me that Henry Clay is the proper man for President. The whole tenor of
his life has been for his country's good. He feels the moral degradation
the states of Pennsylvania, Indiana, Illinois, and Mississippi have
brought upon his country by repudiation; and he would, if returned,
advocate appropriating the waste lands to paying their debts. He would
also _veto_ annexing Texas and the Oregon territory, and by such means
keep the southern and northern states from collision. My humble opinion
is, if the southern states get hold of Texas, as their interests are
diametrically opposed to the interests of the North, all they require is
a little more strength to set about a separation.
_Saturday_ morning.--Rose dissatisfied with the Astor, they having
placed us four stories high to sleep. Called upon several friends in the
course of the day. Nothing particular in view. In the evening visited
the Chatham Theatre, a regular Yankee place, to see the original Mr.
Rice perform a burlesque _Othello_!! and the farce _Here's a Go_! He
acted to admiration, and sang lots of Nigger songs, amongst which his
masterpiece, "Jump Jim Crow," was encored three times. He placed us in a
private box, and we spent half an hour with him. A more gentlemanly man
I never met. He is retiring upon a fortune made of £10,000. Home and to
bed at eleven.
_Sunday_ morning.--Mr. Pearce called for me to go and spend the day at
Staten Island, at the Pavilion, where, he was stopping. We took a long
drive past the Quarantine, where the doctor boarded the _Western_. Saw
the Hospitals, Fort George, the Telegraph, and the very handsome
buildings of Mr. Goodue and Mr. Brown, and a magnificent marble building
called "The Sailor's Snug Home:" an Englishman left the money to build
it. And I was then introduced to the Flandens, Mr. Pearce's family, and
Mr. De la Forest, the French consul, a relative. Dined, and returned to
the Astor. Paid my bill, and ready to start up the North River for
Albany in the morning.
VISIT TO THE CANADAS;
NIAGARA;
RETURN TO NEW YORK & BOSTON;
AND
VOYAGE HOME.
_Monday, September 24, 1843._--We proceeded on board the _Empire_, Capt.
S.K. Roe, bound to Troy and Albany. Her length is 330 feet,
one-sixteenth of a mile; breadth of beam, 30 feet; extreme width, 62
feet; burden, 1040 tons; and 600-horse power: only draws 4 ft. 10 in.
water. She is past all description. The Hudson River, the sources of
which are in 44° N. lat., was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609. We
passed Jersey City and Stevens's Seat, celebrated for American
steam-boats. The mantle of Fulton may be said to have fallen upon him.
We then passed West Hoboken and the Beacon Race-course. Seventeen miles
down we passed Philipsburgh, an old Dutch settlement. At the Tappan Sea
the river is three miles broad. The Sing-Sing state-prison is in view at
Nyack; and the Croton River comes in about two miles from here. Thence
Vrededicker Hook, on the top of which there is a clear crystal lake of
three or four miles circumference. Thence we pass Stony Point. It really
is past description, and would occupy a book to do justice to the
magnificent scenery. Passed Anthony's Nose, Buttermilk Falls, Sugar
Loaf, West Point scenery, and the Capitol Hotel. There is a public
edifice for 250 cadets. The academy was built in 1802. We then pass West
Point Foundry. The highland scenery is sublime. We then pass Newburgh,
and come in sight of the Catskill mountains, the highest (say 3000 feet)
in the States: we did not ascend them, although report says we should
have been repaid. We arrived at Albany at six o'clock. Population of
Albany, 25,000; the capital of New York State.
_Tuesday_ morning.--Looked through the State House--a fine building. The
Congress Hotel we found comfortable. Nothing worth noticing in the town.
We took stage and passed Rensselaer's Estate all the way to Troy. The
cause of dispute is the doubt the farmers have that one of the Dutch
kings did not give and covenant the seestates, which the Van Rensselaer
can prove by parchment: thus the tarring and feathering is done. Troy
population is 40,000: a nice town, with a splendid arsenal, 156 miles
from New York. The Hudson is navigable no farther. We took a chaise to
the Shaker Village of Watervleit, where we found a Shaker settlement of
about 120 people: there are three more in the neighbourhood; in all
about 400. At this place they have 2000 acres of good land, their own:
they grow everything they eat, and are all teetotallers. We entered the
house where the Shaker manufactures are sold. We purchased a few
dollars' worth, and they politely presented my friend and I with a book
each. The old gentleman and lady were very civil, and showed us over the
gardens, where they grow seed for sale, which is sold by Wilcox, London.
