CHAPTER VI

THE CHAIN MAIL PERIOD, 1180-1250

[Illustration: FIG. 96.]

The essential differences between this period and the last are: (1)

the substitution of chain mail for the jazeraint, mascled, and scale

armour which had formerly been used; (2) the adoption of the pot-helm

or heaume as a secondary defence for the head in place of the conical

helmet, the coif-de-mailles, or the pot-de-fer under the mail; (3) the

introduction of the sleeveless surcoat and the crest.

[Illustration: FIG. 97.--Painted “Pot Helmet,” _c._ 1241.]

_The Heaume._--The term “heaume” may perhaps by some be deemed to be

hardly applicable to the head-defence when first introduced, inasmuch

as it was small in size, fitted closely to the head, and was in most

respects a helmet. But inasmuch as a second defence was worn underneath

it from its very inception, the word “heaume” is an appropriate

designation, as it infers a reinforcement to an existing protection

in the next few centuries during which it is constantly in evidence.

It may readily be divided into two distinct classes, namely, those in

which the plates composing it are riveted together so as to form one

piece, and secondly, those in which a movable ventail can be affixed.

Further subdivisions may be made if desired, such as flat-topped,

round-topped, and sugar-loaf. The word “heaume” or helm among the

northern nations simply meant a covering of any kind for the head, and

we have an example in the Anglo-Saxon wærhelm, of which examples have

been given in this work. Of the first heaumes the flat-topped, or

those with slightly curved crowns, were probably the earliest, of which

the woodcut No. 96 furnishes an example.

A helm which is preserved in the Musée d’Artillerie in Paris probably

exemplifies the transition between the Norman helmet and the barrel

heaume. The conical Norman crown is preserved, but instead of the

pendent neck and cheek guards and nasal, the head and face are entirely

covered by a cylinder of iron, which is complete but for a vertical

slit covered by a projecting nasal and two transverse occularia, one

on either side. In England very early examples may be seen upon the

monumental effigy of Hugh Fitz Eudo, in Kirkstead Chapel, Lincolnshire,

and in a slightly modified form in the carvings of the Presbytery

arcade of Worcester Cathedral, also in the groups of the Painted

Chamber, Westminster. Holes for breathing purposes are entirely absent,

the sole openings being a pair of horizontal occularia separated

by a perpendicular band. In this class may be included the painted

pot-heaume on a parchment MS. dating approximately from the year 1241,

which is shown coloured in green and white diagonal stripes, and is

now in the town library of Leipzic (Fig. 97). This flat-topped variety

appears to have been viewed with much favour, for we have many examples

of it in this period and in that immediately following. For instance,

the seal of Roger de Bigod, Earl of Norfolk (1231 to 1240) (Fig. 98),

exhibits a heaume which is flat-topped, furnished with two occularia,

and nine small square breathing holes on either side, strengthened with

cross pieces of iron. The seal of Richard de Clare, Earl of Gloucester

and Hertford, who died in 1262 (Fig. 99), shows a flat topped helmet

of cylindrical fashion, in which the occularium is formed by one

ornamental wavy slit of which the lower edge is slightly cusped. The

helmet of Hamelin, Earl of Surrey and Warenne, 1202 (Fig. 100), is of

the round-topped variety, and is remarkable for the narrow occularium

and the complete absence of any breathing holes. It is taken from the

Cott. MS., Julius, C. VII.

[Illustration: FIG. 98.--From the seal (1231-1240) of Roger le Bigod,

Earl of Norfolk.]

[Illustration: FIG. 99.--From the seal of Richard de Clare, Earl of

Gloucester and Hertford (_d._ 1262).]

It is difficult to see the protection against a lance or sword-thrust

afforded by the heaume of Hugh de Vere, Earl of Oxford, _d._ 1263 (Fig.

101), unless an interior plate was in use to reinforce the numerous

openings in the fore part. The peculiarity of the surcoat covering the

neck should be noticed, as it is uncommon at this period. From the

examples given it will be apparent that from the year 1180 to 1250, the

era under discussion, no heaume is represented with a movable visor,

and this may be taken as a distinguishing feature, inasmuch as they

appear shortly afterwards.

[Illustration: FIG. 100.--Helmet of Hamelin, Earl of Surrey and Warenne

(_d._ 1202). (From MS. Cott., Julius, C. vii.)]

[Illustration: FIG. 101.--From the seal of Hugh de Vere, Earl of Oxford

(_d._ 1263).]

[Illustration: FIG. 102.--Interlinked chain mail showing method of

construction.]

[Illustration: FIG. 103.--Sir John de Bitton, Bitton Church,

Somersetshire, 1227.]

Whatever doubts may exist respecting the presence of true chain mail in

the early Norman period in conjunction with mascled, scale, leather,

horn, and jazeraint work generally, no misconception can arise with

respect to the epoch under consideration, where, together with the

heaume and the plastron-de-fer, it formed the sole defence of the

knight. Chain mail has existed from very remote antiquity, but owing

to its nature is of such a perishable quality, exposing the maximum of

surface to atmospheric oxidation, that practically no examples have

come down to us of all the vast quantity fabricated in remote ages.

There are in the British Museum some aggregations of iron rust brought

from the excavations at Nineveh, which experts assert have once been

hauberks of chain mail of the true pattern (so far as interlocking is

concerned), and hence are credited with being the earliest examples in

existence. That the Romans used rings, together with discs and plates,

as defensive covering, backed by a substratum of a tough textile

fabric, is well known; but whether these rings were so interlinked

as to form a true chain mail has been much questioned. Discoveries

have, however, been made from time to time which tend to prove that

they were not unacquainted with it, and taking into consideration the

extent of territory they possessed, and the number of nations owning

their sway, it would be a matter for wonder if they were ignorant of

its existence. Sculptures may be referred to which appear to indicate

true chain mail, but so many conventional styles and methods were used

by artists to indicate defensive equipment, that it is difficult to

arrive at a definite settlement of the question. That this means of

protection originated in the East is undoubted, where its coolness

would be a great advantage; that it spread in some mysterious way to

the Teutonic nations of the West is also certain, and we must look

for its introduction there to an age long prior to the time of the

Crusades. It was imitated, however, by the unskilful western artificers

in such a manner that immense weight occurred and became an inseparable

condition, and in this manner during the early Crusades it came

into contact with the light chain mail, characteristic of Oriental

workmanship, covering the nomadic cavalry of the East. These horsemen

were enabled in consequence to move with a swiftness and freedom quite

impossible to the crusading knights, thus being forcibly reminiscent

of the ponderous Spanish galleons of the Armada, and the small but

handy English vessels. In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the

cost of true chain mail was prohibitory to all but the very wealthy,

in spite of great quantities which fell to the lot of the victors in

Palestine. The manufacture varies under the conditions of time, place,

and requirements. Wire, or what answered for wire, was made in the

earlier periods of a very rough character, in the manufacture of which

the hammer evidently played an important part; but later on, when the

art of wire-drawing became known, the cross section of a link exhibits

as perfect a circle as it would if of modern construction. This wire

was wound tightly round an iron core of convenient size, cut off in

rings, and each ring separately treated by flattening the overlapping

ends, piercing them with a steel punch, and inserting a small rivet.

This rivet was either hammered to flatten it, or it was finished off

in a vice. The general method in almost every coat of mail was for one

ring to interlink with four others; a few variations occur, however,

such as rows of rings occasionally interlinking with other rows above

and below, the use of alternate double rings, &c. From the foregoing

it will readily be seen that the cost of production of chain mail

in labour alone must have been excessive. The strengthening of the

mail by insertion of leather straps was occasionally done, the straps

being carried through the links in horizontal rows, while vertical

rows of strapping in addition to the foregoing are not unknown. In

the metalwork, also, the resistance of mail could be considerably

augmented by enlarging the rivet joinings. Considering the intricate

nature of mail, it is no matter for wonderment that neither in the

centuries under consideration nor in those immediately following do

we find the common soldier clad in true chain mail, as every portion,

large or small, would be carefully retained by the knightly wearer. The

incised slab of Sir John de Bitton, in Bitton Church, Somersetshire,

1227 (Fig. 103), may be taken as an excellent example of this early

period preserved in a monumental effigy: the large shield covering the

greater part of the body has no guige, and is necessarily quite flat,

though doubtless convex in reality. The coif-demailles is separate

from the hauberk, and has a lappet overlying the upper part of the

gorget to protect the junction there. The length of the hauberk can

only be surmised, inasmuch as the lower border is not shown, but from

other examples we glean that it reached nearly to the knees. The mail

gloves are also distinct from the hauberk, and bands, laces, or straps

are used to protect the junctions with the sleeves: separate fingers

are not shown, but the gloves are precisely similar to the mitten

gauntlets of the end of the century. The chausses are of chain mail,

and continuous with the covering for the feet. The heaume is not shown;

it is probable that the flattish configuration of the upper part of the

head indicates that a pot-de-fer of some kind was worn under the coif,

as in Fig. 104. The sword is long and broad, the hilt having short,

straight quillons and a cylindrical grip, terminating in a circular

pommel. The spurs are of the short pryck form. It should be noticed

that the artist has drawn the figure too large for the slab, and has

consequently been compelled to encroach upon the bevelled edges.

