After several weeks of genial quiet and enjoyment in the somewhat
dilapidated, although still stately old settlement of Macao,--whose
soft and balmy summer atmosphere first taught us to understand and
take pleasure in the fascinating _dolce far niente_ of the South,--we
proceeded to Hong Kong, and while there, as the guests of our friend,
Mr. P----, of the house of Olyphant & Co., were the recipients of that
lordly and charming hospitality which one meets with among most of the
polished and cultivated foreign residents in China.
The colony of Hong Kong is not favorably situated to receive the full
influences of the cool southwest monsoon of the summer months, and the
extremely warm weather which prevailed at this time produced the most
intense tropical languor. After a brief stay, however, the 23d of July
found us on board the English coasting steamer _Undine_, _in transitu_
to our new home in Swatow, at which place we arrived the next day.
Swatow--which is one of the five ports that a few years ago were thrown
open by treaties to foreign trade--is situated on the river Han,[31]
which is navigable for vessels of a light draft for some distance.
There is also a spacious harbor at its mouth, with sufficient water to
float ships of large tonnage. The river has several branches, which
intersect a populous and fertile region of country, throughout which
are scattered villages and large cities, as well as walled towns. In
fact, it is said that no district in China presents greater natural
advantages for agriculture and commerce than that in the neighborhood
of this port.
Double Island--which is the residence of foreigners--is situated a
little off the mouth of the river, being about a mile distant from the
main land, and five miles from the native town of Swatow. The area of
land upon this island is small, a brisk walker being able to accomplish
its entire circuit in half an hour without inconvenience. Standing high
out of the water, it has two conspicuous and verdant hills, situated,
the one at the northern and the other at its southern extremity. These
hills overlook the two entrances to the harbor, and upon one of them
are still to be seen the ruins of a native fort which once guarded
the chief passage. The settlement, which faces the harbor, is built
in the valley between; and most of it is so situated under the lee
of the high ground as to be sheltered from the worst effects of the
terrible typhoons which occasionally visit this region. The climate is
very salubrious, and the island is considered one of the most healthy
places for Europeans on the coast. Situated quite out into the sea,
the inhabitants enjoy the cooling influence of the southwest monsoon
through the summer, at which time invalids visiting the place receive
much benefit from the pure and bracing sea-air. In fact, we were
informed that at one time there had been some talk of establishing upon
the island a _sanatarium_ for invalids, and that the scheme was favored
by one of the best medical men in Hong Kong.
Notwithstanding the fine sea-air at this place, the heat of the summer,
which is of long continuance, is very exhausting to all foreigners; and
here--as everywhere else in Southern China--the more temperate October
days are welcomed with pleasure. The very warm weather, however, does
not commence quite as early in the season as it does at Canton and
Whampoa; but as we were at the South until midsummer, we did not have
the mercury below eighty degrees from April until the 8th of October,
and for by far the greater portion of that time it was some degrees
higher.
There being no low lands nor rice-fields upon Double Island,
mosquitoes--which are the greatest of all plagues in the south of
China--are not numerous. It is only necessary, however, to live in
Canton or Macao for a short time, in order fully to appreciate the
blessing of being freed from the venomous assaults of this insect.
While living upon the water at Whampoa we were seldom troubled with
them, but when at Canton, if we chanced to have our beds shielded by
defective mosquito-curtains, the night was fearfully woful, and the
noise of their shrill trumpets, together with their stinging attacks,
not only dispelled sleep, but destroyed all comfort and repose. The
species of this insect met there is _sui generis_, and being striped on
the back something like a tiger, has been by some very appropriately
called the “tiger mosquito.” The drapery of my sleeping-room at Macao
was so infested with these hatefully irritating creatures that the
moment I disturbed any part of it they swarmed forth in great numbers.
Indeed, even during the day, we frequently suffered such depredations
from these bloodthirsty tormentors, that, with the mercury ranging
as high as eighty or ninety degrees, it was exceedingly difficult to
sit quietly or patiently at any employment. We therefore, on reaching
Double Island, felicitated ourselves upon being freed from this, the
most intolerably keen annoyance that we met with while living in the
East. Even the frightful centipede is not so much to be dreaded, for he
always seeks the darkness, and instinctively shuns the presence of man.
