_Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast._
_The_ Demi-Gods _with Bodies large and sound,_
_Commended then the Product of the Ground._
_Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust_,
_Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_
_Be their vile Names in Execration held,_
_Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_
_Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since,_
_With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence._
_Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly,_
_Which Death for our Destruction does supply._
_In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_
_Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure.
As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek:
aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd
Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the
Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_,
[95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _Imperial
Constitutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of these
Tracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating
the _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and by
our Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Spawn of Pagan
_Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood
has been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Water
of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it
only to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that
so strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _Ceremonial
Account_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_,
to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Blood
forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems
to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among
_Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so
many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious
Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats.
As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty
excepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians,
the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and
Obstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty God_ were not enough,
it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ of
the _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysterious
Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_,
&c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_
being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted the
eating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That God might
distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis
likewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the
_Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was
mention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, which
was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted
Strangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandal
of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as
it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so
severely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ and
Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted
(which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be
more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does
not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted
Drops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juice
and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) but
to those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, and
in Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations
and _Apician_ Tables.
But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verba
facere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of
preaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: And
therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet,
we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellæus_, who
has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S.
Chrysostom_, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_,
_Dionysius Carthusianus_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of
_Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_,
_Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. amongst the _Protestants_; and _instar
omnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, by
the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions,
_Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_
from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning
it; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather for
Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am
inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraôentai], and other
devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course
of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taught
much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom,
_Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ our
Lord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. and with several of the devout Sex, the
famous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to name
the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and
_Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying
it; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuously
his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the
eating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake;
but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancient
Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I
think he's in the right.
But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has often
been objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, may
since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally
become _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and
transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is
begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are
not agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, where
equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _Ordo
Foliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongst
other Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone,
to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go
through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether
they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought
up with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_;
and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by
their Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of
_Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think
it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge
(taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintain
Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, we
have the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks,
_ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victu
usum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable
Speculation, That since _all Flesh is Grass_ (not in a _Figurative_,
but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_,
and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on
Grass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _Incarnate
Herb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself.
We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_
the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the
_Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we
have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other
Circumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting
them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations
and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency)
so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking of
Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising
themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above
what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that
they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour,
Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots and
Machinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the
same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothrêskeia], or
thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This being
so, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and
_Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious
Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats
(which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and
[103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, and
unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution?
and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilst
they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they
pretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build their
warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of
Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an
extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where there
is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ where
there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the
Emperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _Constantine
Copronymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave
their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who
seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are
clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom)
and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their
own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not;
Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it
so far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they know
not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often
consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken
notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful
Remarks abroad.
'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life,
plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than
from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches
Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative,
unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit,
as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending
their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and
thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious
_Solitaries_, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries and
Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no
such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and
making, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_
for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their
_Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these
indeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought for
abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring
in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their
rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace
of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent,
and profitable Conversation.
And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_
has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longævity_
of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and
innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no
less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr.
_Ray_.
'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal
Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any
Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all
without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever
contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth
out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more
innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with
all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly
Man by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor is
he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and
crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to
gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor
do we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permitted
him, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c._
To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our
Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of
Nature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; such
fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to
temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body,
such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to
court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our
natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and
delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and
revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had
almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens
present us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd with
Gore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_,
purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there
Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew.
Survey we their _Bills of Fare_, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by
_Athenæus_, drest with all the Garnish of _Nicander_ and other _Grecian_
Wits: What has the _Roman Grand Sallet_ worth the naming? _Parat
Convivium_, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told,
----[107]_Varias, quas habet hortus opes?_
How richly the Garden's stor'd:
_In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum,
Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c._
* * * * *
A Goodly Sallet!
_Lettuce_, _Leeks_, _Mint_, _Rocket_, _Colewort-Tops_, with _Oyl_ and
_Eggs_, and such an _Hotch-Pot_ following (as the Cook in _Plautus_
would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age of
ours, by the Variety of so many rare _Edules_ unknown to the Ancients,
that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, let
the _Sallet_ drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by _Jacobus
Catsius_ (describ'd by the Poet [108]_Barlæus_) shew; not at all yet
out-doing what we every Day almost find at our _Lord Mayor's Table_, and
other great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookery
being capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wanting
of old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]_Nicomedes_
a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a _Pilchard_ (a Fish
he exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in its
Shape, and drest with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Pepper_, that so deceiv'd, and
yet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he had
ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious _Gardiner_
may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth.
Vitellius _his Table, to which every Day_
_All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay,_
_Could nothing more delicious afford_
_Than Nature's Liberality._
_Help'd with a little Art and Industry,_
_Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board,_
_The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse,_
_For which the Grape or Melon she would lose._
_Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air._
_Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;_
_Yet still the_ Sallet, _and the_ Fruit _we see_
_Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury_.
So the Sweet [110]_Poet_, whom I can never part with for his Love to
this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me.
Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and
bountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World, more
with _Plants_ and _Vegetables_ than with any other Provision whatsoever;
and the Variety not only equal, but by far exceeding the Pleasure
and Delight of Taste (above all the Art of the _Kitchen_, than ever
[111]_Apicius_ knew) seems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her
living Inhabitants (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and most
useful, to the same _Hospitable_ and Common-Board, which first she
furnish'd with _Plants_ and _Fruit_, as to their natural and genuine
Pasture; nay, and of the most wild, and savage too _ab origine_: As in
_Paradise_, where, as the _Evangelical_ [112]Prophet adumbrating the
future Glory of the _Catholick Church_, (of which that happy _Garden_
was the _Antitype_) the _Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious Lion,
should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox_. But after all, _latet
anguis in herba_, there's a _Snake_ in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess in
our most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Garden
furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and
excellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-running
the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplant
its Luxury to its new Mistriss, _Rome_. Those whom heretofore [113]two
Acres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; had
afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first
Territories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]_Forests_ and _Parks_,
_Warrens_ and _Fish-Ponds_, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables,
so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, and
to shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; they
chang'd those frugal and _inemptas Dapes_ of their Ancestors, to that
Height and Profusion; that we read of [115]_Edicts_ and _Sumptuary
Laws_, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of _Sallets_. But
so it was not when the _Pease-Field_ spread a Table for the Conquerors
of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated _Vomere laureato,
& triumphali aratore_: The greatest Princes took the _Spade_ and the
_Plough-Staff_ in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest
[116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from
_Plants_ and _Sallet-Herbs_; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch of
ingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook
(_Heu quam prodiga ventris_!) that, as _Pliny_ tells us (_non sine
pudore_, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a _Thistle_
to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]_Ass_ would not touch,
for fear of pricking his Lips.
Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies; first, the
_Persian_, then the _Grecian_, and afterwards _Rome_ her self: By what
Steps, see elegantly describ'd in Old [118]_Gratius_ the _Faliscian_,
deploring his own Age compar'd with the former:
_O quantum, & quoties decoris frustrata paterni!_
_At qualis nostris, quam simplex mensa Camillis!_
_Qui tibi cultus erat post tot, serrane, triumphos?_
_Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutisq; indole priscæ,_
_Imposuere orbi Romam caput_:----
Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own,
How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown!
But our _Camilli_ did but plainly fare,
No Port did oft triumphant _Serran_ bear:
Therefore such Hardship, and their Heart so great
Gave _Rome_ to be the World's Imperial Seat.
But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their Plenty,
spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches; so
never did they taste the Delicaces, and true Satisfaction of a sober
Repast, and the infinite Conveniences of what a well-stor'd _Garden_
affords; so elegantly describ'd by the [119]_Naturalist_, as costing
neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare,
_Res expedita & parata semper_: All was so near at hand, readily drest,
and of so easie Digestion; as neither to offend the Brain, or dull the
Senses; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn, a little Bread suffic'd.
In all Events,
_Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde_
_Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis_.
Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy,
What Nature adds besides is Luxury.
They could then make an honest Meal, and dine upon a _Sallet_ without
so much as a Grain, of _Exotic Spice_; And the _Potagere_ was in such
Reputation, that she who neglected her _Kitchen-Garden_ (for that was
still the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a tolerable Hus-wife:
_Si vespertinus subitò te oppresserit hospes_, she was never surpriz'd,
had all (as we said) at hand, and could in a Trice set forth an handsome
_Sallet_: And if this was Happiness, _Convictus facilis sine arte mensa_
(as the _Poet_ reckons) it was here in Perfection. In a Word, so
universal was the _Sallet_, that the [120]Un-bloody Shambles (as _Pliny_
calls them) yielded the [121]_Roman_ State a more considerable Custom
(when there was little more than honest _Cabbage_ and _Worts_) than
almost any thing bessides brought to Market.
They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did,
gorging themselves with _Flesh_ and _Fish_, so as hardly able to rise,
without reeking and reeling from Table.
[122]----_Vides ut pallidus omnis_
_Coena desurgat dubia? quin corpus onustum_
_Hesternis vitiis, animum quoque prægravat unà,_
_Atque affigit humo divinæ particulam auræ_.
See but how pale they look, how wretchedly,
With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be!
Nor Body only suff'ring, but the Mind,
That nobler Part, dull'd and depress'd we find.
Drowsie and unapt for Business, and other nobler Parts of Life.
Time was before Men in those golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk and
lively.
----_Ubi dicto citius curata sopori_
_Membra dedit, Vegetus præscripta ad munera surgit_.
With shorter, but much sweeter Sleep content,
Vigorous and fresh, about their Business went.
And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their
Sleep _molli sub arbore_, sound, sweet, and kindly: That excellent
Emperour _Tacitus_ being us'd to say of _Lettuce_, that he did _somnum
se mercari_ when he eat of them, and call'd it a sumptuous Feast, with
a _Sallet_ and a single _Pullet_, which was usually all the Flesh-Meat
that sober Prince eat of; whilst _Maximinus_ (a profess'd Enemy to
_Sallet_) is reported to have scarce been satisfied, with sixty Pounds
of Flesh, and Drink proportionable.
There was then also less expensive Grandure, but far more true State;
when _Consuls_, great Statesmen (and such as atchiev'd the most renown'd
Actions) sup'd in their _Gardens_; not under costly, gilded, and inlaid
Roofs, but the spreading _Platan_; and drank of the Chrystal Brook, and
by Temperance, and healthy Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of _Sallets_,
_Ah, quanta innocentiore victu_! with what Content and Satisfaction!
Nor, as we said, wanted there Variety; for so in the most blissful
Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the first _Empress_ of the
World _Regal's_ her _Celestial_ Guest: