Mr. Johnson had been for some time anxious to send his only son, Master
Charlie,--a lad in his fifteenth year,--home to be educated; and it was
accordingly arranged that he should be my _compagnon du voyage_. Our
passage to New York was taken in the clipper ship _Jacob Bell_, which
was then loading at Fuh-chau,--a port situated about three hundred
miles north of Swatow. The _Jacob Bell_ was expected to be ready to put
to sea by the 15th or 20th of October; and Mr. W----, having received
leave of absence to go on to Fuh-chau, and to remain there until we
sailed, our preparations were soon made, and on the 10th of that month,
bidding adieu, with many regrets, to the kind friends we had met at the
island, and once more embarking on board the English steamer _Undine_,
we were soon sailing up the coast, _en route_ to Fuh-chau.
Although steaming against a northeast monsoon, we arrived at Amoy[34]
the next day; and the vessel remaining there three days, not only
enjoyed a quiet and church-going Sunday, but, as far as health would
permit, were able to see something of the place. Some of the small
islands, which form the boundary of the bay seaward, are surmounted
with pagodas and temples; which, together with the high hills and
verdant country in the background of the city of Amoy, renders an
approach to the place from the sea charmingly picturesque.
The town is built on a large island, called _Hiamun_, or island of
Amoy, which according to Dr. Williams, is forty miles in circumference.
The same author also states the circumference of the city and its
suburbs to be about eight miles, containing a population of 300,000,
while that of the island is estimated at 100,000 more. Most of the
foreign residents live on the lovely island of _Ku-lang-su_, or the
“drum wave island,”[35] which lies in the harbor, directly opposite the
city. The house of Mr. Bradford--our consul--is on this island,--the
little avenue leading to it being bordered with beautiful palms.
On Sunday we attended the Mission Chapel, where the Rev. W. C. Burns--a
missionary of the English Presbyterian Mission--performed the religious
services. Mr. Burns--who always wears the Chinese costume--frequently
travels into the interior of the country, and visiting the cities
and villages, prepares the way for the permanent settlement of other
missionaries. He has been several years engaged in his heaven-directed
work,--having assumed the native dress at the outset, in order as
much as possible to go unobserved among the people. In this garb he
is able to enter new places quite unmolested, and easily gains the
attention of the multitudes which throng the streets of all Chinese
towns. He labored at one time in the district of Swatow, and was
imprisoned for Christ’s sake at the city of Chau-chau-fu, at the time
that As-sune,--Mr. Johnson’s old teacher--suffered for his Divine
Master. From recent information I learn that, in the region about
Amoy, the labors of Mr. Burns, in connection with the efforts of other
missionaries, have been greatly blessed, and that many of the people
have embraced Christianity. These native converts, however, have
suffered severe persecution; and their enemies, in order to entirely
root out Christianity, at one time threatened to drive them from
their homes and property. The missionaries, however, appealed to Mr.
Pedder--the English Consul at Amoy--for their protection; which being
obtained, according to the treaties made at Tien-tsin, the persecutors
entered into a bond not to interfere with the native converts; and in a
few days the Mandarins issued a proclamation stating that the matter
was settled, and forbidding the people to molest any persons “who may
enter the holy religion of Jesus.” There is a very prosperous mission
of the American Dutch Reformed Board established at Amoy; and to the
Rev. Mr. Doty--who has for more than twenty years been one of its most
efficient and devoted missionaries--we were indebted for various kind
civilities. Mr. Doty had just recovered from a slight attack of fever;
and it was evident that his long residence within the tropics was
telling disastrously upon his health. We observed, however, that his
deep interest in the Mission cause made the thought of leaving his post
exceedingly painful.
Every city in China is noted for some article of manufacture peculiarly
its own; and the Amoy bracelet--formed of olive-stones exquisitely
carved, is a unique ornament of rare elegance. Beautiful brooches,
also, carved in pseudo sandal-wood,--which is of the color of the
olive-stone,--are made to match the bracelets. These ornaments are much
in request among the foreigners visiting Amoy, and are particularly
sought after by the English, who send them home, where they are said
to be highly prized. The Amoy pumelo,[36]--which is noted for being
superior to any grown elsewhere,--was in perfection at the time of our
visit. This delicious fruit gained but little in its change of name,
when introduced by Captain Shaddock into the West Indies.
