considered a great delicacy. Sows were
slaughtered before they had a litter, or were spayed for
the purpose of obtaining the sterile womb.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[252] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
TAKE PEPPER, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR AND
BROTH.
[253] SPAYED SOW'S WOMB
_VULVÆ STERILES_
WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PARTHIAN LASER.
[254] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1] AND BROTH AND A LITTLE CONDIMENT.
[1] Wanting in Lister.
[255] CRACKLINGS, PORK SKIN, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET
_CALLUM, LUMBELLI _[1]_ COTICULÆ, UNGELLÆ_
SERVE WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND LASER (WHICH THE GREEKS CALL "SILPHION")
[2].
[1] Tor., G.-V. _libelli_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[256] GRILLED SOW'S WOMB
_VULVAM UT TOSTAM FACIAS_
ENVELOPE IN BRAN, AFTERWARDS [1] PUT IN BRINE AND THEN COOK IT.
[1] We would reverse the process: first pickle the
vulva, then coat it with bran (or with bread crumbs) and
fry.
II
[257] SOW'S BELLY
_SUMEN_
SOW'S UDDER OR BELLY WITH THE PAPS ON IT IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER
[1] THE BELLY BOIL, TIE IT TOGETHER WITH REEDS, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND
PLACE IT IN THE OVEN, OR, START ROASTING ON THE GRIDIRON. CRUSH
PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH BROTH, PURE WINE, ADDING RAISIN WINE TO TASTE,
THICKEN [the sauce] WITH ROUX AND POUR IT OVER THE ROAST.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[258] STUFFED SOW'S BELLY
_SUMEN PLENUM_
FULL [1] SOW'S BELLY IS STUFFED WITH [2] CRUSHED PEPPER, CARRAWAY,
SALT MUSSELS; SEW THE BELLY TIGHT AND ROAST. ENJOY THIS WITH A BRINE
SAUCE AND MUSTARD.
[1] Full grown, also stuffed with forcemeat.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
III
FIG-FED PORK
_FICATUM_ [1]
[1] Tor. _De Sycoto, id est, Ficato_.
[259] WINE SAUCE FOR FIG-FED PORK
_IN FICATO {OE}NOGARUM_ [1]
FIG-FED PORK LIVER (THAT IS, LIVER CRAMMED WITH FIGS) IS PREPARED IN A
WINE SAUCE WITH [2] PEPPER, THYME, LOVAGE, BROTH, A LITTLE WINE AND
OIL [3].
[1] Tor. _Ficatum, iecur suillum_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Reinsenius, _ficatum_ [_or sicatum_] _projecore_.
According to the invention of Marcus Apicius, pigs were
starved, and the hungry pigs were crammed with dry figs
and then suddenly given all the mead they wanted to
drink. The violent expansion of the figs in the
stomachs, or the fermentation caused acute indigestion
which killed the pigs. The livers were very much
enlarged, similar to the cramming of geese for the sake
of obtaining abnormally large livers. This latter method
prevailed in the Strassburg District until recently when
it was prohibited by law.
[260] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
TRIM [the liver] MARINATE IN BROTH, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, TWO LAUREL
BERRIES, WRAP IN CAUL, GRILL ON THE GRIDIRON AND SERVE.
Goll. Stick figs into the liver by making apertures with
the knife or with a needle.
It is by no means clear that the liver is meant.
IV
TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS
_OFFELLÆ_ [1]
[261] OSTIAN [2] MEAT BALLS
_OFFELLÆ OSTIENSES_
PREPARE THE MEAT IN THIS MANNER [3] CLEAN THE MEAT [of bones, sinews,
etc.] SCRAPE IT AS THIN AS A SKIN [and shape it]. CRUSH PEPPER,
LOVAGE, CUMIN, CARRAWAY, SILPHIUM, ONE LAUREL BERRY, MOISTENED WITH
BROTH; IN A SQUARE DISH PLACE THE MEAT BALLS AND THE SPICES WHERE THEY
REMAIN IN PICKLING FOR TWO OR THREE DAYS, COVERED CROSSWISE WITH
TWIGS. THEN PLACE THEM IN THE OVEN [to be roasted], WHEN DONE TAKE THE
FINISHED MEAT BALLS OUT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH THE BROTH, ADD A
LITTLE RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN. COOK IT, THICKEN WITH ROUX, IMMERSE THE
BALLS IN THE SAUCE AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Ofellæ_; apparently the old Roman "Hamburger
Steak." The term covers different small meat pieces,
chops, steaks, etc.
[2] Ostia, town at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome's
harbour.
[3] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[262] APICIAN ROULADES
_OFFELLAS APICIANAS_
BONE THE MEAT FOR THE [roulades--a pork loin, roll it, tie it] OVEN,
SHAPE ROUND, COVER WITH OR WRAP IN RUSHES. [Roast] WHEN DONE, RETIRE,
ALLOW TO DRIP AND DRY ON THE GRIDIRON BUT SO THAT THE MEAT DOES NOT
HARDEN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUSH [1], CUMIN, ADDING BROTH AND RAISIN
WINE TO TASTE. PLACE THE ROULADES WITH THIS SAUCE TOGETHER IN A SAUCE
PAN [finish by braising] WHEN DONE, RETIRE THE ROULADES AND DRY THEM.
