obvious, when it is recollected, that the landing of the materials has
been considered one of the most nice and difficult parts of seamanship,
and on which the best informed seamen were unable to say how it might
answer, without great risk to the crew, and damage to the stones, and
even occasionally losing them between the ship and the praam-boat.
Both vessels being afloat, and riding in the open sea, at the distance
of about a quarter of a mile from the Bell Rock, their motion was
instantly communicated to the landing-gaff, and so to the stone in the
tackle. The six blocks of granite having been placed upon the praam’s
deck, she was towed to a floating-buoy, where she was made fast, until
the proper time of tide, for taking her into one of the creeks of the
rock.
[Sidenote: Stones first landed on the Rock.]
At a quarter past 4 P. M., the boats, with the artificers, left the
floating-light, and the work of the evening tide commenced at a quarter
before 5. The sailors having previously decorated the ships and the
praam-boat with flags, she was towed to the rock by two boats. The
writer having resolved personally to attend the whole progress of
this experiment went on board of the praam-boat, when she entered
the eastern creek, where the foreman builder, at the head of the
artificers, gave three hearty cheers. As the praam had not water to
float her so far up the creek as the site of the building, her cargo
was delivered upon Smith’s Ledge, on the north side of this creek, as
marked on Plate VI. In the present unprepared state of the machinery
and implements upon the rock, the stones, in the present case, were
raised with pinches, and pushed ashore upon planks. The whole of this
experiment succeeded to the writer’s utmost expectation, who was thus
led to conclude, that the materials might be landed with much more
expedition and certainty than he had previously supposed. All hands
spontaneously collected to witness the landing of the first stone,
which had no sooner touched the rock, than other three cheers were
given, and, on this occasion, a glass of rum was served out by the
steward. Having continued two hours upon the rock this evening, the
artificers left it at 7, and returned to the floating-light, while the
landing-master’s crew towed the praam-boat off to the Smeaton, that she
might be taken to Arbroath, having completed all that was intended with
her, this season.
[Sidenote: 1807, September.]
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2d.]
[Sidenote: First mode of attaching the vessels to their moorings.]
The floating-light’s bell rung this morning at half-past 4 o’clock, as
a signal for the boats to be got ready, and the landing took place at
half-past 5. In passing the Smeaton, at her moorings near the rock,
her boat followed with eight additional artificers who had come from
Arbroath with her at last trip, but there being no room for them in
the floating-light’s boats, they had continued on board. The weather
did not look very promising in the morning, the wind blowing pretty
fresh from W.SW.; and had it not been that the writer calculated
upon having a vessel so much at command, in all probability he would
not have ventured to land. The Smeaton rode at what sailors call a
_salvagee_, with a cross-head made fast to the floating-buoy. This
kind of attachment was found to be more convenient, than the mode of
passing the hawser through the ring of the buoy, when the vessel was to
be made fast. She had then only to be steered very close to the buoy,
when the salvagee was laid hold of with a boat-hook, and the _bite_ of
the hawser thrown over the cross-head, instead of being obliged to put
out the boat, in order to pass the rope through the ring of the buoy.
But the salvagee, by this method, was always left at the buoy, and was,
of course, more liable to chaff and wear than a hawser passed through
the ring, which could be wattled with canvas, and shifted at pleasure.
The salvagee and cross method is, however, much practised; but the
experience of this morning showed it to be very unsuitable for vessels
riding in an exposed situation, for any length of time.
[Sidenote: Smeaton breaks adrift from her moorings.]
Soon after the artificers landed, they commenced work; but the wind
coming to blow hard, the Smeaton’s boat and crew, who had brought their
complement of eight men to the rock, went off to examine her riding
ropes, and see that they were in proper order. The boat had no sooner
reached the vessel than she went adrift, carrying the boat along with
her, and both had even got to a considerable distance before this
situation of things was observed, every one being so intent upon his
own particular duty, that the boat had not been seen leaving the rock.
As it blew hard, the crew with much difficulty set the mainsail upon
the Smeaton, with a view to work her up to the buoy, and again lay hold
of the moorings. By the time that she was got round to make a tack
towards the rock, she had drifted at least three miles to leeward, with
the praam-boat astern; and having both the wind and a tide against
her, the writer perceived, with no little anxiety, that she could not
possibly return to the rock till long after its being overflowed; for,
owing to the anomaly of the tides formerly noticed, the Bell Rock is
completely under water before the ebb abates to the offing.
[Sidenote: Perilous situation of those left on the Rock.]
In this perilous predicament, indeed, he found himself placed between
hope and despair,--but certainly the latter was by much the most
predominant feeling of his mind,--situate upon a sunken rock in the
middle of the ocean, which, in the progress of the flood-tide, was to
be laid under water to the depth of at least twelve feet in a stormy
sea. There were this morning thirty-two persons in all upon the rock,
with only two boats, whose complement, even in good weather, did not
exceed twenty-four sitters; but, to row to the floating-light with so
much wind, and in so heavy a sea, a complement of eight men for each
boat, was as much as could, with propriety, be attempted, so that,
in this way, about one-half of our number was unprovided for. Under
these circumstances, had the writer ventured to dispatch one of the
boats in expectation of either working the Smeaton sooner up towards
the rock, or in hopes of getting her boat brought to our assistance,
this must have given an immediate alarm to the artificers, each of
whom would have insisted upon taking to his own boat, and leaving the
eight artificers belonging to the Smeaton to their chance. Of course, a
scuffle might have ensued, and it is hard to say, in the ardour of men
contending for life, where it might have ended. It has even been hinted
to the writer, that a party of the _pickmen_ were determined to keep
exclusively to their own boat against all hazards.
The unfortunate circumstance of the Smeaton and her boat having
drifted, was, for a considerable time, only known to the writer, and
to the landing-master, who removed to the farther point of the rock,
where he kept his eye steadily upon the progress of the vessel. While
the artificers were at work, chiefly in sitting or kneeling postures,
excavating the rock, or boring with the jumpers, and while their
numerous hammers, and the sound of the smith’s anvil continued, the
situation of things did not appear so awful. In this state of suspense,
with almost certain destruction at hand, the water began to rise upon
those who were at work on the lower parts of the sites of the Beacon
and Light-house. From the run of sea upon the rock, the forge fire
was also sooner extinguished this morning than usual, and the volumes
of smoke having ceased, objects in every direction became visible
from all parts of the rock. After having had about three hours work,
the men began, pretty generally, to make towards their respective
boats for their jackets and stockings, when, to their astonishment,
instead of three, they found only two boats, the third being adrift
with the Smeaton. Not a word was uttered by any one, but all appeared
to be silently calculating their numbers, and looking to each other
with evident marks of perplexity depicted in their countenances. The
landing-master, conceiving that blame might be attached to him for
allowing the boat to leave the rock, still kept at a distance. At
this critical moment, the author was standing upon an elevated part
of Smith’s Ledge, where he endeavoured to mark the progress of the
Smeaton, not a little surprised that her crew did not cut the praam
adrift, which greatly retarded her way, and amazed that some effort
was not making to bring at least the boat, and attempt our relief. The
workmen looked steadfastly upon the writer, and turned occasionally
towards the vessel, still far to leeward. All this passed in the most
perfect silence, and the melancholy solemnity of the group made an
impression never to be effaced from his mind.
[Sidenote: Pilot boat accidentally comes to our relief.]
The writer had all along been considering of various
schemes,--providing the men could be kept under command,--which might
be put in practice for the general safety, in hopes that the Smeaton
might be able to pick up the boats to leeward, when they were obliged
to leave the rock. He was, accordingly, about to address the artificers
on the perilous nature of their circumstances, and to propose, That
all hands should unstrip their upper clothing, when the higher parts
of the rock were laid under water; that the seamen should remove every
unnecessary weight and encumbrance from the boats; that a specified
number of men should go into each boat, and that the remainder should
hang by the gunwales, while the boats were to be rowed gently towards
the Smeaton, as the course to the Pharos or floating-light lay rather
to windward of the rock. But when he attempted to speak, his mouth
was so parched, that his tongue refused utterance, and he now learned
by experience that the saliva is as necessary as the tongue itself
for speech. He then turned to one of the pools on the rock and lapped
a little water, which produced immediate relief. But what was his
happiness, when, on rising from this unpleasant beverage, some one
called out “A boat, a boat!” and, on looking around, at no great
distance, a large boat was seen through the haze making towards the
rock. This at once enlivened and rejoiced every heart. The timeous
visitor proved to be James Spink, the Bell Rock pilot, who had come
express from Arbroath with letters. Spink had, for some time, seen the
Smeaton, and had even supposed, from the state of the weather, that
all hands were on board of her, till he approached more nearly, and
observed people upon the rock; but not supposing that the assistance
of his boat was necessary to carry the artificers off the rock, he
anchored on the lee-side and began to fish, waiting, as usual, till the
letters were sent for, as the pilot-boat was too large and unwieldy
for approaching the rock, when there was any roughness or run of the
sea at the entrance of the landing creeks.
[Sidenote: The boats have a rough passage from the rock.]
Upon this fortunate change of circumstances, sixteen of the artificers
were sent, at two trips, in one of the boats, with instructions
for Spink to proceed with them to the floating-light. This being
accomplished, the remaining sixteen followed in the two boats belonging
to the service of the rock. Every one felt the most perfect happiness
at leaving the Bell Rock this morning, though a very hard and even
dangerous passage to the floating-light still awaited us, as the wind,
by this time, had encreased to a pretty hard gale, accompanied with a
considerable swell of sea. The boats left the rock about 9, but did not
reach the vessel till 12 o’clock noon, after a most disagreeable and
fatiguing passage of three hours. Every one was as completely drenched
in water as if he had been dragged astern of the boats. The writer in
particular, being at the helm, found, on getting on board, that his
face and ears were completely coated with a thin film of salt from the
sea spray, which broke constantly over the bows of the boat. After much
baling of water and severe work at the oars, the three boats reached
the floating-light, where some new difficulties occurred in getting on
board in safety, owing partly to the exhausted state of the men, and
partly to the violent rolling of the vessel.
[Sidenote: Smeaton bears away for Arbroath.]
As the tide flowed, it was expected that the Smeaton would have got
to windward, but, seeing that all was safe, after tacking for several
hours, and making little progress, she bore away for Arbroath, with
the praam boat. As there was now too much wind for the pilot-boat to
return to Arbroath, she was made fast astern of the floating-light, and
the crew remained on board till next day, when the weather moderated.
There can be very little doubt, that the appearance of James Spink
with his boat, on this critical occasion, was the means of preventing
the loss of lives at the rock this morning. When these circumstances,
some years afterwards, came to the knowledge of the Board, a small
pension was ordered to our faithful pilot, then in his seventieth year;
and he still continues to wear the uniform clothes and badge of the
Light-house service.
[Sidenote: Indispensable utility of the Beacon-house.]
The experience of this day’s hard passage to the floating-light
strongly impressed the writer with the inconveniency and danger
arising from the want of a proper tender, which could be cast loose
at pleasure, and brought to the lee-side of the rock, and could, at
all times, be moored nearer than it would have been safe or proper to
have risked a vessel of the description of the floating-light. Another
circumstance, no less deeply interesting to the safety of those on the
rock, was the erection of the beacon-house, as a place of refuge in
cases like the present. Here the writer could not help congratulating
himself not only upon the near prospect of completing this work, but
also on the perseverance with which he had maintained the indispensable
necessity of the erection of the beacon. He was aware of the well
grounded fears for the safety of all concerned, in the event of its
being washed away by the sea; but, without such an erection on the Bell
Rock, it is impossible to describe the continual hazard which must have
attended the undertaking, or to determine the period when works so
peculiarly situate, and especially so low in the water, might have been
brought to a conclusion.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: Eighteen of the artificers decline embarking for the rock.]
[Sidenote: The boats proceed with eight.]
The bell rung this morning at 5 o’clock, but the writer must
acknowledge, from the circumstances of yesterday, that its sound was
extremely unwelcome. This appears also to have been the feelings of the
artificers, for when they came to be mustered, out of twenty-six, only
eight, besides the foreman and seamen, appeared upon deck, to accompany
the writer to the rock. Such are the baneful effects of any thing like
misfortune or accident connected with a work of this description. The
use of argument to persuade the men to embark, in cases of this kind,
would have been out of place, as it is not only discomfort, or even
the risk of the loss of a limb, but life itself, that becomes the
question. The boats, notwithstanding the thinness of our ranks, left
the vessel at half-past 5. The rough weather of yesterday having proved
but a summer’s gale, the wind came to-day in gentle breezes, yet the
atmosphere being cloudy, it had not a very favourable appearance. The
boats reached the rock at 6 A. M., and the eight artificers who landed,
were employed in clearing out the bat-holes for the beacon-house, and
had a very prosperous tide of four hours work, being the longest yet
experienced by half an hour.
The boats left the rock again at 10 o’clock, and the weather having
cleared up as we drew near the vessel, the eighteen artificers who
had remained on board were observed upon deck; but as the boats
approached, they sought their way below, being quite ashamed of their
conduct. This was the only instance of refusal to go to the rock which
occurred during the whole progress of the work, excepting that of the
four men who declined working upon Sunday, a case which the writer
did not conceive to be at all analogous to the present. It may here
be mentioned, much to the credit of these four men, that they stood
foremost in embarking for the rock this morning. Indeed, it seemed
quite evident, that the backwardness of the artificers to-day arose
from certain doubting expressions about the state of the weather, made
through the inadvertency of some of the nautical people on board, in
allusion to the state of the weather of yesterday.
A second landing was made in the evening tide, at a quarter past 6,
with twenty of the artificers, six having been left on board for want
of sitting-room in the boats; but as the work was not carried on with
torch-light, till after the erection of the beacon-house, the boats
left the rock again at a quarter past 7, the men having been employed
chiefly at the bat-holes of the beacon-house.
[Sidenote: Friday, 4th.]
All hands, twenty-six in number, landed this morning, having been
assisted by the Smeaton’s boat, as she had again returned from Arbroath
to her moorings at the rock. After three hours’ work, the boats
returned to the Pharos at a quarter past 10, leaving eight hands on
board the Smeaton, as formerly, which preserved a convenient complement
of sitters in the other two boats.
[Sidenote: Captain Pool’s account of the drifting of the Smeaton.]
From the late accident of the Smeaton’s drifting, precautionary
measures were taken to impress upon Captain Pool, and his mate Mr
Macurich, that their ship was not once to be put in competition with
the safety of the people on the rock. Orders were also more strictly
enforced upon the landing-master, that on no occasion whatever should
the boats attending the rock be permitted to leave it, without
carrying along with them the complement of men which they respectively
brought to the rock. Upon examining the master of the Smeaton as to
the circumstances of his vessel breaking adrift, it appeared that the
salvagee had been chaffed, and that it had given way by the excessive
motion of the vessel. Being also examined as to his intentions with
regard to the people left on the rock on the 2d instant, he stated,
that, when tacking the ship, he had seen the Pilot-boat a considerable
time before it was likely that she could be seen at the rock; and that
he was just about to cut the praam adrift, when he got sight of the
boat. After setting sail on the Smeaton, his intentions were to try a
tack or two, to see if she gained to windward, but if, on trial, she
appeared to lose way, his intentions were to lash the helm to leeward,
and leaving the boy on board of the vessel, he was to man the boat
and make towards our relief. Captain Pool, in concluding his account
of this matter, added, that “both ship and praam should have gone to
the d----l, rather than that the people upon the rock should have been
left to perish.” But he stated, that he was in much confusion for
a time;--indeed, until he got sight of the pilot boat, that he was
almost in a state of distraction, he and his ship’s company being in
a continual wrangle about what was best to be done in so critical a
situation. This accident put an end to the mode of riding at the Bell
Rock floating buoys by a salvagee and cross-head, the hawser being in
future passed through the ring of the buoy, and the end of it taken on
board of the vessel; which was found to be much more safe, though not
quite so expeditious as the other.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.]
The wind having shifted to N.NW., the weather had a favourable
appearance this morning. But on landing at the rock at 7 A. M., there
was a considerable swell from the eastward, so that the boats had some
difficulty in approaching the eastern creek. The artificers, however,
had a most excellent tide’s work, having continued four hours at work,
or till 11 o’clock. The boring and preparations for the Beacon-house
being nearly completed, only twelve of the artificers were employed at
this work, while fourteen were excavating and preparing the site of the
Light-house.
[Sidenote: Ascertain the comparative level of the site of the building.]
This being the third day after new moon, it was estimated the lowest
ebb of the present spring-tides. The writer therefore caused a part
of the site of the building to be reduced to what he considered a
medium level of the whole. This he compared with low water-mark, as
noted by the landing-master, at the moment when the tide ceased to
ebb and began to flow. An assistant with a rod having been stationed
at low water-mark previously determined, another was placed at the
spot ascertained to be the medium level of the site of the building;
a spirit-level was then set at a convenient position between these
upright rods, when the writer found that the medium height of the
site of the building, in the present rough and irregular state of
its surface, was about three feet three inches above low water-mark
of spring tides. By further observation, it was also found, that
the highest part of the foundation of the building, in its present
unprepared state, was six feet above low water-mark. This highest
part consisted of a large rounded mass, which declined gradually on
all sides, excepting on the north-east, where it was more abrupt. The
writer had originally some thought of taking advantage of this part of
the rock, by connecting it, after Mr Smeaton’s plan, with the lower
courses of the building. But after working for some time, with this
object in view, it was found to contain several large fissures, which
rendered it more advisable to clear away the whole, and reduce the site
of the building to a uniform level.
[Sidenote: Full complement of Floating Buoys moored.]
Finding it impossible, with any degree of safety, to carry to the
floating-light, in the two boats belonging to this ship, more than
eighteen artificers, and four seamen, together with the landing-master,
the foreman and the writer, eight of the present complement of men
were lodged on board of the Smeaton, and when she went to Arbroath for
water and fuel, they necessarily accompanied her. Before sailing, she
laid down a fourth mushroom-anchor, and mooring-chain, with a floating
buoy, for the use of the praam-boat. It was not at all likely that
there would be much use for so many sets of moorings for the operations
of this season; but it was desirable to have the probable number laid
down that might ultimately be required for the works, in order that
the fitness of their respective situations might be ascertained,
before they came to be wanted for the purposes of the building. This
last buoy was laid down in four fathoms water, with twelve fathoms of
chain, at the distance of about ninety fathoms, in a N.E. direction
from the rock. The other three buoys were respectively moored at
greater distances from the rock, in depths varying from seven to eleven
fathoms, the mushroom anchors lying on a hard rocky bottom.
[Sidenote: Floating-Light rides out a heavy gale of wind.]
As before noticed, the work could not be carried on by torch-light with
any degree of safety, till the Beacon was erected, and the tide fell
rather late for landing this evening. Although the weather would have
admitted of this, yet the swell of the sea, observable in the morning,
still continued to increase. It was so far fortunate that a landing was
not attempted, for at 8 o’clock the wind shifted to E. SE. and at 10
it had become a hard gale, when fifty fathoms of the floating-light’s
hempen cable were veered out. The gale still increasing, the ship
rolled and laboured excessively, and at midnight eighty fathoms of
cable were veered out; while the sea continued to strike the vessel
with a degree of force which had not before been experienced.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.]
During the last night there was little rest on board of the Pharos,
and day-light, though anxiously wished for, brought no relief, as the
gale continued with unabated violence. The sea struck so hard upon
the vessel’s bows, that it rose in great quantities, or in “green
seas,” as the sailors termed it, which were carried by the wind as
far aft as the quarter-deck, and not unfrequently over the stern of
the ship altogether. It fell occasionally so heavily on the skylight
of the writer’s cabin, though so far aft as to be within five feet of
the helm, that the glass was broken to pieces before the dead-light
could be got into its place, so that the water poured down in great
quantities. In shutting out the water, the admission of light was
prevented, and in the morning all continued in the most comfortless
state of darkness. About 10 o’clock A. M., the wind shifted to NE., and
blew, if possible, harder than before, and it was accompanied by a much
heavier swell of sea; when it was judged advisable to give the ship
more cable. In the course of the gale, the part of the cable in the
hause-hole had been so often shifted, that nearly the whole length of
one of her hempen cables, of 120 fathoms, had been veered out, besides
the chain-moorings. The cable for its preservation, was also carefully
served or wattled with pieces of canvass round the windlass, and with
leather well greased in the hause-hole. In this state things remained
during the whole day. Every sea which struck the vessel,--and the seas
followed each other in close succession,--causing her to shake, and
all on board occasionally to tremble. At each of these strokes of the
sea, the rolling and pitching of the vessel ceased for a time, and her
motion was felt as if she had either broke adrift before the wind, or
were in the act of sinking; but when another sea came, she ranged up
against it with great force, and this became the regular intimation of
our being still riding at anchor.