Leaving Amoy on Monday afternoon, we met a very heavy monsoon sea
outside the harbor, and before nine o’clock had a stiff breeze, which
finally increased to a gale, and made our passage to Fuh-chau very
tempestuous. The next evening, however, we reached the three islands
called the White Dogs, which lie off the mouth of the river Min, and
anchored under the lee of one of them, where we remained until the
next morning, when at flood tide, crossing the bar at the mouth of the
river, we sailed up the latter to the Pagoda anchorage. Fuh-chau is
situated about forty miles from the mouth of the river; and the passage
being difficult, large vessels proceed no farther than this anchorage,
which is off an island of the same name.
Thirteen or fourteen miles from the mouth of the Min, the stream, for
the distance of nearly three miles, is less than half a mile wide, with
the water from twelve to twenty-five fathoms deep. The hills rise on
each side of this pass to the height of from fifteen hundred to two
thousand feet, and are defended by forts. Dr. Williams has well said
that “the scenery on this river, though of a different character, will
bear comparison with that of the Hudson for sublimity and beauty. The
hills are, however, much higher on the Min.” On sailing up the river
the scenery varies, although the bold and romantic hills give a certain
uniformity to the stream. These elevations are for the most part
covered with verdure, while those of a less rocky and rough surface are
terraced, and cultivated to their summits. At two points near which we
sailed we observed establishments for firing or curing tea, and some of
the furnaces were so situated as to be in full view. In the valleys,
and upon the low lands bordering the river above the narrow pass, we
observed small hamlets and extensive farms, furnished with buildings,
and orchards of fruit-trees, which, from our point of view, seemed more
like country life at the West than anything we saw in China.
On reaching the Pagoda anchorage,--which is at the termination of ship
navigation on the Min,--we learned that the _Jacob Bell_ would not
be ready to sail for two or three weeks, during which time, through
the kind hospitality of the house of Messrs. Olyphant & Co., we were
entertained at their residence in Fuh-chau.[37] With the exception
of Hong Kong and Macao, there are no hotels for the accommodation
of foreigners in any of the ports of Southern China. At every place,
however, strangers meet with the most agreeable hospitality from the
foreign residents, who throw open their houses and welcome them with
a delicate heartiness and kind sincerity which no grateful words can
overpraise. Their houses are spacious; and as every one travels with a
servant who takes charge of his apartment, the guest is quite as much
at home as he would be in his own house.
We made the sail from the anchorage to the city of Fuh-chau--which
is about twelve miles further up the river--in a pleasure-boat
belonging to the Imperial Customs. The boat, which was large, and
furnished with sails,--although differently constructed from the
Canton “matrimonials,”--had a cabin which was fitted up in a similar
manner. When leaving the anchorage we not only had the tide with us,
but the wind was also favorable, and until we had taken one or two
turns in the river,--which brought us under the lee of a considerable
mountain,--we sailed with very good speed. We then, however, came to
a dead calm; but after our eight stalwart Fuh-chauan boatmen had been
for a long time sitting quietly and waiting for a propitious wind,
we heard a low, wind-like whistle, and as it became louder discovered
that, sailor-like, they were whistling to call to their aid a friendly
breeze. How long this would have lasted I cannot say, as here Mr. W----
interposed, ordering the chief man to bid them take to their oars,
which they readily did; and while plying them sang in a nasal, and at
times in a harsh, guttural tone a monotonous refrain, to which they not
only kept time with their oars, but also with their feet. Landing at
the hong of Messrs. Olyphant & Co., we were soon comfortably domiciled
in their new and spacious mansion, which occupies a beautiful location,
upon a fine eminence, on the south bank of the river, where most of the
foreigners have their residences.
