PHAROS FLOATING LIGHT-SHIP.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE
BELL-ROCK.--ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND FURTHER PROGRESS OF THE
LIGHT-HOUSE WORKS IN 1807.
[Sidenote: Floating-Light.]
The Act of Parliament, by which the Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses were empowered to undertake the works at the Bell Rock,
having only received the Royal Assent late in the month of July 1806,
there was not sufficient time for making the necessary preparations
for their commencement that season. But the writer, on his return from
London, received instructions from the Board to have such preliminary
steps in view, as would enable him to begin the operations early in the
summer of 1807. This being arranged, he sailed in the month of August,
on his annual voyage, for the inspection of the Northern Light-houses.
[Sidenote: Act provides for a Floating-Light and Beacon.]
The bill for the Bell Rock Light-house was drawn up, under a strong
impression of the uncertainty which must attend the whole of the
works at the rock, and doubts were accordingly entertained as to
the estimated expence being adequate to the accomplishment of the
undertaking. A clause had, therefore, been introduced, authorising
the collection of the light-house duties of one penny halfpenny _per_
register ton from British vessels, and threepence _per_ ton from
foreigners, “immediately upon mooring or anchoring a ship or vessel,
and exhibiting a floating or other light, at or near the Bell Rock,”
and “half the amount of the said duties respectively,” on the erection
of “a proper beacon or distinguishing mark or object on the said Bell
Rock.” The measures first in order were, consequently, to fit out
and moor a floating-light and to erect a beacon on the Bell Rock,
that shipping might derive immediate advantage from them, while the
light-house was in progress; and also that the funds of the Board
might, as early as possible, have the benefit of the additional duties.
We therefore proceed to give an account of the outfit and mooring of
this vessel, and of the erection of the beacon-house, without attending
strictly to the chronological order of the works.
The writer had frequent communications with the late Captain Huddart,
of the Trinity-House of London, and other nautical men, both as to the
form of a vessel, and the moorings proper for a situation like the Bell
Rock: here the depth of water could not be less than from seventeen to
nineteen fathoms at the lowest tide, whereas, on the English coast,
the depth where floating lights are, in general, moored, does not
exceed seven or eight fathoms, and their moorings, consequently, much
more easily managed. The writer had also visited the floating light
of the Nore, at the entrance of the river Thames; and he was induced,
upon the whole, to conclude, that a vessel built after the manner and
construction of the Dutch fishing-doggers, would be the most suitable
for riding at anchor in the open sea, and that her moorings should
consist partly of an iron chain, and partly of a hempen cable.
_Pharos Floating Light-ship._
[Sidenote: Fishing Dogger purchased, and named The Pharos.]
In the year 1806, a great number of vessels were taken by our cruizers,
upon the coasts of Holland, Denmark, and Norway, many of which were
carried into Leith to be sold. One of these, a Prussian, which happened
to be captured while fishing on the Dogger Bank, was purchased for the
Bell Rock service. This vessel was of a flat construction, rounded off
both at the stem and stern, agreeably to the ordinary make of these
doggers. She was called the Tonge Gerrit, but was afterwards named
the Pharos, in allusion to the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria. She
measured 67 feet in length, and 16 feet in breadth, upon deck, 8 feet
depth of hold, and was 82 tons register. It was, however, only the form
of her hull that fitted her for our purpose; her rigging and whole
equipment having to undergo a complete alteration, for the light-house
service.
[Sidenote: Fitted out under the direction of the Trinity-House, Leith.]
The establishing of a floating-light being quite new upon the coast
of Scotland, and that every thing connected with this vessel might be
done upon the best principles, the writer procured the assistance of Mr
Joseph Webb, an experienced pilot of Yarmouth, who had attended the
fitting up of one of the floating lights stationed off that coast, and
who had been recommended by the Trinity Board of London as a person of
skill, for instructing the master of the vessel in all the details of
the service. Several of the Captains of the Trinity-House of Leith also
obligingly formed themselves into a committee, and from time to time
assisted in giving directions as to the necessary repairs and outfit of
the vessel.
Agreeably to this arrangement, the Prussian dogger was put into one of
the graving docks of Leith, in the month of March 1807, and underwent
a complete examination, when it was found that she required a few
new timbers in her bottom; and that to strengthen her upper works,
several new beams and additional knees were necessary. Her bottom had
to be new trenailed and caulked, and then sheathed with fir plank. Her
ceiling, or interior lining, was also caulked, and made water-tight,
in case of accident to the outer plank, in the event of her breaking
adrift, and getting upon the Bell Rock. Her deck-plank and upper works
were also entirely renewed; and from stem to stern, under deck, her
accommodations were laid out anew. She was furnished with three masts,
of a length calculated to enable her to ride with as little incumbrance
as possible in a storm; the main-mast being only thirty-five feet above
the deck, while the fore and mizen masts were each twenty-five feet.
The rigging was also made of light cordage, and she was provided with
storm-sails, to be used in the event of her breaking adrift in bad
weather. By the time, therefore, that this vessel came from the hands
of the carpenters, very little of the old work remained, as nothing
had been omitted, which could, in any manner, add to her strength and
durability. She was fitted up with births for about thirty artificers,
besides her ordinary crew and officers, amounting to thirteen in
number, independently of her hold for oil and stores of various
descriptions. In the distribution of these, the fore-peak of the ship
was allotted for the sailors; the waist for the artificers; and galley
appropriated to the cooking of the victuals. Next to this, a large
cabin was set off for the master, mate, and principal light-keeper, and
for the foremen of the works; while the after or stern part of the ship
formed a cabin for the use of the engineer.
[Sidenote: Peculiar construction of Lanterns.]
The Pharos was furnished with a large copper lantern for each mast,
containing ten lamps, with small silver-plated reflectors, ranged upon
a chandelier, moveable at pleasure, in a horizontal direction, for the
conveniency of turning the lamps to trim them and clean the reflectors.
To make the vessel ride as easily as possible, in a situation so
exposed, the lanterns were made of a peculiar construction, so as
to screw together upon the masts, in two pieces, longitudinally, as
represented in Plate X., Figs. 1, 2, and 3. By these means, the light
could be seen in every direction, without the necessity of suspending
them in the usual manner from yards, or other weighty apparatus, which
tend not only to obscure the light, but also to make the ship ride
heavily in bad weather.
[Sidenote: Construction of Moorings.]
The moorings of the floating light consisted of a large mushroom
anchor, of cast-iron, weighing about a ton and a half, and made with a
shank and head, resembling in form, as nearly as may be, the vegetable
from which it takes its name. This anchor was made with a malleable
iron shank, but latterly these mushroom anchors were made wholly of
cast-iron, as represented in Plate X., Fig. 4. A chain of fifty fathoms
in length, was attached to the anchor, made of inch and half bars of
iron, to which a hempen cable, of 14 inches in circumference, and 120
fathoms in length, was connected, to be veered out according to the
state of the weather.
[Sidenote: Pharos is towed to the Roads.]
The Pharos being ready for sea, was, on the 9th of July, towed out
of the harbour of Leith to the Roads, by the Light-house Yacht, a
cutter-rigged vessel attached to the general service of the Northern
Light-houses. The Yacht had the Pharos’ moorings on board, and was
appointed to conduct her to the Bell Rock, and lay them down. A curious
enough circumstance took place, when the crew of the floating-light was
mustered, before leaving the harbour: two of the seamen having taken
alarm, at the destination of the ship, and the nature of the service
in which they were about to embark, suddenly turned about, and, to the
great surprise of their comrades, ran with the utmost precipitation
from the ship; to which they never again returned. Their places,
however, were supplied with others, without much inconvenience.
[Sidenote: Committee of the Trinity-House go to the Bell Rock.]
As the gentlemen of the Trinity-house of Leith, had all along taken
a particular interest in the fitting out of the floating-light, the
Commissioners requested their assistance in fixing upon the precise
spot in which she should be moored, for the direction of ships passing
the Bell Rock. This they readily complied with, suggesting, at the
same time, that some of the shipmasters of Arbroath, who were locally
acquainted with the coast, should also be invited to give their
opinion and advice upon this point. A few of the most experienced
ship-masters and merchants of Arbroath were accordingly invited to
come off, when the floating light should make her appearance in their
neighbourhood. Matters being thus arranged, the writer went on board of
the Light-house Yacht, on the 10th, accompanied by Mr Thomas Grindlay,
master of the Trinity-house of Leith, with Mr John Hay, and Mr Thomas
Ritchie, Assistant-Masters.
[Sidenote: Pharos sails for the Bell Rock.]
At 8 A. M. the Pharos got under way in Leith Roads, and sailed for her
station at the Bell Rock, under the command of Mr George Sinclair,
with a crew of twelve in number. But as she sailed very heavily, the
Yacht, with her party, did not follow till noon, and about 2 P. M. came
up with her, and took her in tow, when it came to blow fresh breezes
from SW. At 6, both vessels anchored for the night on the eastern
side of the Isle of May, as, by continuing our course, we should have
reached the Bell Rock under night, which was then an object of terror
to every seaman, and must have been attended with danger, from its then
undistinguished state.
[Sidenote: Committee from Arbroath join the party.]
While the Yacht and Pharos lay at anchor at the Isle of May, Mr David
Balfour, Mr Andrew Duncan, Mr David Cargill, Mr John Fleming, and Mr
William Kidd, as a Committee from Arbroath, having hired a vessel,
left that place in the morning, and hailed the Yacht, soon after she
came to an anchor, when some of their party joined us on board. As the
accommodations of the floating light were very ample, having only the
ship’s company on board, it was proposed that the whole party should
meet in her, and pass the night; but she rolled from side to side, in
so extraordinary a manner, that even the most sea-hardy of our number
were content to remain in a state of separation, rather than accept of
the best birth in the floating light. It was humorously observed of
this vessel, “that she was in some danger of making a round turn, and
appearing with her keel uppermost.” Another said, “she would roll out
her masts;” and a third that she would “even turn a halfpenny, if laid
upon deck.” These, and such like remarks, afforded much pleasantry on
board of the Light-house Yacht, and were suggested by the manner in
which the Pharos rolled and _yawed_ about, when compared with the more
easy motion of the other vessels. Being then in light ballast trim
to fit her for riding in bad weather, and very flat in the bottom,
the smallest wave set her in motion, when at anchor; and when under
way, she was little better, for she answered the helm with so much
difficulty, that a large decked Praam-boat, which she had in tow, was
upset in the passage from Leith. The writer is the more particular
on this subject, as the rolling motion of the floating-light became
proverbial in the Light-house service, and continued a source of much
trouble and uneasiness to all concerned, especially while she was used
as a tender or store-ship for the works.
