JOURNAL
OF A
VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC:
WITH NOTES ON
CANADA & THE UNITED STATES;
AND
RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN,
IN 1844
BY GEORGE MOORE, ESQ.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION
1845.
Printed by Palmer and Clayton, Crane-court, Fleet-street.
TO
ELIZA MOORE
THIS LITTLE VOLUME
IS MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
BY
THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE.
Having a large circle of friends who feel interested in my American
trip, the propriety of publishing my observations, to avoid going over
the same ground again and again, was suggested by one of them--a hint
with which I have complied.
I can say, with the strictest truth, that I have not revised or altered
any impression formed at the moment. Indeed, I never saw these Notes
from the time they were written till they passed through the press.
Change of scene, and a new current of thoughts, with the blessing of
Providence, have worked a considerable improvement in my health--a mercy
for which I shall ever feel grateful; and while I prize the high
privileges of the land of my birth, and feel proud to be an Englishman,
I hope ever to regard our Transatlantic brethren with respect, and do
full justice to the extensive wonders of America.
_London, April 30, 1845._
LOG, &c.
_Saturday, 17th August, 1844_, One o'clock, P.M.--Left Liverpool in the
_Great Western_ steamship, Captain Mathews, for New York, with 138
passengers. Wind N.W., blowing a strong gale. In two hours very few
passengers on deck, the ship rolling heavily. At four discharged the
pilot. At half-past twelve passed Holyhead. Went to bed rather squeamish
at seven.
_Sunday_ morning.--Rose at seven; was awakened by the stopping of the
engine, from breaking a new wheel which had been put up to work the
blowers for the fires. Detained an hour and half in consequence. Passed
Tuskar at ten. Had public worship at one: the Church of England service,
in which the name of the President of the United States was introduced:
about seventy attended. No sermon, there being no minister on board, and
the Captain not prepared.
The routine of each day appears to be this:--The gong sounds at
half-past seven to rise; breakfast at nine; at twelve lunch; at
half-past three dress for dinner; at four dine; half-past seven tea;
very few take supper at ten; lights put out at eleven punctually.
At seven P.M. passed Cork; at nine Kinsale. 165 miles. Latitude,
51° 58' N.: Longitude, 6° 34'.
At three o'clock on _Monday_ morning, the 19th, passed Cape Clear; and
when I got on deck only a distant view of the most rugged part of
Ireland to be seen. It is now eight o'clock, and the passengers are
beginning to show themselves, the sea having gone down, and the ship
going on smoothly 9-3/4 knots. Laid down the following rules, which I
hope to be able to keep:--Rise at half-past seven; walk on deck till
breakfast; read at least six chapters in the Bible the first thing after
breakfast; then walk on deck for an hour till lunch; afterwards write
for an hour; then walk on deck for another hour; then read any books I
have till dinner; between dinner and tea walk and talk, and take stock
of the passengers, being some of all sorts here; after tea whist till
ten, and then turn in.
The weather continues very calm, and the sea smooth. This steamer,
without exception, the easiest and most comfortable I have ever sailed
in. About 100 dined to-day, and the general appetite appeared to be in
a satisfactory state.
211 miles. Lat. 51° 32' N.; Long. 11° 59'.
_Tuesday_, the 20th, seven A.M.--A most beautiful morning. Spent the day
as usual. During dinner the wind changed to E.N.E. Set all sail below
and aloft, and the engine made 12 revolutions in the minute. It was now
that I became acquainted with our worthy Captain, whom I found to be a
gentlemanly, courteous, obliging little fellow. Heard some German,
Irish, English, and Yankee songs; and turned in at half-past ten.
193 miles. Lat. 51° 26' N.; Long. 17° 3'.
_Wednesday_, the 21st.--Rose at my usual time. Fine weather. For the
first time saw a sail, a brig, standing to the south, but too distant to
exchange signals. The wind fair, but very light: the engine making
12-1/2 revolutions a minute, or 94 knots an hour. Spent the day as
usual.
228 miles. Lat. 51° 24' N.; Long. 23° 6'.
_Thursday_, the 22nd.--The wind changed to south; and the passengers all
on deck. The sea smooth; and the engine, after being well coaled, made
14 revolutions per minute. Some heavy card-playing on board, and
imprudent losses, which I much regretted to see.
220 miles. Lat. 51° 5' N.; Long. 28° 54'.
_Friday_, the 23rd.--The ship rolling from a south swell; and a very
small muster at breakfast. The ladies generally ill. The wind S.E., and
the ship covered with canvas. Rate 11 knots by the Log. Wind freshened
up to a sharp breeze from the West; and it is now nearly three days
since I have been able to put pen to paper. During dinner all the sails
taken in; and the heavy pitching of the ship sent all the grumblers from
the table.
259 miles. Lat. 50° 33' N.; Long. 34° 59'.
_Saturday_ morning, the 24th.--Read; talked; walked; lunched; walked and
read again. At nine drank "wives and sweethearts;" and then to bed.
239 miles. Lat. 49° 27' N.; Long. 40° 55'.
_Sunday_, the 25th.--A beautiful morning, but rather foggy, as we began
to approach the Banks of Newfoundland. Had a very pleasant day of
reading. Had public service at one: sang the hymn of "Greenland's rocky
mountain;" and Mr. Dodge, of New York, read a sermon of the Rev. Thos.
Spencer's, written when he was sixteen years old, from the text "God is
love." The sea calm, but very damp.
211 miles. Lat. 48° 15' N.; Long. 45° 51'.
_Monday_, the 26th.--A dense fog about the middle of the banks. Sea
smooth. Going 9-1/2 knots. Spent the day as usual.
212 miles. Lat. 47° 5' N.; Long. 50° 44'.
_Tuesday_, the 27th.--Still foggy and dark, cold and comfortless. Saw
lots of porpoises and whales, who walked away from us at their leisure,
the steamer making miserable progress from want of steam, though wind
and sea were favourable. Spent the day as usual.
