Mr. W---- having been ordered by the Chinese Government to remove to
Swatow, a seaport one hundred and eighty miles north of Hong Kong, our
“chop”-life drew rapidly to a close, and one morning early in the month
of June, 1862, we found ourselves _en route_ for our new home, and once
more on board the American steamer _Spark_, bound for Macao.
A few weeks previous to this time some Chinese pirates had taken
passage at Hong Kong on board a small English steamer bound for Macao,
and while on their way thither, in attempting to take the vessel, had
killed one of the officers, besides injuring some of the passengers.
In consequence of this, we found the large crowd of Chinese passengers
on board the steamer properly secured below. There was also a small
force of well-armed Malays, who not only guarded that part of the boat,
but were also stationed at other exposed points, giving to the little
vessel quite a warlike appearance. Each officer had one of Colt’s
revolvers in his belt, and the foreign passengers were also armed;
so that, although sailing under our own flag, we felt that we were
not altogether among friends. The number of European passengers was,
however, larger than usual, and in case of any difficulty, they would
of themselves have constituted a very efficient force. In view of all
this, and being at the same time aware that the Chinese pirates seldom
attack foreigners unless they are greatly off their guard, we went on
board with no real solicitude in reference to our safety.
We had sailed on quietly for several hours, and had made the
Kumsing-moon Passage,--which, together with the neighboring islands,
was formerly fearfully infested with pirates,--when, in consequence
of an accident happening to our machinery, we were compelled to lie
to and anchor for several hours. Soon after the vessel had stopped,
Mr. Perry,--our Consul at Canton, and Mr. G----, both of whom were
passengers,--discovered that the boat was on fire. At about the same
time, and before the extent of the fire could be ascertained, a number
of Chinese boats were seen to be bearing down upon us. We then began
to fear that our engineers and firemen,--who were Chinamen,--might be
in collusion with these boatmen, and that they possibly intended to
take and plunder the vessel, in which case they would also capture
the foreign passengers, and (as is their custom) keep us in durance
until they received an exorbitant ransom. After the fire was subdued,
it was two or three hours before we could get up steam sufficient to
proceed on our voyage; but as soon as there was any likelihood of our
doing so the native boats disappeared. This accident occurred just as
it was announced to the passengers that _tiffin_ was ready; and to
Mr. Perry--who refused to go below to partake of it, until he could
learn the nature and extent of the difficulty--we were providentially
indebted for our safety. If there was any compact between the Chinese
employées and the boatmen, it was thought that some signal must have
been given the latter, indicating that there were too many armed
foreigners and Malays on board to admit of their meeting with any
success. In fine, whatever may have been the true state of the case, we
learned, after reaching Macao, that we had strangely escaped the danger
of steam as well as fire; it being then discovered that the boilers of
our vessel had been so much burned as to be ruined, and that we had
been mercifully preserved not only from apparent but from real perils.
Macao is exceedingly attractive in winter; but in June and the early
part of July, when its gardens and lovely environs are brilliant with
flowering trees, shrubs, and plants, it is one of the most charming
places in the world. Few settlements in the East have as great a
variety of shrubs and trees, for many of which the colony is indebted
to the East India Company, who adorned their gardens and grounds with
the finest that could be procured in India, and the various islands
of the East. The beautiful nym--called the Pride of India--is here
seen growing in the Government Park; and the gardens of the foreign
residents are beautified with a variety of flowering trees, among which
are the _Bauhinia_, _Poinciania_ and _Lagerstrœmias_. The delicate,
crape-like flowers of the latter are almost unequalled, and, as an
ornamental tree, it has few compeers. Among the flowering plants,
several species of hibiscus, the magnolia, plumoria, oleander, and
jasmine flourish in great profusion; while of creeping plants, the
_Quisqualis Regina_--which was in bloom--exceeded in elegance all the
flowering vines we had seen in the East. The lotus, also, with its
delicately tinted flowers, and the regal blossoms of the night-blooming
cereus,--_Cereus grandiflora_,--both flowering in July, delighted us
with their resplendent beauty.