[Sidenote: State of the vessel during the gale.]
About 11 o’clock, the writer, with some difficulty, got out of bed,
but in attempting to dress, he was thrown twice upon the floor, at the
opposite side of the cabin. In an undressed state, he made shift to get
about half way up the companion-stairs, with an intention to observe
the state of the sea and of the ship upon deck, but he no sooner looked
over the companion, than a heavy sea struck the vessel, which fell on
the quarter-deck, and rushed down stairs into the officers’ cabin,
in so considerable a quantity, that it was found necessary to lift
one of the scuttles in the floor, to let the water into the limbers
of the ship, as it dashed from side to side in such a manner, as to
run into the lower tier of beds. Having been foiled in this attempt,
and being completely wetted, he again, got below and went to bed. In
this state of the weather the seamen had to move about the necessary
or indispensable duties of the ship, with the most cautious use both
of hands and feet, while it required all the art of the landsman to
keep within the precincts of his bed. The writer even found himself so
much tossed about, that it became necessary, in some measure, to shut
himself in bed, in order to avoid being thrown into the floor. Indeed,
such was the motion of the ship, that it seemed wholly impracticable
to remain in any other than a lying posture. On deck the most stormy
aspect presented itself; while below all was wet and comfortless.
About 2 o’clock P. M., a great alarm was given throughout the ship,
from the effects of a very heavy sea which struck her, and almost
filled the waist, pouring down into the births below, through every
chink and crevice of the hatches and sky-lights. From the motion of the
vessel being thus suddenly deadened or checked, and from the flowing in
of the water above, it is believed there was not an individual on board
who did not think, at the moment, that the vessel had foundered, and
was in the act of sinking. The writer could withstand this no longer,
and as soon as she again began to range to the sea, he determined to
make another effort to get upon deck. In the first instance, however,
he groped his way in darkness from his own cabin through the births of
the officers, where all was quietness. He next entered the galley and
other compartments occupied by the artificers: here also all was shut
up in darkness, the fire having been drowned out in the early part of
the gale: several of the artificers were employed in prayer, repeating
psalms, and other devotional exercises in a full tone of voice: others
protesting, that if they should fortunately get once more on shore,
no one should ever see them afloat again. With the assistance of the
landing-master, the writer made his way holding on step by step, among
the numerous impediments which lay in the way. Such was the creaking
noise of the bulk-heads or partitions, the dashing of the water, and
the whistling noise of the winds, that it was hardly possible to break
in upon such a confusion of sounds. In one or two instances, anxious
and repeated inquiries were made by the artificers, as to the state
of things upon deck, to which the Captain made the usual answer, that
it could not blow long in this way, and that we must soon have better
weather. The next birth in succession, moving forward in the ship,
was that allotted for the seamen. Here the scene was considerably
different. Having reached the middle of this darksome birth, without
its inmates being aware of any intrusion, the writer had the
consolation of remarking, that although they talked of bad weather,
and the cross accidents of the sea, yet the conversation was carried
on in that sort of tone and manner which bespoke an ease and composure
of mind, highly creditable to them, and pleasing to him. The writer
immediately accosted the seamen about the state of the ship. To these
inquiries they replied, that the vessel being light, and having but
little hold of the water, no top rigging, with excellent ground-tackle,
and every thing being fresh and new, they felt perfect confidence in
their situation.
It being impossible to open any of the hatches in the fore part of
the ship, in communicating with the deck, the watch was changed by
passing through the several births to the companion-stair leading to
the quarter-deck. The writer, therefore, made the best of his way aft,
and on a second attempt to look out, he succeeded, and saw indeed an
astonishing sight. The seas, or waves, appeared to be ten or fifteen
feet in height of unbroken water, and every approaching billow seemed
as if it would overwhelm our vessel, but she continued to rise upon
the waves, and to fall between the seas in a very wonderful manner. It
seemed to be only those seas which caught her in the act of rising,
which struck her with so much violence, and threw such quantities of
water aft. On deck there was only one solitary individual looking out,
to give the alarm, in the event of the ship breaking from her moorings.
The seaman on watch continued only two hours; he who kept watch at this
time, was a tall slender man of a black complexion; he had no great
coat nor over-all of any kind, but was simply dressed in his ordinary
jacket and trowsers: his hat was tied under his chin with a napkin,
and he stood aft the foremast, to which he had lashed himself with a
gasket or small rope round his waist, to prevent his falling upon deck,
or being washed overboard. When the writer looked up, he appeared to
smile, which afforded a farther symptom of the confidence of the crew
in their ship. This person on the watch was as completely wetted as if
he had been drawn through the sea, which was given as a reason for his
not putting on a great coat, that he might wet as few of his clothes
as possible, and have a dry shift when he went below. Upon deck, every
thing that was moveable was out of sight, having either been stowed
below, previous to the gale, or been washed overboard. Some trifling
parts of the quarter boards were damaged by the breach of the sea; and
one of the boats upon deck was about one-third full of water, the
oyle-hole or drain having been accidentally stopped up,--and part of
her gunwale had received considerable injury. These observations were
hastily made, and not without occasionally shutting the companion, or
covering up the stair-case, to avoid being wetted by the successive
seas which broke over the bows, and fell upon different parts of the
deck, according to the impetus with which the waves struck the vessel.
By this time it was about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and the gale,
which had now continued with unabated force for 27 hours, had not the
least appearance of going off.
[Sidenote: Consultation about the probable event of her breaking
adrift.]
In the dismal prospect of undergoing another night like the last, and
being in imminent hazard of parting from our cable, the writer thought
it necessary to advise with the master and officers of the ship as to
the probable event of the vessel’s drifting from her moorings. They
severally gave it as their opinion, that we had now every chance of
riding out the gale, which, in all probability, could not continue with
the same fury many hours longer; and that even if she should part from
her anchor, the storm-sails had been laid to hand, and could be bent in
a very short time. They further stated, that from the direction of the
wind being NE., she would sail up the Firth of Forth to Leith Roads.
But if this should appear doubtful, after passing the Island and Light
of May, it might be advisable at once to steer for Tyningham Sands,
on the western side of Dunbar, and there run the vessel ashore. If
this should happen at the time of high-water, or during the ebbing of
the tide, they were of opinion, from the flatness and strength of the
floating-light, that no danger would attend her taking the ground, even
with a very heavy sea. The writer seeing the confidence which these
gentlemen possessed with regard to the situation of things, and their
knowledge and ability, should the ship break adrift, found himself as
much relieved with this conversation, as he had previously been with
the seeming indifference of the forecastle-men, and the smile of the
watch upon deck, though literally lashed to the foremast. From this
time he felt himself almost perfectly at ease; at any rate he was
entirely resigned to the ultimate result.
[Sidenote: The gale takes off.]
About 6 o’clock in the evening, the ship’s company was heard moving
upon deck, which, on the present occasion, was rather the cause of
alarm. The writer accordingly rung his bell to know what was the
matter, when he was informed by the steward, that the weather looked
considerably better, and that the men upon deck were endeavouring to
ship the smoke-funnel of the galley, that the people might get some
meat. This was a more favourable account than had been anticipated.
During the last twenty-one hours he himself had not only had nothing to
eat, but he had almost never passed a thought on the subject. Upon the
mention of a change of weather, he sent the steward to learn how the
artificers felt, and on his return he stated that they now seemed to be
all very happy, since the cook had begun to light the galley-fire, and
make preparations for the suet-pudding of Sunday, which was the only
dish to be attempted for the mess, from the ease with which it could
both be cooked and served up.
The principal change felt upon the ship, as the wind abated, was her
increased rolling motion, but the pitching was much diminished, and
now hardly any sea came farther aft than the foremast; but she rolled
so extremely hard, as frequently to dip and take in water over the
gunwales and rails in the waist, though, as before noticed, she was
in light ballast trim. By 9 o’clock, all hands had been refreshed by
the exertions of the cook and steward, and were happy in the prospect
of the worst of the gale being over. The usual complement of men was
also now set on watch, and more quietness was experienced throughout
the ship. Although the previous night had been a very restless one,
it had not the effect of inducing repose in the writer’s birth on the
succeeding night, for having been so much tossed about in bed, during
the last thirty hours, he found no easy spot to turn to, and his body
was all sore to the touch, which ill accorded with the unyielding
materials with which his bed-place was surrounded.
[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.]
[Sidenote: Appearance of the sea upon the Bell Rock.]
This morning about 8 o’clock, the writer was agreeably surprised to
see the scuttle of his cabin sky-light removed, and the bright rays
of the sun admitted. Although the ship continued to roll excessively,
and the sea was still running very high, yet the ordinary business on
board seemed to be going forward on deck. It was impossible to steady
a telescope, so as to look minutely at the progress of the waves, and
trace their breach upon the Bell Rock, but the height to which the
cross-running waves rose in sprays, when they met each other, was
truly grand, and the continued roar and noise of the sea was very
perceptible to the ear. To estimate the height of the sprays at forty
or fifty feet, would surely be within the mark. Those of the workmen
who were not much afflicted with sea-sickness, came upon deck, and
the wetness below being dried up, the cabins were again brought into a
habitable state. Every one seemed to meet as if after a long absence,
congratulating his neighbour upon the return of good weather. Little
could be said as to the comfort of the vessel, but after riding out
such a gale, no one felt the least doubt or hesitation as to the safety
and good condition of her moorings. The master and mate were extremely
anxious, however, to heave in the hempen cable, and see the state of
the clinch or iron ring of the chain-cable. But the vessel rolled at
such a rate, that the seamen could not possibly keep their feet at the
windlass, nor work the hand-spokes, though it had been several times
attempted since the gale took off.
[Sidenote: Floating-Light breaks adrift.]
About 12 noon, however, the vessel’s motion was observed to be
considerably less, and the sailors were enabled to walk upon deck with
some degree of freedom. But, to the astonishment of every one, it was
soon discovered that the floating-light was adrift! The windlass was
instantly manned, and the men soon gave out that there was no strain
upon the cable. The mizzen sail, which was bent for the occasional
purpose of making the vessel ride more easily to the tide, was
immediately set, and the other sails were also hoisted in a short time,
when, in no small consternation, we bore away, about one mile to the
south-westward of the former station, and there let go the best bower
anchor and cable in twenty fathoms water, to ride until the swell of
the sea should fall, when it might be practicable to grapple for the
moorings, and find a better anchorage for the ship.
