She describes the gayety of the Paséo, a long, broad avenue planted with

trees, with a large stone fountain, whose sparkling waters were cool and

pleasant, ornamented by a gilt statue of Victory. Here, every evening,

but more especially Sundays and fête days, were to be seen two long rows

of carriages filled with ladies, crowds of gentlemen on horseback riding

down the middle between them, soldiers at intervals keeping order, and

multitudes of common people and beggars on foot. The carriages were for

the most part extremely handsome--European coaches with fine horses and

odd liveries, others in the old Mexican fashion, heavy and covered with

gilding. Hackney-coaches drawn by mules were seen among the finer

equipages. Most families had both horses and mules in their stables, the

latter animal requiring less care than a horse, and capable of enduring

more fatigue. _Carratelas_, open at the sides, with glass windows, were

filled with ladies in full toilet, without mantillas, their heads

uncovered and generally _coiffées_ with flowers as jewels. Equestrians,

on fine horses and handsome Mexican asses, passed and repassed the

carriages without stopping for conversation. Her favorite promenade was

the Viga, where, as in Montezuma's time and long before, in Humboldt's,

in our own, the Indians, early in the morning, brought flowers and

vegetables to market by the canal. There was profusion of sweet peas,

double poppies, blue-bottles, stock gilly-flowers and roses. Each Indian

woman in her _canoa_ looked as if seated in a floating flower-garden,

crowned with garlands of roses or poppies. "Those who sit in the

market," she says, "selling their fruit or vegetables, appear as if in

bowers formed of fresh green branches and many-colored flowers. In the

poorest village church the floor is strewed with flowers, and with

flowers are adorned the baby at its christening, the bride at the altar,

the dead body upon the bier."

In answer to questions about the society women of Mexico, Madame

Calderon writes: "I must put aside exceptions, which are always rising

up before me, and write _en masse_. Generally speaking, the Mexican

señoras and señoritas write, read, and play a little; sew, and take care

of their houses and children. When I say they read, I mean they know how

to read; when I say they write, I do not mean that they can always

spell, and when I say they play, I do not assert that they have a

general knowledge of music. The climate inclines every one to indolence,

both physical and moral. One cannot pore over a book when the blue sky

is constantly smiling in at the open windows." She says that there are

no women in the world more affectionate in their manners than the

Mexicans, and that they invariably make excellent wives, if they are

settled at home with their husbands.

[Illustration: THE VIGA.]

Madame Calderon describes the appearance of the Plaza on Good-Friday:

"The most beautiful and original scene was presented towards sunset in

the great square, and it is doubtful whether any other city in the world

could present a _coup d'oeil_ of equal brilliancy. The Plaza itself,

even on ordinary days, is a noble square, and but for its one fault, a

row of shops called the Parian, which breaks its uniformity, would be

nearly unrivalled. Every object is interesting. The eye wanders from the

Cathedral to the house of Cortés (the Monte de Piedad), and from thence

to a range of fine buildings, with lofty arcades to the west. From a

balcony we could see all the different streets that branch out from the

square covered with gay crowds pouring in that direction to see a great

procession which was expected to pass in front of the palace. Booths,

filled with refreshments and covered with green branches and garlands of

flowers, were to be seen in all directions, surrounded by a crowd

quenching their thirst with orgeat, lemonade, or pulque. The whole

square, from the Cathedral to the _portales_, was covered with thousands

and tens of thousands of figures, all in their gayest dresses, and as

the sun poured his rays down upon their gaudy colors, they looked like

armies of living tulips. Here was to be seen a group of ladies, some

with black gowns and mantillas, others, now that their church-going duty

was over, equipped in velvet or satin, with their hair dressed--and

beautiful hair they have; some leading their children by the hand,

dressed--alas, how they were dressed! Long, velvet gowns trimmed with

blonde, diamond ear-rings, high French caps befurbelowed with lace and

flowers, or turbans with plumes of feathers. Now and then, the head of a

little thing that could hardly waddle alone, might have belonged to an

English dowager-duchess in her opera-box. Some had extraordinary

bonnets, and as they toddled along, top-heavy, one would have thought

they were little old women, without a glimpse caught of their lovely

little brown faces and blue eyes. The children here are very beautiful;

they have little color, with swimming black or hazel eyes, and long

lashes resting on the clear pale cheek, and a mass of fine dark hair

plaited down behind.