They are famed for it all over the world. Pine-apples are growing in
abundance; also water-melons, tomatoes, &c. The place was in beautiful
order, and they appeared happy. They declined to show us the chapel, or
the lady Shakers. They all live in single blessedness, and devoted to a
life of celibacy. They are called Shakers from their peculiar form of
adoration, which consists of a dance, performed by the men and women of
all ages, advancing and retiring in a preposterous sort of trot. All the
possessions and revenues of the settlement are thrown into a common
stock, which is managed by the elders. They are capital farmers, and
good breeders of cattle; honest and just in their transactions; and are
the only class of people, either gentle or simple, that can resist
_thievish_ tendencies in horse-dealing. We returned to Lansingburgh,
where packers of beef live, or rather butchers, where they kill and cut
bullocks up by steam, as many as 20,000 in the season. At Cincinnati in
the West they kill 3000 pigs a-day, or 1,000,000 a-year, in the same
way. Back to Troy to dinner, and took railway to Saratoga Springs. This
is a beautiful place, and the water is most beautiful. From every part
of the states they flock here for three months in the Summer. Population
of residents, 2500. New York drapers open stores here. I tasted the
Congress spring, Colombian, the Putnam, and one other, all of which
tasted very much like German Seltzer water, but very purgative. The
United States Inn was our quarters, kept by Mr. Murvin and Judge Murvin.
They dine in the season 1000 and 1100 a-day, and lodge regularly between
600 and 700. I cannot speak too highly of this house. Mr. Murvin
accompanied us next morning by stage to White Hall, along with Mr.
Blanchard, the proprietor of all the stages on this line--a fine fellow.
We went along the Champlain Canal, which connects the Hudson River and
Lake Champlain, past Glen's Falls. We passed through the region of
Burgoyne's operations, near the place of his surrender; Fort Miller, and
Fort Edward, where Miss M'Crea was murdered; and the tree to which
General Putnam was bound in 1757. This fifty miles was the most
frightful travelling I ever had. Great black bears prowl here. Trees and
planks were frequently laid across the road to fill up holes; and
frequently there would be openings in bridges that a horse could have
gone slap into. After many, as I supposed, hairbreadth escapes, going
two or three feet into holes, &c., we arrived at White Hall--at the
junction of the canal and lake navigation--a place of business before
the revolution. Major Skeen lived here. We took the steam-boat
_Saranac_, Capt. Lathorp, who politely gave my companion and I a
state-cabin. This lake, for beauty of scenery and historical incident,
is one of the most interesting in America. It is close to Lake George,
which lake, I regret to say, the boats were taken off for the winter.
Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain in 1609, and extends
to St. John's, Canada, 120 miles. We passed Ticonderoga, which was an
important military post during the colonial wars. General Abercrombie
was defeated here, with the loss of 1941 men, in 1758. Burgoyne was
here. We then passed Crown Point, where the British Government expended
two millions sterling. We met the Burlington steamer, the most neat and
beautiful boat in the United States: were introduced to Captain R.W.
Sharman, the beloved commander. This is halfway--an important town of
3000 people. It is the seat of the University of Vermont, as we are now
in that state. We then passed Port Kent, Valcour Island, and
Plattsburgh, which is situated at both sides of the Saranac River. It is
a military post. Here there was a great battle both by land and water:
the British land-force was commanded by Sir George Prevost, and the
naval by Commodore Downie; the Americans by land General Macomb, and
water Commodore M'Donough. They fought two hours and twenty minutes, and
the British surrendered. We passed Cumberland-house to the United States
line, which has recently been settled by treaty by Lord Ashburton and
Mr. Webster.
We here entered Canada, and laid quiet till morning, it being foggy. The
Isle Aux Noix is the first military post of the English. We arrived at
St. John's at seven. This is the extremity of Lake Champlain, which is
here checked by the commencement of the Chambly Rapids to the St.
Lawrence. We visited the British barracks. The 81st Regiment was
stationed here. This fort sustained a siege of six weeks before it
surrendered to General Montgomery in November, 1775. We breakfasted, and
proceeded to Montreal by railway, or rather to Laprairie, a dirty town,
and crossed the St. Lawrence in a steam-boat. Montreal has 40,000
inhabitants, and is the seat of the Provincial Government. It looks like
an old English town.