[Sidenote: Cable supposed to have been cut by a piece of wreck.]
As soon as the deck could be cleared, the cable-end was hove up,
which had parted at the distance of about fifty fathoms from the
chain-moorings. On examining the cable, it was found to be considerably
chafed, but where the separation took place, it appeared to be
worn through, or cut shortly off. How to account for this would be
difficult, as the ground, though rough and gravelly, did not, after
much sounding, appear to contain any irregular parts. It was therefore
conjectured, that the cable must have hooked some piece of wreck, as it
did not appear, from the state of the wind and tide, that the vessel
could have _fouled_ her anchor, when she veered round with the wind,
which had shifted, in the course of the night, from NE. to N.NW. Be
this as it may, it was a circumstance quite out of the power of man to
prevent, as, until the ship drifted, it was found impossible to heave
up the cable. But what ought to have been the feeling of thankfulness
to that Providence which regulates and appoints the lot of man, when
it is considered, that if this accident had happened during the
storm, or in the night after the wind had shifted, the floating-light
must inevitably have gone ashore upon the Bell Rock. In short, it is
hardly possible to conceive any case more awfully distressing than our
situation would have been, or one more disastrous to the important
undertaking in which we were engaged.
In the present untoward state of things, the writer had chiefly to
regret the necessity of making a permanent change in the position of
the moorings of the floating-light, after her station had been publicly
advertised, and within a week of the time of exhibiting the light. It
had also become more evident that this vessel could not be continued
as a tender or store-ship for the work. The object of consideration,
therefore, was to place her in a situation where she would be most
useful to shipping. It was evident that she must now be stationed at
about double her former distance from the rock, or, instead of one
mile, that she must be moored upwards of two miles from it, on ground
formerly ascertained to have been good, but considered too distant from
the operations.
[Sidenote: Difficulty of manning the Floating-light.]
In the evening the Smeaton came off from Arbroath, with provisions and
necessaries for the work. There being little wind, and a heavy swell
in the sea, it was not safe that the vessels should come in contact
with each other. Mr Macurich, the mate, who came within hail, in the
Smeaton’s boat, informed us, that two seamen had come off to make up
the complement of the crew of the floating-light, and that they would
be brought on board the first opportunity. From the manner in which
this address was made, and the enquiry as to how we rode out the gale,
it was evident that the crew of the Smeaton were not aware that the
floating-light had shifted her place; nor, indeed, was this at all
obvious, unless by a particular observation made by the mariner’s
compass, in reference to the position of the rock.
The peculiarity of this service rendered it difficult to procure good
seamen to embark in it, and the original crew dropped off one after
another as the winter season began to advance; for as yet our naval
heroes had not shewn the possibility of remaining for months together,
even off an enemy’s coast. It was therefore found to be an extremely
difficult matter to get the crew of the floating-light recruited from
time to time; and, under the perplexity of our present situation,
it was some alleviation to be told that there were men voluntarily
offering their services.
In the course of this day the wind had veered from N.NW. to NE., but
the weather was mild, and the sea had fallen considerably, so that the
boat came alongside with the two seamen, and a supply of necessaries.
The Smeaton was then dispatched to Arbroath for another set of moorings
for the floating-light, in case of our not finding those from which she
had drifted. Letters were also dispatched to the Light-house Board,
intimating the particulars of the floating-light’s new ground, that
additional notice might be given to shipping.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 9th.]
[Sidenote: Floating-light anchored in her new station.]
The weather continued to be extremely agreeable, though the wind kept
shifting about. Having got every thing in readiness for moving to the
new station, which had again been carefully sounded, the floating-light
was got under way,--which the author had fondly hoped never to have
seen, till after her purpose as a temporary light had been supplied
by a permanent building upon the Bell Rock. At 9 o’clock A. M. the
best bower anchor was let go upon the new ground, in twenty fathoms
water, on clean sand mixed with fine silt or mud, appearing to be the
deposited matters borne along by the currents from the river Tay; the
Bell Rock bearing SE. ½ S. distant about 2½ miles.
[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.]
[Sidenote: It is found impracticable to land to-day.]
The Smeaton returned to Arbroath, after landing her dispatches; but the
wind and the swell of the sea having again increased, she was obliged
to remain in port till the 14th. As the floating-light still rode at
single anchor, it was often an anxious wish to have her once more
properly fixed with chain moorings; but, as yet, no opportunity had
occurred for recovering the old chain, and it took some time to prepare
a new one. The Smeaton having returned from Arbroath this morning, the
writer went on board of her, carrying with him all the artificers. At
6 an attempt was made to land, but the sea ran so heavily, and the
breakers rushed with such fury in every direction, that after rowing
all around the rock, the boats were obliged to return without success.
It deserves remark, however, that this was the first attempt to land
this season, in which it had been found impracticable, after actually
embarking in the boats.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.]
[Sidenote: State of matters at the rock, after a lapse of ten days.]
This morning at 5 A. M., the bell rung as a signal for landing upon
the rock, a sound which, after a lapse of ten days, it is believed was
welcomed by every one on board. There being a heavy breach of sea at
the eastern creek, we landed, though not without difficulty, on the
western side, every one seeming more eager than another to get upon
the rock, and never did hungry men sit down to a hearty meal with more
appetite than the artificers began to pick the dulse from the rocks.
This marine plant had the effect of reviving the sickly, and seemed to
be no less relished by those who were more hardy.
While the water was ebbing, and the men were roaming in quest of their
favourite morsel, the writer was examining the effects of the storm
upon the forge, and loose apparatus left upon the rock. The six large
blocks of granite which had been landed, by way of experiment, on the
1st instant, were now removed from their places, and, by the force of
the sea, thrown over a rising ledge into a hole at the distance of
twelve or fifteen paces from the place on which they had been landed.
This was a pretty good evidence, both of the violence of the storm and
the agitation of the sea upon the rock. The safety of the smith’s forge
was always an object of essential regard. The ash-pan of the hearth
or fire-place, with its weighty cast-iron back, had been washed from
their places of supposed security: the chains of attachment had been
broken, and these ponderous articles were found at a very considerable
distance, in a hole on the western side of the rock; while the tools
and picks of the Aberdeen masons were scattered about in every
direction. It is, however, remarkable, that not a single article was
ultimately lost. A mushroom-anchor, weighing about 22 cwt., had been
driven from its station at some distance, and thrown upon the rock,
being found in one of the landing creeks. The floating-buoy being still
attached to it, had received no material damage, though it had been
chafed and was water-logged. This buoy, with its moorings, consisting
of 24 fathoms of chain, and the anchor, had been given up as lost, ever
since the gale; but just as the boats were about to leave the rock,
they were fortunately observed between two ledges of rock, by one of
the seamen.
[Sidenote: Work, this tide, continues only for one hour.]
After having been two hours and a half upon the rock this morning,
boats left it at a quarter past 8. At half-past 6 P. M., they again
returned; but the smith having fallen into the water in landing, got
the tinder so wetted, that he could not strike fire, and the work was
left off at 7, after one hour’s work, for want of sharp tools.--The
site of the beacon being now prepared, and the stanchion-holes
excavated, the mode of employing the artificers was reversed, only
four being occupied at the beacon works, and twelve in preparing the
foundation of the light-house.
[Sidenote: Floating-light first exhibited.]
This being the night on which the floating-light was advertised to
be lighted, it was accordingly exhibited, to the great joy of every
one. For, besides the benefit to be derived by shipping in general,
from this temporary light, it was also to be of great service to the
operations at the Bell Rock, as it became a point of reference for the
conveniency and safety of the light-house vessels, either in riding at
the buoys, or in cruising about the rock. The event of lighting up this
ship, was, therefore, ushered in with three hearty cheers, and a dram
was served out to all hands.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.]
The weather continuing to be moderate, with gentle breezes from NW. to
N.NE., this morning the work commenced at the rock at half-past 6, and
the boats left it again at a quarter from 9, after the artificers had
been at work two hours and a half.
[Sidenote: Light-house Yacht becomes a Tender to the works.]
The writer was made happy to-day, by the return of the Light-house
Yacht, from a voyage to the Northern Light-houses. She had sailed
from the Bell Rock on the 5th of last month for the Orkneys, and had
passed the Western Islands to the Clyde, returning to the eastern
coast by the Forth and Clyde Canal, after having discharged stores
at the several Light-houses in her track. The arrival of this vessel
was a great relief, as she brought a set of moorings with her for the
floating-light, which still rode at single anchor. Having immediately
removed on board of this fine vessel of eighty-one tons register, the
artificers gladly followed, for, though they found themselves more
pinched for accommodation on board of the Yacht, and still more so in
the Smeaton; yet they greatly preferred either of these to the Pharos
or floating-light, on account of her rolling motion, though in all
respects fitted up for their conveniency.
[Sidenote: Artificers agree to remain at the rock after their
engagement had expired.]
The writer called them to the quarter-deck, and informed them that
having been one month afloat, in terms of their agreement, they
were now at liberty to return to the work-yard at Arbroath, if they
preferred this to continuing at the Bell Rock. But they replied, that,
in the prospect of soon getting the beacon erected upon the rock, and
having made a change from the floating-light, they were now perfectly
reconciled to their situation, and would remain afloat till the end
of the working season. This was considered a matter of the greatest
importance to the success of the work; for, from the circumstances of
the bad weather, and the drifting of the floating-light, it seemed
extremely doubtful but the whole of the workmen might have been induced
to go on shore, which would have deterred others from embarking in
this perilous service, at so advanced a period of the season. At all
events, it must have required no small trouble to have brought a new
set of men to expertness in the minutiæ of the traffic in boats, and
getting in and out of the vessels. Of those who had originally come off
to the work on the 17th of August, only one man, already alluded to,
who was a great martyr to sea-sickness, had returned to the work-yard.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: Accident happens to one of the boats.]
The wind was at NE. this morning, and though there were only light
airs, yet there was a pretty heavy swell coming ashore upon the rock.