[Sidenote: Pharos anchors in a temporary birth.]
Early in the morning of the 11th, the vessels left their anchorage
at the Isle of May, and sailed for the Bell Rock; but on reaching
it, in the course of the forenoon, the wind came to the eastward,
accompanied with thick hazy weather, and drizzling showers of rain,
which so completely hid the distant landmarks from view, that there
was a necessity for ordering the Pharos to come to an anchor with
her best bower, on the smoothest spot of ground that could be found,
until a change of weather should admit of her being moored in a proper
manner. The weather afterwards became so foggy that every object was
lost sight of. The vessel which had brought our friends from Arbroath,
put into that harbour in the course of the evening, but the Light-house
Yacht kept at sea till the morning of the 12th, when it came to blow
so fresh, that she also went into that harbour, to wait a change of
weather. On the 14th, it improved, and the Yacht again sailed for the
Bell Rock. On returning to the floating light, we were happy to find
that all was well on board, though Mr Sinclair and Mr Webb, the pilot,
complained that their anchorage was not very good, as the bottom was
hard, and the soundings or particles brought up with the lead exhibited
sharp coral and coarse gravel. After plying about for some time with
the Yacht, and sounding in every direction, a place was at length
fixed upon, about a mile and a half in a north-westerly direction
from the Bell Rock. The Yacht, as before noticed, having on board the
floating-light’s moorings, anchored on the spot most approved of for
laying them down.
[Sidenote: In laying down her Moorings, the whole chain goes overboard.]
Some arrangements having been made among the nautical gentlemen, as
to the precise mode of going about this operation, it was resolved
to suspend the mushroom anchor over the gunwale of the Yacht, and
before letting it into the water, to bring the greater part of the
chain upon deck, taking the precaution to make the further end of
it fast to the lower part of the mast, in the vessel’s hold, with a
very strong and perfectly new stopper, or piece of rope, measuring 7
inches in circumference. It was not doubted but that this strong rope
would have held the chain against any strain that might have been
brought upon it, in the process of letting down the moorings. But the
mushroom-anchor was no sooner let go from the ship’s tackle, than the
part of the chain which had been coiled upon deck went overboard with
such velocity, that it communicated a similar impetus to the remainder
of the chain in the hold, and the strain coming ultimately upon the
stopper, snapped through the several parts which fixed the end of the
chain to the mast, and, consequently, the whole went to the bottom with
the mushroom-anchor.
[Sidenote: Moorings recovered with great difficulty.]
This untoward circumstance greatly disconcerted and embarrassed the
operations of mooring the floating-light, as the chain had now to be
fished or hooked at the bottom, and raised from the depth of seventeen
fathoms. After many trials, we at length succeeded in hooking it with a
grappling-iron, but as it happened to lay hold only a few fathoms from
the anchor, it required all the purchase-blocks and tackle of the Yacht
and Pharos to raise it: for the weight, including the anchor, and so
large a portion of the chain, could not be less than about three tons.
This operation was begun at mid-day, and, although the united force of
the crews of both ships was fully mustered, it was not till two o’clock
on the following morning,--being a period of fourteen hours,--that the
moorings were got up, and the Pharos brought alongside of the Yacht,
to receive the hempen cable, which was made fast to the _clinch_,
or great ring, connected with the chain moorings. The weather was
fortunately the most favourable that could have been desired for this
operation; and it is impossible for the writer to describe the anxiety
and exertions of all on board in getting this matter adjusted. Were he
to judge by his own feelings, he has no doubt that all on board would
join in saying, that it was one of the most painfully laborious days
they had spent in the course of their existence. For the space of about
twenty hours, the crews of both ships had never been off deck, and
during twelve of these the hand-spike, or the tackle, had not been five
minutes together out of their hands, as the refreshments which they got
were served up at the windlass. The same observations are literally
applicable to the gentlemen of the quarter-deck, who divided their
attention severally to the different tackles and purchases employed in
raising the moorings.
The perplexing and tedious business of mooring the floating-light
having been happily got over, it was judged necessary to see how she
would ride at anchor for a time, before advertising the light to the
public. The writer accordingly returned on board in the course of
three weeks, and examined the moorings, which were found in good order.
The anchorage ground was also considered of a very proper description,
in so far as observations, made during a tract of favourable weather,
had afforded the means of judging. The vessel lay in an excellent
position for the direction of shipping; and being at this time only
about a mile from the Bell Rock, her situation as a hulk or store-ship
for the light-house operations, was as favourable as the relative
position of the rock would admit. In this state of things, notice to
the following effect was given in the newspapers, for the direction of
mariners, and along with a copy of the notice, a chart or sketch of the
opposite coast was sent to the different Custom-houses.
[Sidenote: Description of the Floating-Light.]
“In virtue of an Act of Parliament of the 46th year of Geo. III. chap.
132. authorising the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses to
erect a Light-house on the Bell Rock, to place a floating light there,
and to collect duties thereupon,--notice is hereby given, that a
vessel, fitted out for a floating-light, is now moored off the Cape or
Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in
North Lat. 56° 27´, and West Long. 2° 27´.
“The moorings of the floating-light consist of a mushroom anchor,
and chain, laid down in 17 fathoms water, the Bell Rock bearing, by
compass, E. S. E. distant one mile; the Red Head, N. by E. ¼ E.
distant thirteen miles; Fifeness, S. W. ¾ W. distant twelve miles;
and the island of May S. W. ¾ S. distant seventeen miles.
“A light from oil, with reflectors, will be exhibited upon the night of
the 15th day of September 1807, and thereafter every night, from the
going away of day-light in the evening, till the return of day-light
in the morning. To distinguish this light from the double lights at
the entrance of the Firth of Tay, and on the Scares off the coast of
Northumberland, and also from the single light on the Island of May,
three distinct lights will be shown from the Bell Rock Floating-light,
by a lantern hoisted to the top of each mast, which will be visible
from every point of the compass, at the distance of from two to three
leagues; the lanterns on the fore and mizen masts being elevated 23
feet, and that on the main mast 31 feet, above the vessel’s deck; the
lights, when seen from either side of the ship, have the appearance
of a triangle, but if seen end-on, they appear as two lights, the one
above the other.
“This vessel is called the Pharos; she was formerly a fishing dogger,
and appears like a ship under jury masts; during the day-time, a blue
flag, with a light-house in the field, will be displayed from the
main-mast; and, in thick and foggy weather, a bell will be tolled,
night and day, on board, with an interval of about one minute.
“Although this vessel has been fitted out in the completest manner,
and every attention paid to mooring her properly, yet, as all
floating-lights are liable to break adrift in tempestuous weather,
mariners are requested not to neglect their landmarks, and to run with
caution for the floating-light.
“The Pharos being also intended to answer the purpose of a store-ship,
while the light-house is building on the Bell Rock, it may be found
necessary, in the course of the works, to alter her present station, of
which due notice will be given.”
_Commencement of the Operations on the Bell Rock._
[Sidenote: 1807, August.]
As the commencement of works of masonry, requiring stones of large
dimensions, is unavoidably tedious, especially in the collecting of
materials, we shall at present only notice, that the Light-house
Board having resolved on the use partly of granite and partly of
sandstone, for the erection at the Bell Rock, measures were duly taken
for procuring a supply of the former from the quarry of Rubeslaw
near Aberdeen, and of the latter from Mylnefield near Dundee. But,
instead of following out this part of our subject in its order, we
shall first proceed to a detail of the operations _afloat_, as they
may be termed, or of the works upon the rock itself, during the season
of 1807,--particularly of the erection of the principal beams of the
beacon-house, or temporary residence for the artificers on the rock,
and of the progress made in the preparation of the foundation or site
of the main building.
[Sidenote: Sloop Smeaton.]
We therefore observe, that a vessel had been built at Leith, in the
course of the spring, expressly for the Bell Rock service, to be
employed as a tender for the floating-light, and as a stone-lighter for
the use of the work. This vessel was launched in the month of June; she
measured 40 tons register, was rigged as a sloop, and fitted in all
respects in the strongest manner, to adapt her as much as possible for
the perilous service in which she was to be employed. She was called
The Smeaton,--a name which the writer had great pleasure in suggesting,
as a mark of respect for the memory of the celebrated engineer of
the Eddystone Light-house, whose narrative was to become a kind of
text-book for the Bell Rock operations. The Smeaton was ready for sea
in the beginning of August, and reached Arbroath upon the 5th day of
that month. Arbroath being the most contiguous harbour to the Bell
Rock, naturally pointed out itself as the proper place for establishing
the works, and preparing the materials, before shipping them for the
rock. The writer had, accordingly, been here for some time, making the
necessary preparations; and when the Smeaton arrived, he found himself
in a condition for commencing the operations, in a systematic manner,
upon the rock itself.
[Sidenote: The Positions of the Light-House and Beacon fixed on.]
The floating-light rode in safety at her moorings, and had hitherto
been supplied with necessaries by the Yacht belonging to the general
service of the Light-house Board. In this vessel, occasional trips
had also been made to the rock; but on the arrival of the Smeaton,
the Yacht sailed on a voyage, with stores for the use of the Northern
Light-houses. In these preliminary trips, the writer had fixed, in his
own mind, upon the parts of the rock most favourable for the position
of the light-house, and on the south-west of it, he chose the site of
the beacon-house, that it might be sheltered, in some measure, from the
breach of the north-east sea; and by placing them contiguous, or about
twenty-five feet apart, they admitted of a ready communication with
each other in the more advanced stages of the work.
[Sidenote: 1807, 7th August.]
[Sidenote: First trip of the Artificers to the Bell Rock.]
The Smeaton having got on board necessaries for the floating-light, and
three sets of chain-moorings with mushroom-anchors, and large floating
buoys, the writer sailed on another preliminary visit to the Bell Rock
on the 7th day of August, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, foreman
builder, and five artificers, selected, on this occasion, from their
having been somewhat accustomed to the sea; the writer being aware
of the distressing trial which the floating-light would necessarily
inflict upon landsmen, from her rolling motion. Here he remained till
the 10th, and as the weather was favourable, a landing was effected
daily, when the workmen were employed in cutting the large sea-weed
from the sites of the light-house and beacon, which were respectively
traced with pick-axes upon the rock. In the mean time, the crew of the
Smeaton was employed in laying down the several sets of moorings within
about half a mile of the rock, for the conveniency of vessels riding at
the buoys by a hawser, instead of letting go an anchor, which, in that
situation, could seldom have been purchased or lifted again, as it
would constantly have hooked the rocky bottom, a disadvantage to which
the mushroom anchor, from its figure and construction, is not liable,
as will be understood by examining the diagram representing it in Plate
X. Fig. 4. The artificers having fortunately experienced moderate
weather, returned to the work-yard at Arbroath, with a good report of
their treatment afloat; when their comrades ashore began to feel some
anxiety to see a place of which they had heard so much, and to change
the constant operation with the iron and mallet in the process of
hewing, for an occasional tide’s work on the rock, which they figured
to themselves as a state of comparative ease and comfort.