Fuh-chau-fu--or the Happy City--is built in a plain, through which
flows the river Min. This plain is entirely surrounded by mountains,
forming a vast amphitheatre of about twenty miles in diameter, in the
northern part of which the city is situated, while the river enters it
from the northwest, through a narrow pass said to be similar to the
one we have described as occurring fourteen miles from its mouth. The
land is of great fertility, and that part of it unoccupied by the city
is intersected by little canals, and covered with cultivated fields,
which are interspersed with hamlets, cottages, orchards, gardens, and
beautifully wooded knolls. The Rev. R. S. Maclay, in his “Life among
the Chinese,” says that “the city proper is surrounded by a substantial
wall built compactly of brick, and resting on a foundation of granite.
The wall is about twenty feet high and ten feet thick, surmounted by
a parapet five feet high, with bastions at regular intervals. The
gateways are of great size and strength, and so constructed that a
small force in charge of them could hold at bay almost any number of
attacking troops.”
The extensive southern suburb--called the suburb of _Nantai_--reaches
three miles from the south wall to the river, and stretches along both
sides of the stream. Along the southern shore, and particularly upon
the handsomely swelling hill beyond, this suburb is not as densely
built. It is, however, the centre of both the native and foreign trade;
and the business hongs of the foreigners are situated near the river,
while their residences occupy the eminence that overlooks them. From
this hill the south gate of the city--which is six miles distant--is
reached by a single street. The two bridges spanning the river are
substantially built of granite, and are connected by a little islet in
the river, which is called by the natives _chang-chau_.[38] The bridge
crossing the northern branch of the river--which is called “The Bridge
of Ten Thousand Ages”--is composed of twenty-six spans, each measuring
twenty feet, and is furnished with a stone balustrade. The piers and
spans are constructed of granite; and the floor of the bridge is also
formed of the same material. The bridge crossing that portion of the
stream, between the island and the southern bank of the river, is built
in the same manner, but comprises only nine arches. These remarkable
structures--over which crowds of people are continually passing and
repassing--are said to be at least a thousand years old.
Ill-health prevented my thoroughly “doing” the city; but being
guests for two days in the family of the Rev. Mr. Hartwell,--one of
the missionaries of the American Board, who was living within the
walls,--we visited a few places of interest, and learned more in regard
to the city proper than I could otherwise have done.
The street of six miles, which we traversed in going through the
suburb of Nantai, on our way to the south gate of the city, is lined
on both sides with shops and residences, and always crowded from morn
till night with a busy, jostling, and noisy moving mass of shopmen,
mechanics, hucksters, and the bearers of heavy burdens. We had up to
this time considered ourselves thoroughly acquainted with the power
and depth of the lungs of a Chinaman, and supposed that the deafening
vociferations and noisy cries, that we had heard in the streets of
Canton, could not be emulated; but after our brawny sedan-bearers
had threaded their way through the suburb of Nantai, and, entering
the city gate, were trotting briskly through North and South Street,
we cheerfully awarded the palm to the sturdy, rough, and noisy
Fuh-chauan. The increase of vile odors also, as compared with Canton,
was in the same ratio; while the people, as a whole, looked much
stouter,--or rather more brawny,--as well as rougher and poorer. At
different places along the street we observed establishments, furnished
with chairs and little tables, where people were drinking tea, and
refreshing themselves with food. These places--which reminded us of
the restaurants of the West--are called tea-pavilions. Very soon after
passing one of these places--which was not far from the south gate--we
were surprised at having our eyes greeted with the sight of a church,
which has been built at that central point by the American Methodist
Episcopal Mission. The edifice--which reminded us, in its exterior,
of some of the village churches at home--is built with a cupola, and
furnished with a bell. It is well located to attract the crowds of
people who, during the day, always throng that great thoroughfare, and,
at any hour it is only necessary to throw open the doors in order to
gather a congregation.
The principal street within the walled city--which is called _Nanka_,
that is, South Street--runs from the south gate nearly to the north,
and is therefore usually called by the Europeans North and South
Street. For a Chinese town, it is a wide and well-paved street, and in
it are located the finest shops in the city. This place had been open
to foreigners for so short a time that we were more of a curiosity,
while in Nanka Street, than in any spot that we visited while in China.