The boats landed at half-past 7 o’clock A. M., at the creek on the
southern side of the rock, marked Port Hamilton in Plate VI., which
to-day was found to be the most accessible landing-place. But as one of
the boats was in the act of entering this creek, the seaman at the bow
oar, who had just entered the service, having inadvertently expressed
some fear, from a heavy sea which came rolling towards the boat, and
one of the artificers having at the same time looked round and missed
a stroke with his oar, such a preponderance was thus given to the
rowers upon the opposite side, that when the wave struck the boat, it
threw her upon a ledge of shelving rocks, where the water left her,
and she having _kanted_ to seaward, the next wave completely filled
her with water. After making considerable efforts, the boat was again
got afloat in the proper track of the creek, so that we landed without
any other accident than a complete ducking. This accident caused us to
lose some time; but, as the boats could not conveniently leave the rock
till flood-tide, and there being no possibility of getting a shift of
clothes, the artificers began with all speed to work, so as to bring
themselves into heat, while the writer, and his assistants, kept as
much as possible in motion. Having remained more than an hour upon the
rock, the boats left it at half-past 9; and after getting on board, the
writer recommended to the artificers, as the best mode of getting into
a state of comfort, to strip off their wet clothes, and go to bed for
an hour or two. No farther inconveniency was felt, and no one seemed to
complain of the affection called “catching cold.”
It was a standing order in the landing department, that every man
should use his greatest exertions, in giving the boats sufficient
force or velocity to preserve their steerage-way in entering the
respective creeks at the rock, that the contending seas might not have
the command of the boat at places where the free use of the oars could
not be had, on account of the surrounding rocks. The late accident,
accordingly, put all hands more upon their guard, as such an occurrence
might have proved fatal to all on board, under a very slight change of
circumstances.
[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: Floating-light moored in her new station.]
The first object to be accomplished, with the assistance of the
Light-house Yacht, was to get the floating-light secured at her new
station, an operation which required the finest of weather. To-day, the
wind was at NE., and although moderate, it was, of all others, most
dreaded at the Bell Rock, the heavy gale of the 6th instant having
been from this direction. The writer, however, judged it advisable to
proceed with the laying down of the new moorings, and in case of any
accident by the slipping of the chain, as formerly, the artificers,
instead of going to the rock this tide, were kept on board, that the
seamen and all hands might be on the spot to render assistance. These
new moorings consisted of 40 fathoms of chain, made from iron-bars of
one inch square, with a cast-iron mushroom-anchor, weighing 1 ton 1
cwt. 2 qrs. 4 lb. This anchor and chain, were let down in a depth of
twenty-one fathoms, the Bell Rock being from the new station SE. ½
S., distant two and a half miles; Redhead N. by E., distant ten miles;
Arbroath N.NW., distant about ten miles; Fifeness SW. by W., distant
about eleven miles, and Isle of May SW. by S., distant sixteen miles.
The moorings having been laid down on this spot, a buoy was placed upon
them. The Yacht then took the floating-light in tow to her new station,
where she was made fast to the chain, with a new cable measuring
sixteen inches in circumference. This business was successfully
accomplished at about 2 o’clock P. M., after six hours of very hard
work.
The first cables of the floating-light were of patent cordage, made of
the very best materials, and most beautifully laid by machinery. But
the sailors complained that these ropes were so stiff and unpliable,
that they could neither be got stowed in the hold, nor run freely out
of the hause-holes. These difficulties were also more felt with the
patent laid cables, after the weather became somewhat cold. It was,
therefore, found necessary to get a new cable, laid in the ordinary
way, for the winter months.
[Sidenote: Smeaton arrives with the beams of the Beacon in tow.]
Another important occurrence, connected with the operations of this
season, was the arrival of the Smeaton at 4 P. M., having in tow
the six principal beams of the Beacon-house, together with all the
stanchions and other work on board for fixing it on the rock. The
mooring of the floating-light was a great point gained, but, in
the erection of the beacon at this late period of the season, new
difficulties presented themselves. The success of such an undertaking,
at any season, was precarious; because a single day of bad weather
occurring, before the necessary fixtures could be made, might sweep
the whole apparatus from the rock. Notwithstanding these difficulties,
the writer had determined to make the trial, although he could almost
have wished, upon looking at the state of the clouds, and the direction
of the wind, that the apparatus for the beacon had been still in the
work-yard.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.]
[Sidenote: Preparations for erecting them.]
The weather to-day did not prognosticate any thing very favourable;
the wind, though in light breezes, continued at NE., and it was
occasionally almost calm. The main beams of the Beacon were made up
in two separate rafts, fixed with bars and bolts of iron. One of
these rafts, not being immediately wanted, was left astern of the
floating-light, and the other was kept in tow by the Smeaton, at
the buoy nearest to the rock. The Light-house Yacht rode at another
buoy, with all hands on board that could possibly be spared out of
the floating-light; including also ten additional men, as carpenters,
smiths and sailors, brought off for this operation. The party of
artificers and seamen which landed this morning on the Bell Rock,
counted altogether forty in number. At half-past 8 o’clock, a Derrick
or mast of thirty feet in height, was erected and properly supported
with guy-ropes, for suspending the block for raising the first
principal beam of the beacon; and a winch-machine was also bolted down
to the rock for working the purchase-tackle. The necessary blocks and
tackle were likewise laid to hand and properly arranged. The artificers
and seamen were severally allotted in squads to different stations;
some were to bring the principal beams to hand, others were to work
the tackles, while a third set had the charge of the iron-stanchions,
bolts, and wedges, so that the whole operation of raising the beams,
and fixing them to the rock, might go forward in such a manner that
some provision might be made, in every stage of the work, for securing
what had been accomplished, in case of a change of weather.
Upon raising the derrick, all hands on the rock spontaneously gave
three hearty cheers, as a favourable omen of our future exertions in
pointing out more permanently the position of the rock. Even to this
single spar of timber, could it be preserved, a drowning man might lay
hold. When the Smeaton drifted on the 2d of this month, such a spar
would have been sufficient to save us, till she could have come to
our relief. These preparations for the erection of the Beacon having
been previously made, the writer collected the heads of the several
departments on board of the Light-house Yacht, particularly the foremen
of the builders and joiners, and the masters and mates of the vessels.
Here the operation of raising and fixing the first four beams was again
talked over and arranged, as, from the very limited period of working
on the rock, every thing required to be performed in the most prompt
and systematic manner, as previously settled.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: Four of the principal beams erected.]
The wind this morning was variable, but the weather continued extremely
favourable for the operations throughout the whole day. At 6 A. M.
the boats were in motion, and the raft, consisting of four of the six
principal beams of the Beacon-house, each measuring about sixteen
inches square, and fifty feet in length, was towed to the rock, where
it was anchored, that it might _ground_ upon it as the water ebbed. At
7 A. M. the boats of the Floating-light, the Yacht, and the Smeaton,
arrived at the rock, when the work immediately commenced. The sailors
and artificers, including all hands to-day, counted no fewer than
fifty-two, being perhaps the greatest number of persons ever collected
upon the Bell Rock. It was early in the tide when the boats reached
the rock, and the men worked a considerable time up to their middle
in water, every one being more eager than his neighbour to be useful.
Even the four artificers, who had hitherto declined working on Sunday,
were to-day most zealous in their exertions; they had indeed become so
convinced of the precarious nature and necessity of the work, that they
never afterwards absented themselves from the rock on Sunday, when a
landing was practicable.
[Sidenote: Method of raising the principal beams of the Beacon-house.]
Having made fast a piece of very good new line, at about two thirds
from the lower end of one of the beams, the purchase-tackle of the
derrick was hooked into the turns of the line, and it was speedily
raised, by the number of men on the rock, and the power of the winch
tackle. When this log was lifted to a sufficient height, its foot,
or lower end, was _stepped_ into the spot which had been previously
prepared for it. Two of the great iron stanchions were then set into
their respective holes, on each side of the beam, when a rope was
passed round them and the beam, to prevent it from slipping, till it
could be more permanently fixed. The derrick or upright spar used
for carrying the tackle to raise the first beam, was placed in such
a position as to become useful for supporting the upper end of it,
which now became, in its turn, the prop of the tackle for raising the
second beam, which was laid in such a position, that when hoisted up,
its foot slipped into its place, when it was, in like manner, lashed
to its great iron stanchions on each side. The first and second beams
being lashed to one another at the top, served as a pair of sheers,
from which the purchase tackle was now suspended, for raising the
other two beams, which were also speedily got into their places. The
whole difficulty of this operation was in the raising and propping
of the first beam, which became a convenient derrick for raising the
second, these again a pair of sheers for lifting the third, and the
sheers a triangle for raising the fourth. Having thus got four of the
six principal beams set on end, it required a considerable degree of
trouble to get their upper ends to fit. Here they formed the apex of a
cone, and were all together mortised into a large piece of beechwood,
and secured, for the present, with ropes, in a temporary manner. During
the short period of one tide, all that could further be done for their
security, was to put a single screw-bolt through the great kneed bats
or stanchions on each side of the beams, and screw the nut home. In
this manner each beam, with its respective pair of bats, was fixed,
besides being strongly bound together with ropes.
[Sidenote: Method of fixing the great iron stanchions into the rock.]
While one set of the artificers were employed in this operation,
another fixed the great iron-stanchions into the rock, into which they
were sunk to the depth of about twenty inches. They were of a dove-tail
or wedge form, at the lower end, where they measured an inch and a
half in thickness; were about four inches in their medium breadth; and
were let perpendicularly into the rock, but kneed or bent to suit the
angle which the beams formed with it. These great bats or stanchions
had much the figure and appearance of a soldier’s musket; they were
five feet in length, and weighed about 140 lb. each. Instead of running
the bat-holes full of melted lead, as is common in operations of this
kind, but which, in case of friction or movement, is apt to be squeezed
out of the holes, all the bats made use of at the Bell Rock, as before
noticed, were fixed by means of wedges. Several of the artificers were
therefore employed in wedging these stanchions first with fir-timber,
then with oak, and lastly with iron, driven into spaces left for this
purpose, between the bats and the rock. These wedges were driven so
firmly, that although the stanchions were the only fixture for this
wooden house, it had not been found necessary to drive any of the
wedges a second time.
[Sidenote: Have seven hours work upon the rock.]
In this manner these four principal beams were erected, and left in a
pretty secure state. It, however, required the whole tide to get this
much accomplished. Indeed, the men had commenced during ebb-tide, while
there was about two or three feet water upon the site of the Beacon,
and as the sea was smooth, they continued the work equally long during
flood-tide. Two of the boats being left at the rock to take off the
joiners, who were busily employed on the upper parts till 2 o’clock
P. M., this tide’s work may be said to have continued for about seven
hours, which was the longest that had hitherto been got upon the rock
by at least three hours.