[Sidenote: Rate of Artificers’ wages fixed on.]
In answer to some advances which had been made on this subject by
the artificers, the foreman was instructed to select fourteen of the
stone-cutters, who had been accustomed to the use of the pick-axe,
and to boring or drilling holes with a jumper, after the manner of
quarriers, to go off to the rock in the course of a few days. When
these men, however, came to be spoken to more closely, some of them
were disposed to hold their services rather at a high rate, demanding
two guineas per week if they were to find their own provisions, and L.
1, 10s. if provisions were found to them. But they were informed, that
the nominal rate of wages was to be L. 1 per week, being the same for
those employed at the rock, as for those in the work-yard at Arbroath.
The artificers at the rock were, in addition, to have their provisions,
with certain premiums, to be arranged in the further progress of the
work, particularly for each tide’s work on Sunday, which was to be
accounted and paid for as a day’s work. After a good deal of trouble,
two or three of the men acceded to the foreman’s proposals, others
refused to engage themselves, excepting at the highest rate; while
a third party objected only to working on Sunday. In any agreement
to be entered into, it was held as an express condition, “That every
man who embarked for the work at the Bell Rock, should remain for the
space of four weeks, without returning ashore.” Those chiefly wanted
at this time were masons from Aberdeen, who were accustomed to the
use of the boring-iron and pick, in working granite. Being engaged
only from week to week in the work-yard, they were desirous of knowing
the reason for remaining a month at the rock; when they were informed
that it was not unlikely some of them might suffer from sea sickness,
and wearying of confinement on board of ship, might wish to return
ashore, which would be attended with much inconveniency to the work,
by too frequent a change of hands. They were further told, that, by
continuing for one month afloat, they would, in the course of that
time, become so sea-hardy as probably to feel no desire to return till
the end of the working-season, which, at this advanced period, could
not last for many weeks. This condition was considered of importance in
the commencement of the work, and it was the more readily agreed to, as
the writer assured them that he should himself remain with them during
that period. As one condition, however, had been made to the Aberdeen
masons, they felt no hesitation in proposing another on their own part,
and they accordingly handed the following offer of service, addressed
to the foreman, dated 12th August 1807, which, from the tenor of the
document, we shall here insert.
[Sidenote: Letter from the Aberdeen Masons.]
“In consequence of our communing with one another concerning the Bell
Rock, we hereby agree to stay with you from the above date, till August
1808, being twelve months certain, and to take our turn at whatever
work may start up concerning the Bell Rock business,--only, it is to
be understood, that the rest of the masons must take turn and turn
about with us: the terms of our agreement to be 20s. per week, summer
and winter, wet and dry, with free quarters ashore, and likewise
our victuals when we are at the rock.--As for the Sunday’s work and
premiums, we leave that to the honour of our employers. (Signed)
William Bonyman, John Bruce, John Cruickshanks, Alexander Sherif, John
Bonyman, Alexander Davidson, James Macdonald, Robert Ferres, John
Mason, William Chalmers.”
Every thing being arranged for sailing to the rock on Saturday the
15th, the vessel might have proceeded on the Sunday; but understanding
that this would not be so agreeable to the artificers it was deferred
until Monday. Here we cannot help observing, that the men allotted
for the operations at the rock seemed to enter upon the undertaking
with a degree of consideration, which fully marked their opinion as
to the hazardous nature of the undertaking on which they were about
to enter. They went in a body to church on Sunday, and whether it
was in the ordinary course, or designed for the occasion, the writer
is not certain, but the service was, in many respects, suitable to
their circumstances. Indeed, the Reverend Mr GLEG, the minister of the
parish, was in the constant habit of enquiring after the success and
safety of the works. Throughout this day the weather was remarkably
serene, and the best hopes were entertained of a favourable tract of
weather, which the inhabitants of Arbroath were disposed to consider as
an omen of good fortune.
[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: Twenty-four Artificers embark for the Rock.]
The tide happening to fall late in the evening of Monday the 17th, the
party, counting twenty-four in number, embarked on board of the Smeaton
about 10 o’clock P. M., and sailed from Arbroath with a gentle breeze
at west. Our ship’s colours having been flying all day in compliment
to the commencement of the work, the other vessels in the harbour also
saluted, which made a very gay appearance. A number of the friends and
acquaintances of those on board having been thus collected, the piers,
though at a late hour, were perfectly crowded, and just as the Smeaton
cleared the harbour, all on board united in giving three hearty cheers,
which were returned by those on shore in such good earnest, that,
in the still of the evening, the sound must have been heard in all
parts of the town, re-echoing from the walls and lofty turrets of the
venerable Abbey of Aberbrothwick. The writer felt much satisfaction at
the manner of this parting scene; though he must own, that the present
rejoicing was, on his part, mingled with occasional reflections upon
the responsibility of his situation, which extended to the safety of
all who should be engaged in this perilous work. With such sensations
he retired to his cabin; but as the artificers were rather inclined
to move about the deck than to remain in their confined births below,
his repose was transient, and the vessel being small, every motion was
necessarily heard. Some who were musically inclined occasionally sung;
but he listened with peculiar pleasure to the sailor at the helm, who
hummed over Dibdin’s characteristic air,
“They say there’s a Providence sits up aloft,
To keep watch for the life of Poor Jack.”
_Erection of the Beacon-House._
The weather had been very gentle all night, and, about four in the
morning of the 18th, the Smeaton anchored on the spot where it was
intended to lay down an additional set of chain-moorings which she
had on board. Agreeably to an arranged plan of operations, all hands
were called at 5 o’clock, A. M., just as the highest part of the Bell
Rock began to shew its sable head among the light breakers, which
occasionally whitened with the foaming sea. The two boats belonging to
the floating-light attended the Smeaton, to carry the artificers to the
rock, as her boat could only accommodate about six or eight sitters.
Every one was more eager than his neighbour to leap into the boats, and
it required a good deal of management on the part of the coxswains,
to get men unaccustomed to a boat, to take their places for rowing and
at the same time trimming her properly. The landing-master and foreman
went into one boat, while the writer took charge of another, and
steered it to and from the rock. This became the more necessary in the
early stages of the work, as places could not be spared for more than
two, or at most three seamen to each boat, who were always stationed,
one at the bow, to use the boat-hook in fending or pushing off, and the
other at the aftermost oar, to give the proper time in rowing, while
the middle oars were double banked, and rowed by the artificers.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: Commence work at 6 A. M.]
As the weather was extremely fine, with light airs of wind from the
east, we landed without difficulty upon the central part of the rock
at half-past 5, but the water had not yet sufficiently left it for
commencing the work. This interval, however, did not pass unoccupied;
the first and last of all the principal operations at the Bell Rock
were accompanied by three hearty cheers from all hands, and, on
occasions like the present, the steward of the ship attended, when
each man was regaled with a glass of rum. As the water left the rock
about 6, some began to bore the holes for the great bats or holdfasts,
for fixing the beams of the Beacon-house, while the smith was fully
attended in laying out the site of his forge, upon a somewhat sheltered
spot of the rock, which also recommended itself from the vicinity
of a pool of water for tempering his irons. These preliminary steps
occupied about an hour, and as nothing further could be done during
this tide towards fixing the forge, the workmen gratified their
curiosity, by roaming about the rock, which they investigated with
great eagerness till the tide overflowed it. Those who had been sick
picked dulse (_Fucus palmatus_), which they ate with much seeming
appetite; others were more intent upon collecting limpets for bait,
to enjoy the amusement of fishing when they returned on board of the
vessel. Indeed none came away empty handed, as every thing found
upon the Bell Rock was considered valuable, being connected with
some interesting association. Several coins, and numerous bits of
shipwrecked iron were picked up, of almost every description; and, in
particular, a marking-iron lettered JAMES,--a circumstance of which it
was thought proper to give notice to the public, as it might lead to
the knowledge of some unfortunate shipwreck, perhaps unheard of till
this simple occurrence led to the discovery. When the rock began to be
overflowed, the landing-master arranged the crews of the respective
boats, appointing twelve persons to each. According to a rule, which
the writer had laid down to himself, he was always the last person who
left the rock. Another maxim was, to allow the landing-master’s boat
to proceed about twice or three times her own length a-head of the
other boats, that in case of accident he might be ready to assist; and
when he had thus cleared the rock, he waited till the others got out of
the respective creeks; after which they proceeded in company. Upon the
present occasion, the boats reached the tender about half-past 8, after
having been two hours upon the rock, and three hours absent from the
ship.
In a short time, the Bell Rock was laid completely under water, and
the weather being extremely fine, the sea was so smooth, that its
place could not be pointed out from the appearance of the surface,--a
circumstance which sufficiently demonstrates the dangerous nature of
this rock, even during the day, and in the smoothest and calmest state
of the sea. During the interval between the morning and the evening
tides, the artificers were variously employed in fishing and reading,
others were busy in drying and adjusting their wet clothes, and one or
two amused their companions with the violin and German-flute.
[Sidenote: Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock.]
About 7 in the evening the signal bell for landing on the rock was
again rung, when every man was at his quarters. In this service
it was thought more appropriate to use the bell than to _pipe_ to
quarters, as the use of this instrument is less known to the mechanic
than the sound of the bell. The landing, as in the morning, was at
the eastern harbour. During this tide, the sea-weed was pretty well
cleared from the site of the operations, and also from the tracks
leading to the different landing-places; for walking upon the rugged
surface of the Bell Rock, when covered with sea-weed, was found to
be extremely difficult, and even dangerous. Every hand that could
possibly be occupied, was now employed in assisting the smith to fit
up the apparatus for his forge. The frame-work of iron, forming the
hearth, was now got into its place; and the four legs which supported
it were let into holes, bored from six to twelve inches into the rock,
according to the inequalities of the site: and then firmly wedged,
first with wood, and then with iron, a method followed in all the
operations of batting at the Bell Rock, and found greatly preferable to
running in melted lead. The block of timber for supporting the anvil
was fixed in the same manner, on which the anvil was simply laid,
without any other fixture than the small stud, fitted as usual into
its seat, depending upon the gravity of the mass for preserving its
place against the effects of the sea. In this state things were left
on the rock at 9 P. M., when the boats returned to the tender, after
other two hours work, in the same order as formerly, perhaps as much
gratified with the success that attended the work of this day, as with
any other in the whole course of the operations. Although it could not
be said that the fatigues of this day had been great, yet all on board
retired early to rest. The sea being calm, and no movement on deck, it
was pretty generally remarked in the morning, that the bell awakened
the greater number on board from their first sleep; and, though this
observation was not altogether applicable to the writer himself, yet he
was not a little pleased to find, that thirty people could all at once
become so reconciled to a night’s quarters within a few hundred paces
of the Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.]
