Montreal. They are active business men, and have lots of back-country to
depend upon--good land, and the farmers of the old Dutch sort. The
women must necessarily wear more clothes than in England, in
consequence of the climate. At two o'clock I took the _Eclipse_
mail-boat, Captain John Gordon, from Aberdeen; and let me observe, all
these captains of steamers here are fine fellows, not very well
paid--salary not more than £300 a year. We were again on Lake Ontario,
and passed Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington-square on the right:
healthy towns, but small. The farmers here all reserve a good portion of
wood for fire, and rails and planks for domestic purposes. At the bottom
of the lake we passed through a short canal into Burlington Bay--a
beautiful sheet of water; and arrived at Hamilton, at the terminus of
the navigation.
_Thursday_ morning.--Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000
inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is
the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a
partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty
branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased
me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There
is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the
distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab,
who made such a formidable stand for the constitution against the rebels
L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.
_Friday._--Returned by the same steamer to Toronto, and finished up my
business satisfactorily. Took a walk with Mr. Fisken to see the new
college, which is at a stand-still for want of funds, and saw the
Government observatory; and then visited the stone prison, which I did
not like, as there is no work for the prisoners--all lying idly
about--great contrast to Kingston. The town all in confusion nominating
the candidates. In Toronto all the footpaths are planked with wood,
which is very comfortable to walk upon.
_Saturday._--Took a steamer at seven, A.M., for Niagara. Arrived at that
town, of 1800 inhabitants, about twelve. A small place, of 3000
inhabitants, on the left, is Young's-town, on the American side, where
their flag was flying in opposition to our union-jack. There is a fort
at both places. Seven miles farther up the Niagara river, which we were
now in, having left Ontario, we landed at Queenstown, a small place
right opposite Lewistown, U.S. Here Brock's monument was erected and
blown up. We then took rail seven miles, passed Drummondsville
battle-ground, and arrived at Clifton-house.
THE FALLS.
Oh my God! how I was stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of
the scene! It was not until I reached Table Rock, and looked upon the
fall of bright green water, that it came upon me in its full might and
majesty. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart an image of beauty,
to remain there changeless and indelible until it ceases to beat. It is
overpowering to think that the outpourings of lakes Superior, Huron,
Erie, Michigan, and St. Clare, covering a surface of 150,000 square
miles, all roll down this 157 feet fall, with, it is said, sixteen times
the power, deducting one-third for waste, of all the water-power used in
Great Britain. I wandered to and fro, and saw the cataracts from all
points of view. At the Great Horseshoe is decidedly the best view, near
Table Rock: you can see the rapids approaching the verge as if gathering
strength to take the giant leap. When the sun shines the rainbow appears
like molten gold upon the spray; and when the day is gloomy it crumbles
away like snow, or like the front of a great chalk cliff. But always
does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down. The rise of spray
is great at times. But enough.
_Sunday_ morning, very early, I went down a spiral staircase leading to
the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, where I could have passed 153 feet
behind the falling sheet, but I soon got wet, and returned. Table Rock
projects out many feet above this place, and will come down ere long, as
it is much cracked. I then visited an Episcopal church at
Drummondsville, where the desperate battle was fought--a beautiful
village above the Falls--and heard a good sermon. Returned to
Clifton-house, and ascended to the promenade on the top, which is very
commanding. After dinner, with Mr. Parker, from the Caledonia Springs,
on the Ottaway River--with whom, and his lovely daughter, I had
travelled from Toronto--I started by the ferry-boat for the American
side. This gave me another fine view, as we went close under them. On
landing at the other side, we had to ascend a ladder about 200 feet
high. We ordered a carriage at the Cataract Hotel, and drove to the
whirlpool, four miles down the Rapids. This is an awful place, and
indescribable. We then walked over Bath Island and Iris (or Goat)
Island: here again is a splendid view. We saw Gull Island, where man has
never been; and in the Rapids we saw the hull of the ship Detroit,
fitted up in 1841 for the purpose of being sent over the Falls, but she
went to pieces before she got over the Rapids. It got dark, and
descending those long stairs, and crossing the Niagara River, was not to
my mind. However, we landed safe. Tired, and to bed.