"As a contrast to the señoras, with their over-dressed beauties, were

the poor Indian women, trotting across the square, their black hair

plaited with dirty red ribbon, a piece of woollen cloth wrapped round

them, and a little mahogany baby hanging behind, its face upturned to

the sky, and its head jerking along, somehow, without its neck being

dislocated. The most resigned expression on earth is that of an Indian

baby. All these groups are collected by hundreds, the women of the

shop-keeper class in their small white embroidered gowns, with white

satin shoes and neat feet and ankles, _rebozos_, or bright shawls,

thrown over their heads; the peasants and countrywomen, with short

petticoats of two colors, generally scarlet and yellow, thin satin shoes

and lace-trimmed chemises, or bronze-colored damsels, all crowned with

flowers, strolling along, tingling light guitars.

"Add to this motley crowd, men dressed _à la Mexicaine_, with large

ornamented hats and _serapes_, or embroidered jackets, sauntering along,

smoking their cigars; _léperos_, in rags, Indians in blankets, officers

in uniform, priests in their shovel hats, monks of every order;

Frenchmen exercising their wit upon the passers-by; Englishmen looking

on, cold and philosophical; Germans gazing through their spectacles,

mild and mystical; Spaniards, seeming pretty much at home, abstaining

from remarks; and it may be conceived that the scene, at least, presents

variety.

"Suddenly the tinkling of a bell announces the approach of _Nuestro Amo_

(the Host). Instantly the whole crowd are on their knees, crossing

themselves devoutly. Disputes are hushed, flirtations arrested, and to

the busy hum of voices succeeds a profound silence, filled only by the

rolling of coach-wheels and the sound of the little bell."

This scene is almost the same to-day in the public square on

Good-Friday. The costumes of the higher class have now surrendered to

conventional Paris models, but there is a tendency to gaudiness and

display, defying fashion, which makes a Mexican crowd bright with

variegated color.

Madame Calderon's accounts of the unsettled state of the country are

comforting, as showing the immense advance in this respect, in the forty

years since she was in Mexico.

Describing an hacienda not far from the capital, she says: "It is under

the charge of an _administrador_, who receives from its owner a large

annual sum, and whose place is by no means a sinecure, as he lives in

perpetual danger from robbers. He is captain of a troop of soldiers, and

as his life has been spent in persecuting robbers, he is an object of

intense hatred to that free and independent body. He gave us a terrible

account of night attacks from these men and of his ineffectual attempts

to bring them to justice. He lately told the President that he thought

of joining the robbers himself, as they were the only persons in the

Republic protected by government."

"This pestilence of robbers," she says, "which infests the Republic, has

never been eradicated. They are, in fact, the outgrowth of the civil

war. Sometimes, in the guise of insurgents, taking an active part in the

independence, they have independently laid waste the country, robbing

all they met. As expellers of the Spaniards, these armed bands infested

the roads between Vera Cruz and the capital, ruined all commerce, and

without any particular inquiry into political opinions, robbed and

murdered in all directions. Whatever measures have been from time to

time taken to eradicate this evil, its causes remain, and the idle and

unprincipled will always take advantage of the disorganized state of

the country to obtain by force what they might gain by honest labor."

Frequent crosses by the roadside were marks of murders committed by

these highwaymen, yet the Mexican robbers had the reputation of being

kind and considerate bandits. She relates, as a proof of their

occasional moderation, that some ladies "were travelling from Mexico

with a _padre_, when they were met by a party of robbers, who stopped

the coach, and seized every thing, amongst other articles of value, a

number of silver dishes. The _padre_ observed to them that as the plate

did not belong to the ladies, but was lent them by a friend, they would

be obliged to replace it, and requested that one might be left as a

pattern. The reasonable creatures instantly returned one dish and a

cover.