I may observe that the thermometer stands here to-day at 50°, and was a
week ago at 94°. The sudden change has nearly knocked me up. Starved to
death, and no fires, except on the floor. Not much comfort in the
Exchange Hotel; dirty bedrooms and small. Admired the Roman cathedral:
the bell is seven tons weight: it is one of the finest in the world. And
the docks are first-rate, with lots of shipping. All bustle and
business. Walked about the town. Saw the Courthouse, the Parade-ground,
and all the principal buildings. To bed--tired, cold, and weary.
_Friday_ morning, September 27th.--This being mail-day, wrote several
letters to England, and forwarded some newspapers. In the afternoon
called upon several customers, and found out the stores of all. Rickards
and Leeming dined with me. To bed early. Still a bad cold.
_Saturday_ morning.--A regular day of business. Called upon every
customer, and found them most civil and polite. I may mention Mr.
Cuvillier, sen.; Mr. Masson, of Robertson and Co.'s; Mr. Colquhoun, of
Scott, Tyer, and Co.'s; and Mr. Paterson, of Gillespie, Moffat, and
Co.'s--four of the largest houses;--indeed, I cannot speak too highly
of all. Dined, and took steam-vessel, _The Queen_, to Quebec. A cold,
foggy night. Turned in at seven.
_Sunday_ morning.--Found we had lain-to since one o'clock on account of
the fog. Had a most refreshing sleep, and rose at seven to breakfast. I
could not but admire the St. Lawrence River--the beauty of this noble
stream at all points is enchanting. We passed Richelieu, where the corn
is grown, in part, that is sent into England. We passed the lovely
island of St. Helen's, and over the rapids of St. Mavey, Richelieu, 45
miles from Montreal. Thence Lake St. Peter, nine miles wide. The St.
Lawrence does not average more than one mile. We then approach the
Richelieu Rapids. The river again becomes interesting. The churches
appear with their tin domes and spires. The rafts, with houses built
upon them, are floating down the river like some moving world. We left
the eastern townships on the right, south of the St. Lawrence, which
join the State of Maine and Vermont on the left, or north. We pass Cape
Health River, thirty miles behind which is Jackcartier, a settlement for
the Irish. At Chasidiere, six miles from Quebec, we pass some great
lumber or wood establishments, where ships load for England. We pass
Daleam's Island and Point Levi, and approach the harbour, where forests
of British shipmasts are seen along the shore, with Orleans Island
a-head. Lumber coves abound here. The grim and powerful batteries, where
all the ingenuity of military skill has been exhausted to produce
another Gibraltar, are seen on the left.
Two o'clock, P.M.--We sojourned at Payne's Hotel. He is an Uxbridge man,
and most attentive. We took a carriage to Montmorence Falls, and were
much pleased. Straggling, snow-white cottages abound here for miles.
Quebec, lat. 46° 59' 15"; long. 71° 13'.
I may here observe, that Lower Canada, embracing and including Montreal
to the Gulf, about 400 miles down, has a population of from 600,000 to
700,000: Quebec and its suburbs has about 30,000. The vessels resorting
to this port are about 1000 during the short season of five months.
Quebec is situated on the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, with the
River St. Charles on the north. The volume and depth of the St. Lawrence
is unequalled: it moves with a speed of three or four miles an hour. The
oceanic influence is great. To-day it is 30° below zero, and in the
summer it is sometimes 100° above (Fahrenheit's scale).
We returned to the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell, and a paltry
monument is erected. This is a fine view. Near this is the cove where
General Wolfe and the British troops crept and scrambled up to the
summit of the heights, which resulted in the defeat of Montcalm in 1759,
and the prostration of French power in Canada.
_Monday_ morning.--Attended to business till one. Then took a drive to
see the Indian village of Lorette. The squaws are not to my mind,
although admired by others. The men get their living by hunting racoons,
&c. They make beautiful work, some of which we bought, and returned. I
had a beautiful drive on the St. Foy Road; quite in the English
style--both houses, fields, gardens, and stables; decidedly the
prettiest drive since I left England. I observed all the windows were
double, and double doors, as the snow remains on the ground for six
months together. To the Exchange and Library, where we had free access.