The name of this island--which was conferred upon it by Europeans--is
derived from its shape, which appears double when seen from the east
or west. It has also three very significant Chinese names: viz.,
_Fung-shan_, _Fang-ke-shan_, and _Ma-seu_, or _Ma-soo_. We are indebted
to a member of the English Consulate at Swatow--who understands the
Chinese language--for the following interesting explanation of these
names. “_Fung-shan_,” he writes, “may be translated Phœnix Island,--it
being understood that the imaginary supernatural bird of the Chinese,
which we call the ‘Phœnix,’ does not correspond with the Phœnix of
western legends. The island gets this name from its shape;--the
light-house promontory on the east representing the head of the bird,
and the main part of the island stretching north and south, the
outspread wings. The Chinese, with their geomantic notions, attaching
a real importance to this, believe that the light-house erected on
the head of the Phœnix has brought bad fortune to the port, in the
shape of typhoons[32] and divers other calamities. The word _shan_,
in _Fung-shan_, may be translated island. Its proper meaning, however,
is hill, or mountain, although it often occurs in the names of hilly
islands.
“_Ma-seu_, or _Ma-soo_, is the most common name among the Chinese, and
is not unknown among foreigners. It means the island of Ma-tsoo, the
name of a Buddhist goddess, or saint, who has a temple here, which at
times is much resorted to. She is a sort of sailors’ goddess, much
worshipped by them and others, especially in the provinces of Fuh-kien
and Kwang-tung. She was a native, it is said, of Chin-chew, or that
neighborhood, in Fuh-kien,--and is sometimes called the ‘Holy Mother,’
‘Queen of Heaven,’ but is not to be confounded with the Goddess of
Mercy, _Kwan-yin_, whose worship is much more widely diffused all over
China, and beyond it, and whose rank is considered higher.
“_Fang-ke-shan_ may be translated--‘the island where fowls are let go.’
I am told that some time ago, when there were no residents here but the
people of the temple, live fowls used to be presented at the temple of
Ma-tsoo, and then let go on the island, and that rice was given by the
junk-people for the food of the fowls. It is also said that people did
not dare to steal and eat them, and that any one who did so would get
the stomach-ache.”
The Buddhist temples in China are--as we have already seen--placed
in the most picturesque situations, and frequently command views of
the most charming scenery. This is also the case with the small but
elaborately ornamented temple of Ma-tsoo, which is shaded with huge old
banians, and located in one of the pleasantest spots on the island.
A festival in honor of this goddess--which lasts five days--is held
in September of each year, and is attended by crowds of people, who
at that time flock to the island from the villages and cities on the
main-land, in order to make offerings to their favorite deity. It is
the custom of these people to blend various kinds of amusements with
their devotions, which, to one so unfortunate as to be within hearing
distance, are chiefly characterized by a most heathenish racket. At
all of these festivals itinerant theatricals constitute a favorite
source of amusement; and at Double Island the temporary theatre--which
is always constructed of bamboo-poles and covered with matting--was
frequently erected disagreeably near to some of the foreign residences.
In September, 1862, one was set up so near our house, that, with the
intense heat of the season and the noise of the performers, together
with the clangor of their musical (?) instruments, we nearly went mad.
The performances--which were continued every evening until an hour or
two after twelve o’clock--“made night hideous.” The actors were arrayed
in rich satin robes, elaborately embroidered, and, judging from the sea
of upturned faces[33] that surrounded the place, the plays must have
deeply interested the spectators.
Previous to 1860 there were but very few foreigners living at Swatow.
During that year, however, a Mission station, under the auspices of the
American Baptist Board, was established at Double Island by the Rev.
Mr. Johnson. At that time there were no religious services held on the
island, and the natives knew nothing of the Christian religion, or of
any of its observances. Under these discouraging circumstances,--which
might well-nigh have appalled the most hopeful,--Mr. Johnson purchased
a billiard-room,--which was the only place that could then be procured
for a chapel,--and at once commenced holding Divine service on Sunday
evenings for the benefit of the foreign community. Since that time
the building has been converted into a neat little chapel, which is
appropriately fitted up, and generally well attended by persons who
are grateful for its privileges. Such missionaries as Mr. and Mrs.
Johnson are a blessing to all classes of people among whom they may
be placed; and one on the spot can readily see in how many different
ways the influence and teachings of this mission have tended to improve
the natives, as well as to make the place more home-like to Europeans.
While I remained at the island Mr. Johnson’s house was the favorite
gathering place of all the foreigners in the settlement; and the ladies
looked to Mrs. Johnson for advice and aid in every emergency.
