_True Appetite, ---- and brings_
_Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields_
_----Fruit of all kinds, in Coat_
_Rough, or smooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell_.
_Heaps with unsparing Hand: For Drink the Grape_
_She crushes, inoffensive Moust, and Meaches_
_From many a Berry, and from sweet Kernel prest,_
_She temper'd dulcid Creams_.----
Then for the Board.
----_Rais'd of a grassy Turf_
_The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round;_
_And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side,_
_All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence,_
_Deserving Paradise_!
Thus, the _Hortulan_ Provision of the [124]_Golden Age_ fitted all
_Places_, _Times_ and _Persons_; and when Man is restor'd to that State
again, it will be as it was in the Beginning.
But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, that
whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the _Topics of
Panegyric_, we would in Favour of the _Sallet_, drest with all its Pomp
and Advantage turn Mankind to _Grass_ again; which were ungratefully
to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort:
But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the _Luxury_
of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of
Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, and
a [125]Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and
within a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts of
Life. And thus of old,
_Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, _&a._
He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated
_Garden_, with other moderate Circumstances, had [126]_Hæredium_. All
that a modest Man could well desire. Then,
[127]_Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed,_
_A little Garden, little Field does feed._
_The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird;_
_The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd:_
_The specious Evils of an anxious Life,_
_He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife_.
O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos!
_FINIS_
* * * * *
_APPENDIX_
Tho' _it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume
and Discourse concerning_ Crude Sallets, _with any of the following
Receipts: Yet having since received them from an_ Experienc'd Housewife;
_and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improve
our_ Acetaria, _we have allow'd them Place as an_ Appendant _Variety
upon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former
Treatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides divers
Learned_ Physicians, _and such as have_ ex professo _written_ de Re
Cibaria) _we have the Examples of many other_ [128]Noble _and_
Illustrious _Persons both among the_ Ancient _and_ Modern.
1. Artichoak. _Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin
Slices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley,
till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with other
fresh melted Butter_.
_How a_ Poiverade _is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter,
See_ Acetaria. p. 5, 6.
Ashen-keys. _See_ Pickle.
Asparagus. _See_ Pickle.
Beets. \
Broom. |
Buds. | _See_ Pickle.
Capers. /
Carrot. _See_ Pudding.
Champignon. _See_ Mushroom.
2. Chessnut. _Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell,
and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a
Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine_.
Collyflower. \
Cucumber. |
Elder flowers. | _See_ Pickle.
Flowers. |
Gilly-flowers. /
Herbs. _See_ Pudding _and_ Tart.
Limon. _See_ Pickle.
3. Mushroom. _Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons_, growing _upon
sweet Pasture_ _Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip off
the upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; then
slice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: Then
Boil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them a
quarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth,
pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boiling
a full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another clean
Water, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Then
being taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Broth
as will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as
many Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Persly
bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an_ Anchovy, _Oysters raw,
or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew_. _See_
Acetar. p. 26.
Another.
_Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, to
preserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; and
whilst on the Fire, cast in the_ Mushrooms, _letting them boil till they
become tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Water
being drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine_ _and Butter, a
small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before,
with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg_, Anchovies (_one is sufficient_) _Oysters_,
&c. _a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, some
Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some_
Rocombo _Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with
Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper_.
_In_ France _some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) cast
them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onion
they stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor at
all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a little
Butter, and so eat them_.
_In_ Poiverade.
_The large Mushrooms well cleansed_, &c. _being cut into quarters and
strewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eaten
with fresh Butter_.
_In_ Powder.
_Being fresh gathered, cleans'd_, &c. _and cut in Pieces, stew them
in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Then
putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after the
Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reserve
them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest,
see_ Pickle.
4. Mustard. _Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Water
two or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out the
sound_ (_which will sink to the Bottom_) _rub it very dry in warm course
Cloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then
stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slice
some Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a small
Lump of hard Sugar_ (_which some leave out_) _to temper the Flower with,
being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with
an Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is
the more cleanly: But this_ Receit _is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar,
Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some of
this_ Mustard _adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon,
you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish_.
_Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to
keep fresh a competent while. What part of it does not pass the_ Sarse,
_may be beaten again; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed
Glass, and make fresh Mustard when you please_. _See_ Acetaria, p. 38,
67.