In fact, when entering some extensive china shops, we were so pressed
upon and closely pursued by the crowd on stepping out of our chairs
that we were obliged to rush through the front apartments of the shops
into the large warerooms beyond, in order to escape them. The gentlemen
and Master Charlie were in open chairs, and the latter was an object of
special interest. A foreign boy of fourteen years is rarely seen in the
streets of a Chinese city, and of course our young friend was a great
lion to the curious Fuh-chauans, who turned their heads and gazed after
him as long as he could be seen.
In Fuh-chau,--as in Canton,--the residences of the Mandarins, and other
persons of position and wealth, are in the western portion of the
town, and it is said that some of their establishments are arranged
and furnished in a style indicating refinement and good taste. The
city and its suburbs contain half a million of inhabitants, who are
a very energetic, persevering, and independent people, and are also
represented as being more or less refractory, and consequently not
over polite. Indeed they are much less courteous than the Cantonese;
and a foreigner from the south of China will quickly observe their
harsh, guttural dialect, as well as their independent bearing. The
boat-people are numerous, and the river--like all rivers near Chinese
cities--presents an animated picture. The boat-women have also a
fashion of wearing flowers in their hair; which, together with the
flower-pots that ornament nearly all the boats, give the scene a
peculiarly attractive aspect. The women, in fact, of all classes are
in the habit of dressing their heads with flowers; and however gray
the hair, or bald the head, or soiled and tattered the garments, these
beautiful ornaments, tastefully arranged in little bouquets, are seen
fastened with metal pins to the side, or near the top of the head. The
pins used are ornamental, and we observed some made of silver wire
that matched well with the hoop-rings of extraordinary circumference
which they wore in their ears. Many of these floral ornaments were
composed of china-asters of exquisite tints, which, in regard to the
contrast of colors, showed much fine taste in their arrangement. Not
unfrequently bouquets are worn on both sides of the head; and the
charming effect of these decorations, as viewed in the constantly
changing crowds which one encounters in the streets, must be seen in
order to be fully appreciated. No description--at least none that I can
give--is adequate to the subject. Natural flowers are much in favor
with these women, although many of them wear artificial ones; and for
the purpose of answering the constant demand which this fashion has
created, artificial flowers are extensively manufactured. Upon many of
these I observed butterflies of brilliant hues, which were represented
as having alighted to taste their sweets. Of course the flowers made
for the use of the ladies are much more elegant and expensive than
those used by the lower classes. The field-flowers, however,--which are
particularly designed for the latter,--are very beautiful.
There are two Confucian temples within the walls of the city; one of
which having been burned a few years ago, has since been rebuilt, on a
grand scale, by the Mandarins, and is said to be the finest building
in the town. The main temple has a lofty portico, and a fretted roof
which is supported by huge columns of granite. From this temple we
went to a picturesque elevation overlooking the city, and the whole
amphitheatre of hills in the midst of which it is built, and which
is called _Wu-shih-shan_, or Black-stone Hill. At one place, more
than half way up the steep and rugged ascent of this hill, there is a
Buddhist temple, with ornamental buildings scattered here and there;
and upon the highest point there is also an altar, constructed of
stone, which supports a sort of iron vase, in which the superstitious
Fuh-chauans--who resort thither thrice a year for the purpose of
worshipping the heavens and the earth--burn their incense-paper.
Strong sedan-bearers carried me with much apparent ease for some
distance above the monastery, from which point I clambered up the
remainder of the rock-ribbed summit, where the widely extended and
beautiful view, not only of the city but of the mountains, the hills,
and the rice-fields on the low land,--with the river and little
canals intersecting the latter,--more than repaid for the fatigue
which I encountered. The view of the city from this point is one of
great interest; the two nine-storied pagodas,[39] together with the
watch-towers on the walls, greatly relieving the monotony of the low,
tiled roofs; while the scene is still further diversified by the great
numbers of noble old banian-trees for which Fuh-chau is noted.[40]
Passing down the other side of the _Wu-shih-shan_, we reached the city
wall, and continued our walk upon it until we came to the south gate.
The top and sides of these walls were everywhere covered with vines,
grass, and lovely ferns.