The house in which we were to live not being ready for occupation until
a fortnight after our arrival at Double Island, and during that time
being members of Mr. Johnson’s family, I saw something of the workings
of the mission, and became much interested in Mrs. Johnson’s school
of Chinese girls. Mr. Johnson was missionary at Hong Kong for several
years previous to establishing himself at Swatow, and some of the girls
composing Mrs. Johnson’s school while there, being originally from the
neighborhood of Double Island, accompanied them on their removal to
that place. Some of those who early became Christians have now attained
to womanhood, and, still retaining the integrity of their religious
profession, are not only leading exemplary lives, but are also making
themselves useful to their people. One of them is now the chief native
assistant in Mrs. Johnson’s school. When we left Swatow this school
numbered eleven boarding pupils, besides five or six day scholars; and
a letter received from Mrs. Johnson, since my return to the United
States, informs me that six of these pupils have recently become
Christians. From what we learned of the influence of this school, not
only upon the girls, but also upon the families with which they were
connected, we were more than ever convinced that a practical Christian
education given to the young, and particularly to the daughters,
who, among the Chinese, are rarely taught to read, must in time
contribute much towards Christianizing the people. This school--with
which I became more familiar than with any other in China--is said
to be managed in a wise and very judicious manner. Like that of Mrs.
Bonny’s at Canton, the girls are frequently _protegés_ of benevolent
and religious women in the United States. We doubt much whether any
more wisely appropriated foreign charity, than that extended to these
schools, can be found; and in speaking of Mrs. Johnson’s, we would wish
to do so in such a manner as to induce our countrywomen of the Baptist
churches at home--as well as of other denominations of Protestant
Christians, whose enlarged benevolence inclines them to do good
whenever an opportunity offers--to become its patrons.
Some of the Chinese youth who have become Christians after coming
under the instruction of Mr. Johnson, have, on their refusing to join
in the idolatrous ancestral worship of the country, been very cruelly
treated by their friends. One of these--a young shopkeeper--was sadly
persecuted by his parents, as well as by his brothers and sisters;
who not only beat him, but would give him no food, nor suffer him to
enter the house. This young man became a Christian after attending,
from motives of curiosity, the services at the Mission Chapel which Mr.
Johnson established at _Tat-hau-po_,--a place on the main-land about
five miles from Double Island. Finally his business was entirely broken
up, and in order to support himself he peddled rice, eggs, and fruit.
We often procured our supplies of these articles of him, and long
before being made acquainted with his history had observed his meek and
chastened appearance, as well as his quiet and gentle demeanor. Older
persons, also, on forsaking their idolatry, have suffered very bitter
persecution. One of this class,--who is a member of the Mission Church
at _Tat-hau-po_,--previous to his conversion, kept a shop for selling
small idols, incense-sticks and incense-paper. This man, after coming
under the illuminating and sanctifying influence of the Gospel, decided
to abandon a business that was so entirely supported by idol-worship,
and therefore immediately closed his shop. This course did not meet
with the approbation of his wife or children, none of whom would
associate with him, and he was thrust from his home as an outcast.
Just before war broke out between China and the Allies, As-sune, an
old native teacher in the employ of Mr. Johnson, being a Christian,
suffered imprisonment in the city of _Chau-chau-fu_, which is situated
forty miles up the river from Swatow. When taken before the Mandarins,
this man refused to kneel, saying that “he kneeled to none but Jesus.”
Then, when attempting to preach the Gospel to them by relating the
history of our Saviour, and telling them of his death upon the cross,
an effort was made to silence him, which being unsuccessful, he was
severely beaten on the cheek with the heavy shoe of a Chinaman, until
his face was badly cut and two of his teeth were knocked out.
The native Christians under the watch and care of the mission, always
attend the communion services held at Double Island, and have the
advantage of profiting by the valuable teachings of Mr. Johnson
several times during the year. These services commence on Friday, and
continue until Sunday evening; and the communicants, coming from the
main-land, frequently travel a distance of forty or fifty miles to
be present. In summer the boats of these people arrive at the island
in the morning, and our house being situated near the landing-place,
we watched with interest for the arrival of three aged Christians,
who, fifteen or twenty years ago, while living in Siam for business
purposes, had, through the faithfulness of some Baptist missionaries,
been converted to Christianity. The countenances of these men--who
were over sixty years of age--were spiritual to a degree that reminded
us of the old man given in the last picture of Cole’s paintings of
the “Voyage of Life.” One rarely meets with such faces, nor with more
happy and devoted Christians. We learned from Mr. Johnson that these
men, with a few other native converts in humble life, were doing much
good among the people where they lived; and that it was not an uncommon
thing for persons who had become Christians through the influence of
their teachings and example, to come to him for the purpose of further
instruction, and to be admitted into his church by baptism. One of
the old men mentioned cultivated a small piece of ground, and selling
whatever it yielded, appropriated the avails of it to printing parts
of the Bible, and religious tracts, which he distributed among his
countrymen. This little plot of ground he called “Christ’s Garden.”
The London Missionary Society also had two missionary clergymen
stationed in towns forty or fifty miles from Swatow. These men--who
were devoted to their work,--occasionally visited the island; and
although living where there were no foreign residents, their isolation
from the world made them none the less cheerful, nor earnest in doing
good.