209 miles. Lat. 45° 43' N.; Long. 55° 10'.
_Wednesday_, the 28th.--Sky beautifully clear; but the usual fog came on
at ten, and the engines were stopped for soundings: 77 fathoms, white
sand. Cape Race distant 60 miles.
229 miles. Lat. 44° 44' N.; Long. 60° 25'.
_Thursday_, the 29th.--Wind dead a-head, with a heavy sea. Only 7 knots;
and many passengers in bed. At four o'clock the wind changed round, the
sea smoothed down, and we had the most brilliant sunset I ever saw: it
was past all description! It gave me a good impression of an American
sun. The Yankees broke out into applause, and welcomed the face of Sol
as that of an old and tried friend. Had a grand state-dinner to-day; and
the passengers appeared to do ample justice to the viands. Passed a
pleasant evening.
200 miles. Lat. 43° 4' N.; Long. 64° 14'.
We presented Captain Mathews with a memorial, signed by all the
passengers, on his first trip as commander, he having been first mate to
Capt. Hoskin in the _Great Western_ ever since she was launched. He
richly deserved a more substantial mark of our regard for his
unremitting attentions.
The following was the Bill of Fare:--
BREAKFAST.
Dishes. Dishes.
Beefsteaks 4 Omelets 8
Mutton Chops -- Boiled Eggs 100
Pork Chops 4 Homony 6
Ham and Eggs 10 Hash --
Fried Bacon 6 Mush --
Fricasee Chicken -- Fried Fish (Soles) 5
Veal Cutlets 4 Do. Potatoes --
Stews 6
DINNER.
Soup--Mock Turtle 6 Boiled Fowls 3 pair
Boiled Fish--Salmon Corned Beef 1
and Lobster Sauce 4 Corned Pork --
Baked Fish -- Ham 1
Roast Beef 3 Tongues 2
Saddles of Mutton 2 Fricandeau --
Roast Lamb 2 Mutton Cutlets 8
Roast Turkey 2 Macaroni 4
Roast Veal -- Curry --
Roast Pig 1 Irish Stew --
Olive Ducks 3 pair Calf's Head 2
Roast Fowls -- Roast Hare 5
Roast Geese 1 Lobster Patties 6
Boiled Mutton 2 Chicken Salad 8
Gullenteen Turkeys 4
PASTRY.
Plum Pudding 5 Mince Pies 6
Apple Dumpling 8 Damson Pies --
Raspberry Rollers 2 Cherry Pies 4
Baked Apple Pudding 5 Rice Pudding 8
Apple Pies 7 Orange ditto 5
Cranberry Pies 7 Custard ditto --
Raspberry Puffs 8 Bergnets --
Plum Pies 7 Brandy Fruits 8
WINES, JELLIES, AND BLANCHEMANGE.
August 29th, 1844.
* * * * *
_Friday._--Saw land to-day for the first time since we left Cape Clear;
and heartily sick of the Atlantic. Saw Lantucket at two P.M. The
atmosphere mild and warm. Paid my wine-bill to Crawford, the head
steward, a black; who, by the way, had got well threshed for
nigger-driving the second steward. Finished my letters for England in
hopes of catching the Boston steamer, which leaves New York at five P.M.
on Saturday.
210 miles. Lat. 41° 18' N.; Long. 68° 18'.
_Saturday._--A beautiful morning. The wind changed. All the passengers
on deck. The pilot (who had come out 160 miles to get the job, a very
intelligent fellow) lent me a New York paper. A good many vessels in
sight. Came close to Long Island. All bustle and confusion packing. Our
boat did her best, but we saw we should be too late for the mail. Got to
Sandy Hook at five; the Narrows at six; and up the East River at seven.
Passed Fort Hamilton; and at half-past seven landed in New York.
The confusion on landing baffled all description. Hundreds of
pickpockets were on the look-out. We sojourned at the Astor House Hotel.
Had a warm-bath, and retired to rest grateful that I was once more on
_Terra firma_.
265 miles. Passage altogether 3022 miles in fourteen days.
_Sunday_, 1st September.--Rose at six. Took a car with my companion, Mr.
K----, of Liverpool, and went down to the _Great Western_ for our
luggage. We met with great civility from the Custom-house officers.
They would not allow luggage to pass after sunset the previous evening.
After breakfast we heard service at Dr. Spring's Chapel, a Presbyterian:
a beautiful chapel, and a respectable congregation, and all in their
pews before the minister ascended the pulpit: the text was, "The Lord
reigneth:" the singing was good: the service terminated at twelve. The
weather awfully hot: the thermometer stood at 92° in the shade. Dined at
half-past two: 300 sat down to a splendid dinner, everything that could
tempt the appetite or please the epicure. Tea at seven; and supper at
ten, if required.
I may here remark that Astor House is the largest hotel in the world.
They make up five hundred beds regularly, but could make up eight
hundred: about sixty waiters; five regular clerks; twenty-one
washerwomen; five manglers (all of which is done by steam); twelve
cooks. Take it for all in all,
"I ne'er shall see its like again."
Their system is as much carried out as Morrison's, Fore-street. You
never have occasion to ring the bell twice: they have twenty rotunda men
who do nothing else but answer bells and carry out parcels. My first
impression of New York on the Sunday morning was that it resembled
Paris.
Population, 350,000. Lat. 40° 42' N.; Long. 74° 2-1/2'.
I here subjoin the Bill of Fare. For eating and bed two dollars per
day, including servants.
_GENTLEMEN'S ORDINARY._
SOUP.
Mock Turtle Soup.
FISH.
Baked Black Fish, Claret sauce, Clam Chowder.
BOILED.
Corned Beef, Chickens and Pork,
Ham, Smoked Corned Beef,
Tongue, Leg of Mutton.
----------
Cold Pressed Corned Beef, Cold Corned Leg of Pork,
Cold Roast Beef, Cold Roast Lamb.