Nasturtium. _Vide_ Pickle.
Orange. _See_ Limon _in Pickle_.
5. Parsnip. _Take the large Roots, boil them, and strip the Skin: Then
slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and fry them in
fresh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other sweet Butter
melted. Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. Thus you may accomodate
other Roots_.
_There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very tender
with a little fresh Cream; and being heated again, put to it some
Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dish it upon Sippets;
sometimes a few_ Corinths _are added_.
Peny-royal. _See_ Pudding.
Pickles.
6. _Pickl'd_
Artichoaks. _See_ Acetaria, p. 5.
7. Ashen-keys. _Gather them young, and boil them in three or four Waters
to extract the Bitterness; and when they feel tender, prepare a Syrup of
sharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil them on
a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to be
potted so soon as cold_.
8. Asparagus. _Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine
Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and so let them remain for six
Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and scum it
carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when 'tis cold,
pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year_.
9. Beans. _Take such as are fresh, young, and approaching their full
Growth. Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able
to bear an Egg. Cover them very close, and so will they be preserved
twelve Months: But a Month before you use them, take out what Quantity
you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year (for so long
the second Pickle will keep them sound) and boil them in a Skillet of
fresh Water, till they begin to look green, as they soon will do. Then
placing them one by one, (to drain upon a clean course Napkin) range
them Row by Row in a_ Jarr, _and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice
you please; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the
Pickle. Thus you may preserve French-Beans_, Harico's, &c. _the whole
Year about_.
10. Broom-Buds _and_ Pods. _Make a strong Pickle, as above; stir it very
well, till the Salt be quite dissolved, clearing off the Dregs and Scum.
The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and having rubbed the Buds dry pot
them up in a Pickle-Glass, which should be frequently shaken, till they
sink under it, and keep it well stopt and covered_.
_Thus may you-pickle any other_ Buds. _Or as follows:_
11. _Of_ Elder. _Take the largest_ Buds, _and boil them in a Skillet
with Salt and Water, sufficient only to scald them; and so (being taken
off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; and then pot them with
Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to cleanse it_.
12. Collyflowers. _Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with some of
the Stalk, and worst of the Flower, boil it in a part of the Liquor till
pretty strong: Then being taken off, strain it; and when settled, clear
it from the Bottom. Then with_ Dill, _Gross Pepper, a pretty Quantity of
Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp, and pour all
upon the_ Collyflower; _and so as to keep them from touching one
another; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them_.
Cornelians _are pickled like_ Olives.
13. Cowslips. _Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow about one
Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which boil to a
Syrup, and cover it scalding-hot. Thus you may pickle_ Clove-gillyflowers,
Elder, _and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, make a very agreeable
Salletine_.
14. Cucumbers. _Take the_ Gorkems, _or smaller_ Cucumbers; _put them
into_ Rape-Vinegar, _and boyl, and cover them so close, as none of the
Vapour may issue forth; and also let them stand till the next day: Then
boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger,
white Pepper, and a little Salt, (according to discretion) straining the
former Liquor from the_ Cucumbers; _and so place them in a Jarr, or wide
mouthed Glass, laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and
covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle, keep all close, and
repeat it daily, till you find them sufficiently green_.
_In the same sort_ Cucumbers _of the largest size, being peel'd and cut
into thin Slices, are very delicate_.
Another.
_Wiping them clean, put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt,
to soak two or three Hours or longer, if you see Cause: Then range
them in the_ Jarr _or_ Barrellet _with Herbs and Spice as usual; and
cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar, and one of
White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well closed. A Fortnight after scald
the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: Thus they will keep longer,
and from being so soon sharp, eat crimp and well tasted, tho' not
altogether so green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hysop, Costmary_, &c.
_and as some do, strow on them a little Powder of_ Roch-Allom, _which
makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after_.
Mango _of_ Cucumbers.
_Take the biggest_ Cucumbers _(and most of the_ Mango _size) that look
green: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supply
their Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some_ Roccombo _Seeds.
Then put them into an Earthen Glazed_ Jarr, _or wide-mouth'd Glass, with
as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar
with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as
will make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the_ Cucumbers,
_covering them close till the next Day. Then put them with a little
Dill, and Pickle into a large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two,
return them into the Vessel again: And when all is cold, add a good
Spoonful of the best_ Mustard, _keeping it from the Air, and so have you
an excellent_ Mango. _When you have occasion to take any out, make use
of a Spoon, and not your Fingers_.
