However, I am theologising too much, whilst I am deviating from the

subject of these lines. Nor could I think of giving here, even in outline,

the history of the oldest Jewish community in Europe. This has been

already admirably done by Dr. A. Berliner, who has made the history of the

Jews of Rome the subject of his studies for nearly a quarter of a century.

I intend only to reproduce here, in a stray fashion, some of those

impressions and reflections which, I am certain, must occur to every

Jewish traveller in Italy.

Now I do not think for a moment that we Jews should have a point of view

of our own for looking at things and men in this paradise of Europe. It

would be as silly to have a Jewish Baedeker as to think of orthodox

mathematics or an ecclesiastical logic or a racial morality—though

unfortunately there exist such things. But on the other hand, if we have

not, like the fox in the fable, left our heart at home, let us not do

violence to our feelings by passing over everything Jewish, over sights

which might remind us of our history, with a certain indifference which

would be affected on our part. We are not all little Goethes, nor even

little Ruskins, and our artistic enjoyment is hardly so intense as to shut

our hearts against impressions which force themselves upon us either by

the way of remembrance of the past, or even as a living contrast in the

present.

It so happened that my first visit to the Vatican was on a Friday. After

doing my work in the Vatican Library, which is open till noon, I went into

the adjoining Church of St. Peter.

One should be, like the angel of death in the legend, full of eyes,

properly to see all the wonders of art and marvels of architecture at

which human genius and piety laboured busily through centuries, in

adorning the grandest of sacred buildings in the world. But there is

Baedeker or Murray serving at least as a pair of good spectacles to the

layman, and it was by their aid that I made my round in St. Peter. But lo,

whilst you are observing the celebrated Pietà by Michael Angelo, and,

according to the instruction of your guides, admiring both the grief of

the Mother and the death of the Son, you notice in its vicinity a little

column, surrounded by rails to which the pilgrims approach with a certain

awe; for “Tradition affirms it to have been brought from Jerusalem.”

Naturally, one is instantly reminded of the report, given by the famous

traveller of Tudela, of the curiosities of Rome, which among other things

records, “That there are also to be seen in St. Giovanni in Porta Latina

(probably meant for Lateran) the two brazen pillars, constructed by King

Solomon of blessed memory, whose name, Solomon, the son of David, is

engraved upon each; of which he was also told that every year about the

9th of Ab (the anniversary of the destruction of Jerusalem), these pillars

sweat so much that water runs down from them.” So far Benjamin of Tudela

in the twelfth century. In our days pillars weep no longer, and even of

men it is considered a special sign of good breeding to behave pillar‐

like; but a sigh is still permissible at the sight of this temple‐column,

which in its captivity symbolises, not less than the Pietà, the grief of a

whole people. Of course, not possessing on the spot either the _Itinerary_

or even Urlick, one is unable to establish the connection between these

two traditions and their claim to authenticity. Perhaps one may even

comfort oneself on the same ground on which the famous curé tried to

appease his flock who were sobbing bitterly at his telling them the

Passion story. He exclaimed: “My children, do not weep so much; it

happened long ago, and even perhaps is not quite true.”

However, the Vatican is the last place in the world to exercise your

critical faculties; you are so deeply absorbed in seeing, that you have no

time to think. So on I went, from aisle to aisle, from niche to niche,

from chapel to chapel, looking, staring, and admiring, till of a sudden my

eyes were struck by a large statue, on which the words, “Thou shalt have

no other God before me,” are engraved. There I stood before a question of

exegesis, where one is permitted to use his right senses without any

regard to the æsthetic side. Yet not all the manifold expositions of the

Decalogue, nor all the talk about the subjective‐objective, the absolute

and the real, with which metaphysicians have tried to confuse the notion

of the Unity of God, will reconcile one to the meaning which Mediæval Art

has impressed upon the Ten Commandments. The truth has to be sought

elsewhere, and thus my thoughts were turned to the synagogue, and thither

I went.

The day was already drawing to its close, and, by a marvellous

coincidence, I arrived at the synagogue just as the congregation was

intoning the words: “The Lord is one, and His name is one to His renown

and glory.” Here was sound, simple exegesis, though sadly lacking in the

illustrative matter in which the Vatican is so rich. But what need was

there of any real or artificial “aid to the believer,” in the presence of

such a living faith, as enabled this little community to maintain its

protesting position in the teeth of the mistress of the world! And this

even at a time, when it only required a hint from the successors of the

old Roman Emperors to make the whole world renounce its right of thinking

and judging, and, were we to believe Herr Janssen, even to feel perfectly

happy in this torpor.

But, by the way, are our own times much better? As I write these lines

(October 1893) I hear that a Bill has been brought into the German Diet,

asking that the Talmud should be submitted to a Commission (which _en

passant_, has been sitting in unbroken session in that country since the

days of Pfefferkorn in the fifteenth century) with the purpose of

examining its contents, while in the Vatican the very pupils of Loyola are

offering every convenience and comfort to the student who should care to

devote his time to Rabbinic literature. Does not the work of a great

number of our poets, historians, theologians, and so‐called seers in this

blessed century of ours, in many respects prove but a strained effort to

destroy the few humanitarian principles which were established a few

generations ago, as well as to deify every brutal warrior who was

successful in his day? Again, is the national idea so much sublimer, so

much grander, than that of a universal religion, that we would willingly

permit the former to employ the means which have been denied to the latter

as inhuman and barbarous? Every age has its own idolatry, and the eternal

wandering Jew will always be the chosen victim of the Moloch in fashion.

Let us, however, return to the synagogue, which withstood many a cruelty,

both ancient and modern. The place where the synagogue stands is near the

Ghetto, now called Piazza di Scuola. It is, besides a few other communal

houses, the only building left there,—all those narrow, dirty, and

typhoid‐breeding streets which formed the old Ghetto having been

demolished by a sage and humane government, which by this action wiped out

the last stain from its history. There, on this vast blank is the

synagogue, a comparatively small, insignificant building, laden with heavy

age and looking down on her children whom she has been nursing, consoling,

and protecting for centuries, but who, now grown old, have forsaken her

and scattered to all the ends of the city. Of all her former acquaintances

there appears to be left only father Tiber, who would seem to be murmuring

to her many an old tale of the times before she was called into existence.

And if he listened to the special prayers recited within her walls by the

deputies of the Jewish communities, when preparing themselves to go to the

court of the Pope, the Tiber heard many a sigh and cry, wrung out from the

heart of a Jewish captive who, preferring death to slavery even under the

masters of the world, found his last repose in its waters. But

insignificant as this synagogue appears, she proved the spiritual bulwark

against all the attacks of the time, and you admire her brave resistance

all the more when you look at that multitude of churches and cloisters in

the closest vicinity of the Ghetto, impressing you as so many

intrenchments, all directing their missiles and weapons against this

humble, defenceless building, threatening it with death and destruction.

One of these churches, probably founded by some Jewish convert, who gained

in it both salvation and a good living, bears on its gates in Hebrew

letters the inscription: “I have spread out my hands all the day unto a

rebellious people, which walketh in the way that was not good, after their

own thoughts. A people that provoketh me to anger continually to my face”

(Isaiah lxv. 2, 3). Menace is followed by persuasion, the cited verses

being accompanied by the Latin words: “Indulgentia plenaria quotodiana

perpetua pro vivis et defunctis.” Theologians who like to quarrel most

about things they can know least, have for ages discussed the question,

whether prayers for the dead are of any use; here the matter is decided by

a simple advertisement. It is not to be denied that one would enjoy the

fortunes accumulated by one’s late sinner of an uncle all the better for

being sure that a few pennyworths of prayer enable the legatee to make

one’s benefactor in Hades comfortable and happy.

The thought is very consoling indeed, and it is not to be wondered at that

the Roman synagogue could not entirely withstand its temptations, and

introduced into the offering‐blessing after one is called up to the Torah,

the words: “To the advancing of the soul of the departed.” Of course much

of this tendency may be attributed to the Ford Jabbok,(266) which was and

is still very popular in that country; but the fact that the author of

this Jewish “Book of the Dead” was an Italian (from Modena), shows clearly

that there was some Catholic influence at work, from which even the

fellow‐countrymen of Azariah de Rossi and Judah Messer Leon could not

entirely emancipate themselves.