[Illustration: FIG. 104.--Rich. Wellesburn de Montfort, _c._ 1270.

Hitchenden Church, Bucks.]

_The Surcoat_ is of the sleeveless variety, one of the distinguishing

features of this period, and reaches nearly to the heels, being, as

usual, split up in front and probably also behind, for convenience in

riding. It was introduced in order to guard the mail from rain, and

indirectly as some protection against the heat of the sun’s rays; but

the chief reason for its adoption was that it afforded a means for

recognising the wearer, whose features were now completely hidden by

the heaume, thus rendering it impossible in the hurly-burly of battle

to know friend from foe. Previous to this the nasal helmet, although

covering but part of the features, had at times led to confusion, even

as early as the battle of Hastings as previously stated. Thus heraldry,

which up to this time had only been in an incipient condition, suddenly

found itself of the highest importance, and developed in the course

of succeeding centuries into a science, the study of which was deemed

absolutely necessary for all pretending to the possession of gentle

blood. The surcoat had its inception in the long, flowing tunic

which during the last period dealt with had been worn underneath the

hauberk, as shown upon the two great seals of King Richard I., and the

suggestion would be natural to transfer the latter to the outermost

position, leaving to the padded gambeson alone the duty of supporting

the weight of the hauberk. The first English monarch to appear in this

military attire as an outer garment was King John, and he is shown

thus habited upon his great seal: while his rival, the Dauphin Louis,

who proved such an unwelcome visitor in the latter part of his reign,

is similarly represented upon the French seal, as may be seen in the

Harl. MS. 43, B. VII., date 1216, to which it is appended. To the

Cott. MS., XIX. 2, the seal of Alexander II. of Scotland, 1214-1249,

is attached, and this also shows the surcoat. It was of white material

or self-coloured, sometimes diapered, and generally bore heraldic

charges. The length varied, and both long and short surcoats are seen

of approximately the same date; the former reaching at times to the

heels and the latter to the hem of the hauberk. The material varied

with the means and taste of the wearer; the better descriptions were

of silk, richly embroidered with gold and sometimes decorated with

precious stones, cloth of gold of the richest quality being also used.

[Illustration: FIG. 105.--Taken from the tomb of Geoffrey Plantagenet,

Count of Anjou.]

_The Crest._--Although much uncertainty exists among exponents of

the art of heraldry upon the origin of the crest, yet a little

investigation leads to the conclusion that it need not be a matter

of speculation or conjecture. The first example of the nature of a

crest appears upon the cap of Geoffrey, Count of Anjou, died 1150;

his monumental slab in the museum at Le Mans, which stood formerly in

the cathedral there, exhibits the figure of a lion (Fig. 105). The

helmet of Philip d’Alsace, Count of Flanders (_c._ 1181), shows a lion

painted upon the side of the same character as another appearing upon

his shield; but what is generally acknowledged to be the earliest

authenticated example of a crest fulfilling all the desired conditions

is that of Richard the Lion Heart, who upon his great seal shows a

fan-shaped ornament surmounting the heaume, and upon the base is

painted a lion passant (Fig. 106). One of the earliest instances of

the use of a crest on the Continent is that afforded by a MS. in the

Royal Library at Berlin, and belonging to the end of the twelfth

century (Fig. 107). In this case an actual figure, that of a red lion,

appears, and not paintings, as in the two examples previously cited.

It is possible that the adoption of a crest upon the helmet may have

been partly of a defensive character, for the effect of a sword-cut

would be very materially modified after passing through a stiff

erection of steel plate or of tough cuir-bouilli, while against the

mace and the pole-axe it would also afford some slight protection. In

support of this conjecture it may be noticed that crests at first were

ridged and serrated, somewhat after the style which distinguished the

pike-guards of the fifteenth century in their embryonic stage, as if

purposely designed to arrest the edge of a weapon. The many examples

which occur in an undecorated form preclude the thought that they were

invented in order to bear heraldic cognisances, although they were

quickly seized upon to fulfil the duty hitherto borne by the shield and

surcoat, namely, to afford means of identifying the wearer. Of course

the fan-shaped ornament under consideration may have simply been the

outcome of that instinct for personal adornment and decoration which

appears to be inherent in the human race, and which manifested itself

in the mediæval period much more than now; but when it is considered

that many of these fans are carried forward well over the face and at

the same time far backwards, the conclusion is almost compelled that

they originated in an endeavour to secure more protection for the top

of the head than the crown of the heaume afforded. The great crests of

a subsequent period were never used in actual combat, but were reserved

exclusively for tournament purposes.