[Sidenote: Landing-master’s duty.]
It was a rule laid down and adhered to by the writer, throughout the
whole of the Bell Rock works, that, as far as possible, the charge
should be arranged into departments. It therefore fell to the officer
termed the _Landing-master_, who was also master of the Floating-light,
to take the responsibility of the safe and proper landing of the
artificers and materials upon the rock. With him, the writer generally
arranged the business of the following day; his crew watched the ebbing
of the water, and the appearance of the rock, and from the state of the
weather, he judged of the proper time for causing the signal bell to be
rung, when the boats were to leave the ship for the rock. It was also a
special injunction laid upon him to say, from the state of the weather,
when it was necessary for the boats to leave the rock and return to the
tender.
[Sidenote: Indications of the weather.]
Being extremely anxious at this time to get forward with fixing the
smith’s forge, on which the progress of the work at present depended,
the writer requested that he might be called at day-break to learn
the landing-master’s opinion of the weather, from the appearance of
the rising sun, a criterion by which experienced seamen can generally
judge pretty accurately of the state of the weather for the following
day. About 5 o’clock, on coming upon deck, the sun’s upper limb or disk
had just begun to appear, as if rising from the ocean; and in less
than a minute he was seen in the fullest splendour; but after a short
interval he was enveloped in a soft cloudy sky, which was considered
emblematical of fine weather. His rays had not yet sufficiently
dispelled the clouds which hid the land from view, and the Bell Rock
being still overflowed, the whole was one expanse of water. This scene
in itself was highly gratifying; and when the morning bell was tolled,
we were gratified with the happy forebodings of good weather, and the
expectation of having both a morning and an evening tide’s work on the
rock.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.]
The boats left the ship at a quarter before 7 this morning, and landed
upon the rock at 7. The water had gone off the rock sooner than was
expected, for, as yet, the seamen were but imperfectly acquainted with
its periodic appearance, and the landing-master being rather late with
his signal this morning, the artificers were enabled to proceed to work
without a moment’s delay. The boat which the writer steered happened to
be the last which approached the rock at this tide; and, in standing
up in the stern, while at some distance, to see how the leading boat
entered the creek, he was astonished to observe something in the form
of a human figure, in a reclining posture, upon one of the ledges of
the rock: he immediately steered the boat through a narrow entrance to
the eastern harbour, with a thousand unpleasant sensations in his mind.
He thought a vessel or boat must have been wrecked upon the rock during
the night; and it seemed probable that the rock might be strewed with
dead bodies, a spectacle which could not fail to deter the artificers
from returning so freely to their work. Even one individual found in
this situation, would naturally cast a damp upon their minds, and, at
all events, make them much more timid in their future operations. In
the midst of these reveries, the boat took the ground at an improper
landing place; but, without waiting to push her off, he leapt upon
the rock, and making his way hastily to the spot which had privately
given him alarm, he had the satisfaction to ascertain, that he had
only been deceived by the peculiar situation and aspect of the smith’s
anvil and block, which very completely represented the appearance of
a lifeless body upon the rock. The writer carefully suppressed his
feelings, the simple mention of which might have had a bad effect upon
the artificers, and his haste passed for an anxiety to examine the
apparatus of the smith’s forge, left in an unfinished state at the
evening tide.
[Sidenote: Dangerous situation in foggy weather.]
After an excellent tide’s work of three hours at the forge, and boring
the bat-holes for fixing the Beacon-house, we again took to our boats,
and left the rock at 10 o’clock, the one boat preceding and waiting
for the other till it cleared the rock, as formerly. In the course of
this morning’s work, two or three apparently distant peals of thunder
were heard, and the atmosphere suddenly became thick and foggy. But
as the Smeaton, our present tender, was moored at no great distance
from the rock, the crew on board continued blowing with a horn, and
occasionally fired a musket, so that the boats got to the ship without
difficulty. The occurrence of thick weather, however, became a serious
consideration, in looking forward to the necessary change of quarters
to the Pharos, distant about one mile from the rock, instead of a few
hundred yards, as in the case of the Smeaton.
[Sidenote: Artificers amuse themselves with fishing.]
The continuation of the thick and foggy weather was transient, being
what seamen term an easterly _hoar_, arising from the heat of the
weather, which disappeared soon after mid-day. The weather being clear
in the evening, the boats landed again at half-past 6 o’clock, when
the artificers were employed for two hours, as in the morning, and
returned again to the ship about a quarter past 8. The remainder of
the day-light was eagerly spent in catching fish, which were got, at
this time, in great abundance, both alongside of the vessel and in the
boats at a distance; and in the course of an hour about five dozen of
codlings were caught, which not only afforded an agreeable relaxation,
but afforded a plentiful dish of fish for the different messes on board.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: Complete the fixing of the smith’s forge.]
The wind this morning inclined from the north-east, and the sky had a
heavy and cloudy appearance, but the sea was smooth, though there was
an undulating motion on the surface, which indicated easterly winds,
and occasioned a slight surf upon the rock. But the boats found no
difficulty in landing at the western creek at half-past 7, and, after a
good tide’s work, left it again about a quarter from 11. In the evening
the artificers landed at half-past 7, and continued till half-past
8, having completed the fixing of the smith’s forge, his vice, and a
wooden board or bench, which were also batted to a ledge of the rock,
to the great joy of all, under a salute of three hearty cheers. From
an oversight on the part of the smith, who had neglected to bring his
tinder-box and matches from the vessel, the work was prevented from
being continued for at least an hour longer.
[Sidenote: Valuable services of the smith at the Bell Rock.]
[Sidenote: Much wanted at the Eddystone.]
It may here be proper to notice, that although a considerable
quantity of jumpers or boring-irons, picks, and other quarry-tools,
had been brought, in good order, for the use of the work; yet, from
the extent of work in preparing the foundations, together with the
hard and compact nature of the sandstone, of which the Bell Rock is
composed, the tools soon became blunt, and the work must have often
been completely at a stand, had it not been for the conveniency of
having a smith and his forge so near at hand. The writer doubts not
that his readers may be at a loss to account for the operation of the
bellows and other apparatus upon a sunken rock, and it may therefore
be necessary, in the accompanying description of the plates of this
work, to give some explanation of this _arcanum_ of Vulcan, on which
the work had so great a dependence. The smith’s shop, represented
in Plate XI. was of course in _open space_: the large bellows were
carried to and from the rock every tide, for the serviceable condition
of which, together with the tinder-box, fuel and embers of the former
fire, the smith was held responsible. Those who have been placed in
situations to feel the inconveniency and want of this useful artizan,
will be able to appreciate his value in a case like the present. Mr
Smeaton often felt the want of a forge permanently upon the rock,
and had the foundation of the Eddystone Light-house required more
extensive preparations, this useful implement could hardly have been
dispensed with; but the Eddystone rock was so small as hardly to
have room for it, in addition to other no less necessary apparatus.
Could the operations of the blacksmith, at the Bell Rock, have been
continued, from the commencement of the operations, even for half an
hour longer every tide than the pickmen or quarriers, it would have
added much to the facilities and progress of the work. But a stage or
platform, in that case, must have been erected, to which there were a
number of intervening obstacles, that more than counter-balanced the
temporary inconveniency felt from the want of this additional time.
It often happened, to our annoyance and disappointment, in the early
state of the work, when the smith was in the middle of a _favourite
heat_, in making some useful article, or in sharpening the tools,
after the flood-tide had obliged the pickmen to strike work, a sea
would come rolling over the rocks, dash out the fire, and endanger his
indispensable implement the bellows; or if the sea was smooth, while
the smith often stood at work knee-deep in water, the tide rose by
imperceptible degrees, first cooling the exterior of the fire-place,
or hearth, and then quietly blackening and extinguishing the fire from
below. The writer has frequently been amused at the perplexing anxiety
of the blacksmith, when coaxing his fire, and endeavouring to avert
the effects of the rising tide. In this state of things, the erection
of the Beacon was looked forward to as a happy period, when the smith
should be removed above the reach of the highest tides.
[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: Seals desert the Bell Rock.]
The weather still continued to be very fine; though the winds
were variable, they rather prevailed from the eastward, and were
occasionally accompanied with a hazy atmosphere, inclining to fog. The
boats landed to-day upon the rock at half-past 7 o’clock A. M., and
left it at a quarter past 11, the artificers having had an excellent
tide’s work of three hours and three-quarters. Every thing connected
with the forge being now completed, the artificers found no want of
sharp tools, and the work went forward with great alacrity and spirit.
It was also alleged that the rock had a more habitable appearance, from
the volumes of smoke which ascended from the smith’s shop; and the busy
noise of his anvil; the operations of the masons; the movements of the
boats, and shipping at a distance, all contributed to give life and
activity to the scene. This noise and traffic had, however, the effect
of almost completely banishing the herd of seals which had hitherto
frequented the rock as a resting place, during the period of low
water. Though these animals were thus prevented from reposing upon the
higher parts of the rock, yet they ventured, for a time, to lie upon
the more detached outlayers which dry partially: here they seemed to
look with that sort of curiosity which is observable in these animals
when following a boat. But after the smith established himself, it was
rare to see more than one or two of these amphibious animals about
the rock, which seemed to be peculiarly adapted to their habits; for,
excepting two or three days at neap tides, a part of it always dries
at low water, at least during the summer season; and as there was good
fishing ground in the neighbourhood, without a human being to disturb
or molest them, it had become a very favourite residence of the seal,
if we may judge from their numbers, the writer having occasionally
counted from fifty to sixty of these animals playing about the rock
at a time. But when they came to be disturbed every tide, and their
seclusion was broke in upon by the kindling of great fires, together,
with the beating of hammers and picks during low water, after hovering
about for a time, they changed their place, and seldom more than one or
two were to be seen about the rock. The writer felt a desire to protect
these animals, with a view to observe their habits, and in hopes of
taming them, at least so far as he had observed was done at the Small’s
Light-house, off the coast of Pembrokeshire, another favourite resort
of seals, where, by gentle treatment, they have become so tame and
familiar as to eat bread out of the hands of the light-keepers. But
here, indeed, they constantly find a resting place, as some of the
Small’s rocks are always above water.