SERVE WITHOUT THE GRAVY SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. IF TOO FAT REMOVE THE
OUTER SKIN [2].
[1] _Cyperis_, _--os_, _--um_, _cypirus_, variants for a
sort of rush; probably "Cyprian Grass."
[2] Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal
with boneless pork chops, pork roulades or "_filets
mignons_."
[263] PORK CUTLETS, HUNTER STYLE
_OFFELLÆ APRUGNEO _[1]_ MORE_
IN THE SAME MANNER YOU CAN MAKE TIDBITS OF SOW'S BELLY [2] PORK CHOPS
PREPARED IN A MANNER TO RESEMBLE WILD BOAR ARE [3] PICKLED IN OIL AND
BROTH AND PLACED IN SPICES. WHEN THE CUTLETS ARE DONE [marinated] THE
PICKLE IS PLACED ON THE FIRE AND BOILED; THE CUTLETS ARE PUT BACK INTO
THIS GRAVY AND ARE FINISHED WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH,
AND ROUX. WHEN THIS IS DONE SERVE THE CUTLETS WITHOUT THE BROTH AND
OIL, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.
[1] G.-V. _Aprugineo_; List. _Offellæ Aprugneæ_, i.e.
wild boar chops or cutlets. Vat. Ms. _aprogneo more_;
Tor. _pro genuino more_; Tac. _aprogeneo_--from
_aprugnus_, wild boar.
Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated
with spices, etc., to resemble venison, and is called
_Mouton à la Chasseur_, hunter style.
[2] This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding
formula, carried over by Torinus.
[3] This sentence only in Torinus.
[264] TIDBITS ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER OFFELLÆ_
THE BALLS OR CUTLETS ARE [1] PROPERLY FRIED IN THE PAN, NEARLY DONE.
[Next prepare the following] ONE WHOLE [2] GLASS BROTH, A GLASS OF
WATER, A GLASS OF VINEGAR AND A GLASS OF OIL, PROPERLY MIXED; PUT THIS
IN AN EARTHEN BAKING DISH [immerse meat pieces] FINISH ON THE FIRE AND
SERVE.
[1] Tor.
[2] Tor. _Summi_; List. _sumis_, i.e. broth of the pork.
[265] TIDBITS IN ANOTHER STYLE
_ALITER OFFELLAS_
ALSO FRY THE CUTLETS THIS WAY: [1] IN A PAN WITH PLENTY OF WINE SAUCE,
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [ANOTHER WAY] [2] THE CUTLETS
PREVIOUSLY SALT AND PICKLED IN A BROTH OF CUMIN, ARE PROPERLY FRIED
[3].
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[2] The texts have two formulæ; by the transposition of
the two sentences the formula appears as a whole and
one that is intelligible from a culinary point of view.
[3] The texts have: _in aqua recte friguntur_; the
_acqua_ presumably belongs to the cumin pickle. To fry
in water is not possible.
V
CHOICE ROASTS [1]
_ASSATURÆ_
[266] ROASTING, PLAIN
_ASSATURAM SIMPLICEM_ [2]
SIMPLY PUT THE MEATS TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN, GENEROUSLY SPRINKLED
WITH SALT, AND SERVE [it glazed] WITH HONEY [3].
[1] Tor. _De assaturæ exquisitæ apparatu_.
[2] Brandt adds "plain."
[3] Corresponding to our present method of roasting;
fresh and processed ham is glazed with sugar.
Roasting in the oven is not as desirable as roasting on
the spit, universally practised during the middle ages.
The spit seems to have been unknown to the Romans. It is
seldom used today, although we have improved it by
turning it with electrical machinery.
[267] ANOTHER STYLE FOR ROASTS
_ALITER ASSATURAS_
TAKE 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, OF LASER [1] JUST AS MANY, 6 OF GINGER, 5
LAUREL BERRIES, 6 SCRUPLES OF PRESERVED LASER ROOT, CYPRIAN RUSH 6, 6
OF ORIGANY, A LITTLE COSTMARY, 3 SCRUPLES OF CHAMOMILE [or pellitory],
6 SCRUPLES OF CELERY SEED, 12 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, AND BROTH AND OIL AS
MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE UP [2].
[1] G.-V. _asareos_ [?] _Asarum_, the herb foalbit, wild
spikenard.
[2] No directions are given for the making of this
compound which are essential to insure success of this
formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the commercial
sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire,
etc.), which are served with every roast.
[268] ANOTHER [Condiment for] ROAST
_ALITER ASSATURAS_
CRUSH DRY MYRTLE BERRIES WITH CUMIN AND PEPPER, ADDING HONEY ALSO
BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. POUR THIS OVER
THE ROAST THAT IS MEDIUM DONE, WITH SALT; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND
SERVE.