When the first boats left the rock with the artificers employed on
the lower part of the work during the flood-tide, the Beacon had
quite a novel appearance. The beams erected, formed a common base of
about thirty-three feet, meeting at the top, which, independently of
ulterior works, was about forty-five feet above the rock, and here
half a dozen of the artificers were still at work. After clearing the
rock, the boats made a stop, when three hearty cheers were given, which
were returned with equal good will by those upon the Beacon, from the
personal interest which every one felt in the prosperity of this work,
so intimately connected with his safety.
[Sidenote: All hands assemble to prayers.]
All hands having returned to their respective ships, they got a
shift of dry clothes, and some refreshment. Being Sunday, they were
afterwards convened by signal on board of the Light-house Yacht, when
prayers were read; for every heart, upon this occasion, felt gladness,
and every mind was disposed to be thankful for the happy and successful
termination of the operations of this day. The crews then returned to
their respective ships, and as nothing further could be done to the
Beacon during the night tide, there was no landing made in the evening.
[Sidenote: Monday 21st.]
The weather most fortunately continued favourable for the operations,
the wind being westerly, with fresh breezes. The boats landed at
half-past 7 A. M., the number of persons on the rock being, as
formerly, fifty-two; the work was carried on till half-past 12, making
four hours and a half upon the rock. The remaining two principal beams
were erected in the course of this tide, which, with the assistance
of those set up yesterday, was found to be a very simple operation.
In hoisting up the sixth and last log, however, and just when it was
about to be kanted into its place, the iron-hook of the principal
purchase-block gave way, and this great beam, measuring fifty feet in
length, fell upon the rock with a terrible crash; but what is not a
little wonderful, although there were fifty-two people engaged round
the beacon, yet not one was hurt in the slightest degree by its fall.
The beam itself was only a little shaken near the upper end, but was
not materially damaged. Another block was immediately hooked, in the
place of that which had failed, and the beam was got into its place
without much delay. Every possible exertion was now made to fix the
lower ends of the beams to the rock, by connecting them with their
respective stanchions, while three strong hoops of malleable iron were
employed, for securing the whole in one mass at the top.
The six principal beams of the beacon were thus secured, at least in a
temporary manner, in the course of two tides, or in the short space of
about eleven hours and a half. The only inconveniency attending this
operation, arose from the derrick for raising the first beam being
rather too short. It was only thirty feet in height, whereas it was
found that it would have answered better had it been about forty-five
feet. We were also a good deal troubled and perplexed with the logs
afloat, from having the six principal beams in two rafts: it would have
been more convenient had they been lashed together in pairs, and then
rafted in one lot. The writer concludes, upon the whole, that about
eight hours only were actually employed in raising the beams of the
beacon, and fixing them in a temporary manner. Such is the progress
that may be made, when active hands and willing minds set properly to
work in operations of this kind.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Four of the supporting beams set up.]
Having now got the weighty part of this work over, and being thereby
relieved of the difficulty both of landing and victualling such a
number of men, the Smeaton could now be spared, and she was accordingly
dispatched to Arbroath, for a supply of water and provisions, and
carried with her six of the artificers who could best be spared. The
wind to-day was due west, and blowing so fresh, that the boats had some
difficulty in landing the remaining thirty-six persons at 8 A. M. who
continued on the rock till half-past 12, having had four and a half
hours work. During this tide four of the struts, or supporting beams,
were set up, butting against the inside of four of the principal beams.
These supports were each about twenty feet in length, varying somewhat
according to the inequalities of the rock. At the foot they were fixed
to the rock with stanchions, similar to those of the principal beams,
and at the top they were connected with pieces of oak, strongly
strapped with iron, collapsing around the principal beams to which they
were bolted.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: The boats have some difficulty in leaving the rock to-day.]
Landed at half-past 9 this morning, and succeeded in getting up the
two remaining supports, and in fixing several of the bracing chains.
But, instead of entering at present into any farther details about the
several parts of the beacon, it will be better to refer these to the
letter-press description of Plate VIII. After having been four and a
half hours at work on the rock to-day, the boats left it, though not
without considerable difficulty, as the wind had been blowing fresh all
the last night, and to-day it was shifting and veering about from N.W.
to N.N.E., which had already set up a pretty heavy sea. In going out of
the eastern harbour, the boat which the writer steered shipped a sea,
that filled her about one-third with water. She had also been hid for
a short time, by the waves breaking upon the rock, from the sight of
the crew of the preceding boat, who were much alarmed for our safety,
imagining for a time that she had gone down.
[Sidenote: Shipping separated by a gale.]
The Smeaton returned from Arbroath this afternoon, but there was so
much sea that she could not be made fast to her moorings; she therefore
let go her small bower anchor, in order to get a supply of provisions
put on board of the Light-house yacht, and receive other six of the
artificers to carry ashore. But the anchor was no sooner let go than
it broke among the rocks, and the vessel was obliged to return to
Arbroath, without being able either to deliver the provisions, or take
the artificers on board. The Light-house yacht was also soon obliged
to follow her example, as the sea was breaking heavily over her bows.
After getting two reefs in the mainsail, and the third or storm-jib
set, the wind being SW., she beat to windward, though blowing a hard
gale, and got into St Andrew’s Bay, where we passed the night under
the lee of Fifeness. In these circumstances, it was impossible for the
writer to divest himself of much anxiety for the fate of the newly
erected beacon, which was still but imperfectly fixed to the rock.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.]
At 2 o’clock this morning we were in St Andrew’s Bay, standing off
and on shore, with strong gales of wind at SW.; at 7 we were off the
entrance of the Tay; at 8 stood towards the rock, and at 10 passed to
leeward of it, but could not attempt a landing. The beacon, however,
appeared to remain in good order, and by 6 P. M. the vessel had again
beaten up to St Andrew’s Bay, and got into somewhat smoother water for
the night.
[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.]
The wind still continues at SW., blowing very hard; at 7 o’clock bore
away for the Bell Rock, but finding a heavy sea running on it, were
unable to land. The writer, however, had the satisfaction to observe,
with his telescope, that every thing about the beacon appeared entire,
and although the sea had a most frightful appearance, yet it was the
opinion of every one, that, since the erection of the beacon, the Bell
Rock was divested of many of its terrors, and, had it been possible
to have got the boats hoisted out and manned, it might have even been
found practicable to land: the vessel was, therefore, kept in the
track of the rock, till it could be determined if a landing might be
effected with the afternoon’s tide. The Yacht, in the mean time, stood
towards the Redhead on the opposite shore, and at 5 P. M. returned;
but both the wind and sea had rather increased. At 6 it blew so hard,
that it was found necessary to strike the topmast and take in a third
reef of the mainsail, and under this low canvas we soon reached St
Andrew’s Bay, and got again under the lee of the land for the night.
The artificers being sea-hardy, were quite reconciled to their quarters
on board of the Light-house Yacht; but it is believed that hardly any
consideration would have induced them again to take up their abode in
the floating-light.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.]
[Sidenote: Land on the rock after an absence of four days.]
In the course of the last night, the wind had shifted from SW. to W.
NW., with moderate weather. At day-light, the Yacht steered towards the
Bell Rock, and at 8 A. M., made fast to her moorings; at 10, all hands,
to the amount of thirty, landed, when the writer had the happiness to
find that the beacon had withstood the violence of the gale and the
heavy breach of sea, every thing being found in the same state in which
it had been left on the 21st. The artificers were now enabled to work
upon the rock throughout the whole day, both at low and high water,
but it required the strictest attention to the state of the weather,
in case of their being overtaken with a gale, which might prevent the
possibility of getting them off the rock. To-day, one half of the
artificers remained on the beacon till half-past 6 P. M., having been
eight hours and a half at work upon it.
[Sidenote: Smith’s forge removed from the rock to the Beacon.]
Two somewhat memorable circumstances in the annals of the Bell Rock
attended the operations of this day; one was the removal of Mr James
Dove, the foreman smith, with his apparatus, from the rock to the upper
part of the beacon, where the forge was now erected on a temporary
platform, laid on the cross beams or upper framing. The other was,
the artificers having dined for the first time upon the rock, their
dinner being cooked on board of the Yacht, and sent to them by one of
the boats. But what afforded the greatest happiness and relief, was
the removal of the large bellows, which had all along been a source of
much trouble and perplexity, by their hampering and incommoding the
boat which carried the smiths and their apparatus. The men belonging
to that boat were so delighted with this occurrence, that while the
bellows were in the act of being hoisted up to their new station, they
gave three such hearty cheers, from below, as astonished and surprised
those who were working the tackle on the beacon, to such a degree,
that, for a moment, they let the rope slip through their hands, and had
they not speedily caught hold again, this useful implement might have
been dashed to pieces,--which would have been a misfortune of no small
import, considering the state of the works at the present crisis.
[Sidenote: Sunday 27th.]
It being now the period of neap-tides, other ten of the artificers were
sent ashore to the work-yard at Arbroath, which reduced our complement
at the rock to twenty. The boats landed the people this morning at 11,
but the masons had only about an hour’s work on the highest part of
the foundation of the light-house, which was only partially left by
the water, the joiners and two blacksmiths being busily employed in
completing and securing the several parts of the beacon, particularly
in screwing the bolts of the stanchions and bracing-chains, and in
staying the lower part of the beams. They continued at these operations
till 6 o’clock P. M., having been nine hours upon the rock.
[Sidenote: Monday, 28th.]
[Sidenote: The writer sails for Arbroath after having been four weeks
afloat.]
The joiners and smiths were landed on the beacon at 7 A. M., where
they continued all day, and were brought off again at 5 P. M. The
Smeaton had just returned from Leith, where she had been sent for
sundry materials connected with the work. The joiners and smiths were
ten hours upon the rock to-day, which was the longest period they
had hitherto been upon it at any one time. They now had their dinner
regularly sent to the beacon, and could continue at work throughout
the whole day, while the weather was sufficiently moderate to admit
of the boats plying to and from the rock. To-day the water did not
leave it, and it was now the seventh day since the lowest part of the
foundation or site of the light-house had been seen. The Beacon being
now in a comparative state of security, the Smeaton was left at the
rock as a tender, and the writer sailed in the Light-house yacht, this
afternoon, to inquire into the operations of the work-yard at Arbroath.