[Illustration: FIG. 106.--Heaume, Cœur de Lion.]

[Illustration: FIG. 107.--“Pot Helmet,” from the _Eneit_ of Heinrich

von Veldeke.]

_The Shield_ during this period was cut off as a rule in a straight

line at the top, and was convex, so as to partially enclose the figure

(see Fig. 108). It gradually decreased in size, until towards the close

it became the small, well-known “heater-shaped” shield which remained

in vogue for such a lengthy period. It was invariably decorated with

the armorial bearings of the wearer, which in the early part of

the chain mail period were mostly fanciful or devotional and of a

transitory character, but became hereditary as it progressed. The only

weapon of importance introduced was the arbalest, which will be dealt

with in the next period.

[Illustration: FIG. 108.--From the seal (1315) of John de Bretagne,

Earl of Richmond.]

The equipment of the ordinary rank and file of the chain mail period

did not vary in any essential features from that which preceded it.

In Fig. 88 we have two foot soldiers from Harl. MS. Y6, one of whom

wears the Norman helmet, now truncated, with a nasal, which apparently

is very long and wide. A similar helmet, but minus the nasal, defends

his companion. The usual hauberk of chain mail or a cheaper substitute

covers the body, and the legs are undefended. The mode of wearing

the stockings and the cross bar below the leaf-shaped head of one

spear tends to the belief that the illuminator was of Saxon blood

or depicting others of that descent. The shields are suspended by

guiges in both cases, and the fanciful decorations illustrate the

assertions previously made in this chapter. In woodcut No. 109 a very

characteristic group of soldiery of about the year 1220 is shown,

taken from Harl. MS. 4751. The heavily-armed arbalestier in pot-helm

and mail is one of a force defending a castle, and has discharged a

quarrel which transfixes an archer of the attacking party. Before

him, and apparently without any defensive equipment other than a

chapelle-de-fer, is a foot soldier with a military pick in his right

hand and a sword of short dimensions in the left. An arbalestier is

probably shown in the third position from the front, and an archer

fourth, while the fifth is unmistakably a slinger. As was generally

the rule, no protective covering was allowed the slingers--the one

in question has not even a hat--who from the nature of their weapon

were perforce compelled to be always in open order when in action and

at a distance from the enemy, and presumably suffered less than the

closely-packed bodies of men-at-arms, billmen, and even archers. His

sling appears to be in no way different to the Saxon weapon shown in

Fig. 70. The last man is clad in a coif and hauberk of mail, and is

armed with an axe. At this period a weapon appears in the illuminated

MSS. which is apparently of recent introduction, namely the Staff Sling

or Fustibal. It is generally shown in besieging operations pitted

against the defenders on the walls, or in naval warfare as in Fig.

110. The action of the sling is readily seen, the loop at the end

allowing the bag to disengage itself automatically at the psychological

moment, and to discharge the stone. In this case it seems to be charged

with some combustible material to be hurled on board an opposing ship.

The slinger is as usual bareheaded and devoid of bodily defences. With

him is an archer also discharging combustibles affixed to the end of an

arrow. He is habited in a sleeveless leather hauberk strengthened with

round plates, presumably of metal; a coif of mail or leather covers his

head. The third figure carries a sword, spear, and pole-axe, possibly

his own, and also the close-quarter weapons of the projectile throwers.

[Illustration: FIG. 109.--Soldiers, _c._ 1220. (Harl. MS., 4751.)]

[Illustration: FIG. 110.--Staff-sling, &c. (MS. by Matthew Paris.)]

The equipment of a man-at-arms at the close of this period is well

shown in Fig. 111, from Auct. D. 4, 17, in the Bodleian Library. It

dates from about 1250, and illustrates the defensive properties of

leather in combination with iron. The steel chapelle-de-fer covers

a chain mail coif which may be part of a continuous hauberk, as the

arms and hands are covered with mail of the same description. Bands

of leather round the throat afford the protection of a gorget: they

are affixed to a hauberk composed of leather scales of large size and

leaf-like shape showing the midrib, while a belt round the waist and

pendent leaves on the skirt complete a most effective means of bodily

defence. The legs are enclosed in soft leather chausses protected by

metal studs, upon which is a cross-gartering of leather thongs. The

only weapon shown is an axe of formidable proportions. A spearman of

_c._ 1280 is shown in Add. MS., 11639, representing Goliath of Gath, in

which a chapelle-de-fer is a feature (Fig. 112).

[Illustration: FIG. 111.--Armour of cuir-bouilli, _c._ 1250.]

[Illustration: FIG. 112.--Chapelle-de-fer, _c._ 1280. Figure of Goliath

from Add. MS., 11639.]

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