[269] ANOTHER ROAST [Sauce]
_ALITER ASSATURAS_
6 SCRUPLES PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES LOVAGE, 6 SCRUPLES PARSLEY, 6 SCRUPLES
CELERY SEED, 6 SCRUPLES DILL, 6 SCRUPLES LASER ROOT, 6 SCRUPLES WILD
SPIKENARD [1], 6 SCRUPLES CYPRIAN RUSH, 6 SCRUPLES CARRAWAY, 6
SCRUPLES CUMIN, 6 SCRUPLES GINGER, A PINT OF BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL.
[1] Tor. _assareos_; cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 267.
[270] ROAST NECK [1]
_ASSATURAS IN COLLARI_
PUT IN A BRAISIÈRE [2] AND BOIL PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH; AND HEAT
THIS WITH THE MEAT IN THE OVEN. THE NECK PIECE ITSELF, IF YOU LIKE, IS
ALSO ROASTED WITH SPICES AND THE HOT GRAVY IS SIMPLY POURED OVER AT
THE MOMENT OF SERVING [3].
[1] A piece of meat from the neck of a food animal,
beef, veal, pork; a muscular hard piece, requiring much
care to make it palatable, a "pot roast."
[2] A roasting pan especially adapted for braising tough
meats, with closefitting cover to hold the vapors.
[3] Tor. combines this and the foregoing formula. G.-V.
_siccum calidum_, for hot gravy. Perhaps a typographical
error for _succum_.
VI
BOILED, STEWED MEATS, AND DAINTY FOOD
_IN ELIXAM ET COPADIA_
[271] SAUCE FOR ALL BOILED DISHES
_JUS IN ELIXAM OMNEM_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, RUE, SILPHIUM, DRY ONION, WINE, REDUCED WINE,
HONEY, VINEGAR, A LITTLE OIL, BOILED DOWN, STRAINED THROUGH A CLOTH
AND POURED UNDER THE HOT COOKED MEATS [1].
[1] A very complicated sauce for boiled viands. Most of
the ingredients are found in the Worcestershire Sauce.
[272] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS
_JUS IN ELIXAM_
MAKE IT THUS: [Tor.] PEPPER, PARSLEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, FIG-DATES,
ONIONS, LITTLE OIL, POURED UNDER VERY HOT.
[273] ANOTHER
_JUS IN ELIXAM_
CRUSH PEPPER, DRY RUE, FENNEL SEED, ONION, FIGDATES, WITH BROTH AND
OIL.
[274] WHITE [bread] [1] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS
_JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM_
WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES IS MADE THUS: [2] PEPPER, BROTH, WINE,
RUE, ONIONS, NUTS, A LITTLE SPICE, BREAD SOAKED TO THE SATURATION
POINT, OIL, WHICH IS COOKED AND SPREAD UNDER [the meat].
[1] Our present bread sauce, somewhat simpler, but
essentially the same as the Apician sauce, is very
popular with roast partridge, pheasant and other game in
England.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[275] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS
_ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM_
ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES CONTAINS: [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY,
LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND
OIL.
[276] WHITE SAUCE FOR DAINTY FOOD
_IN COPADIIS _[1]_ JUS ALBUM_
TAKE CUMIN, LOVAGE, RUE SEED, PLUMS FROM DAMASCUS [2] SOAK IN WINE,
ADD HONEY MEAD AND VINEGAR, THYME AND ORIGANY TO TASTE [3].
[1] Lacking definite description of the _copadia_ it is
hard to differentiate between them and the
_offelæ_.--_Cupedia_ (Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty
dishes, from _cupiditas_, appetite, desire for dainty
fare. Hence _cupedinarius_ (Terent.) and _cupediarius_
(Lamprid.) a seller or maker of dainties, a
confectioner.
[2] _Damascena_; they correspond apparently to our
present stewed (dried) prunes. It is inconceivable how
this sauce can be white in color, but, as a condiment
and if taken in small quantity, it has our full
approval.
[3] G.-V. _agitabis_, i.e. stir the sauce with a whip of
thyme and origany twigs. Cf. note to following.
[277] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR APPETIZERS
_ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN COPADIIS_
IS MADE THUS [1] PEPPER, THYME, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, FENNEL, RUE, MINT
[2], MYRTLE BERRIES, RAISINS, RAISIN WINE, AND MEAD TO TASTE; STIR IT
WITH A TWIG OF SATURY [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] G.-V., rue wanting.
[3] An ingenious way to impart a very subtle flavor. The
sporadic discoveries of such very subtle and refined
methods (cf. notes to {Rx} No. 15) should dispell once
and for all time the old theories that the ancients were
using spices to excess. They simply used a greater
variety of flavors and aromas than we do today, but
there is no proof that spices were used excessively. The
great variety of flavors at the disposal of the ancients
speaks well for the refinement of the olfactory sense
and the desire to bring variety into their fare. Cf.
{Rx} Nos. 345, 369 and 385.
[278] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS
_JUS IN COPADIIS_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, MINT, LEAVES OF SPIKENARD (WHICH THE GREEKS
CALL "NARDOSACHIOM") [_sic!_] [1] YOLKS, HONEY, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH
AND OIL. STIR WELL WITH SATURY AND LEEKS [2] AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Tor. [_sic!_] _spicam nardi_--sentence wanting in
other texts. G.-V. _nardostachyum_, spikenard.
[2] A fagot of satury and leeks! Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos.