"Another time, having completely stripped an English gentleman and his

servant, and tied them both to a tree, observing that the man appeared

distressed at the loss of his master's shoes, they politely returned and

laid the shoes beside the gentleman."

This drawback to Mexican travel, the terrible bug-bear which still

deters many timid people from venturing themselves in the country, has

ceased to exist since the establishment of real law and order in the

Republic, and especially since railroads have penetrated all the

important parts of the country. The _Guardias Rurales_, a mounted troop

of patrols, is now one of the finest military organizations in the

world. It is said that General Diaz sent for the chiefs of brigandage,

notorious leaders of pillaging bands, and after inquiring how much they

earned on an average by their profession, asked them if they had any

objection to receiving that sum honestly, in a settled income. The

result was the organization, out of this material, of a body of guards

to protect the rural districts. They are stalwart men, with splendid

leather suits and gray sombreros, all ornamented with silver. Their

horses are beautiful animals, all of the same color in one band,

handsomely caparisoned. The men ride well, and the effect of this strong

body, united in the defence of order, instead of lurking apart in

defiance of it, is in the highest degree reassuring. The result is

satisfactory. Tales of highway robbery are relegated to the same shadowy

region as the legends of Aztec atrocities. In the northern, desolate

regions of Mexico, murders and robberies are still perpetrated. It is

often the case that these are committed by other races than Mexicans,

and very seldom, in proportion, can they be charged upon Indians.

Elsewhere is quoted Madame Calderon's observation of a pronunciamento.

The following note has an importance further on in our story, of which

she was at the time unconscious:

"The whole world is talking of a pamphlet written by Señor Gutierrez

Estrada, which has just appeared, and seems likely to create a greater

sensation in Mexico than the discovery of the gunpowder plot in England.

Its sum and substance is the proposal of a constitutional monarchy in

Mexico, with a foreign prince (not named) at its head, as the only

remedy for the evils by which it is afflicted. The pamphlet is written

merely in a speculative form, inculcating no sanguinary measures, or

sudden revolution; but the consequences are likely to be most disastrous

to the fearless and public-spirited author."

XXXI.

RUMORS OF WAR.

We now come to the disastrous period of the war with the United States.

Nothing more unfortunate could have befallen the struggling Republic of

Mexico than to become involved in a foreign quarrel.

For three centuries the country had been under the hands of the Spanish

government which though arbitrary, oppressive, and sometimes tyrannical,

was in general firm and equable, and above all, safe. Laws, such as they

were, were enforced. Personal property, perhaps ill-gotten, was

respected. In spite of plenty of abuses and defects, the daily life of

the inhabitants of Anahuac under the viceroys was comfortable and

secure.

Suddenly, imbued with the ideas of the centuries, the Mexicans began to

play at independence, like children lighting matches. At the instigation

of a few leaders, some of them it is true with high aims, actuated by

the desire of doing good for their country, they drove away their

viceroys, rejected the strong arm of the Spanish authority, and

undertook the difficult task of governing themselves. The trouble was,

not one of them understood the rudiments of the art. There were plenty

of applicants for the highest post of office. Many were tried, but all

were found wanting. Some gave it up themselves; others returned again

and again to the futile task of making stable the shifting sands of

popular opinion.

The only appeal was to arms. Blood was shed, powder and ball were spent,

and a crop of military heroes sprung up, full of ardor, ready to

_pronounce_ at the slightest occasion, and bring an army to the field at

a moment's notice. The sound of rolling cannon was familiar to every ear

in Mexico. The smell of powder had nothing alarming about it. The very

children were satiated with the sight of soldiery, and scarcely troubled

themselves to run to the door to see a regiment go by.

But this was not warfare, real and serious. These armies were not

thoroughly trained to the discipline of battle, and the generals were

not educated in the science of war. Brave they undoubtedly were, and

familiar with scenes of danger and bloodshed; too familiar, it may be,

to value at its proper cost the waste of life and property caused by so

much fighting. Exaggerated ideas of honor and glory, inherent to the

Latin race, pervaded society, and the impression prevailed throughout

the country that the Mexican arms were invincible, because every

regiment and every general had, in turn, put to rout every other in the

country.