The inclined plane leading to the citadel is 500 feet. On the top of the
bastion is a covered way and gravel walk, with cannon pointing in every
direction. Here is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding panorama.
Within the citadel are the magazines, armoury, storehouses, &c., and the
messrooms and barracks for the officers, covered with tin. This fortress
combines every invention of science and precaution of art that
consummate skill and ingenuity could suggest, for the protection and
security of the city and garrison; and I should say the D---l could not
force it. The area of the space and works within is forty acres. The
fortifications are continued all round the upper town, in bastions and
solid masonry, and ramparts from 25 to 30 feet high, and of equal
thickness, bristling with heavy cannon. There is a beautiful esplanade,
or public promenade, which is much frequented. The guard are very
strict, owing to Americans prying about very suspiciously at times.
_Tuesday_ morning.--Finished my business satisfactorily. We visited the
old Parliament-house, now a library and museum. There is also the French
Roman Catholic cathedral in the Marketplace, and the English cathedral.
The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, the most noble general France ever
had,--
Mortem virtus communem;
Famam historia;
Monumentum posteritas dedit.
or--
Valour gave a common death;
History a common fame;
Posterity a common monument.
is situated on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from the
Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond. In front is a broad walk
overlooking the Castle-gardens, the harbour, and the shore of Orleans.
We had not time to visit the Chaudiere Falls, but took the fine steamer
_Montreal_, and found ourselves at Montreal at seven on Wednesday
morning, where we sojourned Tetue's Hotel, being sickened of the
Exchange, at as they wanted to rob us. Attended to business all day, and
had Mr. Kidson (Glasgow), Mr. Redpath, Mr. Hall, Mr. Easton, and Mr. A.
M'Farlane to dinner.
_Thursday._--At business all day. Rained incessantly. Dined with Mr.
Geddes, who treated me like a prince. He has a nice wife and an amiable
family. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Leeming, and
appointed him our agent for the retail trade. Home, and to bed, and had
a good night's rest.
_Friday._--Rained incessantly. Found the benefit of my new rig-out of
flannel and India-rubber boots. Visited the House of Assembly. The
Speaker, my kind friend Mr. Cuvillier, had given me an order. He has
£1000 a year, and the representatives two dollars a day. The Legislative
Council Chamber is worth seeing. I spent the evening with Mr. Rickards.
I finished up the most satisfactory business I had done in any town
since I left home. Montreal is very flourishing--the metropolis of
Canada--and will double its population, now 50,000, ere long, if Sir
Charles Metcalfe is supported; but the French Canadians, and the Irish,
who abound, led by their priests, are brewing dissatisfaction and
discord. His councillors have just resigned, and a general election is
taking place. May he succeed is my earnest wish!
_Saturday_, 6th.--We left Montreal at twelve at noon per stage to
Lachine. We passed the mountains and Sir C. Metcalfe's private house on
the road. We took a steamer (the _Chieftain_) here to Dickenson's
Landing, thirty-eight miles. We passed on the left, at starting, an
Indian village, called Cachnawago, where the Ojibbeway tribe live. We
saw several in their canoes. On the left, just before we landed, we saw
the Beauharnois Canal, of E.G. Wakefield notoriety. He must either have
been bought, or, if not, he certainly must have been a fool to allow the
canal to be cut on the American side of the St. Lawrence. The Yankees
are thirsting for British blood; and, should they be successful in
Canada, this costly canal goes. We now took stage for sixteen miles, on
a planked road, and with a first-rate team. On the left were the rapids
of the St. Lawrence, or Cascades. I would not have believed had I not
seen a small steamer, drawing about four feet of water, going down at an
awful rate. I expected every minute it would have been dashed to atoms.
How they escape, eight or ten a day, as they go up the canal and return
that day, is astonishing. This is the most incredible sight I have
witnessed. Roebuck, the Member for Bath, was born here. On arriving at
Chateau-du-Luc we got on board a very fine boat, the _Highlander_,
Captain Stearns--a fine fellow. After proceeding forty-one miles, we
reached the Cornwall Canal, where we were much impeded by seven locks.