276 and 277.
[279] WHITE SAUCE FOR TIDBITS
_JUS ALBUM IN COPADIIS_
IS MADE THUS: [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, NUTS,
WHICH SOAK AND CLEAN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO BE ADDED [2].
[1, 2] First three and last three words in Tor.
[280] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS
_JUS IN COPADIIS_
PEPPER, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, SATURY, SAFFRON, SHALLOTS, TOASTED
ALMONDS, FIGDATES, BROTH, OIL AND A LITTLE MUSTARD; COLOR WITH REDUCED
MUST.
[281] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS
_JUS IN COPADIIS_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY,
VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL.
[282] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS
_JUS IN COPADIIS_
CHOP HARD EGGS, PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, COOKED LEEKS, MYRTLE BERRIES,
SOMEWHAT MORE HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.
[283] RAW DILL SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH
_IN ELIXAM ANETHATUM CRUDUM_
PEPPER, DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, POUR UNDER: VINEGAR, DATE
WINE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST AND OIL TO
TASTE; AND SERVE IT WITH ROAST PORK SHOULDER.
[284] BRINY SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH
_JUS IN ELIXAM ALLECATUM_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, THYME, SHALLOTS, DATES, FISH
BRINE [1] STRAINED HONEY, AND WINE TO TASTE; SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED
GREEN CELERY AND OIL AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _allecem_; Tor. _Halecem_.
VII
PAUNCH
_VENTRICULA_
[285] PIG'S PAUNCH
_VENTREM PORCINUM_
CLEAN THE PAUNCH OF A SUCKLING PIG WELL WITH SALT AND VINEGAR AND
PRESENTLY WASH WITH WATER. THEN FILL IT WITH THE FOLLOWING DRESSING:
PIECES OF PORK POUNDED IN THE MORTAR, THREE BRAINS--THE NERVES
REMOVED--MIX WITH RAW EGGS, ADD NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SAUCE TO
TASTE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SILPHIUM, ANISE, GINGER, A LITTLE RUE;
FILL THE PAUNCH WITH IT, NOT TOO MUCH, THOUGH, LEAVING PLENTY OF ROOM
FOR EXPANSION LEST IT BURSTS WHILE BEING COOKED. PUT IT IN A POT WITH
BOILING WATER, RETIRE AND PRICK WITH A NEEDLE SO THAT IT DOES NOT
BURST. WHEN HALF DONE, TAKE IT OUT AND HANG IT INTO THE SMOKE TO TAKE
ON COLOR; NOW BOIL IT OVER AGAIN AND FINISH IT LEISURELY. NEXT TAKE
THE BROTH, SOME PURE WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, OPEN THE PAUNCH WITH A
SMALL KNIFE. SPRINKLE WITH THE BROTH AND LOVAGE; PLACE THE PIG NEAR
THE FIRE TO HEAT IT, TURN IT AROUND IN BRAN [or bread crumbs] IMMERSE
IN [sprinkle with] BRINE AND FINISH [the outer crust to a golden
brown] [1].
[1] The good old English way of finishing a roast joint
called dredging.
Lister has this formula divided into two; Danneil and Schuch
make three different formulas out of it.
VIII
LOINS AND KIDNEYS
_LUMBI ET RENES_
[286] ROAST LOINS MADE THUS
_LUMBULI ASSI ITA FIUNT_
SPLIT THEM INTO TWO PARTS SO THAT THEY ARE SPREAD OUT [1] SPRINKLE THE
OPENING WITH CRUSHED PEPPER AND [ditto] NUTS, FINELY CHOPPED CORIANDER
AND CRUSHED FENNEL SEED. THE TENDERLOINS ARE THEN ROLLED UP TO BE
ROASTED; TIE TOGETHER, WRAP IN CAUL, PARBOIL IN OIL [2] AND BROTH, AND
THEN ROAST IN THE OVEN OR BROIL ON THE GRIDIRON.
[1] "Frenched," the meat here being pork tenderloin.
[2] G.-V. best broth and a little oil, which is more
acceptable.
IX
HAM
_PERNA_
[287] [Baked Picnic] HAM [Pork Shoulder, fresh or cured]
_PERNAM_
THE HAM SHOULD BE BRAISED WITH A GOOD NUMBER OF FIGS AND SOME THREE
LAUREL LEAVES; THE SKIN IS THEN PULLED OFF AND CUT INTO SQUARE PIECES;
THESE ARE MACERATED WITH HONEY. THEREUPON MAKE DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR
AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH
THE PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH THE DOUGH [bake
slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM THE OVEN AND SERVE [2].
[1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a
preparation similar to streusel, unsweetened.
[2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to
the instructions as closely as possible, using regular
pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were
retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done
and they were served around the ham as a garnish. As a
consequence we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of
Olympus would have sneezed at.
In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on
the wall of his establishment: _Ubi perna cocta est si
convivæ apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut
caccabum._
When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper
for a humorist and clever advertiser; but now we are
convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his
guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were
cooked.
[288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDER
_PERNÆ _[1]_ COCTURAM_
HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY DRESSED ON A PLATTER
[baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER,
WITH SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel
containing red-hot embers].