[Sidenote: Progress of the work.]
[Sidenote: Hampered state of the artificers.]
We had now been six days out from Arbroath, and, in that time, had
the good fortune to have seven successive tides’ work upon the rock,
during which, the smith’s forge had been fixed, and twelve holes of 2
inches in diameter and 18 inches in depth, had been bored or drilled
into the rock, in the process of excavating the bat or stanchion-holes
for fixing the principal beams of the Beacon-house. Hitherto the
artificers had remained on board of the Smeaton, which was made fast
to one of the mooring buoys, at the distance only of about a quarter
of a mile from the rock, and of course a very great conveniency to
the work. Being so near, the seamen could never be mistaken as to the
progress of the tide, or state of the sea upon the rock, nor could the
boats be much at a loss to pull on board of the vessel during fog,
or even in very rough weather; as she could be cast loose from her
moorings at pleasure, and brought to the lee side of the rock. But
the Smeaton being only about forty register tons, her accommodations
were extremely limited. It may, therefore, be easily imagined, that an
addition of twenty-four persons to her own crew, must have rendered the
situation of those on board rather uncomfortable. This vessel served
as a tender only in fine weather, with the assistance of the boats of
the floating-light, for she could not stow boats sufficiently large
for attending the rock with such a complement of artificers. The only
place for the men’s hammocks on board being in the hold, they were
unavoidably much crowded; and if the weather had required the hatches
to be fastened down, so great a number of men could not possibly have
been accommodated. To add to this evil, the _co-boose_ or cooking place
being upon deck, it would not have been possible to have cooked for so
large a company in the event of bad weather.
The stock of water was now getting short, and some necessaries being
also wanted for the floating-light, the Smeaton was dispatched for
Arbroath; and the writer with the artificers, at the same time, shifted
their quarters from her to the floating-light.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a tender.]
The operations still continued to be favoured with pleasant weather;
to-day there were light airs of wind from south-east, and the morning
bell was rung at 6. Although the rock barely made its appearance at
this period of the tides till 8 o’clock, yet, having now a full mile
to row from the floating-light to the rock, instead of about a quarter
of a mile from the moorings of the Smeaton, it was necessary to be
earlier astir, and to form different arrangements; breakfast was
accordingly served up at 7 o’clock this morning. From the excessive
motion of the floating-light, the writer had looked forward rather with
anxiety to the removal of the workmen to this ship. Some among them,
who had been congratulating themselves upon having become sea-hardy
while on board of the Smeaton, had a complete relapse on returning to
the floating-light. This was also the case with the writer. From the
spacious and convenient birthage of the floating-light, the exchange
to the artificers was, in this respect, much for the better. The boats
were also commodious, measuring sixteen feet in length on the keel, so
that, in fine weather, their complement of sitters was sixteen persons
for each, with which, however, they were rather crowded, but she could
not stow two boats of larger dimensions. When there was what is called
a breeze of wind, and a swell in the sea, the proper number for each
boat could not, with propriety, be rated at more than twelve persons.
The act of getting into or out of a boat, when alongside of the
floating-light, was at all times attended with more or less difficulty;
her rolling motion was so great, that the gunwale, though about five
feet above the surface of the water, she dipped nearly into it, upon
the one side, while her keel could not be far from the surface on
the other. This was her state, even in moderate weather, in certain
directions of the wind, especially for the period of about an hour,
when she was _thwarting_ to the tide, or rode in what sailors call the
_trough_ of the sea. The act of getting on board was then attended with
great difficulty, even to seamen, and was particularly so to landmen,
requiring all the attention which the landing-master could bestow, in
getting the artificers safely transferred from the boats to the ship,
and _vice versa_.
[Sidenote: Difficulty of getting on board and leaving the Pharos.]
When the tide-bell rung, the boats were hoisted out, and two active
seamen were employed to keep them from receiving damage alongside.
The floating-light being very buoyant, was so quick in her motions,
that when those who were about to step from her gunwale into a boat,
placed themselves upon a cleat or step on the ship’s side, with the man
or rail ropes in their hands, they had often to wait for some time,
till a favourable opportunity occurred for stepping into the boat.
While in this situation, with the vessel rolling from side to side,
watching the proper time for letting go the man-ropes, it required the
greatest dexterity and presence of mind to leap into the boat. One who
was rather awkward, would often wait a considerable period in this
position: at one time his side of the ship would be so depressed, that
he would touch the boat to which he belonged, while the next sea would
elevate him so much, that he would see his comrades in the boat on the
opposite side of the ship, his friends in the one boat calling to him
to “Jump,” while those in the boat on the other side, as he came again
and again into their view, would jocosely say, “Are you there yet?
You seem to enjoy a swing.” In this situation it was common to see a
person, upon each side of the ship, for a length of time, waiting to
quit his hold. A stranger to this sort of motion was both alarmed for
the safety, and delighted with the agility of persons leaping into the
boat, under those perilous circumstances. No sooner had one quitted
his station on the gunwale, than another occupied his place, until the
whole were safely shipped.
[Sidenote: Difficulty of keeping boats alongside.]
It also formed a critical operation with the sailors to keep the boats
at a convenient distance from the vessel, to guard against being too
far off; as, in that case, the man, in the act of stepping off the
ship’s side, might have been in danger of falling into the sea. If,
on the other hand, the boat was allowed to come in contact with the
vessel, she would have been in danger of being staved or damaged. This
state of things was fortunately not what we had to commence with,
as the weather happened to be, as before noticed, serene, and the
Smeaton’s sides were comparatively low in the water. The excessive
rolling of the Pharos did not therefore come upon the artificers all
at once, otherwise some unpleasant accidents must have happened, for
in these rolling operations, if a stranger had, in a moment of alarm,
let go his hold, at an improper time, he must have been pitched with
violence into the sea.
The party being seated in their respective boats, they were pulled to
the Bell Rock in about twenty minutes, from the moorings of the Pharos,
when the water was smooth and the wind moderate. This morning the
boats reached the rock at 8 o’clock; the work commenced exactly at a
quarter past 8, and at half-past 11, the water again began to overflow
the parts on which the artificers were at work. Every tide now gave
the writer more pleasant prospects of the progress of the work than
another, especially since the erection of the smith’s forge.
[Sidenote: Artificers become expert rowers.]
[Sidenote: Rations of artificers.]
On leaving the rock to-day, a trial of seamanship was proposed amongst
the rowers, for by this time the artificers had become tolerably expert
in this exercise. By inadvertency, some of the oars provided had been
made of fir instead of ash, and although a considerable stock had
been laid in, the workmen, being at first awkward in the art, were
constantly breaking their oars; indeed, it was no uncommon thing to see
the broken blades of a pair of oars floating astern, in the course of a
passage from the rock to the vessel. The men, upon the whole, had but
little work to perform in the course of a day; for though they exerted
themselves extremely hard while on the rock, yet, in the early state
of the operations, this could not be continued for more than three or
four hours at a time, and as their rations were large, consisting of
one pound and a half of beef,--one pound of ship-biscuit,--eight ounces
oatmeal,--two ounces barley,--two ounces butter,--three quarts of
beer,--with vegetables and salt, they got into excellent spirits, when
free of sea-sickness. The rowing of the boats against each other became
a favourite amusement; which was rather a fortunate circumstance, as
it must have been attended with much inconvenience, had it been found
necessary to employ a sufficient number of sailors for this purpose.
The writer, therefore, encouraged this spirit of emulation, and the
speed of their respective boats became a favourite topic. Premiums for
boat races were also instituted, which were contended for with great
eagerness, and the respective crews kept their stations in the boats,
with as much precision as they kept their beds on board of the ship.
With these, and other pastimes, when the weather was favourable, the
time passed away, among the inmates of the fore-castle and waist of the
ship. The writer looks back with interest upon the hours of solitude
which he spent in this lonely ship, with his small library.
[Sidenote: “Saturday night at Sea.”]
This being the first Saturday that the artificers were afloat, all
hands were served with a glass of rum and water at night, to drink the
sailors favourite toast of “Wives and Sweethearts.” It was customary,
upon these occasions, for the seamen and artificers to collect in the
galley, when the musical instruments were put in requisition; for,
according to invariable practice, every man must play a tune, sing a
song, or tell a story. In this manner Saturday night, in particular,
passed away in a very happy manner, when much boisterous mirth and
loud peals of laughter occasionally broke forth. It is true, that this
could not proceed from a single glass, but every man sat down with
a determination to be pleased. They had, besides, a pretty liberal
allowance of good small beer, which the rations of the sick increased;
and they contrived to make the glass go round, and seemed to feel no
want whatever, while the ship kept from her excessive rolling motion.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 23d.]
The operations at the Bell Rock were still fortunate with regard to
the weather. The morning of Sunday set in with light airs from the
south-west, which, towards mid-day, came to what sailors term fresh
breezes, but towards evening it fell calm, and the weather became
foggy.
[Sidenote: Reasons for continuing the work on Sunday.]
To some, it may require an apology, or, at least, call for an
explanation, why the writer took upon himself to step aside from
the established rules of society, by carrying on the works of this
undertaking during Sundays. Such practices are not uncommon in the
dock-yards and arsenals, when it is conceived that the public service
requires extraordinary exertions. Surely, if, under any circumstances,
it is allowable to go about the ordinary labours of mankind on Sundays,
that of the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock, seems to
be one of the most pressing calls which could in any case occur, and
carries along with it the imperious language of necessity. When we take
into consideration, that, in its effects, this work was to operate
in a direct manner for the safety of many valuable lives and much
property, the beautiful and simple parables of the Holy Scriptures,
inculcating works of necessity and mercy, must present themselves to
every mind unbiassed by the trammels of form or the influence of a
distorted imagination. In this perilous work, to give up every seventh
day, would just have been to protract the time a seventh part. Now, as
it was generally supposed, after taking all advantages into view, that
the work would probably require seven years for its execution, such an
arrangement must have extended the operation to at least eight years,
and have exposed it to additional risk and danger, in all its stages.
The writer, therefore, felt little scruple in continuing the Bell Rock
works in all favourable states of the weather.