I ought to have spoken of Roman synagogues, since the building in the

Ghetto to which I have been constantly alluding comprises four prayer‐

houses devoted to Spanish and Italian rites. It says much for Roman

Judaism, that they did not consider ritual differences of such importance

as to prevent them from forming one community for all charitable and

congregational purposes. In Verona and in Modena some congregations even

retained the German rite, which their ancestors who immigrated from the

Rhine provinces brought with them, whilst they accepted the Spanish

pronunciation. I wish that the Anglo‐Jewish community could see their way

to imitate their example. Not that I think for a moment that the Spanish

pronunciation is more correct than the German. Each system has its own

mistakes and corruptions; and it is more than probable that the prophet

Isaiah, or even the author of Ecclesiastes, would be as little able to

follow the prayers in Bevis Marks as in Duke’s Place. But since the non‐

Jewish scientific world has, though only by pure accident, accepted the

Spanish way of reading the Hebrew, I should like to see this trifling

difference of _Ba_ruch over _Bu_ruch at last disappear, by pronouncing the

camets‐vowel _a_ instead of _o_, and accepting similar little changes,

which are of no real importance to us.

The inside of these synagogues is even more simple than their outside. I

was told that the synagogue which was burned down last winter, and which

also formed a part of this building, could boast of many fine decorations

and carvings, etc., but I could observe nothing of the kind in the

synagogues I had occasion to frequent. Nor is there much of natural

decorum in them, and they reconcile one perfectly to the worst of the

Small Synagogues elsewhere. I venture to think that in this respect, too,

we have to recognise Catholic influence. It was, I think, one of the

leaders in the Oxford Movement who expressed his delight at seeing in

Italy a woman poorly‐dressed coming into the church, who, after putting

down the basket from her back, kneels before one of the many altars and

says her prayers. A good deal of this familiarity in the place of worship

may also be noticed in the Roman synagogues, where I have seen a woman

come into the partition for men, notwithstanding their having a separate

gallery, without bonnet or hat on her head, and with an infant in her

arms, and listen there to the prayers, till she walked home with her

husband. The other people were also very restless, coming and going often,

whilst, as soon as the reading of the Law was over, the greater part of

the worshippers left the synagogue. It was not a very delightful sight. A

minus of decorum does not always mean a plus of devotion; just as little

as a maximum of respectability and stiffness are to be taken as signs of

true piety.

It is not uninteresting to notice that the Roman synagogue, in spite of

its old traditions, did not entirely shut itself against modern reforms.

Among them there is that of “calling up the people to the Torah” by the

simple formula, “Let the Priest” (or “the Levite”) “step forth,”(267) and

so on, not mentioning either names or titles, which I should like to

recommend most strongly to our congregations. I hope that no man will

suspect me of such heresy as that of questioning the wisdom of the

Synagogue Regulations. But I am inclined to think that the business of

conferring the degrees of _Rabbi_, “Associate” or “Master,” does not

exactly fall within the sphere of activity of the Wardens. The matter

could only be decided by a proper Board of examination. As the Council is

not provided with such a Board, nor is every aspirant to this honour

prepared to undergo the examination required, the wisest course would be

to give up titles altogether, calling up all people alike in the way

indicated.

The robes the ministers wear (somewhat similar to those of the Greek

clergy), are probably also an innovation of modern date,—the old orthodox

Rabbis looking at any special vestment for the Preacher or Reader with the

same feeling of disgust which the old Puritans entertained for surplice or

mitre. But the principle of “The Beauty of Holiness” proved too strong for

resistance, and it was only a pardonable vanity when the reformers applied

it to their own persons; “Vanity of vanities,” saith the preacher, so

often, that he gets rather to like it. This vanity is greatly redeemed by

the fact that the preacher does not grudge his uniform to his humbler

brother, the beadle, who is in most cases to be distinguished from the

officiating ministry only by the brass‐plate on his breast, on which the

word “Servant” is engraved. Considering the great confusion arising from

the meaningless “Reverend” and the universal white neck‐tie, such a label,

indicating the proper office of the bearer, might, perhaps, prove as

useful among the English Jews as it is among the Jews of Rome.

It was with a pupil of the Rabbinical College, in company with his

friends, that I took my first walk through ancient Rome. I felt attracted

to him by his striking face of that peculiar fine Jewish type, which is

more common among the Jews in the East than among us. And when he was

reading the lesson from the Prophets in the synagogue, where I made his

acquaintance, he reminded me of that Jewish boy with bright eyes, black

curls, and features strikingly beautiful walking as a captive from

Jerusalem through the streets of Rome some seventeen centuries ago, whose

proficiency in the words of Isaiah caused his redemption. It would be an

exaggeration to say that my companion’s remarks were very instructive from

an artistic point of view. Being born and bred in Rome, he passed with

utter indifference many objects which we are bidden to admire, whilst at

others he actually shouted out “Image,” or made some other prosaic remark.