_Monday_ morning.--Visited Mr. Barnett's Museum. Bought some sticks
peculiar to Niagara, and Indian curiosities; and looked into the large
camera obscura, which reproduced every sight at the Falls. Ascertained
from Mr. B. that the Canada Fall is half a mile in circumference, and
the American a quarter of a mile. The depth of the water on the verge of
the Horseshoe Fall is twenty feet. The Falls can be heard from five to
twenty miles, according to wind and atmosphere: it is said they have
been heard at Toronto, forty miles. The quantity of water supposed to go
over the Falls in one hour is 102,093,750 tuns. I must now take my leave
of the Falls with regret, as my friend Mr. Stephenson called, and drove
me to see a Canadian farmer. I was much pleased with his farm and
husbandry, and his domestic fireside. He makes £50 a year by his bees,
and grows almost everything that the family eats. We then drove to the
burning springs in the Niagara River, and over to Chippeway, where Mr.
S. has a saw-mill, of twenty-horse power, that will cut up 11,000
superficial feet of wood a day. Chippeway has 700 inhabitants. We left
it per steamer, and saw the Rapids to great advantage before they dashed
over the Falls. Here, to the right, is Navy Island, of 304 acres, which
was occupied by Mackenzie, Van Ransselaer, and about 400 Patriots, in
1837-8, for five weeks. Their object was to collect recruits to
revolutionize Canada. On the American shore, on the left, is Schlosser
landing and wharf, where the _Caroline_ was moored when Capt. Drew, the
commander of a squadron of five steamers, cut her out, towed her into
the stream, set fire to her, and sent her over the Falls blazing. The
patriots fled after this. M'Leod was tried by the Americans, and
acquitted. Opposite Navy Island was the place where poor Usher lived
that was shot by two Yankees, who suspected he knew of the _Caroline_
affair. About thirty miles up the Niagara River we got into Lake Erie,
300 miles long; and on the right (Canada side) is the Welland Canal,
which connects Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, a splendid undertaking by
Government, 32 miles long. Here you can see the mist that is caused, or
spray rising from the chasm of the Falls, at this distance. On the left
is the Erie Canal, which conveys all traffic to and from New York; and a
little farther we arrive in the busy, bustling harbour of Buffalo,
whence ships and steamers sail for all parts of the far West and
Southern states. We drove to the United States Hotel, and to bed.
Population of Buffalo, 25,000.
_Tuesday_, the 15th.--This is the queen of the lake cities, admirably
situated at the outlet of Lake Erie, and the head of the Niagara River.
All produce and traffic of every description for the Western country
must go here, to be reshipped from the canal boats. The Erie Canal is
eighty feet wide, and thirteen deep. The streets are broad, and
intersect at right angles. The buildings are in general decent--some are
splendid: the stores recently erected are four and five stories high;
and, strange to say, not a single dry-goods importer in the town. We
drove round the neighbourhood, and examined a poor-house of paupers and
lunatics. I left at four, East for Rochester--population, 23,000: 75
miles; and Auburn, 78 farther--population, 7000. Visited the New York
State Prison, the largest in the world: they make here, as at Kingston,
every description of article: about 800 convicts at work daily. Lett,
who blew up Brock's monument, is here: I saw him daily. I was really
more pleased here than at any previous sight. The discipline,
cleanliness, and behaviour were astonishing. At twelve they marched to
dinner in Indian files, with a simultaneous lock-step, eyes to their
overseer, head erect. The muffled bell strikes at four, and labour is
suspended. I bought some very good cutlery manufactured by the convicts.