[Sidenote: Preparations for reading prayers on deck.]
Having, on the previous evening, arranged matters with the
landing-master as to the business of the day, the signal was rung
for all hands at half past 7 this morning. In the early state of the
spring-tides, the artificers went to the rock before breakfast, but
as the tides fell later in the day, it became necessary to take this
meal before leaving the ship. At 8 o’clock all hands were assembled on
the quarter-deck for prayers, a solemnity which was gone through in as
orderly a manner as circumstances would admit. Round the quarter-deck,
when the weather permitted, the flags of the ship were hung up as an
awning or screen, forming the quarter-deck into a distinct compartment
with colours; the pendant was also hoisted at the main-mast, and a
large ensign flag was displayed over the stern; and, lastly, the ship’s
companion, or top of the staircase, was covered with the _flag proper_
of the Light-house Service, on which the Bible was laid. A particular
toll of the bell called all hands to the quarter-deck, when the writer
read a chapter of the Bible, and, the whole ship’s company being
uncovered, he also read the following impressive prayer, composed by
the Reverend Dr Brunton, one of the ministers of Edinburgh.
_A Prayer for the use of those Employed at the Erection of the Bell
Rock Light-House._
“Almighty and ever blessed God! Thou art not confined to temples made
with man’s hands: The temple most acceptable to thee is the heart of
thy worshipper: Thou hast promised, that wherever thy servants are
assembled, thou wilt be with them, to bless them and to do them good.
Unto us, O our Father! may the promise be fulfilled. Even here, where
no temple invites, and where no ordinances cheer us, be with us, we
beseech thee, while we meet in thy presence; and strengthen us to
discharge the duties of thy holy day.
“The Sabbath was appointed to celebrate thy creating power: And here,
where the magnificence of thy works surrounds us,--where we see thy
wonders in the deep,--where we behold every morning thy Sun arise
from the world of waters, to spread, as at the first, light and
beauty over Nature,--shall not our souls pour forth abundantly the
tribute of adoration to thee, whose word alone spake the Universe
into being!
“The Sabbath commemorates that Providence which watcheth continually
over the works of thy hand: And shall not we, whom dangers so often
threaten, and whom difficulties so often alarm; shall not we,
conscious of our frailty, and removed far from human aid; shall not
we raise the voice of thanksgiving to God, who alone protecteth us,
and who, even in the midst of danger, causeth us to dwell in safety!
“The Sabbath was appointed to commemorate the triumphs of redeeming
love: And shall not we hail it with delight, whose earliest infancy
was hallowed in the name of Jesus; on whose opening minds the
doctrines of his faith were poured; who, even in this remote abode,
are permitted to call upon thy holy name in prayer,--to read the
Oracles of everlasting truth,--to speak one to another of the God who
hath loved and blessed us!
“Our souls do magnify the Lord, our spirits rejoice in God our
Saviour; for he that is mighty hath done great things for his
people, and his mercy is on them that fear him. We bless thee for
the doctrines which our Master taught,--for the example which he set
before us,--for the atonement by which he relieves us from the load
of guilt,--for the hope which he hath restored of grace and glory.
We bless thee for the institutions which thou hast appointed for
enlightening thy people in religious knowledge, and for training
them to lives of usefulness and purity. With shame we remember how
often we have abused our Christian privileges,--how often we have
neglected the exercises of private devotion,--how often we have
failed to study thy holy word,--how often, while yet it was in our
power to go up to the house of God, we have forsaken the assembling
of ourselves together,--how often we have worshipped thee with our
lips, while our hearts were far from thee. Visit us not, O God! in
anger, for our transgression; but do thou enable us to lament and
forsake it. Let not the circumstances in which we now are placed, be
permitted to wean our affections from thy worship. But, while the
service of humanity calls us to labour even on this day of rest,
save us,--O thou, who wilt have mercy and not sacrifice!--save us
from the temptation which might lead us to forget our God, and the
duties which we owe to him. Rather, while we are deprived of thine
ordinances for a season, do thou give us grace, through prayer and
holy meditation, to compensate the loss; that we may, with delight,
look forward to the time when the courts of thy sanctuary shall be
opened to us again; when we, and those whom we love and value, shall
again take sweet counsel together, and walk in company to the house
of God. Give to us, even now, O God of our salvation! those pious
and holy dispositions which will prepare us for the nobler worship,
offered to thee by the Angels of Heaven, and by the Spirits of just
men made perfect.
“We pray to our common Father in behalf of all mankind. May the
day-spring from on high arise on those who now sit in darkness; and,
where the light of the Gospel already shines, may its influences be
felt reviving and purifying.
“We pray especially for our native land;--for her peace,--her
prosperity,--her liberties,--and her honour. We pray for our king,
and for all who are in authority over us. We pray particularly for
those by whose command we are engaged in this arduous work. Bless
them in their persons, in their families, and in the discharge of
their official duty. Prosper, we beseech thee, the work itself in
which we are engaged. May it remain long after our eyes have ceased
to behold it. Long after our ashes are cold in the dust, may he that
was ready to perish have cause to bless the memory of those by whom
it was reared.
“We pray for the people of our land. Purify them unto thyself a
peculiar people, zealous of good works: Bless them in their commerce,
and in their harvests: Bless them in the pursuits of honest industry:
Bless them in the relations of domestic life: Bless them, above all,
with spiritual blessings in Christ Jesus.
“May the sons and daughters of affliction be enabled to profit by
the bitter lesson with which thou hast seen it meet to visit them.
Restore the sick to usefulness, or prepare the dying for judgment and
eternity. May the living lay it to heart that they must die, and act
as it becometh those who know not how soon they shall be called hence.
“Our friends and families, from whom we are separated for a time,
we commit to thy protection, O God of love! Unspeakably precious is
the thought, that thou carest for them,--that thine eye is upon them
continually,--and thine everlasting arms around them. Grant that,
in thy good time, we may meet them in peace;--Grant that we may be
united hereafter in that land where separation and pain are unknown
for ever.
“Our enemies we beseech thee to forgive and bless. Bless us, even us
also, O our Father! Give us thy grace in every season of trial;--give
us thy protection in every hour of danger. Prepare us for the
dispensations of thy Providence;--prepare us for the discharge of
duty;--prepare us for the inheritance of the just.
“And may grace, and mercy, and peace, from the Father, the Son, and
the Holy Ghost, be with us for ever.”
[Sidenote: Some of the artificers decline working on Sunday.]
Upon concluding this service, which was attended with becoming
reverence and attention, all on board retired to their respective
births to breakfast, and, at half-past 9, the bell again rung for the
artificers to take their stations in their respective boats. Some
demur having been evinced on board, about the propriety of working on
Sunday, which had hitherto been touched upon as delicately as possible,
all hands being called aft, the writer, from the quarter deck, stated
generally the nature of the service, expressing his hopes that every
man would feel himself called upon to consider the erection of a
light-house on the Bell Rock, in every point of view, as a work of
necessity and mercy. He knew that scruples had existed with some, and
these had, indeed, been fairly and candidly urged before leaving the
shore; but it was expected, that, after having seen the critical nature
of the rock, and the necessity of the measure, every man would now be
satisfied of the propriety of embracing all opportunities of landing on
the rock, when the state of the weather would permit; and, in short,
of exerting every effort in this as a common cause, at least until the
Beacon should be erected, being an undertaking, on which the lives and
safety of all connected with these works had a constant dependence. The
writer, farther, took them to witness, that it did not proceed from
want of respect for the appointments and established forms of religion
that he had himself adopted the resolution of attending the Bell Rock
works on the Sunday; but, as he hoped, from a conviction that it was
his bounden duty, on the strictest principles of morality. At the same
time it was intimated, that if any were of a different opinion, they
should be perfectly at liberty to hold their sentiments, without the
imputation of contumacy or disobedience; the only difference would be
in regard to the pay.
Upon stating this much, he stepped into his boat, requesting all
who were so disposed to follow him. The sailors, from their habits,
found no scruple on this subject, and all of the artificers, though a
little tardy, also embarked, excepting four of the masons, who, from
the beginning, mentioned that they would decline working on Sundays.
The boats reached the rock at a quarter past 10 o’clock A. M., and
after a very active tide’s work of two hours and a half, the water
again overflowed the rock. It may here be noticed, that throughout
the whole of the operations, it was observable that the men wrought,
if possible, with more keenness upon the Sundays than at other times,
from an impression that they were engaged in a work of imperious
necessity, which required every possible exertion. On returning to
the floating-light, after finishing the tide’s work, the boats were
received by the part of the ship’s crew left on board, with the usual
attention of handing ropes to the boats, and helping the artificers on
board; but the four masons who had absented themselves from the work
did not appear upon deck.
[Sidenote: Additional pay on Sunday.]
As the season advanced, the period of low water occurred later, and
the writer did not consider it advisable, in the present state of the
works, to land on the rock under night, there being nothing to mark
its place prior to the erection of the Beacon. Under more favourable
circumstances, he would willingly have landed this evening, to entitle
the artificers who accompanied him in the morning, to additional wages,
as every tide’s work on Sunday counted a day, according to the rate of
pay and premiums which he had laid down.
[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.]
[Sidenote: Neap-tides. Artificers working knee-deep in water.]
The weather, upon the whole, was very fine to-day, and the winds,
though variable, were gentle; but from the mildness of the season, it
got rather foggy towards the evening. The boats left the floating-light
at a quarter past 9 o’clock this morning, and the work began at
three-quarters past 9; but as the neap tides were approaching, the
working-time at the rock became gradually shorter, and it was now
with difficulty that two and a half hours work could be got. But, so
keenly had the workmen entered into the spirit of the Beacon-house
operations, that they continued to bore the holes in the rock till some
of them were knee deep in water. In this work the sailors were also
engaged, taking their turns at the boring and other works.
[Sidenote: Operations entirely confined to the Beacon.]
[Sidenote: Description of the operation of boring the rock.]