[Illustration: VALLEY OF MEXICO]

In this game of independence, the Mexican peoples had exhausted their

resources, destroyed in a great measure the industries of the country,

spent their money, and wasted rivers of blood. Many of their best

generals were either driven from the country, or dead upon the field.

They might have gone on, it is true, _pronouncing_ and killing each

other indefinitely, but for the sharp lesson that was taught them by the

cruel exigencies of a foreign war.

That some lesson should come was perhaps inevitable, like a quick, sharp

box on the ears, to bring such naughty children to their senses, and

stop their foolish trifling with life and reputation. But it was hard

that the blow should come from the hand of a nation which ought to have

taken the place of an elder brother to these foolish and heedless

children,--a hand which should have gently led them to peace and

reconciliation instead of promoting discord.

The Mexicans, undoubtedly, helped to bring upon themselves the

misfortunes that came swiftly upon them. Like all people whose own folly

has put them on the wrong track, they were sure to do the wrong thing.

They were heavily punished accordingly.

The United States had in a hundred years spread over the great western

lands of North America with surprising rapidity, and now approached the

regions which Cortés had laid claim to three centuries before. This

claim was but vague, for the deserts and plains of the north were not

accessible or inviting; still some posts were established, while the

boundary line which should put a stop to the encroachments of either

country was still unsettled. The territory west of the Sabine River and

east of the Rio Grande came under discussion.

Moses Austin, born in Durham, Connecticut, a southwestern pioneer,

applied to the Mexican Commandant-General in Monterey in 1820 for

permission to colonize three hundred families in Texas. Without waiting

for his answer, he set out towards the Sabine River, was robbed and

abandoned in that deserted waste, and died of the disease he caught by

exposure soon after finding his way back to Louisiana. The grant was

made, and given to his son, who had it confirmed in the city of Mexico,

and it was he who founded the colony which has since become the capital

of Texas, named Austin after him. More grants of land were willingly

made by the Mexican government, who thought well of encouraging settlers

as protectors against the savage hordes that infested the northern part

of their country; and colonization went on, chiefly by people of the

United States, until these emigrants to Texas far outnumbered the

Mexicans. The difference of race and education was strongly marked

between these sturdy settlers of Anglo-Saxon origin, and the chance

stragglers from Mexico, not the best specimens of the Latin race. This

population had no sympathy with the pronunciamentos and jealousies of

the capital, and the result, as we have seen, was a revolt against

Mexican rule in 1835, in consequence of the acts of the Federal

government.

Santa Anna hastened to the scene with his army, but the rebellious

forces, under the brilliant command of "Sam" Houston, General, Governor,

and afterward President, were everywhere triumphant, and Texas declared

herself an independent Republic, which maintained its separate existence

between the two great powers on each side of it till 1844, recognized

not only by these, but by the European states.

The subject of the annexation of Texas to the United States began to be

spoken of and strongly urged by the Texans themselves, but the movement

was wholly disapproved by the party in that country opposed to the

extension of slavery, since by the agreement then existing, all new

territory south of a certain line permitted slavery, while the States

north of it abjured it. In spite of the opposition of the North,

however, Texas was admitted into the American Union by an act ratified

in Congress in March 1845.

This act was regarded by the Mexicans as an act of aggression. As Texas

was at the time wholly independent of Mexico, its right was undoubted to

annex itself to another country; but on the part of the United States

the act is scarcely to be justified according to the laws of honor and

international good faith. It was at any rate approved only by one

section of the country, the other regarding every additional step

leading to a foreign war with a neighboring government hitherto

friendly, with regret and displeasure.

The party which favored the measure began to make preparations for

hostile demonstrations with alacrity. The American Republic had now long

been at peace. Prosperous, safe from enemies abroad, peaceful at home,

with plenty of money in her treasury, her military schools training a

small body of officers in the latest science of the art of war, she was

in perfectly good condition to resist an attack, and had the cause been

a popular one, every State in the Union would have offered with alacrity

volunteer troops for the field.