SIDE DISHES.
Lobster Salad, Small Birds, Port Wine sauce,
Mutton Chops, breaded, Small Oyster Pies,
Rib of Beef, Champagne sauce, Ducks, Spanish sauce,
Pigeons with fine Herbs, Veal, Tomato sauce,
Broiled Chickens, Steward's Macaroni,
sauce Eels, Cold Sauce,
Calf's Head, Brain sauce, Beans and Pork.
VEGETABLES.
Boiled Potatoes, Onions, Boiled Rice,
Corn, Turnips, Beets,
Tomatoes, Cabbage,
Fried Egg Plants, Shelled Beans.
ROAST.
Beef, Chicken,
Pig, Geese, Lamb and Mint sauce.
PASTRY.
Peach Pie, Kisses, Lemon Pudding,
Custard Pie, Fruit Jelly.
DESSERT.
Filberts, Almonds, Raisins, Oranges, Figs, Plums,
Apples, Pears, Melons, Peaches, &c.
ICE CREAM.
D. C.
MOSELLE.
Seister Water Price per bottle, 0 75
Moselle, 1831 1 50
SAUTERNE.
Sauterne 1 00
Morton's Y. Chem 2 00
Pints 1 00
HOCK.
Markgraefer, delicate 1 00
Rudeshoimer, 1834, pints 1 50
Marcobrunner 2 00
Steinberger Cabinet, 1831 2 50
Sparkling Hock 2 00
Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenberg of 1831 3 00
Ausbruck Cabinet Graffenburg, 1831 4 00
Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenburg, 1822 4 00
Cabinet Schloss Johannisberger, 1822 5 00
Prince Metternich's Castle, bottled, yellow seal, 1831 5 00
Metternich's Castle, bottled, red seal, 1822 5 00
Prince Metternich's celebrated Castle, bottled, gold
seal, Johannisberger vintage 1822 8 00
CHAMPAGNE.
Schreider 2 00
Napoleon 2 00
Cliquot 2 00
Heidsieck 2 00
Ruinart 2 00
Perriot 2 00
Star 2 00
Venoge, J.T.B. 2 00
Duc de Montabello, dry 2 00
Do. do. sweet 2 00
Do. do. Ladies' wine 2 00
Pints do. do. 1 00
CLARET.
Table Claret 0 50
Do. do. 0 75
Pints of Barsolou 1 00
St. Estephe, V. Barsalou 1 00
St. Julien, do. 1 25
Leoville, do. 1 50
Pontet Canet, do. 1 50
Chateau Latour, do. 1 75
Battailly, Barton, and Guestier, 1834 1 50
Chateau Beychevelle, do. 1834 2 00
Mouton, do. 1834 2 50
Latour, do. 1834 3 00
Chateau Lafitte, do. 1834 3 00
Chateau Margeaux, do. 1834 3 00
St. Julien, in pint bottles, V.B. 0 75
Leoville do. do. 0 75
Pontet Canet, do. do. 0 75
Latour, do. do. 1 00
Lafitte 1 00
PORT.
Particular 2 00
Tower 2 50
Brazil 2 50
BURGUNDY.
Macon 1 50
Do. pints 0 75
Pouilly, White Burgundy 1 50
Do. do. pints 0 75
Pomard 2 50
Chambertin 3 00
Romanee 3 00
Vosne 3 00
SHERRY.
Harmony, Amontillado, delicious 3 00
Sherry, Pale, N.O. 1 00
Sherry, S.S. 1 00
Yriarte, Pale, delicate 2 00
Yriarte, Gold G. 2 00
Crowley (Sayres) Gold 2 50
Do. do. Brown, extra 2 50
Do. do. Amontillado 3 00
Imperial, Pale 4 00
Brown, imported in glass 4 00
Romano, do. very old 3 00
Romano, Pale, very old 3 00
Lobo, Brown, FO, long bottled 3 50
Ne Plus Ultra 4 00
MADEIRA.
Henry Clay, imported into Boston in 1826. 3 00
Madeira, F.B. 1 00
Madera Oliveiro 1 50
L.P. Madeira 2 00
Blackburne's 2 00
Blackburne's Reserve 2 50
Howard, March, and Co.'s Madeira, imported for the
Astor House, F. 2 00
Newton, Gordon, and Murdock's (GM) 2 00
Oliveires Reserve, 17 years old 2 50
E.I. Leacock, old, dry 2 50
Leacock, M.L., imported, 1826, into New Orleans 3 00
Murdock, Yuille, and Woodrope, MY 3 00
Yellow Seal, original N.G.M. delicate 3 00
D.V. Sercial, very delicate 3 00
Brazil, V.I. very old, a favourite wine 3 00
Brown Seal, old Monteiras, 'superior' 3 00
Nabob 3 50
Red Seal, old, bottled, East India 3 50
Eclipse Madeira 4 00
Rapid, imported 1818 4 00
Green Seal, Virginia Madeira, light and very delicate 4 00
White Top, very old and delicate 4 00
Thorndike, very old and 'superior' 4 50
Edward Tuckerman, Esq., Scott, Laughnan, Penfold,
and Co.'s, imported 1820, P.M. 5 00
Gratz, yellow seal, 1806 5 00
Do. green seal, 1806 5 00
Do. black seal, 1806 5 00
Do. red seal, bottled 1806 5 00
Wanton, exceedingly delicate, thirty years in wood, W. 5 00
John A. Gordon's Madeira, imported into Philadelphia
1798 5 00
Caroline, an old family-wine 5 00
Gordon, Buff, Inglis, and Co.'s, imported by H.G.