The deliciously soft atmosphere of the bright evenings in early summer,
at Macao, is unrivalled; and every one goes forth to enjoy “the quiet
and the beauty of the scene.” The native Portuguese ladies--who
rarely venture out in winter--then saunter in little groups along
the beautiful Praya Grande, or, seated on the green (the Alameda)
which adjoins it, may be observed quietly listening to the music of
the military band. The whole circuit of the settlement is only eight
miles, and yet there is a great variety of interesting points in the
scenery,--the suburbs affording many charming walks besides that of
the Praya. Among these, the finest and most desirable for enjoying
the refreshing summer breezes, is the winding road which passes over
the high ridge of cliffs that face the sea. This road--which skirts,
in a part of its course, the finely curved shore of Cacilha Bay--is
called the _Estrada de Cacilhas_. The pandanus, or screw-pine, grows
in wild luxuriance at various points along its border, and the gullies
that seam the steep hills around which it winds afford a variety
of beautiful ferns. There are, also, at the more elevated points
of this road fine sea views, where the air is always delightfully
invigorating. The _Estrada_ is therefore the favorite promenade of
invalids, and foreigners generally, who, if they manage to exist
through the exhausting heat of the tropical summer, may here be
seen at evening in large numbers walking, or being borne around the
cliffs in their sedan-chairs. The precipitous and rocky formation
near the shore of this part of the peninsula, together with the old
fortifications crowning the elevations which rise abruptly beyond, give
the settlement, when approached from the sea, a formidable and ancient
appearance.
In Macao--as in all communities under Roman Catholic rule--the
festivals of that Church are celebrated with much display, and, being
under the patronage of the Government, are very generally observed
by the people. One of these festivals is known as Corpus Christi
Day, on which occasion we witnessed the elevation of the host,--the
procession being composed of the bishop, the high officials of the
colony, with several orders of priests in their different habits,
proved a most imposing pageant. The consecrated wafer was carried
by the bishop,--assisted by some of the high dignitaries of the
Church,--over whom a satin canopy was upheld by the first civilians of
the colony. The procession, with its chanting priests, having issued
from the Cathedral, marched through the streets amid the firing of
salutes from the guns of the Guia fortress; the military, who were
drawn up near where it was to pass, falling on their knees while their
canopied bishop moved by, and the band, also,--although continuing to
play,--assuming the same posture of adoration.
Hundreds of poor Chinamen were gathered to witness this august
spectacle, most of whom were doubtless unable to perceive any
difference between prostrating one’s-self before the host, or before
their ancestral tablets and the gods of Buddha. It was a sad sight,
and the more so, as these Romish priests and their people are looked
upon by the Chinese as representatives of Christianity. Such displays,
however, are well calculated not only to attract and gain the hearts
of the Portuguese and the mixed races of the colony, but also those of
many of the Chinese.
A small company, composed of the soldiers garrisoning the forts,
constitute a military dancing troupe, who, at the festival of St.
John, hold a sort of carnival which lasts through several evenings,
and is thought by the Portuguese to add greatly to the festivities of
the occasion. As this festival occurs in the month of June, we had an
opportunity of witnessing some of these evening entertainments.
The whole troupe maintain, under all circumstances, a strict silence,
and are called the “Mummers.” Accompanied by a ludicrously dressed
harlequin, who directs the dancers and their changes by blowing a
whistle, it is customary for them first to visit the governor and
other high officials of the colony, where, upon the verandas, or in
front of their residences, they perform beautiful fancy dances,
which frequently terminate in fine tableaux. At every place a sum of
money is given them, which is appropriated to a charity established
expressly for the benefit of their regiment. The dancers are arrayed
in fancy costumes, and preceded by musicians, who are also accompanied
by men clad in antique armor. When marching through the streets by
torch-light, they present quite an imposing as well as picturesque
appearance, and their dances seem to have a fascinating influence which
attracts all classes. To make a dancing troupe, however, an accessory
to a Church festival, is, to one unused to any but a purely Protestant
atmosphere, strangely out of place.