Some of the mountains, five or six miles below the city, are two or
three thousand feet high. One of these, called Kushan Peak, has already
become something of a sanatarium for foreigners; and the place is also
noted as being the location of one of the most extensive and celebrated
Buddhist monasteries in China, which is situated far up the side of the
mountain, occupying a charming spot, only a few hundred feet from the
top of the peak. Strangers visiting Fuh-chau usually make a pilgrimage
to this spot; but the ascent of two or three miles--although it could
have been accomplished in a mountain-chair--was too formidable an
undertaking for an invalid, and I was obliged to be contented with a
view of the broad and well-made path leading up to it. This path, which
is shaded most of the way by lofty pines, has “rest-houses” erected
along its winding course; and in the vicinity of the monastery--which
commands a prospect stretching far away among the distant mountains and
fertile valleys--huge camphor-trees are growing.
The hills and mountain-sides on the south bank of the river are covered
with graves and tombs, interspersed among which are beautiful little
groves of lofty pines, and occasional patches of land where a plant is
cultivated, whose flowers are used for the purpose of scenting tea; or,
perhaps, the spot is used for vegetables. The graves of the Mandarins
are always expensive. On our excursions, however, to enjoy the cool
evening air, we frequently passed a new tomb of the Greek-letter form,
which was built with a tasteful, altar-like arrangement, where the
offerings were placed at the time of ancestral worship. This was one
of the most costly and showy tombs I ever saw, and was simply the
sepulchre of a private gentleman of great wealth. Many of the foreign
residences look out upon this vast cemetery, and the delightful house
at which we were guests was built in the midst of these tombs and
tumuli. The spot on which it stands, and the compound surrounding
it, were originally used for the same purpose. When it was purchased,
however, the friends of the dead removed their remains. There are some
very ancient tombs, situated near the wall enclosing the grounds of
this residence, which have been occupied several hundred years.
Low buildings, constructed of wood, and of sufficient height to admit
of three or four rows of shelves for the support of coffins, are also
scattered here and there in this vast resting-place of the dead. Within
them, closely sealed, coffined relics are placed, and remain until what
the surviving friends consider a “lucky day” arrives, and then, the
“lucky spot” in which to inter them being procured, they are buried. I
was assured that not unfrequently years elapsed before everything was
regarded as propitious for the interment of these remains. And also
learned that some were placed there because of the poverty of their
friends, and were left until the latter could afford the expense of a
fitting burial. We observed that many of these temporary little wooden
sepulchres were so old and dilapidated that the coffins were plainly
visible to the gaze of the passer-by.
The foreigners have so far widened and improved some of the many
winding paths--which lead in every direction among the graves, and
stretch far out into the country--that there is ample room for
equestrians. A few European horses are kept, but we observed that the
little Tartar pony of the North was also used. This animal reminded us
of the Canadian pony, although he looked a trifle smaller, while his
mane was much heavier.
Many of my countrywomen would doubtless be appalled at the idea of
having no promenade but that bordered by graves and tombs. I have
already intimated, in speaking of this subject in connection with our
life at Whampoa, that they do not tend to make the aspect of nature
cheerful; and if we found this the case before having seen the unbroken
miles of beautiful hills and the steep mountain-sides, which at
Fuh-chau are covered with these reminders of our mortality, this change
in our location did not render us the less inclined to solemnity.
It is not difficult, however, to become cheerfully habituated even
to this funereal landscape; and the country about Fuh-chau is so
incomparably beautiful that in spite of the graveyard use to which
most of the uncultivated ground is put, one cannot but admire and
enjoy the scenes around him. In fact, the suburbs and surroundings of
this city were more attractive in situation and scenery than any other
place we visited in China. The hill-sides offer finer locations for
residences; where, excepting in the hottest weather, Europeans can be
as comfortable as at home. For although it is very warm from May until
the first of October, the mountain-breezes continue to be bracing until
late in the spring; and returning early in the autumn, the climate is
not as exhausting as at the ports further south. In China, however, the
humidity of the atmosphere is such that the same degrees of heat and
cold are more seriously felt than in the United States.