Otis and Edward Tuckerman, Esq., 1811, G. 5 00
Stalk's Madeira, bottled in Calcutta, imported 1825 6 00
Hurd's Madeira, bottled in 1822 in Calcutta 5 00
Essex, Jr., imported 1819 6 00
Smith and Huggins, Dyker's White top, bottled in
1800 in St. Eustatia 7 00
Tuckerman's B., 1810 7 00
Thorndike's A., 1809 8 00
Wedding Wine 8 00
Gov. Philip's Wine 9 00
Gov. Kirby's original bottles, OO 12 00
* * * * *
_Monday_ morning, the 2nd.--After breakfast despatched three-quarters of
a hundred newspapers to my old and valued friends in England. They keep
no stock on hand for promiscuous sale: they printed them on purpose for
me. After which I visited the business parts. All the streets filled
with empty cases, which they had just cleared for the Fall trade:
auctioneers hammering away in all corners, knocking goods about as if
they cost nothing. In the stores there appears no system--all is
confusion. The heat was awful till seven P.M., when the rain came down
in torrents: at the same time the atmosphere was brilliantly lighted by
flashes of electric fire. Took Mr. and Mrs. Green to the Park Theatre,
to patronize Anderson as _Othello_, Miss Clara Ellis as _Desdemona_, and
a Mr. Dowsett as _Iago_, all of whom crossed with us. A poor set out.
Theatrical property in the States, I understand, is at a greater
discount than in England. Poor Mr. Simpson, whom I sat next to in my
passage, is the proprietor--a worthy man, and much esteemed. To bed at
eleven.
_Tuesday._--A long day of business. Observed with regret their loose
mode. All busy; and they appear to think good times will last for ever.
Nearly all have failed at one time or the other. Bankers discounting
liberally at present; and all appear to be trying who can sell cheapest.
Retired to rest at eleven, lost in amazement, and the reflection that
this state of things cannot last long.
_Wednesday._--Ascertained the geography of the town pretty well; and so
I ought, for I walked till I was nearly red in the face, and my shirt
wet through. Engaged at the present moment, ten P.M., writing this, with
all my bedroom windows open, and in my shirt. _Hot!_ HOT!! VERY HOT!!!
_Thursday._--Called upon Mr. J.J. Echalaz, at Goodhue and Co.'s, where I
received marked attention from both Mr. E. and his employers. When I
introduced my letters from E.B. Webb, at Baring's, got some valuable
information, and letters of introduction to Philadelphia, Boston,
Baltimore, Washington, and Canada. Afterwards took a turn amongst the
retail-shops, to see their system. Mr. Stewart, Broadway, and a few
others, are done upon the London style, but the lower class take any
price they can get. Disco-
[Transcriber's Note: One page of text is missing here (page 15 in the
original work).]
superintendent has a higher object than his pay. God grant that he may
long be spared!--We then saw the avenues; and, as "variety is charming,"
we then visited Niblo's Theatre--something like what Vauxhall was: lots
of handsome girls performing nonsense; and two or three men, more
particularly one named Mitchell, kept us in roars of laughter. Bussed it
home: no conductor: the driver has a strap with which he shuts and opens
the door, and you pay him through a hole in the roof. To bed at eleven.
Began to like my companion very much: found him a sober, religious,
industrious man, who studies to make himself agreeable.
_Friday_ morning.--Bought a lot of books, new publications, at
desperately low prices: bought also a capital map of the United States
and Canada for 10 dollars to send to Bow Churchyard, to show my
_journey_ when I return to Europe. Afterwards had a long consultation
with my old friend and fellow-apprentice, Joseph Blane, who is in
prosperity, esteemed by all who know him, and in possession of the best
information about the standing of the different parties in the dry-goods
trade. Spent the remainder of the day with George Pearce, and was rather
favourably impressed with the object I had in view in taking this
voyage. It is now ten, and I smoke my solitary cigar, having confined
myself to one since my arrival.
_Saturday_ morning.--Full of business all day. Had interviews with
Brown Brothers, (the Rothschilds of America,) from whom I received
marked kindness and attention, and most liberal offers to transact our
money operations. Also spent an hour with Pickersgill and partners, who
had been doing our business, and was much pleased with their
straightforward manner. Also saw Mr. Ebbets, at the Union Bank, whom I
found a business man. Heard all their propositions, and reflected upon
them. Dined with Mr. Pearce, and stuck to my writing till seven o'clock.
Then called upon Mr. Green; and he came and had an oyster supper with
me. And I may here observe, they beat us altogether in cooking oysters:
they fry, stew, roast, boil, and have every imaginable way of cooking
them. Took a warm-bath to finish the week, and not before I required it,
as I have been wet through every day with perspiration since I came
here. To bed at ten.
_Sunday_ morning.--Rose fresh. Had my head shampooed and cleaned in a
most extraordinary manner. Breakfasted, and to St. John's Episcopal
Church, and heard a very good sermon by Dr. Milliner: I forget the text,
although I was much impressed with the discourse. Returned to the Astor,
where my old friend, Joseph Blane, was waiting to take me to his house
to dine. He has the best house I had been in yet--774, Broadway; not
living, like most of the New York merchants, at hotels, lodgings, or
boarding-houses. Introduced to his wife, whom I found a delightful
woman--of French extraction, but Yankee-born. Was introduced to Mr.
Deseze, Mrs. B.'s brother-in-law, a Frenchman, who fought under Napoleon
at Waterloo, and was offered to retain his commission by Louis XVIII.,
but he declined it. This was one of the pleasantest days I had spent
since I left my own fireside. It brought old recollections to my memory
that had long been buried--scenes of my boyhood, when Blane and I were
serving our apprenticeship in Wigton. In the evening we went to Palmo's
Opera-house, to hear Dr. Lardner, of Heaviside notoriety. It was his
second lecture on the "Evidences of Religion afforded by the Phenomena
of Nature, and the Consistency of Science with Divine Revelation." We
were much pleased. He is the most complete elocutionist I ever heard,
and impressed a crowded audience with his sublime subject. What a
melancholy loss to England by his one false step, that degraded him in
moral society! Walked to the Astor, and took one cigar each, when Mr. B.
told me he was collecting charity for the poor widow of H. W----s, who
had left her without a shilling to support four helpless children. He
had 6000 dollars a year, and Mr. F. discharged him for intemperance. He
took to his bed, and died of a broken heart. I envied this man, when I
lived with him at F.'s, for his position. Gave his widow 50 dollars;
and to bed.