Auburn is two miles from Lake Cuyaga. Left here at two for Syracuse--26
miles: population, 8000. Thence to Utica--53 miles: population, 14,000.
Broke down on the road, and, detained three hours, was obliged to stop
till four in the morning. Thence for Schenectady--78 miles: population,
5000; and to Albany--16 miles (326 miles). The most tedious journey I
ever had in my life. I had a long talk on the way with a very
intelligent farmer, who told me the best breed of sheep they get from
England are called esquirol or merino; mugs do not answer; and that best
parts of mutton were sold at 3 cents per lb. Cattle, the short-horned,
they imported, and the meat sold at 2-1/2 cents; pork, 4 cents; cheese,
6-1/2 cents; and butter, 11 cents. They are far behind us in horses. In
Long Island and Rhode Island they are improving the breed. Arrived at
Albany at eleven, A.M. Found there were no lace-importers here--all buy
in New York. Saw the State-house--a noble building, where the
representatives and state senators deliberate. Also was shown over the
Government buildings for the management of the state; and took my
departure on board the _Knickerbocker_, a new steamer, most
magnificently fitted up, 325 feet long, and painted in the most superb
style. We had about 700 passengers, and plenty of berths for all.
Arrived at the Globe Hotel at seven.
_Friday_ morning.--A regular wet day. Got a bad cold. Made several
calls. Visited the American Institution or Exposition in the evening,
where all descriptions of domestic manufacture, implements, &c., are
exposed for inspection and prizes: also cattle, horses, and a ploughing
match: 30,000 people had attended during the week. Such expositions are
very desirable. Spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Green, and retired
to rest at eleven.
_Saturday_, the 19th.--No mail, although fifteen days out. Took leave of
all customers, finished my business, and satisfied myself that there are
not more than six lace-importers in New York whom I would trust, most of
whom we shall have arranged with Mr. S. Pickersgill for our future
journey. Visited Barnham Museum, the owner of Tom Thumb; and found out
he is an English-bred boy, and no American giant. Spent a quiet evening
with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce. Retired to bed early: could not sleep for
reflecting.
_Sunday_ morning.--No mail. Most anxious for my despatches. Dr. Keen
called, and had a walk. Paid a visit to Dr. Dewey's handsome Unitarian
chapel, and heard an excellent sermon. Spent an hour more with Dr. Keen,
and dined with W.C. Pickersgill, Esq., our banker, a most intelligent,
well-informed man. He is the partner of Fielding Brothers, Liverpool,
and married Miss Riggs of Baltimore. Took tea and spent the evening with
A.T. Stewart and his wife, my fellow-passengers out, and first-rate
people; and retired to my bedroom to read the Bible at nine.
_Monday._--A most unpleasant journey. Took the Philadelphia rail to
Elizabethtown. Thence to Sommerville, and to Clover-hill per waggon, in
search of Mr. D----'s brother. Arrived at three o'clock, and found he
was from home: waited at a farmhouse till ten, when he arrived, and I
soon found out that the American atmosphere had contaminated him. A
regular thief!--would not pay his brothers (B---- and D----) a cent out
of £300 he owes them. Although I was miserable both in body and mind, I
benefited by what I saw at this humble place. I saw happiness without
ostentation: a good husband and amiable wife. They strove to make me
comfortable. I had mush and milk for supper, lapped myself up in a
blanket, and laid down till five in the morning. Moses M. Bateman drove
me back 16 miles, and I returned to New York (70 miles) after a
fruitless journey.
_Tuesday._--Found my letters per _Acadia_: they gave me much domestic
gratification. Two I had from my wife, and one from Bow Churchyard.
These were in answer to my first despatches. I dined and spent a quiet
evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce and Mr. Flanden, and retired to bed
early.