The different dialects prevailing in every new district one visits in
China, are no less noticeable than the difference which is observed in
the appearances of the people. This first attracted our attention on
reaching Swatow, where we thought the people more hardy looking, as
well as rougher, than the same class of natives seen farther south. In
fact, the natives of this district have had the reputation of being
a savage and quarrelsome people; and a few years ago it was thought
to be as much as a foreigner’s life was worth to venture living in
their vicinity. The difficulty, however, was greatly owing to their
inefficient rulers, together with the dreadful feuds which existed
between the inhabitants of different villages. This state of things
increased until the people of some of the villages could not pursue
any honest employment, however much they might desire to do so. They
were often attacked when at work in their fields; and if the crops were
left unmolested until ripe, they were sure to be harvested by bands
of plunderers. A number of large fishing villages were prominent in
creating the anarchy and suffering that finally prevailed, and, being
located near the coast, were able to make successful depredations
upon the commerce between the sea and the interior, until they nearly
destroyed it. By reason of this, foreign vessels, being able to resist
the marauders, found lucrative employment at Swatow long before the
port was opened by treaty to foreign trade. In consequence of this
deplorable state of things, the people were finally reduced to the
most abject poverty; and starvation being the only alternative to
emigration, Swatow speedily became the centre of the Coolie traffic. At
first, the trade being confined to Singapore and Siam, was not marked
by those horrors which characterized it after it fell into the hands of
the Europeans.
This wicked traffic, like the African slave-trade, resulted in
the natives kidnapping one another; and it was the custom of the
people of different villages to make raids,--the stronger upon
the weaker,--simply for the purpose of procuring men to sell as
Coolies to the Europeans. These unfortunate creatures were put into
receiving-ships lying in the harbor, and being poorly cared for, as
well as placed in very crowded and close quarters, they died in great
numbers before the vessels were ready to leave port.
Near a portion of the sea-beach which formed a part of our favorite
walk on Double Island, there were two large mounds where many of these
Coolies were buried. The sand with which they were originally covered
had in some places been washed away by the rains, and occasionally
we noticed the bones of an arm or a leg protruding from some part of
the elevation. It required only one sad look at these huge graves
to convince us that the Asiatic, when once within the grasp of the
money-loving and rapacious European, meets with the same fate as the
poor African. We observed the _Ipomea maritima_--a beautiful creeper,
which is found trailing in great luxuriance over the sandy beaches
of the China sea--growing near these tumuli, and partly covering the
surface of one of them with its rich foliage and flowers.
It is stated that during the worst stage of the Coolie traffic the
people of the district were demoralized to such a degree that they so
far violated all Chinese ideas of propriety as to sell their women,
who were sent in large numbers to Singapore and Siam, and that some
were also exported to Cuba. The prices received for them ranged from
fifteen to thirty dollars, and at that time they constituted a regular
article of merchandise to Singapore and Bankok. With the legalization
of foreign trade at the port of Swatow, this shocking condition of
things underwent a change, and the cruelty attending the Coolie traffic
ceased. This being followed by a great increase in trade, and a
corresponding increase in revenue, induced both the Government and the
people to interpose with a strong hand and put a stop to the enormity.
Nothing is now heard of the Coolie trade, nor of the suffering that
first caused it; in fact, so few can now be induced even to emigrate
that the establishment of the British Emigration Company--which is
situated on the Otow shore upon the main-land, and opposite Double
Island--was abandoned during the summer I was there, and the agents
either left the port, or engaged in a different business.
If, in Southern China, there were accessible mountain regions, where,
as in India, sanatariums could be established for the invalided,
doubtless by resorting to such places for a few months,--while
undergoing the process of acclimation,--foreigners would be enabled to
remain in the country with some degree of comfort and safety, for a
much longer time than they now do. As the interior of China becomes
more and more occupied by Europeans, such places will probably be
found; but until then, foreigners, when seriously affected by the
climate, must seek a change in visiting the more salubrious coasts of
Japan, or by returning home. During the summer months I was gradually
prostrated by ill-health; and in September,--notwithstanding my
agreeable life in China, and the lively interest which I had taken
in regard to the country and its singular people,--I was obliged to
prepare for returning home.
FOOTNOTES:
[31] Called, also, by foreigners, the Swatow River.
[32] Some of the most fearful typhoons ever experienced in China have
visited Swatow since this light-house was built. When I was at Swatow,
it had, however, fallen into disuse; and, from recent letters received,
I learn that it has finally been pulled down by the natives.
[33] The front of the theatre is entirely open, and is built high, so
that the performance is in the second story, while the spectators stand
in crowds outside.