_Monday_ morning.--Had a long interview with Prime, Ward, and King, the
first house here whom I had letters to from Barings and Overend, and
Gurney. They gave me all the information in their power, and introduced
me to Mr. Halford's agent, a bill-broker, 46, Wall-street. Was occupied
till dinner writing to Bow Churchyard, and had Mr. Pearce to dine with
me. Dr. Keene called in the evening, and we took steam-boat (as large as
six of the Margate boats) to Holboken. Had a delightful walk by the
Hudson River, and saw some Indians, real Natives, with whom I was much
struck. Returned by a steam-boat, still larger and more crammed: I
should think there must have been 2000 souls, with lots of
trotting-horses, and gigs from 70 lbs. to 120 lbs. weight each,
returning from a trotting-match. Heard some extraordinary grasshoppers,
which repeated "Kate she did!" and "Kate she didn't!" quite distinctly.
Thence, for the first time, to a mobocracy meeting, where they expressed
awfully Liberal opinions--"Polk and Dallas for ever!" The room, a very
large one, was crammed to suffocation: I should think there were 5000
wedged in, and I should say the thermometer stood at 106°. Liberal as I
am, I went no length to them. Beat all the speeches I ever heard. Dan.
O'Connell, Tom Duncombe, and the late Hunt and Cobbett were fools to
them. Home again with a wet shirt, and to bed.
_Tuesday_ morning.--Received letters of introduction from Goodhue and
Co. to Philadelphia, Boston, Baltimore, Canada, and Washington. Had a
long talk with Mr. M., 60, Cedar-street. Introduced by Pearce, about my
intended trip: found him very useful. Received an order from a good
house, without soliciting them. Wrote and finished my letters home per
_Great Western_. Mr. Blane, and my old friend Brough, the performer,
dined with me. Was introduced to Capt. M'Lean, of the _Swallow_, running
to Albany; and then walked with Mr. R., of Manchester, down to the
Battery: a beautiful walk. To the Castle Garden, where there was another
Polk meeting, which I should think 10,000 people attended. Lots of
Liberality again. The Fort close to this is a splendid affair. Came by
White Hall back to the Astor, and wrote a long letter to my wife; and,
as it is just now ten o'clock, good night!
_Wednesday_ morning.--Bought three splendid racoon skins--one each for
Mr. Groucock, Mr. J. of Liverpool, and self, for our carriage
driving-boxes (Mr. J. having put upon my finger a magnificent diamond
ring very unexpectedly when I was leaving my native shore, as a mark of
gratitude for a disinterested act on my part towards him long, long ago,
which he considered had been the groundwork of his fortune:) also some
tobacco to pack in them, to prevent them spoiling. Then saw over the
Custom-house, which is a very fine building; and the Exchange. Business
is not done here as it is in London. Mr. Vyse, Mr. Palin, and I then
visited the Tombs. Prisoners do not remain here long. If the sentence is
long, they are sent to Blackwood's Island. The prisoners here are kept
clean, have well-aired cells, and are allowed to walk about at their
pleasure. They get only two meals a day: a quart of coffee or more, and
as much bread as they can eat. Dinner at three, with plenty of beef and
bread. For very long sentences they are sent to Sing-Sing, up the North
River, and Auburn state-prisons. We then visited the Sessions-house,
where there is no distinction between judges, counsel, or prisoners--all
are in plain dress, spitting about in all corners. Heard an eloquent
counsel defending a prisoner. Saw the lock-up, the warder's and grand
jury rooms. Altogether the Tombs is a very fine building. Saw where the
memorable J.C. Colt destroyed himself immediately after he was married,
and two hours before he would have been hanged. We passed Washington
Hall, where many a fine fellow has been ruined by gaming and drinking;
and dined at Astor House, where I was told it for a positive fact they
take 500 dollars a day ready money for drinks of brandy by people
standing. They pay 40,000 dollars a year rent. We then took a drive,
saw Mr. Vyse's fine horse and sulky, and spent an hour at his
apartments, which are first-rate: then to Trenton Hall to see a Mr.
Green, a reformed gambler, who exposed the rascality of gaming of all
sorts, and taught me how to know the cards by their backs. I was much
interested, and bought his "Life," with its scandalous exposures. Saw
Captain M'Arthey, who shot his brother in a duel, and has been
distracted ever since. To bed at eleven o'clock.
_Thursday_ morning.--Called upon Prime, Ward, and King, for letters of
introduction for my future route. Read P. and S.'s articles of
partnership. Wrote another long letter to my wife. Put Mr. Dowden's
commission into Mr. Pearce's hands, and Mr. Carrick's into Mr. Brough's,
who has friends at Vicksburgh. Bought my wife a handsome rocking-chair.
Then walked down to see the _Queen of the West_, the finest packet-ship
I ever saw. Visited the different markets: saw lots of fruit, but do not
think they touch us in anything but apples; tasted a large pumpkin, but
did not like it. Dined at the Astor; paid my bill, and packed up. To bed
at ten.
MY JOURNEY SOUTH.
_Friday_ morning, the 13th October.--I left New York at nine A.M., and
crossed the North River per steam-boat to New Jerseytown, to the
Philadelphian railway. Each carriage held about eighty; still they were
comfortable with the windows up; and cheap--four dollars for 100 miles.