Kite-flying is a gentlemanly pastime among the Fuh-chauans; and
groups of men are frequently seen moving about among the graves, upon
the hills, engaged in this amusement. Sometimes the kite is made to
represent a flock of birds; and on one occasion we observed that they
were so natural and bird-like in form and motion, that, had we not
been assured to the contrary, we should have taken them for what they
only appeared to be. The Chinese, in fact, are said to succeed so
admirably in making and flying these bird-kites that an Englishman,
on first arriving in the country, being out on a hunting excursion,
fired into a flock of them before perceiving his mistake. We also saw
a centipede-kite,--said to be a hundred feet in length,--which was
flying, and in its motions was not unlike the frightfully disagreeable
reptile it represented.
I was more and more impressed at every place we visited in China
with the skill exhibited by the people in their own peculiar
works of art, but found none more worthy of notice than that of
the Fuh-chauans, whose exquisite carvings in marble are not only
excellent representations of themselves, but also of the local scenes
in and about the city; many of which are beautifully done. The people
of a district about sixty miles from Fuh-chau are famous for the
manufacture of flowers, which are made of silver. We shall not attempt
a description of these beautiful creations of artistic taste and skill,
which represent delicate foliage and flowers, and are formed into
wreaths for the head, as well as made into little ornamental clusters
or bouquets. We saw one wreath of exquisite workmanship, which was
admirably adapted to adorn the head of a bride. The people of this same
district manufacture also a very curious but handsome fire-screen,
woven of paper, on which are represented not only flowers, birds, and
animals, but also figures of men and women, together with various
scenes common to the country. The most remarkable thing about them is
that the figures are made in the weaving. The threads of paper are
colored before the material is woven, and the scenes and figures are
given in the most brilliant hues.
For the benefit of the foreign community the services of the English
Church are held every Sunday in the English Chapel,--which is a small
Gothic edifice, occupying a fine situation in the neighborhood of the
English consulate, and upon an eminence which is quite the centre of
the foreign community. The premises of the American Methodist Episcopal
Mission are also in the same neighborhood with the foreign residences;
and a small church--which is erected within the wall enclosing them--is
arranged into two chapels, one being appropriated to services for the
benefit of Europeans, and the other for such natives as may choose to
attend upon the ministrations of the missionaries. The American Board
have a mission station within the walls of the city, which is occupied
by two mission families. They have also another station in the suburbs,
where, at the time of our visit, two other families were living. The
ladies at these stations were doing all they could for the religious
and domestic education and other improvement of the native women and
their daughters.
At the station within the walls, Mrs. Hartwell was teaching a number
of native women, but was in great need of a convenient room apart from
her own house, where at stated hours she could receive and instruct
them. On account of the state of the finances at home, the mission was
unwilling to appeal to the Society for aid to build a house for this
purpose, but an effort which was being made, when we left Fuh-chau, to
raise the necessary funds among the foreigners, was successful; and
from letters subsequently received from there, we have been informed
that the building is completed and occupied, much to the satisfaction
of the mission. The school under the care of the wife of the Rev. Mr.
Baldwin,--one of the missionaries of the station in the suburbs,--and
also that of the Misses Woolston,--of the Methodist Mission,--were
spoken of as flourishing, and as quietly assisting to do the same good
work among the Chinese girls of Fuh-chau which is being accomplished by
the same kind of schools at Canton and Swatow.
FOOTNOTES:
[34] This is the ancient port of Zoi-tun mentioned by Marco Polo.
[35] So called because the noise made by heavy waves beating against
one part of the shore, where there is a cave-like formation, is very
similar to the beating of a drum.
[36] The fruit of the _Citrus decumana_.
[37] I cannot refrain from expressing here our gratitude to Mr. O----,
an Englishman,--who, at that time represented the firm of Olyphant &
Co. at Fuh-chau,--for his many acts of thoughtful kindness, and his
gentlemanly attentions while we were his guests.
[38] In the local dialect it is _Tongchin_.
[39] One of these is called the White, and the other the Black Pagoda.
They are very old, and are connected with Buddhist temples. The White
Pagoda, however, is in such a state of decay that no one is allowed to
ascend it.
[40] Fuh-chau is sometimes called by the natives, the “City of
Banians.”