[1] _Perna_ is usually applied to shoulder of pork,
fresh, also cured.
_Coxa_ is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham.
Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 289.
X
[289] FRESH HAM
_MUSTEIS _[1]_ PETASONEM_ [2]
A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE
SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS,
SPREAD HONEY OVER IT, OR, WHAT'S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED
WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE,
PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS
DONE, POUR HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF SOAK
SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF
IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4].
[1] _Musteus_, fresh, young, new; _vinum mustum_, new
wine, must. Properly perhaps, _Petasonem ex mustaceis_;
cf. note 3.
[2] Hum. _verum petaso coxa cum crure_ [shank] _esse
dicitur...._
Plainly, we are dealing here with fresh, uncured ham.
[3] A certain biscuit or cake made of must, spices and
pepper, perhaps baked on laurel leaves. _Mustaceus_ was
a kind of cake, the flour of which had been kneaded with
must, cheese, anise, etc., the cake was baked upon
laurel leaves.
[4] Tor. continues without interruption. He has the
three foregoing formulæ thrown into one.
XI
[290] BACON, SALT PORK
_LARIDI _[1]_ COCTURA_
COVER WITH WATER AND COOK WITH PLENTY OF DILL; SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE
OIL AND A TRIFLE OF SALT.
[1] Lister, at this point, has forgotten his explanation
of _laridum_, and now accepts the word in its proper
sense. This rather belated correction by Lister
confirms the correctness of our own earlier
observations. Cf. note to {Rx} Nos. 41 and 148.
XII
LIVERS AND LUNGS
_JECINORA SIVE PULMONES_
[291] SHEEP LIVER
_JECINORA H{OE}DINA VEL AGNINA_ [1]
COOK THUS: MAKE A MIXTURE OF WATER, MEAD, EGGS AND MILK IN WHICH
THOROUGHLY SOAK THE SLICED LIVER. STEW THE LIVER IN WINE SAUCE,
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Iecinera h{oe}dina_.
[292] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LUNG
_ALITER IN PULMONIBUS_
LIVER AND LUNG ARE ALSO COOKED THIS WAY: [1] SOAK WELL IN MILK, STRAIN
IT OFF IF OFFENSIVE IN TASTE [2] BREAK 2 EGGS AND ADD A LITTLE SALT,
MIX IN A SPOONFUL HONEY AND FILL THE LUNG WITH IT, BOIL AND SLICE [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] Lungs of slaughtered animals are little used
nowadays. The soaking of livers in milk is quite common;
it removes the offensive taste of the gall.
[3] G.-V. continue without interruption.
[293] A HASH OF LIVER
_ALITER_
CRUSH PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE, PURE OIL, CHOP THE
LIGHTS [1] FINE AND ADD WINE SAUCE [2].
[1] Edible intestines, livers, lung, kidney, etc., are
thus named.
[2] List., Tor., G.-V. have both recipes in one. Dann.
is in doubt whether to separate them or not.
XIII
HOME-MADE SWEET DISHES AND HONEY SWEET-MEATS
_DULCIA DOMESTICA _[1]_ ET MELCÆ_
[294] HOME-MADE SWEETS
_DULCIA DOMESTICA_
LITTLE HOME CONFECTIONS (WHICH ARE CALLED DULCIARIA) ARE MADE THUS:
[2] LITTLE PALMS OR (AS THEY ARE ORDINARILY CALLED) [3] DATES ARE
STUFFED--AFTER THE SEEDS HAVE BEEN REMOVED--WITH A NUT OR WITH NUTS
AND GROUND PEPPER, SPRINKLED WITH SALT ON THE OUTSIDE AND ARE CANDIED
IN HONEY AND SERVED [4].
[1] _Dulcia_, sweetmeats, cakes; hence _dulciarius_, a
pastry cook or confectioner.
The fact that here attention is drawn to home-made sweet
dishes may clear up the absence of regular baking and
dessert formulæ in Apicius. The trade of the
_dulciarius_ was so highly developed at that time that
the professional bakers and confectioners supplied the
entire home market with their wares, making it
convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook to
compete with their organized business, a condition which
largely exists in our modern highly civilized centers of
population today. Cf. "Cooks."
[2 + 3] Tor.
[4] Still being done today in the same manner.
[295] ANOTHER SWEETMEAT
_ALITER DULCIA_
GRATE [scrape, peel] SOME VERY BEST FRESH APHROS [1] AND IMMERSE IN
MILK. WHEN SATURATED PLACE IN THE OVEN TO HEAT BUT NOT TO DRY OUT;
WHEN THOROUGHLY HOT RETIRE FROM OVEN, POUR OVER SOME HONEY, STIPPLE
[the fruit] SO THAT THE HONEY MAY PENETRATE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2]
AND SERVE.
[1] Tor., Tac., Lan. _musteos aphros_; Vat. Ms., G.-V.
_afros_; List. _apios_, i.e. celery, which is farthest
from the mark. Goll. interprets this a "cider apple,"
reminiscent, probably, of _musteos_, which is fresh,
new, young, and which has here nothing to do with cider.