This splendid canal, the finest in the world, is one hundred feet wide,
and the locks fifty-two: it is twelve miles long, and about fourteen
feet deep. We now pass from Lower to Upper Canada, direct from east to
west; and about six miles forward we find the State of New York on the
left. About thirty miles farther we call at Ogdensburgh, on the American
side, and Prescott right opposite, where the windmill stands dilapidated
from the skirmish the patriots had here, when the English demolished the
lot. We called at Maitland for wood, and thence to Brockville, and
glided up the Thousand Islands: there really are a thousand islands
between here and Kingston. The foliage on the trees was grand--all
colours. It passed all description; and the trees actually grow out of
the rocks with which all the islands are covered. About ten miles from
Kingston, on one of the islands, lives the notorious Bill Johnston, the
patriot. We arrived at Kingston at four P.M., 216 miles in twenty-eight
hours.
_Sunday._--Sojourned at Lambton-house for the sake of its name, and
walked about this very poor town. It is a straggling place. The late
Government-house is neither elegant nor commodious, and is now a
Sunday-school: still it is the only house of any importance in the
neighbourhood. We walked down to a spring of mineral water, resembling
Harrogate, and one spring much stronger--kept by a hearty couple, Bone
and his wife, from Plymouth. They propose getting a large hotel built by
next year, to vie with Saratoga. I wish them success. They were very
kind. Mr. King came and spent the evening with me.
_Monday._--Found the tradesmen of the right sort: still their operations
are confined. They bitterly complain, and I think _justly_, of Lord
Stanley removing the seat of government. Rents are reduced half, and
many houses are standing empty, and are likely to remain so. Many had
built and enlarged their premises, through the assurance of Sir C.
Metcalfe that the Government would not be removed. Perhaps it was not
his fault: his councillors became, or rather wished to become, his
masters; and the removal took place during the illness of Sir C. Bagot.
There is a faction in these provinces who will bring about rebellion and
an outbreak worse than those of 1837 and 1838. I hope I may be deceived.
One thing is certain, the Governor will not get a majority, he having
dissolved his Parliament; and if he continues to govern it must be with
his Council, without representatives. My warm-hearted Herefordshire
friend, Mr. Wilson, drove me to see the gaol, which is well and wisely
governed, and excellently regulated in every respect. The men are
employed as shoemakers, ropemakers, blacksmiths, tailors, carpenters,
and stonecutters, and are building the prison, which is far advanced.
The net profits the last year were £3000, after paying all expenses. The
female prisoners are occupied in needlework. Among them was a beautiful
girl of twenty, who had been there nearly three years. She acted as
bearer of secret despatches for the self-styled patriots on Navy Island
during the Canadian insurrection; sometimes dressed as a girl, and
carrying them in her stays; sometimes attired as a boy, and secreting
them in the lining of her hat. In the latter character she always rode
as a boy. She could govern any horse that any man could ride, and could
drive four in hand with the best whip in those parts. Setting forth on
one of her patriotic missions, she appropriated to herself the first
horse she could lay her hands on; and this offence had brought her where
I saw her. She had a lovely face, though there was a lurking devil in
her bright eye. I dined with my friend, and went on board the steamer
_Princess Royal_, for Toronto, at eight.
_Tuesday_ morning, six o'clock.--We had arrived at Coburg, a thriving
town on Lake Ontario, where I left letters for the importers of lace. It
is a rising town of 3000 inhabitants, and will soon rank high in Upper
Canada. We passed Port Hope, another rising town; and on the right
Bondhead and Windsor. Lake Ontario is a wonder indeed--216 miles long,
and 90 miles wide--a truly magnificent sheet of water, very rough at
times. We arrived at Stone's Hotel, Toronto, at three o'clock, P.M. The
country round is flat, and bare of scenic interest; but the town itself
is full of life, motion, bustle, and business. The streets are well
paved and lighted with gas--the only place in Canada, except Montreal,
where gas is introduced; the houses large and good; the shops
excellent--many of them may vie with the best shops in thriving
country-towns in England. There are a handsome church, courthouse, and
public offices, and many commodious private residences. It is matter of
regret that here, too, political differences run high. I visited the
Reform Association, where the noted Baldwin was holding forth, and
preaching sedition under pretence of abusing the Governor-General. This
body are spreading discord, by their branches, all through Canada: where
it will end is to be seen. I saw all the importers, and retired to rest
tired, at eleven o'clock.
Population of Toronto, 20,000.