The correspondence between the two countries grew embittered, and as

time went on more and more unfriendly. During the negotiation of the

treaty for annexation, war was permitted to go on in Texas; the

government of the United States protested. In the war of words which

followed, the Mexicans made and unfortunately reiterated the declaration

that they should consider the ratification of the treaty as equivalent

to a declaration of war.

During this period of agitation and irritation, the Mexicans went on

with "Plans" and pronunciamentos. Herrera was President during 1844,

during which short period Congress decreed the destruction of Santa

Anna. Farías returned to the Republic from a voluntary exile abroad.

General Paredes on his way to the north with an army to check the

approach of United States forces _pronounced_ a revolution and "Plan" at

San Luis, and returned to Mexico to enforce it. He was made President,

and remained in office six months, giving way then to a pronunciamento

against him which resulted in putting General Don Nicholas Bravo at the

head of government.

In all this confusion, hurrying to and fro to find a government, there

was no true leader of affairs to dictate wise and moderate steps in such

an emergency. Santa Anna, the military genius of the country, was ready

to serve it in his own way, by placing himself at the head of an army.

Troops were not wanting, for popular indignation was roused, and popular

vanity stimulated by the idea of a war with the powerful neighboring

Republic. It was pretty generally thought in the cities and towns that

the result of the combat would be an easy victory. The one thing

Mexicans were sure of about themselves was that they could fight, and

the popular impression about the United States on the other hand, was

that they could not. They had long been at peace, and without practice

in arms, while it was well known that the war was unpopular in the

Northern States.

The Mexicans therefore rushed to arms with their usual alacrity, little

fearing the result. The Indians, all unconscious of the horrors of an

invading army swarming over their villages and devastating the country,

saw armies marching towards the north through their pueblos with

indifference. Their eyes and ears were but too familiar with the sound

of drum and the flying colors of the national flag. Their interests,

their liberty, had little to do with the tempests that raged over them.

The Mexican army was characterized by many of the necessary qualities of

good soldiery. Patient and suffering, requiring but little subsistence,

with great capacity for enduring fatigue, and with enough physical

courage to enable them to encounter danger without fear, the Mexican

soldiers when properly led compared well with the troops of other

nations. But corruption existed among their officers from the highest to

the lowest grade; commissions were sometimes given by the functionaries

of government as rewards for private services, discreditable to the

giver and recipient. The army included, besides the troops of the line,

the active battalions of the different states and the local national

guards of the cities.

The cavalry had a high reputation, both at home and abroad. Many other

corps were well disciplined, and the men were expert in all feats of

horsemanship, since riding is now a universal accomplishment in the

country where, three hundred years ago, the horses of the Conquistadores

were regarded as supernatural creatures. Those of Mexico are considered

inferior in speed and power, though possessing endurance in a remarkable

degree. The carbines with which the cavalry were armed were, for the

most part, of a model behind the times, and useless when accuracy of aim

was necessary.

The Mexican artillery contained many foreigners among its officers; its

juniors were the pupils of the Military College at Chapultepec, where

they were well taught the theory of arms. Mexican revolutions had given

them plenty of practice, and in gunnery they were exceedingly

proficient. Their guns were fine, but clumsily mounted, and therefore

hard to move. Light artillery, as practised by modern troops, was but

little known or used among the Mexicans until it was taught them by the

enemy.

The infantry was in many respects tolerably well drilled, and severe

discipline was enforced with the privates. Ceremonious etiquette and

detail duties were punctiliously observed. The muskets of the infantry

were inferior, and the men were by no means proficient in their accurate

use.

The organization of the staff depended much on the general who happened

to be in command. There existed an enormous disproportion of generals,

and their number was so great that it was said at the time they had

rather a brigade of generals than generals of brigade. The country was

full of arms and munitions of war, such as they were, of ancient

manufacture; but for replenishing the supply, Mexico had no resources,

beyond the repair of partial damages. Such an establishment as a

national armory was unknown in the country.

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