A handsome _fête_, or _soirée musicale_, commemorative of our national
anniversary, was given at our consulate in Macao, on the evening of
July Fourth, 1862. This proved to be the event of the season, and
being detained until after it took place, we were happily among the
invited guests. Mr. Nye’s spacious mansion is situated in the heart
of the city, two or three rods back from the street,--its grounds
forming a little park in the rear, and the whole enclosed by a wall
which in front is twelve or fifteen feet in height. With the exception
of the gateway, the entire face of this part of the wall and the
columns ornamenting it were covered with the foliage and flowers
of the _quisqualis_. On approaching the grounds, the evening of the
_fête_, the first thing that attracted our attention was the display
of hundreds of brilliant lights forming eight stars, which were
arranged with charming effect against the dark green foliage on the
walls, and illuminated the street, where a large crowd of Chinese, as
well as Portuguese, had already been attracted to admire the scene.
The Portuguese military band were playing our national airs as our
sedan-chairs passed into the compound. From this a stately entrance led
into a hall, and ascending a handsome staircase which conducted to the
family apartments, we found ourselves in a small ante-room, furnished
with a well-filled black-wood bookcase, an arrangement for hats and
coats, and a few classical engravings. Here the band was stationed,
and from this we entered another saloon situated in the middle of
the mansion, which was furnished in fine taste, and contained some
European and Chinese articles of _vertu_ and art. Passing through this
saloon,--upon the left side of which was the ladies dressing-room,
and on the right the supper-room,--we entered the chief drawing-room,
on either side of which, and leading out of it, a handsome room was
also thrown open, making a suite of three, extending the entire
length of the house. The concert was to be given in the centre room,
where a grand action-piano had been placed for the occasion; but the
arrangement of this apartment being purely classical, it only contained
a few pieces of rare furniture, and some ornamental works of art. Its
walls, however, were decorated with fine old paintings and engravings;
and the rooms leading out of it--although simple and tasteful in
arrangement--were furnished with large centre-tables of elegant
workmanship, upon which were placed immense bouquets composed of superb
tropical flowers. These were arranged by the Baroness Circal,--the wife
of the Brazilian Consul,--who presented them to Mr. Nye, as an offering
to his national festival. They were in porcelain vases of beautiful
design, and were standing on mats made of Berlin wools done in our
national colors.
Arched doorways and windows led from this suite of apartments into
a spacious veranda about eighty feet in length by fifteen in width,
and built the whole extent of the mansion. It was covered with a high
arched roof, and enclosed with glass windows which were shaded with
Venetian blinds. In the evening, however, both the windows and the
blinds were removed, leaving only the high arches and pillars between.
From this veranda a door led to an open terrace, which looked down upon
a lawn beautified with flowering trees and shrubs, and leading to a
little park containing a few deer. To the right was a flower garden,
and to the left a large tank, in which were luxuriant lotus plants
in full bloom. The terrace, which was simply covered with mats, was
enclosed with a brick parapet three feet in height, the top of which
was gay with pots of flowering plants. The arched windows and doorways
leading from the veranda into the drawing-rooms were ornamented with
wreaths of dark myrtle tastefully interspersed with delicate flowers,
among which the _quisqualis_ was prominent,--its lovely pendant
fascicles contrasting with the rich shining green of the myrtle with
distinguished effect. The dark and richly polished timbers running
across the veranda, just under the curve of the roof, as well as the
arched windows opening upon the terrace, were also decorated with
garlands, and an elegant basket of exquisite flowers was suspended from
the centre of each arch. At one end of the veranda the American flag
was so draped as to form a background of stars for a large portrait
of General Washington, which adorned the centre of the arch, and was
the most conspicuous object at the _fête_. At the other end the “Stars
and Stripes” together with the flags of Portugal, England and Brazil,
were tastefully draped together, while the national colors of Portugal
and Spain were prettily arranged just above the centre arches which
led out upon the terrace. These, as well as various other national
flags used in adorning the veranda, were embellished with chaplets
of myrtle and flowers. Nothing could exceed the elegance of these
decorations, nor the fine taste displayed in all the arrangements of
the brilliantly lighted apartments. Twenty-six stars, which were also
disposed among the trees about the grounds so as to have their dark
foliage for a background, made, with those that illuminated the front
wall, thirty-four, and showed conclusively the loyal sentiments of our
Consul.
The Governor of the colony was absent at Peking, but all the other
officials, and the Portuguese army officers, together with the foreign
Consuls, were present, in full court-dress. The Baron Circal--who takes
his title from the little town of Circal, in Portugal--was also present
in full regalia, with a diamond star of the first magnitude making a
brilliant display upon his left shoulder.