Elder. _See_ Buds.
Flowers. _See_ Cowslips, _and for other_ Flowers.
15. Limon. _Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and shift them in
several Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and wipe them
dry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little White-Wine
Vinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar, carefully
scum'd. When all is cold, pour it on the peel'd Rind, and cover it all
close in a convenient Glass Jarr. Some make a Syrup of Vinegar,
White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot_.
16. Melon. _The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as_
Cucumber, _make an excellent Sallet_.
17. Mushrom. _Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar; as much of
White-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten together: Let
the Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half; then taken off, and
being cold, pour the Liquour on the_ Mushroms; _but leave out the boiled
Spice, and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole, the Nutmeg only slit
in Quarters, with some Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you please a
whole raw Onion, which take out again when it begins to perish_.
Another.
_The_ Mushroms _peel'd_, &c. _throw them into Water, and then into
a Sauce-Pan, with some long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a quarter'd Nutmeg,
with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little Salt. Let them
all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then take out
and cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them in some
White-Wine; which (being cold) cast upon the_ Mushroms, _and fill up
the Pot with the best White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, and an Handful of
Salt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long keeping, pour
Sallet-Oil over all, tho' they will be preserved a Year without it_.
_They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water, with some Milk, and laying
them in the Colender to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, cast them into
the Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg, Ginger
bruised, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the Liquor on
them cold without boiling_.
18. Nasturtium Indicum. _Gather the Buds before they open to flower; lay
them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into an Earthen
Glazed Vessel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover it with a Board.
Thus letting it stand for eight or ten Days: Then being taken out, and
gently press'd, cast them into fresh Vinegar, and let them so remain as
long as before. Repeat this a third time, and Barrel them up with
Vinegar and a little Salt_.
Orange. _See_ Limon.
20. Potato. _The small green Fruit (when about the size of the Wild
Cherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root being
roasted under the Embers, or otherwise, open'd with a Knife, the Pulp
is butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, and
is seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugar
together in the Skin, which has a pleasant Crimpness. They are also
stew'd and bak'd in Pyes_, &c.
21. Purselan. _Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them with
Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight to
imbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as much
White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and close the Lid with
Paste to keep in the Steam: Then set them on the Fire for three or four
Hours, often shaking and stirring them: Then open the Cover, and turn
and remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to the Top, and boil
them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all is cold, pot
them with fresh White-Wine Vinegar, and so you may preserve them the
whole Year round_.
22. Radish. _The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd, are a pretty
Sallet_.
23. Sampier. _Let it be gathered about_ Michaelmas _(or the Spring) and
put two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a clean
Tin'd Brass Pot, with three parts of strong White-Wine Vinegar, and one
part of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the_ Sampier, _keeping
the Vapour from issuing out, by pasting down the Pot-lid, and so hang
it over the Fire for half an Hour only. Being taken off, let it remain
covered till it be cold; and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars,
with the Liquor, and some fresh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus it
will keep very green. If you be near the Sea, that Water will supply the
place of Brine. This is the_ Dover _Receit_.
24. Walnuts. _Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, but
not before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water as
will more than cover them. Then set them on the Fire, and when the water
boils, and grows black, pour it off, and supply it with fresh, boiling
it as before, and continuing to shift it till it become clear, and the_
Nuts _pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean Spring Water for
two Days, changing it as before with fresh, two or three times within
this space: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a clean course Cloth,
and put them up in a Glass Jar, with a few Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves,
Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; strowing them under every Layer of Nuts,
till the Vessel be three quarters full; and lastly, replenishing it with
the best Vinegar, keep it well covered; and so they will be fit to spend
within three Months_.
To make a _Mango_ with them.
_The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar with
some Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt_, &c. _and then a Bed of Nuts;
and so_ stratum _upon_ stratum, _as above, adding to the Spice some_
Roccombo-Seeds; _and filling the rest of the Jar with the best
White-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the best Mustard; and to let them
remain close covered, during two or three Months time: And thus have you
a more agreeable_ Mango _than what is brought us from abroad; which you
may use in any Sauce, and is of it self a rich Condiment_.
_Thus far_ Pickles.
25. Potage Maigre. _Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or three
Onions stuck with some Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon Peel, Salt,
whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in a fine
Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then having
Spinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few small Tops of
Cives, wash'd and pick'd clean, shred them well, and cast them into the
Liquor, with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd, with a Bunch
of sweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a_ French Roll; _and so suffer it
to boil during three Hours; and then dish it with another small_ French
Roll, _and Slices about the Dish: Some cut Bread in slices, and frying
them brown (being dried) put them into the Pottage just as it is going
to be eaten_.
_The same Herbs, clean wash'd, broken and pulled asunder only, being put
in a close cover'd Pipkin, without any other Water or Liquor, will stew
in their own Juice and Moisture. Some add an whole Onion, which after a
while should be taken out, remembring to season it with Salt and Spice,
and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter_.
26. Pudding _of_ Carrot. _Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread,
and grate of half as much of the rest as there is of the Root, which
must also be grated: Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk,
half a Pound of fresh Butter, six new laid Eggs (taking out three of the
Whites) mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter: Then put
in the grated Bread and Carrot, with near half a Pound of Sugar; and a
little Salt; some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into a
convenient Dish or Pan, butter'd, to keep the Ingredients from sticking
and burning; set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and so have you
a Composition for any_ Root-Pudding.
27. Penny-royal. _The Cream, Eggs, Spice_, &c. _as above, but not so
much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigold
flower_, &c. _very well shred, and mingle with the Cream, Eggs_, &c.
_four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of Cream, and almost a Pound
of Beef-Suet chopt very small, the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, and
stirring all well together, put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast.
It will be boil'd within an Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the_
Carrot-Pudding. _The sauce is for both, a little Rose-water, less
Vinegar, with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with the
Sugar Caster_.
_Of this Plant discreetly dried, is made a most wholsom and excellent
Tea_.
28. _Of_ Spinage. _Take a sufficient Quantity of_ Spinach, _stamp and
strain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the Yolk of as many Eggs
as in the former Composition of the_ Carrot-Pudding; _some Marrow shred
small, Nutmeg, Sugar, some Corinths, (if you please) a few Carroways,
Rose, or Orange-flower Water (as you best like) to make it grateful.
Mingle all with a little boiled Cream; and set the Dish or Pan in the
Oven, with a Garnish of Puff-Paste. It will require but very moderate
Baking. Thus have you Receits for_ Herb Puddings.
29. Skirret-Milk _Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulp
strained out, put into Cream or new Milk boiled, with three or four
Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice_, &c. _And thus is
composed any other Root-Milk_. _See_ Acetar. p. 42.
30. Tansie. _Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits, put
them into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve fresh Eggs, four of the
Whites cast out, strain the rest, and break them with two Spoonfuls of
Rose-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated Nutmeg: And when
ready for the Pan, put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach, Cleaver,
Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primrose tender Leaves,
(for of any of these you may take your choice) with a very small Sprig
of Tansie, and let it be fried so as to look green in the Dish, with a
Strew of Sugar and store of the Juice of Orange: some affect to have
it fryed a little brown and crisp_.
31. Tart _of_ Herbs. _An_ Herb-Tart _is made thus: Boil fresh Cream or
Milk, with a little grated Bread or_ Naples-Biscuit _(which is better)
to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete (or what
other Herb you please) being first par-boil'd and chop'd. Then add_
Macaron, _or Almonds beaten to a Paste, a little sweet Butter, the Yolk
of five Eggs, three of the Whites rejected. To these some add Corinths
plump'd in Milk, or boil'd therein, Sugar, Spice at Discretion, and
stirring it all together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan_.
32. Thistle. _Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the_
Milky-Thistle, _about_ May, _when they are young and tender: wash and
scrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little Salt, till they are
very soft, and so let them lie to drain. They are eaten with fresh
Butter melted not too thin, and is a delicate and wholsome Dish. Other
Stalks of the same kind may so be treated, as the_ Bur, _being tender
and disarmed of its Prickles_, &c.
33. Trufles, _and other_ Tubers, _and_ Boleti, _are roasted whole in
the_ Embers; _then slic'd and stew'd in strong Broth with Spice_, &c.
_as_ Mushroms _are. Vide_ Acetar. p. 28.