But in a country where one is determined to play the heathen for so many

weeks, to worship superannuated deities, to get into raptures at every

reminiscence of superseded and vanishing religions, and to be delighted at

the sights of “greasy saints and martyrs hairy,” there can be no great

harm in being called back to one’s true nature.

The feelings crowding upon one, when entering that part of the ancient

city which probably was in the mind of the Rabbis when they spoke of

“Guilty Rome,” are of a conflicting nature. Every stone and every brick

there saw the humiliation of Israel, in every theatre and every circus the

Jew served as a comic figure, and was held up to ridicule, whilst there

was, perhaps, hardly a single lane or gate through which those who

resented the yoke of the “anti‐Semites of Antiquity” did not pass, in

order to “be butchered to make a Roman holiday.” What concerns a Jew most

in this perished world of ruins, and at the same time causes him the

deepest grief, is the triumphal arch of Titus, “commemorating the defeat

of the Jews, and dedicated to him by his successor, Domitian.” Enough has

been said and written about it both by antiquarians and theologians, the

former admiring the workmanship of the reliefs, the latter perceiving in

it a proof of the fulfilment of the well‐known passages in the New

Testament about the destruction of the Temple, which came to pass in spite

of the efforts made by Titus to save it. Those who have read Bernay’s

essay on the “Chronik des Sulpicius Severus” know that the behaviour of

“the delight of the human species” on that occasion is rather open to

doubt, and it is more probable that, instead of trying to rescue it, he

commanded that it should be set on fire. Josephus, who witnessed the shame

of his compatriots and co‐religionists, has left us a full account of the

triumphal procession. Only a flunkey like Josephus could maintain that

calm indifference with which he describes the events of the “bitter day,”

the perusal of which makes one’s blood boil. His description fairly agrees

with the famous relief on the arch, showing that part of the procession in

which the table with the shewbread, the candlestick with the seven lamps,

and the golden trumpets figure as the chief objects. The only thing which

we miss is the “Law of the Jews,” which, according to Josephus, was

carried in the triumph as “the last of all the spoils.” Was it only an

oversight of the artist, or had he no place for it, or is it Josephus who

committed the error, mistaking some other object for the Scroll of the

Law? I dearly hope that this last was the case, and that Heine was under

the impulse of a true and real and poetic inspiration when he wrote

(speaking of the Holy Scripture to which he owed his conversion): “The

Jews, who appreciate the value of precious things, knew right well what

they did when, at the burning of the second temple they left to their fate

the golden and silver implements of sacrifice, the candlesticks and lamps,

even the breastplate of the High Priest adorned with great jewels, but

saved the Bible. This was the real treasure of the temple, and, thanks be

to God! it was not left a prey to the flames, nor to the fury of Titus

Vespasian, the wretch, who, as the Rabbi tells us, met with so dreadful a

death.”

However, there were others who brought the glad tidings of the Old

Testament to Rome long before there existed a New one. And this is, on the

other side, what makes Rome a sort of Terra Sancta even to the Jew. It is

true that we have not to look for the footprints of the prophets, for whom

even tradition never claimed “the gift of missionary‐travelling.” But

might not the ground there have received a sort of consecration by the

fact that it was traversed by the ambassadors of Judas Maccabæus (about

161 B.C.) “to make a league of amity and confederacy” with the Roman

Senate? Of the embassy of Simon the Maccabee (about 140 B.C.) there is

actual historical evidence that they began to propagate in Rome the Jewish

religion. Some seventy or eighty years later the Jews had already their

own quarter in Rome, with their own synagogues, which they were in the

habit of visiting, “most especially on the sacred Sabbath days, when they

publicly cultivate their national philosophy.” That many of the oldest

teachers of Israel, the Tannaim, went to Rome as deputies, and that one of

them (R. Mathia ben Chares) founded a school there early in the second

century, is also an authenticated fact. One would like to know what they

taught, and in what way they expounded their _national philosophy_. Most

of all one would like to know what were the spiritual means they employed

in their proselytising work, in which they were, according to the

testimony of history, so successful. Did they preach in the streets? Or

did they hold public controversies? Or did they even send out Epistles

which, in form at least, served as a model to apostles of another creed?

How many a problem would be solved; how many a miracle would disappear;

how many a book would become superfluous, if we could obtain certainty

about these points! The Talmud tells us little, almost nothing, about

these important things, whilst we get from the Roman writers only sneers

and raillery. To these respectable Romans the Jews were only a mob of

unlettered atheists. Indeed, to a good orthodox heathen, a religion

without images and statues, with a God without a pedigree and without a

theogony, was an impossible thing. Those poor metaphysicians!