No second or third class. Six carriages, all crammed. The first station
we stopped at was Rohaio; thence to Elizabethtown; thence to New
Brunswick; then crossed the Delaware to Trenton, Pennsylvania state, and
to Bristol ferry, to the new Philadelphia steam-boat, waiting to take us
down the Delaware to Philadelphia. The country is fertile, capable, with
good farming, of producing good crops, which it has, of buckwheat,
Indian corn, and peaches--any quantity. We passed the seat of Joseph
Bonaparte; and also the notorious Nicholas Biddle's, who was President
of the United States Bank for twenty years, whose stock is now worth £5
that sold once for £140. I was much interested on my journey with a
gentleman from Heilderberg region, in the Rensselaer country, where the
native Indians, as they call themselves, assemble masked; and on one
occasion tarred and feathered the sheriff for attempting to enforce the
rents of the Van Rensselaer family estates, the deluded beings having
persuaded themselves they had as much right to the property as the
family that had it confirmed to them by the law of the land. When will
the _Locofocos_ be satisfied? Nearly opposite Philadelphia is a smart
town called Camden, where the wealthy merchants reside. We saw lots of
people shooting reed-birds on the banks of the Delaware. This is about
ninety miles from Cape Mare: then it is open sea to England. I was
struck with the town of Philadelphia. The streets all run in triangular
directions, and, as in New York, are called First, Second, and so on;
and many by such names as Cedar, Pine, Walnut, Chestnut, Mulberry, &c.
The ruined United States Bank is really a fine building of marble,
uninhabited. The Exchange is worthy of remark. The receiving-room, where
the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, is magnificent. It
has a statue of Washington, and a portrait of William Penn, the first
white man as a settler in 1661. This building was erected in 1733. The
Pennsylvanian Bank is a fine building. The Post-office small and
inconvenient. I then visited the Sessions-house, and heard them trying
the rioters. Home to bed at eight, tired out.
_Saturday_ morning.--Walked the Market-street, being the market-day. Was
much gratified with the immense quantity of domestic articles of every
description, particularly fruit: water-melons as big as 16 lbs. or 20
lbs. weight, and the finest of peaches selling at 1 s. per bushel. I
then called upon all the commercial people I wished to see, and found
they depended upon New York for supply. Found an old neighbour, Lewis
Brown, from Rose Castle, Cumberland, who arrived here without a penny,
and is now worth 150,000 dollars. Returned to Jones's Union Hotel to
dinner. I may observe, it is the best-conducted house I ever saw, and
the cleanest, situated in Chestnut-street, opposite the Arcade. After
dinner, Matthew Williams drove me to the water-works, Fairmount, where
there is a magnificent view of the town. Philadelphia is most
bountifully provided with fresh water, which is showered and jerked
about in all directions. The Water-works are no less ornamental than
useful, being tastefully laid out as a public garden, and kept in the
best order. The river is dammed and forced by its own powers into
certain high tanks or reservoirs, whence the whole city, to the top
stories, is supplied at 5 dollars a tap. It was a fine evening, and we
took a long drive, always passing everything on the wrong side. Very bad
roads, and quite new scenery to me. Returned over a wooden bridge,
covered, as they all are; and crossed the Schuylkill river, which runs
parallel with the Delaware, distant about seven miles, and joins it
there, which makes Philadelphia, like New York, almost an island.
_Sunday_ morning.--Heard a splendid sermon from Mr. Barnes, at his
Presbyterian chapel, Washington-square; text 4th chap. of Philippians,
and 8th verse: "Finally, brethren, whatsoever things are true,
whatsoever things are honest, whatsoever things are pure, whatsoever
things are lovely, whatsoever things are of good report; if there be any
virtue, and if there be any praise, think on these things." We then
walked to Christ Church burying-ground, and saw the grave of the
immortal Franklin. George III. built Christ Church. After dinner took
another drive to Girard College, a splendid unfinished marble structure:
when completed will be the richest edifice of modern times. Girard was a
banker, and died worth 10,700,000 dollars, two millions of which were
left to educate and provide for orphans of all classes. He was a poor
French tobacconist, and rose through trading with the West Indies. We
then drove to the Laurel Hill Cemetery, a beautifully situated place or
plot of ground, by the Schuylkill river: there is the figure of Sir
Walter Scott's Old Mortality cut out of solid stone. The cost for
interment is 3s. 6d. per square foot. We then drove up the
Wissiocou-road to German Town, where they beat us in making woollen
drawers, stockings, &c., owing to our laws and the American high tariff.
Came home by the West, having now driven all round--East, North, and
South. Had tea; and went to St. John's Episcopal Church, and heard a
good sermon from the rector, the Rev. Mr. Newton; text, Hebrews i. 11:
"They shall perish, but thou remainest; and they all shall wax old as
doth a garment." It was most eloquent. With a population of 250,000,
they have 250 churches of different sects, and nearly all talented men
for preachers--indeed, Philadelphia has ever been known for its learning
and benevolence since its rise. I forgot to say we crossed a _wire
bridge_, the only one in the world that would bear 80 tons. Home, and to
bed.
_Monday_ morning.--Took a regular turn through all the commercial houses
again, and like their system better than New York. Lunched off peaches,
and then drove off to the Mint--not worth seeing. Thence to the Eastern
Penitentiary, where they have 360 prisoners. The solitary system is
abominable. I could not walk a happy man beneath the open sky by day, or
lay me down upon my bed at night, with the consciousness that one human
creature, for any length of time, lay suffering this unknown punishment,
and I the cause, or consenting to it in the least degree. The building
is very large, and kept in perfect order: it cannot be praised too
highly. We entered into a large chamber, from which seven long passages
radiate; on either side of which is a long row of low cell-doors,
numbered. Standing at the central point, and looking down these dreary
passages, the dull repose and quiet that prevails is awful. I was much
interested with one prisoner that had nearly completed his seven years,
who stated that he had been guilty of stealing 100 dollars, and that,
his conscience upbraiding him, he took them back previous to being found
out: still he was sentenced. He had a loom, had extracted some colours
from the yarn, and painted his room all over. But enough. I left it
labouring under a feeling of melancholy, and visited the Blind Asylum,
where we saw the system of reading by raised letters beautifully carried
out. A little girl and boy, about nine, who had been there only one
year, could read the Bible well: a young lady from Gloucester (England)
could tell you the latitude and longitude of any place upon a raised
map; and two others could sing and play well, thoroughly understanding
music. They take thirty boys and thirty girls upon the charity, and
educate them so that they can get a living in after-life; and others
they take at 200 dollars a-year for any period. Strange to say, they
sometimes get married. I bought some of their work, and printed some of
the raised letters. Contributed to the charity, and left much pleased.