The operations at this time, were entirely directed to the erection
of the beacon, in which every man felt an equal interest, as at this
critical period the slightest casualty to any of the boats at the rock
might have been fatal to himself individually, while it was perhaps
peculiar to the writer more immediately to feel for the safety of the
whole. Each log or upright beam of the beacon, was to be fixed to
the rock by two strong and massive bats or stanchions of iron, of a
construction which will be better understood by inspecting the diagrams
on Plate VIII., and the accompanying description. These bats, for
the fixture of the principal and diagonal beams and bracing-chains,
required fifty-four holes, each measuring two inches in diameter, and
eighteen inches in depth. The operation of boring or drilling these
deep holes in the rock, was conducted with great dexterity in the
following manner: Three men were attached to each jumper or chisel; one
placed himself in a sitting posture, to guide the instrument and give
it a turn at each blow of the hammer; he also sponged or cleaned out
the hole, and supplied it occasionally with a little water; while the
other two, with hammers of sixteen pounds weight, struck the jumper
alternately, generally bringing the hammer with a swing round the
shoulder, after the manner of blacksmiths’ work. The three men relieved
each other in the operation of guiding the jumper and striking with
the hammers. The forms of the jumper, hammer, and sponging-rod, are
represented in Plate X., Figs. 7, 8, and 9. After many observations, as
to the time occupied in boring these holes, the writer found that, when
the tools were of a very good temper, they could be sunk at the rate of
one inch per minute, including stoppages. The holes for the stanchions,
when completed, measured seven inches in length, two inches in breadth,
and eighteen inches in depth. After a jumper had been sunk to the
necessary depth at each end of these holes, the most tedious part of
the operation was to cut out the piece of rock which remained between
the two jumper-holes, so as to clear it fully for the reception of the
great iron stanchions, which were of a dove-tail form.
[Sidenote: Progress of the work.]
There had already been so considerable a progress made in boring and
excavating these holes, that the writer’s hopes of getting the beacon
erected this year, began to be more and more confirmed, although it
was now advancing towards what was considered the latter end of the
proper working season at the Bell Rock. The foreman joiner, Mr Francis
Watt, was accordingly appointed to attend at the rock to-day, when the
necessary levels were taken for the step or seat of each particular
beam of the beacon, that they might be cut to their respective lengths,
to suit the inequalities of the rock; several of the stanchions were
also tried into their places, and other necessary observations made, to
prevent mistakes on the application of the apparatus, and to facilitate
the operations, when the beams came to be set up, which would require
to be done in the course of a single tide.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 25th.]
We had now experienced an almost unvaried tract of light airs of
easterly wind, with clear weather in the fore-part of the day, and
fog in the evenings. To-day, however, it sensibly changed; when the
wind came to the south-west, and blew a fresh breeze. At 9 A. M. the
bell rung, and the boats were hoisted out, and though the artificers
were now pretty well accustomed to tripping up and down the sides
of the floating-light, yet it required more seamanship this morning
than usual. It therefore afforded some merriment to those who had got
fairly seated in their respective boats, to see the difficulties which
attended their companions, from the hesitating manner in which they
quitted hold of the man-ropes in leaving the ship. As it blew pretty
fresh, the passage to the rock was tedious, and the boats did not reach
it till half-past 10. By working upon the higher parts of the site of
the beacon 1¼ hours work was got, though not without difficulty,
and the men left off at a quarter past 12 noon, completely drenched in
water.
[Sidenote: Difficult situation of the Smith.]
The masons and pickmen were employed in boring the bat-holes, and in
dressing and preparing the rock between the holes, at the places on
which the beams of the beacon-house were to rest. It being now the
period of neap-tides, the water only partially left the rock, and some
of the men, who were boring on the lower ledges of the site of the
beacon, stood knee-deep in water. The situation of the smith to-day
was particularly disagreeable, but his services were at all times
indispensable. As the tide did not leave the site of the forge, he
stood in the water, and as there was some roughness on the surface,
it was with considerable difficulty that, with the assistance of the
sailors, he was enabled to preserve alive his fire; and, while his
feet were immersed in water, his face was not only scorched, but
continually exposed to volumes of smoke, accompanied with sparks from
the fire, which were occasionally set up, owing to the strength and
direction of the wind.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.]
[Sidenote: Wind-gauge, and nomenclature for the winds much wanted.]
The wind had shifted this morning to N. NW. with rain, and was
blowing what sailors call a fresh breeze,--for as yet a correct
and efficient wind-gauge remains a desideratum with the mechanical
philosopher; and we have unfortunately no proper or satisfactory
nomenclature for expressing the force of the wind. To speak, perhaps,
somewhat intelligibly to the general reader, the wind was such, that a
fishing-boat could just carry full sail. The weather did not look very
favourable in the morning; but as it was of importance, especially in
the outset of the business, to keep up the spirit of enterprise for
landing on all practicable occasions, the writer, after consulting with
the landing-master, ordered the bell to be rung for embarking, and at
half-past 11 the boats reached the rock, and left it again at a quarter
past 12, without, however, being able to do much work, as the smith
could not be set to work from the smallness of the ebb and the strong
breach of sea, which lashed with great force among the bars of the
forge.
[Sidenote: Difficult passage from the Rock to the Floating-Light.]
Just as we were about to leave the rock, the wind shifted to the SW.,
and, from a fresh gale, it became what seamen term a hard gale, or
such as would have required the fisherman to take in two or three
reefs in his sail. The boats being rather in a crowded state for this
sort of weather, they were pulled with great difficulty towards the
floating-light. Though the boats were handsomely built, and presented
little obstruction to the wind, as those who were not pulling sat
low, yet having the ebb-tide to contend with, the passage was so very
tedious, that it required two hours of hard work before we reached the
vessel.
It is a curious fact, before noticed, that the respective tides of ebb
and flood are apparent upon the shore about an hour and a half sooner
than at the distance of three or four miles in the offing. But what
seems chiefly interesting here is, that the tides around this small
sunken rock should follow exactly the same laws as on the extensive
shores of the mainland. When the boats left the Bell Rock to-day, it
was overflowed by the flood-tide, but the floating-light did not swing
round to the flood-tide for more than an hour afterwards. Under this
disadvantage the boats had to struggle with the ebb-tide and a hard
gale of wind, so that it was with the greatest difficulty they reached
the floating-light. Had this gale happened in spring-tides when the
current was strong, we must have been driven to sea in a very helpless
condition.
[Sidenote: Life-buoy streamed.]
The boat which the writer steered, was considerably behind the other,
one of the masons having unluckily broken his oar. Our prospect of
getting on board, of course, became doubtful, and our situation was
rather perilous, as the boat shipped so much sea that it occupied two
of the artificers to bale and clear her of water. When the oar gave
way, we were about half a mile from the ship, but being fortunately
to windward, we got into the wake of the floating-light, at about 250
fathoms astern, just as the Landing-master’s boat reached the vessel.
He immediately streamed or floated a life-buoy astern, with a line
which was always in readiness, and by means of this useful implement,
the boat was towed alongside of the floating-light, where, from her
rolling motion, it required no small management to get safely on board,
as the men were much worn out with their exertions in pulling from the
rock. On the present occasion, the crews of both boats were completely
drenched with spray, and those who sat upon the bottom of the boats to
bale them, were sometimes pretty deep in the water, before it could be
cleared out. After getting on board, all hands were allowed an extra
dram, and having shifted, and got a warm and comfortable dinner, the
affair, it is believed, was little more thought of.
[Sidenote: Tender ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock.]
This was the first difficult or tedious passage which had been
experienced in landing at the Bell Rock; it was also the first
time that the writer had really felt the inconveniency of not
having a vessel entirely set apart for the purposes of a tender.
The floating-light, from the construction of her moorings, and the
service for which she was specially employed, could not be cast loose
or brought to the lea side of the rock in any case of emergency.
Neither could she be risked to ride at moorings near enough to the
rock, to place her in a more eligible situation for the purposes of
the work. When these circumstances were brought under the notice of
the Commissioners, it was ordered that a vessel should be provided,
exclusively as a tender for the operations of the rock; and this was
accordingly done before the commencement of the works of another season.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: Depth of water in the site of the building in Neap-tides.]
The tides were now in that state which sailors term the dead of the
neap, and it was not expected that any part of the rock would be seen
above water to-day; at any rate, it was obvious, from the experience
of yesterday, that no work could be done upon it, and therefore the
artificers were not required to land. The wind was at west, with light
breezes, and fine clear weather; and as it was an object with the
writer to know the actual state of the Bell Rock at neap-tides, he got
one of the boats manned, and, being accompanied by the landing-master,
went to it at a quarter past 12. The parts of the rock that appeared
above water being very trifling, were covered by every wave, so that
no landing was made. Upon trying the depth of water with a boat-hook,
particularly on the sites of the Light-house and Beacon, on the
former, at low water, the depth was found to be three feet, and on
the central parts of the latter it was ascertained to be two feet
eight inches. Having made these remarks, the boat returned to the ship
at 2 P. M., and the weather being good, the artificers were found
amusing themselves with fishing. The Smeaton came from Arbroath this
afternoon, and made fast to her moorings, having brought letters and
newspapers, with parcels of clean linen, &c. for the workmen; who were
also made happy by the arrival of three of their comrades from the
work-yard, ashore. From these men they not only received all the news
of the work-yard, but seemed themselves to enjoy great pleasure in
communicating whatever they considered to be interesting with regard
to the rock. Some also got letters from their friends at a distance,
the postage of which, for the men afloat, was always free, so that they
corresponded the more readily.
[Sidenote: Friday, 28th.]
To-day the weather was not quite so agreeable as it had been yesterday,
the wind being south-east, and blowing what sailors term a fresh
breeze, by which we understand a force of wind that would be sufficient
to cause the sails of a fishing-boat to be reefed. At ½ past 1 P. M.,
the writer again went to the rock, accompanied by the landing-master,
when a depth of about four feet of water was found upon the site of the
Light-house, which may be considered a medium depth, as nearly as this
could be ascertained in its present unworked state, but there was some
surf upon the rock.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.]
[Sidenote: Some of the Artificers wish to go ashore.]
In the course of the night, the wind had shifted from SE. to SW., and
it blew very hard, being technically termed a _stiff gale_, or rather
too much wind for a fishing-boat. It was therefore considered unsafe
for the Smeaton to continue at her moorings, and the signal was made
for her to sail for Arbroath; she therefore got under way, but although
there was a packet of letters for the shore, and the artificers
had their memorandums in readiness, yet the floating-light rolled
so unmercifully, that it would have been at the imminent hazard of
staving or dashing a boat to pieces, had it been attempted to put one
out. This was a disappointment in one way, though it answered a good
purpose in another, as two of the three men, who had come last from the
work-yard, earnestly entreated that they might be allowed to return,
as they could no longer endure the rolling of the floating-light,
a request in which they were anxiously accompanied by one of the
masons, who had all along been much afflicted with sea-sickness. These
applications were necessarily refused; they then applied to have an
interview with the writer, when they urged the misery they were likely
to suffer on board, without their being able to do any work at the
rock. To the two strangers the difficulty and danger of putting out
a boat was stated, as rendering it impossible for them to leave the
ship; while the third person was reminded of his engagement to remain
afloat for one month. In this manner these two men were put off, with
the prospect of better weather in the course of a day or two. With
regard to the other, he had suffered so severely, that the writer would
have been happy to have had him ashore, and he was informed that if
his comrades would ask leave for him, it would be granted. This being
readily complied with, he was left at full liberty to return to the
work-yard. But, for the present, the Smeaton was obliged to pass at
a considerable distance, without being able to communicate with the
floating-light.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.]