_Aphros_ is not identified. Perhaps the term stood for
Apricots (Old English: Aphricocks) or some other African
fruit or plant; Lister's celery is to be rejected on
gastronomical grounds.
The above treatment would correspond to that which is
given apricots and peaches today. They are peeled,
immersed in cream and sweetened with sugar. Apicius'
heating of the fruit in milk is new to us; it sounds
good, for it has a tendency to parboil any hard fruit,
make it more digestible and reduce the fluid to a creamy
consistency.
[2] The "pepper" again, as pointed out in several other
places, here is some spice of agreeable taste as are
used in desserts today.
[296] ANOTHER SWEET DISH
_ALITER DULCIA_
BREAK [slice] FINE WHITE BREAD, CRUST REMOVED, INTO RATHER LARGE
PIECES WHICH SOAK IN MILK [and beaten eggs] FRY IN OIL, COVER WITH
HONEY AND SERVE [1].
[1] "French" Toast, indeed!--_Sapienti sat!_
[297] ANOTHER SWEET
_ALITER DULCIA_
IN A CHAFING-DISH PUT [1] HONEY, PURE WINE, RAISIN WINE, RUE, PINE
NUTS, NUTS, COOKED SPELT, ADD CRUSHED AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS [2] AND
SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Piperato mittis_. _Piperatum_ is a dish
prepared with pepper, any spicy dish; the term may here
be applied to the bowl in which the porridge is served.
Tac. _Dulcia piperata mittis_.
[2] Dann. Almonds.
[298] ANOTHER SWEET
_ALITER DULCIA_
CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, RUE, AND RAISIN WINE WITH MILK, AND COOK
THE MIXTURE [1] WITH A FEW EGGS WELL WORKED IN, COVER WITH HONEY,
SPRINKLE WITH [crushed nuts, etc.] AND SERVE.
[1] _Tractam_, probably with a starch added, or else it
is a nut custard, practically a repetition of {Rx} Nos.
129 and 143.
[299] ANOTHER SWEET
_ALITER DULCIA_
TAKE A PREPARATION SIMILAR [1] [to the above] AND IN THE HOT WATER
[bath or double boiler] MAKE A VERY HARD PORRIDGE OF IT. THEREUPON
SPREAD IT OUT ON A PAN AND WHEN COOL CUT IT INTO HANDY PIECES LIKE
SMALL COOKIES. FRY THESE IN THE BEST OIL, TAKE THEM OUT, DIP INTO
[hot] HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.
[1] This confirms the assumption that some flour or meal
is used in {Rx} No. 298 also without which this present
preparation would not "stand up."
[2] It is freely admitted that the word "pepper" not
always stands for the spice that we know by this name.
Cf. note 2 to {Rx} No. 295 _et al._
[300] A STILL BETTER WAY
_ALITER_
IS TO PREPARE THIS WITH MILK INSTEAD OF WATER.
[301] CUSTARD
_TYROPATINAM_
ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS DISH AND SWEETEN IT
WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT [1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A
PINT [2] DISSOLVE 3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE
THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON
A SLOW FIRE [in hot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH
PEPPER AND SERVE [3].
[1] _Sextarium._
[2] _ad heminam._
[3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a
far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries
say that the _tyropatina_ is a kind of cheese cake. It
must be borne in mind, however, that the ancient
definition of "custard" is "egg cheese," probably
because of the similarity in appearance and texture.
Cf. {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143.
[302] OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE [1]
_OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE_
FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF OIL WELL BEATEN, TO
MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD
THE EGG PREPARATION, WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place it in
the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN IT OUT INTO A
SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3]
AND SERVE [4].
[1] Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as
"Floating Island"; he, the chef, has completely
misunderstood the ancient formula.
[2] Tor. _sinas bullire_--which is correct. List.
_facies ut bulliat_--which is monstrous.
[3] G.-V.
[4] Tor. continues without interruption.
[303] CHEESE AND HONEY
_MEL ET CASEUM_ [1]
PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND BROTH [brine] OR WITH
SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER [2].
[1] G.-V. _Melca ... stum_; List. _mel castum_, refined
honey; Tac. _Mel caseum_; Tor. _mel, caseum_. Cf. {Rx}
No. 294.
[2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use
salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives;
sometimes a little sugar.
XIV
[304] BULBS [1]
_BULBOS_
SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE CUMIN SPRINKLED OVER.
[1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw
sliced, with the above dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to
{Rx} No. 307.
[305] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; THEREUPON FRY THEM IN
OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY,
HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] BROTH AND A
LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor. _tundes_; probably a typographical error, as
this should read _fundis_, i.e. _infundis_. Wanting in
the other texts.
[306] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PURÉE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY,
HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL.
[1] _Tundes_, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of
{Rx} No. 305, repeated by Tor.
[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1]
_VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT_
COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO
SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH
THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER.
[1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and
business-like recital of recipes is broken by some
interesting quotation or remark.
Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a
posterior reader.
[2] The texts: _qui Veneris ostium quærunt_--"seek the
mouth of Venus."
This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many
writers, as might be expected, into fanciful
speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: _Veneram
mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur._ 1.