After setting sail, and looking back upon the Bell Rock, it was quite
astonishing to observe the change in the appearance of things, which
the erection of these beams had produced. To shipping they became an
excellent beacon; while they induced the greatest confidence of safety
in all who were actively engaged in this work. The vessel anchored in
the bay of Arbroath, at a late hour, when the writer landed, for the
first time since the commencement of the working season, on the 17th of
August; after having been between four and five weeks afloat.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.]
This morning was occupied in going over the work-yard with Mr David
Logan, clerk of works, who had charge of the hewing department. The
first entire course of the building was now partly laid upon the
platform: a few stones of the second course, and several of the higher
courses, were also in progress. But from the backward state of the
quarries in the production of stones of large dimensions, it was found
necessary to make some additional exertions for procuring a more
regular supply, and a person was therefore dispatched to the quarries
of Aberdeen and Mylnefield for this purpose.
[Sidenote: Sails again for the Bell Rock.]
Having made some further arrangements in the work-yard, the writer
again embarked in the Yacht, and sailed for the Bell Rock this
forenoon, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and
the artificers who had formerly been at the rock; but who had expressly
stipulated that they were not to be obliged to continue longer afloat
than the approaching spring-tides, when it was expected the Beacon
works would be completely secured for the winter. In the early part of
this day, there was little or no wind, but in the afternoon it came to
blow very hard from south by west, and in the evening it had increased
to a hard gale. Having stood off to the Bell Rock, and put the vessel
under low canvas, we hailed the floating-light, and found her labouring
very hard with sixty fathoms of cable out. We then stretched to the
southern side of the Bell Rock, when the vessel was laid to; but the
Smeaton, which was also in company, being a small vessel, and much
hampered with boats, was not in a condition to keep at sea, and as soon
as the gale got up she stood in for Arbroath, and landed Mr Francis
Watt, the foreman-joiner, and the artificers under his charge, to wait
a favourable change of weather.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 30th.]
[Sidenote: The vessels again separated by a gale.]
This morning it was calculated, by Mr Gloag, the commander of the
Light-house Yacht, that she had drifted about thirty miles, in a SE.
direction from the Redhead. About mid-day, the wind shifted to NW.,
and we steered for St Abb’s Head, which was seen about twilight in the
evening, and our course was directed across the Firth of Forth. When
in the act of putting about the ship, the stem boat was very nearly
lost, having been struck by a heavy sea which unhooked the fore-tackle.
At midnight we got within a few miles of the light of May, and soon
afterwards found smooth water in St Andrew’s Bay, where we tacked, or
“stood to and again,” as the sailors term it, all night.
[Sidenote: 1807, October.]
[Sidenote: October, Thursday 1st.]
This morning the wind shifted to NE. with moderate breezes. In the
course of the forenoon we beat towards the Bell Rock, and sailed round
it, when every thing appeared to be in good order about the beacon.
Having no shelter in St Andrew’s Bay with this wind, the Yacht stood
alternately towards Arbroath and the Bell Rock for the night. The
floating-light being a most excellent guide for putting about, before
the vessel got too near to the rock. The older sailors on board of the
Yacht, on this occasion, made frequent observations as to the utility
of this temporary light, expressing their admiration at the change of
circumstances which had led to their cruising with so much confidence,
both by day and night, in the immediate vicinity of this dangerous rock.
[Sidenote: Friday 2d.]
[Sidenote: Effect a landing at the rock.]
The wind having come round to NW. with fresh breezes, it soon run down
the north-easterly swell of the sea, and at half-past 1 P. M., all
hands, to the amount of twenty, landed on the rock, though not without
difficulty. Twelve of the masons were engaged during three hours, or
till 4 o’clock, in excavating the foundation of the light-house, while
the eight joiners and smiths, who also had arrived with the Smeaton,
were employed at the works of the beacon for nine hours and a half; and
having continued at work by torchlight, they left the rock at half-past
10 o’clock P. M.
[Sidenote: State of the Beacon after the late gale.]
On carefully examining into the state of things at the Bell Rock,
after the late gale, the writer had the satisfaction to find, that
the principal beams of the beacon, with their diagonal supports,
cross-beams and stanchions connecting them to the rock, had not the
smallest appearance of working or shifting, as mechanics express it.
One of the tie chains had indeed given way, and hung loosely from the
beacon, and one of the bracing screws had wrought off its nut. This
was an evidence that the principal beams from the elasticity of the
timber, had been acted upon by the sea, and that they still required
some additional stay in the middle. Such, however, were the fixtures
of the beacon to the rock with the iron stanchions, and its connection
at the top, where it was strongly girt with circular hoops of iron,
that it was perfectly firm at both extremities. The central support was
intended to be effected by means of strong bars of iron, stretching
between the principal beams; but the season was now too far advanced
for such an undertaking, and therefore, the bracing-chains, represented
in Plate VIII., were attached for the present.
It was not a little remarkable, that notwithstanding the impression
which the sea had produced during the late gale, in shaking the beacon,
so as to break one of the tie-chains, unscrew one of the bracing-bolts,
and in shaking several of the smith’s tools from his hearth on the
platform at the top, yet these tools, and other small articles of iron,
were all found lying on the rock. The nut of the bolt, for example,
was got immediately under the chain from which it had dropped. Several
other striking examples of this kind were observable, shewing how
little will shelter articles somewhat ponderous in themselves, when
they lie at a considerable depth in water.
[Sidenote: Saturday 3d.]
[Sidenote: Working hours greatly extended.]
The wind being west to-day, the weather was very favourable for the
operations at the rock, and during the morning and evening tides, with
the aid of torch-light, the masons had seven hours’ work upon the site
of the building. The smiths and joiners, who landed at half-past 6 A.
M., did not leave the rock till a quarter past 11 P. M., having been at
work, with little intermission, for sixteen hours and three quarters.
When the water left the rock, they were employed at the lower parts
of the beacon, and as the tide rose or fell, they shifted the place
of their operations. From these exertions, the fixing and securing of
the beacon made rapid advancement, as the men were now landed in the
morning, and remained throughout the day. But, as a sudden change of
weather might have prevented their being taken off at the proper time
of tide, a quantity of bread and water was always kept on the Beacon.
[Sidenote: Sunday 4th.]
The wind was southerly during the fore part of the day, and towards
evening it became quite calm. The boats landed the artificers this
morning at a quarter before 7 o’clock; when the masons had three
and a half hours’ work at the foundation of the building, but the
spring-tides were now taking off; the best of them having unfortunately
been lost during the late gale. The smiths and joiners, however,
continued their operations throughout the whole of the day, and did not
leave the rock till half-past 12 at night.
During this period of working at the Beacon all the day, and often a
great part of the night, the writer was much on board of the Tender;
but, while the masons could work on the rock, and frequently also while
it was covered by the tide, he remained on the Beacon; especially
during the night, as he made a point of being on the rock to the latest
hour, and was generally the last person who stepped into the boat. He
had laid this down as part of his plan of procedure; and in this way
had acquired, in the course of the first season, a pretty complete
knowledge and experience of what could actually be done at the Bell
Rock, under all circumstances of the weather. By this means also his
assistants, and the artificers and mariners, got into a systematic
habit of proceeding at the commencement of the work, which, it is
believed, continued throughout the whole of the operations.
[Sidenote: Beacon works finished for the season.]
The external part of the beacon was now finished, with its supports
and bracing-chains, and whatever else was considered necessary for its
stability, in so far as the season would permit; and although much was
still wanting to complete this fabric, yet it was in such a state that
it could be left without much fear of the consequences of a storm. The
painting of the upper part was nearly finished this afternoon; and the
Smeaton had brought off a quantity of brush-wood and other articles,
for the purpose of heating or charring the lower part of the principal
beams, before being laid over with successive coats of boiling pitch,
to the height of from eight to twelve feet, or as high as the rise
of spring-tides. A small flag-staff having also been erected to-day,
a flag was displayed for the first time from the Beacon, by which
its perspective effect was greatly improved. On this, as on all like
occasions at the Bell Rock, three hearty cheers were given; and the
steward served out a dram of rum to all hands, while the Light-house
Yacht, Smeaton, and Floating-light, hoisted their colours in compliment
to the Erection.
[Sidenote: Monday 5th.]
To-day the wind was westerly, and the weather was very wet; but this
was thought nothing of at the Bell Rock, so long as the wind kept
moderate. At a quarter past 8 A. M. the boats landed the artificers.
The masons had only 2½ hours’ work at the site of the building,
owing to the smallness of the ebb-tide; but the joiners and smiths
continued their operations till half-past 11 P. M., and were
consequently 15 hours and a quarter upon the Rock.
[Sidenote: Mr Rennie and one of his sons visit the Rock.]
In the afternoon, and just as the tide’s work was over, Mr JOHN RENNIE,
engineer, accompanied by his son Mr GEORGE, on their way to the
harbour-works of Fraserburgh, in Aberdeenshire, paid a visit to the
Bell Rock, in a boat from Arbroath. It being then too late in the tide
for landing, they remained on board of the Light-house Yacht all night,
when the writer, who had now been secluded from society for several
weeks, enjoyed much of Mr Rennie’s interesting conversation; both on
general topics, and professionally upon the progress of the Bell-Rock
works, on which he was consulted as chief engineer. The weather
continued very moderate all night; but although there was little swell
in the sea, yet our quarters on board of the Yacht were not the most
agreeable, especially to strangers. The vessel, being perfectly new,
was so completely water-tight, that it was hardly possible to keep her
free of bilge-water, and so strong was the hydrogenous gas or offensive
effluvia arising from it, that it had affected the colour of the paint
of the cabin floor-cloth, and even, to a certain degree, blackened
the silver plate, coins and watch-cases on board, notwithstanding the
frequent pumping of the ship, and other means which were taken to
sweeten her.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 6th.]
[Sidenote: Works given up for the season.]
The artificers landed this morning at 9, after which one of the boats
returned to the ship for the writer and Messrs Rennie, who, upon
landing, were saluted with a display of the colours from the Beacon,
and by three cheers from the workmen. Both the weather and the tide
were pretty favourable for the operations, and the masons continued
about three hours at work. Every thing was now in a prepared state
for leaving the rock, and giving up the works afloat for this season,
excepting some small articles, which would still occupy the smiths and
joiners for a few days longer. They, accordingly, shifted on board of
the Smeaton, while the Yacht left the rock for Arbroath, with Messrs
Rennie, the writer, and the remainder of the artificers. But, before
taking leave, the steward served out a farewell-glass, when three
hearty cheers were given, and an earnest wish expressed, that every
thing, in the spring of 1808, might be found in the same state of good
order as it was now about to be left.