_Wednesday._--A great Clay and Frelinghuysen day. A grand procession of
the Whigs of many thousands. Mr. Pearce and I visited the Creton
Aqueduct for supplying New York with water. It is 1826 feet long, and
836 feet wide, and covers 35 acres. It comes down a tunnel of 35 miles,
part of which distance is an aqueduct. We walked to the East River and
Astoria, and returned to meet Mr. Blane, Mr. Brough, Mr. C. Vyse, and
Mr. Palin, whom I had asked to dine with me at five. We had one of Mr.
Blankard's best dinners, and spent a pleasant evening: were joined by
Dr. Keen and Mr. Green. Brough sang us three excellent songs. They left
at ten; and I to bed.
_Thursday._--I finally finished my mission with Mr. Pearce most
satisfactorily. Visited Mr. Bach, distiller, Brooklyn--my first time
there. Dined with C. Vyse, at Dalmonico's. Met Mr. Blane, Palin, and
Bund. A most sumptuous dinner: would cost at least 50 dollars. Left at
nine, and spent my last evening at New York with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce.
Paid my bill at the Globe, 49 dollars, 75 cents for the week; and to
bed. Could not sleep: a restless, disagreeable night.
_Friday._--Started at eight per Long Island Rail-way to Boston,
Brooklyn, and Greenport, ninety-five miles; per rail thence to
Stonington, thirty-two miles; per steamer in the Bay Sounds thence to
Providence--a town of 15,000 inhabitants, where H.W. Doe is confined;
and to Boston, forty-four miles: in all 218 in ten hours--the quickest
travelling I have had; and proceeded to the Tremont-house. Read the
English papers; and saw the account of my old friend T. Sidney being
made sheriff and alderman in the same week, with the likelihood of his
being Sir Thomas before I return. "Some men are born great, and others
have greatness thrust upon them."
Population of Boston, 50,000.
_Saturday_ morning.--I visited the Custom-house, by previous
arrangement, to clear some pattern-cards. I could not help being
strongly impressed with the contrast their Custom-house presented, when
compared with some I could mention, and the attention, politeness, and
good-humour with which its officers discharged their duties. They saw
the force of my arguments at once, and let me have the books free of
duty; and at their particular request I promised the Custom-house
examiners one. They offered me any amount of money for it, which I
declined to take. They are building a new Custom-house upon a large
scale. The air here is very piercing--easterly winds prevail a great
deal. The houses are bright, and have a gay appearance, the signboards
are painted in such gaudy colours; the gilded letters are so very
golden; the bricks so very red; the blinds and area-railings so very
green; the plates upon the street-doors so marvellously bright and
twinkling--and all so slight and unsubstantial in appearance. The
suburbs are, if possible, more unsubstantial-looking than the city. The
city is a beautiful one, and cannot fail to impress all strangers very
favourably. The State-house is built upon the summit of a hill, which
rises gradually by a steep ascent almost from the water's edge--a fine
building, where all government operations are carried on, as at Albany,
and elsewhere in the different states. From the top there is a charming
panoramic view of the whole town and neighbourhood. In front is a green
inclosure called the Common, a great benefit to the town. The docks are
not very good: a great many ships lay over at East Boston. The Exchange
is a very fine building, where the merchants congregate; but in fair
weather a great deal of business is done in the streets. I wrote about
thirty circulars to St. John's and Halifax, instead of going myself; and
retired to rest at eleven.
_Sunday_ morning, October 27th.--Attended the Trinity church, and heard
a most impressive sermon by Bishop Eastburn, Ephesians iv. 17: "This I
say therefore, and testify in the Lord, that ye henceforth walk not as
other Gentiles walk, in the vanity of their minds." A wet, nasty day;
read the Bible till dinner-time; thence to St. Paul's church to hear Dr.
Vinton: he spoke so Yankee-like, I could not understand him at the
distance I was. Very handsome churches they have here. Took a long walk
all round the city; admired the neat houses they are building in all
directions; and felt that the State of Massachusetts stood the highest
in my estimation of any of the states I had yet visited. Spent the
evening with Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester--the most
decided man of business I had met with for many a long day. It had been
previously arranged that he should carry our patterns through all the
states and Canada.