XIII, Ep. 34:
_Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra
Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes._
We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works,
M. Teren. Varronis De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we
read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of
reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes,"
and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable
vegetables when properly cooked, we feel inclined to
include these among the term "bulbs." Platina also adds
the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84,
Diæteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying:
_Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi._
[308] FRIED BULBS
_BULBOS FRICTOS_
ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum].
XV
MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1]
_FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI_
[309] MORELS [2]
_FUNGI FARNEI_
MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO
DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the
mushrooms in].
[1] It is noteworthy that the term _spongiolus_ which
creates so much misunderstanding in Book II is not used
here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. {Rx} No. 115.
[2] "Ashtree-Mushrooms."
[310] FOR MORELS
_IN FUNGIS FARNEIS_
PEPPER, REDUCED WINE, VINEGAR AND OIL.
[311] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MORELS
_ALITER FUNGI FARNEI_
IN SALT WATER, WITH OIL, PURE WINE, AND SERVE WITH CHOPPED CORIANDER.
[312] MUSHROOMS
_BOLETOS FUNGOS_
FRESH MUSHROOMS ARE STEWED [1] IN REDUCED WINE WITH A BUNCH OF GREEN
CORIANDER, WHICH REMOVE BEFORE SERVING.
[1] Tor.
[313] ANOTHER STYLE OF MUSHROOMS
_BOLETOS ALITER_ [1]
MUSHROOM STEMS [or buds, very small mushrooms] ARE COOKED IN BROTH.
SERVE SPRINKLED WITH SALT.
[1] Tor. _Boletorum coliculi_; G.-V. _calyculos_.
[314] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MUSHROOMS
_BOLETOS ALITER_
SLICE THE MUSHROOM STEMS [1] [stew them as directed above] AND FINISH
BY COVERING THEM WITH EGGS [2] ADDING PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE HONEY,
BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE.
[1] _Thyrsos._
[2] G.-V. _in patellam novam_; nothing said about eggs.
Tor. _concisos in patellam; ovaque perfundes_; Tac. _ova
perfundis_.
A mushroom omelette.
XVI
[315] TRUFFLES
_TUBERA_
SCRAPE [brush] THE TRUFFLES, PARBOIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PUT SEVERAL
OF THEM ON A SKEWER, HALF FRY THEM; THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN
WITH OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, WINE, PEPPER, AND HONEY. WHEN DONE
[retire the truffles] BIND [the liquor] WITH ROUX, DECORATE THE
TRUFFLES NICELY AND SERVE [1].
[1] This formula clearly shows up the master Apicius.
Truffles, among all earthly things, are the most
delicate and most subtle in flavor. Only a master cook
is privileged to handle them and to do them justice.
Today, whenever we are fortunate enough to obtain the
best fresh truffles, we are pursuing almost the same
methods of preparation as described by Apicius.
The commercially canned truffles bear not even a
resemblance of their former selves.
[316] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE TRUFFLES
_ALITER TUBERA_
[Par]BOIL THE TRUFFLES, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND FASTEN THEM ON SKEWERS,
HALF FRY THEM AND THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH BROTH, VIRGIN
OIL, REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE PURE WINE [1] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE
HONEY; ALLOW THEM TO FINISH [gently and well covered] WHEN DONE, BIND
THE LIQUOR WITH ROUX, PRICK THE TRUFFLES SO THEY MAY BECOME SATURATED
WITH THE JUICE, DRESS THEM NICELY, AND WHEN REAL HOT, SERVE.
[1] Preferably Sherry or Madeira.
[317] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
IF YOU WISH YOU MAY ALSO WRAP THE TRUFFLES IN CAUL OF PORK, BRAISE AND
SO SERVE THEM.
[318] ANOTHER TRUFFLE
_ALITER TUBERA_
STEW THE TRUFFLES IN WINE SAUCE, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE,
BROTH, HONEY, WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL.
[319] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES
_ALITER TUBERA_
BRAISE THE TRUFFLES WITH PEPPER, MINT, RUE, HONEY, OIL, AND A LITTLE
WINE. HEAT AND SERVE.
[320] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES
_ALITER TUBERA_ [1]
PEPPER, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, MINT, CELERY, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, OR WINE,
SALT OR BROTH, A LITTLE OIL.
[1] Wanting in G.-V.
[321] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES
_ALITER TUBERA_ [1]
COOK THE TRUFFLES WITH LEEKS, SALT, PEPPER, CHOPPED CORIANDER, THE
VERY BEST WINE AND A LITTLE OIL.
[1] Wanting in Tor.
This, to our notion of eating truffles, is the best
formula, save {Rx} Nos. 315 and 316.
XVII
TARO, DASHEEN
_IN COLOCASIO_
[322] COLOCASIUM [1] TARO, DASHEEN
_COLOCASIUM_
FOR THE COLOCASIUM (WHICH IS REALLY THE COLOCASIA PLANT, ALSO CALLED
"EGYPTIAN BEAN") USE [2] PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, OR BROTH, AND A
LITTLE OIL; WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX [3] COLOCASIUM IS THE ROOT OF THE
EGYPTIAN BEAN WHICH IS USED EXCLUSIVELY [4].