However, why dwell so long on a past world? A famous Rabbi once exclaimed:

“If a man would ask thee, ‘Where is thy God?’ answer him: ‘In the great

city of Rome.’ ” The underlying idea was the mystical notion that wherever

Israel had to migrate, they were accompanied by the Divine presence. And

Rome was, in the times of the Rabbis, the point to which the streams of

Jewish migration from the Holy Land chiefly converged. But now, instead of

to Rome, might we not point to London and New York as centres of Jewish

migrations?

INDEX

This Index contains the most important names of persons, titles of books,

technical terms and Hebrew words occurring in the text. In the notes to

the text, the Hebrew words are for the most part given also in Hebrew

characters.

Abarbanel, Isaac, 173, 174

Abaye, 311

_Ab Beth Din_, 84

Abba Mari b. Moses, 165, 179

Abba Tachnah, the Chassid, 221

Abraham, Baalshem’s father‐in‐law, 7

Abraham, son of Elijah Wilna, 88

Abraham of Bedres, 262

Abraham Abulaphia, 262

Abraham Ibn Daud, 162

Abraham Ibn Ezra, 50, 52, 64, 71, 210, 314

Abraham b. Shem—Tob Bibago, 172, 173

Abtalyon, 186

Abuha, 311

Acha, 310

_Acher_, 292

_Adam, Primal_, 239

_Agadah_, pl. _Agadoth_, 64, 105, 183, 197

_Agadic_, 110, 156, 157, 193, 262, 279

_Ages of Man_, 295

Akabyah b. Mahalaleel, 305

Akiba, 70, 84, 130, 188, 190, 194, 220, 227, 228, 234

_Almemor_, 302

Ammi, 214, 217, 226, 231

_Amora_, pl. _Amoraim_, 17, 84, 195

Amram Gaon, 293

Anna of Kaidon, wife of Elijah Wilna, 82

Anselm, St., of Canterbury, 79

Antigonos of Socho, 229

Anti‐Maimonists, 133

Aristotle, 79, 167

Aryeh Leb, son of Elijah Wilna, 88

_Ascension of Elijah_, 75

Asher b. Jechiel, 210

Assideans, 64

_Ayil Meshulash_, 81

Azariah de Rossi, 66, 71, 105, 333

_Aziluth_, 117

Azulai, 277

_Baalshem_, Israel, 3‐12, 14‐35, 73

Bachrach, Ch. J., 325

_Bachur_, pl. _Bachurim_, 95, 97

Bachya, 131

_Baraitha_, 271

_Baruch Sheamar_, 311

Bashazi, 161

_Bath‐Kol_, 190

Beer of Mizriez, 11, 37

Beer, Peter, 66

Ben Azzai, 130, 216, 319

Benjamin of Tudela, 329

Ben‐Jacob, 259

Ben Sira, 297

Ben Zoma, 130

_Bereshith_, 127

_Berith Milah_, 288, 292, 293

Berliner, A., 327

Bernays, Isaak, 337

_Beth Din_, 191‐193

_Beth Hammidrash_, 7, 16, 84, 139

_Beth Talmud_, 210

_Biccurim_, 58

Bloch, Samson, 51

Bodek, A., 51

_Book of Brightness_ (_see_ Zohar)

_Book of the Pious_, 295, 322

_Book of Victory_, 167

_Book of Weight_, 133

Boswell, 142, 197

Buckle, 96

_Burbot_, 138

Buzagli, the Cabbalist, 310

Cabbalah, Cabbalists, 99, 128, 129, 133, 210, 283, 315

_Cabod_, 120, 121

Caraites, 48, 160, 161, 207, 208

Casaubon, Isaac, 259

_Chagigah_, 77

_Chakhamim_, 57

_Chambers_, the, 208

Chanina b. Dossa, 217

_Chanukah_, 138

_Chapters of R. Eliezer the Great_, 68, 69, 316

Chasdai Ibn Crescas, 167‐173, 180

_Chassidim_, Chassid, Chassidic, Chassidism, 1‐4, 11, 12, 14‐16, 21, 22,

25‐27, 30, 33, 35‐41, 43‐45, 53, 73, 90, 298

Studies in Judaism, First Series · 第 24 / 26 段