And I may here observe--Jones's, the Union Hotel, is very first-rate. He
is from Warwickshire: all black servants, with a first-rate system. Got
a good dinner; and then saw the process of hatching chickens by steam. I
regretted I saw this, as I think I shall never like eggs again. We ought
to have visited the City Almshouse, Navy Yard, Marine Hospital, Widows'
Asylum, and many more places, but had not time. We then visited the
Pennsylvania Hospital, established by William Penn. His statue is
erected in the front, where he is represented as treating with the
Indians, after his mission from Charles II. After seeing the patients,
which are taken free to the number of 200, (others are paid for by
different institutions,) we saw the splendid painting by West, "Christ
healing the Sick." We then visited the Musical Fund Hall, and heard the
far-famed Ethiopian serenaders, Messrs. German, Hanwood, Harrington,
Warren, and Pelham, upon the accordion, banjo, congo-tambo, and
bone-castanets, in all of which they stand unrivalled in the world. They
were representing Niggers' lives, with songs, &c. Home and to bed, tired
out.
_Tuesday._--Started for Baltimore at eight, per rail: crowded as usual.
Horses drag you out of the different towns: thence steam. The first
station was Chester: thence across the Schuylkill and Potomac to
Wilmington; and crossed the Delaware and Susquehanna into Maryland--the
first _slave_ state I had been in. A shudder involuntarily came over me.
Having worked up my imagination, I fancied every black I saw was a
slave. We crossed Havre de Gras, and two or three other beautiful lakes,
with bridges of wood over, to save us some miles round, exclusively for
the rail, and arrived at Baltimore Exchange Hotel to dinner. Afterwards
strolled about the town; and passed the house of Jerome Bonaparte, who
lives in the park quite retired. All the houses here appear as if built
within the last few years: the bricks are quite red, and apparently new.
The women, as in Philadelphia, are very handsome, except their bosoms,
which are quite flat. I climbed to the top of Washington's Monument. It
is 180 feet high. The enclosure is flagged with white marble. It was
erected by the slave state of Maryland. The inscriptions are: "Born 22nd
Feb., 1732. Died 14th Dec., 1799, aged 67. Commander-in-chief of the
American army 15th June, 1775. Commission resigned at Annapolis 23rd
Dec., 1783. Victorious at Trenton 25th Dec., 1776; and conquered Lord
Cornwallis at York Town Oct., 1781. President of the United States 4th
March, 1789. Retired to Mount Vernon 4th March, 1797, and died as
above." It cost half a million dollars. Home and to-bed, tired as
usual.--Population, 125,000.
_Wednesday_ morning, the 18th Sept.--Satisfied myself about business,
which appears to be in a thriving state. I then visited the Catholic
Cathedral, which cost 300,000 dollars; St. Paul's Church; and several
other public buildings; the City Fountain, which supplies the town
plentifully with spring water; the Battle Monument, erected to the
memory of those who fell in the defence of Baltimore in 1814--James
Madison president at the time. Gen. Jackson conquered Sir Henry
Pakenham at New Orleans in the same year. Jackson was president in 1832,
and re-elected. This battle took place in the 39th year of Independence.
General Ross was killed in 1816, at North Point battle, after bombarding
Fort M'Henry. The army in the United States is only 6000, commanded by
Major-Gen. Scott. The President is the nominal Commander-in-chief. We
visited the Race-course, and saw a couple of bad races: it is a
burlesque after England. After dinner we proceeded per rail to
Washington City, through Delaware, another slave state; but am happy to
say both this and Maryland are wearing out--that is, they will soon be
free. The market-price in these two states is, for men, from 5 to 10
dollars; and women about half the price. The contrast is great between
the States and England in regard to windows. Here they cram as many
windows into a house as it will hold, as there is no duty or tax upon
anything but business or real property--very wise and just tax. Retired,
at Brown's Hotel, Washington, at ten, used up, as usual, with the heat.
THE CAPITOL.
_Thursday._--Rose early, much refreshed--as I forgot to mention that,
although our beds at Baltimore were entirely covered with net, I was
afraid I should have been eaten alive with mosquitoes. Washington is
called a capital, having a portion taken from Virginia and Maryland for
the senators' use. It is a long straggling town, with very wide streets;
called by some the city of magnificent distances, but, more properly
speaking, it might be called the city of magnificent intentions. It is
located in the district of Colombia--a territory of ten miles square,
formed into a separate and detached jurisdiction by the constitution of
the United States. The city was laid out by General Washington, and
Congress took up its abode there in 1800. The Capitol is situated in an
area of twenty-two and a half acres; is a splendid building, on an
eminence close to the Potomac river. The Hall of Representatives is in
the second story of the south wing, and is of the form of the ancient
Grecian theatre. There are twenty-four columns of variegated native
marble from the banks of the Potomac. There is a splendid portrait of
Lafayette, and another of Washington, by Vanderlyn. Their present
speaker is Mr. White--elected the same as ours. The rotunda is very
imposing. In its centre stands the great statue, by Greenough, of
Washington; and around the walls are the various pictures ordered by
Congress--"The Declaration of Independence," "The Surrender at
Saratoga," "The Surrender and Capitulation at York Town," and
"Washington resigning his Sword at Annapolis," all by Trumbull. I was
much struck with Chapman's great picture of "The Baptism of the Indian
Princess Pocahontas, before her Marriage with Rolph, the Englishman."