[1] Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 172, 216, 244; also the
copious explanations by Humelberg, fol. III.
[2] Tor. who is trying hard to explain the _colocasium_.
His name, "Egyptian Bean" may be due to the mealiness
and bean-like texture of the _colocasium_ tuber;
otherwise there is no resemblance to a bean, except,
perhaps, the seed pod which is not used for food. This
simile has led other commentators to believe that the
_colocasium_ in reality was a bean.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture has in recent years
imported various specimens of that taro species
(belonging to the _colocasia_), and the plants are now
successfully being farmed in the southern parts of the
United States, with fair prospects of becoming an
important article of daily diet. The Department has
favored us repeatedly with samples of the taro, or
dasheen, (_Colocasium Antiquorum_) and we have made many
different experiments with this agreeable, delightful
and important "new" vegetable. It can be prepared in
every way like a potato, and possesses advantages over
the potato as far as value of nutrition, flavor, culture
and keeping qualities are concerned. As a commercial
article, it is not any more expensive than any good kind
of potato. It grows where the potato will not thrive,
and vice versa. It thus saves much in freight to parts
where the potato does not grow.
The ancient _colocasium_ is no doubt a close relative of
the modern dasheen or taro. The Apician _colocasium_ was
perhaps very similar to the ordinary Elephant-Ear,
_colocasium Antiquorum Schott_, often called _caladium
esculentum_, or _tanyah_, more recently called the
"Dasheen" which is a corruption of the French "de
Chine"--from China--indicating the supposed origin of
this variety of taro. The dasheen is a broad-leaved
member of the _arum_ family. The name dasheen originated
in the West Indies whence it was imported into the
United States around 1910, and the name is now
officially adopted.
Mark Catesby, in his Natural History of Carolina,
Florida and the Bahama Islands, London, 1781, describes
briefly under the name of _arum maximum Aegypticum_ a
plant which was doubtless one of the tanyahs or taros.
He says: "This was a welcome improvement among the
negroes and was esteemed a blessing; they being
delighted with all their African food, particularly
this, which a great part of Africa subsists much on."
Torinus, groping for the right name, calls it variously
_colosium_, _coledium_, _coloesium_, till he finally
gets it right, _colocasium_.
[3] The root or tubers of this plant was used by the
ancients as a vegetable. They probably boiled and then
peeled and sliced the tubers, seasoning the pieces with
the above ingredients, heated them in bouillon stock and
thickened the gravy in the usual way. Since the tuber is
very starchy, little roux is required for binding.
[4] Afterthought by Tor. printed in italics on the
margin of his book.
XVIII
SNAILS
_COCHLEAS_
[323] MILK-FED SNAILS
_COCHLEAS LACTE PASTAS_
TAKE SNAILS AND SPONGE THEM; PULL THEM OUT OF THE SHELLS BY THE
MEMBRANE AND PLACE THEM FOR A DAY IN A VESSEL WITH MILK AND SALT [1]
RENEW THE MILK DAILY. HOURLY [2] CLEAN THE SNAILS OF ALL REFUSE, AND
WHEN THEY ARE SO FAT THAT THEY CAN NO LONGER RETIRE [to their shells]
FRY THEM IN OIL AND SERVE THEM WITH WINE SAUCE. IN A SIMILAR WAY THEY
MAY BE FED ON A MILK PORRIDGE [3].
[1] Just enough so they do not drown.
[2] Wanting in Tor.
[3] The Romans raised snails for the table in special
places called _cochlearia_. Fluvius Hirpinus is credited
with having popularized the snail in Rome a little
before the civil wars between Cæsar and Pompey. If we
could believe Varro, snails grew to enormous
proportions. A supper of the younger Pliny consisted of
a head of lettuce, three snails, two eggs, a barley
cake, sweet wine, refrigerated in snow.
Snails as a food are not sufficiently appreciated by the
Germanic races who do not hesitate to eat similar
animals and are very fond of such food as oysters,
clams, mussels, cocles, etc., much of which they even
eat in the raw state.
[324] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL AND [a sauce of] LASER,
BROTH, PEPPER AND OIL IS UNDERLAID; OR THE FRIED SNAILS ARE FULLY
COVERED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND CUMIN.
Tor. divides this into three articles.
[325] ANOTHER WAY FOR SNAILS
_ALITER COCHLEAS_
THE LIVE SNAILS ARE SPRINKLED WITH MILK MIXED WITH THE FINEST WHEAT
FLOUR, WHEN FAT AND NICE AND PLUMP THEY ARE COOKED.
XIX
EGGS
_OVA_
[326] FRIED EGGS
_OVA FRIXA_
FRIED EGGS ARE FINISHED IN WINE SAUCE.
[327] BOILED EGGS
_OVA ELIXA_
ARE SEASONED WITH BROTH, OIL, PURE WINE, OR ARE SERVED WITH BROTH,
PEPPER AND LASER.
[328] WITH POACHED EGGS
_IN OVIS HAPALIS_
SERVE PEPPER, LOVAGE, SOAKED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH.
END OF BOOK VII
_EXPLICIT APICII POLYTELES: LIBER SEPTIMUS_ [Tac.]
APICIUS