[Sidenote: Land upon the Rock after five days absence.]
The wind was N.NE. this morning, in light airs, and the weather was
clear. This being Sunday, the usual ceremony was observed at 12 noon,
when the writer read prayers on the quarter-deck. The ensuing set
of spring-tides were now coming to hand, and, at 3 P. M., all the
artificers embarked for the rock, excepting the four men who had
declined it last Sunday. Their places, however, were willingly taken
by the three men who came last from the shore, who were happy to get
relief from the disagreeable motion of the floating-light upon any
terms. The boats reached the rock at half-past 3; but being rather
early in the tide, the men rested on their oars till 4 o’clock, and
then landed on the different spots as they dried, where they remained
till the tide ebbed sufficiently to allow them to commence work. This
was the first time the artificers had landed on the rock for five days,
owing to the state of the weather and tides, and it was not a little
flattering, on this occasion, to see with what eagerness the workmen
leaped upon it. Those who were not troubled with sea-sickness, felt
a degree of languor on board from which their working hours formed
rather a relaxation, while the sickly (by far the greater number)
felt immediate relief upon setting their foot upon _terra firma_,
even in its most circumscribed boundary. While the water was going
off the rock, the workmen were all busily employed in picking dulse,
the _Fucus palmatus_ of botanists, and indeed any other of the marine
plants which happened to lie within their reach. Those who were the
greatest sufferers from sea-sickness always ate the most greedily upon
these occasions. Such incidental circumstances tended greatly to keep
up the desire for landing at the rock, and seemed, in some measure, to
compensate for the labour of rowing to and from it.
[Sidenote: Method of fixing the stanchions in the rock.]
The operation of boring the bat-holes being in great forwardness, the
men were now chiefly employed in chiselling or cutting out the piece
of rock which remained between each pair of jumper-holes, forming a
ridge of about two inches in thickness. When this was cleared away, the
bat-hole was of the proper form, and, as before noticed, it measured
about seven inches in length, two inches in breadth, and eighteen
inches in depth, an excavation which, from its dimensions, must readily
appear to have been attended with much difficulty. The holes, though
bored with the same size of chisels, as nearly as might be, were
not precisely of the same size; but this was not essential, as the
stanchion, when wedged in its place, completely filled the aperture.
This operation of chiselling out the middle piece, and widening the
hole in the form of a _dove-tail_, was a much more intricate and
tedious operation than boring perpendicularly with the jumper. At that
process three men worked with great celerity, whereas two only could be
employed in cutting out the divisions and widening the holes.
The site of the building having already been carefully traced out with
the pick-axe, the artificers, this day, commenced the excavation of the
rock, for the foundation or first course of the light-house. Four men
only were employed at this work, while twelve continued at the site of
the Beacon-house, at which every possible opportunity was embraced,
till this essential part of the operations should be completed. After
having been two hours upon the rock this tide, the water began to rise
upon the smith’s forge and the site of the Beacon-house, and at ¼
past 6 o’clock P. M. the artificers left the rock.
[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.]
[Sidenote: Longest day’s work hitherto had on the Bell Rock.]
The winds varied to-day from N.NE. to S. Though it blew pretty fresh,
it was not accompanied with any swell in the sea, and the weather upon
the whole was very pleasant. At half-past 3 in the morning, the writer
was called by the landing-master, to consult about the state of the
weather, and the practicability of landing upon the rock. After some
hesitation, the result was to proceed: the signal bell for getting
the boats ready was rung at 4 A. M., when all hands took to their
respective boats, and at half-past 4 the work commenced at the rock:
it continued till half-past 7, allowing an excellent tide’s work of
three hours, when the artificers again returned to the floating-light,
and remained till the evening tide. At 4 P. M. they landed, but did
not begin to work till a quarter from 5 o’clock, when the water had
sufficiently left the rock. At a quarter past 7 it was overflowed, when
the boats returned to the ship, and the writer was not a little elated,
as the morning and evening tide had afforded no less than five and a
half hours work, being the greatest day’s work hitherto obtained on the
Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: September, Tuesday, 1st.]
The weather was extremely pleasant throughout these twenty-four
hours, though the wind veered and shifted about from N.W. to W.SW.
At 4 o’clock this morning the bell made rather an unwelcome call,
but all hands readily turned out. As before mentioned, when the work
commenced at these early hours, a dram and a biscuit were served out
to the artificers; and the writer, upon these occasions, found a cup
of coffee very salutary. Having landed at a quarter from 5, the work
was continued for three and a half hours, four men, as before noticed,
being employed on the site of the Light-house, and twelve at the
Beacon-house. The water overflowed the rock at a quarter past 7, when
the boats returned to the floating-light.
[Sidenote: Smeaton brings off the experimental cargo of stone.]
The Smeaton had arrived from Arbroath in the course of the last night,
and made fast to her moorings at the eastern buoy, which was nearest
to the rock, as will be seen from Plate V. Agreeably to appointment,
she had brought off six blocks of granite, for the purpose of making an
experiment regarding the landing of the stones on the rock. She also
had in tow the praam, or decked boat, brought from Leith astern of the
Pharos, of which mention has already been made. This boat, in smooth
water, could carry about six or seven tons upon deck.
[Sidenote: Various suggestions about landing the stones.]
The writer had looked forward to the trial of landing weighty materials
upon the rock, as a matter which was to determine an important point
in the operations of the Bell Rock light-house, and which could hardly
be resolved by any other means than actual trial. This part of the
operation had always been a matter of the greatest uncertainty with
those conversant in such matters, and it became essential to determine
the point at this period, by actual trial, before proceeding to the
preparation of the craft and apparatus requisite for the works of next
season, which it would not have been safe or prudent to rest upon
doubtful hypothesis. In speculating upon this point, some had suggested
that each particular stone should be floated to the rock, with a
cork-buoy attached to it, while others would convert the float into an
air-tank for this purpose; a third proposed to sail over the rock at
high water, in a vessel of a flat construction, and drop the stones
one after another, while under way, or at anchor on the rock. Others
took up a still more extraordinary view of the case, and proposed to
build so much of the Light-house ashore, in a kind of coffer-dam or
vessel, as would raise the building to the level of the highest tide,
and having previously prepared the rock for its reception, they would
scuttle the vessel, and settle this ponderous mass, weighing perhaps
1000 tons, at once upon the rock. But it were endless to follow the
various conceptions, even of men of experience, upon subjects of this
kind. Though some of these propositions were ingeniously conceived, yet
they could not be carried into effect in such a situation as the Bell
Rock. Taking into view the uncertain state of the weather, the brittle
nature of stone, when worked to a delicate edge and formed into angular
points,--and, above all, considering the disadvantages that would
attend the loss, even of a single stone, by the unavoidable delay it
would occasion to the work, which might even in some instances hazard
a great part of the building,--the writer judged it safest to keep the
vessels that were to bring the stones from the workyard at moorings,
laid down at a convenient distance from the rock, so as to enable them
to clear it, in case of drifting. He also determined, as the safest
method, that their cargoes should be unloaded at these moorings, laid
on decked praam-boats, and towed to the rock by the landing-master’s
crew, at low water, when the artificers were at work, and ready to lay
and secure the stones in their places on the building. To put this to
the test of actual experiment, the trial praam-boat had been built, and
the six rough blocks of stone were brought to the rock.
[Sidenote: Experiment of landing six blocks of Granite.]
The middle part of this day was occupied by the writer on board of the
Smeaton, at her moorings, where he carefully attended to the process
of bringing the praam alongside, fixing her head and stern-ropes, and
stationing the seamen at their respective posts, for the purpose of
landing this small, but, in his view, important cargo. The mode by
which the stones were taken out of the Smeaton’s hold, and lowered on
the praam’s deck, will be understood from Plate XI. This was done by
means of a gaff-boom, which traversed upon the Smeaton’s mast, with
the necessary tackles for guying it. An essential part of this tackle
was a _travelling-crance_, or ring of iron, by which the stone might
be lifted either at the extremities or at the central parts of the
boom, as best suited its position in the ship’s hold, or its intended
place on the praam’s deck. The length of this gaff-boom was thirteen
feet, being sufficient for lowering the stone upon the praam. Another
part of this apparatus, for lifting the stone, was a _winch_, fixed
before the Smeaton’s mast, consisting of a wheel two feet in diameter,
worked by a pinion. The stone being raised from the vessel’s hold,
was laid on her deck, in order to shift the crance tackle to the
extremity of the gaff-boom. The chief charge of the stone was then
taken by the landing-master, till it was laid on the praam’s deck,
landed on the rock, and ultimately delivered over to the foreman
builder. In the act of working this apparatus, one man was placed at
each of the guy-tackles, who also assisted at the purchase-tackle for
raising the stone; and one of the ablest and most active of the crew
was appointed to hold on the end of the tackle-fall or purchase, which
often required all his strength, and his utmost agility in letting go,
for the purpose of lowering the stone at the instant when the word
“Lower” was heard. Much depended upon the promptitude with which this
part of the operation was performed, in a rolling sea, as our nautical
readers will readily understand. For this purpose, the man who held
the end of the tackle placed himself before the mast in a sitting, but
more frequently in a lying posture, with his feet stretched under the
winch, and abutting against the mast, as, by this means, he was enabled
to exert his greatest strength. The signal being given by the men in
the hold, that the Lewis-bat was fixed into the stone, and the tackle
hooked, every man took his post. If the stone was very weighty, the two
men who were to receive it on board of the praam, assisted in working
the purchase, till the stone was got out of the hold, to be laid upon
deck, when the word “Lower” was given, in an audible and stern tone
of voice. After the _traveller_ was shifted upon the gaff boom, the
praam-men returned to their post, and the stone was again lifted to a
sufficient height, to clear the vessel’s gunwale, when great attention
became necessary in working the guy-tackles, till the stone was brought
over the praam’s deck, and the watchword “Lower” given, if possible,
with greater force than before. The tackles were then unhooked, and in
this manner the operation proceeded until the stones were got on board
of the praam-boat.