The Portuguese ladies, although elaborately arrayed and showing a
decided taste for gay and striking colors as well as for ornaments,
were in what a Portuguese writer, in describing the festival, called
“simple toilettes.” The stateliness of both the men and women bordered
frequently upon stiffness, and although some of the former were
able to converse a little in English, the ladies knew nothing of the
language. In fact, one rarely meets in Macao with a Portuguese lady
who speaks English. Among the gentlemen there was a superabundance
of goldlace and bright buttons, and, as at all entertainments given
by foreigners in the East, they greatly outnumbered the ladies. The
concert, which lasted until twelve o’clock, was performed by French and
Italian artists from Hong Kong, and the music, consisting chiefly of
selections from popular operas, was delightful. At the close of this
musical entertainment, being requested to step out upon the terrace,
we found the twenty-six stars--which were arranged among the trees,
and during the evening had only been partially illuminated--beaming
in full refulgence. Before we had more than cast a glance at this
resplendent scene we were surprised at hearing distant martial music,
and soon the military dancing troupe, accompanied by torch-bearers,
was seen marching under the shadow of the trees that bordered the
walk on the other side of the grounds. On reaching the lawn near the
terrace, the musicians struck up a contra-dance, which being performed
by that picturesque company amid the brilliant light of so many burning
stars, and in a spot so charming, was quite enchanting. This agreeable
surprise added more to the entertainment because it was so unexpected,
and was a source of great enjoyment. As the troupe left the grounds,
and while the band in the small saloon were playing our national
airs, we were handed to the supper-room. The table was brilliant with
flowers, whose superb arrangement, in connection with the display of
fruits seen peeping out from beneath buds and blossoms, evinced much
delicacy of taste and gratified one’s relish for the beautiful, while
the elegant supper, refreshing the inner man, prepared the gayer
portion of the company for the amusement that was to follow.
Directly after supper the veranda was cleared for dancing, and the
spacious apartment being occupied throughout its entire extent, the
_coup d’œil_ of the long vista was very beautiful. Indeed the tasteful
decorations of the room, together with the showy toilettes of the
ladies, and the bright buttons and epaulettes of the gentlemen,
produced a scene of rare splendor, and the few Americans present
entered into the spirit of the festival with grateful alacrity. The
fact that our country was in affliction only made us the more anxious
to be known as loyal citizens of the Federal Government; therefore
the toilettes of our countrywomen were slightly embellished with our
national colors, while the gentlemen wore badges combining the same
hues. After supper, some small photographs, taken from the portrait
of Washington, which hung in the veranda, were distributed among the
ladies, and gave much satisfaction. A French naval officer among the
guests having also received one of these little pictures, remarked
to me, with evident satisfaction,--“I, too, have one picture of Mr.
Washington!”
In a description of this entertainment, which was written in Portuguese
by the Secretary of the Colonial Government and appeared in the
Government paper, there occurs the following passage in regard to this
happy idea of our Consul:--
“Not willing to omit the smallest point of etiquette,--notwithstanding
the picture of the great Washington was seen resting on the ensign of
the United States, to preside over the feast, which was proceeding with
great spirit,--still Mr. Nye offered a photograph of the hero to each
of the ladies.”
Being gathered to celebrate the natal day of our nation at a time
when a melancholy war was raging at home, the conversation naturally
turned upon its condition and prospects, and the probable result of
the rebellion. We have a pleasant and grateful remembrance of our
intercourse with the English friends whose acquaintance we made in the
East, and no one can more admire the social life of a well-bred and
cultivated English family than we do. No people are more delightful,
and no hospitality can be more charming; yet, with few exceptions,
the English people met with abroad know so little of the true spirit,
character and condition of the United States, and consequently have
such vague, and not unfrequently monstrous ideas of our institutions
and government, that when one discovers the reason for their erroneous
opinions, it is vastly more amusing than annoying to hear them express
their views in regard to our final destiny. It is therefore the better
way, when brought into contact with this class of our cousins, to be
quietly reticent; leaving them to learn, as they finally must, that
being of their own stock, and not having any taint of the convict
element which we fear flows in the veins of some of the Southern
rebels, (whose States were originally penal colonies,) we not only
can contend stoutly for a principle, but will also fight for it as
patiently, persistently, and bravely, as they do.