_Monday_ morning.--Took a regular turn through amongst the importers of
lace, and was thunderstruck at the enormous quantity of
highly-respectable importers, certainly far exceeding New York and
Philadelphia. They are first-rate business men: _no auctions_, which I
detest: no overstocks, which will be the ruin of New York; well
assorted, and in good condition. In fact, I felt as if I had been in an
English town, for the men of business are more like English than
Americans. They nearly all import--at least thirty first-rate men
import--our goods. I experienced a great deal of civility from Mr. W.
Appleton, and Mr. Ward, Barings' agent; and altogether was much pleased
with my reception. Had not Mr. Schofield undertaken to receive our
orders, I could have done a very large trade. I may here observe, the
Tremont is one of the best houses in the states in every respect.
Buckwheat cakes to breakfast; and they use the incredibly large quantity
of 45 tons of butter per year.
_Tuesday_ morning, the 29th.--A regular wet day; rained incessantly.
Called upon all the lace-importers, and found them thorough men of
business--very prompt: came to an understanding with nearly all that
they would order through Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester.
_Wednesday_ morning.--Received my despatches per _Great Western_, and
proceeded to Lowell per rail. I forget whether I described an American
railroad before. There are no first and second class carriages, as with
us, but gentlemen's cars and ladies' cars; and, as a black man never
travels with a white one, there is a negro car. Each car holds from
thirty to fifty. There is a stove blazing hot. Except where a
branch-road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of
rails. They rush across the turnpike-road, where there is no gate, no
policeman, no signal. There is painted up, "When the bell rings, look
out for the locomotive." I was met at Lowell by my fellow-passenger in
the _Western_, Royal Southwick, intimately connected with the factories
there. The first we visited was a cotton cloth and drill factory, where
they make about 50,000 yards per day, all by water-power (the
Merrimack), and have a couple of hundred girls employed. The good order
and clean appearance of both factory and girls contrasted greatly with
both in Lancashire. There are twenty-five mills here. We then visited a
carpet manufactory, by machinery that reduces labour 75 per cent., and
where some of the many girls employed make a dollar a-day. There is no
manufactory like this in the world: there is a patent taken out by E.B.
Bigelow to protect the carpet power-loom manufactory. They must be
making money fast here. We then visited a cloth manufactory upon a large
scale, where they employ about 800 hands; and the excellency of the
cloth surprized me. They will have no occasion for English cloths much
longer. All by water-power. The last place was a large cylinder
print-works, where they produce some first-rate goods, and, I think, as
cheap as ours. There are several factories in Lowell, each of which they
call a corporation, as they are chartered. They employ about 8000 girls,
who make 3-1/2 dollars per week, or 14 s. Their neat, clean, and healthy
appearance pleased me much: they are well dressed; and, meeting them
out, you would take them to be of a higher grade. They pay 1-1/2 dollar
per week for lodgings, which are situated near, and belong to the
different corporations. They are strictly moral and virtuous, and all
contribute to a monthly publication called "The Lowell Offering," well
worth reading. I saw the principal editors (young ladies), and ordered
it for next year. The rooms in which they work are well arranged; and
green plants are trained to shade the glass windows. The laws of the
state forbid their working more than nine months in the year, and
require that they shall be educated during the other three. There is a
hospital or boarding-house for the sick, at 3 dollars per week: they do
not often require its assistance, for in 1841 they had 100,000 dollars
in the savings-bank. We visited the Mechanics' Reading-room--a large
building, with papers from all parts.
The population of Lowell is 25,000; one of the most rising towns in the
states. There are also Fall River, Taunton, Manchester, Great Falls,
Dover, New Hampshire--all rising manufacturing places. In New England
state there is no coal, which is a great drawback. I returned to Boston,
and spent the evening with some friends.