The Vice-President of the United States presides in the Senate-house:
his salary is only 5000 dollars, and the President's 25,000 dollars. In
the library are portraits of Tyler, Adams, Jefferson, Washington,
Madison, Munro, and Peyton; also Randolph, the first president in 1774
and 1775, and Hancock, the second. Congress meets on the 1st December,
and sits till June. Representatives are paid two dollars a-day. The
rotunda has been the inaugural scene of General Jackson, Van Buren, and
General Harrison. It was here Lawrence, the maniac, attempted the life
of General Jackson. The statuary in the rotunda is, "William Penn's
Treaty with the Indians:" he is in the act of delivering the treaty to a
couple of chiefs. There is "The Indian Princess Pocahontas rescuing
Capt. Smith from the Indians." There is "Boone's Combat with the
Indians;" and over the eastern door is represented "The Landing of the
Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth." They were persecuted in England, and fled
to New England, amongst wild savages, enemies to civilization and
Christianity. The Puritans landed at Plymouth (Massachusetts), and
commenced the first English settlement. The Capitol cost 3,000,000
dollars. There are fifty-two senators, and twenty-two representatives.
The President's house is in the western part of the city; and stands on
a plot of twenty acres, forty-four feet above the Potomac. It is 170
feet front, and eighty-six deep; built of freestone, with Ionic
pilasters. It was shown to us by one Martin Renehan, an Irishman; and as
the President was absent, we visited all the rooms, which were meanly
furnished--indeed, carpets and chair-bottoms worn out; a common pine
dining-table, which the Prince de Joinville, Lord Ashburton, Lord
Morpeth, Mr. Fox, and Mr. Pakenham, our present minister, with others,
to the number of forty-four (they never have more), dined off. My house
is much better furnished; and the President only keeps eighteen
servants, including master of the household, &c. The private
drawing-room is the best, but that is bad. We saw the bed General
Harrison died in. We visited the Treasury department: this is a noble
structure, 457 feet in length, and after the architecture of the temple
of Minerva, at Athens. There are 250 rooms. It is adjoining the
department of state. The Post-office is of the Corinthian style, marble
front. The plan is a parallelogram, 204 feet in extent, and sixty-five
wide. The Patent-office is 280 feet in length, and seventy in depth,
where patents are taken out at the cost of 30 dollars. We saw one that
astonished us not a little--a machine for making railways, called a
Pile-driver, which makes a railway over a lake, swamp, or forest, and
finishes it straight away. It is in operation in the southern states,
and found to answer, at one-tenth the cost in England. It is so
incredible, I will not describe it. There is another, called the
Excavator, that bores through hills, &c. and quickens the work fiftyfold
to manual labour. Both these are worked by steam, and the most
incredible inventions I ever saw. Otis is the inventor of the latter.
There is also a screw-patent in operation in Rhode Island. In the
spacious room above are preserved Washington's equipments in war-time.
They are uncostly, plain, and humble, showing the unostentatious mind of
the great man. Here are all the presents from different courts: members
of the United States Government are not allowed to keep them. There is a
costly diamond snuffbox from the Emperor of Russia; and a large bottle
of pure attar of roses, three times the price of gold. There are
portraits of Gortez, conqueror of Mexico in 1521; of Columbus, the
discoverer of America; of Cuvier, the French naturalist; and one I was
much struck with, by Spagnoletti, of Job and his three friends (see Job
xiv.): also one of Wat Tyler!
We visited the old departments of Government, State, War, and General
Government. The rooms of the various secretaries are furnished plainly.
We were disappointed at the Navy Yard--no appearance like England. The
first object introduced was a piece of cannon taken from the English
fleet when Sir George Cockburn came up the Potomac. The sight of this
gave me a chill, as it was the first time I had ever seen England's arms
in other powers' possession. The name of Sir George Cockburn is hated,
as he would have destroyed recklessly, had not Ross, a Fifeshire man,
restrained him. Ross's memory is as much loved as the other's is hated.
This was in 1814. On the left is the house of the commandant of the
yard--a captain in the navy. They make anchors, blocks, and tackle of
all sorts for ships' use. There are several hundred men usually employed
at the yard. Several first-rate vessels have been built here. They told
us that they sunk several of their vessels here when they heard of their
defeat at Bladensburg; but I guess it was the English that sunk them.
There are many more sights, but our time would not allow us to tarry.
I had much wished to have gone down to Charlestown, and then into the
far West; but the contemplation of slavery, the pain of living in the
constant intercourse with slave servants, and the awfully hot weather,
which might have caused me to take the fever--added to all, my great
anxiety to receive letters from England--particularly from my wife,
from whom I had now been absent five weeks without hearing--the
pleasures of memory having almost kindled into the charming
reminiscences of my first love--decided me to take my course North
again; and I must acknowledge I left Washington with regret, and the
contemplation that, ere many years roll over, it will be a magnificent
city. I may here remark there is a telegraph, or galvanic power, fixed
between the Capitol and Baltimore, that takes the news forty miles in a
second. This is a good line of single rails, which they all are. At
Baltimore we took steam up the Pennsylvanian states to Frenchtown--about
sixty miles; and thence rail twenty miles to Newcastle; thence steam up
the Delaware to Philadelphia; thence rail to Amboy, through Burlington,
Bordingtown, and Hidestown. Amboy is only five miles from the Atlantic,
where we came in from England. We came up Staten Island Sound, with New
Jersey on the left, and passed Elizabeth Port and Payrosville, and saw
Newark and the Pacific river about eight miles in the distance: then
passed the Narrows, Governor's Island, Ellis and Gibbet Islands, and
arrived at the Battery at seven, after travelling 400 miles in
twenty-seven hours. Received my letters at the Astor, and was pleased
with their news: retired to rest very tired, after my companion had read
two chapters in the Bible to me, which has been our custom since we
came together.