In concluding the account of the first season’s work, the writer may
observe, that he had not at any time previously to his engaging in the
Bell Rock works, been more than five or six days at sea on a stretch,
even in the course of his voyages to the Northern Light-houses. But
on the present occasion he had now been afloat upwards of seven
weeks, with the exception of a single day spent in the Work Yard.
Upon his return to the shore, therefore, after having successfully
closed these critical operations, he felt a mixed emotion of happiness
and gratitude, for so prosperous a termination; and, participating
in those feelings which are known to actuate the mariner, after a
dangerous voyage, he looked with thankfulness to that Providence
which had preserved those engaged in the work under so many perilous
circumstances.
[Sidenote: Number of days the artificers were actually at work.]
The period during which the works had been continued, appeared of much
longer duration to every one than it really was, for, upon calculating
the actual time spent upon the rock, it amounted to about 180 hours,
of which only 133 or about 13½ days, of 10 hours each, could be
said to have been actively employed. Upon looking back on this result,
the writer is astonished at what had been accomplished in so short
a period; for besides the erection of the principal beams of the
Beacon-house, something considerable had also been done towards the
preparation of the site of the Light-house. He cannot, therefore,
help thinking, that the experience of this season’s work at the Bell
Rock, affords a good example of what may be executed under similar
circumstances, when every heart and every hand is anxiously and
zealously engaged; for the artificers wrought at the erection of the
Beacon as for life; or somewhat like men stopping a breach in a wall to
keep out an overwhelming flood.
PROGRESS OF THE WORK.
In stating the progress of the Bell Rock works at the close of the
first season, it is hardly necessary to say, that, for success,
and ultimate utility, they far exceeded the writer’s most sanguine
expectations. By the erection of the frame-work of the Beacon-house,
the rock had in a great measure been robbed of its terrors to those
employed in building the Light-house. At all times when a boat could
be put to sea, or approach this sunken reef, there was not now that
actual danger in landing which formerly presented itself. Should the
Tender in future go a-drift, or a boat happen to be wrecked on the
rock, the Beacon could now be looked to as a place of shelter, till
more efficient means could be resorted to. This work had always been a
great desideratum with the writer, who had now chiefly to consider how
the future steps were to be attained, having much less to occupy his
attention in regard to the safety of the people employed.
The whole of the artificers being collected at the work-yard of
Arbroath, in the latter end of the month of October, their number
amounted to forty-four. It, therefore, became indispensably necessary
to get forward with the quarries, otherwise a number of experienced
workmen must have been paid off, which would have been attended with
much disadvantage to the operations at the rock next year. There was
now every prospect that by mid-summer, the foundation or site of the
Light-house would be completely excavated and ready for commencing the
building; while as yet the hewing of one entire course had not been
completed, for want of materials, although the stones of three or four
successive courses were in progress. For example, 10 blocks of granite
were still wanting of the first course, 30 blocks of the second, which
measured 18 inches in thickness, and 20 blocks of the third, and so
of other courses. The procuring of a sufficient stock of materials,
and getting the quarries into a more regular system of supply, became
an object which we shall more particularly notice under the article
Building Materials, in the following chapter.
[Sidenote: Work-Yard.]
The Work-Yard at Arbroath, where the stones were collected and hewn,
consisted of an inclosed piece of ground, extending to about three
quarters of an acre, conveniently situate on the northern side of the
Lady Lane, or street, leading from the western side of the Harbour,
being only about 200 yards distant from the Light-House shipping birth,
as will be seen from Plate XII. Upon this plot of ground there was
built a suite or range of barrack-rooms for the artificers, and the
several apartments connected with the engineer’s office, mould-makers’
drawing-room, stores, work-shops for smiths and joiners, stable, &c.
extending 150 feet along the north side of the work-yard, which were
now fully occupied. Shades of timber were also constructed for the
workmen in wet weather, and a kiln for burning lime. In a centrical
position of this ground, a circular platform of masonry was built, on
which the stones were laid when dressed, and each course tried and
marked, before being shipped for the rock. This platform measured
44 feet in diameter; it was founded with large broad stones, at the
depth of about 2 feet 6 inches, and built to within 10 inches of the
surface with ruble work; on which a course of neatly dressed and well
jointed masonry was laid, of the red sandstone from the quarries to the
eastward of Arbroath, which brought the platform on a level with the
surface of the ground. Here the dressed part of the first entire course
of the Light-House was now lying, and the platform was so substantially
built as to be capable of supporting any number of courses which it
might be found convenient to lay upon it, in the further progress of
the work.
[Sidenote: 1807, November.]
Mr Gloag, who commanded the Light-house Yacht, had been successful in
grappling and finding the old moorings of the Pharos floating-light,
from which that vessel had drifted after the dreadful gale of the 6th
of September. These he had weighed, and removed to within about 400
fathoms of the new ground taken up by that vessel, and had placed
a buoy upon them, that, in case of her again drifting, any vessel
carrying the floating-light could immediately be brought to ride at
these spare moorings. The Yacht had also lifted three of the four
floating buoys, with their chains and mushroom anchors, from the
neighbourhood of the Bell Rock, leaving one set for the use of the
vessel occasionally attending for the purpose of inspecting the Beacon.
In the course of the month of November several very severe gales of
wind occurred, and Mr Watt, the foreman joiner, who had been appointed
to examine the rock at spring-tides, when the weather would permit,
with three or four artificers, found some small repairs necessary, in
consequence of damage which the Beacon had sustained.
[Sidenote: Sunday 22d.]
[Sidenote: The Writer visits the Rock.]
On the morning of the 22d of this month, the writer landed at the
Bell Rock, when the greater part of the bracing-chains of the Beacon
were in a loosened state, and hanging from their eye-bolts, like so
much shipwreck. Two of the chain-bats were also drawn, which had
lifted considerable masses of the rock along with them. But after a
most careful and minute examination of the six principal beams of the
beacon, and their respective supports, it was satisfactory to find
that the great iron-stanchions had not the smallest appearance of
working or shifting; the wedges of timber and iron having exactly the
same appearance as when they were at first driven home by the hammer;
the coating of pitch and tar was also as entire upon the seams and
joints as when first applied. Every thing connected with the fixing
of the beams at the top was likewise in good order. Nor was it less
surprising, after so much stormy weather, to find that the ruble
building, with Pozzolano’s mortar, used in filling several holes in
the site of the Beacon, remained in its place, having now become fully
as hard as the adjoining parts of the rock.
Although it was found that the bracing-chains could not withstand the
shaking and tremulous motion of the Beacon, yet they were again set
up and tightened, with the exception of the two that had lifted their
bats, with a mass of the rock; which were knocked off altogether. It is
here worthy of remark, that the bolts of the bracing screws had always
a tendency to unlock, and one of the nuts, as before noticed, had even
unscrewed no less than three inches. To prevent this in future, a piece
of small wire was turned round the threads of each screw, which had
a tendency to preserve them; but still the chains stretched, became
loose, and broke their eye-bolts, or lifted part of the rock with the
strain. The bracing-chains may, however, be conceived to have had some
effect in checking the force of the waves, as was observable in the
operation of the sea upon the extensive beds of marine plants. It often
happened, when heavy seas were rolling along the Bell Rock, which at
a distance threatened to overrun the whole, that, upon reaching these
beds of fuci, with which the flat and level parts of the rock were
thickly coated, the velocity and force of the waves were immediately
checked, and in a great measure destroyed.
[Sidenote: Professor Playfair’s observations about the unlocking of
screws.]
The unlocking of screws, where _washers_ had been introduced as a
security, was rather unexpected, and the writer took an opportunity
of conversing with his much respected friend Professor PLAYFAIR of
Edinburgh, regarding this circumstance. The Professor observed, that he
had experienced some inconveniency of this kind from the unlocking of
almost all the screws of a telescope, which had been sent to him from
London by the mail-coach. Indeed from the spiral form of the screw,
which is, in fact, an inclined plane, Mr Playfair readily accounted for
such an occurrence; and when reflected upon, it seems to be an effect
rather to be looked for, and is a reason why rivetting the point of a
bolt, in preference to screwing it, should generally be resorted to,
where much friction or motion is to be apprehended.
[Sidenote: 1807, December.]
[Sidenote: State of the Floating-light.]
At this visit to the Bell Rock, the writer went also on board of the
Floating-light, where every thing was found in good order. On some
occasions Mr Sinclair, the commander, stated, that the vessel had
rolled excessively hard; that she had shipped two or three very heavy
seas over the waste-boards, and that he had found it occasionally
necessary to veer out 80 fathoms of cable. He also stated, that the
floating-light had been _run foul of_ by a large smack-rigged vessel,
with all her canvas set, though the lights were burning perfectly
clear. This vessel had struck upon the larboard quarter, damaged the
taff-rail, and started three of the floating-lights’ trenails. That
they immediately hailed the vessel, but she sheered-off, and her crew
made no reply. The smack was beating to the northward, and was much
lumbered on the quarter-deck with packages of earthen-ware, which were
distinctly seen upon her deck from the brilliancy of the lights.
The sailors on board of the floating-light were all in good health, and
appeared to be satisfied with their situation. The master, however,
mentioned, that his crew, particularly the young men, calculated very
sharply about their turns for leave on shore, which came round in the
course of about six weeks. Indeed, the probability is, that had the
seamen not been rather compelled to this duty, as a protection against
the Impress-service, it might have been found extremely difficult to
get able seamen to undertake so dreary a life as the continual round
of riding at anchor in the open sea, without the company of other
shipping, or the pleasure of intercourse with the shore, as is the case
in the ordinary road or anchorage for shipping.
The several departments of the Bell Rock works being arranged for
the winter months, the sloop Smeaton was appointed to make several
trips to the quarries for stones, while the Light-house Yacht, being
stationed at Arbroath, was to attend the Floating-light, and carry off
the artificers to examine the state of the Beacon at spring-tides.
The writer having adjusted these matters, returned to Edinburgh on
the 4th of December. Here he was employed in preparing the necessary
implements, procuring materials, and in other objects connected
with the work, which will fall more properly to be noticed in the
transactions of the year 1808.